[Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Mon May 4 16:25:54 EDT 2015 

Thanks everyone for all the input.  I pretty much did what Richard suggested and put a soupy two part epoxy into the cleaned out screw holes, screwed the block back in place while the epoxy was moist and coated the screws and bottom of block with 5200 for a secure bond.  The other option if this fails is to thru bolt the block which is a GB alternate but this puts another nut in cabin interior.  I will let all this set up for a couple of days and then try to raise the mast again.

Christopher P. Cowie    

4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW
Suite 300
Washington, DC 20007
202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ● 202.270.1470 mobile
[ccowie at cowieassociates.com]


Please consider the environment before printing this email.

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email List
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 3:56 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate

Hi Chris...sorry to hear about your little "mishap". There seems to be as many opinions about how to fix it as there R22 owners. My two cents is to clean the holes out so there are no loose flakes and fill the holes with runny epoxy, Most important is when to you screw down the plate make sure you really seal it well - in the holes and around, I would use 5200 as I would hope you wouldn't have to do this again but 4200 is fine as well.

FYI i am using a hanked on Genoa and no IMF so with no canvas on the mast I can raise the mast with great ease using a simple bock and tackle.

Cheers
Richard

On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 2:34 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> This advice is from a book on fiberglass boat restoration.  The epoxy 
> bonds and becomes integral to the surfaces around it so that they 
> don't just pull out, they become a part of the entire skin of the 
> boat.  The author of the book recommends this for both screw holes and 
> for bolt throughs so that there is no access to the core once the epoxy has dried.
>
> Graham is correct in that using a structural filler for the epoxy 
> increases the strength.  I forgot to mention that part.
>
> James Nichols
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:
> rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email 
> List
> Sent: Monday, May 4, 2015 10:31 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate
>
> Filling the larger holes with epoxy would be very risky.  The next 
> time you over stress the plate, the epoxy plugs plus gelcoat will tear 
> out.  It would be better to fill with 3M 4200.
>
> Rick
>
> On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 10:59 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List < 
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > Thanks.  My blunder is limited to the Cabin Roof Plate, so far, that 
> > the hoist crane attaches to  and your advice to drill out the screw 
> > holes and fill with epoxy sound good.
> >
> > Details:
> >
> > READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!  Ok, I have had my boat for five years and 
> > had the mast up and down a few times so I figured this would be a 20 
> > minute exercise to lower the mast for some mast top maintenance.  
> > The mast crane that came with my boat has a bale on it to connect 
> > the line with shackles to the bale on the mast.  The crane currently 
> > on my boat was apparently replaced during a visit to the plant with 
> > a different crane that does not have a bale rather two connection 
> > points for the turnbuckles of the two aft lower shrouds.  I have 
> > never lowered the mast with the shroud method before so I simply 
> > clipped one end of the line with shackles to the bow cleat and the 
> > other end to the crane and then connected the crane line to the mast 
> > bale.  That is backwards from the instructions I failed to read.  
> > The mast came down but pulled the crane base plate out of the cabin 
> > top and the mast decided to go
> > 45 degrees to port.  I managed to pull the mast back to center and 
> > lower it then realized two more blunders.  I remembered to 
> > disconnect the sliding hatch but failed to close the hatch and 
> > failed to move the slider up the mast.  My sliding hatch now has 
> > some crunched fiberglass to remind me to close the hatch next time.  
> > The final error was not having sufficient length in the lower 
> > forward shrouds that get the chains.  Wrong chain position and or 
> > not having the turnbuckle open enough.  The result was some very 
> > tight shrouds that bent the top of the chain plates.  So after five 
> > years of boating without any major
> screw ups I suppose this makes me an official Rhodie!
> >
> > Christopher P. Cowie
> >
> > 4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW
> > Suite 300
> > Washington, DC 20007
> > 202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ● 202.270.1470 mobile 
> > [ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
> >
> >
> > Please consider the environment before printing this email.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:
> > rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email 
> > List
> > Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 10:30 AM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate
> >
> > Christopher,
> >
> > I would drill out the holes you are going to make for the screws 
> > twice as wide and the teeth of the screws, then back fill the holes with Epoxy.
> > Once that is dry, sand it flush with the deck and drill pilot holes 
> > into the epoxy for the new screws.
> >
> > This way there is no direct path from the screw to the core material 
> > and you don't end up with a soft deck like I have.  Lots of people 
> > try to depend on the surface sealants between the plate and the 
> > deck, but the work that happens at the screw/plate/deck area will 
> > create an opening to the core where water can seep.  By drilling out 
> > a hole twice as wide as the screws teeth, you gain a water proof 
> > buffer between the screws and the water absorbing core material.
> >
> > James Nichols
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:
> > rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email 
> > List
> > Sent: Monday, May 4, 2015 9:12 AM
> > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate
> >
> > I managed to rip the cabin roof plate, used to connect the mast 
> > hoist crane, off my boat yesterday, don't ask how, and I need to reinstall.
> > I understand that this plate can be screwed to the cabin top or thru
> bolted.
> > I prefer to try and make the repair with the screws.  I will use 3M
> > 5200 Polyurethane Adhesive/Sealant from the plate to the cabin top.
> > My question is what I should fill the two screw holes with to re 
> > insert the  screws?  I assume this should be the West System #404 
> > High Density Filler that can be injected into the striped screw 
> > holes and then re drill two 3/16" pilot holes once it has dried.  
> > Does this seem
> like to correct repair?
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > Christopher P. Cowie
> >
> > 4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW
> > Suite 300
> > Washington, DC 20007
> > 202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ● 202.270.1470 mobile [ 
> > ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > View this message in context:
> > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Cabin-Roof-Plate-tp49793.html
> > Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> >
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> >
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> >
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