[Rhodes22-list] hull-deck join fastening

Thu Jun 16 09:37:51 EDT 2016

Graham
Your quite welcome. 
The 1-1/4” base fits under the stern pulpit bracket on my boat, while the 1-1/2” Taco V11-9795, the one I like better, would have needed to be trimmed around the brackets. Plus, it’s only available in black/black or white/white from the distributors. Stan has  a Red insert for the 9795 base, which looks great on his rebuilds, but it was too costly and too complicated for me to get that look.  
Ric 
Dadventure 
Hamton Bays 

> On Jun 16, 2016, at 8:48 AM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
> Ric:
> 
> Glad I asked. Good advice that is appreciated. I am so tired of learning from my mistakes.
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Ric Stott
> Sent: June 16, 2016 8:24 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hull-deck join fastening
> 
> Nope, it was the 50' #3447. Jamestown distributors, Defender and others carry it.
> I paid $209 for it.  Pay attention to the screw length,head size and tightness.
> You need a shorter SS screw than those supplied with a very flat head. Do not over tighten or the rubber will compress.
> Ric
> Sv Dadventure
> Hampton Bays
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jun 15, 2016, at 8:07 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>> 
>> Ric:
>> So was that the Taco V11-0809BBK50-2 Rub Rail that you installed? And was the 50' kit long enough to go completely around the boat (I measure 55')? I can get it as a kit with a white insert for $301 Canadian. The Tessilmare would be $500.
>> Thanks for your help with this.
>> 
>> Graham
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On 
>> Behalf Of Richard Stott
>> Sent: June 15, 2016 1:58 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hull-deck join fastening
>> 
>> HI Graham
>> The aluminum rub rail was destroyed when the boat broke off its mooring last fall and landed against the rocks on the nearest beach. 
>> The aluminum rail was  corroded and on the list for replacement anyway, but all that fiberglass work was not on the list. 
>> Repairs are complete and the boat will be launched as soon as I get a few parts for the motor - on back order. 
>> I have no worries about screws removing themselves, I hit each screw with a touch of silicone prior to installation and there are more than 100 of them, so if and when the hull separates from the deck, I’ll be separated from this lifetime. Screws are much easier. 
>> The rail you showed looks nice.  I like the two color one though. Stan has been using a different one with a red insert and black base.  It looks great and Stan has the insert but not the base.  By the time I bought things separately, it would have  cost $400, so I opted for the less expensive solution. It looks pretty good .  
>> Ric
>> s/v Dadventure
>> Hampton bays
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 15, 2016, at 1:13 PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Ric:
>>> 
>>> Thanks for the response. That is very helpful and confirms what I thought was the construction of the hull-deck join. 
>>> 
>>> Of course every answer leads to another question: Did you replace the track or just the insert? Why did you switch from rivets to screws? As I understand it, the track and the rivets are integral to the strength of the join and I would worry that screws might work their way out while rivets are much less likely to.
>>> 
>>> I destroyed the aluminium track on my boat in the process of removing it so I have to start from scratch with a new rail and at this point am inclined towards the Tessilmare Radial Flexible Rub Rail (see http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=56893 ). It consists of a flexible track that and a PVC bumper cover. I thought I would use the same method of installation as on the boat originally - attaching the track with rivets or possibly even bolts if I can't find the rivets.
>>> 
>>> Does anyone know what rivets are used now for this purpose. I am thinking that 3/16 aluminium rivets with a grip of about .6" and a flat or countersink head looks about right but would very much appreciate having this confirmed or corrected.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Graham Stewart
>>> Agile. R22, 1976
>>> Kingston Ontario Canada
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On 
>>> Behalf Of Richard Stott
>>> Sent: June 15, 2016 9:26 AM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] hull-deck join fastening
>>> 
>>> The aluminum Rub rail on my ’84 was riveted at 6”o.c.
>>> I just replaced it with a black vinyl/white insert from Defender $209. 50 ft is enough (it stretches) Used SS screws at 6” o.c. but could not use the 1-1/2 screws provided by Tyco because they are too long. 
>>> Ric
>>> s/v Dadventure
>>> Hampton Bays
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __________________________________________________
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>> 
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> __________________________________________________
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Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com