[Rhodes22-list] Tiller pilot - Am I overthinking this? - and NMEA 0183

[Mike Riter]

As always Peter, you are a wealth of knowledge.

I just finished epoxying in the support piece after it sets, I think I'm
going to add 2 screws through the gunwale and into the block as a belt and
suspenders thing. I saw in your video how yours broke loose. The temp. fix
was brilliant, but I'd rather not go there if I can help it.

I've watched your wiring video a couple of times and while I'm ready to go
that far with mine yet, there are some good ideas I can use from it.

Thanks!

Mike Riter
SV Emma B




On Sun, Mar 6, 2022 at 10:07 AM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> The brand of multiplexer I installed is 'Brookhouse'.  This was in the
> early days of NEMA-wifi technology, and the impression I got was this
> company was one guy working in his garage.  It has always worked reliably,
> but doesn't appear to be available anymore.
>
> If you have a fiberglass tiller, be careful not to over tighten the
> bolts.  My tiller appears to have a seam down the middle, and the flat head
> bolts can act like wedges pushing the two halves apart.
>
> My approach to straightening out the wiring and making it more accessible
> can be found in this video starting at about 6:30 :
> https://youtu.be/FsJeFTQnR6Q
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
> > On 2022-03-05, at 17:34:12 EST, Mike Riter wrote:
> >
> > OK, one (maybe) last question. What multiplexer are you using?
> >
> > The holes are drilled for the tiller pilot and the pivot pin and drop
> are
> > mounted on the tiller. With everything mocked up, it fits. I took a cue
> from
> > your video and drilled the mount holes for the drop bracket all the way
> through
> > the tiller and through bolted it. I also countersunk the screw heads
> (again like
> > you did) and it makes a very smooth, finished look. I do have to epoxy
> in a
> > piece of wood up underneath the gunwale to support the rear pivot pin.
> The
> > fiberglass there is thin like yours is. I have a 4" x 4" x1" piece of
> white oak
> > for that. I shaped one side to more or less match the curve at the
> inside edge
> > of the gunwale and epoxy coated the sides and bottom. Tomorrow after it
> sets up
> > I'll epoxy that to the gunwale.
> >
> > On to the wiring!
> >
> > Mike Riter
> > SV Emma B
> >
> >
> >
>
>