[Rhodes22-list] 20 year inspection/refit

[Rick]

You must go through the liner to access the lower shroud chain plates.

On Dec 14, 2016 11:26 PM, "Jay Friedland" <jsail1 at verizon.net> wrote:

Mike, Peter, Rick, et al,
All good points-
Rudder pintles & gudgeons, good idea
Actually Stan replaced compression post under the mast, in the cabin early
on, no spider cracks near seats, but elsewhere.
The tiller was original, epoxy sealed, 10 coats of varnish with 2
maintenance coats every year, but time to check
All ports  are non-opening, reset last year
Rear cockpit drain, replaced & refitted, double clamps on all drain,
centerboard pendant drain will get replaced, with new pendant, gasket &
replacement diamond centerboard, etc.
How is it that that cb trunk is spotless, never painted?? Good time to
paint though
The manual lift gave way on the hard, and replaced, but the whole thing
goes to electric now
I have the sealed tank and seems to be working but worth checking

Also the mast block holding the boom has dropped a couple of times, so
would like a 2-pin set up, one on either side

Question- are the chainplates accessible under the liner (not embedded in
glad are they?)

Thanks for the responses.

Jay

> On Dec 14, 2016, at 6:32 PM, Michael Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
>
> Jay,
>
> I would definitely consider the following items:
>
>  1. Replace the wooden tiller with the composite design. The tiller is
often overlooked as a wear item. My old tiller snapped from rot at the
front of the rudder assembly when overpowered in heavy seas and winds. I
jammed what was left of the tiller into the assembly to get home.
>  2. Replace and/or re-bed ports. Replace gaskets and screens on opening
ports.
>  3. Re-bed all deck fittings.
>  4. Replace cockpit drain fitting and hose.  In fact, since the nylon and
gaskets deteriorate after 20-25 years, I recommend replacing all fittings
below the waterline at this time.
>  5. If you haven't already upgraded to the diamond centerboard, now would
be a good time. While the centerboard trunk is open, replace all line and
sheaves as well as the gasket for years of good sailing.  Don't forget to
apply a multi-season antifouling product to the inside of the trunk and the
board.  Check the pennant hose and cam-cleat, replacing as necessary.
>  6. If you still have the original small stern drains in the cockpit
seats, have them replaced with the new, larger drains to avoid clogging in
the future.
>  7. Since you are replacing the motor mount with the electric lift, you
can skip this step. Any of the original gray sliding motor mounts should be
thoroughly inspected for wear and item or the entire assembly replaced.  My
26 year old motor mount failed while under power in 3-4 foot seas.
Fortunately the safety chain saved the engine from a salty grave but I had
to pull the emergency shutdown lanyard to stop the engine from flailing
about.  I put the sails up and tacked onto the mooring in the dark without
the benefit a moon.
>  8. If you have the Rubbermaid container for a fresh water tank, have it
replaced with a poly tank and a pressurized delivery system.  The tank
seals better and the plumbing actually works well. End of the year emptying
is as simple as turning on the sink faucet.
>
> That's just a few of my suggestions.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
>
>
>
>
>
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