[Rhodes22-list] Deck joint repair.
The Rhodes 22 Email List
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Wed Dec 10 07:18:27 EST 2014
Todd,
I don't remember the length of the rivets, but they were much larger than
anything I had previously used. I would guess they were at least in the one
inch range. No additional washers were used and nobody inside. The pop
rivet draws the two sections together. I didn't work in short sections. With
the hull on the trailer I removed all old rivets and did the procedure. The
rivets were aluminum. The size would be partially determined by the drill
size you used to drill out the old rivets. I would recommend using a piece of
wire with a hook on the end to find the depth of the hole. You would want
at least another half inch on the inside for expansion. Unfortunately, I
did this probably fifteen years ago and don't have any rivets in my junk
drawer. I do remember wishing I had a pneumatic riveter. I was younger and
stronger on those days.
Rummy
In a message dated 12/9/2014 9:05:02 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org writes:
Rummy,
I have a few questions about your procedure... when you have time.
Do you remember the grip length of the pop rivets?
Were they aluminum, stainless steel, etc.?
Did you use washers inside?
If working in short sections, it's the hull rigid enough or do you
need someone inside pushing against the hull lip as you draw the joint
right with the rivets?
Any additional info world be extremely helpful.
Todd T.
--
Sent from my Android phone with [1]mail.com Mail. Please excuse my
brevity.
The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
Chuy,
I'm a little short on time, but I will try to detail the procedure
the best
I can.
Remove the rubber insert from the rub rail. In most cases it has
deteriorated enough that you will want to replace it with new.
Having removed the
insert you have found the pop rivets which you will have to drill
out in
order to remove them. Most of the rivet will fall into the interior
of the boat
and you will continue to find them for several years. After
drilling all
the rivets out you will clean the deck joint (area between the two
surfaces)
with something small enough to remove the hardened and worthless
caulking.
The cleaner the joint is, the better. I recommend and used on my
boat a one
part polyurethane sealant called NP1. It is manufactured by a
company
called Sonolastic and is primarily used in roofing applications so
it has great
adherence and weathering properties. It will stick to anything and
can be
easily found through Google.
Now comes the really important part, filling the voids in the seam.
Using a
caulking gun, you will squeeze the trigger as you push the gun
forward,
driving the caulk into the seam. This is reverse as to how you
normally apply
caulk, but you want to fill all the voids. Once the seam has been
sealed,
replace the rivets which you have purchased from an industrial nuts
and
bolts supply house and attach the rub rail. Count the holes before
going and
add 10% just because. Do not try to find them at a hardware store,
they
don't have them. I used a hand operated pop rivet gun, but I would
recommend
purchasing a pneumatic or electric gun to save wear and tear on
your hands
and arms.
Simply sealing the top and bottom edge of the rub rail doesn't do
squat for
stopping water infiltration and besides, it looks crappy.
Good luck and if you have any further questions don't hesitate to
ask.
Rummy
In a message dated 12/8/2014 12:52:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org writes:
Rummy,
Searched list but did not find any material on your deck join
repair. I
would appreciate if you could repost.
Chuy
---- The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> Chuy,
> If you search the list archives you will find a post from me
detailing
the
> easy resealing of the deck joint. If you can't find it, let me
know and
I
> will repost to the list. It's a not to difficult repair, but if
not
done
> correctly, you will find yourself doing it all over again.
>
> Rummy
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