[Rhodes22-list] Replacing Centerboard Gasket

Mon Sep 30 10:44:39 EDT 2019

Boy do I have a gasket/cap project!
The attached photo shows what can happen  when the boat is launched with the Center Board line not cleated. 
Here is the story - and I’m sticking to it. 
I have had my ’84 Continental since I inherited it from my dad who bought it used in ’89. 
I have re-bult most of the interior and I use the boat a lot. 
For 6 years I’ve had it hauled and lunched professionally back and forth to my driveway. 
This year I finally completed that trailer rebuild project and hauled it for the first time on the rebuilt trailer. 
Everything went smoothly until the boat was out and I was not happy with the balance on the trailer. 
I decided to re-lauch and move the boat further toward the trailer tongue.
While the boat was out, I asked my helper to release the ‘red’ line on the bulkhead - I was going to begin de-rigging and roll up the jib fuller, but got distracted with the boat position. .
I meant the jib fuller, but my helper ( good sailer, but not familiar with the boat)  released the CB cleat (also red) which I didn’t realize. 
When we relaunched, the boat slid nicely off the trailer and into the shallow water at the ramp.
The CB deployed as the boat was moving backward - and hit the shallow bottom. 

Before we realized what happened, we had the boat back on the trailer.
Something was odd, but I didn’t know what. 
When we pulled it the 2nd time, the trailer tires looked flat and the trailer seemed even more unbalanced - it was also pouring water from the boat. 
I climbed on and discovered the CB popping through the CB trunk cap and water had filled the boat to the a few inches over the cabin sole floor.
We had managed to ‘sink’ Dadventure, right on its new trailer.   
Flooded the pull-out storage box, my tool box, multi-meter and lots of stuff that doesn’t like to be wet.
It broke  the 3/4” plywood sole cover in the process, which is an easy fix - the cap - not so much.
What a mess!

I was considering replacing my original CB with a Diamond Board - maybe now is the time. 
Can anyone explain the pros/cons of such a change? 
Can I get a new cap from Stan or do I have to rebuild one myself? 

I can tell you with certainty that the same thing will never happen again, but this is a major repair that I didn’t expect. 
Ric
 sv Dadventure 

Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
www.stottarchitecture.com
Office	631-283-1777
Cell		516-965-3164 

> On Sep 30, 2019, at 9:56 AM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Wow! Thanks for the info. Sounds like that was quite a project. Hopefully
> all I will need to do is replace the gasket. I like the idea of bolts and
> washers.
> 
> On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 12:18 AM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
>> Mitch:
>> 
>> Replacing the gasket is not difficult but is a major PITA. Any
>> reconstruction of the cap or flange is also a possibility and adds to the
>> pain. Good idea to check it out in the water before you take it all apart.
>> 
>> Eventually, however, it will probably be necessary to do this job if for
>> no other reason than to replace the line and pulleys.
>> On my boat the removal of the cap was made infinitely worse by virtue of
>> the fact that some previous owner used 5200 sealant and then put fiberglass
>> over the top of the cap. As a result I broke the cap in two pieces getting
>> it off and damaged the housing flange with large gouges. Hopefully you will
>> not face that issue. No one else has reported a similar problem on this
>> list that I have seen.
>> 
>> I would replace the screws with stainless steel bolts and use large fender
>> washers and lock washers.I think it is better to punch clean holes in the
>> gasket rather than drilling them.
>> 
>> I did not think I had access to the proper gasket material and substituted
>> other neoprene material that I thought would work.  As a result I could not
>> get a perfect seal without using a sealant. I chose to use butyl tape as it
>> makes an excellent seal but has very low adhesive properties and so is easy
>> to remove when the time comes. Butyl is not rated for underwater use but so
>> far has worked well for me in fresh water. Better to get the proper gasket
>> material.
>> 
>> BTW, I was able to remove the cap and the centerboard while the boat was
>> on its trailer and have not heard of others needing to raise the boat for
>> that purpose but keep in mind that there appears to be a lot of variation
>> in the construction of the boat over the years and what works for one
>> person might not work in another situation. My boat is a 1976 model so it
>> has the older version of the centerboard. However, I would try to do the
>> work while on the trailer first and raise the boat only if that becomes
>> necessary.
>> 
>> While removing the centerboard and fixing the enclosure cap and flange
>> could be done while on the trailer, I discovered that I had serious damage
>> to the bottom of the keel housing with a large crack that went almost
>> entirely around the housing slot. So in the end I had to build a huge lift
>> so that I could work under the keel. My lift was a major project in itself
>> and probably overkill as I later learned that one person was able to
>> support the stern of the boat on a picnic table and support the front with
>> some sort of sawhorse arrangement. So there are definitely easier ways to
>> do this than what I did. The advantage of the lift is that I can raise the
>> boat high enough (5' between the bottom of the keel and the ground) to work
>> more comfortably under the keel and can also use it for my other two boats.
>> However, it is a very large structure. I can send pictures of the lift if
>> anyone is interested.
>> 
>> 
>> Graham Stewart
>> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
>> Kingston Ontario
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf
>> Of Mitch Mitchell
>> Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 10:34 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing Centerboard Gasket
>> 
>> Thanks JP! Did you have to lower the centerboard to replace the gasket? If
>> that' the case then I would have to get the boat off of the trailer. The
>> screws in the cap look good (not rusty) but there are no washers. I haven't
>> removed the top cap yet but thought I would put the boat in the water once
>> more with the floorboard out so I could see if it was leaking. MM
>> 
>> On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 7:14 PM JP Dempsey <joedempsey at hughes.net> wrote:
>> 
>>> Mitch, I had the same problem last year and finally determined that the
>>> centerboard gasket was the problem. They dry rot eventually. It is a
>>> "fairly" simple job that I ended up doing myself, but you'll have to
>>> purchase a new gasket. I would have purchased from Stan but the
>> centerboard
>>> trunk cover was cracked and needed repair that I was not willing to
>>> attempt.
>>> Also you want to be sure that you drill holes that will match the
>> existing
>>> holes in you CB trunk flange and cover. I have a large collection of
>> photos
>>> that I took during the process. Removal of the trunk cover begins with
>>> removing the port berth/settee and the supporting structure in front of
>> the
>>> companionway. You'll need to remove the center section of the floorboard
>>> (sole) that runs from the inspection hatch back to beneath the
>>> companionway.
>>> (I removed all of the floorboards and found that they were severely
>> molded.
>>> These I replaced with new marine plywood treated with wood preservative
>> and
>>> multiple coats of urethane marine varnish.) You will need to lower the
>> CB.
>>> I
>>> placed a block of wood underneath. Also you'll have to remove the painter
>>> tube between the companionway and the CB cover. If there is any rust on
>> the
>>> machine screws, replace them. McMaster-Carr is the best source. Use only
>>> 316
>>> grade stainless steel. Also if your CB gasket is not fastened using
>> fender
>>> washers (mine wasn't) get them for both above and below the flange. I did
>>> all of this work while on the trailer during the off season. I believe
>> its
>>> also wise to re-seat all of the port lites and  if you ever replace the
>> rub
>>> rail, re-caulk the topside/hull joint with 4200 Sealant. I'm attaching
>>> photos that I hope will help.
>>> <
>>> 
>> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/Cabin_Sole_Original_Sub_Floor_Before.jpg
>>> 
>>> 
>>> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Cover_w_Pump.jpg>
>>> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Gasket.jpg>
>>> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/Bilge_2_After.jpg>
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -----
>>> JP Dempsey
>>> s/v Respite
>>> Rhodes 22 1989/2005
>>> Marshall,VA
>>> --
>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/
>>> 
>> 
>> 