[Rhodes22-list] boat lift and bottom repair update

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Sat Jul 12 08:47:35 EDT 2014 

My heart goes out to you Graham. As I write this, I am sitting on my boat sipping fresh perc'd organic coffee having spent another glorious night sleeping on a mooring @ Salem Willows Yacht Club in Salem, MA. We had a lovely sail here on Wednesday and will head home to SYC today. 

May you sail again soon. 

Stephen Staum
s/v Carol Lee 2
Needham, MA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 11, 2014, at 10:25 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I have been putting my boat lift to good use the last week. I am stripping
> the bottom paint, which is a miserable job under any circumstance but being
> able to do so while sitting on a bar stool makes is immeasurably more
> comfortable. I used copious amounts of "safe" paint remover (West Marine)
> and a carbon blade scraper (Sandvic) to get most of the paint off. Regular
> steel bladed paint scrapers are almost useless. I still have to go at it
> with sandpaper to remove the last 10%. 
> 
> The paint remover will dry faster than it will soften the paint in 80 degree
> weather. When it dries it stops working and you then have to remove the hard
> paint remover. The best solution I found was to coat the bottom in sections
> of about 4' and then cover it with plastic film. Heavy film (6 mil) falls
> off with its own weight while 2 mil stuff stays in place. With the plastic
> you can leave it to work for well over 24 hours. I had to do this at least 3
> times to get to the point where I will sand. It is a totally dirty,
> stinking, exhausting job. My arms were dropping off after the first hour -
> and there were at least 20 hours after that to really make me miserable.
> 
> In removing the paint I have found lots of blisters which I assume are
> osmotic blisters. Most a quite small and none have any fluid or space behind
> them. In some areas the gelcoat has dozens of mini blisters within a patch
> of about 6 square inches. Has anyone seen this?  I expect that the
> blistering is worse than it looks as the boat has been out of the water for
> over three years. Has anyone tackled this problem with their boat?
> 
> After I grind out the blisters and fix with epoxy I intend to put on
> multiple epoxy barrier coats. 
> 
> I plan to raise the waterline by 2" as some of the blisters are above the
> current waterline. My boat seemed to sit stern down as the actual waterline
> was higher than the painted waterline. Of course that could be from weight
> in the stern but I don't think I have anything there that you would not
> expect to find such as the motor. I want to make sure that any part of the
> hull that sits below water has the epoxy protection so I am adjusting the
> waterline to something just above where the boat actually rests in the
> water.
> 
> Finding the new waterline can be a difficult task but by having the front
> and rear slings on the lift operating independently with chain hoists I am
> able to level the boat quite easily fore and aft. I then used my rotary
> laser level ($60 at Home Depot) first to align with the existing waterline
> and then cranked it up 2" to locate the new line. This seemed to work pretty
> well and I am happy that the lines on the port and starboard meet perfectly
> at the bow and in the same plane at the transom. 
> 
> I discovered that the original lines were not located in the same place port
> and starboard and where they meet the transom were not in the same plane so
> that the waterline across the transom was not level. I probably never
> noticed before as boats are always listing anyway but when it comes to
> locating a new line that difference can be a real pain. The lines seemed to
> go off for the last 3 feet at the stern so I was able to use the rest of the
> boat to align the rotary laser with the existing waterline, crank up the
> level 2" and then take the lines trough at the stern. 
> 
> BTW, I discovered that if you want to raise the waterline exactly 2" and
> have it work out evenly on both sides, you can't just measure up 2" from the
> old line. If you measure up on both sides at exactly the same place it might
> come out the same on both sides but it definitely will not be exactly 2". To
> get that right I dropped a ruler vertically at the side of the boat and
> aligned the 2" mark with the laser and then marked the new position where
> the ruler end touched the hull. I then used the new mark to align the rotary
> laser to and from there marked the rest of the hull. This is definitely a
> summer job as the laser light in these armature tools is quite weak for
> outdoor use and the line cannot be seen until dusk. You can rent commercial
> units that are much brighter but I already had the unit from when I
> installed a suspended ceiling.
> 
> Once the paint is completely removed, blisters filled and the hull faired
> and ready for epoxy I will tackle the repair of the outside of the keel.
> Finally, I will try to get access to the inside of the keel with a view to
> removing and replacing ballast and making structural repairs to the keel
> from the inside. All that depends on what I actually find inside the keel
> and whether it is practical or even possible to remove what is there.
> 
> These jobs just get worse.
> 
> Graham 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
> List
> Sent: July-11-14 8:39 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor winch
> 
> One option also is to purchase one of these things and wire it into your
> winch.  At only 23.00 + shipping, it is a really inexpensive solution.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Performance-Lighting-PL-SW29-Wireless/dp/B000BRJ
> F62/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1333130375&sr=1-1
> 
> James
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
> List
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 7:04 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor winch
> 
> Does anyone have an idea of how long to expect the remotes to work? Stan I
> don't know if this is a newer feature on the Rhodes and no one has prolonged
> experience or if the remotes last for years. 
> 
> John Waldhausen
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jul 11, 2014, at 2:54 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I have the Chicago Electric Power Tools Model 95912 12 volt electric 
>> winch from Harbor Freight and have searched far and wide for a new 
>> remote... no luck. Stan said he has no replacement. I ended up buying 
>> what may have been the last winch on the market from an ebay seller. I 
>> figured if I lose my remote I can just install the new winch (which 
>> also came with a remote). I tested the new remote with my current 
>> winch and it doesn't work so I assume each remote came with a code 
>> matched
> to its specific winch.
>> 
>> You could consider installing a wired winch remote. I believe I saw 
>> explanations on how to do this somewhere on the Internet. Good luck.
>> 
>> PS: I keep a Schaefer BoomVang Kit on board that I could quickly 
>> install between the stern rail and the motor in case I drop my remote 
>> overboard or my winch motor quits.
>> 
>> Geoff
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 4:16 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List < 
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>>> Dear all
>>> I have a Rhodes with the Chicago power tools remote control winch to 
>>> raise and lower the motor. It comes from Harbor freight. I have 
>>> searched both company websites to find a replacement remote. I cannot 
>>> find one. ( my original works but is corroding) does anyone know 
>>> where to obtain a replacement?
>>> 
>>> John Waldhausen
>>> Bainbridge island
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> 
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> 
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> 
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