[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull
The Rhodes 22 Email List
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Thu Feb 5 23:20:48 EST 2015
The deck to hull joint should not flex. The article which someone
linked outlined that 5200, closely spaced bolts and glass was the best
method. I agree with the author, but of you want to do it "half fast",
seal with a never hardening sealer, put the rivets back in and just
hide them with the rub rail. Done and done.
Too bad Roger Pihlara left the list.
Todd T.
--
Sent from my Android phone with [1]mail.com Mail. Please excuse my
brevity.
The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
Chuy:
Good summary and sorry to be part of the confusion.
If it helps to sort out he confusing advice, I think that the
options of
glassing or using 5200 (or equivalent) might not be all that
different in
the end. They claim that 5200 is as strong as the glass - although
that
would depend on whether it is applied properly - and using glass
would also
as strong as the hull and deck if is of sufficient thickness. 5200
is more
flexible than glass but with bolts every foot or so, the flex would
be
minimal, if any, anyway.
With glass you should be able to get away with fewer bolts. I
consulted with
a master boat restoration person on this point who told me I should
use a
bolt every 4 feet! That seemed very far spaced to me so I will
probably use
a bolt about every 18" to be safe.
If you can get rid of the existing sealant and get a good quantity
of the
new sealant deep into the join, then go with that option. If you
can't get
adequate sealant into the join or if it cures faster than you can
apply the
bolts, or possibly, if you want to avoid removing the rub rail,
then you
might want to go the route of the glass - providing you have good
access to
the join on the inside of the boat. Of course, these approaches are
not
mutually exclusive either. In fact, I plan to use the sealant and
more
closely-spaced bolts on the back quarter and transom.
Either way, I think you will end up with a good and permanent fix.
Which
method you choose should be guided by the materials you feel most
comfortable using and which method offers greatest access to the
join rather
than be too concerned about which is "better".
Just do what you think will be most achievable and feasible under
your
circumstance. Either way I think the fix will be good and
permanent.
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes
22 Email
List
Sent: February-05-15 3:30 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull
I have received a lot of emails concerning my ideas on Deck to hull
leak
repair. Some people said don't glass other said use glass. Some
pointed
out articles that stated to glass, other pointed to articles stated
to use
5200. Seems to me that Glassing and 5200 are about the same in
terms of
bonding and later in removing.
Some liked the idea of a strong, ridge side, some were concerning
about not
being flexible.
Some, like the glass inside the hull but did not like the glass
outside.
Others thought that glass would ruin the boat for various reasons,
while
others thought that the glass would increasing the worth of the
boat.
The boat spend most of its sailing days in Florida. I do want to
point out
that my pop rivets were corroded and in some cases totally gone.
Some of
the rivets were nothing more thin aluminum around white dust.
(Chemical
reaction of aluminum and salt water )
So, I am a not a little confused!!! I am a lot confused.
However, I realize more replies will give me more options to
consider and to
select a good one. Not sure there is a GREAT and ONLY ONE.
Thanks, and keep the comments coming,
Chuy
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