[Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer brakes and adjustments

[Graham Stewart]

Talbot:
My trailer doesn't have brakes and I am on fresh water so I can't advise you
there but it would seem odd to me that no trailer used in salt water has
brakes that can be maintained. I would look into what maintenance is needed.
On the other hand, if you don't do much towing brakes may be unnecessary
depending on the tow vehicle that you use.

It is possible that the tongue jack needs to be greased if it seems
unreasonably difficult to use.

The weight on the tongue should be about 10 to 15% of the total weight of
the trailer and boat. Depending on what you have on board that could easily
add up to well over 3000 pounds so the tongue weight could be pretty
substantial. There are ways to weigh the tongue using bathroom scales. If
your scales do not go that high you can use a lever arrangement to calculate
the weight (see
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-determine-trailer-tongue-weight.aspx )
Weigh the tongue when the boat is on it and if it is within range, about 300
to 400 pounds, leave it alone. If it is off significantly you can adjust the
placement of the boat or also redistribute the weight in the boat. Very
small adjustments can make a big difference to the tongue weight.

Don't put the boat back further on the trailer to lighten the tongue weight
below 10% of the total weight. In that situation you can generate very
severe and dangerous sway. Watch carefully how the trailer tows especially
as you gain speed. If you see any sign of sway slow down until you can move
the boat forward. Sway can kill you. 

Personally, I have found that the problem is to get the boat far enough
forward.

The indentations on the hull by the forward struts of the bunks is
apparently "normal" in older boats. On my boat (76) the indentations appear
to be permanent. I jacked the bow up for two years and the indentations
remained. When I stripped the hull of antifouling paint I found a lattice
work of hairline cracks in the gel coat. Still, the boat is now 40 years old
so I probably should not worry about it. 

Newer boats have thicker hulls and so the problem has apparently been
lessened. I don't know when this change occurred but Stan can tell you.
Whether the indentations remain once the boat is in the water and whether it
really makes a difference anyway is a matter that has been debated on this
forum without resolution. Personally, I have considered reinforcing that
section of the hull after I launch the boat. Hopefully the indents will
disappear first but I doubt it. 

The boat rests on the bunks alone. There is no support needed or desirable
under the keel. You don't want to damage the centerboard housing/keel. I did
and it is a very difficult fix to perform.

I would not advise making changes to the trailer other than fixing the
brakes. These trailers have been used with the Rhodes 22 for many decades
and have stood the test of time. 

Good luck

Graham Stewart
Agile. R22, 1976
Kingston Ontario Canada





-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of
talbotpratt
Sent: June 16, 2016 7:29 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer brakes and adjustments

My new/used 89 Rhodes22 came with a 5 year old Triad custom trailer.  

First, the simple question:  Brakes are rusted and unusable without service,
and I was told it is not worth trying to keep them working since the boat is
launched in salt water.  What do you think? 

Second:   The trailer is the custom built Triad Rhodes 22 model. ei. no
adjustments other than extending the v shaped bow cushion arm that the stem
is snug into.  When the boat was last loaded it appears to have been pulled
up toop far on the trailer.  First, the tongue weight appeared really heavy
based on the effort needed to crank up the swivel wheel and the load when
hitched to a large tow vehicle.  Second, the forward end of the long bunks
was denting the hull on both sides. I put a temporary cross piece in about 6
feet aft of the bow and jacked up several inches to take the load there in
order to pop the dents back out.   I have since launched the boat for the
season but need to figure out how to set up the trailer better before
reloading this fall. 
If I extend to v shaped cushion arm out all the way I can move the boat
about 6-8" farther back on the trailer. That will help some, as the hull
will be a little thinner and less weight will be forward of the bunks.  But
I don't think that will be enough.   Plus, when I look at the trailer, I'm
surprised that ALL the weight is on those two long bunks.  There is nothing
under the keel, nor under the bow section.  I don't understand why it was
done like that.  Anybody with a Triad trailer that can help me?

Talbot
Rhodes22 89/08  "Remains Nameless"



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