[Rhodes22-list] Replacing Centerboard Gasket

[Graham Stewart]

Mitch:

Replacing the gasket is not difficult but is a major PITA. Any reconstruction of the cap or flange is also a possibility and adds to the pain. Good idea to check it out in the water before you take it all apart. 

Eventually, however, it will probably be necessary to do this job if for no other reason than to replace the line and pulleys.
On my boat the removal of the cap was made infinitely worse by virtue of the fact that some previous owner used 5200 sealant and then put fiberglass over the top of the cap. As a result I broke the cap in two pieces getting it off and damaged the housing flange with large gouges. Hopefully you will not face that issue. No one else has reported a similar problem on this list that I have seen.

I would replace the screws with stainless steel bolts and use large fender washers and lock washers.I think it is better to punch clean holes in the gasket rather than drilling them.

I did not think I had access to the proper gasket material and substituted other neoprene material that I thought would work.  As a result I could not get a perfect seal without using a sealant. I chose to use butyl tape as it makes an excellent seal but has very low adhesive properties and so is easy to remove when the time comes. Butyl is not rated for underwater use but so far has worked well for me in fresh water. Better to get the proper gasket material.

BTW, I was able to remove the cap and the centerboard while the boat was on its trailer and have not heard of others needing to raise the boat for that purpose but keep in mind that there appears to be a lot of variation in the construction of the boat over the years and what works for one person might not work in another situation. My boat is a 1976 model so it has the older version of the centerboard. However, I would try to do the work while on the trailer first and raise the boat only if that becomes necessary.

While removing the centerboard and fixing the enclosure cap and flange could be done while on the trailer, I discovered that I had serious damage to the bottom of the keel housing with a large crack that went almost entirely around the housing slot. So in the end I had to build a huge lift so that I could work under the keel. My lift was a major project in itself and probably overkill as I later learned that one person was able to support the stern of the boat on a picnic table and support the front with some sort of sawhorse arrangement. So there are definitely easier ways to do this than what I did. The advantage of the lift is that I can raise the boat high enough (5' between the bottom of the keel and the ground) to work more comfortably under the keel and can also use it for my other two boats. However, it is a very large structure. I can send pictures of the lift if anyone is interested.


Graham Stewart
Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
Kingston Ontario



-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Mitch Mitchell
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 10:34 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing Centerboard Gasket

Thanks JP! Did you have to lower the centerboard to replace the gasket? If
that' the case then I would have to get the boat off of the trailer. The
screws in the cap look good (not rusty) but there are no washers. I haven't
removed the top cap yet but thought I would put the boat in the water once
more with the floorboard out so I could see if it was leaking. MM

On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 7:14 PM JP Dempsey <joedempsey at hughes.net> wrote:

> Mitch, I had the same problem last year and finally determined that the
> centerboard gasket was the problem. They dry rot eventually. It is a
> "fairly" simple job that I ended up doing myself, but you'll have to
> purchase a new gasket. I would have purchased from Stan but the centerboard
> trunk cover was cracked and needed repair that I was not willing to
> attempt.
> Also you want to be sure that you drill holes that will match the existing
> holes in you CB trunk flange and cover. I have a large collection of photos
> that I took during the process. Removal of the trunk cover begins with
> removing the port berth/settee and the supporting structure in front of the
> companionway. You'll need to remove the center section of the floorboard
> (sole) that runs from the inspection hatch back to beneath the
> companionway.
> (I removed all of the floorboards and found that they were severely molded.
> These I replaced with new marine plywood treated with wood preservative and
> multiple coats of urethane marine varnish.) You will need to lower the CB.
> I
> placed a block of wood underneath. Also you'll have to remove the painter
> tube between the companionway and the CB cover. If there is any rust on the
> machine screws, replace them. McMaster-Carr is the best source. Use only
> 316
> grade stainless steel. Also if your CB gasket is not fastened using fender
> washers (mine wasn't) get them for both above and below the flange. I did
> all of this work while on the trailer during the off season. I believe its
> also wise to re-seat all of the port lites and  if you ever replace the rub
> rail, re-caulk the topside/hull joint with 4200 Sealant. I'm attaching
> photos that I hope will help.
> <
> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/Cabin_Sole_Original_Sub_Floor_Before.jpg>
>
> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Cover_w_Pump.jpg>
> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Gasket.jpg>
> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/Bilge_2_After.jpg>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----
> JP Dempsey
> s/v Respite
> Rhodes 22 1989/2005
> Marshall,VA
> --
> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/
>