[Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate
The Rhodes 22 Email List
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Thu May 7 19:38:32 EDT 2015
Rick,
And Stan is always right? Don't you believe it.
Now ducking for cover.
Rummy
In a message dated 5/7/2015 4:41:52 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org writes:
Rummy,
I've tried epoxy. It holds the screws too tight for tear-out, resulting in
major gelcoat damage. Stan's instructions for the deck crane block specify
3M 4200. And that seals just fine.
Rick
On Thu, May 7, 2015 at 3:27 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> Rick,
> I'm, sorry, but I disagree. You must fill the holes with epoxy for
strength
> and also to seal the area from water penetration. 4200 should not be
used.
>
> Rummy
>
>
> In a message dated 5/4/2015 11:31:01 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org writes:
>
> Filling the larger holes with epoxy would be very risky. The next time
> you
> over stress the plate, the epoxy plugs plus gelcoat will tear out. It
> would be better to fill with 3M 4200.
>
> Rick
>
> On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 10:59 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > Thanks. My blunder is limited to the Cabin Roof Plate, so far, that
the
> > hoist crane attaches to and your advice to drill out the screw holes
> and
> > fill with epoxy sound good.
> >
> > Details:
> >
> > READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Ok, I have had my boat for five years and had
> the
> > mast up and down a few times so I figured this would be a 20 minute
> > exercise to lower the mast for some mast top maintenance. The mast
> crane
> > that came with my boat has a bale on it to connect the line with
> shackles
> > to the bale on the mast. The crane currently on my boat was
apparently
> > replaced during a visit to the plant with a different crane that does
> not
> > have a bale rather two connection points for the turnbuckles of the
two
> aft
> > lower shrouds. I have never lowered the mast with the shroud method
> before
> > so I simply clipped one end of the line with shackles to the bow cleat
> and
> > the other end to the crane and then connected the crane line to the
mast
> > bale. That is backwards from the instructions I failed to read. The
> mast
> > came down but pulled the crane base plate out of the cabin top and the
> mast
> > decided to go 45 degrees to port. I managed to pull the mast back to
> > center and lower it then realized two more blunders. I remembered to
> > disconnect the sliding hatch but failed to close the hatch and failed
to
> > move the slider up the mast. My sliding hatch now has some crunched
> > fiberglass to remind me to close the hatch next time. The final error
> was
> > not having sufficient length in the lower forward shrouds that get the
> > chains. Wrong chain position and or not having the turnbuckle open
> > enough. The result was some very tight shrouds that bent the top of
the
> > chain plates. So after five years of boating without any major screw
> ups I
> > suppose this makes me an official Rhodie!
> >
> > Christopher P. Cowie
> >
> > 4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW
> > Suite 300
> > Washington, DC 20007
> > 202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ● 202.270.1470 mobile
> > [ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
> >
> >
> > Please consider the environment before printing this email.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:
> > rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
> List
> > Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 10:30 AM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate
> >
> > Christopher,
> >
> > I would drill out the holes you are going to make for the screws
twice
> as
> > wide and the teeth of the screws, then back fill the holes with Epoxy.
> > Once that is dry, sand it flush with the deck and drill pilot holes
into
> > the epoxy for the new screws.
> >
> > This way there is no direct path from the screw to the core material
and
> > you don't end up with a soft deck like I have. Lots of people try to
> > depend on the surface sealants between the plate and the deck, but the
> work
> > that happens at the screw/plate/deck area will create an opening to
the
> > core where water can seep. By drilling out a hole twice as wide as
the
> > screws teeth, you gain a water proof buffer between the screws and the
> > water absorbing core material.
> >
> > James Nichols
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:
> > rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
> List
> > Sent: Monday, May 4, 2015 9:12 AM
> > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate
> >
> > I managed to rip the cabin roof plate, used to connect the mast hoist
> > crane, off my boat yesterday, don't ask how, and I need to
reinstall. I
> > understand that this plate can be screwed to the cabin top or thru
> bolted.
> > I prefer to try and make the repair with the screws. I will use 3M
5200
> > Polyurethane Adhesive/Sealant from the plate to the cabin top. My
> question
> > is what I should fill the two screw holes with to re insert the
screws?
> I
> > assume this should be the West System #404 High Density Filler that
can
> be
> > injected into the striped screw holes and then re drill two 3/16"
pilot
> > holes once it has dried. Does this seem like to correct repair?
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > Christopher P. Cowie
> >
> > 4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW
> > Suite 300
> > Washington, DC 20007
> > 202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ● 202.270.1470 mobile [
> > ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > View this message in context:
> > http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Cabin-Roof-Plate-tp49793.html
> > Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> >
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>
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