[Rhodes22-list] [SUSPECTED SPAM] RE: Chainplates and handrails installed

Tue Sep 22 10:29:28 EDT 2015

Rob:
Working with epoxy is not difficult but I understand why it might seem
intimidating. I have used epoxy often in reconstructing a for structural
repairs on a wooden boat but this boat is the first time I used it for
surface finishing. So, put this way, it can't possibly be all that
difficult. Using the fairing additive for the final work makes it is easy to
sand the surface very smooth with no visible seam. However, in this case I
did not use gel coat as I completely painted the deck using System Three
waterborne epoxy paint. Gel coat patching is more difficult in terms of
getting the color just right and I have virtually no experience with it.
Other than the color, I don't think gel coat is all that difficult if you
take your time. There are great videos on YouTube that show how it is done.

My undertaking of big projects is in no way a function of either skill of
experience. I am just foolish. But inevitably I find that it is not as
difficult as it seems and there is virtually nothing that can't be fixed or
redone when, not if, you screw it up. I just take my time and am prepared to
do it repeatedly until I can live with the result. In the end, I do it
because I like doing it and seeing the result. Reconstruction has to be a
satisfying process not just a necessary evil that must be endured to get to
the end product. If I didn't enjoy doing it I would never have gotten this
far and definitely I would not have been able to justify either the time or
expense. I am a social worker by training so that didn't help in any
technical sense. 

So, if you enjoy the process, I don't think there is anything that a person
who can read can't do. The only thing that is impossible, in my books, is to
complete anything  according to the time line that I thought was extremely
generous when I started. Everything takes much longer than I expected so I
now refuse to tell anyone - especially my wife - when I think the task will
be completed. The lack of technical skill is not the enemy of such projects,
it is being impatient to finish.

Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: September 22, 2015 8:42 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Chainplates and handrails installed

Graham,

I must say, you do some wonder looking work.  I'm in awe at how good your
chain plate repairs look.  As someone who has never worked with epoxy or
glass, I wouldn't even think of attempting what you are doing.  I understand
grinding out an area and refilling it with epoxy and sawdust, but how to you
put the gel coat layer on?  I've got a couple of areas on my boat that could
use a similar treatment but I wouldn't know where to start.  The new grab
rails look fabulous too! - Rob

Rob Lowe
(still no name) R22

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2015 4:13 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Chainplates and handrails installed

I just completed installing the new lower chainplates and cabin handrails
and attach some photos for those  who might be interested in these projects.

I removed the lower chainplates by grinding out a fairly large area and then
filled the space with epoxy and sawdust. This created a very solid core that
gave what I hope and expect will be a good place for the new forged eye
bolts that I am using as the new lower chainplates that bolt through the
cabin top. They are sealed with butyl. They cost about $14 each in Canada -
about double the price in the US.

I replaced the original teak handrails with and 18" and a 24" rail on each
side. I also installed 9" handrails at the front of the cockpit. They are
thru-bolted and sealed with butyl after filling the hole with epoxy and
thickener. The six rails cost about $120 Canadian. They should be
maintenance free and, I think, look good with the new windows.

Butyl, aside for its excellent qualities as a sealant, is also wonderful to
work with. Given that I do everything a minimum of two times (if I am lucky)
and in the case of the handrail installation, multiple times, it was
remarkably easy to remove the rails and clean up the butyl left behind.
Butyl sticks poorly to everything except itself. As a result you don't need
to mask the area as you can just lift off the butyl that squeezes onto the
deck. To get the tiny bits you can just dab them with a ball of butyl. No
gloves needed. Butyl never hardens so you have no time limits around
installation of cleanup. I can't imagine doing this task with sealant. 

The deck looks white in the photo but actually it is an off-white on the
brown side (System Three Whidby white). 

Next job, if I can get to it before it gets too cold, is to paint the
non-skid areas with Kiwigrip. Then, time permitting, will be the rest of the
deck hardware.

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: September 15, 2015 11:57 AM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Electrical help- nav light anchor light combo

Ted,

The diagram shows that you can hook the light up to a single switch that
will be three positions, Front only, Both, or all off.

This switch would work perfectly.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6Pin-DPDT-ON-OFF-ON-3-Position-Snap-Boat-Rocker-Swit
ch-6A-250V-10A-125V-AC-/291287946050?hash=item43d21d5342

Hook your power to both the center pins. 
Then hook the white wire to 1a and 1b (marked on the side of the switch).
Finally, connect the grey wire to 2b.

Set up this way, the forward light will be lit when the switch is set to the
single dash, and will have both lights lit when the rocker is moved to the
two dash position.

James
1971 Rhodes Continental, Still unnamed.

-----Original Message-----
From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
[mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22 Email
List
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2015 11:50 AM
To: Da List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Electrical help- nav light anchor light combo

So, I am trying to figure out the best way to wire my nav lights and anchor
light. It turns out my factory installed perko masthead light is both a
steaming light and a anchor light. Who knew?!? When I turn on the masthead
light on the circuit panel it only turns on the front steaming light part. 

I always just thought it was just a steaming light. However, it is not wired
with a switch to turn on the rear anchor light. Not to my knowledge anyway.
See perko wiring instructions. 

http://www.perko.com/images/catalog/pdf/Figs%201181&84%20Inst%20(1181INS1).p
df

So I take it I need to wire in a switch to control both?

How do you guys have your setup?

Cheers,
Ted

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__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
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For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/list
__________________________________________________

__________________________________________________
To subscribe/unsubscribe go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

For the list Charter and help with using the mailing list and archives go to
http://www.rhodes22.org/list
__________________________________________________