[Rhodes22-list] Converting Electric Winch Motor Lift to a Manual System

Jesse Shumaker jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com
Mon Sep 7 20:06:58 EDT 2020


If you go for a seat belt as the webbing, you might want to stop by the
local you-pull-it (salvage yard) and you can probably find a cheap
selection there.

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020, 6:11 PM Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hey Jesse,
> Thanks for the lead. I’ll check it out. I am also following one for seat
> belt suppliers but that might be a bit spendy.
> Chris G
>
> On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 16:23, Jesse Shumaker <
> jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Chris, thanks for your comment about the knob.  Upon further inspection I
> > can pull out a knob on my ATV winch and it will freewheel as you
> mentioned
> > - much better than cutting the webbing!
> >
> > Regarding replacement of the webbing, it appears to be a winch strap of
> the
> > same kind used on the manual winch used at the front of the trailer to
> pull
> > / keep the boat forward and these are widely available as a replacement
> > part.  I actually had to replace my winch strap at the front of my
> trailer
> > after the last road trip due to some chafing issues resulting from the
> bow
> > being slightly off center as a result of a downhill park and slide effort
> > to move the boat forward.
> >
> > Good luck with your Red Rhodes!
> >
> > S/V Zephyr
> >
> > On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 9:08 PM Chris Geankoplis <
> chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com
> > >
> > wrote:
> >
> > > On my motor there is a little knop you can pull out and it allows the
> > winch
> > > to "freewheel" so getting the motor down doesn't involve cutting the
> > > webbing.  Speaking of webbing, where can I get a replacement, it has
> some
> > > holes in it where it snagged a bolt which probably caused the pull
> > > through.  Oh and I will file your project write up in my Red Rhodes
> file.
> > > Thanks!
> > > Chris Geankoplis
> > > Enosis
> > >
> > > On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 1:22 PM Jesse Shumaker <
> > > jesse.laten.shumaker at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Since the remote on my motorized winch was starting to act up late
> last
> > > > summer, I had pondered whether to switch to a manual setup or replace
> > the
> > > > winch.  Now that I hear of the loads mentioned in this thread, I'm
> > glad I
> > > > chose the path of replacing with a new electric winch.  My back gives
> > me
> > > > problems occasionally and lifting a heavy motor (my 9.8 Tohatsu is no
> > > > feather) could be problematic.  Also, it's best if my wife is
> > comfortable
> > > > running all operations of the boat as well and lifting a motor that
> > > weighs
> > > > so much, even with the mechanical advantage, may not even be feasible
> > for
> > > > her.  Since I did have concerns about redundancy, I replaced it with
> a
> > > new
> > > > ATV winch that had both a wired switch and two remotes.  That project
> > is
> > > > summarized at
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/Replacement-of-winch-for-motor-lift-td56157.html#a56176
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I figured that if the motor was ever stuck in the up position and the
> > > > electric winch failed when I really needed to lower the motor, I
> could
> > > run
> > > > a line over the stern rail that attaches to the motor and to the port
> > > winch
> > > > like Mike mentioned.  After getting that tensioned I could cut the
> belt
> > > > that runs from the winch and would be free to lower the motor
> gradually
> > > > with the spare line.  Raising would be the same technique, only it
> > would
> > > > not require cutting of the belt.
> > > >
> > > > Since my motor will occasionally get slightly stuck on the way down,
> I
> > > give
> > > > the tracks an occasional spray of silicone lubricant and that helps.
> > > All I
> > > > need to do is give the motor a little nudge on the way down if it
> gets
> > > > stuck.  It never seems to be an issue on the way up.
> > > >
> > > > Jesse Shumaker
> > > > S/V Zephyr
> > > >
> > > > On Sun, Sep 6, 2020 at 4:54 AM Gmorganflier <gmorgan.flier at gmail.com
> >
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Peter,
> > > > >
> > > > > It seems we have done a similar setup on converting to our manual
> > lift
> > > > > system. Please post some photos.
> > > > >
> > > > > I thought of something which may be causing my extra resistance and
> > > maybe
> > > > > on
> > > > > yours also. When my motor is not against either the bottom or top
> > > stops,
> > > > > just somewhere in between, I can take my motor and swing it side to
> > > side
> > > > > and
> > > > > there’s a lot of movement. There was even more when I bought the
> boat
> > > > > before
> > > > > i had someone add some shims to get rid of some of the slop.
> > > > >
> > > > > With our system I wonder where the center of force is on the bottom
> > > tube.
> > > > > Maybe it’s not centered and it’s not pulling the motor up straight
> in
> > > the
> > > > > channels. Maybe in my case as I start up, it’s cocking the engine
> at
> > an
> > > > > angle in the metal channels creating extra resistance? I’ll have to
> > > > > experiment with this.
> > > > >
> > > > > George Morgan
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Sent from: http://rhodes-22.1065344.n5.nabble.com/
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>


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