[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull

[The Rhodes 22 Email List]

Chuy:

Just a few thoughts and suggestions.

I used fibreglass on the inside of the join but had to cut the lip off the
liner to get in to the area. In my case there was a strip of wood on the
inside of the join that was broken and rotted wherever the water reached it
so I removed it with a chisel. I also wanted to bond the fibreglass to the
deck and hull fibreglass rather than to a weak piece of plywood. Before
applying the fibreglass I filled the join area with epoxy thickened with
high-strength filler to fill any gaps and old holes and to give a smooth
radius for the glass. I used epoxy for everything because of its superior
properties but I am sure polyester would work as well. I used two layers of
6" roving tape but plan to add another two layers later because I have no
idea how many layers are adequate.. (see pictures).

I glassed the joint from the bow to the aft of the cabin at the
companionway. I could not see the need to glass the seam beyond that point
as a bit of water leaking into the cockpit is not a problem and from what I
could see it would be incredibly difficult to get into the area behind the
seats to work on the joint.

I will probably insert bolts after the fibreglass work is completed but
might use rivets. Putting glass over the bolts does not seem like a good
idea to me. I would not use 5200 for the bolts as the day may well come when
you want to remove them again. Nothing is permanent except the mess that
5200 creates. Using 5200 for the area where the deck and hull overlap might
be appropriate but I would be inclined to use the stuff the Rummy used. It
is just my bias, but I have never used 5200 when I didn't eventually regret
it.

If you glass the joint adequately you will need considerably fewer
mechanical fasteners so there will be fewer places for leaks to develop. 

If you also fill the joint with a good sealant I can't see how significant
amounts of water could make its way past the rub rail and through the bolt
holes. I expect that the leaks were primarily through the joint. In my case
the original rivets were aluminium, I think, and there was no rust.

If your boat is anything like mine you will not be able to save and reuse
the old rub rail. When I replace mine I will use the one-piece flexible
vinyl stuff as it looks to be a better product and easier to install.

Good luck,


Graham Stewart
gstewart8 at cogeco.ca
613 389-1737

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: February-03-15 6:01 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull

I have had a lot of great advise from everyone on the Deck and Hull repair.
But, still have one question/problem. 

Rhodes 22 have a Shoe Box joint and have aluminum pop rivets to hold the
joint together, plus some old style glue.  I am following the lead from
Rummy and will Fiberglass the joint and use stainless steel bolts with
locking nuts. Here is my outline of the repair.

 On one side of boat at a time:
1. Remove rivets one at a time and in every third hole insert a temporary
bolt and nut to hold joint together. .
2. Remove all rub rail, aluminum and rubber.
3. Sand the area where rub rail was, careful with temporary bolts.
4. Insert permanent bolts with washers and locking nuts, use 5200 to seal
bolts.
5. Tighten nuts from inside of boat. ( some may be hard to reach) 6.
Fiberglass the area , making sure to cover the bottom lip of the joint and
also cover the bolts.
 6b. Maybe gelcoat some area.
7. Replace aluminum rub rail and use Fiberglass PEANUT BUTTER to attach
aluminum part to boat.  ???
8. Insert rubber
9. Touch up.

 The reason I want to use Fiberglass to set the rub rail is because setting
the rub rail with bolts will require more holes to be drilled.  My boat
leaks from the holes where the aluminum pop rivets have CORRODED.  I am not
in favor of drilling more holes into a boat.  I know that everyone says that
it took 30 years for the leaks to occur but why do the same mistake again?  

My question is : Will the rub rail hold using Fiberglass??  Other Comments?

Thanks,
Chuy

My personal email is chcarreon at cox.net if you would rather reply just to me.
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