[Rhodes22-list] Tex on Centerboard

[The Rhodes 22 Email List]

Patrick
Another consideration.   Do you have one of Stan's custom made drive on trailers?   When Tivo (Stan's man) delivered my boat he cautioned me not to pull it too far forward on the trailer to avoid damaging the centerboard.  The bow stop is adjustable, and got moved around while the trailer was in storage.  Being cautious I didn't load far enough forward when I pulled out for winter layup.     Woops.   Insufficient tongue weight.    When Tivo came back last fall to install a forgotten Bimini, he told me the back of the deck house and grab rail should be about even with a single axle.    The first photo was when the pros loaded it.   The second with the building in back was my bad reloading when the marina closed for the season.  Stan, can you back me up on this??  
I'll defer to Graham on the repair, but have filled hull / cockpit deck voids in the same manner on my old boat.   Your local veterinary clinic can help you out with the big syringes.   
Alex Cole DVMUrbana OHSV Lark 






> Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 11:32:14 -0700
> From: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Marine Tex on Centerboard
> To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Message-ID:
> 	<CAJGJx+Cr_0ERnqogO=aqOyTi3uk0YBNLWyNkqMjQyqMpVtsdDw at mail.gmail.com>
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> 
> Attached (hopefully) are a couple of pictures of the forward edge of my
> centerboard.  This damage has come from banging into the trailer axle I
> guess.  I would like to try to repair with Marine Tex, which I have never
> used.  Any advice?  Maybe after cleaning up the area I should drill a few
> holes and insert toothpicks or SS screws to give the Tex something to hold
> on to?
> 
> -- 
> Patrick Riley
> Lakewood, CO
> S/V Cleone
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> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 15:40:00 -0500
> From: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Marine Tex on Centerboard
> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Message-ID: <00ba01d16a8c$8a16f0e0$9e44d2a0$@ca>
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> 
> Patrick:
> 
> >From the picture I suspect that the damage was caused by more than just
> hitting the trailer. I suspect that the board was structurally weak due to
> large voids inside which may have filled with water. If you have a cold
> climate where you are the water would do a lot of damage as it freezes.
> Tapping the board with something hard should tell you if there are other
> voids and if so, I would definitely fix those first. 
> 
> I had this problem with my rudder and centreboard. The fix that I used for
> the voids was fairly simple. I drilled holes wherever I suspected there
> might be a void. It is best to have more than one hole in each void so that
> when you eject epoxy into one hole the air can escape from the other. If you
> see any sign of moisture I would wait some time to allow the moisture to
> evaporate from inside the board before filling it with epoxy.
> 
> I used a big syringe with a plastic 1/4" tip to pump unthickened epoxy into
> each hole until it came out the neighbouring holes. It is best to drill
> holes that fit the tip of the syringe tightly so you can build a bit of
> pressure to push the epoxy in. You will need to top it up several times as
> the epoxy finds its way down into the board. Once it won't take any more,
> let the epoxy set until it is no longer fluid and then flip the board over
> and do the same on the other side. When I did mine I was really surprised
> how much epoxy I was able to pump into the core. I am sure I injected more
> than a quart. I did the same with my centreboard housing and it took 3
> GALLONS to fill the voids.
> 
> As for the damaged cavity, I would clean out the cavity, make sure it is
> dry, coat the cavity with epoxy and then and fill it in with layers of epoxy
> thickened with high-strength adhesive filler. Epoxy can generate a lot of
> heat as it cures so build the cavity in layers (about 1") but addg each
> layer as soon as it starts to cool. At this point the previous layer will
> stop being tacky but still soft enough to scratch it with your fingernail.
> If you wait until it cures completely, you should grind a coarse surface on
> the old to provide for a mechanical bond.
> 
> Using pins is unnecessary. Toothpicks would be useless. Properly thickened
> epoxy will keep its form without support. Make the batch to the consistency
> of peanut butter.
> 
> Use fairing filler for the final few layers as it is MUCH easier to sand.
> Try to make the two sides of the board as similar as you can.
> 
> I would also be tempted to cover it all with fibreglass as there may be fine
> crals where water could migrate. Finally, I would coat the whole rudder with
> at least four  coats of regular epoxy. You can apply the coats as soon as
> the epoxy will hold properly to the previous coat - about 20 minutes. 
> 
> This is a bit of a nuisance but not difficult to do.
> 
> Grahame
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
>
 		 	   		  
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