[Rhodes22-list] Cracks in keel

Wed Jun 18 13:33:57 EDT 2014

Thanks Chuy:
Using an 8" grinding wheel I am able to make a taper of about 3.5" on the
inside of the housing. I think the rule is 8:1  in that the taper should be
8 times the size of the gap so this should be adequate. I have to make sure
that I leave room for the centreboard to clear.

Graham 

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: June-18-14 10:02 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Cracks in keel

You may want to read up on using fiberglass.  All I have read indicated that
you need to sand or grind the fiberglass to a gradual taper.  Taper to the
crack enough to apply the new glass in layers so that the hull has the
strength it had before.  Three to four inches might be correct.  Look up how
to repair cracks on boats. I just Googled it and watch a lot of You tube.

Like you lift.

Good luck,

Chuy

---- The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: 
> Graham,
> 
> I love your lift. Maybe I will build one some day. It would make bottom
painting so much easier. 
> 
> I have not done any of this work (hope I never will) so I cannot offer
advice. 
> 
> Stephen Staum
> s/v Carol Lee 2
> Needham, MA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jun 17, 2014, at 4:31 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> > I have finally put my boat  into the lift I built so that I can 
> > begin work on the cracks in the keel and would welcome any advice as 
> > to how this might be fixed and speculation as to the cause so that I 
> > might prevent it from happening again.
> > 
> > Picture 1 is of the boat in the lift. This allows me to get under 
> > the keel to work in reasonable comfort.
> > The next two pictures show the cracks with the camera under the keel 
> > looking up. The centreboard is removed. The cracks run along the 
> > edge where the bottom of the keel meets the inside of the centreboard
slot.
> > 
> > As for the cause, I suspect that some time in the past the keel was 
> > damaged leaving a crack that allowed water to enter where it might 
> > have froze in the winter doing further damage. On the other hand I 
> > would have thought that the water would have drained out before freezing
temperatures were reached.
> > 
> > There appears to be voids in the keel. The last shot shows were I 
> > was drilling out osmosis blisters and went right through the skin into a
void.
> > Tapping on the skin often creates a hollow sound suggesting that 
> > there are plenty more voids. It seems to me that voids under the 
> > skin are a recipe for problems. Drilling holes and pumping in epoxy 
> > would not be that difficult for those I find under the outside skin 
> > but would be much more difficult for voids under the skin in the
centreboard slot - which currently looks intact.
> > I thought I might drill a series of holes through the cabin bottom 
> > into the keel and push more epoxy down from above. To find voids I 
> > might need to drill a lot of holes.
> > 
> > As for the cracks, my current plan, absent any other ideas, is to 
> > open the cracks to allow access with a cartridge tip and force 
> > thickened epoxy up into the crack. I would then apply layers of cloth
and epoxy from about 3"
> > up to the slot down and around the bottom and up 3" on the outside. 
> > I have ground out a bevel on the inside to allow for layers of cloth 
> > to be added without making the slot too narrow for the centreboard.
> > 
> > When all that is done I plan to do the whole bottom - drill out 
> > blisters and do the blister prevention program recommended by West 
> > System. I don't want to ever do this again so suggestions are welcome.
Thanks in advance.
> > 
> > Graham
> > 
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