[Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation

Sun Sep 13 09:45:11 EDT 2015

Bob:

Why did you use construction adhesive to attach the stringers to the
fibreglass tabs rather than epoxy and cloth?

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: September 12, 2015 10:44 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation

Graham:
I used 2x pressure treated pine lumber for stringers.  I used polyurethane
construction adhesive to glue them to the old fiberglass tabs.  It worked
very well.  Then i used pressure treated 3/4" exterior ply for the floor.
It is very stable and i hope will last a very long time.  I have also found
a nice polyethylene  carpet made from recycled water bottles to cover the
floorboards.  It should be long lasting as well and shouldnt hold moisture,
dirt or odor.

Bob (palatka)

> On Sep 12, 2015, at 6:32 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Larry:
> I used white oak and epoxy when I rebuilt my 20' mahogany runabout to 
> replace rotted ribs and bottom. White oak is resistant to rot but not 
> impervious as the original wood ribs were white oak as well and 
> eventually rotted albeit over a 40 year period. The big advantage 
> using white oak is that it is amazing wood to steam bend. It is hard 
> as rock when dry but after steaming for a while thin strips can be 
> bent by hand easily. That makes it perfect for steam-bent ribs.
> 
> Hopefully the epoxy will prohibit rot that only works if the epoxy 
> totally encapsulates the wood with no cuts gouges or holes in the 
> wood. In my case the epoxy also bonded the ribs to mahogany ply that 
> was used to cold mold the new bottom. That combination made for an 
> incredibly strong, solid, dry and relatively light boat.
> 
> For the Rhodes floor, however, white oak is expensive and I would be 
> inclined to use something that did not depend on the epoxy to be 
> perfectly sealed. Pressure treated seems like the easiest, cheapest 
> and most certain material to use. I will still use epoxy to bond it in 
> place. Before I bought my Rhodes the previous owner rebuilt the floor 
> structure using pressure treated fence boards. They lasted for more 
> than 20 years with no sign of rot. The problem with using fence boats 
> is that they are only .5 inch thick and that did not give a 
> sufficiently wide edge for the floor boards to be screwed down. I was 
> also unhappy with where they were located so I tore it all out to be 
> replaced with thicker stock. I will no doubt be kicking myself for 
> that as tearing things out is so much easier than putting it all back 
> in
> - a realization that weighs more heavily as I consider that it was not 
> really necessary except to feed my obsessive nature.
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: September 12, 2015 1:47 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
> 
> When we rebuilt the floor and stringers, we used White Oak stringers 
> and expoxied them.
> 
> Larry Allen
> Makai
> Sarasota
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2015 11:11 AM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
> 
> Bob:
> 
> Best and crucial solution is to stop the leaks. I have gone to 
> ridiculous lengths to do that by glassing the hull-heck joint and 
> installing full acrylic window coverings to replace all ports.
> 
> I am not sure that ventilation alone would preclude rot over time if 
> the bilge is not dry otherwise. I plan to rebuild the floor and 
> stringers with rot resistant materials - I will probably use pressure 
> treated pine for the structural pieces. That said, ventilation still 
> serves a purpose in terms of mold and mildew etc.
> 
> I have installed a solar vent that should keep air moving in the boat. 
> The bilge is hardly air tight at the best of time and, so long as 
> water is not getting in, good cabin ventilation should be sufficient 
> to move air through the bilge. For long periods and during the winter 
> when the solar vent may not be operating I will leave the floor access
panels open.
> 
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 
> Email List
> Sent: September 11, 2015 7:54 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation
> 
> Has anyone installed vent holes or even active ventilation under the 
> floor to prevent the stringers and floor from rotting out?
> 
> Bob (palatka)
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