[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull

[The Rhodes 22 Email List]

You can improve the joint and create a strong leakproof boat without glassing it all together.  If the job doesnt go well or the design flex isnt there you could easily crack that fiberglass seal and then it would leak like crazy.  You also would remove the option of seperating the boat hull and deck for rebuild or recycling.  You also will reduce the value or worse yet just be left with the value of hardware.  Also you cannot stick on a rubrail with resin... It will "rub" off.  Too much work, too many risks.  Study what Rummy did.  Its a perfect solution!

Bob (palatka fl)

> On Feb 4, 2015, at 8:14 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Personally, I think this is way overkill.  You'll add a lot of weight to
> the boat pretty high up above the water line and it has to affect the
> sailing characteristics.  I doubt you would find any manufacturer of boats
> today that joins the deck and hull like this so don't understand why you
> feel it is necessary.  It is a very permanent solution, so think long and
> hard if you really want to make this modification.
> 
> Hank
> On Tue, Feb 3, 2015 at 6:00 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
>> I have had a lot of great advise from everyone on the Deck and Hull
>> repair.  But, still have one question/problem.
>> 
>> Rhodes 22 have a Shoe Box joint and have aluminum pop rivets to hold the
>> joint together, plus some old style glue.  I am following the lead from
>> Rummy and will Fiberglass the joint and use stainless steel bolts with
>> locking nuts. Here is my outline of the repair.
>> 
>> On one side of boat at a time:
>> 1. Remove rivets one at a time and in every third hole insert a temporary
>> bolt and nut to hold joint together. .
>> 2. Remove all rub rail, aluminum and rubber.
>> 3. Sand the area where rub rail was, careful with temporary bolts.
>> 4. Insert permanent bolts with washers and locking nuts, use 5200 to seal
>> bolts.
>> 5. Tighten nuts from inside of boat. ( some may be hard to reach)
>> 6. Fiberglass the area , making sure to cover the bottom lip of the joint
>> and also cover the bolts.
>> 6b. Maybe gelcoat some area.
>> 7. Replace aluminum rub rail and use Fiberglass PEANUT BUTTER to attach
>> aluminum part to boat.  ???
>> 8. Insert rubber
>> 9. Touch up.
>> 
>> The reason I want to use Fiberglass to set the rub rail is because
>> setting the rub rail with bolts will require more holes to be drilled.  My
>> boat leaks from the holes where the aluminum pop rivets have CORRODED.  I
>> am not in favor of drilling more holes into a boat.  I know that everyone
>> says that it took 30 years for the leaks to occur but why do the same
>> mistake again?
>> 
>> My question is : Will the rub rail hold using Fiberglass??  Other Comments?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Chuy
>> 
>> My personal email is chcarreon at cox.net if you would rather reply just to
>> me.
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