[Rhodes22-list] Trailering with outboard

Fri Dec 6 16:04:51 EST 2019

Graham,

You’re welcome.  I have 25+ years and many thousands of trailering miles on my anti sway damper.  I actually wore the friction material out in my 1st unit and am now on my 2nd one.  You get a loud scraping sound like worn out disk brake pads when you turn or the trailer sways when its time to replace the anti sway damper.  They are not rebuildable.  But, the cost of a new unit is so low that buying a new one is not much of an issue.  The ball joints on each end of the damper don’t seem to wear out.

My ball joints and the associated brackets are welded on.  25 years ago, when I 1st installed the anti sway damper, welding was the only option.  But, I see new units can be bolted on.  My trailer tongue needed a special bracket in order to provide clearance for the trailer’s surge brake master cylinder.  Assuming you have this work done by a welding shop, you will still have only ~$125 sunk into the installation. That’s pretty cheap trailering insurance!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

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From: Graham Stewart<mailto:gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
Sent: Friday, December 6, 2019 3:03 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailering with outboard

Roger: That is very helpful feedback on the anti-sway device. I always wondered about those things. I think they would be well worth the modest price.
Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA
Sent: Friday, December 6, 2019 12:43 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailering with outboard

Hi All,

S/V Dynamic Equilibrium’s trailer has had an anti sway damper mounted on the trailer hitch for 25+ years.  The below attached picture shows this anti sway damper available from Harbor Freight.  The device mounts between the tow bar hitch on the tow vehicle and the trailer tongue.  The black body has friction material (i.e. brake pads) that clamps down on the silver part on the right.  Clamping pressure is adjusted by turning the black handle on the top of the black body.  The silver part is attached via a small extra ball joint on the tow bar alongside of the main hitch ball on the trailer hitch.  The black body is attached to the trailer tongue via another ball joint alongside of the hitch.  As the trailer sways, the silver part slides in and out of the black body.  The clamped friction material turns the rotational momentum of the trailer into heat, thus damping out the swaying.  This is absolutely the solution to worry free trailering!  It completely eliminates trailer swaying due to crosswinds, semi truck shock waves, sudden turns, road hazards, tire failure, etc.  It even helps prevent swaying if there is insufficient tongue weight, although it is still good practice to have at least 10% of the trailer weight on the tongue.  It turns trailering into a relaxing experience.

[cid:image003.png at 01D5AC32.A4FCC970]

The only downside, is that you must remember to remove the anti sway damper before close quarters maneuvering in the boat yard or at the launch ramp.  The anti sway device does not tolerate being jack knifed if the trailer must be turned very sharply.  Normally, this is not an issue; but, you need to be aware of the anti sway device before attempting a sharp turn.

I was able to move S/V Dynamic Equilibrium sufficiently far forward on my trailer such that the rudder and outboard motor can be left in place while trailering.  Raising the motor to the top of the mount and lashing it in place prevents movement.  There’s enough “stuff” to rig and unrig while trailering without having to mess around with the motor and the rudder.

Here’s a weight distribution tip: The 15 gallon water tank weighs ~125 lbs when full.  This tank is up in the bow under the V-berth.  So, if you are having issues with insufficient tongue weight, try filling the water tank.

I don’t recommend trailering with anything in the holding tank.  Although it would add more tongue weight, there is too much risk of a nasty, smelly spill due to sloshing!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

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From: Mitch Mitchell<mailto:mitchpadl at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, December 6, 2019 8:44 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailering with outboard

That’s a great idea Bob!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 5, 2019, at 10:12 PM, Goodness <spreadgoodnews at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Mitch:  I never trail an outboard long distance without a “motor toter” or better yet removing it from the transom.  Repairs to the transom are costly and time consuming.  Motors are expensive.  The bouncing adds tremendous aging to your motormount.
> A nice solution i have for my trailer is a welded on motormount between the hitch and winch.  It wont work for every trailer but the cockpit holds a 9.8 long shaft perfectly.
> I have a nice collection of roadside sailing gear.  (Mainsail and boom for a common 18 foot boat in perfect condition, a rudder and tiller, a brand new diesel 5 gallon fuel can, a collapsible canvas bucket, a brand new 3 gallon gasoline can.). Arrive alive and preferably with all of your boat and equipment!
> Good luck!
>
> Bob (palatka)
>
>> On Dec 5, 2019, at 1:17 PM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for all of the replies. I've driven the trailer on the highway and
>> sway has not been a problem but I've always taken the motor and rudder off
>> and put them in the truck. I'll definitely tie the motor to the railing and
>> I like the idea of also running a strap from the two eyes  to under the
>> motor. I will try both. If anyone finds an 8hp Merc on I-95 please let me
>> know.  Thanks! MM
>> BTW I've only launched the boat a few times since I haven't had it long and
>> the last time I was bound and determined to get her all the way up on the
>> trailer but to no avail. It seems to have something to do with the ramp
>> angle. I'll check the archives to see if I can learn some tricks for that.
>>
>>> On Thu, Dec 5, 2019 at 1:05 PM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Yikes!
>>>
>>> On Wed, Dec 4, 2019 at 10:17 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have done very little towing but the one time I did I was almost
>>>> dragged off the road due to trailer sway. Very scary! I discovered that
>>>> there was insufficient weight on the tongue but also that it was very
>>>> difficult to move the boat any further forward. If I were to go on a longer
>>>> trip I would measure the weight under the tongue once the boat was packed
>>>> and if less than 10% of the total either move weight forward in the cabin
>>>> or remove the motor from the stern.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
>>>> Kingston Ontario
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On
>>>> Behalf Of Art Czerwonky via Rhodes22-list
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, December 4, 2019 9:50 PM
>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailering with outboard
>>>>
>>>> Mitch, What year Rhodes. I originally had a '76, and even with a
>>>> backplate was uneasy on the road.Art
>>>>
>>>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Dec 4, 2019 at 8:55 PM, Mitch Mitchell<mitchpadl at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:   I’m planning on taking a long road trip with my R22 and wondering
>>>> if those of you who tow do so with an outboard attached to the stern. I
>>>> have an 8hp 2 stroke Merc and a 30 year old mount (image attached). This is
>>>> my first trip with this boat and am picturing myself on I 95 with the motor
>>>> dragging along behind me. I will be towing with a truck camper so nowhere
>>>> to put motor if not on stern. Any suggestions or views would be appreciated,
>>>>
>>>> Mitch
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