[Rhodes22-list] Deck core repair

Thu Oct 30 14:17:46 EDT 2014

In responding to Brad about how I repaired the core in my foredeck I might have left the impression that I thought that removing the deck entirely was the best option. In fact, I think it is an option that would only be best in specific circumstances. 

It occurs to me that there are four approaches - others might be able to add more:
They are, in order of my preference: 1, epoxy injection, 2, removal of the deck skin, 3, total removal of the deck, and 4, removal of the liner.

These are the circumstances under which I would consider using each of these alternatives:

1, Epoxy injection:
I think this would ONLY work where the core material is solid and completely dry. Injecting epoxy into punky wood is just a waste of time. What injection will do is address delamination and greatly increase the rigidity of the core. This is the fastest, cleanest and easiest alternative but needs to be done properly to avoid only pumping epoxy through the core to pool, uselessly, on the inside surface of the liner.

2, Remove the Deck skin: 
This would be done by using a tool like a rotozip to cut around the outside edge of the deck, lifting off the skin, replace the core material and then replace the skin. This would be my first choice if I thought that the core material was wet but the deck skin still had its shape. The big advantage is that the work is below you and you are working in a lighted, ventilated environment and in a comfortable position. Gravity is on your side. The disadvantage is that your deck will have cuts all around it that will need to be repaired. Because most of the cuts will go through the non-skid pattern you will probably need to do fairly extensive repairs depending on the outcome you are looking for.

3, Remove the deck entirely and rebuild in your shop: It is not hard to remove the deck but not so easy to reinstall it but this might be the best option if the deck is badly out of shape. You need to construct a frame that will hold the deck skin in its proper shape while to insert the new core material. It would be difficult, I expect, to rebuild the core and insure proper shape using any of the other methods.

4, Remove the inside liner: This could be done using a rotozip much as the outside skin could be removed. The   big advantage here is that the deck is not marked up. The disadvantage is that you will be doing the work overhead in a very cramped spot that is not easy to get in and out of. Because gravity is working against you. you will have to work out a system of braces to keep things up there while the epoxy cures and live with the prospect of wet epoxy dripping on your face. It is also dark and has poor ventilation. The prospect of working under those circumstances thoroughly discouraged me. The other problem is that the liner is very thin and it might not be possible to remove it without breaking it. (The deck skin is much thicker.) I think I would consider this approach only when the area to be repaired is very localized.

With the experience I now have, I would have been better to have used the injection method for the deck with the exception of the one wet area around the vent. The problem is that until you get in there it is very difficult to tell what you are dealing with so under those circumstances removing the top skin would probably have been necessary. I was able to determine that the side decks had solid core material. I was able to repair those decks in about a day's work while the foredeck took about a weak to repair and forever to reinstall.

Graham 

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email List
Sent: October-30-14 12:23 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] My new toy.... Talk me into saving it

Brad,

When you lay your head down tonight, seek to answer these questions.

1 - Did I buy this boat because I really like to work on boats and have a project to keep me busy?

2 - Did I buy a sailboat because I really want to enjoy sailing?

New or Old, over the lifetime of a boat she will cost you about 10% per year of the original New cost. Less up front and more in the end. Boats are not cheap to own. That is why they are called a hole in the water into which you throw money.

If you plan to fix up this boat, you may spend as much in the end as it would cost you to purchase a sail ready Rhoades 22. 

Ray 

----- Original Message -----
From: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2014 10:30:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] My new toy.... Talk me into saving it

Brad,
   My sister in law gave me a Rhodes 22 , 1987 based in Seattle, five years ago.  It was in bad shape but not as bad as yours.  I trailered down here to Phoenix and have been working on it since then.  I was not retired at the time, so I did not do that much.   The Pop Top was totally gone and I ordered one from Stan at General Boats.  We removed all deck hardware, repaired, replaced and had a few items re-chromed. Some of the cleats would not longer hold, so we removed and replaced.  We sanded, and painted the boat.  Reinstalled the hardware.  The galley had been totally removed and I had no idea what exactly I need to do.  I started to look at the galley and found the flooring had black mold and rut.  I removed all the flooring and reinstalled stringers and replace all the floor.  I installed fiberglass in some areas that need it, lots did.  I put exact foam under the deck and it firmed up the deck.  I installed the foam from the back, not an easy job.  I am now re-wiring, I moved the control panel from the step way to above the galley countertop.  I am now redoing the countertop, I had a lot of help from the pictures I found on the net and also pictures sent to me by fellow Rhodes 22 owners. Stan, at General Boats, is also very helpful. 

The ballast was not damaged.  I would say that it is time consuming, costly, and area restrictive. If you have the time, and some extra money you should be able to do the job.  Take your time, ask questions and enjoy it. Make it a hobby not a job.  It you have extra hands around, that sometimes helps but in some cases more hands is not helpful.  Your Tube is very helpful.  There are great videos out there.

But as has been stated already.  Most of these jobs have been done by Rhodes 22 owners.  So there is a lot of advice.  I found that looking at pictures of repairs is most helpful.

Take it nice and easy,
Chuy

---- The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: 
> Thanks all for your replies... Todd... If I took another boat hull, I do believe my wife would be standing there with her hands on her hips instead of yours.... :) ..... but thanks anyway....
I'm open to all ideas here on the boat. I have a farm and equipment, so heavy lifting and long term storage should not be a problem. I'm still not sure if I'm going to fix her yet, but here are my main problems I need to tackle.
1. Deck soft and caved in. (thanks for your suggestions so far). 2. Keel area where the concrete is broken up (the good news here is there STILL is standing water in the floor area.
3. Floor repair- not a big deal, unless I want to go teak and holly like one of y'all did!! (which was flat out beautiful by the way) 4. Repairing every fitting... everything seems loose or has a lot of give... I figure they all need backing plates....
I'm up here in Northern Michigan with a long winter ahead of me and have a lot more tools than brains.... this might be fun!! (...I know.... I know...... famous last words.......) Brad Brad Bachelor

Marrying an old bachelor is like buying second-hand furniture. -- Helen Rowland 1875-1950, American Journalist
      From: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
 To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
 Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2014 8:42 AM
 Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] My new toy.... Talk me into saving it

Brad,  sounds like your deck is as soft as mine was.  Instead of drilling holes in from the top on mine i cut out the underside of the deck and i am going back with oak and Maine ply. It has been a lot of work,  and my job has kept me away from it for several months,  but of the methods i read about this is the one that i felt would give me the strongest and best looking deck within my skill set. 

James

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

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