[Rhodes22-list] Agile's interior

Sun Oct 14 22:27:30 EDT 2018

Graham,
What a beautiful job.  So much of your work is "hidden" but it doesn't make
it any less beautiful.  An inspiration.
Thanks

On Fri, Oct 12, 2018 at 10:24 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:

> I thought I sent the final update on my Rhodes 22 interior rebuild last
> June
> but so far as I can tell I just sent it to myself. So I am sending it out
> again. My apologies if this is a duplicate.
> Graham
> _____
>
>
> A long time ago I was asked to post pictures of Agile's interior when it
> was
> completed. Well I have finally finished the interior and can post those
> pictures.
>
> There is nothing fancy about the interior. Certainly nothing like the
> amazing carpentry of Peter Nyberg. My goal was to be efficient, cheap and
> as
> maintenance free as possible. There are a few bits of teak - mostly left
> over from my previous install but all surfaces now are white Formica
> cladding over the original or replacement plywood. Much of the trim is
> aluminum and PVC.
>
> As I mentioned before, I shortened the galley by about 8" in order to
> install a hanging locker. I use it for safety vests and rain gear but
> occasionally a garment bag with good clothes when we are cruising and want
> to get dressed up a bit.
>
> Instead of an ice box built in to the counter I use a portable cooler that
> sits between the seat and the locker in front of the companion way. This
> works very well for me. The cooler is quite large, portable, provides a
> step
> into the boat, takes up previously unused space and, as it unexpectedly
> turned out,  also serves to hold the companionway doors in front of the
> galley storage drawers when underway. That locations turns out to be very
> convenient, takes up no space and also serves to keep the galley drawers
> closed when on a port heel.
>
> For water I found a 23L (6 gal) jerry can that just fits under the sink. I
> installed a deck fill for water but have not connected it to the tank. It
> is
> easier for me to take the tank to the water than bring water to the tank
> but
> the deck fill is there when or if I or a subsequent owner needs it. On my
> boat the holding tank deck outlet was within a foot of the potable water
> deck fill on the starboard side deck. I was very uncomfortable with that
> arrangement so when I rebuilt the deck and replaced the holding tank I
> moved
> the tank outlet to the other side (port) of the boat.
>
> The drawers are just plastic drawer units that I bought for $35. It will be
> interesting to see if they last  more than a few days. They come in a unit
> of three drawers and that was too high to fit so I cut off the bottom
> drawer
> and put in a spacer that gives me a 4" space under the unit which, as it
> turns out, is just the right size to store my portable three burner propane
> stove. We never cook down below so using a propane stove is not a problem
> and using a portable stove saves space on the galley counter.
>
> The floor is completely rebuilt from the hull up. The old stringers were in
> bad shape and the structure under the compression post was crushed and
> rotted so I had to replace everything. The new stringers are made of
> pressure treated pine 5/4" deck boards that have been encapsulated in
> multiple coatings of epoxy. The floor sits on the stringers and on aluminum
> angle pieces running the length of the cabin at the base of the side seats
> and under the galley. It is bolted down to the stringers using metal insert
> nuts and to the aluminum rails using aluminum insert nuts. Previously wood
> screws were used and over the years the screw holes became enlarged or
> worse
> and the floor boards were always loose. Hopefully this arrangement will
> address that problem.
>
> The floor itself is 1/2" interior grade plywood that I coated in several
> coats of epoxy and painted with a marine grade paint. The top is covered
> with a vinyl cushion floor that is attached with contact cement. It should
> be very low maintenance and nom-skid. It also brightens the interior
> considerably from the dark stained wood that was there before. It has gone
> through one severe winter and there are no signs that the cushion floor is
> lifting - so far. There was some discussion on the list about whether 1/2"
> floor boards would be adequate. I have found it to be quite adequate with
> no
> sense that they are soft. Maybe the 3/4" boards would be better if the
> people using the boat are much heavier that Deb and I. The advantage of the
> thinner boards is that they are lighter and much easier to manhandle when
> they need to be removed. Also, at 6'3" I appreciate every fraction of an
> inch of head space.
>
> I put the electrical panel on the main bulkhead. It is really unused space
> and makes it very easy to service the panel from the back. I added a small
> unit I got from Amazon that provides a power outlet that I use to trickle
> charge the battery with a small portable solar charger. It also has two USB
> charging outlets and a voltmeter. I really like being able to monitor the
> battery charge so easily. Instruments and lights are the only items that
> draw power and I replaced all lights with LEDs. I decided that all I really
> need is a little garden tractor battery. I used big deep discharge
> batteries
> before but found that inevitably they were shot after a few years. I am
> hoping that with the low draw and ability to monitor its state that this
> inexpensive battery will suffice. We will see.
>
> Window frames are made of PVC trim pieces.
>
> In the final analysis the interior is a pretty bare bones interior but the
> boat being a 1976 has always been a modest boat and does not justify going
> to great expanse to refurbish. Lord knows I have already spent lots on it.
> I
> did splurge on new interior cushions as the old ones were utterly shot.
> That
> spruces things up a lot. The hull interior, where exposed, is covered with
> indoor/outdoor carpeting.
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile. R22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario Canada
>
>
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