[Rhodes22-list] recommendations for mast electrical wiring routing
Michael D. Weisner
mweisner at ebsmed.com
Sun Nov 17 09:37:35 EST 2013
When I rebuilt my 1981 R22, I replaced the original headlight switch based
electrical system with a full panel and a battery cutout switch (see
attached photo w/insert link at bottom of message). A hole was cut in the
forward bulkhead with a jig saw and all wiring was done on the forward side
of the bulkhead. I originally intended to build a box to contain the wiring
but later decided that it was neat enough to be seen from the head and
v-berth and safe (12V). This also permitted easy access to the terminal
strips for future expansion. The panel that I used was very similar to the
SeaSense panel on Amazon
(http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keyword
s=Seasense-Switch-Panel-6-Gang) and the cutoff keyswitch was from Harbor
Freight.
Mike
s/v <-no name -> ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Gary Novotny
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2013 11:00 AM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] recommendations for mast electrical wiring
routing
Ric,
Sounds Like we are indeed at similar points in rewiring our boats. I also
thought that the above the galley original location might not be advisable.
I decided to mount my circuit panel on the port companion way bulkhead (not
sure of the proper terminology here). I used a Blue Sea Systems breaker
panel (http://www.bluesea.com/products/8068/DC_13_Position) along with their
dual battery management panel
(http://www.bluesea.com/products/8686/Dual_Battery_Bank_Management_Panel).
I also want to have two batteries and solar at some point. The breaker panel
is probably way overkill, but I like to have room to add circuits if
needed.
I wanted to mount the breaker panel in a wooden enclosure, but I knew it
would take me forever to build a decent looking wooden box. I bought a
wooden box on amazon to fit the panel in. The box proved to be a bit flimsy
for the panel once all the circuits were wired I in so I beefed it up by
epoxying aluminum supports on the inside and added heavier duty hinges. I
fabricated a box out of Celtec PVC plastic for the battery management panel.
I originally thought that this proved to be a bad idea, because while Celtec
is easy to work with, it's a soft material compared with starboard or
fiberglass. It's kind of easy to dent and may show wear over the long run. I
just learned that the real trick is to gelcoat the Celtec which provides a
very hard surface that looks just like solid fiberglass. See the attachment
for photo of breaker box and Battery panel mount. I may remove the battery
mgmt. panel box and gelcoat it.
I mounted three electrical blocks under the bulkhead, one large gauge Bus
bar for the DC grounding bus (similar to
http://www.bluesea.com/products/2303/Common_150A_BusBar_-_Four_1_4in-20_Stud
s), and two small terminal blocks for positive and negative circuit
connections (similar to
http://www.bluesea.com/products/2410/Terminal_Block_20A_-_10_Circuit). This
is all still a work in progress, so I still have a lot of wiring to do as
well as finish work. I know I'm going to have to cover up the Bus and
terminal blocks with some kind of protective panel. My current thinking is
to fabricate a hinged cover out of Celtec and then gelcoat it.
Anyway got to go for now.
Stay in touch
Gary
S/V not named yet
gjnovotny at comcast.net
772-971-5753
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Ric Stott
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 2:41 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] recommendations for mast electrical wiring
routing
Coincidentally - I'm doing exactly the same and I'm almost at the same
point.
I do have some of the original wiring, but not all and nothing works.
There was a fuse panel just inside the companionway - it was shot.
I bought a new 8 circuit breaker panel and built a mahogany plank for it
that fits just inside the bulkhead behind the centerboard line - I'll put a
clear plexi cover on it to keep the spray off it.
I thought about placing the breaker panel above the galley like present day
versions of the R22, but much of my sketchy wiring leads to the companionway
bulkhead and I thought extending wiring with splices not such a great idea.
I only have one battery and want to install another along with a solar
panel.
I also want to re-wire the motor so the electric start works.
Lets stay in touch and compare notes/photos.
Ric
s/v Dadventure
Hampton Bays NY
On Nov 13, 2013, at 2:10 PM, Gary Novotny wrote:
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I have a new to me Rhodes 22 (1978) that I'm currently rewiring among
> other things. This particular boat has no deck fittings for electrical
> connection of the mast circuits like steaming and anchor lights. I'm
> not sure how the previous owners provided power to these circuits as
> most of the wiring was gone when I bought the boat. I have replaced
> all the mast wiring and lights with LED versions and added a spreader
> light and a VHF antenna. I plan to add thru deck electrical connectors
> but I am curious how other Rhodes 22's are wired for mast circuits.
> Any suggestions.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> Gary Novotny
>
> Fort Pierce Florida.
>
>
>
> <mailto:gjnovotny at comcast.net> gjnovotny at comcast.net
>
>
>
> 772-971-5753
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
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