[Rhodes22-list] Trailer

[PBR]

I definitely want to hear the answer to Graham's question so standing by
for that just adding my two cents.

I have the same problem getting far enough forward.  As said previously the
stern floats freely then when you pull the trailer forward that rocks the
bow up but also back away from the stop.  I have found this is highly
dependent on how steep the ramp is.  Steeper ramp means more problems.
Also, the carpet on my bunks is too sticky, once the boat lays down on it I
can't pull it forward with the winch without fear of pulling out the bow
eye.

On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 1:05 AM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:

> I am wondering what all is involved in adding another axel. Is it just a
> matter of placing a secod axel behind the current one or do both axels need
> to be moved to achieve a proper balance?
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf
> Of Steven Alm
> Sent: Monday, May 17, 2021 8:15 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Trailer
>
> Thomas, when I first bought my boat a quarter century ago and towed it for
> the first time, as soon as I hit 45mph the boat started fishtailing wildly
> and jerking the vehicle like crazy. Scary as h*ll! I took the motor off and
> lashed it to the trailer tongue and also loaded other gear as far forward
> as possible. That helped. But also, when the boat was in the yard (not
> connected to the vehicle) if I climbed the boarding ladder the tongue would
> lift up. I’m only 165 lbs! After a couple years of this and many attempts
> to load the boat farther up on the trailer I finally popped for a second
> axle to be added to the trailer. I added electric breaks too.  Best
> thousand bucks I ever spent! It now tracks like a dream without removing
> the motor, shifting gear or anything else. It also gives me peace of mind
> knowing that if I blow a tire or burn a bearing I can safely pull over.  I
> know some R22s tow just fine on single axle rigs but mine did not and
> others, like you have had the same problem. Not all trailers are created
> equal. If you plan to do much trailering I highly recommend this fix.
>
> Steve “Slim” Alm
> S/V Fandango
> On Sat, May 1, 2021 at 12:17 AM <cjlowe at sssnet.com> wrote:
>
> > Yes, I can see how I could have worded it better. You want the stopper "
> > arm" pushed all the way toward the tow vehicle .
> >
> >
> >   Jerry Lowe
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  Just to clarify, when you say the bow stopper has to be all the way back
> > > you mean it should be retracted towards the front of the trailer—is
> that
> > > correct?
> > >
> > > Michael McKay
> > >
> > > Sent from my iPhone
> > >
> > >> On Apr 30, 2021, at 6:41 AM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Makes sense. Thanks!
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>> On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 2:16 AM <cjlowe at sssnet.com> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Mitch,
> > >>>  The bow stopper has to be all the way back so the bow eye doesn't
> hit
> > >>> the stopper when pulling out of the water. As you start to  pull the
> > >>> trailer out of water, the boat is resting on the tip of forward end
> of
> > >>> the bunks and the aft end of the boat floats a foot or more above the
> > >>> back end of bunks. As the boat comes out, it rocks back and the bow
> of
> > >>> the boat raises about a foot, if you don't have the stop all the way
> > >>> back, you will rip off the bow eye pad, or worse.
> > >>> I like to have the bow eye pad about two inches forward of the bow
> for
> > >>> travel. The boat will rock almost that much in transit and there is
> no
> > >>> sense in beating up the bow by putting them tight together.
> > >>>
> > >>> Jerry Lowe
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> If that’s the case what would be the purpose of an adjustable bow
> > >>>> stopper?
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>>>
> > >>>>> On Apr 28, 2021, at 10:50 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com
> >
> > >>>>> wrote:
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> I’ll disagree a bit here.  I never move my ‘bow bumper’.
> > >>>>> I’ll put my bow as close to it as I can manage while the boat is
> > >>>>> still
> > >>>>> in the water.  As Charles said, when the boat and trailer are
> pulled
> > >>>>> out
> > >>>>> of the water, the space between the ‘bow bumper’ and the boat
> > >>>>> will
> > >>>>> increase.  This is inevitable, and not necessarily a problem.
> Moving
> > >>>>> the ‘bow bumper’ closer to the boat at this point just increases
> > >>>>> the
> > >>>>> likelihood of damage to the boat in transit.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Peter Nyberg
> > >>>>> Coventry, CT
> > >>>>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>> On Apr 28, 2021, at 10:29 PM, Charles Nieman
> > >>>>>> <blue66corvette at hotmail.com> wrote:
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Thomas
> > >>>>>> You float the boat, slide the bow bumper as far forward as
> possible,
> > >>>>>> tighten the boat as far to the front as possible. When you drive
> out
> > >>>>>> of
> > >>>>>> the water, the boat will shift to the stern, so the key is to keep
> > >>>>>> it
> > >>>>>> as close to the front as possible. After you get it out of the
> > >>>>>> water,
> > >>>>>> then you slide the bow bumper back to the boat to reduce bounce.
> > >>>>>> It’s
> > >>>>>> tricky, and I’ve had to retry a few times but it can be done.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Charles
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>