[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator
The Rhodes 22 Email List
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Sat Feb 7 23:47:21 EST 2015
Chuy: Please keep us informed with photos and details of the job. If your rivets were corroded you really have no choice but to re-do the hull to deck joint in some fashion. I look forward to hearing about your journey .
Bob (palatka)
> On Feb 7, 2015, at 7:48 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> Hi Chuy:
>
> The postings opposed to the idea of fixing the hull-deck join with
> fibreglass lay-up were making me increasingly doubt the approach I
> suggested. However, your reference to Don Casey's article in Sail magazine
> prompted me to check the subject of hull-deck repairs in Casey's book
> Sailboat Hull and Deck Repairs that I had read about 4 years ago and had
> forgotten about. I knew that I had not just dreamt up the idea of joining
> the hull and deck with fibreglass layup but I could not remember where the
> idea originated. Casey gives detailed instructions for sealing with 5200 and
> re-fastening where access to the joint is not feasible. That said, he states
> the following:
>
> "FIBERGLASSING
> THE BEST SOLUTION FOR A LEAKING HULL-to-deck joint is to join the two parts
> permanently with fibreglass lay-up. This can be done either inside or
> outside, depending on access and the design of the joint." (Emphasis is in
> the original text.)
>
> In discussing types of joints, Casey says: "The best joints are fibreglasses
> together into a single strong and leak-free unit, but few are built this
> way. Most are joined mechanically with rivets, screws, or bolts and depend
> on sealant to keep water out."
>
> In my case, getting access to the joint involved removing the covering pads
> (a few screws), cutting back the lip of the liner, and removing the wooden
> strip below the joint -all tasks that are much easier than removing and
> replacing the rub rail and all of the hull-deck fasteners. I removed my rub
> rail because I also had major deck core replacement to do but had that not
> been the case I would have stayed with the inside glassing alone.
>
> At least now I can sleep knowing that I had not lost my mind or ruined the
> boat.
>
>
> Graham
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
> List
> Sent: February-06-15 1:14 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator
>
> Hi ALL ,
> I received my special anniversary issue of Sail Magazine early in the
> week but did not have time to read it., Volume 46 Number 2 February 2015.
> Tonight I open it to the table of contents and guess what one of the
> articles was about? Page 60, "Sealed up Tight When is comes to securing
> the hull to deck, which method is best?" by Don Casey.
>
> The author states "Boat builders are increasingly relying on high-strength
> methacrylate adhesives to fuse the hull to the deck into a single, leak
> proof component, in some cases omitting mechanical fasteners all together".
> Further he states that this process is expansive so some builders use
> flexible adhesives to bond the deck and hull, like 5200. He goes on and
> states that repairs on the joint are not treated as two halves, since there
> is no reason to. In most cases the deck to hull repair is done without a
> joint in the damaged area.
>
> The article is very well written and easy to follow. He explains the
> different hull to deck joints used. Their strengths and weaknesses and the
> reason to for their use.
>
> After reading the article, I think that I most of my ideas with a few minor
> adjustments.
>
> Thanks for all your input.
>
> Chuy
> AfterMath 1987
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