[Rhodes22-list] Furling headsail replacement

[Michael McKay]

Thanks again Roger. 

Michael McKay
(630) 209-2054 (m)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 15, 2021, at 7:40 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Michael,
> 
> Try Dwyer Aluminum Mast Co. (  https://www.dwyermast.com  )
> The standard mast is a type DM-500 extrusion.  A masthead casting that fits the DM-500 extrusion with sufficient blocks for mainsail, genoa, and spinnaker halyards with a spinnaker crane would be the DH 1015.   I don’t know where Stan gets the IMF masts fabricated.  But, worldwide, there aren’t too many venders for these aluminum extrusions.  If you did a tracing of the cross section of the mast and got the dimensions, you could probably find the vender that made it.  Or, you could ask Stan if he has masthead castings for the IMF mast with blocks for extra halyards.  Isn’t there an optional spinnaker package from GBI?  If so, that might include the correct masthead casting.
> 
> The genoa was made by:
> 
> JSI
> Also known as Johnson Sails, Inc or Island Nautical Enterprises, Inc.  The company has changed owners and locations in the Greater St. Petersburg area several times.  The most recent contact info I have for them is:
> 
> 1000 30th Street S
> St. Petersburg, FL 33702
> (727) 577-3220
> www.islandnautical.com<http://www.islandnautical.com>
> 
> They also made my fully battened mainsail and mainsail cover.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows
> 
> From: Michael McKay<mailto:mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 10:58 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Furling headsail replacement
> 
> Roger,
> 
> Thank you for this incredibly detailed advice.  I have a couple of follow up questions:
> 
> 1) How can I add halyards?  My boat has the IMF and GB standard furler so there are no halyards.  I’m guessing I need to replace the masthead casting to do that—is that correct, and if so where would I go for that?
> 
> 2) Who made your genoa for you?
> 
> Thank you for your many invaluable contributions to the R22 community!
> 
> Michael McKay
> s/v Liber
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 14, 2021, at 3:32 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> Hi Michael,
>> 
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has had a Harken Unit 0 roller furler since 1993.  If you are going to do this upgrade, get a roller furler that has the following features:
>> 
>> 
>> 1.  An aerodynamically shaped headfoil with twin luff grooves.
>> 2.  Independent upper and lower swivels
>> 3.  A low profile lower swivel assembly that doesn’t use up a lot of headsail luff length
>> 4.  Extensive use of Torlon ball &/or roller bearings throughout
>> 5.  An enclosed furling drum with a good fairlead to prevent furling control line snarls
>> 6.  Either an extruded, 1-piece, flexible, polymer headfoil or an extruded aluminum headfoil with individual, replaceable sections in case you damage one
>> 
>> Besides, the Harken roller furlers, there are many other quality units on the market that fulfill all these requirements.  I replaced my headstay as part of this project.  The Harken unit has been completely bulletproof and still spins as easily as a bicycle tire!  All the maintenance that’s required is an annual freshwater rinse for the bearings and the weekly anti spider flush on the furling drum.  Why do spiders like to build nests inside the furling drum?
>> 
>> Once you’ve installed the upgraded roller furler, you’re going to need a new headsail to take advantage of it.  Your new headsail should be:
>> 
>> 
>> 1.  Made of a composite material vs. dacron.  S/V Dynamic Equilibrium’s 150% genoa is made of Bainbridge’s Cruise-Lam composite sailcloth.  Cruise-Lam sailcloth is a 5 layer composite consisting of outer skins of dacron for abrasion, UV, and flogging resistance, Kevlar scrims (think mesh), and an inner core of mylar.  It’s been completely bulletproof and the sail shape still looks great!
>> 2.  Constructed with Bi-Radial or Tri-Radial panel layout.  S/V Dynamic Equiibrium’s 150% genoa is made with Bi-Radial panel layout.  But, with improvements in CAD assisted panel layout in the time since I purchased mine, I would probably opt for a Tri-Radial panel layout if I purchased it today.
>> 3.  Either have UV protective acrylic panels ( i.e. Sunbrella) sewn into the foot and leech or use a UV protective Sunbrella sleeve that is hauled up the furled headsail using an extra halyard when you are not using it.  Since S/V Dynamic Equilibrium is rigged to fly a tri-radial spinnaker and has the spare halyard, my boat has the protective sleeve.  I think the protective sleeve does a better job of protecting the head of the furled sail and the upper swivel assembly from the elements.  The genoa cover is installed as part of getting the boat ready to leave at the dock similar to snapping on the mainsail cover and is removed and stowed as part of the process of getting the boat ready to get underway.  S/V Dynamic Equilibrium also has a standard mainsail.  I choose the protective sleeve vs. the sewn-in panels to give the headsail better light air performance.  The sewn-in panels are heavy and can prevent the genoa from properly inflating in light air.
>> 4.  Has an appropriately sized luff tape that fits the grooves in your headsail foil
>> 5.  Has tensioning cords sewn into the foot and leach for fine adjustments of sail shape in the lower 1/3 of the sail and minimizing leech flutter
>> 6.  Has at least 3 windows sewn in up and down about 12 inches aft of the luff with windward/leeward tell tails sewn in
>> 7.  Has at least 3 leech tell tails sewn in up and down the sail
>> 8.  Has a foam luff pad and a sail shape that enables the upper and lower swivels to take up the extra draft as the sail is furled.  This feature is worthless unless your roller furler has upper and lower independent swivels.  But, it will dramatically increase the usable dynamic range of your roller furler.  In my opinion, without this feature, this project isn’t worth doing.
>> 
>> It’s an expensive project.  But, speed costs money.  How fast can you afford to go?  Yes, I know I’m out of control!
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 
>> Sent from Mail<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=04%7C01%7C%7C8619de560c7f4f55d44d08d98f87a004%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637698634958151327%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=WUvymb53VVLowhbYQxZuK31VIiENt2YGg7kbQVdTIVM%3D&reserved=0> for Windows
>> 
>> From: Michael McKay<mailto:mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2021 12:21 PM
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org<mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Furling headsail replacement
>> 
>> The recent threads regarding mainsails and racing performance issues prompts me to ask a question that’s been on my mind.
>> 
>> My boat has the factory furler, which requires me to drop the mast to remove the headsail.  I’d like the option of being able to change out my 130 for a working jib when appropriate for higher wind race days.
>> 
>> I’ve been contemplating replacing my furler with a CDI or Harken, but I believe I will need an additional halyard for that and my masthead doesn’t have an extra sheave. Has anyone done that replacement and could you share what your experience was?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Michael McKay
>> s/v Liber (2006/2018)
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>