From tvpolise at aol.com Mon Apr 3 13:47:28 2023 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2023 13:47:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panel diodes References: <73E3488E-E0E2-4DB9-8565-36A7EEA20C05.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <73E3488E-E0E2-4DB9-8565-36A7EEA20C05@aol.com> Does anyone know the make, model and place to purchase diodes for solar panels? Thanks Tom S/V Driftwood From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Mon Apr 3 14:23:46 2023 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2023 14:23:46 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panel diodes In-Reply-To: <73E3488E-E0E2-4DB9-8565-36A7EEA20C05@aol.com> References: <73E3488E-E0E2-4DB9-8565-36A7EEA20C05.ref@aol.com> <73E3488E-E0E2-4DB9-8565-36A7EEA20C05@aol.com> Message-ID: Hi Tom, These days, solar panels come with the correct diodes built in. Regards, Rick Lange On Mon, Apr 3, 2023 at 1:47?PM THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Does anyone know the make, model and place to purchase diodes for solar > panels? > > Thanks > > Tom > > S/V Driftwood > From tvpolise at aol.com Mon Apr 3 14:39:02 2023 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2023 14:39:02 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panel diodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Mon Apr 3 14:47:37 2023 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2023 14:47:37 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panel diodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Be safe and get new ones. Regards, Rick Lange On Mon, Apr 3, 2023 at 2:39?PM THOMAS POLISE wrote: > I have the original panels, the wiring was removed by boatyard after they > sunk my boat. > > On Apr 3, 2023, at 2:24 PM, Rick Lange wrote: > > ? > Hi Tom, > > These days, solar panels come with the correct diodes built in. > > Regards, > > Rick Lange > > > On Mon, Apr 3, 2023 at 1:47?PM THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list < > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > >> Does anyone know the make, model and place to purchase diodes for solar >> panels? >> >> Thanks >> >> Tom >> >> S/V Driftwood >> > From tvpolise at aol.com Mon Apr 3 14:52:23 2023 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2023 14:52:23 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panel diodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <227C8DA6-749E-469D-B9CE-B8B794443FB7@aol.com> From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Apr 5 10:56:15 2023 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2023 07:56:15 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panel diodes Message-ID: Thomas, I assume you're referring to the small solar panels that GB installs on the cabin top. I needed to replace one of my diodes a few years ago. I don't remember details of how I went about figuring out specifically what I needed, but once I did, I easily found replacements on Amazon. Looking at my order history, I see that they are spec'd at 15 Amp, 45 Volt, R-6 Axial (whatever that means), meant specifically for use with solar panels. The specific ones I ordered are no longer available, but you can find others if you search for 'solar panel diodes'. Anyway, the price was $7 for a pack of 20. I only used 1 or 2. I'd be happy to send you a few. --Peter > On 2023-04-03, at 13:47:28 EDT, THOMAS POLISE wrote: > > Does anyone know the make, model and place to purchase diodes for solar panels? > > Thanks > > Tom > > S/V Driftwood > From tvpolise at aol.com Wed Apr 5 11:37:01 2023 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2023 11:37:01 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panel diodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3BCBD017-FA54-4766-B57D-35BE0CE9A81C@aol.com> Wow, thank you. I?ll send my address separately and Venmo you or send check for postage and whatever you want for the cost. > On Apr 5, 2023, at 10:56 AM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > ?Thomas, > > I assume you're referring to the small solar panels that GB installs on the cabin top. > > I needed to replace one of my diodes a few years ago. I don't remember details of how I went about figuring out specifically what I needed, but once I did, I easily found replacements on Amazon. Looking at my order history, I see that they are spec'd at 15 Amp, 45 Volt, R-6 Axial (whatever that means), meant specifically for use with solar panels. > > The specific ones I ordered are no longer available, but you can find others if you search for 'solar panel diodes'. > > Anyway, the price was $7 for a pack of 20. I only used 1 or 2. I'd be happy to send you a few. > > --Peter > >> On 2023-04-03, at 13:47:28 EDT, THOMAS POLISE wrote: >> >> Does anyone know the make, model and place to purchase diodes for solar panels? >> >> Thanks >> >> Tom >> >> S/V Driftwood >> > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Apr 5 13:53:12 2023 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2023 10:53:12 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panel diodes Message-ID: Tom, I just put an envelope with 3 diodes (just in case) in my mailbox. Please don't worry about the very small cost. I'm happy not to have to throw them out. I have 16 diodes left, if anyone else could use a few. --Peter > On 2023-04-05, at 11:37:01 EDT, THOMAS POLISE wrote: > > Wow, thank you. I?ll send my address separately and Venmo you or send check for > postage and whatever you want for the cost. > > From tvpolise at aol.com Wed Apr 5 15:07:41 2023 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2023 15:07:41 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panel diodes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thank you Peter! > On Apr 5, 2023, at 1:53 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > ?Tom, > > I just put an envelope with 3 diodes (just in case) in my mailbox. Please don't worry about the very small cost. I'm happy not to have to throw them out. > > I have 16 diodes left, if anyone else could use a few. > > --Peter > >> On 2023-04-05, at 11:37:01 EDT, THOMAS POLISE wrote: >> >> Wow, thank you. I?ll send my address separately and Venmo you or send check for >> postage and whatever you want for the cost. >> >> > From hankstein at aol.com Thu Apr 6 12:12:50 2023 From: hankstein at aol.com (hankstein at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 16:12:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders References: <2048111318.464875.1680797570065.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2048111318.464875.1680797570065@mail.yahoo.com> I am Hank Stein.? I recently purchased a '93 Rhodes 22 (GBX22113A193). The spreaders are connected with a cotter pin to a through the mast pin.? --? that is, both spreaders are attached to a pin that goes through the mast.?This seems an odd way to mount spreaders.? Please, I would appreciate knowing if this is a factory method for attaching the spreaders.? The through the mast pin has an inordinate amount of "sloop" (clearance between the mast through hole and the pin). Any advice will be appreciated since I've never seen spreaders mounted in this way and am concerned. Thanks for any help.? ? Hank Stein? ? Huron, Ohio From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Apr 6 13:16:21 2023 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 17:16:21 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: <2048111318.464875.1680797570065@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2048111318.464875.1680797570065.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2048111318.464875.1680797570065@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hank, That does sound odd and nonfactory. Any chance you could post a picture? Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 6, 2023, at 12:12 PM, Hank Stein via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?I am Hank Stein. I recently purchased a '93 Rhodes 22 (GBX22113A193). > > > The spreaders are connected with a cotter pin to a through the mast pin. -- that is, both spreaders are attached to a pin that goes through the mast. This seems an odd way to mount spreaders. Please, I would appreciate knowing if this is a factory method for attaching the spreaders. The through the mast pin has an inordinate amount of "sloop" (clearance between the mast through hole and the pin). > Any advice will be appreciated since I've never seen spreaders mounted in this way and am concerned. > Thanks for any help. > Hank Stein Huron, Ohio From peter at sunnybeeches.com Thu Apr 6 13:31:46 2023 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2023 10:31:46 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders Message-ID: Hank, I'm going to assume that you have an original General Boats mast, and that your mainsail furls up inside your mast (i.e. you have Inner Mast Furling, or IMF). Your spreaders should attach to brackets which are then attached to the mast. The spreaders are held in place by cotter pins (one each). The brackets are attached to the mast by a bolt that passes through the mast. Inside the mast, there should also be a compression sleeve, which prevents the bolt from compressing and deforming the mast. The bracket also provides attachment points for the lower shrouds. The spreaders can be pretty floppy when the mast is down. With the mast raised, the upper shrouds keep things in place. I've attached a picture of a spreader bracket from the Dwyer website. Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > On 2023-04-06, at 12:12:50 EDT, hankstein at aol.com wrote: > > I am Hank Stein.  I recently purchased a '93 Rhodes 22 (GBX22113A193). > > > The spreaders are connected with a cotter pin to a through the mast pin.  > --  that is, both spreaders are attached to a pin that goes through the > mast. This seems an odd way to mount spreaders.  Please, I would > appreciate knowing if this is a factory method for attaching the > spreaders.  The through the mast pin has an inordinate amount of "sloop" > (clearance between the mast through hole and the pin). > Any advice will be appreciated since I've never seen spreaders mounted in this > way and am concerned. > Thanks for any help. > Hank Stein    Huron, Ohio > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Spreader Bracket.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 7337 bytes Desc: not available URL: From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Apr 6 13:43:49 2023 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 17:43:49 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hank, If your boat doesn?t have the spreader sockets, what do the lower sidestays attach to at the mast? The OEM factory spreader bracket has the attachment points for the lower sidestays. Does your boat have 4 lower sidestays? Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 6, 2023, at 1:32 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > ?Hank, > > I'm going to assume that you have an original General Boats mast, and that your mainsail furls up inside your mast (i.e. you have Inner Mast Furling, or IMF). > > Your spreaders should attach to brackets which are then attached to the mast. The spreaders are held in place by cotter pins (one each). The brackets are attached to the mast by a bolt that passes through the mast. Inside the mast, there should also be a compression sleeve, which prevents the bolt from compressing and deforming the mast. > > The bracket also provides attachment points for the lower shrouds. > > The spreaders can be pretty floppy when the mast is down. With the mast raised, the upper shrouds keep things in place. > > I've attached a picture of a spreader bracket from the Dwyer website. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > >> On 2023-04-06, at 12:12:50 EDT, hankstein at aol.com wrote: >> >> I am Hank Stein.  I recently purchased a '93 Rhodes 22 (GBX22113A193). >> >> >> The spreaders are connected with a cotter pin to a through the mast pin.  >> --  that is, both spreaders are attached to a pin that goes through the >> mast. This seems an odd way to mount spreaders.  Please, I would >> appreciate knowing if this is a factory method for attaching the >> spreaders.  The through the mast pin has an inordinate amount of "sloop" >> (clearance between the mast through hole and the pin). >> Any advice will be appreciated since I've never seen spreaders mounted in this >> way and am concerned. >> Thanks for any help. >> Hank Stein    Huron, Ohio >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Spreader Bracket.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 7337 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From tvpolise at aol.com Thu Apr 6 16:24:38 2023 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 16:24:38 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8B1690B4-01F6-4133-A0DA-CCA330F043A3@aol.com> Peter, I recall previous conversations about a spreader ?cushion? made of starboard or some such materials. Do you have the physical dimensions of those cushions? > On Apr 6, 2023, at 1:31 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > ?Hank, > > I'm going to assume that you have an original General Boats mast, and that your mainsail furls up inside your mast (i.e. you have Inner Mast Furling, or IMF). > > Your spreaders should attach to brackets which are then attached to the mast. The spreaders are held in place by cotter pins (one each). The brackets are attached to the mast by a bolt that passes through the mast. Inside the mast, there should also be a compression sleeve, which prevents the bolt from compressing and deforming the mast. > > The bracket also provides attachment points for the lower shrouds. > > The spreaders can be pretty floppy when the mast is down. With the mast raised, the upper shrouds keep things in place. > > I've attached a picture of a spreader bracket from the Dwyer website. > > Peter Nyberg > Coventry, CT > s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) > >> On 2023-04-06, at 12:12:50 EDT, hankstein at aol.com wrote: >> >> I am Hank Stein.  I recently purchased a '93 Rhodes 22 (GBX22113A193). >> >> >> The spreaders are connected with a cotter pin to a through the mast pin.  >> --  that is, both spreaders are attached to a pin that goes through the >> mast. This seems an odd way to mount spreaders.  Please, I would >> appreciate knowing if this is a factory method for attaching the >> spreaders.  The through the mast pin has an inordinate amount of "sloop" >> (clearance between the mast through hole and the pin). >> Any advice will be appreciated since I've never seen spreaders mounted in this >> way and am concerned. >> Thanks for any help. >> Hank Stein    Huron, Ohio >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Spreader Bracket.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 7337 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From peter at sunnybeeches.com Thu Apr 6 17:44:41 2023 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2023 14:44:41 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders Message-ID: Tom, These are basically just non-metallic washers to isolate the aluminum mast from the stainless steel spreader bracket. The ones that came with my boat are a little bigger than the diameter of the spreaders. The 'official' ones from GB are slightly tapered to account for the curvature of the mast. As long as the separation of the mast from the bracket is achieved, no other aspect of these 'cushions' need be precise. --Peter > On 2023-04-06, at 16:24:38 EDT, THOMAS POLISE wrote: > > Peter, I recall previous conversations about a spreader ?cushion? made of > starboard or some such materials. Do you have the physical dimensions of those > cushions? > > From tvpolise at aol.com Thu Apr 6 18:08:10 2023 From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2023 18:08:10 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7982F4C9-02E6-48B3-B6D6-1E85ACC9E8DC@aol.com> Thanks > On Apr 6, 2023, at 5:52 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > ?Tom, > > These are basically just non-metallic washers to isolate the aluminum mast from the stainless steel spreader bracket. The ones that came with my boat are a little bigger than the diameter of the spreaders. The 'official' ones from GB are slightly tapered to account for the curvature of the mast. > > As long as the separation of the mast from the bracket is achieved, no other aspect of these 'cushions' need be precise. > > --Peter > >> On 2023-04-06, at 16:24:38 EDT, THOMAS POLISE wrote: >> >> Peter, I recall previous conversations about a spreader ?cushion? made of >> starboard or some such materials. Do you have the physical dimensions of those >> cushions? >> >> > From koatimundi100 at gmail.com Sun Apr 9 11:38:52 2023 From: koatimundi100 at gmail.com (peter klappert) Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2023 11:38:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Elco Electric Outboards and Old Salt Marine (FL) Message-ID: As a warning to my fellow Rhodes 22 owners, I am posting this email to Elco on FaceBook and here on the list. To Elco? This is far from the first time I?ve contacted you. My Rhodes 22 pocket-cruiser sailboat had been sitting in the lot at Old Salt Marine in Palmetto FL since last July, awaiting conversion from the Merc 9.9 BigFoot gas outboard to the Elco 9.9. In those 10 months NOTHING has been done to effect the change. It sits there on asphalt with its main sail rolled up inside the mast and the 160% Genoa rolled up around the forestay, baking in the Florida sun. I wonder if I?ll even have usable sails when I finally get it in the water. I brought Old Salt a large tarp and lines to cover the boat, and even that hasn?t been done. So I guess I have to tow the R22 to the nearest competent Elco dealership. Competent! Where do you suggest? I am posting this email on FaceBook and on the Rhodes 22 owners list serve as a warning to other boat owners, heading it Elco Electric Outboards and Old Salt Marine?Florida. BTW in July I will receive my new Candela C8 HT. Maybe I should just sell the Rhodes? -- *>>>>>>>>> *[image: Sailboat on Messenger]*<<<<<<<<<* *Peter Klappert5012 Bay State Road Palmetto, FL 34221* From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com Sun Apr 9 23:22:02 2023 From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 03:22:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Scupper question. References: <937135612.1221246.1681096922516.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <937135612.1221246.1681096922516@mail.yahoo.com> Hi All,?? Yesterday a friend and I picked up my new-to-me 86 Rhodes!? It was a long day and the sun would set soon, so I decided to do a quick project and remove the locks off the Lazarette and pop-top so I could get them re-keyed (seller didn't have the keys).? As I was working on the Lazarette, I looked down and saw the ground through a drain hole in the cockpit sole.? I hadn't previously noticed that and got nervous.? Is that what I should be seeing, or should there be something there to prevent water intrusion? Thanks,?? Peter ? | | Virus-free.www.avast.com | From kensimolo at gmail.com Sun Apr 9 23:49:04 2023 From: kensimolo at gmail.com (Ken Simolo) Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2023 23:49:04 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Scupper question. In-Reply-To: <937135612.1221246.1681096922516@mail.yahoo.com> References: <937135612.1221246.1681096922516.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <937135612.1221246.1681096922516@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Peter, They do have a drain like that. Ken On April 9, 2023 at 11:22:29 PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list ( rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org) wrote: Hi All, Yesterday a friend and I picked up my new-to-me 86 Rhodes! It was a long day and the sun would set soon, so I decided to do a quick project and remove the locks off the Lazarette and pop-top so I could get them re-keyed (seller didn't have the keys). As I was working on the Lazarette, I looked down and saw the ground through a drain hole in the cockpit sole. I hadn't previously noticed that and got nervous. Is that what I should be seeing, or should there be something there to prevent water intrusion? Thanks, Peter | | Virus-free.www.avast.com | From snstaum at gmail.com Mon Apr 10 06:16:34 2023 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 06:16:34 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Scupper question. In-Reply-To: <937135612.1221246.1681096922516@mail.yahoo.com> References: <937135612.1221246.1681096922516.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <937135612.1221246.1681096922516@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes Peter the cockpit is above water level and drains automatically through that radiator hose. No worries as long as the hose is in good shape. You can replace it by matching it up at an auto parts store. Welcome to da list!! *Thanks and Stay Well,* *Stephen Staum* s/v Pinafore Needham, MA On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 11:22?PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Hi All, Yesterday a friend and I picked up my new-to-me 86 Rhodes! It > was a long day and the sun would set soon, so I decided to do a quick > project and remove the locks off the Lazarette and pop-top so I could get > them re-keyed (seller didn't have the keys). As I was working on the > Lazarette, I looked down and saw the ground through a drain hole in the > cockpit sole. I hadn't previously noticed that and got nervous. Is that > what I should be seeing, or should there be something there to prevent > water intrusion? > > Thanks, Peter > > > > > > > > | | Virus-free.www.avast.com | > > From tavares0947 at gmail.com Mon Apr 10 06:22:52 2023 From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 06:22:52 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Scupper question. In-Reply-To: <937135612.1221246.1681096922516@mail.yahoo.com> References: <937135612.1221246.1681096922516.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <937135612.1221246.1681096922516@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Peter, Yes. You should see the ground through that cockpit floor drain. It is almost a straight shot-- about 8" or so. The cockpit floor is above the waterline so you won't have any water backing up into the cockpit under normal sailing conditions. If you have a cockpit full of people, you may have some water coming in, and some owners keep a plug handy to avoid wet feet. The hull end of this drain will be underwater. This is a critical through-hull fitting. A leak at that fitting or the hose will fill the boat with water. The lazarette on most boats is connected to the cabin bilge area, so water getting into the laz will flow under the cockpit and flotation foam into the cabin, unless a previous owner built a hard bulkhead. A Rhodes 22 won't sink completely though. If this drain or the through-hull looks suspect at all, I'd suggest replacing it and/or the hose so you'll have peace of mind. Todd T. On Sun, Apr 9, 2023, 11:22 PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Hi All, Yesterday a friend and I picked up my new-to-me 86 Rhodes! It > was a long day and the sun would set soon, so I decided to do a quick > project and remove the locks off the Lazarette and pop-top so I could get > them re-keyed (seller didn't have the keys). As I was working on the > Lazarette, I looked down and saw the ground through a drain hole in the > cockpit sole. I hadn't previously noticed that and got nervous. Is that > what I should be seeing, or should there be something there to prevent > water intrusion? > > Thanks, Peter > > > > > > > > | | Virus-free.www.avast.com | > > From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Mon Apr 10 08:23:51 2023 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2023 08:23:51 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Elco Electric Outboards and Old Salt Marine (FL) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That has to be so frustrating. Stick to your guns! However, don?t give up on your idea of electrifying the boat. Chris Geankoplis XENOS On Sun, Apr 9, 2023 at 11:39 AM peter klappert wrote: > As a warning to my fellow Rhodes 22 owners, I am posting this email to Elco > on FaceBook and here on the list. > > To Elco? > > This is far from the first time I?ve contacted you. > > My Rhodes 22 pocket-cruiser sailboat had been sitting in the lot at Old > Salt Marine in Palmetto FL since last July, awaiting conversion from the > Merc 9.9 BigFoot gas outboard to the Elco 9.9. > > In those 10 months NOTHING has been done to effect the change. It sits > there on asphalt with its main sail rolled up inside the mast and the 160% > Genoa rolled up around the forestay, baking in the Florida sun. I wonder if > I?ll even have usable sails when I finally get it in the water. I brought > Old Salt a large tarp and lines to cover the boat, and even that hasn?t > been done. > > So I guess I have to tow the R22 to the nearest competent Elco dealership. > Competent! > > Where do you suggest? > > I am posting this email on FaceBook and on the Rhodes 22 owners list serve > as a warning to other boat owners, heading it Elco Electric Outboards and > Old Salt Marine?Florida. > > BTW in July I will receive my new Candela C8 HT. Maybe I should just sell > the Rhodes? > -- > *>>>>>>>>> *[image: Sailboat on Messenger]*<<<<<<<<<* > > *Peter Klappert5012 Bay State Road Palmetto, FL 34221* > From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 13 08:28:39 2023 From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2023 12:28:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top support References: <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928@mail.yahoo.com> Hi All, Quick question. Yesterday was my 1st opportunity to spend a few hours on my boat running down some projects. The supports for the pop top are not in place and therefore are in the way. Looking at how they're supposed to attach it looks as though there should be some plastic washer-like fitting that the tube fits through that is bolted to the top and that prevents the tube from coming out of place, or falling into the cabin when there is no load. You can see in the attached image that mine are broken. Is there a ready source for these parts, or should I warm up my 3d printer (greatest boat tool ever!). It appears to me that these washers don't carry much load (and can therefore be printed) is that correct? I've never seen this pop top in action, so I'm not quite sure how it all works. Thanks, Peter -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20230412_180243.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2279192 bytes Desc: not available URL: From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Apr 13 10:37:30 2023 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2023 14:37:30 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top support In-Reply-To: <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Peter, You could 3-D print it if you want. But, I would think your local hardware store would carry nylon washers in that size. You would have to drill out the 2 holes. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 13, 2023, at 8:28 AM, Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Hi All, > Quick question. Yesterday was my 1st opportunity to spend a few hours on my boat running down some projects. The supports for the pop top are not in place and therefore are in the way. Looking at how they're supposed to attach it looks as though there should be some plastic washer-like fitting that the tube fits through that is bolted to the top and that prevents the tube from coming out of place, or falling into the cabin when there is no load. You can see in the attached image that mine are broken. Is there a ready source for these parts, or should I warm up my 3d printer (greatest boat tool ever!). It appears to me that these washers don't carry much load (and can therefore be printed) is that correct? I've never seen this pop top in action, so I'm not quite sure how it all works. > > Thanks, > Peter > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20230412_180243.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 2279192 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Apr 13 10:37:31 2023 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2023 14:37:31 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top support Message-ID: Peter, You could 3-D print it if you want. But, I would think your local hardware store would carry nylon washers in that size. You would have to drill out the 2 holes. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 13, 2023, at 8:28 AM, Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Hi All, > Quick question. Yesterday was my 1st opportunity to spend a few hours on my boat running down some projects. The supports for the pop top are not in place and therefore are in the way. Looking at how they're supposed to attach it looks as though there should be some plastic washer-like fitting that the tube fits through that is bolted to the top and that prevents the tube from coming out of place, or falling into the cabin when there is no load. You can see in the attached image that mine are broken. Is there a ready source for these parts, or should I warm up my 3d printer (greatest boat tool ever!). It appears to me that these washers don't carry much load (and can therefore be printed) is that correct? I've never seen this pop top in action, so I'm not quite sure how it all works. > > Thanks, > Peter > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20230412_180243.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 2279192 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From jpd9668 at gmail.com Thu Apr 13 18:36:57 2023 From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668 at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2023 18:36:57 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top support In-Reply-To: References: <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003901d96e58$7864f540$692edfc0$@gmail.com> How about making one out of Starboard? -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2023 10:38 AM To: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com; The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top support Peter, You could 3-D print it if you want. But, I would think your local hardware store would carry nylon washers in that size. You would have to drill out the 2 holes. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 13, 2023, at 8:28 AM, Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Hi All, > Quick question. Yesterday was my 1st opportunity to spend a few hours on my boat running down some projects. The supports for the pop top are not in place and therefore are in the way. Looking at how they're supposed to attach it looks as though there should be some plastic washer-like fitting that the tube fits through that is bolted to the top and that prevents the tube from coming out of place, or falling into the cabin when there is no load. You can see in the attached image that mine are broken. Is there a ready source for these parts, or should I warm up my 3d printer (greatest boat tool ever!). It appears to me that these washers don't carry much load (and can therefore be printed) is that correct? I've never seen this pop top in action, so I'm not quite sure how it all works. > > Thanks, > Peter > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > scrubbed... > Name: 20230412_180243.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 2279192 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com Thu Apr 13 21:19:56 2023 From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2023 21:19:56 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top support In-Reply-To: <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I?ve made those ?doughnuts ? several times over the years, maybe 3 or 4 times for various Rhodes and even an Ensenada. Starboard, (well a Walmart cutting board) a Harbor Freight holesaw kit and table saw or jigsaw. Bob? your uncle. That being said, 3-D printing is just too cool to pass up. Let us know how it goes, be sure to post pictures of the process. Chris Geankoplis XENOS On Thu, Apr 13, 2023 at 8:28 AM Peter via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Hi All, > Quick question. Yesterday was my 1st opportunity to spend a few hours > on my boat running down some projects. The supports for the pop top are > not in place and therefore are in the way. Looking at how they're supposed > to attach it looks as though there should be some plastic washer-like > fitting that the tube fits through that is bolted to the top and that > prevents the tube from coming out of place, or falling into the cabin when > there is no load. You can see in the attached image that mine are broken. > Is there a ready source for these parts, or should I warm up my 3d printer > (greatest boat tool ever!). It appears to me that these washers don't > carry much load (and can therefore be printed) is that correct? I've > never seen this pop top in action, so I'm not quite sure how it all works. > > Thanks, > Peter > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20230412_180243.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 2279192 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: < > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20230413/3aeb8364/attachment.jpg > > > From bgarrant at gmail.com Tue Apr 18 15:20:29 2023 From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2023 15:20:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Non-Skid guidance Message-ID: I have 2000/2017 refurb Rhodes. I keep the boat in a slip during sailing season and most times the gunnel is below the pier so crew has to step down onto the gunnel. The non-skid sections are the cockpit floor, foredeck and side-decks. The nonskid is textured but virtually smooth so it provides no non-skid functionality. 1. Any suggestions for making the current non-skid areas functional as non-skid? 2. Adding non-skid areas? 2a. To the cockpit gunnels where crew boards the boat. 2b. And to the bench area below the gunnel where crew steps down from the gunnel to the bench to the cockpit. Any suggestions or warnings for this? Thanks Bob Garrant s/v Sail la Vie Kent Island, MD -- null From sloopblueheron at gmail.com Tue Apr 18 15:26:45 2023 From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2023 15:26:45 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Non-Skid guidance In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob, Paint with sand mixed into Awlgrip. Regards, Rick Lange On Tue, Apr 18, 2023 at 3:20?PM Bob Garrant wrote: > I have 2000/2017 refurb Rhodes. > I keep the boat in a slip during sailing season and most times the gunnel > is below the pier so crew has to step down onto the gunnel. > > The non-skid sections are the cockpit floor, foredeck and side-decks. > > The nonskid is textured but virtually smooth so it provides no non-skid > functionality. > 1. Any suggestions for making the current non-skid areas functional as > non-skid? > 2. Adding non-skid areas? > 2a. To the cockpit gunnels where crew boards the boat. > 2b. And to the bench area below the gunnel where crew steps down from the > gunnel to the bench to the cockpit. > Any suggestions or warnings for this? > > Thanks > Bob Garrant > s/v Sail la Vie > Kent Island, MD > > -- > null > From mark at whipplefamily.com Tue Apr 18 16:16:07 2023 From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2023 16:16:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Non-Skid guidance In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob, There's a large variety of non-skid tapes out there and some are advertised as water proof. Tape tends to be a shorter-term solution than paint, but easier to apply. There's also many options for marine non-slip mats, some of which have the appearance of teak. Treadmaster was one that was very popular for a while. The mats will have a longer lifespan than tape. The most durable solution will be paint with some kind of grit added to it. There are also paints with the grit already in it. I tried a coating called Durabak many years back that had ground-up rubber bits in it. It was rather tricky to work with. Painting will also require the greatest amount of preparation. Practical Sailor has a free article outlining the process: https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/refinishing-your-boats-non-skid-deck If you're a subscriber you can also find articles testing various non-skid paint options. For the section of the gunnel where you step down from the dock, you could put a few small strips of teak to provide some traction. There's a type of plastic grating called DriDek that you can lay over your cockpit sole. Doesn't require much prep, but you'd have to screw the edges to the cockpit sole. DriDeck comes in 1' x 1' squares that interlock. Some feel it can be hard on bare feet. Like a lot of boat projects, the longest-lasting solutions will require the greatest amount of effort! But painting is the way I would go if time allowed. Hope that helps, Mark 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* On Tue, Apr 18, 2023 at 3:20?PM Bob Garrant wrote: > I have 2000/2017 refurb Rhodes. > I keep the boat in a slip during sailing season and most times the gunnel > is below the pier so crew has to step down onto the gunnel. > > The non-skid sections are the cockpit floor, foredeck and side-decks. > > The nonskid is textured but virtually smooth so it provides no non-skid > functionality. > 1. Any suggestions for making the current non-skid areas functional as > non-skid? > 2. Adding non-skid areas? > 2a. To the cockpit gunnels where crew boards the boat. > 2b. And to the bench area below the gunnel where crew steps down from the > gunnel to the bench to the cockpit. > Any suggestions or warnings for this? > > Thanks > Bob Garrant > s/v Sail la Vie > Kent Island, MD > > -- > null > From bgarrant at gmail.com Tue Apr 18 16:25:17 2023 From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2023 16:25:17 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Non-Skid guidance In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Rick On Tue, Apr 18, 2023 at 3:27 PM Rick Lange wrote: > Bob, > > Paint with sand mixed into Awlgrip. > > Regards, > > Rick Lange > > > On Tue, Apr 18, 2023 at 3:20?PM Bob Garrant wrote: > > > I have 2000/2017 refurb Rhodes. > > I keep the boat in a slip during sailing season and most times the gunnel > > is below the pier so crew has to step down onto the gunnel. > > > > The non-skid sections are the cockpit floor, foredeck and side-decks. > > > > The nonskid is textured but virtually smooth so it provides no non-skid > > functionality. > > 1. Any suggestions for making the current non-skid areas functional as > > non-skid? > > 2. Adding non-skid areas? > > 2a. To the cockpit gunnels where crew boards the boat. > > 2b. And to the bench area below the gunnel where crew steps down from the > > gunnel to the bench to the cockpit. > > Any suggestions or warnings for this? > > > > Thanks > > Bob Garrant > > s/v Sail la Vie > > Kent Island, MD > > > > -- > > null > > > -- null From bgarrant at gmail.com Tue Apr 18 16:25:29 2023 From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2023 16:25:29 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Non-Skid guidance In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Mark On Tue, Apr 18, 2023 at 4:16 PM Mark Whipple wrote: > Bob, > > There's a large variety of non-skid tapes out there and some are advertised > as water proof. Tape tends to be a shorter-term solution than paint, but > easier to apply. There's also many options for marine non-slip mats, some > of which have the appearance of teak. Treadmaster was one that was very > popular for a while. The mats will have a longer lifespan than tape. > > The most durable solution will be paint with some kind of grit added to it. > There are also paints with the grit already in it. I tried a coating called > Durabak many years back that had ground-up rubber bits in it. It was rather > tricky to work with. Painting will also require the greatest amount of > preparation. Practical Sailor has a free article outlining the process: > https://www.practical-sailor.com/blog/refinishing-your-boats-non-skid-deck > If > you're a subscriber you can also find articles testing various non-skid > paint options. > > For the section of the gunnel where you step down from the dock, you could > put a few small strips of teak to provide some traction. > > There's a type of plastic grating called DriDek that you can lay over your > cockpit sole. Doesn't require much prep, but you'd have to screw the edges > to the cockpit sole. DriDeck comes in 1' x 1' squares that interlock. Some > feel it can be hard on bare feet. > > Like a lot of boat projects, the longest-lasting solutions will require the > greatest amount of effort! But painting is the way I would go if time > allowed. > > Hope that helps, > Mark > > 2000 R22 *Luna Mia* > > On Tue, Apr 18, 2023 at 3:20?PM Bob Garrant wrote: > > > I have 2000/2017 refurb Rhodes. > > I keep the boat in a slip during sailing season and most times the gunnel > > is below the pier so crew has to step down onto the gunnel. > > > > The non-skid sections are the cockpit floor, foredeck and side-decks. > > > > The nonskid is textured but virtually smooth so it provides no non-skid > > functionality. > > 1. Any suggestions for making the current non-skid areas functional as > > non-skid? > > 2. Adding non-skid areas? > > 2a. To the cockpit gunnels where crew boards the boat. > > 2b. And to the bench area below the gunnel where crew steps down from the > > gunnel to the bench to the cockpit. > > Any suggestions or warnings for this? > > > > Thanks > > Bob Garrant > > s/v Sail la Vie > > Kent Island, MD > > > > -- > > null > > > -- null From peter at sunnybeeches.com Tue Apr 18 17:22:37 2023 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2023 14:22:37 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Non-Skid guidance Message-ID: I did the sand and paint thing that Rick seems to be suggesting about 50 years ago when I was in the Coast Guard. Just to be clear, this involves sprinkling sand onto wet paint, not mixing sand into paint. As I recall, it left a surface that would take skin off if you fell on it. I've been noodling over the possibility of doing a non-skid project on my boat, and the TotalBoat product named TotalTread has caught my eye. I have no experience with it, but it seems worth considering. Whatever you decide to use, I hope you'll let us all know how it works out. --Peter From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Tue Apr 18 18:36:57 2023 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (Jeff Smith Photo) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2023 18:36:57 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Non skid guidance Message-ID: On my previous boat a J/30, I used a latex paint called Kiwi Grip which is applied with a textured roller. I found the textured roller from the hardware store worked better than the one that came with the kit. The abrasion factor could be adjusted by method of application. It worked very well and the color was adjusted by mixing Grey and white, etc. Best Regards Jeff Smith www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net 732-236-1368 From jpd9668 at gmail.com Tue Apr 18 18:43:39 2023 From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2023 18:43:39 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Non-Skid guidance In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <643f1d1b.c80a0220.83490.0099@mx.google.com> ?Hey Bob, move to a floating dock! LOL! I know it's not always possible. We made the move and never regretted it!Joe DempseyM/V VoyagerTrojan 42 1968Former Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob Garrant Date: 4/18/23 4:25 PM (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Non-Skid guidance Thanks RickOn Tue, Apr 18, 2023 at 3:27 PM Rick Lange wrote:> Bob,>> Paint with sand mixed into Awlgrip.>> Regards,>> Rick Lange>>> On Tue, Apr 18, 2023 at 3:20?PM Bob Garrant wrote:>> > I have 2000/2017 refurb Rhodes.> > I keep the boat in a slip during sailing season and most times the gunnel> > is below the pier so crew has to step down onto the gunnel.> >> > The non-skid sections are the cockpit floor, foredeck and side-decks.> >> > The nonskid is textured but virtually smooth so it provides no non-skid> > functionality.> > 1. Any suggestions for making the current non-skid areas functional as> > non-skid?> > 2. Adding non-skid areas?> > 2a.? To the cockpit gunnels where crew boards the boat.> > 2b. And to the bench area below the gunnel where crew steps down from the> > gunnel to the bench to the cockpit.> > Any suggestions or warnings for this?> >> > Thanks> > Bob Garrant> > s/v Sail la Vie> > Kent Island, MD> >> > --> > null> >>-- null From gstewart.gm at gmail.com Tue Apr 18 23:44:07 2023 From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2023 23:44:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Non-Skid guidance In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: When I rebuilt my deck I had to cover the nonskid baked into the gelcoat with a new fiberglass skin. I used Kiwi Grip and have been very satisfied. It has been at least 10 years since it was applied and it has lasted perfectly. Graham Stewart Agile 76 On Tue, Apr 18, 2023 at 5:22?PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > I did the sand and paint thing that Rick seems to be suggesting about 50 > years ago when I was in the Coast Guard. Just to be clear, this involves > sprinkling sand onto wet paint, not mixing sand into paint. As I recall, > it left a surface that would take skin off if you fell on it. > > I've been noodling over the possibility of doing a non-skid project on my > boat, and the TotalBoat product named TotalTread has caught my eye. I have > no experience with it, but it seems worth considering. > > Whatever you decide to use, I hope you'll let us all know how it works out. > > --Peter > > From snstaum at gmail.com Wed Apr 19 06:27:23 2023 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2023 06:27:23 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bedding Cabin Rails Message-ID: My 1990/2016 Rhodes came with wooden cabin rails and handles which are in need of regular maintenance. I scored a set of used stainless rails and handles like my older Rhodes had. The mount holes do not match. I am looking for ideas on how to bed the new rails/handles and also how to neatly cover the remaining holes from the old rails. *Thanks and Stay Well,* *Stephen Staum* *s/v Pinafore* *Needham, MA* From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com Wed Apr 19 06:42:59 2023 From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (Jeff Smith Photo) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2023 06:42:59 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Poli Glow Miracle Message-ID: The dark blue gel coat on Radiant, my 2009/2016 R22 was badly chalked. Even after wet sanding and bi-annual waxing. I hired a hard working day laborer to do the Poli Ox on the hull, which he completed in six hours. I then applied 5 coats of Poli Glow as per instructions. It looks like a new hull. I'm now waiting for an over 60 degree day to do the cockpit and cabin top. How do you send a JPEG via G-MAIL to the list? Best Regards Jeff Smith www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net 732-236-1368 From snstaum at gmail.com Thu Apr 20 08:50:50 2023 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2023 08:50:50 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bedding Cabin Rails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My 1990/2016 Rhodes came with wooden cabin rails and handles which are in need of regular maintenance. I scored a set of used stainless rails and handles like my older Rhodes had. The mount holes do not match. I am looking for ideas on how to bed the new rails/handles and also how to neatly cover the remaining holes from the old rails. *Thanks and Stay Well,* *Stephen Staum* *s/v Pinafore* *Needham, MA* From peter at sunnybeeches.com Thu Apr 20 10:08:26 2023 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2023 07:08:26 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bedding Cabin Rails Message-ID: Stephen, I would use the 'drill-fill-drill' method for new holes and bed with butyl. If you're not familiar with 'drill-fill-drill', let me know and I can explain further. As for the old holes, I would fill with thickened epoxy and then cover will gel-coat repair. There's no way to make the repair invisible. --Peter > On 2023-04-20, at 08:50:50 EDT, Stephen Staum wrote: > > My 1990/2016 Rhodes came with wooden cabin rails and handles which are in need > of regular maintenance. > I scored a set of used stainless rails and handles like my older Rhodes had. > The mount holes do not match. I am looking for ideas on how to bed the new > rails/handles and also how to neatly cover the remaining holes from the old > rails. > > *Thanks and Stay Well,* > > *Stephen Staum* > *s/v Pinafore* > *Needham, MA* > From canusmajor54 at gmail.com Thu Apr 20 11:04:00 2023 From: canusmajor54 at gmail.com (Jeff Kantor) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2023 11:04:00 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bedding Cabin Rails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Peter is certainly correct. No way to make invisible. Maybe cut a strip of white plastic the length of the new rail and epoxy it over the entire length of each rail. Best practices says fill the old holes. Drill Fill Drill for sure, Epoxy this strip directly to cabin top, set new rail in butyl gasket on top of epoxied strip(s). The epoxied strip will add protection for the bolt holes and cover all your sins. On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 10:08 AM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Stephen, > > I would use the 'drill-fill-drill' method for new holes and bed with > butyl. If you're not familiar with 'drill-fill-drill', let me know and I > can explain further. > > As for the old holes, I would fill with thickened epoxy and then cover > will gel-coat repair. There's no way to make the repair invisible. > > --Peter > > > On 2023-04-20, at 08:50:50 EDT, Stephen Staum wrote: > > > > My 1990/2016 Rhodes came with wooden cabin rails and handles which are > in need > > of regular maintenance. > > I scored a set of used stainless rails and handles like my older Rhodes > had. > > The mount holes do not match. I am looking for ideas on how to bed the > new > > rails/handles and also how to neatly cover the remaining holes from the > old > > rails. > > > > *Thanks and Stay Well,* > > > > *Stephen Staum* > > *s/v Pinafore* > > *Needham, MA* > > > > -- Jeff Kantor 917.825.5380 From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Apr 20 11:23:17 2023 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2023 15:23:17 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bedding Cabin Rails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi All, Dumb question - will the bases for the new rails cover the old holes in the cabin top even if the holes don?t line up with the holes in the new bases? If so; then, you don?t have to worry about the finished appearance of the filled holes. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 20, 2023, at 11:04 AM, Jeff Kantor wrote: > > ?Peter is certainly correct. No way to make invisible. Maybe cut a strip > of white plastic the length of the new rail and epoxy it over the entire > length of each rail. Best practices says fill the old holes. Drill Fill > Drill for sure, Epoxy this strip directly to cabin top, set new rail in > butyl gasket on top of epoxied strip(s). The epoxied strip will add > protection for the bolt holes and cover all your sins. > >> On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 10:08 AM Peter Nyberg >> wrote: >> >> Stephen, >> >> I would use the 'drill-fill-drill' method for new holes and bed with >> butyl. If you're not familiar with 'drill-fill-drill', let me know and I >> can explain further. >> >> As for the old holes, I would fill with thickened epoxy and then cover >> will gel-coat repair. There's no way to make the repair invisible. >> >> --Peter >> >>>> On 2023-04-20, at 08:50:50 EDT, Stephen Staum wrote: >>> >>> My 1990/2016 Rhodes came with wooden cabin rails and handles which are >> in need >>> of regular maintenance. >>> I scored a set of used stainless rails and handles like my older Rhodes >> had. >>> The mount holes do not match. I am looking for ideas on how to bed the >> new >>> rails/handles and also how to neatly cover the remaining holes from the >> old >>> rails. >>> >>> *Thanks and Stay Well,* >>> >>> *Stephen Staum* >>> *s/v Pinafore* >>> *Needham, MA* >>> >> >> -- > > > Jeff Kantor > 917.825.5380 From peter at sunnybeeches.com Thu Apr 20 13:15:35 2023 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2023 10:15:35 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bedding Cabin Rails Message-ID: If it were my rail, and my luck was that good, I'd also give serious consideration to buying some lottery tickets :^) --Peter > On 2023-04-20, at 11:23:17 EDT, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > Hi All, > > Dumb question - will the bases for the new rails cover the old holes in the > cabin top even if the holes don?t line up with the holes in the new bases? If > so; then, you don?t have to worry about the finished appearance of the filled > holes. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from my iPhone > > From ric at stottarchitecture.com Thu Apr 20 14:13:32 2023 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2023 14:13:32 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bedding Cabin Rails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1B7FCCB0-D857-4DFE-944E-87693E790F03@stottarchitecture.com> I was going to stay out of this one, but I have to weigh-in. I have wood grab rails also and I have to say, I like them much better than the stainless ones. Yes they require maintenance but the look is worth the price. My dad left them natural and only teak oiled them once a year. I have varnished them. This year I plan to make covers for them out of an old sail cover. It will extend the life of my varnish job for years. In fact, I bet that varnish and covers would take less time and energy than replacing them with SS rials and will always look better in my opinion. That? my 2? Ric Dadventure HBNY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP ric at stottarchitecture.com O -631-283-1777 C- 516-965-3164 > On Apr 20, 2023, at 1:15 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote: > > If it were my rail, and my luck was that good, I'd also give serious consideration to buying some lottery tickets :^) > > --Peter > >> On 2023-04-20, at 11:23:17 EDT, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: >> >> Hi All, >> >> Dumb question - will the bases for the new rails cover the old holes in the >> cabin top even if the holes don?t line up with the holes in the new bases? If >> so; then, you don?t have to worry about the finished appearance of the filled >> holes. >> >> Roger Pihlaja >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> > From snstaum at gmail.com Thu Apr 20 17:45:33 2023 From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2023 17:45:33 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bedding Cabin Rails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Peter if you could explain the drill-fill-drill method that would be great. I assume I drill a larger hole, fill it with epoxy then drill a smaller pilot hole for the screws. That was my plan. Let me know if that makes sense. Also, what is butyl? Is that a sealant for bedding the new rails? FYI, the new rails will not cover the old holes. In a different life I could appreciate the esthetic of the wooden rails. In this life, I would rather sail than refinish and my wooden rails really look terrible. Thanks to all and good sailing!! *Thanks and Stay Well,* *Stephen Staum* *s/v Pinafore* *Needham, MA* On Thu, Apr 20, 2023 at 10:08?AM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Stephen, > > I would use the 'drill-fill-drill' method for new holes and bed with > butyl. If you're not familiar with 'drill-fill-drill', let me know and I > can explain further. > > As for the old holes, I would fill with thickened epoxy and then cover > will gel-coat repair. There's no way to make the repair invisible. > > --Peter > > > On 2023-04-20, at 08:50:50 EDT, Stephen Staum wrote: > > > > My 1990/2016 Rhodes came with wooden cabin rails and handles which are > in need > > of regular maintenance. > > I scored a set of used stainless rails and handles like my older Rhodes > had. > > The mount holes do not match. I am looking for ideas on how to bed the > new > > rails/handles and also how to neatly cover the remaining holes from the > old > > rails. > > > > *Thanks and Stay Well,* > > > > *Stephen Staum* > > *s/v Pinafore* > > *Needham, MA* > > > > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Thu Apr 20 21:36:21 2023 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2023 18:36:21 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bedding Cabin Rails Message-ID: Stephen, You seem to understand the concept of drill-fill-drill. I will generally make the larger hole around 2.5 to 3 times the size of the final pilot hole. Butyl is a sealant. I know Defender has it, but it shouldn't be hard to find. It is generally sold as a long strip or 'tape'. You cut off a section and work it like 'Play-Doh'. It seems to stay 'goopy' forever. Whatever you don't use will keep for years, as opposed to most sealant that comes in a squeeze tube. --Peter > On 2023-04-20, at 17:45:33 EDT, Stephen Staum wrote: > > Peter if you could explain the drill-fill-drill method that would be great. I > assume I drill a larger hole, fill it with epoxy then drill a smaller pilot hole > for the screws. That was my plan. Let me know if that makes sense. > Also, what is butyl? Is that a sealant for bedding the new rails? FYI, the new > rails will not cover the old holes. > In a different life I could appreciate the esthetic of the wooden rails. In this > life, I would rather sail than refinish and my wooden rails really look > terrible. > Thanks to all and good sailing!! > > > *Thanks and Stay Well,* > > *Stephen Staum* > *s/v Pinafore* > > *Needham, MA* > > > > From mark-olson at verizon.net Thu Apr 20 21:51:55 2023 From: mark-olson at verizon.net (Mark Olson) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2023 21:51:55 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Asymmetrical Spinnaker for sale References: <2af90471-4821-b24a-8e98-8ec60f4f33e2.ref@verizon.net> Message-ID: <2af90471-4821-b24a-8e98-8ec60f4f33e2@verizon.net> Have sold my Rhodes.? New owner didn't want the asymmetrical spinnaker so I'm selling it.? Attached is a picture of it in the bag.? I've never used it and I don't think the previous owner used it much.? It looks to be in excellent condition. I did some looking and found www.baconsails.com.? They are in Annapolis MD.? They don't have any Rhodes 22 asymmetrical spinnakers for sale.? Asymmetrical spinnakers for other 22' boats start at about $600.? New ones start at about $1,200. https://baconsails.com/bacon/select_sailboat_API.php Offering first to the Rhodes list for $300 plus shipping.? If you live close enough to Ridgefield Park NJ you are welcome to pick it up. Mark Olson -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20230420_155159.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4420534 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mark-olson at verizon.net Thu Apr 20 21:52:46 2023 From: mark-olson at verizon.net (Mark Olson) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2023 21:52:46 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Asymmetrical Spinnaker for sale In-Reply-To: <2af90471-4821-b24a-8e98-8ec60f4f33e2.ref@verizon.net> References: <2af90471-4821-b24a-8e98-8ec60f4f33e2.ref@verizon.net> Message-ID: <34f6d5db-66ee-4db2-e237-07eec31c79d5@verizon.net> Have sold my Rhodes.? New owner didn't want the asymmetrical spinnaker so I'm selling it.? Attached is a picture of it in the bag.? I've never used it and I don't think the previous owner used it much.? It looks to be in excellent condition. I did some looking and found www.baconsails.com.? They are in Annapolis MD.? They don't have any Rhodes 22 asymmetrical spinnakers for sale.? Asymmetrical spinnakers for other 22' boats start at about $600.? New ones start at about $1,200. https://baconsails.com/bacon/select_sailboat_API.php Offering first to the Rhodes list for $300 plus shipping.? If you live close enough to Ridgefield Park NJ you are welcome to pick it up. Mark Olson Mark-Olson at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20230420_155159.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4420534 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ric at stottarchitecture.com Fri Apr 21 07:10:20 2023 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2023 07:10:20 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Asymmetrical Spinnaker for sale In-Reply-To: <34f6d5db-66ee-4db2-e237-07eec31c79d5@verizon.net> References: <34f6d5db-66ee-4db2-e237-07eec31c79d5@verizon.net> Message-ID: I would like to purchase that sail Ric Dadventure HBNY Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 20, 2023, at 9:53 PM, Mark Olson via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Have sold my Rhodes. New owner didn't want the asymmetrical spinnaker so I'm selling it. Attached is a picture of it in the bag. I've never used it and I don't think the previous owner used it much. It looks to be in excellent condition. > > I did some looking and found www.baconsails.com. They are in Annapolis MD. They don't have any Rhodes 22 asymmetrical spinnakers for sale. Asymmetrical spinnakers for other 22' boats start at about $600. New ones start at about $1,200. https://baconsails.com/bacon/select_sailboat_API.php > > Offering first to the Rhodes list for $300 plus shipping. If you live close enough to Ridgefield Park NJ you are welcome to pick it up. > > Mark Olson > > Mark-Olson at verizon.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20230420_155159.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 4420534 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From ric at stottarchitecture.com Fri Apr 21 07:11:58 2023 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2023 07:11:58 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Asymmetrical Spinnaker for sale In-Reply-To: <34f6d5db-66ee-4db2-e237-07eec31c79d5@verizon.net> References: <34f6d5db-66ee-4db2-e237-07eec31c79d5@verizon.net> Message-ID: Please email me directly or cell Ric at stottarchitecture 516-965-3164 Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 20, 2023, at 9:53 PM, Mark Olson via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Have sold my Rhodes. New owner didn't want the asymmetrical spinnaker so I'm selling it. Attached is a picture of it in the bag. I've never used it and I don't think the previous owner used it much. It looks to be in excellent condition. > > I did some looking and found www.baconsails.com. They are in Annapolis MD. They don't have any Rhodes 22 asymmetrical spinnakers for sale. Asymmetrical spinnakers for other 22' boats start at about $600. New ones start at about $1,200. https://baconsails.com/bacon/select_sailboat_API.php > > Offering first to the Rhodes list for $300 plus shipping. If you live close enough to Ridgefield Park NJ you are welcome to pick it up. > > Mark Olson > > Mark-Olson at verizon.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 20230420_155159.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 4420534 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: From tavares0947 at gmail.com Fri Apr 21 07:45:58 2023 From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2023 07:45:58 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bedding Cabin Rails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If you buy butyl tape, make sure it's actually butyl tape. There are other products advertised as butyl but are not. Also butyl tape is something that I would suggest you buy in person at your local marine supply store and not over the internet. I bought some that was trash so I tossed it. I bought a replacement roll online from Sailrite and it was just as bad...all melted together, it was a mess. I managed to scrape and pinch up enough to use on my rails but it was another $20 wasted with the tax and shipping and very messy. Todd T On Thu, Apr 20, 2023, 9:36 PM Peter Nyberg wrote: > Stephen, > > You seem to understand the concept of drill-fill-drill. I will generally > make the larger hole around 2.5 to 3 times the size of the final pilot hole. > > Butyl is a sealant. I know Defender has it, but it shouldn't be hard to > find. It is generally sold as a long strip or 'tape'. You cut off a > section and work it like 'Play-Doh'. It seems to stay 'goopy' forever. > Whatever you don't use will keep for years, as opposed to most sealant that > comes in a squeeze tube. > > --Peter > > > On 2023-04-20, at 17:45:33 EDT, Stephen Staum wrote: > > > > Peter if you could explain the drill-fill-drill method that would be > great. I > > assume I drill a larger hole, fill it with epoxy then drill a smaller > pilot hole > > for the screws. That was my plan. Let me know if that makes sense. > > Also, what is butyl? Is that a sealant for bedding the new rails? FYI, > the new > > rails will not cover the old holes. > > In a different life I could appreciate the esthetic of the wooden rails. > In this > > life, I would rather sail than refinish and my wooden rails really look > > terrible. > > Thanks to all and good sailing!! > > > > > > *Thanks and Stay Well,* > > > > *Stephen Staum* > > *s/v Pinafore* > > > > *Needham, MA* > > > > > > > > > > From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 24 11:34:44 2023 From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2023 15:34:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top support In-Reply-To: References: <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <179303798.6276764.1682350485989@mail.yahoo.com> Hi All, Just following up. I went ahead and printed some bushings for my pop top. I suspect that Roger is correct and ABS plastic is not the best material for the job, but I'm tight for time and would like to get in the water in a few weeks and this solution will last until I get a chance to fabricate a better one sometime this summer. I've included a couple of pictures for those who are curious. As always, thanks for the help. Peter On Thursday, April 13, 2023, 09:20:08 PM EDT, Chris Geankoplis wrote: I?ve made those ?doughnuts ? several times over the years, maybe 3 or 4 times for various Rhodes and even an Ensenada. Starboard, (well a Walmart cutting board) a Harbor Freight holesaw kit and table saw or jigsaw. Bob? your uncle.? That being said, 3-D printing is just too cool to pass up. Let us know how it goes, be sure to post pictures of the process.Chris GeankoplisXENOS? On Thu, Apr 13, 2023 at 8:28 AM Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: Hi All, ? ?Quick question.? Yesterday was my 1st opportunity to spend a few hours on my boat running down some projects.? ?The supports for the pop top are not in place and therefore are in the way.? Looking at how they're supposed to attach it looks as though there should be some plastic washer-like fitting that the tube fits through that is bolted to the top and that prevents the tube from coming out of place, or falling into the cabin when there is no load.? You can see in the attached image that mine are broken.? Is there a ready source for these parts, or should I warm up my 3d printer (greatest boat tool ever!).? It appears to me that these washers don't carry much load (and can therefore be printed)? is that correct?? I've never seen this pop top in action,? so I'm not quite sure how it all works. Thanks, ? ?Peter -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20230412_180243.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2279192 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20230422_134130.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2319711 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20230423_150108.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1681658 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rlowe at vt.edu Mon Apr 24 14:30:09 2023 From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob) Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2023 18:30:09 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top support In-Reply-To: <179303798.6276764.1682350485989@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1456454065.2552876.1681388919928@mail.yahoo.com> <179303798.6276764.1682350485989@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Peter, That's is really cool. Thanks for sharing. I think these will work well for you. Rob -----Original Message----- From: Rhodes22-list On Behalf Of Peter via Rhodes22-list Sent: Monday, April 24, 2023 11:35 AM To: The Rhodes 22 Email List ; Chris Geankoplis Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Pop top support Hi All, Just following up. I went ahead and printed some bushings for my pop top. I suspect that Roger is correct and ABS plastic is not the best material for the job, but I'm tight for time and would like to get in the water in a few weeks and this solution will last until I get a chance to fabricate a better one sometime this summer. I've included a couple of pictures for those who are curious. As always, thanks for the help. Peter On Thursday, April 13, 2023, 09:20:08 PM EDT, Chris Geankoplis wrote: I've made those "doughnuts " several times over the years, maybe 3 or 4 times for various Rhodes and even an Ensenada. Starboard, (well a Walmart cutting board) a Harbor Freight holesaw kit and table saw or jigsaw. Bob' your uncle. That being said, 3-D printing is just too cool to pass up. Let us know how it goes, be sure to post pictures of the process.Chris GeankoplisXENOS On Thu, Apr 13, 2023 at 8:28 AM Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: Hi All, Quick question. Yesterday was my 1st opportunity to spend a few hours on my boat running down some projects. The supports for the pop top are not in place and therefore are in the way. Looking at how they're supposed to attach it looks as though there should be some plastic washer-like fitting that the tube fits through that is bolted to the top and that prevents the tube from coming out of place, or falling into the cabin when there is no load. You can see in the attached image that mine are broken. Is there a ready source for these parts, or should I warm up my 3d printer (greatest boat tool ever!). It appears to me that these washers don't carry much load (and can therefore be printed) is that correct? I've never seen this pop top in action, so I'm not quite sure how it all works. Thanks, Peter -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20230412_180243.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2279192 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20230422_134130.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2319711 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20230423_150108.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1681658 bytes Desc: not available URL: From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 25 23:27:42 2023 From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 03:27:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders References: <917597852.132055.1682479662121.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <917597852.132055.1682479662121@mail.yahoo.com> Hi?all, ???I've?decided?to?replace?my?mismatched?spreader?bars.??I've?tried?contacting?Dwyer,?but?they?aren't?in?a?rush?to?answer?my?message,?so?I?thought?I'd?look?elsewhere.??My?problem?is?I?don't?know?exactly?what?type?of?tube?I'm?looking?for.??I'm?guessing?these?are?stainless?steel?tubes,?is?that?correct.??Would?304?16?gauge?be?sufficient???Or?should?I?be?looking?at?aluminium???Any?thoughts? Thanks, ????Peter From sea20 at verizon.net Wed Apr 26 08:49:49 2023 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 08:49:49 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: <917597852.132055.1682479662121@mail.yahoo.com> References: <917597852.132055.1682479662121@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <96AFBC50-88BC-4383-84FE-D6CBE707CD5B@verizon.net> A friend of mine replaced his with some he obtained from the Catalina parts house. The diameter was slightly different but they worked fine. Scott A. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 25, 2023, at 11:27 PM, Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > ?Hi all, > I've decided to replace my mismatched spreader bars. I've tried contacting Dwyer, but they aren't in a rush to answer my message, so I thought I'd look elsewhere. My problem is I don't know exactly what type of tube I'm looking for. I'm guessing these are stainless steel tubes, is that correct. Would 304 16 gauge be sufficient? Or should I be looking at aluminium? Any thoughts? > > Thanks, > Peter From tavares0947 at gmail.com Wed Apr 26 09:00:42 2023 From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 09:00:42 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: <917597852.132055.1682479662121@mail.yahoo.com> References: <917597852.132055.1682479662121.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <917597852.132055.1682479662121@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Peter, You can source SS tubing other places. Try Defender or Rigrite. I don't know off hand what I have in the garage, but I definitely have some extra aluminum spreaders. I can't remember offhand what the diameter is; likely 1"? And they are pretty thin guage too. If you get in a bind and can't source any, let me know and I'll give you these aluminum ones. Todd T. On Tue, Apr 25, 2023, 11:27 PM Peter via Rhodes22-list < rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote: > Hi all, > > I've decided to replace my mismatched spreader bars. I've tried contacting Dwyer, but they aren't in a rush to answer my message, so I thought I'd look elsewhere. My problem is I don't know exactly what type of tube I'm looking for. I'm guessing these are stainless steel tubes, is that correct. Would 304 16 gauge be sufficient? Or should I be looking at aluminium? Any thoughts? > > Thanks, > Peter > From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 26 09:12:09 2023 From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 13:12:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: References: <917597852.132055.1682479662121.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <917597852.132055.1682479662121@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <13560624.244274.1682514729096@mail.yahoo.com> Todd, thanks so much for the offer. I don't think sourcing will be much of a problem. What I need to know is what type of metal I should have and approximate guage/wall thickness. I don't want issues due to dissimilar metals coming in contact with each other. Thanks On Wednesday, April 26, 2023, 09:00:53 AM EDT, Todd Tavares wrote: Peter, You can source SS tubing other places. Try Defender or Rigrite.?I don't know off hand what I have in the garage, but I definitely have some extra aluminum spreaders. I can't remember offhand what the diameter is; likely 1"? And they are pretty thin guage too. If you get in a bind and can't source any, let me know and I'll give you these aluminum ones. Todd T. On Tue, Apr 25, 2023, 11:27 PM Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: Hi?all, ???I've?decided?to?replace?my?mismatched?spreader?bars.??I've?tried?contacting?Dwyer,?but?they?aren't?in?a?rush?to?answer?my?message,?so?I?thought?I'd?look?elsewhere.??My?problem?is?I?don't?know?exactly?what?type?of?tube?I'm?looking?for.??I'm?guessing?these?are?stainless?steel?tubes,?is?that?correct.??Would?304?16?gauge?be?sufficient???Or?should?I?be?looking?at?aluminium???Any?thoughts? Thanks, ????Peter From ric at stottarchitecture.com Wed Apr 26 09:48:28 2023 From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 09:48:28 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: <13560624.244274.1682514729096@mail.yahoo.com> References: <917597852.132055.1682479662121.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <917597852.132055.1682479662121@mail.yahoo.com> <13560624.244274.1682514729096@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <892EEB09-5F37-495B-B2BE-9F9BC4C47D7E@stottarchitecture.com> Unless you want a polished finish, I don?t see any reason to use stainless steel Spreaders. They are heavy, hard to manipulate and much much more expensive than aluminum, which does the job. If they are mismatched in color, you could paint them. I?m only adding my opinion because I spend enormous amounts of time overdoing or overthinking. Keep it simple -a Rhodes idiom. Ric Dadventure Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP ric at stottarchitecture.com O -631-283-1777 C- 516-965-3164 > On Apr 26, 2023, at 9:12 AM, Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > > Todd, thanks so much for the offer. I don't think sourcing will be much of a problem. What I need to know is what type of metal I should have and approximate guage/wall thickness. I don't want issues due to dissimilar metals coming in contact with each other. > > Thanks On Wednesday, April 26, 2023, 09:00:53 AM EDT, Todd Tavares wrote: > > Peter, > You can source SS tubing other places. Try Defender or Rigrite. I don't know off hand what I have in the garage, but I definitely have some extra aluminum spreaders. I can't remember offhand what the diameter is; likely 1"? And they are pretty thin guage too. > If you get in a bind and can't source any, let me know and I'll give you these aluminum ones. > Todd T. > On Tue, Apr 25, 2023, 11:27 PM Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > Hi all, > I've decided to replace my mismatched spreader bars. I've tried contacting Dwyer, but they aren't in a rush to answer my message, so I thought I'd look elsewhere. My problem is I don't know exactly what type of tube I'm looking for. I'm guessing these are stainless steel tubes, is that correct. Would 304 16 gauge be sufficient? Or should I be looking at aluminium? Any thoughts? > > Thanks, > Peter > > From peter at sunnybeeches.com Wed Apr 26 11:51:15 2023 From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 08:51:15 -0700 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders Message-ID: My spreaders are aluminum, 1" O.D., 35.5" long (without the plastic end caps). I measured the wall thickness at 0.075", but there are some burrs on the inside, so the true thickness is probably less than that. I've never attempted to communicate with anyone from Dwyer, but I've ordered parts from their website without any problem. I didn't find any premade spreaders the right length, but you can buy marine grade aluminum tubing by the foot and inch. They list 1" O.D. tubing with a wall thickness of 0.065" for $12.74 per foot. The part number is 'RT 1000'. HTH, Peter Nyberg Coventry, CT s/v Silverheels (1988/2016) From jpd9668 at gmail.com Wed Apr 26 20:37:04 2023 From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2023 20:37:04 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: <917597852.132055.1682479662121@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6449c3b0.810a0220.aec64.4f8c@mx.google.com> Peter,Call Dwyer on the telephone. They're very helpful.Joe DempseyTrojan 42m/v VoyagerEx- Rhodes 22s/v RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Peter via Rhodes22-list Date: 4/25/23 11:27 PM (GMT-05:00) To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders Hi?all,???I've?decided?to?replace?my?mismatched?spreader?bars.??I've?tried?contacting?Dwyer,?but?they?aren't?in?a?rush?to?answer?my?message,?so?I?thought?I'd?look?elsewhere.??My?problem?is?I?don't?know?exactly?what?type?of?tube?I'm?looking?for.??I'm?guessing?these?are?stainless?steel?tubes,?is?that?correct.??Would?304?16?gauge?be?sufficient???Or?should?I?be?looking?at?aluminium???Any?thoughts?Thanks,????Peter From roger_pihlaja at msn.com Thu Apr 27 10:59:36 2023 From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 14:59:36 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: <892EEB09-5F37-495B-B2BE-9F9BC4C47D7E@stottarchitecture.com> References: <917597852.132055.1682479662121.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <917597852.132055.1682479662121@mail.yahoo.com> <13560624.244274.1682514729096@mail.yahoo.com> <892EEB09-5F37-495B-B2BE-9F9BC4C47D7E@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: Peter, Here?s the part you need to order from the Dwyer Aluminum Mast Co.: Wall Wt Cost Max P/N OD Thickness lb/ft $/ft Length RT 1000 1? 0.065? 0.224 12.74 12? You could have them cut your spreaders to length or you could order 1 piece and cut it yourself. Aluminum is easy to cut with a hacksaw or a tubing cutter. Shipping might be a little bit cheaper with 2 small pieces vs 1 longer piece. This particular tubing will come with a clear hard coat anodized finish. This is a thin layer of aluminum oxide (think sapphire!), which is an electrical insulator and will protect the aluminum substrate from corrosion for many years. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows From: Ric Stott Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2023 6:48 AM To: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com; The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders Unless you want a polished finish, I don?t see any reason to use stainless steel Spreaders. They are heavy, hard to manipulate and much much more expensive than aluminum, which does the job. If they are mismatched in color, you could paint them. I?m only adding my opinion because I spend enormous amounts of time overdoing or overthinking. Keep it simple -a Rhodes idiom. Ric Dadventure Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP ric at stottarchitecture.com O -631-283-1777 C- 516-965-3164 > On Apr 26, 2023, at 9:12 AM, Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > > Todd, thanks so much for the offer. I don't think sourcing will be much of a problem. What I need to know is what type of metal I should have and approximate guage/wall thickness. I don't want issues due to dissimilar metals coming in contact with each other. > > Thanks On Wednesday, April 26, 2023, 09:00:53 AM EDT, Todd Tavares wrote: > > Peter, > You can source SS tubing other places. Try Defender or Rigrite. I don't know off hand what I have in the garage, but I definitely have some extra aluminum spreaders. I can't remember offhand what the diameter is; likely 1"? And they are pretty thin guage too. > If you get in a bind and can't source any, let me know and I'll give you these aluminum ones. > Todd T. > On Tue, Apr 25, 2023, 11:27 PM Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > Hi all, > I've decided to replace my mismatched spreader bars. I've tried contacting Dwyer, but they aren't in a rush to answer my message, so I thought I'd look elsewhere. My problem is I don't know exactly what type of tube I'm looking for. I'm guessing these are stainless steel tubes, is that correct. Would 304 16 gauge be sufficient? Or should I be looking at aluminium? Any thoughts? > > Thanks, > Peter > > From sea20 at verizon.net Thu Apr 27 11:41:07 2023 From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 11:41:07 -0400 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: No problem, I thought maybe you needed the end caps In which case you would need match tube size. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 27, 2023, at 10:59 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: > > ?Peter, > > Here?s the part you need to order from the Dwyer Aluminum Mast Co.: > > Wall Wt Cost Max > P/N OD Thickness lb/ft $/ft Length > RT 1000 1? 0.065? 0.224 12.74 12? > > You could have them cut your spreaders to length or you could order 1 piece and cut it yourself. > Aluminum is easy to cut with a hacksaw or a tubing cutter. Shipping might be a little bit cheaper with 2 small pieces vs 1 longer piece. > > This particular tubing will come with a clear hard coat anodized finish. This is a thin layer of aluminum oxide (think sapphire!), which is an electrical insulator and will protect the aluminum substrate from corrosion for many years. > > Roger Pihlaja > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium > > Sent from Mail for Windows > > From: Ric Stott > Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2023 6:48 AM > To: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com; The Rhodes 22 Email List > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders > > Unless you want a polished finish, I don?t see any reason to use stainless steel Spreaders. > They are heavy, hard to manipulate and much much more expensive than aluminum, which does the job. > If they are mismatched in color, you could paint them. > I?m only adding my opinion because I spend enormous amounts of time overdoing or overthinking. > Keep it simple -a Rhodes idiom. > Ric > Dadventure > > Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP > ric at stottarchitecture.com > O -631-283-1777 > C- 516-965-3164 > > > >> On Apr 26, 2023, at 9:12 AM, Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: >> >> >> Todd, thanks so much for the offer. I don't think sourcing will be much of a problem. What I need to know is what type of metal I should have and approximate guage/wall thickness. I don't want issues due to dissimilar metals coming in contact with each other. >> >> Thanks On Wednesday, April 26, 2023, 09:00:53 AM EDT, Todd Tavares wrote: >> >> Peter, >> You can source SS tubing other places. Try Defender or Rigrite. I don't know off hand what I have in the garage, but I definitely have some extra aluminum spreaders. I can't remember offhand what the diameter is; likely 1"? And they are pretty thin guage too. >> If you get in a bind and can't source any, let me know and I'll give you these aluminum ones. >> Todd T. >> On Tue, Apr 25, 2023, 11:27 PM Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: >> >> Hi all, >> I've decided to replace my mismatched spreader bars. I've tried contacting Dwyer, but they aren't in a rush to answer my message, so I thought I'd look elsewhere. My problem is I don't know exactly what type of tube I'm looking for. I'm guessing these are stainless steel tubes, is that correct. Would 304 16 gauge be sufficient? Or should I be looking at aluminium? Any thoughts? >> >> Thanks, >> Peter >> >> > From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 27 12:05:29 2023 From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 16:05:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: References: <917597852.132055.1682479662121.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <917597852.132055.1682479662121@mail.yahoo.com> <13560624.244274.1682514729096@mail.yahoo.com> <892EEB09-5F37-495B-B2BE-9F9BC4C47D7E@stottarchitecture.com> Message-ID: <1904187777.729807.1682611529192@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Roger, So the anodizing insulates the aluminum spreader from interacting with the stainless steel spreader bracket, avoiding corrosion. And the wedge washers keep the spreader bracket from touching the aluminum mast (also anodized?) again avoiding corrosion. Do I have that right? I really appreciate your help. So many details to attend to. Peter On Thursday, April 27, 2023, 10:59:37 AM EDT, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: #yiv3524638308 filtered {}#yiv3524638308 filtered {}#yiv3524638308 p.yiv3524638308MsoNormal, #yiv3524638308 li.yiv3524638308MsoNormal, #yiv3524638308 div.yiv3524638308MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv3524638308 a:link, #yiv3524638308 span.yiv3524638308MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3524638308 .yiv3524638308MsoChpDefault {}#yiv3524638308 filtered {}#yiv3524638308 div.yiv3524638308WordSection1 {} Peter, ? Here?s the part you need to order from the Dwyer Aluminum Mast Co.: ? ?????????????????????????????? Wall?????????????? Wt???? Cost????? Max P/N????????? OD????? Thickness?????? lb/ft???? $/ft???? Length RT 1000?? 1??????? 0.065???????????? 0.224?? 12.74???? 12? ? You could have them cut your spreaders to length or you could order 1 piece and cut it yourself. Aluminum is easy to cut with a hacksaw or a tubing cutter.? Shipping might be a little bit cheaper with 2 small pieces vs 1 longer piece. ? This particular tubing will come with a clear hard coat anodized finish.? This is a thin layer of aluminum oxide (think sapphire!), which is an electrical insulator and will protect the aluminum substrate from corrosion for many years. ? Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium ? Sent from Mail for Windows ? From: Ric Stott Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2023 6:48 AM To: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com;The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders ? Unless you want a polished finish, I don?t see any reason to use stainless steel Spreaders. They are heavy, hard to manipulate and much much more expensive than aluminum, which does the job. If they are mismatched in color, you could paint them. I?m only adding my opinion because I spend enormous amounts of time overdoing or overthinking. Keep it simple -a? Rhodes idiom. Ric Dadventure Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP ric at stottarchitecture.com O -631-283-1777 C- 516-965-3164 > On Apr 26, 2023, at 9:12 AM, Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > > Todd, thanks so much for the offer. I don't think sourcing will be much of a problem. What I need to know is what type of metal I should have and approximate guage/wall thickness. I don't want issues due to dissimilar metals coming in contact with each other. > > Thanks???? On Wednesday, April 26, 2023, 09:00:53 AM EDT, Todd Tavares wrote:? > > Peter, > You can source SS tubing other places. Try Defender or Rigrite. I don't know off hand what I have in the garage, but I definitely have some extra aluminum spreaders. I can't remember offhand what the diameter is; likely 1"? And they are pretty thin guage too. > If you get in a bind and can't source any, let me know and I'll give you these aluminum ones. > Todd T. > On Tue, Apr 25, 2023, 11:27 PM Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > Hi all, >??? I've decided to replace my mismatched spreader bars.? I've tried contacting Dwyer, but they aren't in a rush to answer my message, so I thought I'd look elsewhere.? My problem is I don't know exactly what type of tube I'm looking for.? I'm guessing these are stainless steel tubes, is that correct.? Would 304 16 gauge be sufficient?? Or should I be looking at aluminium?? Any thoughts? > > Thanks, >???? Peter > > ? From Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com Thu Apr 27 18:12:47 2023 From: Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2023 22:12:47 +0000 Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders In-Reply-To: <1904187777.729807.1682611529192@mail.yahoo.com> References: <917597852.132055.1682479662121.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <917597852.132055.1682479662121@mail.yahoo.com> <13560624.244274.1682514729096@mail.yahoo.com> <892EEB09-5F37-495B-B2BE-9F9BC4C47D7E@stottarchitecture.com> <1904187777.729807.1682611529192@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Peter, It?s a bit of a belt + suspenders attitude. If you take a close look at the closeup photo I sent you, you will see numerous areas on the spreaders and mast wherein the anodizing coating on the OEM model year 1978 spars has failed. My policy is to always include additional electrical isolation, especially if it?s not difficult to do, such as with the wedge washers under the spreader brackets. For my mast, a complete paint job would be the real answer; but, I?m not willing to go to the trouble and expense. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from my iPhone On Apr 27, 2023, at 12:05 PM, recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com wrote: ? Thanks Roger, So the anodizing insulates the aluminum spreader from interacting with the stainless steel spreader bracket, avoiding corrosion. And the wedge washers keep the spreader bracket from touching the aluminum mast (also anodized?) again avoiding corrosion. Do I have that right? I really appreciate your help. So many details to attend to. Peter On Thursday, April 27, 2023, 10:59:37 AM EDT, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote: Peter, Here?s the part you need to order from the Dwyer Aluminum Mast Co.: Wall Wt Cost Max P/N OD Thickness lb/ft $/ft Length RT 1000 1? 0.065? 0.224 12.74 12? You could have them cut your spreaders to length or you could order 1 piece and cut it yourself. Aluminum is easy to cut with a hacksaw or a tubing cutter. Shipping might be a little bit cheaper with 2 small pieces vs 1 longer piece. This particular tubing will come with a clear hard coat anodized finish. This is a thin layer of aluminum oxide (think sapphire!), which is an electrical insulator and will protect the aluminum substrate from corrosion for many years. Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium Sent from Mail for Windows From: Ric Stott Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2023 6:48 AM To: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com;The Rhodes 22 Email List Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Spreaders Unless you want a polished finish, I don?t see any reason to use stainless steel Spreaders. They are heavy, hard to manipulate and much much more expensive than aluminum, which does the job. If they are mismatched in color, you could paint them. I?m only adding my opinion because I spend enormous amounts of time overdoing or overthinking. Keep it simple -a Rhodes idiom. Ric Dadventure Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP ric at stottarchitecture.com O -631-283-1777 C- 516-965-3164 > On Apr 26, 2023, at 9:12 AM, Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > > Todd, thanks so much for the offer. I don't think sourcing will be much of a problem. What I need to know is what type of metal I should have and approximate guage/wall thickness. I don't want issues due to dissimilar metals coming in contact with each other. > > Thanks On Wednesday, April 26, 2023, 09:00:53 AM EDT, Todd Tavares wrote: > > Peter, > You can source SS tubing other places. Try Defender or Rigrite. I don't know off hand what I have in the garage, but I definitely have some extra aluminum spreaders. I can't remember offhand what the diameter is; likely 1"? And they are pretty thin guage too. > If you get in a bind and can't source any, let me know and I'll give you these aluminum ones. > Todd T. > On Tue, Apr 25, 2023, 11:27 PM Peter via Rhodes22-list wrote: > > Hi all, > I've decided to replace my mismatched spreader bars. I've tried contacting Dwyer, but they aren't in a rush to answer my message, so I thought I'd look elsewhere. My problem is I don't know exactly what type of tube I'm looking for. I'm guessing these are stainless steel tubes, is that correct. Would 304 16 gauge be sufficient? Or should I be looking at aluminium? Any thoughts? > > Thanks, > Peter > >