[Rhodes22-list] Replacing Centerboard Gasket

Mon Sep 30 11:22:04 EDT 2019

Thanks Mary Lou!
I’ll ring ‘im up.

Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
www.stottarchitecture.com
Office	631-283-1777
Cell		516-965-3164 

> On Sep 30, 2019, at 11:11 AM, Mary Lou Troy <mtroy at atlanticbb.net> wrote:
> 
> Ric,
> So sorry to hear about your misadventure. In the past GB has been able to provide replacement centerboard caps. I remember at an Annapolis gathering one year one of the attendees walking around with his brand new cap from Stan. I would try to contact him first.
> Best of luck,
> Mary Lou
> 
> On 9/30/2019 10:44 AM, Richard Stott wrote:
>> Boy do I have a gasket/cap project!
>> The attached photo shows what can happen  when the boat is launched with the Center Board line not cleated.
>> Here is the story - and I’m sticking to it.
>> I have had my ’84 Continental since I inherited it from my dad who bought it used in ’89.
>> I have re-bult most of the interior and I use the boat a lot.
>> For 6 years I’ve had it hauled and lunched professionally back and forth to my driveway.
>> This year I finally completed that trailer rebuild project and hauled it for the first time on the rebuilt trailer.
>> Everything went smoothly until the boat was out and I was not happy with the balance on the trailer.
>> I decided to re-lauch and move the boat further toward the trailer tongue.
>> While the boat was out, I asked my helper to release the ‘red’ line on the bulkhead - I was going to begin de-rigging and roll up the jib fuller, but got distracted with the boat position. .
>> I meant the jib fuller, but my helper ( good sailer, but not familiar with the boat)  released the CB cleat (also red) which I didn’t realize.
>> When we relaunched, the boat slid nicely off the trailer and into the shallow water at the ramp.
>> The CB deployed as the boat was moving backward - and hit the shallow bottom.
>> 
>> Before we realized what happened, we had the boat back on the trailer.
>> Something was odd, but I didn’t know what.
>> When we pulled it the 2nd time, the trailer tires looked flat and the trailer seemed even more unbalanced - it was also pouring water from the boat.
>> I climbed on and discovered the CB popping through the CB trunk cap and water had filled the boat to the a few inches over the cabin sole floor.
>> We had managed to ‘sink’ Dadventure, right on its new trailer.
>> Flooded the pull-out storage box, my tool box, multi-meter and lots of stuff that doesn’t like to be wet.
>> It broke  the 3/4” plywood sole cover in the process, which is an easy fix - the cap - not so much.
>> What a mess!
>> 
>> I was considering replacing my original CB with a Diamond Board - maybe now is the time.
>> Can anyone explain the pros/cons of such a change?
>> Can I get a new cap from Stan or do I have to rebuild one myself?
>> 
>> I can tell you with certainty that the same thing will never happen again, but this is a major repair that I didn’t expect.
>> Ric
>>  sv Dadventure
>> 
>> Richard Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> www.stottarchitecture.com
>> Office	631-283-1777
>> Cell		516-965-3164
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sep 30, 2019, at 9:56 AM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Wow! Thanks for the info. Sounds like that was quite a project. Hopefully
>>> all I will need to do is replace the gasket. I like the idea of bolts and
>>> washers.
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 12:18 AM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Mitch:
>>>> 
>>>> Replacing the gasket is not difficult but is a major PITA. Any
>>>> reconstruction of the cap or flange is also a possibility and adds to the
>>>> pain. Good idea to check it out in the water before you take it all apart.
>>>> 
>>>> Eventually, however, it will probably be necessary to do this job if for
>>>> no other reason than to replace the line and pulleys.
>>>> On my boat the removal of the cap was made infinitely worse by virtue of
>>>> the fact that some previous owner used 5200 sealant and then put fiberglass
>>>> over the top of the cap. As a result I broke the cap in two pieces getting
>>>> it off and damaged the housing flange with large gouges. Hopefully you will
>>>> not face that issue. No one else has reported a similar problem on this
>>>> list that I have seen.
>>>> 
>>>> I would replace the screws with stainless steel bolts and use large fender
>>>> washers and lock washers.I think it is better to punch clean holes in the
>>>> gasket rather than drilling them.
>>>> 
>>>> I did not think I had access to the proper gasket material and substituted
>>>> other neoprene material that I thought would work.  As a result I could not
>>>> get a perfect seal without using a sealant. I chose to use butyl tape as it
>>>> makes an excellent seal but has very low adhesive properties and so is easy
>>>> to remove when the time comes. Butyl is not rated for underwater use but so
>>>> far has worked well for me in fresh water. Better to get the proper gasket
>>>> material.
>>>> 
>>>> BTW, I was able to remove the cap and the centerboard while the boat was
>>>> on its trailer and have not heard of others needing to raise the boat for
>>>> that purpose but keep in mind that there appears to be a lot of variation
>>>> in the construction of the boat over the years and what works for one
>>>> person might not work in another situation. My boat is a 1976 model so it
>>>> has the older version of the centerboard. However, I would try to do the
>>>> work while on the trailer first and raise the boat only if that becomes
>>>> necessary.
>>>> 
>>>> While removing the centerboard and fixing the enclosure cap and flange
>>>> could be done while on the trailer, I discovered that I had serious damage
>>>> to the bottom of the keel housing with a large crack that went almost
>>>> entirely around the housing slot. So in the end I had to build a huge lift
>>>> so that I could work under the keel. My lift was a major project in itself
>>>> and probably overkill as I later learned that one person was able to
>>>> support the stern of the boat on a picnic table and support the front with
>>>> some sort of sawhorse arrangement. So there are definitely easier ways to
>>>> do this than what I did. The advantage of the lift is that I can raise the
>>>> boat high enough (5' between the bottom of the keel and the ground) to work
>>>> more comfortably under the keel and can also use it for my other two boats.
>>>> However, it is a very large structure. I can send pictures of the lift if
>>>> anyone is interested.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Graham Stewart
>>>> Agile 1976 Rhodes 22
>>>> Kingston Ontario
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf
>>>> Of Mitch Mitchell
>>>> Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 10:34 PM
>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
>>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Replacing Centerboard Gasket
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks JP! Did you have to lower the centerboard to replace the gasket? If
>>>> that' the case then I would have to get the boat off of the trailer. The
>>>> screws in the cap look good (not rusty) but there are no washers. I haven't
>>>> removed the top cap yet but thought I would put the boat in the water once
>>>> more with the floorboard out so I could see if it was leaking. MM
>>>> 
>>>> On Sun, Sep 29, 2019 at 7:14 PM JP Dempsey <joedempsey at hughes.net> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Mitch, I had the same problem last year and finally determined that the
>>>>> centerboard gasket was the problem. They dry rot eventually. It is a
>>>>> "fairly" simple job that I ended up doing myself, but you'll have to
>>>>> purchase a new gasket. I would have purchased from Stan but the
>>>> centerboard
>>>>> trunk cover was cracked and needed repair that I was not willing to
>>>>> attempt.
>>>>> Also you want to be sure that you drill holes that will match the
>>>> existing
>>>>> holes in you CB trunk flange and cover. I have a large collection of
>>>> photos
>>>>> that I took during the process. Removal of the trunk cover begins with
>>>>> removing the port berth/settee and the supporting structure in front of
>>>> the
>>>>> companionway. You'll need to remove the center section of the floorboard
>>>>> (sole) that runs from the inspection hatch back to beneath the
>>>>> companionway.
>>>>> (I removed all of the floorboards and found that they were severely
>>>> molded.
>>>>> These I replaced with new marine plywood treated with wood preservative
>>>> and
>>>>> multiple coats of urethane marine varnish.) You will need to lower the
>>>> CB.
>>>>> I
>>>>> placed a block of wood underneath. Also you'll have to remove the painter
>>>>> tube between the companionway and the CB cover. If there is any rust on
>>>> the
>>>>> machine screws, replace them. McMaster-Carr is the best source. Use only
>>>>> 316
>>>>> grade stainless steel. Also if your CB gasket is not fastened using
>>>> fender
>>>>> washers (mine wasn't) get them for both above and below the flange. I did
>>>>> all of this work while on the trailer during the off season. I believe
>>>> its
>>>>> also wise to re-seat all of the port lites and  if you ever replace the
>>>> rub
>>>>> rail, re-caulk the topside/hull joint with 4200 Sealant. I'm attaching
>>>>> photos that I hope will help.
>>>>> <
>>>>> 
>>>> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/Cabin_Sole_Original_Sub_Floor_Before.jpg
>>>>> 
>>>>> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Cover_w_Pump.jpg>
>>>>> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/CB_Gasket.jpg>
>>>>> <http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t752/Bilge_2_After.jpg>
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> -----
>>>>> JP Dempsey
>>>>> s/v Respite
>>>>> Rhodes 22 1989/2005
>>>>> Marshall,VA
>>>>> --
>>>>> Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 
> 
> 
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