[Rhodes22-list] installation of inline check valve for cockpit drain

[Jesse Shumaker]

On another thread about Chris's stowage for long term cruising, I mentioned
the minor issue of some water coming back up through the cockpit drain. 
James had suggested installing a check valve.
http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Long-term-cruising-stowage-tt56285.html

Since I didn't want to add an external check valve that would require adding
holes in the hull to screw in, I decided to install the inline check valve
that James suggested, which was $10 at Amazon.  It has a flapper that pushes
down when water comes in from the top to allow it to go through, but the
flapper is pushed up to seal and block when water comes from the bottom.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YSTX2SW/

The original connector hose was strongly attached, but was manageable to get
off.  It took a couple of tries to find connecting hoses that fit just
right.  I ended up using a different one for top and bottom:

Top:
Flexible Pvc Coupling with Stainless Steel Clamps 1 inch ($9)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GPXJ4HJ

Bottom: 
1 inch To 1.25 inches Straight Turbo/Intercooler/Intake Piping Coupler
Reducer Silicone Hose ($5).
This is built to withstand working pressure of 80 psi and burst pressure of
245 psi
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GX0AFGA

Steps:
1) Slide on the large side of the 1.25 couple onto the thru hull on the
bottom
2) Slide on the flexible coupler to the drain from the cockpit.  This will
stretch to fit, but it take effort.
*** MAKE SURE THE ARROW IS POINTING DOWN ON THE CHECK VALVE ***
3) Insert the check valve as far as it will go into the coupler on the
bottom hose
4) Somehow wedge the top flexible coupler over the top of the check valve. 
At first this may seem impossible.  A strong grip, some choice words, and
grunting were enough to get this all connected in a straight line.
5) Secure with hose clamps.
6) I added quite a bit of tape over the bottom coupler to add strength since
that is the portion that would be under pressure when the check valve is
pushed shut by water coming up from the bottom.  I used electrical tape and
then I also added some Gorilla Waterproof Patch and Seal tape which is very
adhesive and claims to be quite strong.
7) I added waterproof adhesive between the outside of the check valve and
the inside of the drain pipe coming down from the cockpit so water doesn't
seep down through the cracks.

The check valve actually extends up into the hole coming down from the
cockpit so the top connector isn't under pressure.

Some considerations:
- I'll have to make sure this doesn't get clogged 
- It has less throughput for draining then a straight hose which is a bit
wider.  My sailing locations are tame enough that I don't have to worry
about following seas swamping the cockpit so I think I'll be OK.
- I keep a soft foam cone shaped emergency boat plug in the lazarette in
case I need to plug a thru hull quickly.

I'm keeping the old hose in case I need to revert, but I think this will
work out.  I'll report back in the summer.

In summary, with the right parts this turned out to be a cheap and simple
project, but it requires some muscle to get the pieces in place.  

Here are some photos:
<http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t907/01Original.jpg> 
<http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t907/02BottomOn.jpg> 
<http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t907/03BottomAndTop.jpg> 
<http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t907/04WithTape.jpg> 
<http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/file/t907/05FromTheTop.jpg> 



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