[Rhodes22-list] Navigation lights

Sun Sep 13 13:08:09 EDT 2015

I saw some really nice LED strip type red and greens at Academy that could be easily mounted to the bow or near the front of the cabin side. 

James

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

From:"The Rhodes 22 Email List" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Date:Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 9:42 AM
Subject:Re: [Rhodes22-list] Navigation lights

Graham,

When I refitted my 1991 R22, I converted every lamp to led.  I changed the
interior cabin lights to "RV Trailer 48-SMD Warm White High Power Light
Panel + T10 BA9S Adapter" from eBay for a couple of bucks each.  I actually
put 2 48-smds in each fixture, using the slide switch to activate one or
both.  The current draw dropped from 2A to .3A and the light output is
great!  I found some red, green and white T-10 bulbs with 12smds to replace
the running lights.

Mike
s/v Windlass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2015 9:54 AM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Navigation lights

I am wondering how newer Rhodes are equipped with navigation lights or if
anyone has any strong preferences for lights. My 76 had the red and green
lights mounted on the cabin sides back at the cockpit rather than near the
bow. Is that still the case or have they been moved forward to the bow? Has
anyone installed a masthead tricolor light? LED lights seem sensible but are
they worth the added expense? Any recommendations would be welcome.

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: September 12, 2015 6:32 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation

Larry:
I used white oak and epoxy when I rebuilt my 20' mahogany runabout to
replace rotted ribs and bottom. White oak is resistant to rot but not
impervious as the original wood ribs were white oak as well and eventually
rotted albeit over a 40 year period. The big advantage using white oak is
that it is amazing wood to steam bend. It is hard as rock when dry but after
steaming for a while thin strips can be bent by hand easily. That makes it
perfect for steam-bent ribs. 

Hopefully the epoxy will prohibit rot that only works if the epoxy totally
encapsulates the wood with no cuts gouges or holes in the wood. In my case
the epoxy also bonded the ribs to mahogany ply that was used to cold mold
the new bottom. That combination made for an incredibly strong, solid, dry
and relatively light boat.

For the Rhodes floor, however, white oak is expensive and I would be
inclined to use something that did not depend on the epoxy to be perfectly
sealed. Pressure treated seems like the easiest, cheapest and most certain
material to use. I will still use epoxy to bond it in place. Before I bought
my Rhodes the previous owner rebuilt the floor structure using pressure
treated fence boards. They lasted for more than 20 years with no sign of
rot. The problem with using fence boats is that they are only .5 inch thick
and that did not give a sufficiently wide edge for the floor boards to be
screwed down. I was also unhappy with where they were located so I tore it
all out to be replaced with thicker stock. I will no doubt be kicking myself
for that as tearing things out is so much easier than putting it all back in
- a realization that weighs more heavily as I consider that it was not
really necessary except to feed my obsessive nature.

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: September 12, 2015 1:47 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation

When we rebuilt the floor and stringers, we used White Oak stringers and
expoxied them. 

Larry Allen
Makai
Sarasota

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2015 11:11 AM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation

Bob:

Best and crucial solution is to stop the leaks. I have gone to ridiculous
lengths to do that by glassing the hull-heck joint and installing full
acrylic window coverings to replace all ports.

I am not sure that ventilation alone would preclude rot over time if the
bilge is not dry otherwise. I plan to rebuild the floor and stringers with
rot resistant materials - I will probably use pressure treated pine for the
structural pieces. That said, ventilation still serves a purpose in terms of
mold and mildew etc. 

I have installed a solar vent that should keep air moving in the boat. The
bilge is hardly air tight at the best of time and, so long as water is not
getting in, good cabin ventilation should be sufficient to move air through
the bilge. For long periods and during the winter when the solar vent may
not be operating I will leave the floor access panels open. 

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: September 11, 2015 7:54 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bilge ventilation

Has anyone installed vent holes or even active ventilation under the floor
to prevent the stringers and floor from rotting out?

Bob (palatka)
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