[Rhodes22-list] Trailer

[Rod Ellner]

Hi All

We’re with Slim……..added tandem wheels to trailer ourselves (Mr Stan even approved when he saw them!! :) :) )      Made A WORLD of DIFFERENCE in towing to and from Kentucky Lake from Wisconsin!

Fair Winds to ALL

Rod and Mary

Hudson/St Croix River

> On May 17, 2021, at 10:48 AM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> If you have the trailer Stan provides, it has a sliding bow crutch.  If so,
> pull the crutch all the way forward and winch the boat until you get 100#
> on the tongue.  Then snug the crutch to the bow and lock the crutch in
> place.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Rick Lange
> 
> 
> On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 11:41 AM THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
>> How can I move forward if bunks are fixed?
>> 
>>> On May 17, 2021, at 11:30 AM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> The boat needs to be forward enough on the trailer to put 100# on the
>>> tongue.  That will allow a single axle trailer to be towed up to 65mph
>>> without fishtailing with a rear axle drive vehicle.
>>> 
>>> Regards,
>>> 
>>> Rick Lange
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 8:14 AM Steven Alm <stevenalm at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Thomas, when I first bought my boat a quarter century ago and towed it
>> for
>>>> the first time, as soon as I hit 45mph the boat started fishtailing
>> wildly
>>>> and jerking the vehicle like crazy. Scary as h*ll! I took the motor off
>> and
>>>> lashed it to the trailer tongue and also loaded other gear as far
>> forward
>>>> as possible. That helped. But also, when the boat was in the yard (not
>>>> connected to the vehicle) if I climbed the boarding ladder the tongue
>> would
>>>> lift up. I’m only 165 lbs! After a couple years of this and many
>> attempts
>>>> to load the boat farther up on the trailer I finally popped for a second
>>>> axle to be added to the trailer. I added electric breaks too.  Best
>>>> thousand bucks I ever spent! It now tracks like a dream without removing
>>>> the motor, shifting gear or anything else. It also gives me peace of
>> mind
>>>> knowing that if I blow a tire or burn a bearing I can safely pull
>> over.  I
>>>> know some R22s tow just fine on single axle rigs but mine did not and
>>>> others, like you have had the same problem. Not all trailers are created
>>>> equal. If you plan to do much trailering I highly recommend this fix.
>>>> 
>>>> Steve “Slim” Alm
>>>> S/V Fandango
>>>>> On Sat, May 1, 2021 at 12:17 AM <cjlowe at sssnet.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Yes, I can see how I could have worded it better. You want the stopper
>> "
>>>>> arm" pushed all the way toward the tow vehicle .
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Jerry Lowe
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Just to clarify, when you say the bow stopper has to be all the way
>> back
>>>>>> you mean it should be retracted towards the front of the trailer—is
>>>> that
>>>>>> correct?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Michael McKay
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Apr 30, 2021, at 6:41 AM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Makes sense. Thanks!
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 2:16 AM <cjlowe at sssnet.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Mitch,
>>>>>>>> The bow stopper has to be all the way back so the bow eye doesn't
>>>> hit
>>>>>>>> the stopper when pulling out of the water. As you start to  pull the
>>>>>>>> trailer out of water, the boat is resting on the tip of forward end
>>>> of
>>>>>>>> the bunks and the aft end of the boat floats a foot or more above
>> the
>>>>>>>> back end of bunks. As the boat comes out, it rocks back and the bow
>>>> of
>>>>>>>> the boat raises about a foot, if you don't have the stop all the way
>>>>>>>> back, you will rip off the bow eye pad, or worse.
>>>>>>>> I like to have the bow eye pad about two inches forward of the bow
>>>> for
>>>>>>>> travel. The boat will rock almost that much in transit and there is
>>>> no
>>>>>>>> sense in beating up the bow by putting them tight together.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Jerry Lowe
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> If that’s the case what would be the purpose of an adjustable bow
>>>>>>>>> stopper?
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Apr 28, 2021, at 10:50 PM, Peter Nyberg <
>> peter at sunnybeeches.com
>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I’ll disagree a bit here.  I never move my ‘bow bumper’.
>>>>>>>>>> I’ll put my bow as close to it as I can manage while the boat is
>>>>>>>>>> still
>>>>>>>>>> in the water.  As Charles said, when the boat and trailer are
>>>> pulled
>>>>>>>>>> out
>>>>>>>>>> of the water, the space between the ‘bow bumper’ and the boat
>>>>>>>>>> will
>>>>>>>>>> increase.  This is inevitable, and not necessarily a problem.
>>>> Moving
>>>>>>>>>> the ‘bow bumper’ closer to the boat at this point just increases
>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>> likelihood of damage to the boat in transit.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Peter Nyberg
>>>>>>>>>> Coventry, CT
>>>>>>>>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> On Apr 28, 2021, at 10:29 PM, Charles Nieman
>>>>>>>>>>> <blue66corvette at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Thomas
>>>>>>>>>>> You float the boat, slide the bow bumper as far forward as
>>>> possible,
>>>>>>>>>>> tighten the boat as far to the front as possible. When you drive
>>>> out
>>>>>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>>>>>> the water, the boat will shift to the stern, so the key is to
>> keep
>>>>>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>>>>> as close to the front as possible. After you get it out of the
>>>>>>>>>>> water,
>>>>>>>>>>> then you slide the bow bumper back to the boat to reduce bounce.
>>>>>>>>>>> It’s
>>>>>>>>>>> tricky, and I’ve had to retry a few times but it can be done.
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> Charles
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>> 
>>