[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull

Wed Feb 4 18:58:06 EST 2015

Glassing the hull-deck joint is contrary to common building practice, if
not ABYC standards.  That joint needs to flex.

Rick

On Wed, Feb 4, 2015 at 6:00 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Graham:
> You present a good argument.
>
> Bob (palatka fl)
>
> > On Feb 4, 2015, at 3:24 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >
> > I would not suggest glassing the joint as a first option or on a newer
> boat.
> > It is a lot of work and unless you are stripping out the entire cabin
> > fixtures, too disruptive. However, if you have already removed all of the
> > interior structure and have good access to the joint it is not, in my
> view,
> > an unwarranted step to take.
> >
> > There is quite a lot of information on the net about the advantages of
> > glassing the join on boats where the join is such that glassing is
> > practicable. Some like the famous world sailor and author Hal Roth, did
> it
> > on the outside and then had to completely fair and repaint the entire
> boat.
> > That, I would not want to do on any boat where I had any concern about
> how
> > it would look afterwards.  The construction of the Rhodes, however, makes
> > glassing on the inside much easier and practical as the join is entirely
> > hidden.
> >
> > Here is an example of advice on this point:
> >
> http://www.wavetrain.net/boats-a-gear/317-fiberglass-boatbuilding-hull-deck-
> > joints
> >
> > Because my boat was already stripped out, it took me a few hours to
> glass up
> > the join. It was not difficult and makes a join that is very strong - in
> > effect making the hull and deck into a single piece. I will still use
> bolts
> > so the glass only strengthens what would be there anyway. Weight is
> minimal
> > - maybe a few pounds. Increasing rigidity at the join is, in my view, a
> good
> > thing as movement at the join is bound to lead to trouble.
> >
> > My boat is an old one and there is no possibility that it will be
> recycled
> > or have the deck removed for any other purpose. But the old boats had
> > thinner glass construction and are more likely to leak - if only because
> of
> > their advanced age. The value will not depreciate as it has little value
> > anyway. What it should do, however, is give a boat that I like a lot  a
> new
> > lease on life.
> >
> > All that said, you obviously need to carefully consider whether this is a
> > necessary or worthwhile repair under your particular circumstances. I
> don't
> > understand why it would be rejected out of hand in all circumstances.
> >
> > Graham
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> > List
> > Sent: February-04-15 1:53 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull
> >
> > You can improve the joint and create a strong leakproof boat without
> > glassing it all together.  If the job doesnt go well or the design flex
> isnt
> > there you could easily crack that fiberglass seal and then it would leak
> > like crazy.  You also would remove the option of seperating the boat hull
> > and deck for rebuild or recycling.  You also will reduce the value or
> worse
> > yet just be left with the value of hardware.  Also you cannot stick on a
> > rubrail with resin... It will "rub" off.  Too much work, too many risks.
> > Study what Rummy did.  Its a perfect solution!
> >
> > Bob (palatka fl)
> >
> >>> On Feb 4, 2015, at 8:14 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
> >> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>
> >> Personally, I think this is way overkill.  You'll add a lot of weight
> >> to the boat pretty high up above the water line and it has to affect
> >> the sailing characteristics.  I doubt you would find any manufacturer
> >> of boats today that joins the deck and hull like this so don't
> >> understand why you feel it is necessary.  It is a very permanent
> >> solution, so think long and hard if you really want to make this
> > modification.
> >>
> >> Hank
> >> On Tue, Feb 3, 2015 at 6:00 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>
> >>> I have had a lot of great advise from everyone on the Deck and Hull
> >>> repair.  But, still have one question/problem.
> >>>
> >>> Rhodes 22 have a Shoe Box joint and have aluminum pop rivets to hold
> >>> the joint together, plus some old style glue.  I am following the
> >>> lead from Rummy and will Fiberglass the joint and use stainless steel
> >>> bolts with locking nuts. Here is my outline of the repair.
> >>>
> >>> On one side of boat at a time:
> >>> 1. Remove rivets one at a time and in every third hole insert a
> >>> temporary bolt and nut to hold joint together. .
> >>> 2. Remove all rub rail, aluminum and rubber.
> >>> 3. Sand the area where rub rail was, careful with temporary bolts.
> >>> 4. Insert permanent bolts with washers and locking nuts, use 5200 to
> >>> seal bolts.
> >>> 5. Tighten nuts from inside of boat. ( some may be hard to reach) 6.
> >>> Fiberglass the area , making sure to cover the bottom lip of the
> >>> joint and also cover the bolts.
> >>> 6b. Maybe gelcoat some area.
> >>> 7. Replace aluminum rub rail and use Fiberglass PEANUT BUTTER to
> >>> attach aluminum part to boat.  ???
> >>> 8. Insert rubber
> >>> 9. Touch up.
> >>>
> >>> The reason I want to use Fiberglass to set the rub rail is because
> >>> setting the rub rail with bolts will require more holes to be
> >>> drilled.  My boat leaks from the holes where the aluminum pop rivets
> >>> have CORRODED.  I am not in favor of drilling more holes into a boat.
> >>> I know that everyone says that it took 30 years for the leaks to
> >>> occur but why do the same mistake again?
> >>>
> >>> My question is : Will the rub rail hold using Fiberglass??  Other
> > Comments?
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Chuy
> >>>
> >>> My personal email is chcarreon at cox.net if you would rather reply just
> >>> to me.
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