[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator

Sun Feb 8 21:32:57 EST 2015

I haven't replaced the hull deck joint on a Rhodes-22.  I did do a moderate
repair on a previous Rhodes Mariner 19.  I sold my Rhodes 22 and don't know
when I'll get another boat, so take all this for what it's worth.

If I were doing the repair, I would consider the original design of the boat
(nearly bulletproof) and the age at which problems developed, and only then
consider whether the original construction needed to be improved upon.
Another way of thinking about it would be, if the original joint lasted
twenty years, most of us will not be sailing long enough to worry about the
longevity of a well-done rebuilding to the original standards.  This doesn't
even take into account the improvements made in durability of modern
sealants and adhesives.  

My $0.02

If the forecast is right, we will (by tomorrow) have received about 6' of
snow over the past two weeks.  I'd love to think about sailing.  Maybe
that's why I've decided to jump in.

At least I don't have to shovel off the boat cover.

Jim Connolly 

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2015 9:06 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator

Rick:
Actually I did check the AYBA standards after you mentioned them before but
could not find any reference to the matter of the hull-deck joint. Do you
know if they address this directly? 
I don't know what to make of the comment about Casey not knowing the
difference between a sealant and an adhesive. In the book I have he has a
whole section on the topic.

Graham 

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: February-08-15 4:28 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator

Hi Graham,

Don Casey is a good writer for recreational sailing publications.  However,
I have never seen him write for the boat building industry, like Profession
Boat Builder magazine.  Yet it is a good thing that since writing the book
you read, he now seems to know the difference between a sealant and an
adhesive.

If you want the advice of many who spend all their days doing it, check the
ISO or AYBA standards.

Rick

On Sat, Feb 7, 2015 at 7:48 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Hi Chuy:
>
> The postings opposed to the idea of fixing the hull-deck join with 
> fibreglass lay-up were making me increasingly doubt the approach I 
> suggested. However, your reference to Don Casey's article in Sail 
> magazine prompted me to check the subject of hull-deck repairs in 
> Casey's  book Sailboat Hull and Deck Repairs that I had read about 4 
> years ago and had forgotten about. I knew that I had not just dreamt 
> up the idea of joining the hull and deck with fibreglass layup but I 
> could not remember where the idea originated. Casey gives detailed 
> instructions for sealing with 5200 and re-fastening where access to 
> the joint is not feasible. That said, he states the following:
>
> "FIBERGLASSING
> THE BEST SOLUTION FOR A LEAKING HULL-to-deck joint is to join the two 
> parts permanently with fibreglass lay-up. This can be done either 
> inside or outside, depending on access and the design of the joint."
> (Emphasis is in the original text.)
>
> In discussing types of joints, Casey says: "The best joints are 
> fibreglasses together into a single strong and leak-free unit, but few 
> are built this way. Most are joined mechanically with rivets, screws, 
> or bolts and depend on sealant to keep water out."
>
> In my case, getting access to the joint involved removing the covering 
> pads (a few screws), cutting back the lip of the liner, and removing 
> the wooden strip below the joint -all tasks that are much easier than 
> removing and replacing the rub rail and all of the hull-deck 
> fasteners. I removed my rub rail because I also had major deck core 
> replacement to do but had that not been the case I would have stayed 
> with
the inside glassing alone.
>
> At least now I can sleep knowing that I had not lost my mind or ruined 
> the boat.
>
>
> Graham
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: February-06-15 1:14 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator
>
> Hi ALL ,
>    I received my special anniversary issue of Sail Magazine early in 
> the week but did not have time to read it., Volume 46 Number 2 
> February
2015.
> Tonight I open it to the table of contents and guess what one of the
> articles was about?   Page 60, "Sealed up Tight When is comes to securing
> the hull to deck, which method is best?" by Don Casey.
>
> The author states "Boat builders are increasingly relying on 
> high-strength methacrylate adhesives to fuse the hull to the deck into 
> a single, leak proof component, in some cases omitting mechanical
fasteners all together".
> Further he states that this process is expansive so some builders use 
> flexible adhesives to bond the deck and hull, like 5200.  He goes on 
> and states that repairs on the joint are not treated as two halves, 
> since there is no reason to.  In most cases the deck to hull repair is 
> done without a joint in the damaged area.
>
> The article is very well written and easy to follow.  He explains the 
> different hull to deck joints used.  Their strengths and weaknesses 
> and the reason to for their use.
>
> After reading the article, I think that I most of my ideas with a few 
> minor adjustments.
>
> Thanks for all your input.
>
> Chuy
> AfterMath  1987
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