[Rhodes22-list] boat lift and bottom repair update

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Sun Jul 13 10:27:11 EDT 2014 

Thanks Graham. Now I feel a sense of impending doom. & so soon after a lovely sailing vacation. 

Stephen Staum
s/v Carol Lee 2
Needham, MA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 12, 2014, at 2:17 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Stephen:
> Your sympathy overwhelms me. Don't get too cocky though, all boats
> eventually need their bottoms done.
> 
> Graham 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
> List
> Sent: July-12-14 8:48 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] boat lift and bottom repair update
> 
> My heart goes out to you Graham. As I write this, I am sitting on my boat
> sipping fresh perc'd organic coffee having spent another glorious night
> sleeping on a mooring @ Salem Willows Yacht Club in Salem, MA. We had a
> lovely sail here on Wednesday and will head home to SYC today. 
> 
> May you sail again soon. 
> 
> Stephen Staum
> s/v Carol Lee 2
> Needham, MA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jul 11, 2014, at 10:25 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
>> I have been putting my boat lift to good use the last week. I am 
>> stripping the bottom paint, which is a miserable job under any 
>> circumstance but being able to do so while sitting on a bar stool 
>> makes is immeasurably more comfortable. I used copious amounts of 
>> "safe" paint remover (West Marine) and a carbon blade scraper 
>> (Sandvic) to get most of the paint off. Regular steel bladed paint 
>> scrapers are almost useless. I still have to go at it with sandpaper to
> remove the last 10%.
>> 
>> The paint remover will dry faster than it will soften the paint in 80 
>> degree weather. When it dries it stops working and you then have to 
>> remove the hard paint remover. The best solution I found was to coat 
>> the bottom in sections of about 4' and then cover it with plastic 
>> film. Heavy film (6 mil) falls off with its own weight while 2 mil 
>> stuff stays in place. With the plastic you can leave it to work for 
>> well over 24 hours. I had to do this at least 3 times to get to the 
>> point where I will sand. It is a totally dirty, stinking, exhausting 
>> job. My arms were dropping off after the first hour - and there were at
> least 20 hours after that to really make me miserable.
>> 
>> In removing the paint I have found lots of blisters which I assume are 
>> osmotic blisters. Most a quite small and none have any fluid or space 
>> behind them. In some areas the gelcoat has dozens of mini blisters 
>> within a patch of about 6 square inches. Has anyone seen this?  I 
>> expect that the blistering is worse than it looks as the boat has been 
>> out of the water for over three years. Has anyone tackled this problem
> with their boat?
>> 
>> After I grind out the blisters and fix with epoxy I intend to put on 
>> multiple epoxy barrier coats.
>> 
>> I plan to raise the waterline by 2" as some of the blisters are above 
>> the current waterline. My boat seemed to sit stern down as the actual 
>> waterline was higher than the painted waterline. Of course that could 
>> be from weight in the stern but I don't think I have anything there 
>> that you would not expect to find such as the motor. I want to make 
>> sure that any part of the hull that sits below water has the epoxy 
>> protection so I am adjusting the waterline to something just above 
>> where the boat actually rests in the water.
>> 
>> Finding the new waterline can be a difficult task but by having the 
>> front and rear slings on the lift operating independently with chain 
>> hoists I am able to level the boat quite easily fore and aft. I then 
>> used my rotary laser level ($60 at Home Depot) first to align with the 
>> existing waterline and then cranked it up 2" to locate the new line. 
>> This seemed to work pretty well and I am happy that the lines on the 
>> port and starboard meet perfectly at the bow and in the same plane at the
> transom.
>> 
>> I discovered that the original lines were not located in the same 
>> place port and starboard and where they meet the transom were not in 
>> the same plane so that the waterline across the transom was not level. 
>> I probably never noticed before as boats are always listing anyway but 
>> when it comes to locating a new line that difference can be a real 
>> pain. The lines seemed to go off for the last 3 feet at the stern so I 
>> was able to use the rest of the boat to align the rotary laser with 
>> the existing waterline, crank up the level 2" and then take the lines
> trough at the stern.
>> 
>> BTW, I discovered that if you want to raise the waterline exactly 2" 
>> and have it work out evenly on both sides, you can't just measure up 
>> 2" from the old line. If you measure up on both sides at exactly the 
>> same place it might come out the same on both sides but it definitely 
>> will not be exactly 2". To get that right I dropped a ruler vertically 
>> at the side of the boat and aligned the 2" mark with the laser and 
>> then marked the new position where the ruler end touched the hull. I 
>> then used the new mark to align the rotary laser to and from there 
>> marked the rest of the hull. This is definitely a summer job as the 
>> laser light in these armature tools is quite weak for outdoor use and 
>> the line cannot be seen until dusk. You can rent commercial units that 
>> are much brighter but I already had the unit from when I installed a
> suspended ceiling.
>> 
>> Once the paint is completely removed, blisters filled and the hull 
>> faired and ready for epoxy I will tackle the repair of the outside of the
> keel.
>> Finally, I will try to get access to the inside of the keel with a 
>> view to removing and replacing ballast and making structural repairs 
>> to the keel from the inside. All that depends on what I actually find 
>> inside the keel and whether it is practical or even possible to remove
> what is there.
>> 
>> These jobs just get worse.
>> 
>> Graham
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
>> Email List
>> Sent: July-11-14 8:39 PM
>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor winch
>> 
>> One option also is to purchase one of these things and wire it into 
>> your winch.  At only 23.00 + shipping, it is a really inexpensive
> solution.
>> 
>> http://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Performance-Lighting-PL-SW29-Wireless/dp/B
>> 000BRJ
>> F62/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1333130375&sr=1-1
>> 
>> James
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
>> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
>> Email List
>> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 7:04 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Motor winch
>> 
>> Does anyone have an idea of how long to expect the remotes to work? 
>> Stan I don't know if this is a newer feature on the Rhodes and no one 
>> has prolonged experience or if the remotes last for years.
>> 
>> John Waldhausen
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Jul 11, 2014, at 2:54 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I have the Chicago Electric Power Tools Model 95912 12 volt electric 
>>> winch from Harbor Freight and have searched far and wide for a new 
>>> remote... no luck. Stan said he has no replacement. I ended up buying 
>>> what may have been the last winch on the market from an ebay seller. 
>>> I figured if I lose my remote I can just install the new winch (which 
>>> also came with a remote). I tested the new remote with my current 
>>> winch and it doesn't work so I assume each remote came with a code 
>>> matched
>> to its specific winch.
>>> 
>>> You could consider installing a wired winch remote. I believe I saw 
>>> explanations on how to do this somewhere on the Internet. Good luck.
>>> 
>>> PS: I keep a Schaefer BoomVang Kit on board that I could quickly 
>>> install between the stern rail and the motor in case I drop my remote 
>>> overboard or my winch motor quits.
>>> 
>>> Geoff
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 4:16 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List < 
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Dear all
>>>> I have a Rhodes with the Chicago power tools remote control winch to 
>>>> raise and lower the motor. It comes from Harbor freight. I have 
>>>> searched both company websites to find a replacement remote. I 
>>>> cannot find one. ( my original works but is corroding) does anyone 
>>>> know where to obtain a replacement?
>>>> 
>>>> John Waldhausen
>>>> Bainbridge island
>>>> __________________________________________________
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>>>> 
>>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and 
>>>> archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
>>>> __________________________________________________
>>> __________________________________________________
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>>> 
>>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and 
>>> archives go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
>>> __________________________________________________
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
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>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives 
>> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
>> __________________________________________________
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
>> To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
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>> 
>> For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives 
>> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
>> __________________________________________________
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
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>> 
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>> go to http://www.rhodes22.org/list 
>> __________________________________________________
> 
> __________________________________________________
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> 
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> http://www.rhodes22.org/list
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> 
> __________________________________________________
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