[Rhodes22-list] Centerboard cap reattach

[Shawn Boles]

Joe:
Take pictures as you go along. It the big help to those of us who are faced
with this task in the future.

With respect to evoked imagery -perhaps more salacious than ribald
Cheers,
Shawn
s/v Sweet Baboo

On Apr 29, 2017 11:55 AM, "Joe Camp via Rhodes22-list" <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Gary & Graham:
>      Thanks for this worldly and simple advice.  I will follow it and
> leave the sole open to detect any leaks. If they are small enough, the
> bilge pump should handle them till I get back to her. Mostly I will follow
> the tightening advice, because (in the words of Cap'n Ron) "...boat's like
> a woman; responds to touch,"  I could get dirty here, in fact some sludge
> talk is almost demanded by the standards of the old cop I used to be; but
> retirement has softened me a great deal.  However, just so you know, I am
> getting aroused thinking about what I would have said.  The word you're
> looking for is probably "ribald." Now, I'm an English professor.  We are
> not allowed to think dirty, but we do.  I can even tell you the origins of
> the "F" word. Though I am not allowed to use it regularly.  ttfn
> Joe Camp
> s/v John Dawson
> Bohemia River, MD
>
>
>       From: Gary via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>  To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>  Sent: Friday, April 28, 2017 10:51 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard cap reattach
>
> Hello Mr. Joe,
>
> Recently  I removed my "Diamond Board" and did some repairs on it.  Doing
> so
> required me to remove the 4,387 bolts, nuts and washers that seal the
> diamond board cap.  The rubber is quite thick and playable and was still in
> great shape.  Just take your time, clean both the flange in the bottom of
> the boat, the fiberglass cap flange, and both sides of the thick rubber
> gasket.  Then, start slowly tightening the bolts and nuts from the center
> (measured from fore and aft of the cap) Just seat (just a bit of pressure
> on
> your socket and wrench) and then work crosswise from the center point of
> the
> cap working back and forth (port then starboard) in an x pattern.  Then
> re-trace your initial steps, and do it again, tightening the nuts, bolts
> and
> washers port, starboard, all the while with each tightening working equally
> fore and aft, port and starboard.
> My boat was 27 years old and the rubber gasket was fine.
> If my explanation is to confusing, just look up " how to tighten up a
> gasket" as a google search and you will get the idea.
> P.S. If there are missing washers or cross threaded bolts/nuts, suggest
> replacing them with good S/S hardware.  Please insure you do use S/S
> washers
> to assist in distributing the pressure on the cap so as to not crush the
> immediate fiberglass area if you only use a nut or bolt without the washer.
> No need to use sealant. Another tip is not to over torque the nuts and
> bolts.  Just firm or snug.  No monster tightening is required.  If you do
> this it will warp the flanges and induce a leak.  If after you float your
> boat and you spot a leak just add a 1/4 turn on the bolts near the leak at
> a
> time.  Do this till the leak stops.  More than likely, you won't have to do
> this.
>
>
>
> -----
> Gary
> s/v Just Bent
> '90 Rhodes 22
> (recycled 2001)
> Sun City, AZ
> --
> View this message in context: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.
> nabble.com/Centerboard-cap-reattach-tp53112p53114.html
> Sent from the Rhodes 22 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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