[Rhodes22-list] Deck Joint repair question

Mon Mar 28 15:56:24 EDT 2022

I would not have had the courage either if I hadn't been told that the boat's life was over and was ready to go to the dump. So I had nothing to lose but time and I couldn't bring myself to take it to the dump. After all, boats have souls don't they?

Graham Stewart
Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
Kingston Ontario

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of mm.bizlist1 at gmail.com
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2022 3:08 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List'
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Deck Joint repair question

Awesome job Graham!  I would never have the courage to attempt anything like that.

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Graham Stewart
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2022 12:39 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Deck Joint repair question

Jesse:
I did a full osmosis repair of the hull below the waterline. I dug out all of the blisters and filled them with epoxy filler than applied 6 coats of Interlux barrier epoxy coating and then antifouling of course. In the process I raised the waterline about 2" as I had some osmosis in that area. Figuring exactly where the new waterline would go turned out to be a puzzle as you can't just measure up 2" from the old one. Also I discovered that the lines on the port and starboard were not in exactly the same position - not that anyone could tell but that set me off on a quest to solve the "problem".

The topsides were painted with an Awlgrip-type paint many years ago and before I bought the boat in 1995. The boat is an incredible endorsement for the longevity of the paint. The exception was the transom which had been damaged when the rudder popped off while the boat was at anchor and badly scraped the gel coat. I also decided that the rudder was not centered precisely and decided to "correct" its location. Another sink hole for time it turned out. As a result of all this I had to paint the transom. It is not the exact same color but you can't tell because the light always hits it from a different angle than the sides. Yellow is a difficult color to get proper coverage with so I must have painted it 10 times before I was adequately satisfied.

Because of the extensive deck work I had done I had no choice but to paint the deck and cockpit - everything white. I also glassed over all of the original non-skid so I needed to replace that as well. I used Kiwi Grip - a truly wonderful product. 

I had never spray painted anything before and starting with a deck and cockpit is not how one wants to build experience. Also I didn't want to splurge on an expensive spray painting setup so I bought a very cheap HVLP system on sale for $35 Canadian dollars. I used System 3 waterborne LPU paint and epoxy base coat. I applied three coats of the base and about 3+ coats of the top coat. I would give the paint a questionable review as to longevity - especially compared to the hull paint but I had no desire to spray a dangerous and difficult to manage epoxy paint. I have attached a picture of the boat when newly painted and with the new windows installed and I was pretty pleased with it given that it should have been a disaster. Since then the paint has cracked in some corners and lifted up in a few places. I have found, however, that repairing these problems is not very difficult. I just use an airbrush for small problems and that works pretty well without having to get out the HVLP sprayer, do a lot of masking and use a large quantity of expensive paint.

It is an old boat (76) and on the whole I am happy with it. A lot of work though with removing all hardware and reinstalling it afterwards. The boat deck fairing took me forever until I learned to not use a random orbital sander. The sander makes it smooth but not flat. You really have to use a long-board sander. While very tiring, it is much faster in the end. 

Take copious notes and photos about where all the hardware was located - you WILL NOT be able to figure it out easily afterwards when the deck is repaired and painted. I did pretty well with most of the hardware but failed to make notes about the exact placement of the chain plates. That was a mistake as being off only a little can become a significant problem. I was changing the hardware and attachment for the chain plates so they necessarily needed to be moved slightly anyway but knowing the exact location of the old ones would have made my life much easier. 

Graham Stewart
gstewart8 at cogeco.ca

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf Of Jesse Shumaker
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2022 8:01 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Deck Joint repair question

Thanks for the photos Graham.  One of your photos sparked another question,
did you tackle the paint job for the top sides yourself?  It looks like it
came out very well.  If I recall correctly from a previous post, you
addressed some issues on the bottom, then applied an epoxy barrier coat
before putting on bottom paint.  I think that post was when you explained
your "boat gallows" setup to hoist the boat.  I wasn't sure if you painted
the top sides yourself as well.

Jesse

On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 8:36 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart8 at cogeco.ca> wrote:

> Can't say I have many pictures of the fix for the hull-deck joint repair
> but have attached what I have. As I mentioned before I cut back the flange
> on the upper liner so I could get access to the inside joint which I then
> filled with thickend epoxy and covered with several layers of fiberglass
> cloth. That made the whole boat more rigid and certainly stopped any leaks
> but, like most of what I did, was grand overkill.
>
> I used simple tools to remove the old sealant after removing the old rub
> rail. I don't think it is possible to remove the rub rail without
> destroying it. The new rub rail was made by Tessilmayer. The new rail cap
> goes over a track that was screwed and riveted through the joint. Why did I
> use both screws and rivets? God knows.
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile, Rodes 22, 1976
> Kingston Ontario
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list [mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org] On Behalf
> Of Jesse Shumaker
> Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2022 8:35 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Deck Joint repair question
>
> I've been following this thread with interest since I had wondered about
> the hull to deck joint and what would be involved in resealing it if I ever
> had to do that.  Since a few people have been down this road, I wonder if
> Chuy, Graham, or others have any photos of this project in progress.
> Rodney, it will be good to hear how your project turns out.
>
> Jesse Shumaker
> S/V Zephyr
>
> On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 12:05 PM chuy carreon <chcarreon at cox.net> wrote:
>
> > Great idea on the 3m 4200. I removed the aluminum guard rail with care
> and
> > drilled out the rivets. Most were decomposed. I used aluminum bolts and
> > locking nuts with a washer. Used plenty of 4200. I think now I should
> have
> > used stainless steel with a new guard rail. But even now do not know what
> > that would have been.  All is holding well.
> >
> > Good luck.
> > Chuy
> > 1987 AfterMath
> >
> > > On March 25, 2022 at 11:34 AM RODNEY BROWN <rnelson204 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks to everyone who replied. Ive ordered some 3m 4200 and will
> > attempt the easier route up the mountain before I start taking a bunch of
> > stuff apart.  I’ll report back in when its complete and Ive had time to
> > test her out.
> > >
> > > Have a great weekend all,
> > >
> > > Rodney
> > >
> > > > On Mar 25, 2022, at 10:24 AM, Lowe, Rob <rlowe at vt.edu> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Rodney,
> > > > I had a similar problem with my first Rhodes.  I just got a chalk gun
> > and chalked around the joint as best I could.  Problem solved.  Don't
> use a
> > silicon chalk as you'll never get of off if you need to.
> > > >
> > > > Rob
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf
> Of
> > R Brown
> > > > Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2022 2:30 PM
> > > > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > > > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Deck Joint repair question
> > > >
> > > > Hope everyone is having a great week.  I purchased my Rhodes in Jan,
> > and the owner mentioned that he was planning on resealing the deck joint
> > this year (she leaks a little water on the starboard side galley are when
> > the gunwales are buried). The search function lead to me to a few threads
> > on this topics, but left me with questions.  (My boat was built in 2001)
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > A. What to parts should I expect to replace?   I’ve read mention of
> > drilling out rivets when resealing the joint.
> > > >
> > > > Some one mentioned replacing rivets with bolts. Are there thoughts
> > about the pros and cons of bolt vs. rivets?
> > > > Does anyone have a suggestion on what size rivets I’ll need? Also,
> > where is a good source to purchase them?
> > > > Should I plan on replacing the rub rail while doing this?
> > > >
> > > > B. How much time should I budget for this repair?
> > > >
> > > > C. Lastly, would anyone be willing to talk live to share the
> > experience on this repair.  If so my cell is 405-496-5533
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance for helping this rookie out.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > >
> > > > Rodney
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
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