[Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate

The Rhodes 22 Email List rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Thu May 7 16:41:34 EDT 2015 

Rummy,

I've tried epoxy.  It holds the screws too tight for tear-out, resulting in
major gelcoat damage.  Stan's instructions for the deck crane block specify
3M 4200.  And that seals just fine.

Rick

On Thu, May 7, 2015 at 3:27 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Rick,
> I'm, sorry, but I disagree. You must fill the holes with epoxy for strength
>  and also to seal the area from water penetration. 4200 should not be used.
>
> Rummy
>
>
> In a message dated 5/4/2015 11:31:01 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org writes:
>
> Filling  the larger holes with epoxy would be very risky.  The next time
> you
> over stress the plate, the epoxy plugs plus gelcoat will tear  out.  It
> would be better to fill with 3M 4200.
>
> Rick
>
> On  Mon, May 4, 2015 at 10:59 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List  <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > Thanks.  My  blunder is limited to the Cabin Roof Plate, so far, that the
> > hoist  crane attaches to  and your advice to drill out the screw holes
> and
> > fill with epoxy sound good.
> >
> >  Details:
> >
> > READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!  Ok, I have had my boat  for five years and had
> the
> > mast up and down a few times so I figured  this would be a 20 minute
> > exercise to lower the mast for some mast top  maintenance.  The mast
> crane
> > that came with my boat has a bale on  it to connect the line with
> shackles
> > to the bale on the mast.   The crane currently on my boat was apparently
> > replaced during a visit  to the plant with a different crane that does
> not
> > have a bale rather  two connection points for the turnbuckles of the two
> aft
> > lower  shrouds.  I have never lowered the mast with the shroud method
> before
> > so I simply clipped one end of the line with shackles to the  bow cleat
> and
> > the other end to the crane and then connected the crane  line to the mast
> > bale.  That is backwards from the instructions I  failed to read.  The
> mast
> > came down but pulled the crane base  plate out of the cabin top and the
> mast
> > decided to go 45 degrees to  port.  I managed to pull the mast back to
> > center and lower it  then realized two more blunders.  I remembered to
> > disconnect the  sliding hatch but failed to close the hatch and failed to
> > move the  slider up the mast.  My sliding hatch now has some crunched
> >  fiberglass to remind me to close the hatch next time.  The final error
> was
> > not having sufficient length in the lower forward shrouds that get  the
> > chains.  Wrong chain position and or not having the  turnbuckle open
> > enough.  The result was some very tight shrouds  that bent the top of the
> > chain plates.  So after five years of  boating without any major screw
> ups I
> > suppose this makes me an  official Rhodie!
> >
> > Christopher P. Cowie
> >
> > 4400  MacArthur Blvd, NW
> > Suite 300
> > Washington, DC 20007
> >  202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ● 202.270.1470 mobile
> >  [ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
> >
> >
> > Please consider the  environment before printing this email.
> >
> > -----Original  Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:
> >  rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
> List
> > Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 10:30 AM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22  Email List'
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof  Plate
> >
> > Christopher,
> >
> > I would drill out the holes  you are going to make for the screws twice
> as
> > wide and the teeth of  the screws, then back fill the holes with Epoxy.
> > Once that is dry,  sand it flush with the deck and drill pilot holes into
> > the epoxy for  the new screws.
> >
> > This way there is no direct path from the  screw to the core material and
> > you don't end up with a soft deck like  I have.  Lots of people try to
> > depend on the surface sealants  between the plate and the deck, but the
> work
> > that happens at the  screw/plate/deck area will create an opening to the
> > core where water  can seep.  By drilling out a hole twice as wide as the
> > screws  teeth, you gain a water proof buffer between the screws and the
> > water  absorbing core material.
> >
> > James Nichols
> >
> >  -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org  [mailto:
> > rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes  22 Email
> List
> > Sent: Monday, May 4, 2015 9:12 AM
> > To:  rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof  Plate
> >
> > I managed to rip the cabin roof plate, used to connect  the mast hoist
> > crane, off my boat yesterday, don't ask how, and I need  to reinstall.  I
> > understand that this plate can be screwed to the  cabin top or thru
> bolted.
> > I prefer to try and make the repair with the  screws.  I will use 3M 5200
> > Polyurethane Adhesive/Sealant from  the plate to the cabin top.  My
> question
> > is what I should fill  the two screw holes with to re insert the  screws?
>  I
> > assume  this should be the West System #404 High Density Filler that can
> be
> >  injected into the striped screw holes and then re drill two 3/16"  pilot
> > holes once it has dried.  Does this seem like to correct  repair?
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > Christopher P.  Cowie
> >
> > 4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW
> > Suite 300
> >  Washington, DC 20007
> > 202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ●  202.270.1470 mobile [
> >  ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > View  this message in context:
> >  http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Cabin-Roof-Plate-tp49793.html
> >  Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> >
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