[Rhodes22-list] stan vs Rummy from stan
The Rhodes 22 Email List
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Tue May 12 09:37:09 EDT 2015
Stan:
My list thread included reference to 5200 for the cabin roof plate to cabin top per the mast hoist system instructions and that is exactly what I used in addition to re-securing the machine screws. I think someone else misquoted the 4200 so the omelets must be keeping your memory in good shape.
Christopher P. Cowie
4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW
Suite 300
Washington, DC 20007
202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ● 202.270.1470 mobile
[ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
Please consider the environment before printing this email.
-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email List
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2015 6:42 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] stan vs Rummy from stan
too busy plucking eggs off the production line before they roll off and break - not enough boat sales to open stores yet but noticed this thread between omelets.
Rummy is right as usual but technically because the attributed quote is in error. If the subject matter is the plastic base at the cabin top's widows peak that the GB mast hoist hand attaches to, these are simply threaded into the cabin's thick trunk's roof - or bolted on for those allergic to instruction booklets. should this part pop off a privately purchased old Rhodes that we are asked to repair, we whittle slivers of wood and hammer them into epoxy filled holes and use a 3/16" bit and
re-tap the renewed hole(s) for the 1/4" machine screw(s). What I don't
know about all this is in Wikipedia starting on page one. So don't pick on Rummy yet - he is still a sick man.
show me my quote about recommending 4200 (of all species) and I will show you an old man whose memory is going.
ss
>> Rick,
>> And Stan is always right? Don't you believe it.
>> Now ducking for cover.
>>
>> Rummy
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 5/7/2015 4:41:52 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org writes:
>>
>> Rummy,
>>
>> I've tried epoxy. It holds the screws too tight for tear-out,
>> resulting in major gelcoat damage. Stan's instructions for the deck
>> crane block specify 3M 4200. And that seals just fine.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> On Thu, May 7, 2015 at 3:27 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Rick,
>>> I'm, sorry, but I disagree. You must fill the holes with epoxy for
>> strength
>>> and also to seal the area from water penetration. 4200 should not
>>> be
>> used.
>>> Rummy
>>>
>>>
>>> In a message dated 5/4/2015 11:31:01 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org writes:
>>>
>>> Filling the larger holes with epoxy would be very risky. The next
>>> time you
>>> over stress the plate, the epoxy plugs plus gelcoat will tear out. It
>>> would be better to fill with 3M 4200.
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>> On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 10:59 AM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks. My blunder is limited to the Cabin Roof Plate, so far,
>>>> that
>> the
>>>> hoist crane attaches to and your advice to drill out the screw
>>>> holes
>>> and
>>>> fill with epoxy sound good.
>>>>
>>>> Details:
>>> >
>>>> READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Ok, I have had my boat for five years and had
>>> the
>>>> mast up and down a few times so I figured this would be a 20
>>>> minute exercise to lower the mast for some mast top maintenance.
>>>> The mast
>>> crane
>>>> that came with my boat has a bale on it to connect the line with
>>> shackles
>>>> to the bale on the mast. The crane currently on my boat was
>> apparently
>>>> replaced during a visit to the plant with a different crane that
>> does
>>> not
>>>> have a bale rather two connection points for the turnbuckles of
>>>> the
>> two
>>> aft
>>>> lower shrouds. I have never lowered the mast with the shroud method
>>> before
>>>> so I simply clipped one end of the line with shackles to the bow
>> cleat
>>> and
>>>> the other end to the crane and then connected the crane line to
>>>> the
>> mast
>>>> bale. That is backwards from the instructions I failed to read.
>>>> The
>>> mast
>>>> came down but pulled the crane base plate out of the cabin top
>>>> and
>> the
>>> mast
>>>> decided to go 45 degrees to port. I managed to pull the mast back to
>>>> center and lower it then realized two more blunders. I remembered to
>>>> disconnect the sliding hatch but failed to close the hatch and
>>>> failed
>> to
>>>> move the slider up the mast. My sliding hatch now has some crunched
>>>> fiberglass to remind me to close the hatch next time. The final
>> error
>>> was
>>>> not having sufficient length in the lower forward shrouds that get
>> the
>>>> chains. Wrong chain position and or not having the turnbuckle open
>>>> enough. The result was some very tight shrouds that bent the top of
>> the
>>>> chain plates. So after five years of boating without any major
>>>> screw
>>> ups I
>>>> suppose this makes me an official Rhodie!
>>>>
>>>> Christopher P. Cowie
>>>>
>>>> 4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW
>>>> Suite 300
>>>> Washington, DC 20007
>>>> 202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ● 202.270.1470 mobile
>>>> [ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Please consider the environment before printing this email.
>>> >
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:
>>>> rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
>>>> Email
>>> List
>>>> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 10:30 AM
>>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate
>>>>
>>>> Christopher,
>>>>
>>> > I would drill out the holes you are going to make for the
>>> screws
>> twice
>>> as
>>>> wide and the teeth of the screws, then back fill the holes with
>> Epoxy.
>>>> Once that is dry, sand it flush with the deck and drill pilot
>>>> holes
>> into
>>>> the epoxy for the new screws.
>>>>
>>>> This way there is no direct path from the screw to the core
>>>> material
>> and
>>>> you don't end up with a soft deck like I have. Lots of people
>>>> try
>> to
>>>> depend on the surface sealants between the plate and the deck,
>>>> but
>> the
>>> work
>>>> that happens at the screw/plate/deck area will create an opening to
>> the
>>>> core where water can seep. By drilling out a hole twice as wide
>>>> as
>> the
>>>> screws teeth, you gain a water proof buffer between the screws
>>>> and
>> the
>>>> water absorbing core material.
>>> >
>>>> James Nichols
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org [mailto:
>>>> rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
>>>> Email
>>> List
>>>> Sent: Monday, May 4, 2015 9:12 AM
>>>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cabin Roof Plate
>>>>
>>>> I managed to rip the cabin roof plate, used to connect the mast hoist
>>>> crane, off my boat yesterday, don't ask how, and I need to
>> reinstall. I
>>>> understand that this plate can be screwed to the cabin top or
>>>> thru
>>> bolted.
>>>> I prefer to try and make the repair with the screws. I will use
>>>> 3M
>> 5200
>>>> Polyurethane Adhesive/Sealant from the plate to the cabin top. My
>>> question
>>>> is what I should fill the two screw holes with to re insert the
>> screws?
>>> I
>>>> assume this should be the West System #404 High Density Filler
>>>> that
>> can
>>> be
>>>> injected into the striped screw holes and then re drill two 3/16"
>> pilot
>>>> holes once it has dried. Does this seem like to correct repair?
>>>>
>>> >
>>>> -----
>>>> Christopher P. Cowie
>>>>
>>>> 4400 MacArthur Blvd, NW
>>>> Suite 300
>>>> Washington, DC 20007
>>>> 202.342.2711 ex.204 ● 202.342.2691 fax ● 202.270.1470 mobile [
>>>> ccowie at cowieassociates.com]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> > --
>>>> View this message in context:
>>>>
>>>> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Cabin-Roof-Plate-tp49793.htm
>>>> l
>>> > Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>>> >
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>> go
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>> go
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