[Rhodes22-list] bilge/sole repair

Goodness spreadgoodnews at gmail.com
Tue May 21 09:05:59 EDT 2013


I am replacing my stringers with preasure treated 2x lumber and floor with composite (plastic) decking.  Hoping for 25 year lifespan!?



On May 20, 2013, at 3:23 PM, "Graham Stewart" <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:

> Great information regarding the sole. Thanks to you all.
> 
> Graham 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Michael D. Weisner
> Sent: May-20-13 2:47 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] bilge/sole repair
> 
> They each end over a stringer.  See attached diagram.
> 
> Mike
> s/v <-- NoName -->  ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Michael Hellyar
> Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 2:05 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] bilge/sole repair
> 
> Without the aid of your experience I configured the sole in exactly the same
> 4 pieces. How are you pieces supported ? 
> 
> Mike Hellyar
> sent from my iPad
> 
> On May 20, 2013, at 12:39 PM, "Michael D. Weisner" <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> I replaced the cabin sole in my '81 with the same as the original, 3/4"
>> plywood.  In those days, the floor was coated (top, bottom & SIDES) 
>> with resin since they used standard plywood so I did the same.  It was 
>> cut in 4 pieces, port, starboard, center board trunk and bilge access 
>> (center of cabin, just aft of mast) making it easier to handle.  The 
>> only reason that I had replaced it was due to rain water collected in 
>> the cabin during a summer season and the fear of mold.  It was still 
>> in good shape after many years of service.
>> 
>> I have yet to peek at my '91 cabin sole.
>> 
>> Mike
>> s/v <-- NoName -->  ('91)
>> Nissequogue River, NY
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Graham 
>> Stewart
>> Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 10:48 AM
>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] bilge/sole repair
>> 
>> Can anyone tell me what the thickness of the floor boards are in 
>> current boats? What material is used?
>> 
>> Mine are a retrofit done by a previous owner using 3/4" standard fir 
>> plywood. This is considerably thicker that what is used forward of the 
>> mast which looks like 1/2" marine ply. It doesn't flex but the span is 
>> much smaller. In going thinner I am not thinking of cost but rather 
>> weight. It seems that I am regularly removing the boards for one 
>> reason or another and managing a large piece of 3/4" plywood in the 
>> small space is a struggle for an old guy like me. But I don't want a 
>> spongy floor either so I am incline to go with whatever Stan is 
>> currently using given that he seems to be constantly refining everything.
>> 
>> Graham
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of 
>> R22RumRunner at aol.com
>> Sent: May-20-13 8:27 AM
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] bilge/sole repair
>> 
>> Gentlemen,
>> I've been thinking about going from a 3/4" floor board to a 1/2" 
>> board. I can tell you that a 1/2" board will flex and give your galley 
>> a spongy floor. The 3/4" board has no give and makes the R22 a solid 
>> craft. I would not go thinner just to save a few dollars. Just my opinion.
>> 
>> Rummy
>> 
>> 
>> In a message dated 5/19/2013 8:41:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
>> michaelhellyar at icloud.com writes:
>> 
>> Thanks  for the info.  Yes, I'm going to use 1/2. The span is so 
>> narrow. I will  post a photo of my mock up for comments before cutting 
>> the final pieces.
>> Mike Hellyar
>> sent from my iPad
>> 
>> On May 19, 2013, at 3:17  PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>> 
>>> Michael:
>>> 
>>> On my boat (1974) the floor boards are made of 3/4  ply and sit 
>>> directly
>> on
>>> the stringers and cross pieces. The boards are  screwed down to stay 
>>> in
>> place
>>> but have openings cut out in strategic  places where you might want 
>>> to get down in the bilge to service the  pump, sponge up water or 
>>> retrieve things that slip down between the  cracks. The plywood cut 
>>> out was then used to
>> make
>>> the hole cover by  bolting pieces of wood around the hole to make a 
>>> flange that the cover  piece just sits in.
>>> The stringers and cross pieces are all attached to  the hull with 
>>> epoxy
>> and
>>> fibreglass cloth. There is also a strip the  runs along the join 
>>> between
>> the
>>> hull and kick plate on the galley side  and the settee and hull on 
>>> the
>> other
>>> side. This serves as a place to  screw the floorboards down on the 
>>> outer edges. Newer designs might be  different.
>>> 
>>> None of this is original in my case except for  the forward section 
>>> in
>> front
>>> of the mast but it appears to me that it  was built to copy the 
>>> original construction. When I redo mine I think  I will see if I can 
>>> get away with floor boards that are thinner than  3/4" as these are 
>>> very heave and difficult to manoeuvre in a tight  space.
>>> 
>>> Graham Stewart
>>> 
>>> -----Original  Message-----
>>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Michael 
>>> Hellyar
>>> Sent: May-18-13 8:18 AM
>>> To:  rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] bilge/sole  repair
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Replacing cabin  sole. Should it be supported on the bilge frame pieces ?
>> If
>>> so how can  these pieces be removed or should we GFlex epoxy repair 
>>> over them.  Same question on lower bulkhead pieces. They don't appear
>> structural.
>>> What is best way to support new sole if not on the bilge frame. We
>> prefer
>>> not to tear up the bilge (expensive) but appreciate  recommendation.
>> Previous
>>> owner let this one sit out with water inside  obviously. But it is 
>>> IMF
>> rigged
>>> and most repair is for the sole and  bilge. Plan to paint hull/bilge
>> interior
>>> with bilge paint. 
>>> 
>>> view toward bulkhead
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>>> Mike Hellyar
>>> At Sandusky, Ohio
>>> sent from my iPad
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>> 
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