[Rhodes22-list] Cockpit Waterproofing response to Mike

[thebooker]

Jay,

We're in very close agreement on the 175. 

First, I'm in my 70's and now want my sailing as pain and drama free as
possible. With my roller furling 130 jib, roller furling main, motor lift
(for my 22 lb Torqeedo - so heavy 22 lb) this goal is 95% achieved.
Installing a tiller pilot will bring me to sailing nirvana. I can bike right
up to my boat slip in 5 minutes and love getting away from dock as fast as
any motor boater. 

Second, I sailed with a 175 just enough to know that life for me is too
short to be constantly dealing with a sail so big and heavy and that, in my
area, can be fully unfurled roughly 10% of the time. 

I tried a smaller, non furling jib for one season - from an Etchells 22, 100
or 110%. I loved it. The boat went very well upwind and off wind and tacked
quickly and easily (I also single hand most of the time). The two things I
didn't like were (1) having to stuff it in a deck bag after sailing (bent
over for several minutes is a back killer) and (2) in higher winds I had to
deal with an overpowered boat or take it down. Even in light winds, the very
clean leading edge (just a wire) seemed to give back a lot of the power loss
due to smaller area. 

Gary Hoyt says the clean leading edge can make a jib 40% more powerful than
a main the same area because of turbulence caused by the mast. Doesn't take
much imagination to view a partially furled 175 as a sail behind a mast to
me. This makes me wonder if my unfurled 100% jib was delivering more like a
175 furled to 130 size. No question that the furled sail reduces
effectiveness of unfurled part.

Also, from my brief exposure to aerodynamics I learned that a circular cross
section (like a mast or partially furled jib) has 10 times the wind
resistance of an airfoil of same thickness. 

My compromise was a 130 furling from Stan. Can sail unfurled in higher winds
than 175 and, when furled to same area, have a smaller roll at leading edge.
I also think the dacron is a bit lighter than 175 and that, combined the
smaller sail area makes it quite a bit lighter.  I'm adding thin white,
split tubing that just fits around shrouds to reduce friction when tacking.

Previous owner also bought a Univera Power Sail (nylon, roller furling
genoa) which I can hook up very quickly. I have jib sheets attached with a
soft shackle I made (an interesting project) which lets me quickly switch
jib sheets to UPS if I want. Does not point for beans but great for reaches
and broad reaches.

*************************************************************

Now, your cockpit. (My Nonsuch 30 was considered unsuitable for blue water
almost solely because of  its large, seat-a-crowd cockpit with insufficient
drainage.) 

I think you should think about ventilation for cabin and rear lazzrerette if
you block the underseat openings. I suspect they help keep R22's mildew and
mold free.  So, maybe design them to be fairly easily removed when not
needed. Or to take one of those 4" diameter circular screw in deck hole
thingamabobs (I love nautical talk) Yes!  

If you do block them, I agree you need drainage. I'm thinking two, say 4"
diameter pipes going through lazzerette on either side, level with cockpit
floor, and under seats would dump a lot of water fast. Don't know what
material would work best with fiberglass. Thinking more, you may want them
nearer the centerline so if knocked down, they don't fill rather than drain
the cockpit. In fact, you may want a one-way valve in each - at least a flap
on outside. 

Safe fun sailing whatever you do!  Keep us posted.

Brooks






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Brooks Bridges
1986, Recycled 2006 "Changes"
Cambridge, MD
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