[Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator
The Rhodes 22 Email List
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Mon Feb 9 14:59:02 EST 2015
I think it is The American Boat & Yacht Council, ABYC, not the AYBA .
---- The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> Graham,
>
> Take a look at AYBA book H-27 2014.
>
> On Casey, I was just referring to what you said about what he wrote. That
> is, he discussed sealants in his book but later in his article realized it
> is really about adhesives.
>
> Realize that making the joint rigid to prevent leaks transfers the stress
> of flexing to areas of the deck and hull that are not designed to absorb
> that much stress. In other words, you wind up with a boat that keeps
> cracking in the wrong places forevermore.
>
> Rick
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 8, 2015 at 9:05 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > Rick:
> > Actually I did check the AYBA standards after you mentioned them before but
> > could not find any reference to the matter of the hull-deck joint. Do you
> > know if they address this directly?
> > I don't know what to make of the comment about Casey not knowing the
> > difference between a sealant and an adhesive. In the book I have he has a
> > whole section on the topic.
> >
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> > Email
> > List
> > Sent: February-08-15 4:28 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator
> >
> > Hi Graham,
> >
> > Don Casey is a good writer for recreational sailing publications. However,
> > I have never seen him write for the boat building industry, like Profession
> > Boat Builder magazine. Yet it is a good thing that since writing the book
> > you read, he now seems to know the difference between a sealant and an
> > adhesive.
> >
> > If you want the advice of many who spend all their days doing it, check the
> > ISO or AYBA standards.
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > On Sat, Feb 7, 2015 at 7:48 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Chuy:
> > >
> > > The postings opposed to the idea of fixing the hull-deck join with
> > > fibreglass lay-up were making me increasingly doubt the approach I
> > > suggested. However, your reference to Don Casey's article in Sail
> > > magazine prompted me to check the subject of hull-deck repairs in
> > > Casey's book Sailboat Hull and Deck Repairs that I had read about 4
> > > years ago and had forgotten about. I knew that I had not just dreamt
> > > up the idea of joining the hull and deck with fibreglass layup but I
> > > could not remember where the idea originated. Casey gives detailed
> > > instructions for sealing with 5200 and re-fastening where access to
> > > the joint is not feasible. That said, he states the following:
> > >
> > > "FIBERGLASSING
> > > THE BEST SOLUTION FOR A LEAKING HULL-to-deck joint is to join the two
> > > parts permanently with fibreglass lay-up. This can be done either
> > > inside or outside, depending on access and the design of the joint."
> > > (Emphasis is in the original text.)
> > >
> > > In discussing types of joints, Casey says: "The best joints are
> > > fibreglasses together into a single strong and leak-free unit, but few
> > > are built this way. Most are joined mechanically with rivets, screws,
> > > or bolts and depend on sealant to keep water out."
> > >
> > > In my case, getting access to the joint involved removing the covering
> > > pads (a few screws), cutting back the lip of the liner, and removing
> > > the wooden strip below the joint -all tasks that are much easier than
> > > removing and replacing the rub rail and all of the hull-deck
> > > fasteners. I removed my rub rail because I also had major deck core
> > > replacement to do but had that not been the case I would have stayed with
> > the inside glassing alone.
> > >
> > > At least now I can sleep knowing that I had not lost my mind or ruined
> > > the boat.
> > >
> > >
> > > Graham
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> > > [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> > > Email List
> > > Sent: February-06-15 1:14 AM
> > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New Joint of Deck and Hull from originator
> > >
> > > Hi ALL ,
> > > I received my special anniversary issue of Sail Magazine early in
> > > the week but did not have time to read it., Volume 46 Number 2 February
> > 2015.
> > > Tonight I open it to the table of contents and guess what one of the
> > > articles was about? Page 60, "Sealed up Tight When is comes to securing
> > > the hull to deck, which method is best?" by Don Casey.
> > >
> > > The author states "Boat builders are increasingly relying on
> > > high-strength methacrylate adhesives to fuse the hull to the deck into
> > > a single, leak proof component, in some cases omitting mechanical
> > fasteners all together".
> > > Further he states that this process is expansive so some builders use
> > > flexible adhesives to bond the deck and hull, like 5200. He goes on
> > > and states that repairs on the joint are not treated as two halves,
> > > since there is no reason to. In most cases the deck to hull repair is
> > > done without a joint in the damaged area.
> > >
> > > The article is very well written and easy to follow. He explains the
> > > different hull to deck joints used. Their strengths and weaknesses
> > > and the reason to for their use.
> > >
> > > After reading the article, I think that I most of my ideas with a few
> > > minor adjustments.
> > >
> > > Thanks for all your input.
> > >
> > > Chuy
> > > AfterMath 1987
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