[Rhodes22-list] Painting update

Mon Sep 9 12:55:04 EDT 2013

Actually I might be the first yellow R22 as the original gelcoat was yellow
from 1976.

Graham 

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
R22RumRunner at aol.com
Sent: September-09-13 10:56 AM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Painting update

Good job. You will now have the second yellow R22.

Rummy

In a message dated 9/8/2013 4:42:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gstewart8 at cogeco.ca writes:

Somewhat  to my surprise, I have made more progress painting the deck and
transom of  Ariel than I expected so I feel compelled to share the progress
with those  who insist on posting pictures of their boats actually in the
water. Also I  hope to encourage those with older boats they want to
preserve but without  boat painting or spray painting experience to view the
project as not  requiring the complete leaving of one senses - although that
helps too.

I have been using the System Three waterborne epoxy  system. It is an
interesting paint with a number of advantages and  disadvantages. Most
important to me is that a novice do-it-yourself type  can actually spray
paint this stuff at home without killing himself and the  neighbours. Unlike
the other epoxy paints, this stuff is virtually  odourless and safe. 

It dies to touch very quickly - usually an hour -  and if recoated within 24
hours does not require sanding. So I was able to  apply 3 coats in a day. It
is best done on cool humid days which is not a  problem in Ontario right
now.
I think this paint will take more coats than  something like Perfection
would but the fact that you don't need to sand  between coats and its quick
dry time are important factors that compensate  for the additional coats
that will be needed. I currently have applied 3  coats of primer and three
coats of the finish. The deck is an off white and  the transom is the System
Three stock  yellow - which turned out,  amazingly,  to be an almost perfect
match for the rest of my boat that  was painted in some unknown epoxy paint
over
20
years ago and still looks  good. The transom was badly damaged when the
rudder popped of the gudgeon  while at anchor during a rough period. It
pounced around for several days  chewing up the gelcoat before I realized
what had happened. I included a  picture of the transom after it was
repaired but before it was  painted.

The transom picture gives a fairly realistic view of what the  paint looks
like when applied. Although it is considered to be a  "satin"  finish it
looks pretty glossy to me. Also, you can see the  texture in the paint
created by the base coat that goes on rough. More  sanding would have
removed more of the texture. In the case of the deck I  actually wanted to
preserve the textured look to reduce glare so I sanded  very little. I plan
to add an additional couple of coats of yellow to the  transom as the paint
looks good but does not hide very well. Fortunately  that will be a quick
job given the fast drying time. The off-white seems to  cover better but if
you use this paint be prepared to apply many  coats.

The deck centre are looks like the paint is peeling but in fact  that is
masking. In repairing the deck I applied cloth and epoxy to the  entire
non-skid area so I will need to apply non-skid in that area later -  much
later. I intend to use Kiwi Grip and it is best applied to the base  coat.

Because the paint dries so quickly very few bugs or other dust  and airborne
debris will become entrapped. It takes about a week for the  epoxy  to cure
but that doesn't stop you from doing other work on the  boat if you just
avoid scraping or abrading the finish. Even so, it is very  tough almost
immediately. I have actually had to sand fairly aggressively  to remove
imperfections just hours after the paint was applied so I am not  seeing the
need to be excessive gentle with it. Reportedly it has a very  hard finish
that will endure. I sure hope so as I have no intention of  doing this
again.

I had surprisingly few runs and that certainly isn't  a testament to my
skill. I am not sure why because the paint seems very  thin to me compared
to traditional paints - almost watery. Others have  complained about it
running.
I think the trick is to be content with  multiple very thin coats and
absolutely resist the urge to go back over  spots that were missed. When
runs do occur, wipe them up with a foam brush  right away and the paint
seems to fill in the brush marks quite  well.

The HVLP system I used cost me $35 on clearance but is available  on sale at
Rockler often for about $140. I got an extra length of hose and  jointed
then together with 3/4 plastic pipe and duct tape. Aside from the  obvious
advantage of a long hose for a big project like this, the hose also  lets
the air, which is heated by the turbine, to cool off before it reaches  the
gun.
It is surprising how warm the hose is at the turbine but at the  gun most of
the heat is gone. That turns out to be important as this paint  is very
sensitive to heat and dryness. That long hose plus the fact that  the
outside temperature was about 64 degrees and the air very humid - it  was
actually raining at times - seems to have made the job much easier.  From
what I have read, those who use the paint in hot dry climes can have  real
difficulty with it drying before it can run out.

On the whole I  am delighted with the paint. I have never used a spray gun
before and had  very cheap HVLP equipment. The fact that the job looks
reasonably good and  much better than I had expected is a miracle. It isn't
perfect but I think  it is much better than anything I could have done with
the roll and tip  method - especially on the deck with the irregular shapes
and difficulty  keeping a wet edge with traditional epoxy paints.

I must say that there  is a tremendous sense of relief when the painting is
done.

Graham
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