[Rhodes22-list] Floor Board Removal and Repair

Mon Apr 15 12:03:12 EDT 2019

Rob,

I forgot to mention one more thing you should check while you have the CB cap off.  The centerboard should have some large (~6” OD) Teflon “washers” around the CB pivot on each side.  These Teflon washers keep the centerboard centered in the CB well and limit the side-to-side centerboard play so the centerboard does not rub on the inside of the CB well.  These Teflon washers may be worn or missing and need replacing.  If your centerboard &/or the CB well shows scratches or worn areas along the sides; then, these Teflon washers are a very likely root cause.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 15, 2019, at 11:34 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Rob,
> 
> The main reason I like to use 2 layers of sealant + a gasket has to do with loading and hull flex when the boat is sitting on the trailer vs when it’s in the water.  The chances are, the boat will be on the trailer when the CB cap is installed.  I like having 2 silicone RTV joints + the rubber gasket to absorb the shear loading in the CB flange/CB gasket joint when the hull flexes differently when it goes from the trailer into the water.  There are similar issues with hull flex when the boat is pounding to weather in waves.  As long as the silicone RTV is kept loaded in compression by the flange joint, it has sufficient elasticity to absorb the shear deformation from hull flex and not leak.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilbrium
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 15, 2019, at 11:00 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I’m a belt and suspenders kind of guy!  A leak down there is a major issue when the boat is in the water.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> 
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Lowe, Rob <rlowe at vt.edu>
>> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2019 10:57:47 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Floor Board Removal and Repair
>> 
>> Roger,
>> I see you are using sealant, but we know Stan would take issue with that as he does not recommend sealant. - rob
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA
>> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2019 10:54 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Floor Board Removal and Repair
>> 
>> JP,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> When you remove the CB cap, you should find a rubber gasket between it and the CB trunk.  If you are very careful when you pry off the cap, you may be able to salvage the gasket.  If not, don't worry.  Simply purchase a sheet of 1/8" thick red rubber gasket material at the hardware store and use the old gasket as a template.  If you completely ruin the gasket; then, use the CB cap as a template.  As Stan noted, there should be a fender washer above and below the flange to spread the load to minimize distortion and prevent leaks.  I like using nylock lock nuts vs standard nuts and lock washers, although they will have to be replaced every time you remove the CB cap.  But, they absolutely will not come loose on their own.  If the existing bolts look at all questionable, it's cheap insurance to replace them.  When I put my CB cap back together, I spread a thin layer of clear silicone RTV aquarium sealer on the CB flange, set the gasket in place, spread more Silicone RTV onto the
>> gasket, and then place the CB cap into place.  Make certain silicone RTV squeezes out all around the CB cap and into the bolt holes.  If the bolt holes don't fill up with silicone RTV; then, add some silicone RTV to each bolt hole before you drop the bolts into the holes.  Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern, like you are torqueing a cylinder head.  Don't turn the bolts when you are tightening them.  Instead, hold the bolt still with a wrench and turn only the nut with another wrench.  This will give the silicone RTV a much better chance of bonding to the bolt shaft and sealing off the bolt holes.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> While you have the CB cap off, you should inspect the CB pivot and the anchor point for the CB pennant.  If there is XS play in either, you should fix that issue before reassembly.  Also, there should be a short length of hose that the CB pennant runs thru from the CB to the cockpit bridgedeck.  Inspect that hose and replace if worn.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> 
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of JP Dempsey <joedempsey at hughes.net>
>> Sent: Monday, April 15, 2019 10:12:56 AM
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Floor Board Removal and Repair
>> 
>> Richard, yes, they're not nautical blocks but cubicle blocks!  This all began looking for source of bilge water. I do plan to remove the CB cap because of the rusted bolts.  Photos attached. Also there are supposed to be fender washers above and below according to Stan. As you can see, there are no washers.  I've removed all of the bolts but have not lifted the cap yet.
>> 
>> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Cover_w_Pump.jpg>
>> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Cover_Rust.jpg>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----
>> JP Dempsey
>> s/v Respite
>> Rhodes 22 1989/2005
>> Marshall,VA
>> --
>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/
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