[Rhodes22-list] R22 installing portlights and hatches

Tue Sep 17 17:07:53 EDT 2013

Attached is a picture of my cabin top with the solar vent removed showing
the thickness at 1" including the liner and outer skin. Although painted,
you can see the plywood laminates.

Graham 

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Richard Beytagh
Sent: September-17-13 1:22 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] R22 installing portlights and hatches

The 84's do have plywood cores and yes, there was some rot around the
chainplate area. It seemed to be isolated so I scooped out as much of the
old wood as possible, and squirted a water proof foam filler. I then sealed
up the edges around the hatch opening exactly as you described.  All other
deck fittings have been reseated with 4200 silicon and hopefully that will
stop any further water incursion.

Richard
Cell: 828 337 0180

On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 12:59 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>wrote:

> Ric:
> Unless the 84 boats are different from the 76, I doubt that the cabin 
> top core is fibreglass. Hopefully the stain is from the sealant but 
> the fact that water is getting through would concern me. The core is 
> likely to be wood and, if so, you really do not want to have water 
> leaking there. The core can rot very quickly if the wood is unsealed. 
> The core in my boat is plywood and is not sealed. On the side decks 
> and foredeck the plywood plys had delaminated from each other and the 
> deck skin in places leaving space for water to travel once it gets in. 
> Fixing that problem required major work.
>
> If someone can confirm that the core  material in that area for an '84 
> is plywood then I think I would remove the hatch to see if there is 
> ANY water getting to the core and in particular determine if there is 
> any rot. If there is, and hopefully it is minor, I would remove all of 
> the rotted wood core, allow the rest to dry thoroughly and then seal 
> all wood surfaces with several coats of un-thickened epoxy. I would 
> then pack the cavity with thickened epoxy. Of course, if you make the 
> hole larger to install a larger hatch that might allow you to 
> eliminate any rotted core material but I would still seal all exposed 
> wood edges with multiple coats of epoxy. Some columns advice that you 
> actually cut the wood back between the fibreglass skins about 1/2 inch 
> and fill that with thickened epoxy. That is what I plan to do if I 
> install a hatch but with all of the stories I hear about leaking 
> hatches I am beginning to wonder if they are worth the trouble.
>
> You might want to get some advice from Stan or others about how large 
> a hatch can be installed there without weakening the deck. In my boat 
> the deck is quite thick - over an inch I think - so it looks pretty 
> strong to me and the double hatches on new boats seem to attest to 
> that - but not all years were built the same and you really would not 
> want to do structural damage.
>
> In any event, if you think that there is any possibility that water 
> might be getting into an unprotected core I would be anxious to get to 
> it before it turns into a potentially serious and expensive problem to 
> fix.
>
> Graham
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Richard Stott
> Sent: September-17-13 11:07 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] R22 installing portlights and hatches
>
> Graham
> The small hatch on my '84 R22 in front of the mast on centerline is 
> only about 10 x 10.
> It leaks a brown stained drip that I can only assume comes from the 
> fiberglass core.
> I want to replace it with a 12 x 18 hatch again, on centerline - I 
> think there's enough room.
> The new boats have two large hatches, one on either side of the mast 
> and farther back.
> I have to fix the leak and want a larger hatch, but don't want to 
> spend the money and time to install two hatches and re-work the 
> fiberglass at the old hatch location.
> If any one has done this, I'd appreciate some feedback.
> Ric
> s/v Dadventure
> Hampton Bays NY
>
> On Sep 17, 2013, at 10:45 AM, Graham Stewart wrote:
>
> > Thanks Bob for advice on installing Beckson ports. I didn't realize 
> > that assume is from water in the foam core around the hatch opening 
> > they were so flexible. Does anyone know whether any hatches are 
> > available that can be placed on the Rhodes deck and take the curve 
> > or
> does
> the deck under the hatch need to be flattened - somehow?
> >
> > Many years ago I removed the original ports entirely, enlarged the 
> > openings and applied a lexan cover over the three ports in one black 
> > strip. It looked good but the material eventually cracked around the 
> > screws because I didn't enlarge the screw holes to allow for 
> > expansion and the material was too thin. The expansion over the 
> > large strip also resulted in the silicone eventually leaking.
> >
> > The sides of the cabin have a compound curve and I am concerned that 
> > thicker lexan might not be sufficiently flexible to be drawn around 
> > it even if I can find a way to allow for expansion  so either I go 
> > back to using ports or apply separate lexan covers for each opening. 
> > At this point the latter seems most feasible and at substantially 
> > less cost but I would be interested to hear from others who have 
> > addressed
> this
> problem or have opinions about it.
> >
> >
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of BobMellor
> > Sent: September-16-13 10:10 PM
> > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] R22 installing portlights and hatches
> >
> > Graham...
> > I replaced mine with becksons..  The fronts were still identical, 
> > but they do not make the real flexible side ones anymore...  I used 
> > the ones a bit bigger, opened the holes a bit, then mounted them 
> > "inside
> out"..  Thus the
> > hard shell part is inside where the alignment did not matter..   Used
> some
> > wedges where needed.  Then I trimmed the sleeve that stuck out too 
> > much on the outside so they were flush with the trim rings. (The 
> > trim rings bend to the contours easily.) ( need to tell them how you 
> > are mounting so the put the lexan in the right way.  The folks at 
> > beckson
> were
> reveal helpful.
> >
> > Bob Mellor
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > View this message in context:
> > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/List-Etiquette-was-Re-availab
> > il
> > ity-of
> > -130-genoas-tp46689p46783.html
> > Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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