[Rhodes22-list] questions regarding anchoring system / process
Frederick Lange
sloopblueheron at gmail.com
Sun Jul 19 11:15:38 EDT 2020
Hi Peter,
Do you know whether your setup allows you to safely and reliably drop and
retrieve the anchor in rough seas, per CG standards?
Regards,
Rick Lange
On Sat, Jul 18, 2020 at 9:25 PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> Jesse,
>
> On my boat there are three possible ways to run the foresail sheets (port
> and starboard).
> Outside all shrouds using the aft track and car
> Between the upper and lower shrouds using the more forward track and car
> Inside all shrouds using the cabin top fairlead and cam cleat
>
> I thought this arrangement was universal on Rhodes 22’s, but perhaps not.
>
> I use the aft track at least 95% of the time. I’ve never used the cabin
> top fairlead and cleat for the jib sheet.
>
> Being able to tie off the anchor rode right next to the cabin puts the
> rode exactly where I want it to be. It just worked out that way. I suppose
> using the aft cleats instead would work too, I’m just not sure exactly how
> the rode would run.
>
> When anchored for the night, the ‘painter’ is taking the load, but the
> rode is tied off to a bow cleat as a back-up. I added two additional bow
> cleats, so there’s plenty to choose from. Since the rode is slack, the
> location of the cleat is not critical.
>
> I made my anchor rode ’toggle’ from three pieces of 3/4” material glued
> together because I have lots of 3/4” oak in my workshop.
>
> In order to use the West Marine bag for storage, I think you would have to
> find a way to suspend it under the combing. I thought about that briefly,
> but decided that the approach I took was easier.
>
> Best of Luck
>
> —Peter
>
>
> > On Jul 18, 2020, at 2:06 PM, Jesse Shumaker <
> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Peter, thanks for your quick and detailed response.
> >
> > I would rather err on the side of caution and add the tubular covering to
> > avoid scratches on the deck so I think I'll try the tubular webbing as
> well.
> >
> > On your anchoring system video, I saw that you added a cleat to the jib
> > track that runs on deck next to the cabin. My R22 only has the outside
> of
> > genoa tracks, so I run my jib sheets outside the upper shrouds. I'm
> > curious, do you find yourself running the jib sheets inside the upper
> > shrouds and using the block on the inside track? I know there is also a
> > bulls eye and cam cleat for the jib sheets on top of the cabin on the
> > outside edge. I suppose that setup or the inside jib sheet track could
> be
> > used when using the partially furled jib and trying to point up. The
> club
> > Santana 20 that we use for match racing has two sets of jib sheet tracks
> and
> > we select which one to use based on whether we have a 90% jib or a
> genoa.
> > However, for my R22, I've simply left the jib sheets running on the
> outside
> > track. Perhaps others could share their experience on this too. From a
> > brief search of R22 photos on the internet, it appears that the presence
> of
> > a set of inside jib sheet tracks is the exception rather than the norm.
> >
> > I can see where it would be helpful to have a cleat accessible from the
> > cabin to tie off the anchor rode. Did you find that the aft cleats (also
> > used for stern lines) were insufficient? I wonder if you just wanted to
> > leave stern lines tied to those. Perhaps using the aft cleat would be
> > inconvenient since it is behind the deck pipe that opens to the front to
> > feed the rode into the lazarette. One possibility for my boat would be
> to
> > add a 6" folding cleat in front of the deck pipe so it would be out of
> the
> > way when not in use. I tend to sit on the coaming towards the front of
> the
> > stern rail to hike out when heeling so I want to make sure that space is
> > usable. That's the reason I decided not to pursue the rear mounting of
> the
> > bimini since I thought it could get in the way of sitting in that
> position.
> > Some other possibilities would be to add a folding cleat where you
> mounted
> > your cleat on the inside jib sheet track, or I could add a jib sheet
> track
> > along with a mounted cleat, block, and slider but that gets quite
> expensive.
> >
> > Regarding the quick connect/disconnect, I've found that there are locking
> > climbing caribiners rated to over 5600 lbs of load. In your case, I
> wonder
> > if you could use a more traditional solution (which takes some more time
> to
> > connect/disconnect) on one side, and use the carabiner connection on the
> > other so it wouldn't seem like a hassle to setup. I'm planning to have
> my
> > Mantus M2 anchor on a roller on the bow with rode stored in the laz like
> > your setup, though I may use a locking carbiner and just connect that
> when
> > getting ready to anchor. For my Fortress FX7 anchor, I plan to store
> that
> > in the laz. I plan to make some chocks to mount it sideways inside
> against
> > the forward wall of the lazerette. The rode for that (100' of 3/8" line
> > attached to 10' of 5/16" chain) will remain in it's current place, which
> is
> > a 3 gallon bucket under the starboard settee. I cut the bucket down so
> it
> > can slide in under the aft section of the bench and then locks in place
> > under the shorter section up front so it doesn't come out while heeling.
> >
> > For the deck pipe to access the rode in the laz, I might get a slightly
> > larger size than what you used. The rode that I plan to store there is
> 180'
> > of 1/2" line connected to 5/16" chain which came with the boat.
> Currently
> > there is 20' of chain but I will shorten that so it transitions to line
> > ahead of wherever I plan to cleat it.
> >
> > When you're anchored for the night, do you also tie off the anchor rode
> > somewhere on the foredeck? Based on my current setup on the foredeck,
> which
> > includes a Marinco solar vent, and chocks to either side, there's not an
> > easy way to direct the line to the cleat in the center of the bow.
> >
> > I may try your solution for the use of the bow eye using a "painter."
> For
> > the wood block that you made for this purpose, did you find it easier to
> > make out out of several pieces rather than one solid piece?
> >
> > For storing the rode in the lazarette, I had considered making a sort of
> > connector tube that leads to the West Marine rode storage bag that the
> rode
> > is currently stored in. I think it's the same one you showed in one of
> your
> > early videos. I suppose I would need to find a good way to attach the
> > connector tube to the West Marine bag. Or I could just make a bag like
> you
> > did.
> >
> > Those are some of my ideas for now, but the plans will probably continue
> to
> > evolve before I get started on the project in the fall. Thanks in
> advance
> > for any advice.
> >
> > Jesse Shumaker
> > S/V Zephyr
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/
>
>
More information about the Rhodes22-list
mailing list