[Rhodes22-list] boat lift and bottom repair update
The Rhodes 22 Email List
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Sat Jul 12 14:25:30 EDT 2014
Rummy:
Rummy:
I tried the plastic wrap too but it is unmanageable - especially when
wearing sticky gloves, It sticks to itself before you can spread it out. You
want the heaviest sheeting that still light enough that it will cling to the
paint remover on an overhead surface. I found that the 2 mill stuff worked
well while the heavy 6 mil stuff was too heavy. It clings to the surface and
is still manageable.
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: July-12-14 7:48 AM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] boat lift and bottom repair update
Graham,
You certainly have taken on a major project, but I can relate to working in
hot weather. I pulled the wife's Chaparral SSI 204 out of the water
yesterday and changed fluids in the lower unit and the engine oil. Of
course I chose a 95 degree day to do it. NOT FUN. A little cleaning and
buffing and I will have it back in the water later today.
I liked your idea of using thin plastic to keep the paint remover wet.
Saran wrap makes a self clinging plastic wrap which might be what you need.
It clings to itself giving you a air tight overlap seam.
My 88 Rhodes has had major bottom work done to it twice. Both times were
done by highly professional shops, but the itty bitty blisters keep
returning. They don't hold any water and don't appear to have gone very
deep and certainly haven't gotten into the fiberglass itself. This time I'm
going to pressure wash. Sand smooth and simply put another layer of bottom
paint on it and go sailing.
Rummy
In a message dated 7/11/2014 10:25:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org writes:
I have been putting my boat lift to good use the last week. I am stripping
the bottom paint, which is a miserable job under any circumstance but being
able to do so while sitting on a bar stool makes is immeasurably more
comfortable. I used copious amounts of "safe" paint remover (West Marine)
and a carbon blade scraper (Sandvic) to get most of the paint off. Regular
steel bladed paint scrapers are almost useless. I still have to go at it
with sandpaper to remove the last 10%.
The paint remover will dry faster than it will soften the paint in 80
degree weather. When it dries it stops working and you then have to remove
the hard paint remover. The best solution I found was to coat the bottom in
sections of about 4' and then cover it with plastic film. Heavy film (6
mil) falls off with its own weight while 2 mil stuff stays in place. With
the plastic you can leave it to work for well over 24 hours. I had to do
this at least
3
times to get to the point where I will sand. It is a totally dirty,
stinking, exhausting job. My arms were dropping off after the first hour -
and there were at least 20 hours after that to really make me miserable.
In removing the paint I have found lots of blisters which I assume are
osmotic blisters. Most a quite small and none have any fluid or space
behind them. In some areas the gelcoat has dozens of mini blisters within a
patch of about 6 square inches. Has anyone seen this? I expect that the
blistering is worse than it looks as the boat has been out of the water for
over three years. Has anyone tackled this problem with their boat?
After I grind out the blisters and fix with epoxy I intend to put on
multiple epoxy barrier coats.
I plan to raise the waterline by 2" as some of the blisters are above the
current waterline. My boat seemed to sit stern down as the actual waterline
was higher than the painted waterline. Of course that could be from weight
in the stern but I don't think I have anything there that you would not
expect to find such as the motor. I want to make sure that any part of the
hull that sits below water has the epoxy protection so I am adjusting the
waterline to something just above where the boat actually rests in the
water.
Finding the new waterline can be a difficult task but by having the front
and rear slings on the lift operating independently with chain hoists I am
able to level the boat quite easily fore and aft. I then used my rotary
laser level ($60 at Home Depot) first to align with the existing waterline
and then cranked it up 2" to locate the new line. This seemed to work
pretty well and I am happy that the lines on the port and starboard meet
perfectly at the bow and in the same plane at the transom.
I discovered that the original lines were not located in the same place
port and starboard and where they meet the transom were not in the same
plane so that the waterline across the transom was not level. I probably
never noticed before as boats are always listing anyway but when it comes
to locating a new line that difference can be a real pain. The lines seemed
to go off for the last 3 feet at the stern so I was able to use the rest of
the boat to align the rotary laser with the existing waterline, crank up
the level 2" and then take the lines trough at the stern.
BTW, I discovered that if you want to raise the waterline exactly 2" and
have it work out evenly on both sides, you can't just measure up 2" from
the old line. If you measure up on both sides at exactly the same place it
might come out the same on both sides but it definitely will not be exactly
2".
To
get that right I dropped a ruler vertically at the side of the boat and
aligned the 2" mark with the laser and then marked the new position where
the ruler end touched the hull. I then used the new mark to align the
rotary laser to and from there marked the rest of the hull. This is
definitely a summer job as the laser light in these armature tools is quite
weak for outdoor use and the line cannot be seen until dusk. You can rent
commercial units that are much brighter but I already had the unit from
when I installed a suspended ceiling.
Once the paint is completely removed, blisters filled and the hull faired
and ready for epoxy I will tackle the repair of the outside of the keel.
Finally, I will try to get access to the inside of the keel with a view to
removing and replacing ballast and making structural repairs to the keel
from the inside. All that depends on what I actually find inside the keel
and whether it is practical or even possible to remove what is there.
These jobs just get worse.
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
Email List
Sent: July-11-14 8:39 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor winch
One option also is to purchase one of these things and wire it into your
winch. At only 23.00 + shipping, it is a really inexpensive solution.
http://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Performance-Lighting-PL-SW29-Wireless/dp/B000BRJ
F62/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1333130375&sr=1-1
James
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
Email List
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 7:04 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor winch
Does anyone have an idea of how long to expect the remotes to work? Stan I
don't know if this is a newer feature on the Rhodes and no one has
prolonged experience or if the remotes last for years.
John Waldhausen
Sent from my iPad
> On Jul 11, 2014, at 2:54 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> I have the Chicago Electric Power Tools Model 95912 12 volt electric
> winch from Harbor Freight and have searched far and wide for a new
> remote... no luck. Stan said he has no replacement. I ended up buying
> what may have been the last winch on the market from an ebay seller.
> I figured if I lose my remote I can just install the new winch (which
> also came with a remote). I tested the new remote with my current
> winch and it doesn't work so I assume each remote came with a code
> matched
to its specific winch.
>
> You could consider installing a wired winch remote. I believe I saw
> explanations on how to do this somewhere on the Internet. Good luck.
>
> PS: I keep a Schaefer BoomVang Kit on board that I could quickly
> install between the stern rail and the motor in case I drop my remote
> overboard or my winch motor quits.
>
> Geoff
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 4:16 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
>> Dear all
>> I have a Rhodes with the Chicago power tools remote control winch to
>> raise and lower the motor. It comes from Harbor freight. I have
>> searched both company websites to find a replacement remote. I
>> cannot find one. ( my original works but is corroding) does anyone
>> know where to obtain a replacement?
>>
>> John Waldhausen
>> Bainbridge island
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