[Rhodes22-list] Chainplate access

[The Rhodes 22 Email List]

Graham,

My plate was next to the cabin liner, not the outer fiberglass.  That is, I
believe, always the case whether the plate is straight down the cabin side
or bent across the cabin top.

I had the option of either cutting out a section of liner or a section of
core because of the right angle.  I chose to cut out the core which is more
work, but just as strong and better looking.

Rick

On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 4:46 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Rick:
>
> On my boat the chain plate was positioned between the deck core and the
> inside liner rather than the reverse as you seem to suggest. If they are
> inserting a piece of core to replace what was damaged I would be strongly
> inclined to use epoxy rather than 5200. Epoxy is stronger and if the block
> and surrounding area is completely coated in epoxy it is unlikely that rot
> will ever take hold there. It is also important that the new block be very
> strongly attached to the surrounding core material and epoxy is best for
> that as well. If your boat is like mine was the chain plate is held to the
> core with only one small screw. If the block it is attached to breaks loose
> the chain plate will wobble and water will begin to work its way in through
> the slot in the deck. Actually, because the single screw is so unstable,
> the
> wobbling will probably occur anyway and that is all the more reason to have
> the whole are sealed with epoxy.
>
> My 2 cents worth.
>
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org
> [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of The Rhodes 22
> Email
> List
> Sent: January 7, 2016 3:11 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Chainplate access
>
> Charles,
>
> Sorry, can't really see the sandwiched-in chainplate with cell phone
> quality
> pictures.
>
> I should have said they will replace the block of core supporting the plate
> into which screws will be tapped up through the liner and plate holes.
> Even though there is no rot, they will cut out core to allow space for
> inserting the right angle bend of the plate through the fiberglass slot on
> top.  That is, they will insert and position the plate first, then slide
> the
> new block of core over the bent half of the plate with 3M 5200 along the
> block edges.
>
> Rick
>
> On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 2:26 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > Any pictures?
> >
> >
> >
> > Charles
> >
> > > On Jan 7, 2016, at 1:11 PM, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >
> > > It turns out my '93 has the right angle tang design with 2 screws
> > > holding it to the underside of the cabin top plywood core.  Gained
> > > access by removing the hatch over the head.
> > >
> > > No core rot.  One screw was sheared, probably when the forestay pin
> > failed
> > > 10 years ago.  Since then, the other screw has been slowly tearing
> > through
> > > the wood while the tang re-bent.
> > >
> > > I'm going to have the pros cut out and replace the sliver of core
> > > supporting the block.  They will secure the chainplate with screw
> > > tapped through the liner, hiding them with the hatch cover framing.
> > >
> > > Rick
> > > __
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