From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Wed Nov  1 10:45:41 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2023 10:45:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36bG9hyBNLq8_0T9-UHz3wE_PYVF0b9Wz4BHvOc3fMZqSQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Todd,

I expect it is the same for a '93.  When mine failed, probably the center
nut came off to release the vertical tang, which is all I saw.  I didn't
get a chance to see the actual repair take place so I don't know about the
bolt heads.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Tue, Oct 31, 2023 at 7:30?PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger, Rick, All,
>
> I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which run up
> through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is constructed for that
> matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976 model Rhodes
> 22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner out with a series
> of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two tangs, crossed and bolted
> together. I never investigated them any more than making sure the nuts were
> tight. But looking back at the pictures now, I can't figure out where the
> heads of the bolts were, but guess they were behind the rub rail. (?) I
> have never taken the rub rail off any of the three Rhodes 22s I've owned.
>
> Todd T
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Shroud 1.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 114309 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment.jpe
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Shroud 2.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 118074 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment-0001.jpe
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Nov  1 11:31:30 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2023 15:31:30 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB668344F955D5903B7CF303A380A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

So Rick,

Assuming your chainplates were constructed like Todd?s boat, when your chainplate pulled out, how did it fail?  Did the thru bolt fail or did the tang fail?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 31, 2023, at 7:30?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Roger, Rick, All,
>
> I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which run up
> through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is constructed for that
> matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976 model Rhodes
> 22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner out with a series
> of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two tangs, crossed and bolted
> together. I never investigated them any more than making sure the nuts were
> tight. But looking back at the pictures now, I can't figure out where the
> heads of the bolts were, but guess they were behind the rub rail. (?) I
> have never taken the rub rail off any of the three Rhodes 22s I've owned.
>
> Todd T
>
>
>
>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 6:38?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> Rick,
>>
>> Tell us more about how one of the upper side stay chainplates failed
>> suddenly and without warning.  I agree it?s hard to inspect the way it?s
>> glassed in.  However, if the FRP substrate failed, I would expect it would
>> get ?mushy? first.  Similarly, if the stainless steel chainplate itself
>> failed, I would expect it to gradually get weaker as the pitting and cracks
>> extended.  Either mechanism would cause a situation wherein you would have
>> issues with maintaining the shroud tension.  After every sail, the shroud
>> would be loose.  Since you claim the failure happened suddenly without
>> warning, please tell us what happened.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Oct 27, 2023, at 4:44?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?Rick,
>>>
>>> What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk to
>> the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a boat
>> hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand over
>> hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or the
>> carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss, no
>> fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the anchor
>> is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace else or
>> going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of
>> shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where the
>> big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine
>> anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done much
>> anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to anchor
>> in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too
>> late to go somewhere else.
>>>
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>> On Oct 27, 2023, at 4:19?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> ?Roger,
>>>>
>>>> If you wake up dragging, it is likely you will need to quickly redeploy.
>>>> That's not easily and safely done in the dark with your anchor tackle
>>>> complications.  And any "optimizing" that ignores emergencies just
>> leads to
>>>> a short life--and a lot of yelling.
>>>>
>>>> I am not suggesting an all chain rode.  I am saying you need a 20' chain
>>>> between anchor and rope rode, as you have.  The rope should be no less
>> than
>>>> 7 times longer than the water depth.  If you can't find a spot that has
>>>> enough room, go to shore or to another anchorage.  Good seamanship is
>> not
>>>> squeezing in.
>>>>
>>>> One of the few faults with the R22 is that the chain plates cannot be
>>>> visually inspected.  Some on this list have opened inspection holes in
>> the
>>>> cabin inside walls to make inspection possible.  The lower stays did
>> their
>>>> backup job fine, however, reattaching the plate and repairing the hull
>> was
>>>> expensive.
>>>>
>>>> I ran out of gas trying to beat a storm that was not predicted.  The
>> lesson
>>>> learned was to always carry a full reserve tank on the open lake.
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>>
>>>> Rick Lange
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 1:29?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Rick,
>>>>>
>>>>> For those of us that actually stay overnight at anchor, there are two
>>>>> major issues we worry about:
>>>>> 1: Is my anchor going to drag?
>>>>> 2: If the wind or current shifts, is my swing circle going to interfere
>>>>> with the boats anchored around me?
>>>>>
>>>>> With a given anchor type and anchor rode configuration, the best way to
>>>>> reduce the chance of dragging anchor is to increase the scope ratio.
>> With
>>>>> a small boat, like a Rhodes 22, an all chain anchor rode is simply too
>>>>> heavy to be a practical option.  I use a boat length of chain
>> connected to
>>>>> 150 ft of 3/8 inch diameter three strand nylon rode.
>>>>>
>>>>> The best way to assure your swing circle isn?t going to interfere with
>>>>> other boats is to make your swing radius as small as possible, with an
>>>>> acceptable scope ratio.  Why would I want to make my swing radius
>> bigger?
>>>>> The reality of small sailboat cruising is that we tend to arrive at an
>>>>> anchorage late in the day.  By this time, the power boats have already
>>>>> dropped their hooks for the evening.  We often have to find a place
>> among
>>>>> the boats that are already in place and the newcomer always has to
>> yield
>>>>> right of way.  Having a small swing radius lets us squeeze in where
>> most
>>>>> boats could not.
>>>>>
>>>>> My suggested anchoring technique enables one or the other of these
>> issues
>>>>> to be optimized.  All other anchoring scenarios put together make up a
>> very
>>>>> small % of the total use of your anchor.  I?m glad you were able to
>> keep
>>>>> your boat off the rocks by emergency anchoring.  But, this scenario has
>>>>> very little to do with normal cruising.  Good seamanship would dictate
>> that
>>>>> you inspect your rigging and pay attention to your fuel level so you
>> don?t
>>>>> have to emergency anchor.  But, those are entirely separate issues.
>>>>>
>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Shroud 1.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 114309 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment.jpe>
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Shroud 2.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 118074 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment-0001.jpe>

From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Wed Nov  1 15:12:51 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2023 15:12:51 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668344F955D5903B7CF303A380A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668344F955D5903B7CF303A380A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFTyJNUn8-YG0dWSOOsHH3aAMFcT3-=0FQUxvXPBFYJ6mYDPHw@mail.gmail.com>

I just discovered after washing my boat that I have a slight leak at the
upper shroud chainplate. I took off the interior trim and saw the same tang
(t-shap) that Todd showed. Has anyone rebedded the topside piece? I don't
really want to unscrew the two bolts/screws in the toe rail and find that I
can't put them back.
[image: Shroud attachment.jpg]

On Wed, Nov 1, 2023 at 12:09?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> So Rick,
>
> Assuming your chainplates were constructed like Todd?s boat, when your
> chainplate pulled out, how did it fail?  Did the thru bolt fail or did the
> tang fail?
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 31, 2023, at 7:30?PM, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Roger, Rick, All,
> >
> > I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which run up
> > through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is constructed for
> that
> > matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976 model Rhodes
> > 22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner out with a
> series
> > of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two tangs, crossed and
> bolted
> > together. I never investigated them any more than making sure the nuts
> were
> > tight. But looking back at the pictures now, I can't figure out where the
> > heads of the bolts were, but guess they were behind the rub rail. (?) I
> > have never taken the rub rail off any of the three Rhodes 22s I've owned.
> >
> > Todd T
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 6:38?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Rick,
> >>
> >> Tell us more about how one of the upper side stay chainplates failed
> >> suddenly and without warning.  I agree it?s hard to inspect the way it?s
> >> glassed in.  However, if the FRP substrate failed, I would expect it
> would
> >> get ?mushy? first.  Similarly, if the stainless steel chainplate itself
> >> failed, I would expect it to gradually get weaker as the pitting and
> cracks
> >> extended.  Either mechanism would cause a situation wherein you would
> have
> >> issues with maintaining the shroud tension.  After every sail, the
> shroud
> >> would be loose.  Since you claim the failure happened suddenly without
> >> warning, please tell us what happened.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Oct 27, 2023, at 4:44?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Rick,
> >>>
> >>> What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk
> to
> >> the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a
> boat
> >> hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand
> over
> >> hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or
> the
> >> carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss, no
> >> fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the
> anchor
> >> is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace
> else or
> >> going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of
> >> shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where
> the
> >> big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine
> >> anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done
> much
> >> anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to
> anchor
> >> in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too
> >> late to go somewhere else.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>>> On Oct 27, 2023, at 4:19?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> ?Roger,
> >>>>
> >>>> If you wake up dragging, it is likely you will need to quickly
> redeploy.
> >>>> That's not easily and safely done in the dark with your anchor tackle
> >>>> complications.  And any "optimizing" that ignores emergencies just
> >> leads to
> >>>> a short life--and a lot of yelling.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am not suggesting an all chain rode.  I am saying you need a 20'
> chain
> >>>> between anchor and rope rode, as you have.  The rope should be no less
> >> than
> >>>> 7 times longer than the water depth.  If you can't find a spot that
> has
> >>>> enough room, go to shore or to another anchorage.  Good seamanship is
> >> not
> >>>> squeezing in.
> >>>>
> >>>> One of the few faults with the R22 is that the chain plates cannot be
> >>>> visually inspected.  Some on this list have opened inspection holes in
> >> the
> >>>> cabin inside walls to make inspection possible.  The lower stays did
> >> their
> >>>> backup job fine, however, reattaching the plate and repairing the hull
> >> was
> >>>> expensive.
> >>>>
> >>>> I ran out of gas trying to beat a storm that was not predicted.  The
> >> lesson
> >>>> learned was to always carry a full reserve tank on the open lake.
> >>>>
> >>>> Regards,
> >>>>
> >>>> Rick Lange
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 1:29?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
> roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Rick,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> For those of us that actually stay overnight at anchor, there are two
> >>>>> major issues we worry about:
> >>>>> 1: Is my anchor going to drag?
> >>>>> 2: If the wind or current shifts, is my swing circle going to
> interfere
> >>>>> with the boats anchored around me?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> With a given anchor type and anchor rode configuration, the best way
> to
> >>>>> reduce the chance of dragging anchor is to increase the scope ratio.
> >> With
> >>>>> a small boat, like a Rhodes 22, an all chain anchor rode is simply
> too
> >>>>> heavy to be a practical option.  I use a boat length of chain
> >> connected to
> >>>>> 150 ft of 3/8 inch diameter three strand nylon rode.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The best way to assure your swing circle isn?t going to interfere
> with
> >>>>> other boats is to make your swing radius as small as possible, with
> an
> >>>>> acceptable scope ratio.  Why would I want to make my swing radius
> >> bigger?
> >>>>> The reality of small sailboat cruising is that we tend to arrive at
> an
> >>>>> anchorage late in the day.  By this time, the power boats have
> already
> >>>>> dropped their hooks for the evening.  We often have to find a place
> >> among
> >>>>> the boats that are already in place and the newcomer always has to
> >> yield
> >>>>> right of way.  Having a small swing radius lets us squeeze in where
> >> most
> >>>>> boats could not.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> My suggested anchoring technique enables one or the other of these
> >> issues
> >>>>> to be optimized.  All other anchoring scenarios put together make up
> a
> >> very
> >>>>> small % of the total use of your anchor.  I?m glad you were able to
> >> keep
> >>>>> your boat off the rocks by emergency anchoring.  But, this scenario
> has
> >>>>> very little to do with normal cruising.  Good seamanship would
> dictate
> >> that
> >>>>> you inspect your rigging and pay attention to your fuel level so you
> >> don?t
> >>>>> have to emergency anchor.  But, those are entirely separate issues.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Shroud 1.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 114309 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment.jpe
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Shroud 2.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 118074 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment-0001.jpe
> >
>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Shroud attachment.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 662613 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231101/435d2e12/attachment.jpg>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Nov  1 15:13:24 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2023 19:13:24 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list]  Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36bG9hyBNLq8_0T9-UHz3wE_PYVF0b9Wz4BHvOc3fMZqSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABkv36bG9hyBNLq8_0T9-UHz3wE_PYVF0b9Wz4BHvOc3fMZqSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Rick,

So, if the nut came loose and fell off, did they find the nut down behind the galley counter or maybe down in the bilge?  The nut in the picture looks like it's a nyloc locking nut meant to prevent something like this from happening.  Perhaps your nut was a conventional nut?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 10:45 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Hi Todd,

I expect it is the same for a '93.  When mine failed, probably the center
nut came off to release the vertical tang, which is all I saw.  I didn't
get a chance to see the actual repair take place so I don't know about the
bolt heads.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Tue, Oct 31, 2023 at 7:30?PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger, Rick, All,
>
> I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which run up
> through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is constructed for that
> matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976 model Rhodes
> 22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner out with a series
> of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two tangs, crossed and bolted
> together. I never investigated them any more than making sure the nuts were
> tight. But looking back at the pictures now, I can't figure out where the
> heads of the bolts were, but guess they were behind the rub rail. (?) I
> have never taken the rub rail off any of the three Rhodes 22s I've owned.
>
> Todd T
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Shroud 1.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 114309 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae%2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95293%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=gbWKeWnmngHtx9ogGPYk8iQHRV5rauoIx52DugReIWg%3D&reserved=0<http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment.jpe>
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Shroud 2.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 118074 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae%2Fattachment-0001.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95293%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=s6IbXYHEp08qZscfZdZVoLviyjohD5MBR6fKAL6CG60%3D&reserved=0<http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment-0001.jpe>
> >
>

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Wed Nov  1 15:24:09 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2023 15:24:09 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABkv36bG9hyBNLq8_0T9-UHz3wE_PYVF0b9Wz4BHvOc3fMZqSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36YAtZ0raLKr4v0qVEYDpyOcKCSH2Xx3C3BtBZGG3H=0CA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Roger,

When the tang pulled out on the water, it was not damaged.  Then I took the
boat to the yard and got it back the next Spring fixed.  That's all I know.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Wed, Nov 1, 2023 at 3:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Rick,
>
> So, if the nut came loose and fell off, did they find the nut down behind
> the galley counter or maybe down in the bilge?  The nut in the picture
> looks like it's a nyloc locking nut meant to prevent something like this
> from happening.  Perhaps your nut was a conventional nut?
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 10:45 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> Hi Todd,
>
> I expect it is the same for a '93.  When mine failed, probably the center
> nut came off to release the vertical tang, which is all I saw.  I didn't
> get a chance to see the actual repair take place so I don't know about the
> bolt heads.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 31, 2023 at 7:30?PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Roger, Rick, All,
> >
> > I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which run up
> > through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is constructed for
> that
> > matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976 model Rhodes
> > 22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner out with a
> series
> > of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two tangs, crossed and
> bolted
> > together. I never investigated them any more than making sure the nuts
> were
> > tight. But looking back at the pictures now, I can't figure out where the
> > heads of the bolts were, but guess they were behind the rub rail. (?) I
> > have never taken the rub rail off any of the three Rhodes 22s I've owned.
> >
> > Todd T
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Shroud 1.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 114309 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae%2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95293%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=gbWKeWnmngHtx9ogGPYk8iQHRV5rauoIx52DugReIWg%3D&reserved=0
> <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment.jpe
> >
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Shroud 2.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 118074 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae%2Fattachment-0001.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95293%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=s6IbXYHEp08qZscfZdZVoLviyjohD5MBR6fKAL6CG60%3D&reserved=0
> <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment-0001.jpe
> >
> > >
> >
>

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Nov  1 15:30:12 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2023 15:30:12 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36YAtZ0raLKr4v0qVEYDpyOcKCSH2Xx3C3BtBZGG3H=0CA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2
 YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABkv36bG9hyBNLq8_0T9-UHz3wE_PYVF0b9Wz4BHvOc3fMZqSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36YAtZ0raLKr4v0qVEYDpyOcKCSH2Xx3C3BtBZGG3H=0CA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004601da0cf9$d6196730$824c3590$@ebsmed.com>

Rick,

"Repaired" not "Fixed" as some yards perform substandard repairs that don't really fix the problem.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Rick Lange
Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 3:24 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Hi Roger,

When the tang pulled out on the water, it was not damaged.  Then I took the boat to the yard and got it back the next Spring fixed.  That's all I know.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Wed, Nov 1, 2023 at 3:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Rick,
>
> So, if the nut came loose and fell off, did they find the nut down 
> behind the galley counter or maybe down in the bilge?  The nut in the 
> picture looks like it's a nyloc locking nut meant to prevent something 
> like this from happening.  Perhaps your nut was a conventional nut?
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of 
> Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 10:45 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> Hi Todd,
>
> I expect it is the same for a '93.  When mine failed, probably the 
> center nut came off to release the vertical tang, which is all I saw.  
> I didn't get a chance to see the actual repair take place so I don't 
> know about the bolt heads.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 31, 2023 at 7:30?PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Roger, Rick, All,
> >
> > I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which run 
> > up through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is 
> > constructed for
> that
> > matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976 model 
> > Rhodes 22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner out 
> > with a
> series
> > of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two tangs, crossed and
> bolted
> > together. I never investigated them any more than making sure the 
> > nuts
> were
> > tight. But looking back at the pictures now, I can't figure out 
> > where the heads of the bolts were, but guess they were behind the 
> > rub rail. (?) I have never taken the rub rail off any of the three Rhodes 22s I've owned.
> >
> > Todd T
> >
> > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was 
> > scrubbed...
> > Name: Shroud 1.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 114309 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes
> 22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae
> %2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95293%7
> C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7CUnkno
> wn%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiL
> CJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=gbWKeWnmngHtx9ogGPYk8iQHRV5rauoIx5
> 2DugReIWg%3D&reserved=0
> <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea
> 9ae/attachment.jpe
> >
> > >
> > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was 
> > scrubbed...
> > Name: Shroud 2.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 118074 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes
> 22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae
> %2Fattachment-0001.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95
> 293%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7C
> Unknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1h
> aWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=s6IbXYHEp08qZscfZdZVoLviyjohD
> 5MBR6fKAL6CG60%3D&reserved=0
> <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea
> 9ae/attachment-0001.jpe
> >
> > >
> >
>


From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Wed Nov  1 15:39:19 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2023 15:39:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <004601da0cf9$d6196730$824c3590$@ebsmed.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36bG9hyBNLq8_0T9-UHz3wE_PYVF0b9Wz4BHvOc3fMZqSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36YAtZ0raLKr4v0qVEYDpyOcKCSH2Xx3C3BtBZGG3H=0CA@mail.gmail.com>
 <004601da0cf9$d6196730$824c3590$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36b2z3zki_oU7fnJ++Xq7QDCGZpmkYqoFiVD4qfQqHdrAQ@mail.gmail.com>

Mike,

Actually, fixed by a great yard, Sailing, Inc. in Cleveland.  They also
added cockpit bench stringers because of the flexing that took place during
that journey in the chop.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Wed, Nov 1, 2023 at 3:30?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> Rick,
>
> "Repaired" not "Fixed" as some yards perform substandard repairs that
> don't really fix the problem.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
>

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Wed Nov  1 18:00:53 2023
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2023 18:00:53 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cockpit seat drains in Lazerette
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+BaR+9=yESOTFMpVaH=ibo5w0Z_ddwYoTdu_1mAqzw-cA@mail.gmail.com>

This is just to caution about aging hoses used for the seat drains.  My
1989 had corrugated white tubing 1 1/4 ID.  I have often had unexplained
water in the bilge and each time I had water in the Laz I chalked it up to
clogged seat drains from leaves or gumballs etc.  that came along when my
winter tarp getting shredded by storms.  Recently a tropical storm came
along as my tarp was reaching the end of it's life and exposed the stern
area.  I came to the boat to find the front of the trailer completely off
the ground and the laz. nearly full of water.  I discovered the drain hoses
to have cracks and they were fragile as eggshells once I started handling
them.  Clearly they have not had sun exposure but after nearly 35 years the
plastic is done.

Just another thought, about 10 years ago in Colorado one of the racers in
the club had a brand new boat ,  22 ft I think, can't remember the brand.
Anyway, he capsized in a race, got towed to shore.  They righted the boat,
got it on trailer, and as they were pulling up the ramp the weight of water
in the boat slammed into the stern and basically removed it (stern
fiberglass).  So be careful if you ever have a laz full of water....

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Thu Nov  2 07:10:10 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2023 07:10:10 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <004601da0cf9$d6196730$824c3590$@ebsmed.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36bG9hyBNLq8_0T9-UHz3wE_PYVF0b9Wz4BHvOc3fMZqSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36YAtZ0raLKr4v0qVEYDpyOcKCSH2Xx3C3BtBZGG3H=0CA@mail.gmail.com>
 <004601da0cf9$d6196730$824c3590$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMPPQdNdCu1TSRwiEVSByCjAOx+UXJ4g-Z9p3AECP-8axA@mail.gmail.com>

Michael, you are starting to sound like me..

I'm an elevator repairman. Often a customer will ask "Did you fix
it?"...and I'll  say, "No...but I got it running."   LOL

Todd T

On Wed, Nov 1, 2023, 3:30 PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> "Repaired" not "Fixed" as some yards perform substandard repairs that
> don't really fix the problem.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Rick Lange
> Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 3:24 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> Hi Roger,
>
> When the tang pulled out on the water, it was not damaged.  Then I took
> the boat to the yard and got it back the next Spring fixed.  That's all I
> know.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 1, 2023 at 3:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Rick,
> >
> > So, if the nut came loose and fell off, did they find the nut down
> > behind the galley counter or maybe down in the bilge?  The nut in the
> > picture looks like it's a nyloc locking nut meant to prevent something
> > like this from happening.  Perhaps your nut was a conventional nut?
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 10:45 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >
> > Hi Todd,
> >
> > I expect it is the same for a '93.  When mine failed, probably the
> > center nut came off to release the vertical tang, which is all I saw.
> > I didn't get a chance to see the actual repair take place so I don't
> > know about the bolt heads.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Rick Lange
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Oct 31, 2023 at 7:30?PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Roger, Rick, All,
> > >
> > > I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which run
> > > up through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is
> > > constructed for
> > that
> > > matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976 model
> > > Rhodes 22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner out
> > > with a
> > series
> > > of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two tangs, crossed and
> > bolted
> > > together. I never investigated them any more than making sure the
> > > nuts
> > were
> > > tight. But looking back at the pictures now, I can't figure out
> > > where the heads of the bolts were, but guess they were behind the
> > > rub rail. (?) I have never taken the rub rail off any of the three
> Rhodes 22s I've owned.
> > >
> > > Todd T
> > >
> > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was
> > > scrubbed...
> > > Name: Shroud 1.JPG
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 114309 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes
> > 22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae
> > %2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95293%7
> > C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7CUnkno
> > wn%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiL
> > CJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=gbWKeWnmngHtx9ogGPYk8iQHRV5rauoIx5
> > 2DugReIWg%3D&reserved=0
> > <
> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea
> > 9ae/attachment.jpe
> > >
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was
> > > scrubbed...
> > > Name: Shroud 2.JPG
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 118074 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes
> > 22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae
> > %2Fattachment-0001.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95
> > 293%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7C
> > Unknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1h
> > aWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=s6IbXYHEp08qZscfZdZVoLviyjohD
> > 5MBR6fKAL6CG60%3D&reserved=0
> > <
> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea
> > 9ae/attachment-0001.jpe
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>

From aseatanner at yahoo.com  Thu Nov  2 09:12:04 2023
From: aseatanner at yahoo.com (Arthur Tanner)
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2023 13:12:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1976 Rhodes22 for sale -- cheap!
References: <259690767.2302118.1698930724098.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <259690767.2302118.1698930724098@mail.yahoo.com>

I have a 1976 Rhodes 22 on a trailer in my driveway.? She has not been in the water for over 5 years due to the aging of her owner, but has been kept covered with tarps.? She needs some work to get her sea-worthy, but I believe that the hull and decks are structurally sound. I acquired the boat in 1990 and sailed her in the Chesapeake bay for many years.? I have always dry-sailed, that is, kept the boat on a trailer between launches.? As far as I know, she has never spent time in a slip.? While we were sailing her, I tried to keep her in good condition, and I believe that someone who appreciates a sailboat repair challenge could have her ready for the water fairly quickly.?? She comes with a Triad trailer and a 1992 Johnson 9.9 Hp long shaft motor, gently used.? She is currently located in Bowie, MD, about 15 miles from Annapolis.? I welcome private email inquiries!? 


|  | Virus-free.www.avast.com |


From lwdenney at gmail.com  Thu Nov  2 10:37:20 2023
From: lwdenney at gmail.com (Laurie Whitney Denney)
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2023 10:37:20 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1976 Rhodes22 for sale -- cheap!
In-Reply-To: <259690767.2302118.1698930724098@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <259690767.2302118.1698930724098.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <259690767.2302118.1698930724098@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CA+EAhnzt57cTN4deUk95ewErP73JyyV-a5HQChYpt0oMcp3S1w@mail.gmail.com>

Hello Arthur,

Please tell me more about your '76 Rhodes22,.and the price.  We have
decided to purchase another used one since we love ours so much.


We were unable to get our '79 Rhodes 22, Nirvana, out in the water this
year.  She needs quite a bit of work. We are on Douglas Lake, in Dandridge,
TN.

Thank you for your time.

Laurie Denney

On Thu, Nov 2, 2023, 9:14 AM Arthur Tanner via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I have a 1976 Rhodes 22 on a trailer in my driveway.  She has not been in
> the water for over 5 years due to the aging of her owner, but has been kept
> covered with tarps.  She needs some work to get her sea-worthy, but I
> believe that the hull and decks are structurally sound. I acquired the boat
> in 1990 and sailed her in the Chesapeake bay for many years.  I have always
> dry-sailed, that is, kept the boat on a trailer between launches.  As far
> as I know, she has never spent time in a slip.  While we were sailing her,
> I tried to keep her in good condition, and I believe that someone who
> appreciates a sailboat repair challenge could have her ready for the water
> fairly quickly.   She comes with a Triad trailer and a 1992 Johnson 9.9 Hp
> long shaft motor, gently used.  She is currently located in Bowie, MD,
> about 15 miles from Annapolis.  I welcome private email inquiries!
>
>
> |  | Virus-free.www.avast.com |
>
>

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Thu Nov  2 12:22:29 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668 at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2023 12:22:29 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2 YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABkv36bG9hyBNLq8_0T9-UHz3wE_PYVF0b9Wz4BHvOc3fMZqSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <00bc01da0da8$ca6ae1c0$5f40a540$@gmail.com>

How did we get from Anchoring to Chain Plates?

Just askin'. One of the features of The List is that a Rhodie can search the Archives by subject. If I were searching for Upper Shroud (Actually Main Stay) I would miss a good discussion because it's buried in a thread on Anchoring!

Since I've crossed over, I don't have any stays or shrouds, but I do have an anchor (Actually three).

Joe Dempsey
Trojan 42 MY
M V Voyager
Ex-Rhodes 22 (1989-2005)
S V Respite 
Deltaville, VA



-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA
Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 3:13 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Hi Rick,

So, if the nut came loose and fell off, did they find the nut down behind the galley counter or maybe down in the bilge?  The nut in the picture looks like it's a nyloc locking nut meant to prevent something like this from happening.  Perhaps your nut was a conventional nut?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 10:45 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Hi Todd,

I expect it is the same for a '93.  When mine failed, probably the center nut came off to release the vertical tang, which is all I saw.  I didn't get a chance to see the actual repair take place so I don't know about the bolt heads.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Tue, Oct 31, 2023 at 7:30?PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger, Rick, All,
>
> I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which run 
> up through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is constructed 
> for that matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976 
> model Rhodes 22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner 
> out with a series of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two 
> tangs, crossed and bolted together. I never investigated them any more 
> than making sure the nuts were tight. But looking back at the pictures 
> now, I can't figure out where the heads of the bolts were, but guess 
> they were behind the rub rail. (?) I have never taken the rub rail off any of the three Rhodes 22s I've owned.
>
> Todd T
>
> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was 
> scrubbed...
> Name: Shroud 1.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 114309 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes
> 22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae
> %2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95293%7
> C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7CUnkno
> wn%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiL
> CJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=gbWKeWnmngHtx9ogGPYk8iQHRV5rauoIx5
> 2DugReIWg%3D&reserved=0<http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/at
> tachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment.jpe>
> >
> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was 
> scrubbed...
> Name: Shroud 2.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 118074 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes
> 22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae
> %2Fattachment-0001.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95293%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=s6IbXYHEp08qZscfZdZVoLviyjohD5MBR6fKAL6CG60%3D&reserved=0<http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment-0001.jpe>
> >
>


From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Thu Nov  2 12:42:28 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668 at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2023 12:42:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2 YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00c301da0dab$95206d70$bf614850$@gmail.com>

I replaced the rub rail on Respite in 2019.  The Deck to Hull joint is a "shoe box" type, meaning that the vertical flange of the Deck overlaps the Hull. The seam is sealed and S.S. fasteners  #6 or #8 screws are also used, spaced about 24", Max, apart. The Rub Rail is a two part system by TACO Marine PN: V21-9678BKA20 and PN: V12-4144WH. They are available from most marine chandleries. Below is paragraph 6 from my documentary of projects performed on S.V. Respite: (NOTE: Photos did not come through) 
6.	Rub Rail Replacement 

The rub rail on ?Respite? was damaged pretty badly in her slip during a storm. Numerous screws were pulled out and the two piece rail was damaged and scuffed (Left photo).  I decided on the replacement route. The existing rail was a two piece design by Taco Marine consisting of a black rigid PVC rail (PN: V21-9678BKA20) and a soft white insert (V12-4144WH**). The rigid rail is 1-1/2? X 5/8? comes in 20? sections and overlaps the cabin/hull joint. The insert comes in 50? and 70? rolls. 
There are numerous YouTube videos on line via West Marine, Taco Marine or Jamestown Supply so I won?t go into the process here other than to discuss some of the things that I did that may or may not prove beneficial. 

First, I filled all of the previous screw holes, and there were many, with 3m 5200 Sealant. Although they would be covered by the rigid rub rail, I trimmed the excess of each with a razor scrapper.
Second, as a precautionary measure, since I have been fighting leaks from somewhere, I inspected the cap/hull seam-joint and there were places that it seemed to show some separation and dryness. Using a Dremel tool with cutter wheel, I cut out a groove the entire perimeter of the joint in the old sealant and using 3M 4200, I caulked the entire joint insuring to get up into the groove I had made as well as any other spots that seemed compromised. I used 4200 because this joint was going to be covered with the rigid rub rail, would provide a bed for the lower edge of the rail and 5200 would become permanent which would preclude any future removal/repair/replacement of the rail. 

Joe Dempsey
Trojan 42 MY
M V Voyager
Ex-Rhodes 22 (1989-2005)
S V Respite
Deltaville, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Todd Tavares
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2023 7:31 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Roger, Rick, All,

I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which run up through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is constructed for that matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976 model Rhodes 22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner out with a series of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two tangs, crossed and bolted together. I never investigated them any more than making sure the nuts were tight. But looking back at the pictures now, I can't figure out where the heads of the bolts were, but guess they were behind the rub rail. (?) I have never taken the rub rail off any of the three Rhodes 22s I've owned.

Todd T



On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 6:38?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> Tell us more about how one of the upper side stay chainplates failed 
> suddenly and without warning.  I agree it?s hard to inspect the way 
> it?s glassed in.  However, if the FRP substrate failed, I would expect 
> it would get ?mushy? first.  Similarly, if the stainless steel 
> chainplate itself failed, I would expect it to gradually get weaker as 
> the pitting and cracks extended.  Either mechanism would cause a 
> situation wherein you would have issues with maintaining the shroud 
> tension.  After every sail, the shroud would be loose.  Since you 
> claim the failure happened suddenly without warning, please tell us what happened.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 27, 2023, at 4:44?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?Rick,
> >
> > What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you 
> > walk to
> the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a 
> boat hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode 
> hand over hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the 
> bow cleat or the carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and 
> redeploy.  No muss, no fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique 
> makes it less likely the anchor is going to drag.  Often, your 
> suggested options of going someplace else or going to shore are not 
> available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of shallow draft and can 
> often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where the big boats can?t 
> go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine anchorage.  
> But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done much 
> anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to 
> anchor in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too late to go somewhere else.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Oct 27, 2023, at 4:19?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> ?Roger,
> >>
> >> If you wake up dragging, it is likely you will need to quickly redeploy.
> >> That's not easily and safely done in the dark with your anchor 
> >> tackle complications.  And any "optimizing" that ignores 
> >> emergencies just
> leads to
> >> a short life--and a lot of yelling.
> >>
> >> I am not suggesting an all chain rode.  I am saying you need a 20' 
> >> chain between anchor and rope rode, as you have.  The rope should 
> >> be no less
> than
> >> 7 times longer than the water depth.  If you can't find a spot that 
> >> has enough room, go to shore or to another anchorage.  Good 
> >> seamanship is
> not
> >> squeezing in.
> >>
> >> One of the few faults with the R22 is that the chain plates cannot 
> >> be visually inspected.  Some on this list have opened inspection 
> >> holes in
> the
> >> cabin inside walls to make inspection possible.  The lower stays 
> >> did
> their
> >> backup job fine, however, reattaching the plate and repairing the 
> >> hull
> was
> >> expensive.
> >>
> >> I ran out of gas trying to beat a storm that was not predicted.  
> >> The
> lesson
> >> learned was to always carry a full reserve tank on the open lake.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> Rick Lange
> >>
> >>
> >>>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 1:29?PM ROGER PIHLAJA 
> >>>> <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Rick,
> >>>
> >>> For those of us that actually stay overnight at anchor, there are 
> >>> two major issues we worry about:
> >>> 1: Is my anchor going to drag?
> >>> 2: If the wind or current shifts, is my swing circle going to 
> >>> interfere with the boats anchored around me?
> >>>
> >>> With a given anchor type and anchor rode configuration, the best 
> >>> way to reduce the chance of dragging anchor is to increase the scope ratio.
> With
> >>> a small boat, like a Rhodes 22, an all chain anchor rode is simply 
> >>> too heavy to be a practical option.  I use a boat length of chain
> connected to
> >>> 150 ft of 3/8 inch diameter three strand nylon rode.
> >>>
> >>> The best way to assure your swing circle isn?t going to interfere 
> >>> with other boats is to make your swing radius as small as 
> >>> possible, with an acceptable scope ratio.  Why would I want to 
> >>> make my swing radius
> bigger?
> >>> The reality of small sailboat cruising is that we tend to arrive 
> >>> at an anchorage late in the day.  By this time, the power boats 
> >>> have already dropped their hooks for the evening.  We often have 
> >>> to find a place
> among
> >>> the boats that are already in place and the newcomer always has to
> yield
> >>> right of way.  Having a small swing radius lets us squeeze in 
> >>> where
> most
> >>> boats could not.
> >>>
> >>> My suggested anchoring technique enables one or the other of these
> issues
> >>> to be optimized.  All other anchoring scenarios put together make 
> >>> up a
> very
> >>> small % of the total use of your anchor.  I?m glad you were able 
> >>> to
> keep
> >>> your boat off the rocks by emergency anchoring.  But, this 
> >>> scenario has very little to do with normal cruising.  Good 
> >>> seamanship would dictate
> that
> >>> you inspect your rigging and pay attention to your fuel level so 
> >>> you
> don?t
> >>> have to emergency anchor.  But, those are entirely separate issues.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>>
>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Shroud 1.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 114309 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment.jpe>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Shroud 2.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 118074 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment-0001.jpe>


From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Thu Nov  2 13:28:05 2023
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2023 13:28:05 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail maintenance
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRq6ZkouTdZRDzzxB3Xdi3W6UO6bVjNZm8aRWxtEvpb3vg@mail.gmail.com>

I am sure at least one of you old salts on the list has the knowledge or
stored information to answer this question. I need to repair the seams on
my 130 foresail.
As best as I understand from  what information I have pieced together, the
THREAD is V 69 waxed polyester  and the NEEDLE size is a #16 Round/Sharp
for the machine.  I have access to a Sailrite  Ultrafeed LZS-1 sewing
machine. I am buying the needle and thread needed for my repair.
Can anyone confirm or correct my research.
Thanks for your help.

Cary Tolbert
S/V Whisper
Claytor Lake , VA

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Thu Nov  2 15:46:30 2023
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2023 15:46:30 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail maintenance
In-Reply-To: <CAPQvPRq6ZkouTdZRDzzxB3Xdi3W6UO6bVjNZm8aRWxtEvpb3vg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPQvPRq6ZkouTdZRDzzxB3Xdi3W6UO6bVjNZm8aRWxtEvpb3vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT5JfQ-iNo6urLp+b5BADVqs5HPA=G6D58UkXh1Fm3DDXg@mail.gmail.com>

I suggest that you call Sailrite. They are very helpful and then you know
for sure.
Graham Stewart
gstewart.gm at gmail.com


On Thu, Nov 2, 2023 at 1:28?PM Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com> wrote:

> I am sure at least one of you old salts on the list has the knowledge or
> stored information to answer this question. I need to repair the seams on
> my 130 foresail.
> As best as I understand from  what information I have pieced together, the
> THREAD is V 69 waxed polyester  and the NEEDLE size is a #16 Round/Sharp
> for the machine.  I have access to a Sailrite  Ultrafeed LZS-1 sewing
> machine. I am buying the needle and thread needed for my repair.
> Can anyone confirm or correct my research.
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Cary Tolbert
> S/V Whisper
> Claytor Lake , VA
>

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Thu Nov  2 16:14:49 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2023 16:14:49 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36b2z3zki_oU7fnJ++Xq7QDCGZpmkYqoFiVD4qfQqHdrAQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36bG9hyBNLq8_0T9-UHz3wE_PYVF0b9Wz
 4BHvOc3fMZqSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36YAtZ0raLKr4v0qVEYDpyOcKCSH2Xx3C3BtBZGG3H=0CA@mail.gmail.com>
 <004601da0cf9$d6196730$824c3590$@ebsmed.com>
 <CABkv36b2z3zki_oU7fnJ++Xq7QDCGZpmkYqoFiVD4qfQqHdrAQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002801da0dc9$3c052a50$b40f7ef0$@ebsmed.com>

Rick,

One needs to define "great yard." The could have great prices, great turnaround and, possibly, mechanics that are "great" at getting the job done properly. Your mileage may vary.

I have owned and sailed my Rhodes 22s (two of them) since 1981. They tend to make lots of weird sounds as the hull, seats and sails take on various loads. As long as the cockpit benches didn't flex to the point of creating stress fractures, I never saw a reason to beef up the structure. Fiberglass is fairly flexible depending on age and temperature. I would be concerned that the added stringers concentrated the forces to other structural members in the attempt to make the benches more rigid. Keep an eye on the points of attachment and areas that may now distribute the forces (cockpit floor and bulkheads, etc.)

Just my $0.02. Engineers can be such an annoying group ...

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Rick Lange
Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 3:39 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Mike,

Actually, fixed by a great yard, Sailing, Inc. in Cleveland.  They also added cockpit bench stringers because of the flexing that took place during that journey in the chop.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Wed, Nov 1, 2023 at 3:30?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> Rick,
>
> "Repaired" not "Fixed" as some yards perform substandard repairs that 
> don't really fix the problem.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
>


From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Thu Nov  2 16:16:31 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2023 16:16:31 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMPPQdNdCu1TSRwiEVSByCjAOx+UXJ4g-Z9p3AECP-8axA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36bG9hyBNLq8_0T9-UHz3wE_PYVF0b9Wz
 4BHvOc3fMZqSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36YAtZ0raLKr4v0qVEYDpyOcKCSH2Xx3C3BtBZGG3H=0CA@mail.gmail.com>
 <004601da0cf9$d6196730$824c3590$@ebsmed.com>
 <CAB-twMPPQdNdCu1TSRwiEVSByCjAOx+UXJ4g-Z9p3AECP-8axA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002901da0dc9$78eff3f0$6acfdbd0$@ebsmed.com>

Todd,

As an engineer, I have spent my career redesigning poorly "fixed" stuff!

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Todd Tavares
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2023 7:10 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Michael, you are starting to sound like me..

I'm an elevator repairman. Often a customer will ask "Did you fix
it?"...and I'll  say, "No...but I got it running."   LOL

Todd T

On Wed, Nov 1, 2023, 3:30 PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> "Repaired" not "Fixed" as some yards perform substandard repairs that 
> don't really fix the problem.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of 
> Rick Lange
> Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 3:24 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> Hi Roger,
>
> When the tang pulled out on the water, it was not damaged.  Then I 
> took the boat to the yard and got it back the next Spring fixed.  
> That's all I know.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 1, 2023 at 3:13?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Rick,
> >
> > So, if the nut came loose and fell off, did they find the nut down 
> > behind the galley counter or maybe down in the bilge?  The nut in 
> > the picture looks like it's a nyloc locking nut meant to prevent 
> > something like this from happening.  Perhaps your nut was a conventional nut?
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf 
> > of Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 10:45 AM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >
> > Hi Todd,
> >
> > I expect it is the same for a '93.  When mine failed, probably the 
> > center nut came off to release the vertical tang, which is all I saw.
> > I didn't get a chance to see the actual repair take place so I don't 
> > know about the bolt heads.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Rick Lange
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Oct 31, 2023 at 7:30?PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Roger, Rick, All,
> > >
> > > I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which 
> > > run up through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is 
> > > constructed for
> > that
> > > matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976 model 
> > > Rhodes 22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner 
> > > out with a
> > series
> > > of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two tangs, crossed 
> > > and
> > bolted
> > > together. I never investigated them any more than making sure the 
> > > nuts
> > were
> > > tight. But looking back at the pictures now, I can't figure out 
> > > where the heads of the bolts were, but guess they were behind the 
> > > rub rail. (?) I have never taken the rub rail off any of the three
> Rhodes 22s I've owned.
> > >
> > > Todd T
> > >
> > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was 
> > > scrubbed...
> > > Name: Shroud 1.JPG
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 114309 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhod
> > es 
> > 22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9
> > ae
> > %2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95293
> > %7 
> > C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7CUnk
> > no 
> > wn%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWw
> > iL
> > CJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=gbWKeWnmngHtx9ogGPYk8iQHRV5rauoI
> > x5
> > 2DugReIWg%3D&reserved=0
> > <
> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311
> > ea
> > 9ae/attachment.jpe
> > >
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was 
> > > scrubbed...
> > > Name: Shroud 2.JPG
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 118074 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhod
> > es 
> > 22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9
> > ae
> > %2Fattachment-0001.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae
> > 95 
> > 293%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%
> > 7C 
> > Unknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik
> > 1h 
> > aWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=s6IbXYHEp08qZscfZdZVoLviyjo
> > hD
> > 5MBR6fKAL6CG60%3D&reserved=0
> > <
> > http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231031/311
> > ea
> > 9ae/attachment-0001.jpe
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>


From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Thu Nov  2 16:29:36 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2023 16:29:36 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail maintenance
In-Reply-To: <CAPQvPRq6ZkouTdZRDzzxB3Xdi3W6UO6bVjNZm8aRWxtEvpb3vg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPQvPRq6ZkouTdZRDzzxB3Xdi3W6UO6bVjNZm8aRWxtEvpb3vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002a01da0dcb$4caefeb0$e60cfc10$@ebsmed.com>

Cary,

As someone who prides himself in being able to work on nearly all aspects of my Rhodes 22, I have not attempted to perform anything but the most basic sail repairs. I simply drop my sails with the local sail loft where they can completely layout the entire sail to work on it flat. Not only is their sewing machine in the floor but they know the materials much better than I ever will from watching a YouTube video.

Find a reasonably priced loft and let them do the work. I worked with North Sails for years and recently found Onesails in Huntington, NY (Long Island). Sometimes they have been able to add years of good sailing life to my old, blown out sails. You never know what you will find.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Cary Tolbert
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2023 1:28 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Sail maintenance

I am sure at least one of you old salts on the list has the knowledge or stored information to answer this question. I need to repair the seams on my 130 foresail.
As best as I understand from  what information I have pieced together, the THREAD is V 69 waxed polyester  and the NEEDLE size is a #16 Round/Sharp for the machine.  I have access to a Sailrite  Ultrafeed LZS-1 sewing machine. I am buying the needle and thread needed for my repair.
Can anyone confirm or correct my research.
Thanks for your help.

Cary Tolbert
S/V Whisper
Claytor Lake , VA


From sea20 at verizon.net  Fri Nov  3 08:46:46 2023
From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews)
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2023 08:46:46 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cockpit seat drains in Lazerette
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+BaR+9=yESOTFMpVaH=ibo5w0Z_ddwYoTdu_1mAqzw-cA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJGJx+BaR+9=yESOTFMpVaH=ibo5w0Z_ddwYoTdu_1mAqzw-cA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <19E7A9AF-5943-4455-BC6D-ABA4A05DFCB5@verizon.net>

Thanks for the reminder about those bench drain hoses. My 86? looks original and I meant to change them last year.
Scott A.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 1, 2023, at 6:01 PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?This is just to caution about aging hoses used for the seat drains.  My
> 1989 had corrugated white tubing 1 1/4 ID.  I have often had unexplained
> water in the bilge and each time I had water in the Laz I chalked it up to
> clogged seat drains from leaves or gumballs etc.  that came along when my
> winter tarp getting shredded by storms.  Recently a tropical storm came
> along as my tarp was reaching the end of it's life and exposed the stern
> area.  I came to the boat to find the front of the trailer completely off
> the ground and the laz. nearly full of water.  I discovered the drain hoses
> to have cracks and they were fragile as eggshells once I started handling
> them.  Clearly they have not had sun exposure but after nearly 35 years the
> plastic is done.
> 
> Just another thought, about 10 years ago in Colorado one of the racers in
> the club had a brand new boat ,  22 ft I think, can't remember the brand.
> Anyway, he capsized in a race, got towed to shore.  They righted the boat,
> got it on trailer, and as they were pulling up the ramp the weight of water
> in the boat slammed into the stern and basically removed it (stern
> fiberglass).  So be careful if you ever have a laz full of water....


From lgioia at yahoo.com  Fri Nov  3 09:34:04 2023
From: lgioia at yahoo.com (Larry Gioia)
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2023 09:34:04 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Cockpit seat drains in Lazerette
In-Reply-To: <19E7A9AF-5943-4455-BC6D-ABA4A05DFCB5@verizon.net>
References: <19E7A9AF-5943-4455-BC6D-ABA4A05DFCB5@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <07501B36-E328-4FEF-8289-331BADDEE694@yahoo.com>

Thanks! I need to check my ?86 - must be similar. 

Larry

> On Nov 3, 2023, at 8:47?AM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks for the reminder about those bench drain hoses. My 86? looks original and I meant to change them last year.
> Scott A.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 1, 2023, at 6:01 PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?This is just to caution about aging hoses used for the seat drains.  My
>> 1989 had corrugated white tubing 1 1/4 ID.  I have often had unexplained
>> water in the bilge and each time I had water in the Laz I chalked it up to
>> clogged seat drains from leaves or gumballs etc.  that came along when my
>> winter tarp getting shredded by storms.  Recently a tropical storm came
>> along as my tarp was reaching the end of it's life and exposed the stern
>> area.  I came to the boat to find the front of the trailer completely off
>> the ground and the laz. nearly full of water.  I discovered the drain hoses
>> to have cracks and they were fragile as eggshells once I started handling
>> them.  Clearly they have not had sun exposure but after nearly 35 years the
>> plastic is done.
>> 
>> Just another thought, about 10 years ago in Colorado one of the racers in
>> the club had a brand new boat ,  22 ft I think, can't remember the brand.
>> Anyway, he capsized in a race, got towed to shore.  They righted the boat,
>> got it on trailer, and as they were pulling up the ramp the weight of water
>> in the boat slammed into the stern and basically removed it (stern
>> fiberglass).  So be careful if you ever have a laz full of water....
> 


From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Fri Nov  3 17:01:10 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2023 17:01:10 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <002801da0dc9$3c052a50$b40f7ef0$@ebsmed.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36YAtZ0raLKr4v0qVEYDpyOcKCSH2Xx3C3BtBZGG3H=0CA@mail.gmail.com>
 <004601da0cf9$d6196730$824c3590$@ebsmed.com>
 <CABkv36b2z3zki_oU7fnJ++Xq7QDCGZpmkYqoFiVD4qfQqHdrAQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <002801da0dc9$3c052a50$b40f7ef0$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36Ye804_=sOiy8qtem+FPxB259fF4p4btGbygq2g_p0rAw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Mike,

Fiberglass may be flexible, but gelcoat not that much.  For many years the
stringers stopped gelcoat cracking between the benches and the cabin
bulkhead and the lazarette beam.

There is no loss of space below the benches because the stringers are
tucked into the bench edge lip.   The only sacrifice is that the benches
are less comfortable sitting on them without cushions.  The flex forces are
either absorbed by the wood or harmlessly distributed elsewhere.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Thu, Nov 2, 2023 at 4:14?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> Rick,
>
> One needs to define "great yard." The could have great prices, great
> turnaround and, possibly, mechanics that are "great" at getting the job
> done properly. Your mileage may vary.
>
> I have owned and sailed my Rhodes 22s (two of them) since 1981. They tend
> to make lots of weird sounds as the hull, seats and sails take on various
> loads. As long as the cockpit benches didn't flex to the point of creating
> stress fractures, I never saw a reason to beef up the structure. Fiberglass
> is fairly flexible depending on age and temperature. I would be concerned
> that the added stringers concentrated the forces to other structural
> members in the attempt to make the benches more rigid. Keep an eye on the
> points of attachment and areas that may now distribute the forces (cockpit
> floor and bulkheads, etc.)
>
> Just my $0.02. Engineers can be such an annoying group ...
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Rick Lange
> Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 3:39 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> Mike,
>
> Actually, fixed by a great yard, Sailing, Inc. in Cleveland.  They also
> added cockpit bench stringers because of the flexing that took place during
> that journey in the chop.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 1, 2023 at 3:30?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Rick,
> >
> > "Repaired" not "Fixed" as some yards perform substandard repairs that
> > don't really fix the problem.
> >
> > Mike
> > s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > Nissequogue River, NY
> > I?d rather be sailing :~)
> >
> >
>
>

From ruehbl at msn.com  Fri Nov  3 17:41:15 2023
From: ruehbl at msn.com (BARRY RUEHLEN)
Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2023 21:41:15 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <00bc01da0da8$ca6ae1c0$5f40a540$@gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB-twMNK+GMAx+nuwWcghBFChY8AvzA=xynF2 YjdB7JVaYJFaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABkv36bG9hyBNLq8_0T9-UHz3wE_PYVF0b9Wz4BHvOc3fMZqSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668376042F6016DD5B4ABA1C80A7A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <00bc01da0da8$ca6ae1c0$5f40a540$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <IA1PR19MB6498D763FD19876F7B36503EC1A5A@IA1PR19MB6498.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Agreed Joe. Got a bit bushwacked

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of jpd9668 at gmail.com <jpd9668 at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2023 12:22:29 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

How did we get from Anchoring to Chain Plates?

Just askin'. One of the features of The List is that a Rhodie can search the Archives by subject. If I were searching for Upper Shroud (Actually Main Stay) I would miss a good discussion because it's buried in a thread on Anchoring!

Since I've crossed over, I don't have any stays or shrouds, but I do have an anchor (Actually three).

Joe Dempsey
Trojan 42 MY
M V Voyager
Ex-Rhodes 22 (1989-2005)
S V Respite
Deltaville, VA



-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA
Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 3:13 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Hi Rick,

So, if the nut came loose and fell off, did they find the nut down behind the galley counter or maybe down in the bilge?  The nut in the picture looks like it's a nyloc locking nut meant to prevent something like this from happening.  Perhaps your nut was a conventional nut?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 1, 2023 10:45 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Hi Todd,

I expect it is the same for a '93.  When mine failed, probably the center nut came off to release the vertical tang, which is all I saw.  I didn't get a chance to see the actual repair take place so I don't know about the bolt heads.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Tue, Oct 31, 2023 at 7:30?PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger, Rick, All,
>
> I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which run
> up through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is constructed
> for that matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976
> model Rhodes 22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner
> out with a series of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two
> tangs, crossed and bolted together. I never investigated them any more
> than making sure the nuts were tight. But looking back at the pictures
> now, I can't figure out where the heads of the bolts were, but guess
> they were behind the rub rail. (?) I have never taken the rub rail off any of the three Rhodes 22s I've owned.
>
> Todd T
>
> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was
> scrubbed...
> Name: Shroud 1.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 114309 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes%2F&data=05%7C01%7C%7Cd1cbef4bf932447c673408dbdbbfef7c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638345389652775268%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=WjiCHXsrtXER5lvaOxIww7j0aH9GdUCN%2FgXVWGFjfIY%3D&reserved=0<http://rhodes/>
> 22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae
> %2Fattachment.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95293%7
> C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7CUnkno
> wn%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiL
> CJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=gbWKeWnmngHtx9ogGPYk8iQHRV5rauoIx5
> 2DugReIWg%3D&reserved=0<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fat&data=05%7C01%7C%7Cd1cbef4bf932447c673408dbdbbfef7c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638345389652931370%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=qUxmVfU2BhwBqAREHTQCJ2V43b6dPaYOCFIrvKhUhso%3D&reserved=0
> tachments/20231031/311ea9ae/attachment.jpe>
> >
> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was
> scrubbed...
> Name: Shroud 2.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 118074 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes%2F&data=05%7C01%7C%7Cd1cbef4bf932447c673408dbdbbfef7c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638345389652931370%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=kJXiwdoGRizkS%2Bz5atTHTZzU3wjRsuLDt2AOfmMxyxA%3D&reserved=0<http://rhodes/>
> 22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae
> %2Fattachment-0001.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Ceaac7b4ce6fc463d4bdf08dbdae95293%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638344467900025613%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=s6IbXYHEp08qZscfZdZVoLviyjohD5MBR6fKAL6CG60%3D&reserved=0<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231031%2F311ea9ae%2Fattachment-0001.jpe&data=05%7C01%7C%7Cd1cbef4bf932447c673408dbdbbfef7c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638345389652931370%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=xyJuKJVQHugHIEBEPvvFllnsDQ1rOkpf0WeJR%2BudCPU%3D&reserved=0>
> >
>


From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Sat Nov  4 11:27:37 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2023 10:27:37 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light wattage
Message-ID: <CANbEFCuQMar2eiFaY89vUm7Bj15dY6wLpfPGxxBd_yHmogWXOA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello all,
I have the older style (1990) running lights. Does anyone know the max
wattage bulb I can use?  The ones I?m replacing are quite dim.

Many thanks,
Matt Wilson

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Sat Nov  4 16:43:27 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2023 15:43:27 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light wattage
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCuQMar2eiFaY89vUm7Bj15dY6wLpfPGxxBd_yHmogWXOA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCuQMar2eiFaY89vUm7Bj15dY6wLpfPGxxBd_yHmogWXOA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCtzm6=P8K8y0YiDzOBkYwjmTZsC8J+ZqXCVXS4=EJJSuA@mail.gmail.com>

Is there even an option for different watt bulbs. My current lights are
pretty dim but I don?t really want to go LED bright. Sorry for the basic
question but I?m interested to know if there is a middle ground.

Thanks everyone,
Matt

On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 10:27 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
> I have the older style (1990) running lights. Does anyone know the max
> wattage bulb I can use?  The ones I?m replacing are quite dim.
>
> Many thanks,
> Matt Wilson
>

From snstaum at gmail.com  Sat Nov  4 16:46:28 2023
From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum)
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2023 16:46:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light wattage
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCtzm6=P8K8y0YiDzOBkYwjmTZsC8J+ZqXCVXS4=EJJSuA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCuQMar2eiFaY89vUm7Bj15dY6wLpfPGxxBd_yHmogWXOA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCtzm6=P8K8y0YiDzOBkYwjmTZsC8J+ZqXCVXS4=EJJSuA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOo_FjdaX-o+ce-1HOBr2VRQXPp1c7uuNL58RnXRcdoO=D1XQw@mail.gmail.com>

I would go with LEDs.  They are brighter, last longer and use much less
battery.

*Thanks and Stay Well,*

*Stephen Staum*
*s/v Pinafore*

*Needham, MA*



On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:43?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Is there even an option for different watt bulbs. My current lights are
> pretty dim but I don?t really want to go LED bright. Sorry for the basic
> question but I?m interested to know if there is a middle ground.
>
> Thanks everyone,
> Matt
>
> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 10:27 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hello all,
> > I have the older style (1990) running lights. Does anyone know the max
> > wattage bulb I can use?  The ones I?m replacing are quite dim.
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > Matt Wilson
> >
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Sat Nov  4 17:50:20 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2023 16:50:20 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light wattage
In-Reply-To: <CAOo_FjdaX-o+ce-1HOBr2VRQXPp1c7uuNL58RnXRcdoO=D1XQw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCuQMar2eiFaY89vUm7Bj15dY6wLpfPGxxBd_yHmogWXOA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCtzm6=P8K8y0YiDzOBkYwjmTZsC8J+ZqXCVXS4=EJJSuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAOo_FjdaX-o+ce-1HOBr2VRQXPp1c7uuNL58RnXRcdoO=D1XQw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCsPH_XZT-PLCXHdA3H3odFDnX_9RG0ibpYyivBRbj+SyA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Stephen, is there a exact replacement?

On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 3:46 PM Stephen Staum <snstaum at gmail.com> wrote:

> I would go with LEDs.  They are brighter, last longer and use much less
> battery.
>
> *Thanks and Stay Well,*
>
> *Stephen Staum*
> *s/v Pinafore*
>
> *Needham, MA*
>
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:43?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Is there even an option for different watt bulbs. My current lights are
> > pretty dim but I don?t really want to go LED bright. Sorry for the basic
> > question but I?m interested to know if there is a middle ground.
> >
> > Thanks everyone,
> > Matt
> >
> > On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 10:27 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Hello all,
> > > I have the older style (1990) running lights. Does anyone know the max
> > > wattage bulb I can use?  The ones I?m replacing are quite dim.
> > >
> > > Many thanks,
> > > Matt Wilson
> > >
> >
>

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Sat Nov  4 19:17:29 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Sat, 04 Nov 2023 19:17:29 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light wattage.
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCuQMar2eiFaY89vUm7Bj15dY6wLpfPGxxBd_yHmogWXOA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6546d11b.4a0a0220.be7fb.61d1@mx.google.com>

They're most likely standard 1156 with 12-13 watts. Convert to LED @ 1.8 watts. Be sure to get the enclosed version and colors to match: red, green and white even with colored lenses.www.superbrightleds.comJoe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM V VoyagerEx Rhodes 22S V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> Date: 11/4/23  11:27 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light wattage Hello all,I have the older style (1990) running lights. Does anyone know the maxwattage bulb I can use?? The ones I?m replacing are quite dim.Many thanks,Matt Wilson

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Sat Nov  4 19:31:35 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Sat, 04 Nov 2023 19:31:35 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light wattage
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCsPH_XZT-PLCXHdA3H3odFDnX_9RG0ibpYyivBRbj+SyA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6546d45f.4a0a0220.87b26.6825@mx.google.com>

If your current lights are dim, you should check your wiring.? Could be bad connection either at light or at panel. OR it could be corrosion in the wiring. Someone may have used non-tinned copper wiring, so check continuity and voltage coming through those circuits.?Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM V VoyagerEx Rhodes 22S V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> Date: 11/4/23  5:50 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Running light wattage Thanks Stephen, is there a exact replacement?On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 3:46 PM Stephen Staum <snstaum at gmail.com> wrote:> I would go with LEDs.? They are brighter, last longer and use much less> battery.>> *Thanks and Stay Well,*>> *Stephen Staum*> *s/v Pinafore*>> *Needham, MA*>>>> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:43?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:>> > Is there even an option for different watt bulbs. My current lights are> > pretty dim but I don?t really want to go LED bright. Sorry for the basic> > question but I?m interested to know if there is a middle ground.> >> > Thanks everyone,> > Matt> >> > On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 10:27 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>> > wrote:> >> > > Hello all,> > > I have the older style (1990) running lights. Does anyone know the max> > > wattage bulb I can use?? The ones I?m replacing are quite dim.> > >> > > Many thanks,> > > Matt Wilson> > >> >>

From snstaum at gmail.com  Sun Nov  5 00:00:55 2023
From: snstaum at gmail.com (Stephen Staum)
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2023 00:00:55 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light wattage
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCsPH_XZT-PLCXHdA3H3odFDnX_9RG0ibpYyivBRbj+SyA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCuQMar2eiFaY89vUm7Bj15dY6wLpfPGxxBd_yHmogWXOA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCtzm6=P8K8y0YiDzOBkYwjmTZsC8J+ZqXCVXS4=EJJSuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAOo_FjdaX-o+ce-1HOBr2VRQXPp1c7uuNL58RnXRcdoO=D1XQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCsPH_XZT-PLCXHdA3H3odFDnX_9RG0ibpYyivBRbj+SyA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOo_FjeNgWPFxndoDtOHfe7K8-G2Gfp6ZVEwCESxiu-trNpZzg@mail.gmail.com>

Any good marine supply store should have them.

Stay Well,
Stephen Staum
s/v Pinafore
Needham, MA


On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 5:50 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Stephen, is there a exact replacement?
>
> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 3:46 PM Stephen Staum <snstaum at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I would go with LEDs.  They are brighter, last longer and use much less
> > battery.
> >
> > *Thanks and Stay Well,*
> >
> > *Stephen Staum*
> > *s/v Pinafore*
> >
> > *Needham, MA*
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:43?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Is there even an option for different watt bulbs. My current lights are
> > > pretty dim but I don?t really want to go LED bright. Sorry for the
> basic
> > > question but I?m interested to know if there is a middle ground.
> > >
> > > Thanks everyone,
> > > Matt
> > >
> > > On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 10:27 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hello all,
> > > > I have the older style (1990) running lights. Does anyone know the
> max
> > > > wattage bulb I can use?  The ones I?m replacing are quite dim.
> > > >
> > > > Many thanks,
> > > > Matt Wilson
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com  Sun Nov  5 06:21:20 2023
From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (Jeff Smith Photo)
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2023 06:21:20 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panels?
Message-ID: <CAM0HAmnDRZJp+QfKKJY9G7rMTJ98jBZPfN9aanFYm1_CpTbLcw@mail.gmail.com>

How do you check whether the solar panels are charging the battery?

Best Regards
Jeff Smith
www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net
732-236-1368

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Sun Nov  5 12:04:21 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Sun, 05 Nov 2023 12:04:21 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panels?
In-Reply-To: <CAM0HAmnDRZJp+QfKKJY9G7rMTJ98jBZPfN9aanFYm1_CpTbLcw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6547cb1c.4a0a0220.43e79.0191@mx.google.com>

You can use? volt meter. You can also check the Amps. Advise installing a controller to prevent over charging.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM V VoyagerEx-Rhodes 22S V Respite?Deltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Jeff Smith Photo <jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com> Date: 11/5/23  6:22 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panels? How do you check whether the solar panels are charging the battery?Best RegardsJeff Smithwww.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net732-236-1368

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sun Nov  5 15:14:04 2023
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sun, 05 Nov 2023 12:14:04 -0800
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panels?
Message-ID: <E1qzjVU-001xUY-1e@s152.servername.online>

I am aware of no instances where anybody reported overcharging or other damage to batteries resulting from connecting the small solar panels installed by General Boats directly (i.e. without a controller)

In my case, I have two 100 watt solar panels mounted on an arch over the aft end of the cockpit.  These are connected to a solar controller that lives in the lazarette, which is then connected to the house bank.  I still have the two small solar panels on the cabin roof, and these are connected directly to the batteries, as they were when I picked up the boat from General Boats

--Peter

> On 2023-11-05, at 12:04:21 EST, Joe Dempsey wrote:
>
> You can use&nbsp; volt meter. You can also check the Amps. Advise installing a 
> controller to prevent over charging.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM V VoyagerEx-Rhodes 
> 22S V Respite&nbsp;Deltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&amp;T 
> 5G smartphone 
> 


From tvpolise at aol.com  Sun Nov  5 17:28:34 2023
From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE)
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2023 17:28:34 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 89 Rhodes chainplate
References: <79C8FAE6-5409-4ADD-9F91-A4645B52A779.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <79C8FAE6-5409-4ADD-9F91-A4645B52A779@aol.com>

These are some photos from when my dock
Line failed in storm and shroud got stuck on dock destroying the chain plate escutcheon. It does look somewhat flimsy but I guess it?s been working. 

-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_3168.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 57033 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231105/6e74fb3e/attachment.jpg>
-------------- next part --------------



-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_3170.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 121439 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231105/6e74fb3e/attachment-0001.jpg>
-------------- next part --------------



-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_3171.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 119864 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231105/6e74fb3e/attachment-0002.jpg>
-------------- next part --------------


From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Sun Nov  5 17:35:23 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Sun, 05 Nov 2023 17:35:23 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panels?
In-Reply-To: <E1qzjVU-001xUY-1e@s152.servername.online>
Message-ID: <654818b1.050a0220.c4dfa.6bf9@mx.google.com>

Peter,The previous owner of Respite had to replace 4 Group 29 batteries. He said it was the solar chargers. From the little I know about electricity,? I agree with you, it seems unlikely that a 10 watt charger @ 1amp could over charge 600+ CCA batteries. But he was a EE, PhD from Cornell, what can I say?? Then again, I went to a little ol' southern state engineering school!Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM V VoyagerEx-Rhodes22S V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> Date: 11/5/23  3:14 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panels? I am aware of no instances where anybody reported overcharging or other damage to batteries resulting from connecting the small solar panels installed by General Boats directly (i.e. without a controller)In my case, I have two 100 watt solar panels mounted on an arch over the aft end of the cockpit.? These are connected to a solar controller that lives in the lazarette, which is then connected to the house bank.? I still have the two small solar panels on the cabin roof, and these are connected directly to the batteries, as they were when I picked up the boat from General Boats--Peter> On 2023-11-05, at 12:04:21 EST, Joe Dempsey wrote:>> You can use&nbsp; volt meter. You can also check the Amps. Advise installing a > controller to prevent over charging.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM V VoyagerEx-Rhodes > 22S V Respite&nbsp;Deltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&amp;T > 5G smartphone > 

From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com  Sun Nov  5 17:47:23 2023
From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule)
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2023 16:47:23 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panels?
In-Reply-To: <654818b1.050a0220.c4dfa.6bf9@mx.google.com>
References: <E1qzjVU-001xUY-1e@s152.servername.online>
 <654818b1.050a0220.c4dfa.6bf9@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CAEqJHY5Vkk-+QQEOgGnCq=fJZmED2nCRoWGnjdtUBifGQ54Bbg@mail.gmail.com>

Why did they have 4 batteries? Might be a herring... But my boat had 2 with
the factory setup from 2011 and the small panels wired as peter described.

If it wasn't for indoor storage I wouldn't have turned the batteries off.
In the slip I could leave the lights on and not have to connect to shore
power or worry.

On Sun, Nov 5, 2023, 4:35 PM jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Peter,The previous owner of Respite had to replace 4 Group 29 batteries.
> He said it was the solar chargers. From the little I know about
> electricity,  I agree with you, it seems unlikely that a 10 watt charger @
> 1amp could over charge 600+ CCA batteries. But he was a EE, PhD from
> Cornell, what can I say?  Then again, I went to a little ol' southern state
> engineering school!Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM V VoyagerEx-Rhodes22S V
> RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G
> smartphone
> -------- Original message --------From: Peter Nyberg <
> peter at sunnybeeches.com> Date: 11/5/23  3:14 PM  (GMT-05:00) To:
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panels? I
> am aware of no instances where anybody reported overcharging or other
> damage to batteries resulting from connecting the small solar panels
> installed by General Boats directly (i.e. without a controller)In my case,
> I have two 100 watt solar panels mounted on an arch over the aft end of the
> cockpit.  These are connected to a solar controller that lives in the
> lazarette, which is then connected to the house bank.  I still have the two
> small solar panels on the cabin roof, and these are connected directly to
> the batteries, as they were when I picked up the boat from General
> Boats--Peter> On 2023-11-05, at 12:04:21 EST, Joe Dempsey wrote:>> You can
> use&nbsp; volt meter. You can also check the Amps. Advise installing a >
> controller to prevent over charging.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM V
> VoyagerEx-Rhodes > 22S V Respite&nbsp;Deltaville, VASent via the Samsung
> Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&amp;T > 5G smartphone >
>

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Sun Nov  5 20:16:27 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Sun, 05 Nov 2023 20:16:27 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panels?
In-Reply-To: <CAEqJHY5Vkk-+QQEOgGnCq=fJZmED2nCRoWGnjdtUBifGQ54Bbg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <65483e7c.050a0220.da919.6a72@mx.google.com>

Only had 2 at a time. He had to replace 2 on two occasions. The two that came with the boat had been removed and stored indoors for five years. I winter stored? them each year on a 3 stage charger with float and an equalizer. They were 12 years old when I replaced the them.JoeSent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Tom Van Heule <tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> Date: 11/5/23  5:47 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panels? Why did they have 4 batteries? Might be a herring... But my boat had 2 withthe factory setup from 2011 and the small panels wired as peter described.If it wasn't for indoor storage I wouldn't have turned the batteries off.In the slip I could leave the lights on and not have to connect to shorepower or worry.On Sun, Nov 5, 2023, 4:35 PM jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:> Peter,The previous owner of Respite had to replace 4 Group 29 batteries.> He said it was the solar chargers. From the little I know about> electricity,? I agree with you, it seems unlikely that a 10 watt charger @> 1amp could over charge 600+ CCA batteries. But he was a EE, PhD from> Cornell, what can I say?? Then again, I went to a little ol' southern state> engineering school!Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM V VoyagerEx-Rhodes22S V> RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G> smartphone> -------- Original message --------From: Peter Nyberg <> peter at sunnybeeches.com> Date: 11/5/23? 3:14 PM? (GMT-05:00) To:> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Solar panels? I> am aware of no instances where anybody reported overcharging or other> damage to batteries resulting from connecting the small solar panels> installed by General Boats directly (i.e. without a controller)In my case,> I have two 100 watt solar panels mounted on an arch over the aft end of the> cockpit.? These are connected to a solar controller that lives in the> lazarette, which is then connected to the house bank.? I still have the two> small solar panels on the cabin roof, and these are connected directly to> the batteries, as they were when I picked up the boat from General> Boats--Peter> On 2023-11-05, at 12:04:21 EST, Joe Dempsey wrote:>> You can> use&nbsp; volt meter. You can also check the Amps. Advise installing a >> controller to prevent over charging.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM V> VoyagerEx-Rhodes > 22S V Respite&nbsp;Deltaville, VASent via the Samsung> Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&amp;T > 5G smartphone >>

From michael.4591 at gmail.com  Mon Nov  6 09:41:14 2023
From: michael.4591 at gmail.com (Michael Corley)
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2023 09:41:14 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Big boat.
In-Reply-To: <B321AA9B-FB7F-444A-9F55-1EB6DC2AF5E5@aol.com>
References: <B321AA9B-FB7F-444A-9F55-1EB6DC2AF5E5.ref@aol.com>
 <B321AA9B-FB7F-444A-9F55-1EB6DC2AF5E5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CACSd1jKiVGaTZEYMb-s_4c=dp67Uyq6y0gOwJjiC0mNTdzwLgg@mail.gmail.com>

 An autumn afternoon sail in Hampton Roads where tonnage matters!

Mike
s/v Ranger
99 Rhodes
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_4018.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 97613 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231106/c23e061c/attachment.jpg>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_4019.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 110325 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231106/c23e061c/attachment-0001.jpg>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Mon Nov  6 22:02:52 2023
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2023 21:02:52 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Big boat.
In-Reply-To: <CACSd1jKiVGaTZEYMb-s_4c=dp67Uyq6y0gOwJjiC0mNTdzwLgg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <B321AA9B-FB7F-444A-9F55-1EB6DC2AF5E5.ref@aol.com>
 <B321AA9B-FB7F-444A-9F55-1EB6DC2AF5E5@aol.com>
 <CACSd1jKiVGaTZEYMb-s_4c=dp67Uyq6y0gOwJjiC0mNTdzwLgg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiU3-eexjfCu2uu4SwEXF303i_OAWTVVSbAjy+MpQeaOjQ@mail.gmail.com>

Remember you are under sail and have right away and you have fabulous
insurance. Show those scurvy rats who is in charge. Arrgh.
Chris G
XENOS

On Mon, Nov 6, 2023 at 8:41 AM Michael Corley <michael.4591 at gmail.com>
wrote:

>  An autumn afternoon sail in Hampton Roads where tonnage matters!
>
> Mike
> s/v Ranger
> 99 Rhodes
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: IMG_4018.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 97613 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231106/c23e061c/attachment.jpg
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: IMG_4019.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 110325 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231106/c23e061c/attachment-0001.jpg
> >
>

From rodellner at mac.com  Mon Nov  6 22:31:56 2023
From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner)
Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2023 20:31:56 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Big boat.
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiU3-eexjfCu2uu4SwEXF303i_OAWTVVSbAjy+MpQeaOjQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiU3-eexjfCu2uu4SwEXF303i_OAWTVVSbAjy+MpQeaOjQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3C2F4D83-0F5B-4A17-BF8C-11024833E3A7@mac.com>

Love it Chris?..our best to you and Alice.  Rod and Mary

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 6, 2023, at 8:03 PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Remember you are under sail and have right away and you have fabulous
> insurance. Show those scurvy rats who is in charge. Arrgh.
> Chris G
> XENOS
> 
>> On Mon, Nov 6, 2023 at 8:41 AM Michael Corley <michael.4591 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> An autumn afternoon sail in Hampton Roads where tonnage matters!
>> 
>> Mike
>> s/v Ranger
>> 99 Rhodes
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: IMG_4018.jpg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 97613 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231106/c23e061c/attachment.jpg
>>> 
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: IMG_4019.jpg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 110325 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231106/c23e061c/attachment-0001.jpg
>>> 
>> 

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Tue Nov  7 10:00:13 2023
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 15:00:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Delaminating tiller handle
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi All,? ?My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you can see light through a gap in the wood.? I want to glue it back together and then revarnish it.? I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for getting glue into the gap.? I was thinking of trying to thin some glue and injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to force it through such a tiny lumen.? Anyone know of a better approach?? Any word glue that can be made pretty thin?
Thanks,? ?Peter

From kensimolo at gmail.com  Tue Nov  7 10:07:50 2023
From: kensimolo at gmail.com (Ken Simolo)
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 07:07:50 -0800
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Delaminating tiller handle
In-Reply-To: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAK_z4DprX4qWo4WcmpFRBg4w4b1ti+iozcWj+SPTgSkvHW_6Fw@mail.gmail.com>

I recently had the same problem and did as you were thinking with a
waterproof wood glue and it worked fine by clamping after applying the glue
(lots of clamps but not too much pressure and wiping off squeeze out).
Thinned epoxy might be better.

Ken


On November 7, 2023 at 10:00:30 AM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list (
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org) wrote:

Hi All,   My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you can
see light through a gap in the wood.  I want to glue it back together and
then revarnish it.  I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
getting glue into the gap.  I was thinking of trying to thin some glue and
injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to force
it through such a tiny lumen.  Anyone know of a better approach?  Any word
glue that can be made pretty thin?
Thanks,   Peter

From mark at whipplefamily.com  Tue Nov  7 10:15:43 2023
From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple)
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 10:15:43 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Delaminating tiller handle
In-Reply-To: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>

I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in FL
called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I recall.

I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the tiller
on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used unthickened
epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken it
and put some of that in the gap as well.

There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of the
tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.

Mark

Boston, MA
2000 R22 *When and If*

On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Hi All,   My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you can
> see light through a gap in the wood.  I want to glue it back together and
> then revarnish it.  I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
> getting glue into the gap.  I was thinking of trying to thin some glue and
> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to force
> it through such a tiny lumen.  Anyone know of a better approach?  Any word
> glue that can be made pretty thin?
> Thanks,   Peter
>

From mark at whipplefamily.com  Tue Nov  7 10:17:49 2023
From: mark at whipplefamily.com (Mark Whipple)
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 10:17:49 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Delaminating tiller handle
In-Reply-To: <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA+WP5ARP2U2cSjoRctbCF3uTE3hdt9UkVSCPqrcqAWMp4x_52Q@mail.gmail.com>

FYI when working with epoxy I always try to sand off the excess the next
day before it hardens completely.

On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:15?AM Mark Whipple <mark at whipplefamily.com> wrote:

> I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
> syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in FL
> called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I recall.
>
> I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the tiller
> on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
> mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
> clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used unthickened
> epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken it
> and put some of that in the gap as well.
>
> There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
> filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
> looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of the
> tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.
>
> Mark
>
> Boston, MA
> 2000 R22 *When and If*
>
> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
>> Hi All,   My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you
>> can see light through a gap in the wood.  I want to glue it back together
>> and then revarnish it.  I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
>> getting glue into the gap.  I was thinking of trying to thin some glue and
>> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to force
>> it through such a tiny lumen.  Anyone know of a better approach?  Any word
>> glue that can be made pretty thin?
>> Thanks,   Peter
>>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Tue Nov  7 11:03:08 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 16:03:08 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Delaminating tiller handle
In-Reply-To: <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,

At one point in my career at the Dow Chemical Co, I was chief engineer at a plant where we made C fiber insulation for the, then new, C-17 cargo plane.  As I recall, a 10%wt solution of epoxy in acetone was thin enough to spray with a conventional paint sprayer.  The thinned epoxy/acetone solution would flow by capillary action along the fibers and tended to gather at the fiber/fiber intersections.  Here, the acetone would evaporate.  When the epoxy kicked off, it bound the fibers together.  I would use the West System 209 extra slow hardener and 105 resin.  Mix up the resin/acetone & hardener/acetone separately and then mix them together.  At 75 degrees F, this will give you ~45 minutes of pot life and ~24 hours to fully cure.  This will be plenty of time for the acetone to evaporate and diffuse away.  Until the epoxy kicks off, the mixture will be thin enough to inject with a hypodermic syringe.  But, you could also just brush it over the crack and let it be drawn in by capillary action.  The thinned epoxy will also soak into the wood along the crack.  So, there will be very little squeeze out.  This will greatly strengthen the repair.  Once you have the crack filled, clamp the piece to force the crack faces together and clean up any squeeze out with a cloth damp with acetone.  You will end up with a solid epoxy/wood composite that will last so long, you?ll be able to pass it down to your grandchildren.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2023, at 10:16?AM, Mark Whipple <mark at whipplefamily.com> wrote:
> 
> ?I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
> syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in FL
> called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I recall.
> 
> I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the tiller
> on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
> mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
> clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used unthickened
> epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken it
> and put some of that in the gap as well.
> 
> There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
> filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
> looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of the
> tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.
> 
> Mark
> 
> Boston, MA
> 2000 R22 *When and If*
> 
>> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All,   My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you can
>> see light through a gap in the wood.  I want to glue it back together and
>> then revarnish it.  I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
>> getting glue into the gap.  I was thinking of trying to thin some glue and
>> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to force
>> it through such a tiny lumen.  Anyone know of a better approach?  Any word
>> glue that can be made pretty thin?
>> Thanks,   Peter
>> 

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Tue Nov  7 13:45:01 2023
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 13:45:01 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Delaminating tiller handle
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT58rW1EP9iqqrL5o9OkBEEdXBOgQYyAWiiB0-S3UFnHyA@mail.gmail.com>

Roger:

This is really useful information! I have always wanted to know the best
way to thin epoxy.

 Just to be clear,  both the epoxy and the hardener are
separately thinned before the two are mixed together. The ratio of the
epoxy or hardener to acetone is one part epoxy/hardener to 10 parts acetone
- or do I have that backwards?

Thanks for this!


Graham Stewart
Agile 76


On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 11:03?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Peter,
>
> At one point in my career at the Dow Chemical Co, I was chief engineer at
> a plant where we made C fiber insulation for the, then new, C-17 cargo
> plane.  As I recall, a 10%wt solution of epoxy in acetone was thin enough
> to spray with a conventional paint sprayer.  The thinned epoxy/acetone
> solution would flow by capillary action along the fibers and tended to
> gather at the fiber/fiber intersections.  Here, the acetone would
> evaporate.  When the epoxy kicked off, it bound the fibers together.  I
> would use the West System 209 extra slow hardener and 105 resin.  Mix up
> the resin/acetone & hardener/acetone separately and then mix them
> together.  At 75 degrees F, this will give you ~45 minutes of pot life and
> ~24 hours to fully cure.  This will be plenty of time for the acetone to
> evaporate and diffuse away.  Until the epoxy kicks off, the mixture will be
> thin enough to inject with a hypodermic syringe.  But, you could also just
> brush it over the crack and let it be drawn in by capillary action.  The
> thinned epoxy will also soak into the wood along the crack.  So, there will
> be very little squeeze out.  This will greatly strengthen the repair.  Once
> you have the crack filled, clamp the piece to force the crack faces
> together and clean up any squeeze out with a cloth damp with acetone.  You
> will end up with a solid epoxy/wood composite that will last so long,
> you?ll be able to pass it down to your grandchildren.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Nov 7, 2023, at 10:16?AM, Mark Whipple <mark at whipplefamily.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
> > syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in FL
> > called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I recall.
> >
> > I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the tiller
> > on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
> > mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
> > clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used unthickened
> > epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken it
> > and put some of that in the gap as well.
> >
> > There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
> > filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
> > looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of the
> > tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > Boston, MA
> > 2000 R22 *When and If*
> >
> >> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi All,   My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you
> can
> >> see light through a gap in the wood.  I want to glue it back together
> and
> >> then revarnish it.  I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
> >> getting glue into the gap.  I was thinking of trying to thin some glue
> and
> >> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to
> force
> >> it through such a tiny lumen.  Anyone know of a better approach?  Any
> word
> >> glue that can be made pretty thin?
> >> Thanks,   Peter
> >>
>

From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Tue Nov  7 13:57:25 2023
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 13:57:25 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Delaminating tiller handle
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT58rW1EP9iqqrL5o9OkBEEdXBOgQYyAWiiB0-S3UFnHyA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CACdaeT58rW1EP9iqqrL5o9OkBEEdXBOgQYyAWiiB0-S3UFnHyA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRpj-AbePZxPxzsuCKu9HAXvJ2eOWDAuZkm5siKNPPuL-g@mail.gmail.com>

This seems like a good thread to tie into, Tabernacle pulled out of the
mast step. Filled with epoxy and silica. My question is: what size hole do
I drill for a # 12 SS sheet metal Screw?  I have found info on hardwood,
soft wood, sheet metal but  I can't find anything for epoxy drilling.
Thanks guys. I know someone on the list has experience in this matter.

Cary
S/V Whisper 86

On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 1:45?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger:
>
> This is really useful information! I have always wanted to know the best
> way to thin epoxy.
>
>  Just to be clear,  both the epoxy and the hardener are
> separately thinned before the two are mixed together. The ratio of the
> epoxy or hardener to acetone is one part epoxy/hardener to 10 parts acetone
> - or do I have that backwards?
>
> Thanks for this!
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile 76
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 11:03?AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Peter,
> >
> > At one point in my career at the Dow Chemical Co, I was chief engineer at
> > a plant where we made C fiber insulation for the, then new, C-17 cargo
> > plane.  As I recall, a 10%wt solution of epoxy in acetone was thin enough
> > to spray with a conventional paint sprayer.  The thinned epoxy/acetone
> > solution would flow by capillary action along the fibers and tended to
> > gather at the fiber/fiber intersections.  Here, the acetone would
> > evaporate.  When the epoxy kicked off, it bound the fibers together.  I
> > would use the West System 209 extra slow hardener and 105 resin.  Mix up
> > the resin/acetone & hardener/acetone separately and then mix them
> > together.  At 75 degrees F, this will give you ~45 minutes of pot life
> and
> > ~24 hours to fully cure.  This will be plenty of time for the acetone to
> > evaporate and diffuse away.  Until the epoxy kicks off, the mixture will
> be
> > thin enough to inject with a hypodermic syringe.  But, you could also
> just
> > brush it over the crack and let it be drawn in by capillary action.  The
> > thinned epoxy will also soak into the wood along the crack.  So, there
> will
> > be very little squeeze out.  This will greatly strengthen the repair.
> Once
> > you have the crack filled, clamp the piece to force the crack faces
> > together and clean up any squeeze out with a cloth damp with acetone.
> You
> > will end up with a solid epoxy/wood composite that will last so long,
> > you?ll be able to pass it down to your grandchildren.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Nov 7, 2023, at 10:16?AM, Mark Whipple <mark at whipplefamily.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > ?I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
> > > syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in
> FL
> > > called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I
> recall.
> > >
> > > I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the
> tiller
> > > on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
> > > mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
> > > clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used
> unthickened
> > > epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken
> it
> > > and put some of that in the gap as well.
> > >
> > > There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
> > > filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
> > > looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of
> the
> > > tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.
> > >
> > > Mark
> > >
> > > Boston, MA
> > > 2000 R22 *When and If*
> > >
> > >> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> > >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Hi All,   My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you
> > can
> > >> see light through a gap in the wood.  I want to glue it back together
> > and
> > >> then revarnish it.  I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques
> for
> > >> getting glue into the gap.  I was thinking of trying to thin some glue
> > and
> > >> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to
> > force
> > >> it through such a tiny lumen.  Anyone know of a better approach?  Any
> > word
> > >> glue that can be made pretty thin?
> > >> Thanks,   Peter
> > >>
> >
>

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Tue Nov  7 14:05:01 2023
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 14:05:01 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Delaminating tiller handle
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <E9919E99-DB8D-40BB-82D0-AEA8F3E34FB1@gmail.com>

Excellent advice!  I will save this message for future reference.

This is why it?s helpful to have engineers on board the listserv . . .

Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC


> On Nov 7, 2023, at 11:03 AM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Peter,
> 
> At one point in my career at the Dow Chemical Co, I was chief engineer at a plant where we made C fiber insulation for the, then new, C-17 cargo plane.  As I recall, a 10%wt solution of epoxy in acetone was thin enough to spray with a conventional paint sprayer.  The thinned epoxy/acetone solution would flow by capillary action along the fibers and tended to gather at the fiber/fiber intersections.  Here, the acetone would evaporate.  When the epoxy kicked off, it bound the fibers together.  I would use the West System 209 extra slow hardener and 105 resin.  Mix up the resin/acetone & hardener/acetone separately and then mix them together.  At 75 degrees F, this will give you ~45 minutes of pot life and ~24 hours to fully cure.  This will be plenty of time for the acetone to evaporate and diffuse away.  Until the epoxy kicks off, the mixture will be thin enough to inject with a hypodermic syringe.  But, you could also just brush it over the crack and let it be drawn in by capillary action.  The thinned epoxy will also soak into the wood along the crack.  So, there will be very little squeeze out.  This will greatly strengthen the repair.  Once you have the crack filled, clamp the piece to force the crack faces together and clean up any squeeze out with a cloth damp with acetone.  You will end up with a solid epoxy/wood composite that will last so long, you?ll be able to pass it down to your grandchildren.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 7, 2023, at 10:16?AM, Mark Whipple <mark at whipplefamily.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
>> syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in FL
>> called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I recall.
>> 
>> I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the tiller
>> on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
>> mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
>> clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used unthickened
>> epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken it
>> and put some of that in the gap as well.
>> 
>> There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
>> filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
>> looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of the
>> tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.
>> 
>> Mark
>> 
>> Boston, MA
>> 2000 R22 *When and If*
>> 
>>> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi All,   My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you can
>>> see light through a gap in the wood.  I want to glue it back together and
>>> then revarnish it.  I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
>>> getting glue into the gap.  I was thinking of trying to thin some glue and
>>> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to force
>>> it through such a tiny lumen.  Anyone know of a better approach?  Any word
>>> glue that can be made pretty thin?
>>> Thanks,   Peter
>>> 


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Tue Nov  7 16:28:06 2023
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2023 13:28:06 -0800
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Delaminating tiller handle
Message-ID: <E1r0TcE-002ADS-0k@s152.servername.online>

Cary,

I've done this, but I always just eyeball it by holding the drill bit next to the screw.  If you're going to use a reference table, I'd use the size suggested for hardwood.

--Peter

> On 2023-11-07, at 13:57:25 EST, Cary Tolbert wrote:
>
> This seems like a good thread to tie into, Tabernacle pulled out of the mast 
> step. Filled with epoxy and silica. My question is: what size hole do I drill 
> for a # 12 SS sheet metal Screw?  I have found info on hardwood, soft wood, 
> sheet metal but  I can't find anything for epoxy drilling. Thanks guys. I know 
> someone on the list has experience in this matter. 
> 
> Cary
> S/V Whisper 86
> 
> 


From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Tue Nov  7 16:29:34 2023
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2023 16:29:34 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Delaminating tiller handle
In-Reply-To: <E1r0TcE-002ADS-0k@s152.servername.online>
References: <E1r0TcE-002ADS-0k@s152.servername.online>
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRpGaaPhB+QCXX+dPdvC2HhniR88Gq0LrKOM=4t30=Py5A@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Peter

Cary

On Tue, Nov 7, 2023, 4:28 PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Cary,
>
> I've done this, but I always just eyeball it by holding the drill bit next
> to the screw.  If you're going to use a reference table, I'd use the size
> suggested for hardwood.
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2023-11-07, at 13:57:25 EST, Cary Tolbert wrote:
> >
> > This seems like a good thread to tie into, Tabernacle pulled out of the
> mast
> > step. Filled with epoxy and silica. My question is: what size hole do I
> drill
> > for a # 12 SS sheet metal Screw?  I have found info on hardwood, soft
> wood,
> > sheet metal but  I can't find anything for epoxy drilling. Thanks guys.
> I know
> > someone on the list has experience in this matter.
> >
> > Cary
> > S/V Whisper 86
> >
> >
>
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Tue Nov  7 21:46:52 2023
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2023 02:46:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Delaminating tiller handle
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1614954408.625815.1699411612053@mail.yahoo.com>

 Thanks to everyone for your insights,? ? Roger that sounds like exactly what I was looking for!? Someone else asked for clarification about the mixing ratio's, so I'll await you answer to them.? Can I assume the 209/105 combination (without the acetone) would also be suitable for fixing a pulled out tabernacle screw? That's another fix in my future and it looks like the smallest quantity they sell is a pint which is a bit more than the tiller handle requires.Thanks yet again for your expertise, you always offer excellent counsel.? ? Peter
    On Tuesday, November 7, 2023 at 11:03:11 AM EST, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:  
 
 Hi Peter,

At one point in my career at the Dow Chemical Co, I was chief engineer at a plant where we made C fiber insulation for the, then new, C-17 cargo plane.? As I recall, a 10%wt solution of epoxy in acetone was thin enough to spray with a conventional paint sprayer.? The thinned epoxy/acetone solution would flow by capillary action along the fibers and tended to gather at the fiber/fiber intersections.? Here, the acetone would evaporate.? When the epoxy kicked off, it bound the fibers together.? I would use the West System 209 extra slow hardener and 105 resin.? Mix up the resin/acetone & hardener/acetone separately and then mix them together.? At 75 degrees F, this will give you ~45 minutes of pot life and ~24 hours to fully cure.? This will be plenty of time for the acetone to evaporate and diffuse away.? Until the epoxy kicks off, the mixture will be thin enough to inject with a hypodermic syringe.? But, you could also just brush it over the crack and let it be drawn in by capillary action.? The thinned epoxy will also soak into the wood along the crack.? So, there will be very little squeeze out.? This will greatly strengthen the repair.? Once you have the crack filled, clamp the piece to force the crack faces together and clean up any squeeze out with a cloth damp with acetone.? You will end up with a solid epoxy/wood composite that will last so long, you?ll be able to pass it down to your grandchildren.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2023, at 10:16?AM, Mark Whipple <mark at whipplefamily.com> wrote:
> 
> ?I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
> syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in FL
> called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I recall.
> 
> I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the tiller
> on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
> mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
> clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used unthickened
> epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken it
> and put some of that in the gap as well.
> 
> There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
> filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
> looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of the
> tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.
> 
> Mark
> 
> Boston, MA
> 2000 R22 *When and If*
> 
>> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All,? My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you can
>> see light through a gap in the wood.? I want to glue it back together and
>> then revarnish it.? I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
>> getting glue into the gap.? I was thinking of trying to thin some glue and
>> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to force
>> it through such a tiny lumen.? Anyone know of a better approach?? Any word
>> glue that can be made pretty thin?
>> Thanks,? Peter
>> 
  

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Wed Nov  8 07:20:38 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2023 07:20:38 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Base Repairs: was Delaminating tiller handle
In-Reply-To: <1614954408.625815.1699411612053@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <1614954408.625815.1699411612053@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMNCWC85qFvOM2-YuTT2q8mQ+D0nuTJTFYzYUZm9UuO=Hg@mail.gmail.com>

Peter,

I have not read all of the responses to your mast base bracket questions.
Did the screws pull out because of water intrusion and rotted core? Or was
it the result of a mast lowering mistake which lifted the bracket and
pulled the screws out?
The screws pulling out is the desired fail point, which keeps a mistake,
like forgetting to disconnect the pop top from the mast before lowering,
from ripping the top of the cabin off.

But in either case, the screws should not be screwed into anything other
than the plywood core of the cabin top raised pad, if that's what you are
calling the tabernacle.
If a mistake while lowering the mast levered the screws out; and it were me
on my boat,  I'd fill the old holes with sealer or some thinkened epoxy and
drill new holes in the bracket to move the screws. If the core was wet
and/or rotted I'd replace the failed core and fix it by normal (West
System) methods and put the screws back in the original holes going into
only the wood, and sealed.
If you make a permanent epoxy repair, or heaven forbid, through bolted the
base bracket, next time the damage would or could be more extensive.

Todd T.

On Tue, Nov 7, 2023, 9:47 PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

>  Thanks to everyone for your insights,    Roger that sounds like exactly
> what I was looking for!  Someone else asked for clarification about the
> mixing ratio's, so I'll await you answer to them.  Can I assume the 209/105
> combination (without the acetone) would also be suitable for fixing a
> pulled out tabernacle screw? That's another fix in my future and it looks
> like the smallest quantity they sell is a pint which is a bit more than the
> tiller handle requires.Thanks yet again for your expertise, you always
> offer excellent counsel.    Peter
>     On Tuesday, November 7, 2023 at 11:03:11 AM EST, ROGER PIHLAJA <
> roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
>  Hi Peter,
>
> At one point in my career at the Dow Chemical Co, I was chief engineer at
> a plant where we made C fiber insulation for the, then new, C-17 cargo
> plane.  As I recall, a 10%wt solution of epoxy in acetone was thin enough
> to spray with a conventional paint sprayer.  The thinned epoxy/acetone
> solution would flow by capillary action along the fibers and tended to
> gather at the fiber/fiber intersections.  Here, the acetone would
> evaporate.  When the epoxy kicked off, it bound the fibers together.  I
> would use the West System 209 extra slow hardener and 105 resin.  Mix up
> the resin/acetone & hardener/acetone separately and then mix them
> together.  At 75 degrees F, this will give you ~45 minutes of pot life and
> ~24 hours to fully cure.  This will be plenty of time for the acetone to
> evaporate and diffuse away.  Until the epoxy kicks off, the mixture will be
> thin enough to inject with a hypodermic syringe.  But, you could also just
> brush it over the crack and let it be drawn in by capillary action.  The
> thinned epoxy will also soak into the wood along the crack.  So, there will
> be very little squeeze out.  This will greatly strengthen the repair.  Once
> you have the crack filled, clamp the piece to force the crack faces
> together and clean up any squeeze out with a cloth damp with acetone.  You
> will end up with a solid epoxy/wood composite that will last so long,
> you?ll be able to pass it down to your grandchildren.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Nov 7, 2023, at 10:16?AM, Mark Whipple <mark at whipplefamily.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
> > syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in FL
> > called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I recall.
> >
> > I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the tiller
> > on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
> > mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
> > clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used unthickened
> > epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken it
> > and put some of that in the gap as well.
> >
> > There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
> > filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
> > looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of the
> > tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > Boston, MA
> > 2000 R22 *When and If*
> >
> >> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi All,  My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you
> can
> >> see light through a gap in the wood.  I want to glue it back together
> and
> >> then revarnish it.  I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
> >> getting glue into the gap.  I was thinking of trying to thin some glue
> and
> >> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to
> force
> >> it through such a tiny lumen.  Anyone know of a better approach?  Any
> word
> >> glue that can be made pretty thin?
> >> Thanks,  Peter
> >>
>
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Nov  8 12:28:32 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2023 11:28:32 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Help
Message-ID: <CANbEFCv=h=D_mKK4yGMRN8jQ9-FmMJWJLCxy+21k2DXUTXQpbA@mail.gmail.com>

Good morning,

I am trying to peruse the archives and having trouble. If I click the
Archive and then log in, I am taken to a subscriber list instead of the
archive.

Thanks for your help,
Matt Wilson

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Nov  8 13:48:07 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2023 13:48:07 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Help
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCv=h=D_mKK4yGMRN8jQ9-FmMJWJLCxy+21k2DXUTXQpbA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCv=h=D_mKK4yGMRN8jQ9-FmMJWJLCxy+21k2DXUTXQpbA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003001da1274$1e2ef0b0$5a8cd210$@ebsmed.com>

Matt,

There are two basic methods to search the archives:

	1. Google site:rhodes22.org search-term
		Example (from a Google search page):
			Enter the following into the search bar:
				site:rhodes22.org rigging
			Returns a page of links and images that should be related to rigging
				(see the attached image at the bottom of email)
	2. From the Rhodes22 Owners site Email List/Search
		Example (from the website search):
			Enter the link: http://rhodes22.org/email-search.html
			Enter the search-term into the search bar (i.e. rigging)
			Click the magnifying glass on the right
			Ignore the sponsored results and scroll down to our results
				(see the attached images at the bottom of email)

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)


-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2023 12:29 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Help

Good morning,

I am trying to peruse the archives and having trouble. If I click the Archive and then log in, I am taken to a subscriber list instead of the archive.

Thanks for your help,
Matt Wilson
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Google Site Search Example.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 98253 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231108/8a6f7341/attachment.jpe>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Rhodes22.orgSearch.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 80989 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231108/8a6f7341/attachment-0001.jpe>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Rhodes22.orgSearchResults.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 114311 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231108/8a6f7341/attachment-0002.jpe>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Wed Nov  8 13:52:58 2023
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2023 10:52:58 -0800
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Help
Message-ID: <E1r0nfe-002Vpl-2S@s152.servername.online>

Matt, 

I'm not sure where you're clicking...

If you go to http://www.rhodes22.org , in the menu on the left had side click 'Email List', then in the drop-down list click 'Archives', that should take you directly to the Archive page, with the archives available broken down by month.  No log in is required.

--Peter

> On 2023-11-08, at 12:28:32 EST, Matt Wilson wrote:
>
> Good morning,
> 
> I am trying to peruse the archives and having trouble. If I click the Archive 
> and then log in, I am taken to a subscriber list instead of the archive. 
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> Matt Wilson
> 


From aseatanner at yahoo.com  Wed Nov  8 14:20:53 2023
From: aseatanner at yahoo.com (Arthur Tanner)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2023 19:20:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1976 Rhodes22 for sale -- cheap!
References: <54176450.1131885.1699471253394.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <54176450.1131885.1699471253394@mail.yahoo.com>

Re-send of a previous offer:I have a 1976 Rhodes 22 on a trailer in my driveway.? She has not been in the water for over 5 years due to the aging of her owner, but has been kept covered with tarps.? She needs some work to get her sea-worthy, but I believe that the hull and decks are structurally sound. I acquired the boat in 1990 and sailed her in the Chesapeake bay for many years.? I have always dry-sailed, that is, kept the boat on a trailer between launches.? As far as I know, she has never spent time in a slip.? While we were sailing her, I tried to keep her in good condition, and I believe that someone who appreciates a sailboat repair challenge could have her ready for the water fairly quickly.?? She comes with a Triad trailer and a 1992 Johnson 9.9 Hp long shaft motor, gently used.? She is currently located in Bowie, MD, about 15 miles from Annapolis.? I welcome private email inquiries!? 


|  | Virus-free.www.avast.com |


From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Wed Nov  8 15:00:34 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2023 15:00:34 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Help
In-Reply-To: <003001da1274$1e2ef0b0$5a8cd210$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <654be8e2.050a0220.5a7f6.7fa5@mx.google.com>

Mike,While we're talking administrative topics, it think it would be helpful to recommend to List subscribers to include they're first and last names, vessel name and year(s) and hailing port as you and many other do. Newer members aren't doing that and some don't even include their name!BTW, my name in the heading is listed by my email address. How do I change that to my name?Thanks in advance.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYMV VoyagerEx-Rhodes 22 (1989/2005)SV RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: "Michael D. Weisner" <mweisner at ebsmed.com> Date: 11/8/23  1:48 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Help Matt,There are two basic methods to search the archives:	1. Google site:rhodes22.org search-term		Example (from a Google search page):			Enter the following into the search bar:				site:rhodes22.org rigging			Returns a page of links and images that should be related to rigging				(see the attached image at the bottom of email)	2. From the Rhodes22 Owners site Email List/Search		Example (from the website search):			Enter the link: http://rhodes22.org/email-search.html			Enter the search-term into the search bar (i.e. rigging)			Click the magnifying glass on the right			Ignore the sponsored results and scroll down to our results				(see the attached images at the bottom of email)Mikes/v Wind Lass ('91)Nissequogue River, NYI?d rather be sailing :~)-----Original Message-----From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt WilsonSent: Wednesday, November 8, 2023 12:29 PMTo: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>Subject: [Rhodes22-list] HelpGood morning,I am trying to peruse the archives and having trouble. If I click the Archive and then log in, I am taken to a subscriber list instead of the archive.Thanks for your help,Matt Wilson-------------- next part --------------A non-text attachment was scrubbed...Name: Google Site Search Example.JPGType: image/jpegSize: 98253 bytesDesc: not availableURL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231108/8a6f7341/attachment.jpe>-------------- next part --------------A non-text attachment was scrubbed...Name: Rhodes22.orgSearch.JPGType: image/jpegSize: 80989 bytesDesc: not availableURL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231108/8a6f7341/attachment-0001.jpe>-------------- next part --------------A non-text attachment was scrubbed...Name: Rhodes22.orgSearchResults.JPGType: image/jpegSize: 114311 bytesDesc: not availableURL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231108/8a6f7341/attachment-0002.jpe>

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Nov  8 15:08:58 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2023 15:08:58 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1976 Rhodes22 for sale -- cheap!
In-Reply-To: <54176450.1131885.1699471253394@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <54176450.1131885.1699471253394.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <54176450.1131885.1699471253394@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003b01da127f$6a4f0100$3eed0300$@ebsmed.com>

Arthur,

You had a response on 11/02/23 from Laurie Denney. Were you able to respond to her?

If you want to sell a Rhodes 22 on the list, may I suggest that you attach some pictures and provide a ballpark price?

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)


-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Arthur Tanner via Rhodes22-list
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2023 2:21 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 1976 Rhodes22 for sale -- cheap!

Re-send of a previous offer:I have a 1976 Rhodes 22 on a trailer in my driveway.  She has not been in the water for over 5 years due to the aging of her owner, but has been kept covered with tarps.  She needs some work to get her sea-worthy, but I believe that the hull and decks are structurally sound. I acquired the boat in 1990 and sailed her in the Chesapeake bay for many years.  I have always dry-sailed, that is, kept the boat on a trailer between launches.  As far as I know, she has never spent time in a slip.  While we were sailing her, I tried to keep her in good condition, and I believe that someone who appreciates a sailboat repair challenge could have her ready for the water fairly quickly.   She comes with a Triad trailer and a 1992 Johnson 9.9 Hp long shaft motor, gently used.  She is currently located in Bowie, MD, about 15 miles from Annapolis.  I welcome private email inquiries!  


|  | Virus-free.www.avast.com |



From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Nov  8 15:15:43 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2023 15:15:43 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Help
In-Reply-To: <654be8e2.050a0220.5a7f6.7fa5@mx.google.com>
References: <003001da1274$1e2ef0b0$5a8cd210$@ebsmed.com>
 <654be8e2.050a0220.5a7f6.7fa5@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <003e01da1280$5afced10$10f6c730$@ebsmed.com>

OK, Joe (and everyone), here is the list Charter (http://rhodes22.org/email-charter.html) and Usage Guidelines (http://rhodes22.org/email-guide.html) from the website:

**** Charter ****

Welcome to the Rhodes 22 Owners' Group Mailing List. This list is open to everyone with an interest in the Rhodes 22 sailboat. It is an automated email distribution list where messages addressed to the list are copied to every list member's mailbox.

The list is maintained by rhodes22.org as a courtesy to Rhodes 22 sailboat fans worldwide. It is hoped that the list will promote discussion about the Rhodes 22 sailboat and provide members with a means of sharing their interests and experiences.

The Rhodes 22 Owners' Group Mailing List will be open to discussion of all subjects specifically referring to Rhodes 22 sailboats or, Rhodes sailors. The focus of this group includes, but is not limited to:

    Encouraging the understanding and discussion of Rhodes sailboats or Rhodes sailors, in the many ways people wish to define them.

    Acting as a source of information for Rhodes sailboats or Rhodes sailors worldwide and for people planning to buy/sell/repair/learn about Rhodes sailboats or Rhodes 22 sailors.

    Providing a forum for the development and promotion of Rhodes 22 sailboats or Rhodes 22 sailors' culture, history, traditions and economy.

    Any other subject that might be found at a sailor's bar or the clubhouse bar, including, Rhodes sailboats or Rhodes sailors' travels, events, family, jokes, quotations, pets, etc.

    The level of discussion does not have to be fit for a child, but some good taste is expected.

    The discussion of politics is discouraged.

Posts to the group are expected to be considerate of other readers. Personal abuse, flames, and obscenities are not appreciated; but we are sailors...

To a certain extent, the interaction is about what you would expect in any informal social setting, for example, a bar. It is recommended that you get to know people first and introduce yourself (about the same social rules that you would use to meet any new group of people). There is a high level of chitchat on the list, and what you might think is insulting to a group or region might only be people kidding each other after knowing each other for years. As in any bar, the subjects of politics and religion can lead to heated augments and bar fights. These might be best avoided.

It is recognized that a group is only whoever posts to it, no more and no less. We can only talk about what people post about. You earn respect on the list by your postings and trying to help each other, you cannot demand it. Most sailing topics we have talked about at one time or another already, we chit chat in the mean time, waiting to answer questions or for a new subject/story. If you want to know something, please post it, the more detail the better. If someone is trying to help you please answer their reasonable questions. If you can help someone, again, post it. Try to repay the knowledge you may have gained.


**** Usage Guidelines ****

ACCOUNT MAINTENANCE: To subscribe, unsubscribe, change your delivery options, recover a lost password, temporarily disable/enable your account, maintain dual email addresses, etc., go to the list admin page.

POSTING: You must be subscribed to the list to post messages. Once you have subscribed, sending mail to rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org will distribute it to all the members of the mailing list.

ATTACHMENTS: You may include certain attachments to your messages. Most image files and plain text files will be accepted as well as PDF files. Attachments that are accepted by the email list software will be kept on our server. The attachments themselves will not be distributed to other list members. Instead, links to the attachments will be inserted into the distributed message at the very bottom of the message. Attachments that are not accepted by the email list software will simply be stripped out of the message before it is distributed.

Unfortunately, due to technical issues beyond our control, if you send email to the list from an Apple computer using the native email client, your attachments will probably be stripped out as well. As a work-around, you could use a third-party email client instead. The Spark email client is free and seems to work for sending attachments to the list

REPLYING: When replying to a post, you should make a point of replying at the top of the message. Also, it's a good practice to remove all but the most relevant quoted text in your reply. This keeps messages smaller, for easy reading, and makes archive searches more efficient because there is less duplicated material.

SUBJECT LINES: Subject lines are important, especially for keeping the archives useful. If you start a subject thread, please try to make the subject line as descriptive as you can. If you reply to a message in a way that changes the subject, please change the subject line accordingly.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of jpd9668
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2023 3:01 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Help

Mike,While we're talking administrative topics, it think it would be helpful to recommend to List subscribers to include they're first and last names, vessel name and year(s) and hailing port as you and many other do. Newer members aren't doing that and some don't even include their name!BTW, my name in the heading is listed by my email address. How do I change that to my name?Thanks in advance.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYMV VoyagerEx-Rhodes 22 (1989/2005)SV RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
>


From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Wed Nov  8 21:05:18 2023
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 02:05:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Base Repairs: was Delaminating tiller
 handle
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNCWC85qFvOM2-YuTT2q8mQ+D0nuTJTFYzYUZm9UuO=Hg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <1614954408.625815.1699411612053@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB-twMNCWC85qFvOM2-YuTT2q8mQ+D0nuTJTFYzYUZm9UuO=Hg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1683835686.1032779.1699495518563@mail.yahoo.com>

 Hi Todd,? ?Thanks for the response.? I had a screw pull out due to a mast raising mistake (1st time raising ie. a learning experience ....I've been having a bunch of learning experiences since I bought this boat).? I was under the impression that, more or less, the fix for a pulled screw was to drill out the threads and fill with thickened epoxy.? Some then tap threads (hard), some drill a pilot hole and use a wood screw (easier...and the approach I've been tentatively planning on pursuing), and I gather that some set the screw before the epoxy hardens, essentially glueing the screw in place.? ?My (limited) understanding is using the epoxy-drill-wood screw method allows the screw to pull out in case the mast levers the tabernacle.? I suppose I could alternatively epoxy a wood plug in a drilled hole and screw into that.? I know this has been discussed on the list before, at some point I'll search previous postings.
Peter
    On Wednesday, November 8, 2023 at 07:20:51 AM EST, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Peter,
I have not read all of the responses to your mast base bracket questions. Did the screws pull out because of water intrusion and rotted core? Or was it the result of a mast lowering mistake which lifted the bracket and pulled the screws out?The screws pulling out is the desired fail point, which keeps a mistake, like forgetting to disconnect the pop top from the mast before lowering, from ripping the top of the cabin off.
But in either?case, the screws should not be screwed into anything other than the plywood core of the cabin top raised pad, if that's what you are calling the tabernacle.If a mistake while lowering the mast levered the screws out; and it were me on my boat,? I'd fill the old holes with sealer or some thinkened epoxy and drill new holes in the bracket to move the screws. If the core was wet and/or rotted I'd replace the failed core and fix it by normal (West System) methods and put the screws back in the original holes going into only the wood, and sealed.If you make a permanent epoxy repair, or heaven forbid, through bolted the base bracket, next time the damage would or could be more extensive.
Todd T.
On Tue, Nov 7, 2023, 9:47 PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

?Thanks to everyone for your insights,? ? Roger that sounds like exactly what I was looking for!? Someone else asked for clarification about the mixing ratio's, so I'll await you answer to them.? Can I assume the 209/105 combination (without the acetone) would also be suitable for fixing a pulled out tabernacle screw? That's another fix in my future and it looks like the smallest quantity they sell is a pint which is a bit more than the tiller handle requires.Thanks yet again for your expertise, you always offer excellent counsel.? ? Peter
? ? On Tuesday, November 7, 2023 at 11:03:11 AM EST, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:? 

?Hi Peter,

At one point in my career at the Dow Chemical Co, I was chief engineer at a plant where we made C fiber insulation for the, then new, C-17 cargo plane.? As I recall, a 10%wt solution of epoxy in acetone was thin enough to spray with a conventional paint sprayer.? The thinned epoxy/acetone solution would flow by capillary action along the fibers and tended to gather at the fiber/fiber intersections.? Here, the acetone would evaporate.? When the epoxy kicked off, it bound the fibers together.? I would use the West System 209 extra slow hardener and 105 resin.? Mix up the resin/acetone & hardener/acetone separately and then mix them together.? At 75 degrees F, this will give you ~45 minutes of pot life and ~24 hours to fully cure.? This will be plenty of time for the acetone to evaporate and diffuse away.? Until the epoxy kicks off, the mixture will be thin enough to inject with a hypodermic syringe.? But, you could also just brush it over the crack and let it be drawn in by capillary action.? The thinned epoxy will also soak into the wood along the crack.? So, there will be very little squeeze out.? This will greatly strengthen the repair.? Once you have the crack filled, clamp the piece to force the crack faces together and clean up any squeeze out with a cloth damp with acetone.? You will end up with a solid epoxy/wood composite that will last so long, you?ll be able to pass it down to your grandchildren.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2023, at 10:16?AM, Mark Whipple <mark at whipplefamily.com> wrote:
> 
> ?I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
> syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in FL
> called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I recall.
> 
> I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the tiller
> on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
> mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
> clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used unthickened
> epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken it
> and put some of that in the gap as well.
> 
> There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
> filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
> looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of the
> tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.
> 
> Mark
> 
> Boston, MA
> 2000 R22 *When and If*
> 
>> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All,? My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you can
>> see light through a gap in the wood.? I want to glue it back together and
>> then revarnish it.? I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
>> getting glue into the gap.? I was thinking of trying to thin some glue and
>> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to force
>> it through such a tiny lumen.? Anyone know of a better approach?? Any word
>> glue that can be made pretty thin?
>> Thanks,? Peter
>> 


  

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 05:18:35 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 05:18:35 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Base Repairs: was Delaminating tiller
	handle
In-Reply-To: <1683835686.1032779.1699495518563@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <1614954408.625815.1699411612053@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB-twMNCWC85qFvOM2-YuTT2q8mQ+D0nuTJTFYzYUZm9UuO=Hg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1683835686.1032779.1699495518563@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMOH+d0UXgQO2M__VwTqd_K32FKw7uwqvyKO3rAchT5Ekg@mail.gmail.com>

From what I understand, the screws only fix the base bracket in place. The
forces exerted by the weight of the mast and rigging is a downward force.
They really don't hold the base down to the boat.
If you have another mishap, and the screws pull out after you've epoxied
them in, you'll have a much larger hole in the boat, possibly pulling the
top layer of fiberglass with the base, instead of the 7/32" holes you have
now.

Todd T

On Wed, Nov 8, 2023, 9:06 PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

>  Hi Todd,   Thanks for the response.  I had a screw pull out due to a mast
> raising mistake (1st time raising ie. a learning experience ....I've been
> having a bunch of learning experiences since I bought this boat).  I was
> under the impression that, more or less, the fix for a pulled screw was to
> drill out the threads and fill with thickened epoxy.  Some then tap threads
> (hard), some drill a pilot hole and use a wood screw (easier...and the
> approach I've been tentatively planning on pursuing), and I gather that
> some set the screw before the epoxy hardens, essentially glueing the screw
> in place.   My (limited) understanding is using the epoxy-drill-wood screw
> method allows the screw to pull out in case the mast levers the
> tabernacle.  I suppose I could alternatively epoxy a wood plug in a drilled
> hole and screw into that.  I know this has been discussed on the list
> before, at some point I'll search previous postings.
> Peter
>     On Wednesday, November 8, 2023 at 07:20:51 AM EST, Todd Tavares <
> tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>  Peter,
> I have not read all of the responses to your mast base bracket questions.
> Did the screws pull out because of water intrusion and rotted core? Or was
> it the result of a mast lowering mistake which lifted the bracket and
> pulled the screws out?The screws pulling out is the desired fail point,
> which keeps a mistake, like forgetting to disconnect the pop top from the
> mast before lowering, from ripping the top of the cabin off.
> But in either case, the screws should not be screwed into anything other
> than the plywood core of the cabin top raised pad, if that's what you are
> calling the tabernacle.If a mistake while lowering the mast levered the
> screws out; and it were me on my boat,  I'd fill the old holes with sealer
> or some thinkened epoxy and drill new holes in the bracket to move the
> screws. If the core was wet and/or rotted I'd replace the failed core and
> fix it by normal (West System) methods and put the screws back in the
> original holes going into only the wood, and sealed.If you make a permanent
> epoxy repair, or heaven forbid, through bolted the base bracket, next time
> the damage would or could be more extensive.
> Todd T.
> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023, 9:47 PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
>  Thanks to everyone for your insights,    Roger that sounds like exactly
> what I was looking for!  Someone else asked for clarification about the
> mixing ratio's, so I'll await you answer to them.  Can I assume the 209/105
> combination (without the acetone) would also be suitable for fixing a
> pulled out tabernacle screw? That's another fix in my future and it looks
> like the smallest quantity they sell is a pint which is a bit more than the
> tiller handle requires.Thanks yet again for your expertise, you always
> offer excellent counsel.    Peter
>     On Tuesday, November 7, 2023 at 11:03:11 AM EST, ROGER PIHLAJA <
> roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
>  Hi Peter,
>
> At one point in my career at the Dow Chemical Co, I was chief engineer at
> a plant where we made C fiber insulation for the, then new, C-17 cargo
> plane.  As I recall, a 10%wt solution of epoxy in acetone was thin enough
> to spray with a conventional paint sprayer.  The thinned epoxy/acetone
> solution would flow by capillary action along the fibers and tended to
> gather at the fiber/fiber intersections.  Here, the acetone would
> evaporate.  When the epoxy kicked off, it bound the fibers together.  I
> would use the West System 209 extra slow hardener and 105 resin.  Mix up
> the resin/acetone & hardener/acetone separately and then mix them
> together.  At 75 degrees F, this will give you ~45 minutes of pot life and
> ~24 hours to fully cure.  This will be plenty of time for the acetone to
> evaporate and diffuse away.  Until the epoxy kicks off, the mixture will be
> thin enough to inject with a hypodermic syringe.  But, you could also just
> brush it over the crack and let it be drawn in by capillary action.  The
> thinned epoxy will also soak into the wood along the crack.  So, there will
> be very little squeeze out.  This will greatly strengthen the repair.  Once
> you have the crack filled, clamp the piece to force the crack faces
> together and clean up any squeeze out with a cloth damp with acetone.  You
> will end up with a solid epoxy/wood composite that will last so long,
> you?ll be able to pass it down to your grandchildren.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Nov 7, 2023, at 10:16?AM, Mark Whipple <mark at whipplefamily.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
> > syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in FL
> > called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I recall.
> >
> > I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the tiller
> > on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
> > mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
> > clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used unthickened
> > epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken it
> > and put some of that in the gap as well.
> >
> > There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
> > filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
> > looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of the
> > tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > Boston, MA
> > 2000 R22 *When and If*
> >
> >> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> >> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi All,  My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you
> can
> >> see light through a gap in the wood.  I want to glue it back together
> and
> >> then revarnish it.  I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
> >> getting glue into the gap.  I was thinking of trying to thin some glue
> and
> >> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to
> force
> >> it through such a tiny lumen.  Anyone know of a better approach?  Any
> word
> >> glue that can be made pretty thin?
> >> Thanks,  Peter
> >>
>
>
>
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 11:30:37 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 10:30:37 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
Message-ID: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>

Hello everyone,

I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and made
some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is going
on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water out
by sealing up the deck around them?

Many thanks for your help,
Matt Wilson
Hornblower II
White Bear Lake, MN

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 11:45:33 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 10:45:33 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCt78=v8hRhsoG_iRMogr9c_L_4jcg6tS1_VgJj-_G9JSA@mail.gmail.com>

Not sure those links are good.
lets try this:

[image: image.png]
[image: image.png]
The other one looks about the same

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 10:30?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and made
> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is going
> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water out
> by sealing up the deck around them?
>
> Many thanks for your help,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
>
>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>
>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>
>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>
>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: image.png
Type: image/png
Size: 134817 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/aa70d164/attachment.png>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: image.png
Type: image/png
Size: 139128 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/aa70d164/attachment-0001.png>

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 12:03:17 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 12:03:17 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>

Matt,

There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an adequate
way.
The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet, rotted
or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core, re-glass the
cabin top, fair paint.
The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut the
chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it in
place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall and a
backing plate inside.

But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut away the
cabintop.

Todd T.

PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what is inside.

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and made
> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is going
> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water out
> by sealing up the deck around them?
>
> Many thanks for your help,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
>
>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>
>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>
>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>
>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 12:15:35 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 12:15:35 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMP1dgUyv3y29A6sEZ_2BnR=_aaqCCam=cjDxQZ0YysuqQ@mail.gmail.com>

Matt,

You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the repair,
replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.

This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.


Todd T

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Matt,
>
> There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> adequate way.
> The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet, rotted
> or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core, re-glass the
> cabin top, fair paint.
> The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut the
> chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it in
> place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall and a
> backing plate inside.
>
> But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut away the
> cabintop.
>
> Todd T.
>
> PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what is
> inside.
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
>> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and made
>> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is going
>> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
>> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water out
>> by sealing up the deck around them?
>>
>> Many thanks for your help,
>> Matt Wilson
>> Hornblower II
>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>
>>
>> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>>
>>
>> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>>
>>
>> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>>
>>
>> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
>>
>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: 20231109_121109.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 967576 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6e3ab441/attachment.jpg>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 12:38:52 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 11:38:52 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMP1dgUyv3y29A6sEZ_2BnR=_aaqCCam=cjDxQZ0YysuqQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMP1dgUyv3y29A6sEZ_2BnR=_aaqCCam=cjDxQZ0YysuqQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this pulls
apart?  ;)

Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck after
resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the plates
would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not sure
how much I want to get into this kind of project.

Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total newbie
to this kind of project.

Matt W

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Matt,
>
> You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the repair,
> replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
>
> This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
> chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
>
>
> Todd T
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Matt,
> >
> > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> > adequate way.
> > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet,
> rotted
> > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core, re-glass the
> > cabin top, fair paint.
> > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut the
> > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it in
> > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall and a
> > backing plate inside.
> >
> > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut away
> the
> > cabintop.
> >
> > Todd T.
> >
> > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what is
> > inside.
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >> Hello everyone,
> >>
> >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and
> made
> >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is
> going
> >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water
> out
> >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> >>
> >> Many thanks for your help,
> >> Matt Wilson
> >> Hornblower II
> >> White Bear Lake, MN
> >>
> >>
> >>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> >>
> >>
> >>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> >>
> >>
> >>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> >>
> >>
> >>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> >>
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: 20231109_121109.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 967576 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6e3ab441/attachment.jpg
> >
>

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 13:01:21 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 13:01:21 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMP1dgUyv3y29A6sEZ_2BnR=_aaqCCam=cjDxQZ0YysuqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMO+O90-_+-HD1vv1eSu0aMQ7UXhSejTeAQm1GkRPPBPAQ@mail.gmail.com>

Matt,
I don't know what part of the country you live in, but it's getting pretty
late in the year to do fiberglass and epoxy work here in Maryland.

I took a different tack fixing my chainplates.
The plywood core had been wet at some point but then dry for many years.
The core and thickened epoxy had separated and the plywood dry rotted and
became friable. The obvious sign of a problem for me was loose floppy
chainplates.
I cut access holes in the side cabin walls. Then cut the old chainplates
off with a 2" cut-off disk, making sure to cut before the bend.
I made reinforcement plates from ?" (?) thick oak, sealed with 2 coats of
epoxy, then epoxied them to the inner side of the outer cabin walls with
thickened epoxy.

I dry fit everything in place first, so that the chainplate bolts (?-20
machine screws) would do the clamping.

My boat is older, doesn't have the hatches, and I was concerned more with
making it stronger than worried how it looks.

In hindsight, I probably should have just the whole top off and replaced
all of the core wood, but just don't have the time, or patience.



Todd T.

Something like the attached sketches. They may not come out in order or
oriented right.


On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:39 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this pulls
> apart?  ;)
>
> Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck after
> resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the plates
> would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not sure
> how much I want to get into this kind of project.
>
> Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total newbie
> to this kind of project.
>
> Matt W
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Matt,
> >
> > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> repair,
> > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> >
> > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
> > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> >
> >
> > Todd T
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Matt,
> > >
> > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> > > adequate way.
> > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet,
> > rotted
> > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core, re-glass
> the
> > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut the
> > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it in
> > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall and a
> > > backing plate inside.
> > >
> > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut away
> > the
> > > cabintop.
> > >
> > > Todd T.
> > >
> > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what is
> > > inside.
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hello everyone,
> > >>
> > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and
> > made
> > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is
> > going
> > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water
> > out
> > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > >>
> > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > >> Matt Wilson
> > >> Hornblower II
> > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: 20231109_121109.jpg
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 967576 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6e3ab441/attachment.jpg
> > >
> >
>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: 20231109_122120.heic
Type: image/heic
Size: 1043929 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6f71eb21/attachment.bin>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: 20231109_122450.heic
Type: image/heic
Size: 1070366 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6f71eb21/attachment-0001.bin>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: 20231109_123015.heic
Type: image/heic
Size: 1174659 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6f71eb21/attachment-0002.bin>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 13:13:13 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 12:13:13 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMO+O90-_+-HD1vv1eSu0aMQ7UXhSejTeAQm1GkRPPBPAQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMP1dgUyv3y29A6sEZ_2BnR=_aaqCCam=cjDxQZ0YysuqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMO+O90-_+-HD1vv1eSu0aMQ7UXhSejTeAQm1GkRPPBPAQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCvFRxEHAfqJ6h9VmYVndx8DLEKX9h1Y4R0oRusjL0FF-g@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Todd.

The images didn?t come through for me.

I am MN so I?ll either get to it  in the spring or have my local shop do
something over winter.

The port side bracket is a bit loose.  The one in the picture I sent has no
play at all. Looks like that bolt that you can see from inside the cabin
must go all the way through. If it is solid thus far is there still a need
to fix besides sealing for moisture?

Matt

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 12:02 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Matt,
> I don't know what part of the country you live in, but it's getting pretty
> late in the year to do fiberglass and epoxy work here in Maryland.
>
> I took a different tack fixing my chainplates.
> The plywood core had been wet at some point but then dry for many years.
> The core and thickened epoxy had separated and the plywood dry rotted and
> became friable. The obvious sign of a problem for me was loose floppy
> chainplates.
> I cut access holes in the side cabin walls. Then cut the old chainplates
> off with a 2" cut-off disk, making sure to cut before the bend.
> I made reinforcement plates from ?" (?) thick oak, sealed with 2 coats of
> epoxy, then epoxied them to the inner side of the outer cabin walls with
> thickened epoxy.
>
> I dry fit everything in place first, so that the chainplate bolts (?-20
> machine screws) would do the clamping.
>
> My boat is older, doesn't have the hatches, and I was concerned more with
> making it stronger than worried how it looks.
>
> In hindsight, I probably should have just the whole top off and replaced
> all of the core wood, but just don't have the time, or patience.
>
>
>
> Todd T.
>
> Something like the attached sketches. They may not come out in order or
> oriented right.
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:39 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this
> pulls
> > apart?  ;)
> >
> > Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck after
> > resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the
> plates
> > would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not
> sure
> > how much I want to get into this kind of project.
> >
> > Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total newbie
> > to this kind of project.
> >
> > Matt W
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Matt,
> > >
> > > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> > repair,
> > > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> > >
> > > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
> > > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> > >
> > >
> > > Todd T
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Matt,
> > > >
> > > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> > > > adequate way.
> > > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet,
> > > rotted
> > > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core, re-glass
> > the
> > > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut the
> > > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it
> in
> > > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall and
> a
> > > > backing plate inside.
> > > >
> > > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut
> away
> > > the
> > > > cabintop.
> > > >
> > > > Todd T.
> > > >
> > > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what is
> > > > inside.
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> Hello everyone,
> > > >>
> > > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> > > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and
> > > made
> > > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is
> > > going
> > > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep
> water
> > > out
> > > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > > >>
> > > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > > >> Matt Wilson
> > > >> Hornblower II
> > > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: 20231109_121109.jpg
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 967576 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6e3ab441/attachment.jpg
> > > >
> > >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: 20231109_122120.heic
> Type: image/heic
> Size: 1043929 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6f71eb21/attachment.bin
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: 20231109_122450.heic
> Type: image/heic
> Size: 1070366 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6f71eb21/attachment-0001.bin
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: 20231109_123015.heic
> Type: image/heic
> Size: 1174659 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6f71eb21/attachment-0002.bin
> >
>

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 13:14:09 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 13:14:09 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMP1dgUyv3y29A6sEZ_2BnR=_aaqCCam=cjDxQZ0YysuqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMP4H7HuVi1f9-QmbdMNaPO76seXsDiDo2W00GbQqOUTcA@mail.gmail.com>

I should add, that the reason for dry fitting, drilling the holes first,
etc was so the installation of each could be done in one operation.
The first coat of epoxy I put on the reinforcing plates/boards was slightly
thinned with acetone attempting to get more penetration. When the first
coat was still green and not fully set, I added the second coat and also
wetted out the cabin wall panel. And finally I added the thickened epoxy,
reinforcing plate, and chainplate before the other epoxy had cured.

I did learn, that I had to use a lot more of the West System 406 thickener
to get the described peanut butter consistency, than I had figured.

So there are a few different ways to approach your particular repair. I'd
suggest pulling the hatch out first and then decide.

Good luck.

Todd T.

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:39 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this pulls
> apart?  ;)
>
> Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck after
> resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the plates
> would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not sure
> how much I want to get into this kind of project.
>
> Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total newbie
> to this kind of project.
>
> Matt W
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Matt,
> >
> > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> repair,
> > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> >
> > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
> > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> >
> >
> > Todd T
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Matt,
> > >
> > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> > > adequate way.
> > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet,
> > rotted
> > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core, re-glass
> the
> > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut the
> > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it in
> > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall and a
> > > backing plate inside.
> > >
> > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut away
> > the
> > > cabintop.
> > >
> > > Todd T.
> > >
> > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what is
> > > inside.
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hello everyone,
> > >>
> > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and
> > made
> > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is
> > going
> > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water
> > out
> > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > >>
> > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > >> Matt Wilson
> > >> Hornblower II
> > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: 20231109_121109.jpg
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 967576 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6e3ab441/attachment.jpg
> > >
> >
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 13:26:49 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 12:26:49 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMP4H7HuVi1f9-QmbdMNaPO76seXsDiDo2W00GbQqOUTcA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMP1dgUyv3y29A6sEZ_2BnR=_aaqCCam=cjDxQZ0YysuqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMP4H7HuVi1f9-QmbdMNaPO76seXsDiDo2W00GbQqOUTcA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCtMBk6O_fJe5h0DSE8Azn+O8VVge+dEGCt7KJhwg59ytQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Todd, would you mind trying to send those last 3 images another way?

Matt

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 12:14 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I should add, that the reason for dry fitting, drilling the holes first,
> etc was so the installation of each could be done in one operation.
> The first coat of epoxy I put on the reinforcing plates/boards was slightly
> thinned with acetone attempting to get more penetration. When the first
> coat was still green and not fully set, I added the second coat and also
> wetted out the cabin wall panel. And finally I added the thickened epoxy,
> reinforcing plate, and chainplate before the other epoxy had cured.
>
> I did learn, that I had to use a lot more of the West System 406 thickener
> to get the described peanut butter consistency, than I had figured.
>
> So there are a few different ways to approach your particular repair. I'd
> suggest pulling the hatch out first and then decide.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Todd T.
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:39 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this
> pulls
> > apart?  ;)
> >
> > Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck after
> > resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the
> plates
> > would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not
> sure
> > how much I want to get into this kind of project.
> >
> > Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total newbie
> > to this kind of project.
> >
> > Matt W
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Matt,
> > >
> > > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> > repair,
> > > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> > >
> > > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
> > > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> > >
> > >
> > > Todd T
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Matt,
> > > >
> > > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> > > > adequate way.
> > > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet,
> > > rotted
> > > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core, re-glass
> > the
> > > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut the
> > > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it
> in
> > > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall and
> a
> > > > backing plate inside.
> > > >
> > > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut
> away
> > > the
> > > > cabintop.
> > > >
> > > > Todd T.
> > > >
> > > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what is
> > > > inside.
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> Hello everyone,
> > > >>
> > > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> > > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and
> > > made
> > > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is
> > > going
> > > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep
> water
> > > out
> > > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > > >>
> > > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > > >> Matt Wilson
> > > >> Hornblower II
> > > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: 20231109_121109.jpg
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 967576 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6e3ab441/attachment.jpg
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Nov  9 13:44:44 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 18:44:44 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Base Repairs: was Delaminating tiller
	handle
In-Reply-To: <1683835686.1032779.1699495518563@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1098510346.343841.1699369213863.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1098510346.343841.1699369213863@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CA+WP5ARX-Ad5_ab8EZ44C6RMvsjuzSHEYgUwiCTkJzwQ2iJC0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668339370DA8FD380F000EA480A9A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <1614954408.625815.1699411612053@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB-twMNCWC85qFvOM2-YuTT2q8mQ+D0nuTJTFYzYUZm9UuO=Hg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1683835686.1032779.1699495518563@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB668313C5D695CDC760F98C4D80AFA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,

Others have given good advice re how to repair the mast tabernacle base.  If the wood under the mast tabernacle base is rotten; then, that must be repaired first.  The acetone diluted/slow cure epoxy I disclosed previously can be a part of that repair; but, there is more to such a repair.  I suggest you check the list archives for more details.  If all that happened is the wood screws pulled out; but, the wood is still sound; then, I would drill out the blown out holes until you get to sound wood.  Then, wet out the sides and bottom of the holes with unthickened epoxy.  After the epoxy kicks; but, before it fully cures, fill in the holes with thickened epoxy.  I like to use West System 406 colloidal silica thickening agent.  Mix the resin and hardener together first and get them well mixed.  Then add the thickening agent until you get a paste like consistency that can be forced into the holes with a putty knife.  The uncured, unthickened epoxy on the sides and bottom of the holes will bond with the thickened epoxy to give a solidly attached plug.

Mast stepping/unstepping is one of the most potentially hazardous operations we do.  (Holy Captain Obvious!)  If your boat didn't come with a manual, I suggest you sit down, write a checklist of the steps involved, and follow your procedure scrupulously.  I would also strongly consider getting the GBI mast stepping system.  It's an expensive option and adds several rigging/unrigging steps to an already lengthy process.  But, it makes an otherwise hazardous process MUCH safer.  The nice thing about the GBI system is that if something goes crooked when the mast is partially up or down, you can safely stop, attend to the issue, and then resume the process.  I've been using the system for years.  It's well worth the money, especially if your boat has the Inner mast furling option, which makes the mast even heavier vs the standard mast.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978
Sanford, MI

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2023 9:05 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>; Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Mast Base Repairs: was Delaminating tiller handle

Hi Todd,   Thanks for the response.  I had a screw pull out due to a mast raising mistake (1st time raising ie. a learning experience ....I've been having a bunch of learning experiences since I bought this boat).  I was under the impression that, more or less, the fix for a pulled screw was to drill out the threads and fill with thickened epoxy.  Some then tap threads (hard), some drill a pilot hole and use a wood screw (easier...and the approach I've been tentatively planning on pursuing), and I gather that some set the screw before the epoxy hardens, essentially glueing the screw in place.   My (limited) understanding is using the epoxy-drill-wood screw method allows the screw to pull out in case the mast levers the tabernacle.  I suppose I could alternatively epoxy a wood plug in a drilled hole and screw into that.  I know this has been discussed on the list before, at some point I'll search previous postings.
Peter
    On Wednesday, November 8, 2023 at 07:20:51 AM EST, Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

 Peter,
I have not read all of the responses to your mast base bracket questions. Did the screws pull out because of water intrusion and rotted core? Or was it the result of a mast lowering mistake which lifted the bracket and pulled the screws out?The screws pulling out is the desired fail point, which keeps a mistake, like forgetting to disconnect the pop top from the mast before lowering, from ripping the top of the cabin off.
But in either case, the screws should not be screwed into anything other than the plywood core of the cabin top raised pad, if that's what you are calling the tabernacle.If a mistake while lowering the mast levered the screws out; and it were me on my boat,  I'd fill the old holes with sealer or some thinkened epoxy and drill new holes in the bracket to move the screws. If the core was wet and/or rotted I'd replace the failed core and fix it by normal (West System) methods and put the screws back in the original holes going into only the wood, and sealed.If you make a permanent epoxy repair, or heaven forbid, through bolted the base bracket, next time the damage would or could be more extensive.
Todd T.
On Tue, Nov 7, 2023, 9:47 PM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

 Thanks to everyone for your insights,    Roger that sounds like exactly what I was looking for!  Someone else asked for clarification about the mixing ratio's, so I'll await you answer to them.  Can I assume the 209/105 combination (without the acetone) would also be suitable for fixing a pulled out tabernacle screw? That's another fix in my future and it looks like the smallest quantity they sell is a pint which is a bit more than the tiller handle requires.Thanks yet again for your expertise, you always offer excellent counsel.    Peter
    On Tuesday, November 7, 2023 at 11:03:11 AM EST, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

 Hi Peter,

At one point in my career at the Dow Chemical Co, I was chief engineer at a plant where we made C fiber insulation for the, then new, C-17 cargo plane.  As I recall, a 10%wt solution of epoxy in acetone was thin enough to spray with a conventional paint sprayer.  The thinned epoxy/acetone solution would flow by capillary action along the fibers and tended to gather at the fiber/fiber intersections.  Here, the acetone would evaporate.  When the epoxy kicked off, it bound the fibers together.  I would use the West System 209 extra slow hardener and 105 resin.  Mix up the resin/acetone & hardener/acetone separately and then mix them together.  At 75 degrees F, this will give you ~45 minutes of pot life and ~24 hours to fully cure.  This will be plenty of time for the acetone to evaporate and diffuse away.  Until the epoxy kicks off, the mixture will be thin enough to inject with a hypodermic syringe.  But, you could also just brush it over the crack and let it be drawn in by capillary action.  The thinned epoxy will also soak into the wood along the crack.  So, there will be very little squeeze out.  This will greatly strengthen the repair.  Once you have the crack filled, clamp the piece to force the crack faces together and clean up any squeeze out with a cloth damp with acetone.  You will end up with a solid epoxy/wood composite that will last so long, you?ll be able to pass it down to your grandchildren.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2023, at 10:16?AM, Mark Whipple <mark at whipplefamily.com> wrote:
>
> ?I just repaired a delaminated tiller I got from Stan. I used epoxy and
> syringes made for use with epoxy. The epoxy I use is from a company in FL
> called RAKA and is pretty low viscosity - thinner than West as I recall.
>
> I laid down some wax paper (epoxy doesn't stick to it) and put the tiller
> on its side - after digging out as much of the gaps as possible. After
> mixing the epoxy I used the syringe to direct the epoxy into the gap. I
> clamped the tiller to close the gap. I think I probably used unthickened
> epoxy first to coat the surfaces and then added some silica to thicken it
> and put some of that in the gap as well.
>
> There were a number of gaps in this tiller and I also drilled out and
> filled several holes, so it took a few days to get it all done, but it
> looks pretty good now. I may drive some screws in from the bottom of the
> tiller to further reinforce where the cracks were.
>
> Mark
>
> Boston, MA
> 2000 R22 *When and If*
>
>> On Tue, Nov 7, 2023 at 10:00?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,  My tiller handle has some delamination to the point that you can
>> see light through a gap in the wood.  I want to glue it back together and
>> then revarnish it.  I'm wondering if anyone has any good techniques for
>> getting glue into the gap.  I was thinking of trying to thin some glue and
>> injecting in with a small needle, but it needs to be pretty thin to force
>> it through such a tiny lumen.  Anyone know of a better approach?  Any word
>> glue that can be made pretty thin?
>> Thanks,  Peter
>>




From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Nov  9 13:59:39 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 18:59:39 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB66839244392B3B2C974EDFB680AFA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Matt,

I'm not able to open your attachments.  But, I had issues with my lower sidestays back in 2010.   I installed inspection ports and thru bolted the chainplates to the outer doghouse wall using SS fender washers as backing plates.  The inspection ports were off the shelf, white plastic Beckson, snap-in inspection ports installed inside the cabin.  A hole saw makes quick work making the holes thru the cabin wall.  The entire project took a Saturday afternoon to accomplish.  Now, I can inspect my lower sidestay chainplates whenever I wish.  It was a pretty easy project.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978
Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 11:30 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues

Hello everyone,

I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and made
some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is going
on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water out
by sealing up the deck around them?

Many thanks for your help,
Matt Wilson
Hornblower II
White Bear Lake, MN

https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2Fmail%2Fu%2F0%3Fui%3D2%26ik%3D67ba79a2ab%26attid%3D0.1%26permmsgid%3Dmsg-f%3A1782103858061391360%26th%3D18bb4e04549a3600%26view%3Datt%26disp%3Dsafe&data=05%7C01%7C%7C0bd3324395c14758fb7708dbe1413cce%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638351442542254834%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=k9vfAoUnNsGdG2RGTBsBE6Cp4DczNtZxLlc5QvHD8pc%3D&reserved=0<https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe>

https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2Fmail%2Fu%2F0%3Fui%3D2%26ik%3D67ba79a2ab%26attid%3D0.3%26permmsgid%3Dmsg-f%3A1782103858061391360%26th%3D18bb4e04549a3600%26view%3Datt%26disp%3Dsafe&data=05%7C01%7C%7C0bd3324395c14758fb7708dbe1413cce%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638351442542411100%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=1NgBsE%2FK4p9%2FTyZRS9skwcTjRvalEW9fN3%2B2JYQogfU%3D&reserved=0<https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe>

https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2Fmail%2Fu%2F0%3Fui%3D2%26ik%3D67ba79a2ab%26attid%3D0.5%26permmsgid%3Dmsg-f%3A1782103858061391360%26th%3D18bb4e04549a3600%26view%3Datt%26disp%3Dsafe&data=05%7C01%7C%7C0bd3324395c14758fb7708dbe1413cce%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638351442542411100%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=hTNcNhnNuoG2HPS4rqLKPM%2Bx796q1FcgO2Sn7diIyLQ%3D&reserved=0<https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe>

https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2Fmail%2Fu%2F0%3Fui%3D2%26ik%3D67ba79a2ab%26attid%3D0.7%26permmsgid%3Dmsg-f%3A1782103858061391360%26th%3D18bb4e04549a3600%26view%3Datt%26disp%3Dsafe&data=05%7C01%7C%7C0bd3324395c14758fb7708dbe1413cce%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638351442542411100%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=nmxm2fzf91h%2Fw3%2F10ZFC9kA5g2NVjAzk7X1R8Phhzrk%3D&reserved=0<https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 14:05:54 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 13:05:54 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB66839244392B3B2C974EDFB680AFA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66839244392B3B2C974EDFB680AFA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCsUJ9AXEyGz0NRWTBCgTZ--t2iZrriKz2NDQe6uxpP6-g@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you Roger, I emailed you two pictures directly. If you don?t mind
looking at those and seeing if that changes your opinion.
Matt

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 12:59 PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Matt,
>
> I'm not able to open your attachments.  But, I had issues with my lower
> sidestays back in 2010.   I installed inspection ports and thru bolted the
> chainplates to the outer doghouse wall using SS fender washers as backing
> plates.  The inspection ports were off the shelf, white plastic Beckson,
> snap-in inspection ports installed inside the cabin.  A hole saw makes
> quick work making the holes thru the cabin wall.  The entire project took a
> Saturday afternoon to accomplish.  Now, I can inspect my lower sidestay
> chainplates whenever I wish.  It was a pretty easy project.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978
> Sanford, MI
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 11:30 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and made
> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is going
> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water out
> by sealing up the deck around them?
>
> Many thanks for your help,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
>
>
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2Fmail%2Fu%2F0%3Fui%3D2%26ik%3D67ba79a2ab%26attid%3D0.1%26permmsgid%3Dmsg-f%3A1782103858061391360%26th%3D18bb4e04549a3600%26view%3Datt%26disp%3Dsafe&data=05%7C01%7C%7C0bd3324395c14758fb7708dbe1413cce%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638351442542254834%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=k9vfAoUnNsGdG2RGTBsBE6Cp4DczNtZxLlc5QvHD8pc%3D&reserved=0
> <
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> >
>
>
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2Fmail%2Fu%2F0%3Fui%3D2%26ik%3D67ba79a2ab%26attid%3D0.3%26permmsgid%3Dmsg-f%3A1782103858061391360%26th%3D18bb4e04549a3600%26view%3Datt%26disp%3Dsafe&data=05%7C01%7C%7C0bd3324395c14758fb7708dbe1413cce%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638351442542411100%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=1NgBsE%2FK4p9%2FTyZRS9skwcTjRvalEW9fN3%2B2JYQogfU%3D&reserved=0
> <
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> >
>
>
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2Fmail%2Fu%2F0%3Fui%3D2%26ik%3D67ba79a2ab%26attid%3D0.5%26permmsgid%3Dmsg-f%3A1782103858061391360%26th%3D18bb4e04549a3600%26view%3Datt%26disp%3Dsafe&data=05%7C01%7C%7C0bd3324395c14758fb7708dbe1413cce%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638351442542411100%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=hTNcNhnNuoG2HPS4rqLKPM%2Bx796q1FcgO2Sn7diIyLQ%3D&reserved=0
> <
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> >
>
>
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2Fmail%2Fu%2F0%3Fui%3D2%26ik%3D67ba79a2ab%26attid%3D0.7%26permmsgid%3Dmsg-f%3A1782103858061391360%26th%3D18bb4e04549a3600%26view%3Datt%26disp%3Dsafe&data=05%7C01%7C%7C0bd3324395c14758fb7708dbe1413cce%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638351442542411100%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=nmxm2fzf91h%2Fw3%2F10ZFC9kA5g2NVjAzk7X1R8Phhzrk%3D&reserved=0
> <
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> >
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 14:20:21 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 13:20:21 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working
Message-ID: <CANbEFCvKOTTr7fwMN9qoKUVmBZH-3Bimzti3WCOZc_08YD0Y2A@mail.gmail.com>

Hello everyone,

I'm sorry to reach out again with another project.  Can you tell I have the
week off and am trying tio get an idea of how to fix a few things?

At the beginning of the season my portside running light suddenly stopped
working.  Now that I have been able to check it, continuity is broken.  I
have traced it from the box to under the settee but not sure what to do
now.

Is there a likely point that tends to fail?

Is there a schematic of that system?

Is it possible to pull the light fixture out, check the connection and or
fish a new wire?

I am grateful for you veterans on this list willing to answer basic
questions...thanks for your patience,
Matt Wilson
Hornblower II
White Bear Lake, MN

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Thu Nov  9 15:01:08 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 15:01:08 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCvKOTTr7fwMN9qoKUVmBZH-3Bimzti3WCOZc_08YD0Y2A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCvKOTTr7fwMN9qoKUVmBZH-3Bimzti3WCOZc_08YD0Y2A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003d01da1347$7c14e1c0$743ea540$@ebsmed.com>

Hi Matt,

For your convenience, the wiring diagrams created by Chris Cowie many years ago have been integrated into a single document (Rhodes 22 - electrical wiring diagram.PDF), which may be viewed at:
http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20170701/d8670037/attachment.pdf

As always, no two Rhodes 22 crafts are the same. At least this may provide a starting point for you.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 2:20 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working

Hello everyone,

I'm sorry to reach out again with another project.  Can you tell I have the week off and am trying tio get an idea of how to fix a few things?

At the beginning of the season my portside running light suddenly stopped working.  Now that I have been able to check it, continuity is broken.  I have traced it from the box to under the settee but not sure what to do now.

Is there a likely point that tends to fail?

Is there a schematic of that system?

Is it possible to pull the light fixture out, check the connection and or fish a new wire?

I am grateful for you veterans on this list willing to answer basic questions...thanks for your patience, Matt Wilson Hornblower II White Bear Lake, MN


From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 15:14:24 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 14:14:24 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working
In-Reply-To: <003d01da1347$7c14e1c0$743ea540$@ebsmed.com>
References: <CANbEFCvKOTTr7fwMN9qoKUVmBZH-3Bimzti3WCOZc_08YD0Y2A@mail.gmail.com>
 <003d01da1347$7c14e1c0$743ea540$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCtSDKoPYoAYLMgN-vDb3Aqy3-T10_sEWb9f8v4HMuN1vg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Michael!  Very helpful. Can anyone speak to how hard it is to pull
the running light out with out breaking it?

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 2:01 PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> Hi Matt,
>
> For your convenience, the wiring diagrams created by Chris Cowie many
> years ago have been integrated into a single document (Rhodes 22 -
> electrical wiring diagram.PDF), which may be viewed at:
>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20170701/d8670037/attachment.pdf
>
> As always, no two Rhodes 22 crafts are the same. At least this may provide
> a starting point for you.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Matt Wilson
> Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 2:20 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm sorry to reach out again with another project.  Can you tell I have
> the week off and am trying tio get an idea of how to fix a few things?
>
> At the beginning of the season my portside running light suddenly stopped
> working.  Now that I have been able to check it, continuity is broken.  I
> have traced it from the box to under the settee but not sure what to do now.
>
> Is there a likely point that tends to fail?
>
> Is there a schematic of that system?
>
> Is it possible to pull the light fixture out, check the connection and or
> fish a new wire?
>
> I am grateful for you veterans on this list willing to answer basic
> questions...thanks for your patience, Matt Wilson Hornblower II White Bear
> Lake, MN
>
>

From tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com  Thu Nov  9 17:18:13 2023
From: tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com (Tom Van Heule)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 16:18:13 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Big boat.
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiU3-eexjfCu2uu4SwEXF303i_OAWTVVSbAjy+MpQeaOjQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <B321AA9B-FB7F-444A-9F55-1EB6DC2AF5E5.ref@aol.com>
 <B321AA9B-FB7F-444A-9F55-1EB6DC2AF5E5@aol.com>
 <CACSd1jKiVGaTZEYMb-s_4c=dp67Uyq6y0gOwJjiC0mNTdzwLgg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiU3-eexjfCu2uu4SwEXF303i_OAWTVVSbAjy+MpQeaOjQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEqJHY5eC-WCWXY+YPY1B6i8_MmBwNSZY4DYYpR89AM300uJCg@mail.gmail.com>

My repressed thoughts Everytime I am tailgaited, unless family is in the
car!

Hope everyone has had a great season!
Stay safe out there,


On Mon, Nov 6, 2023, 9:03 PM Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Remember you are under sail and have right away and you have fabulous
> insurance. Show those scurvy rats who is in charge. Arrgh.
> Chris G
> XENOS
>
> On Mon, Nov 6, 2023 at 8:41 AM Michael Corley <michael.4591 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >  An autumn afternoon sail in Hampton Roads where tonnage matters!
> >
> > Mike
> > s/v Ranger
> > 99 Rhodes
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: IMG_4018.jpg
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 97613 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231106/c23e061c/attachment.jpg
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: IMG_4019.jpg
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 110325 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231106/c23e061c/attachment-0001.jpg
> > >
> >
>

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 21:30:25 2023
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 21:30:25 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMP1dgUyv3y29A6sEZ_2BnR=_aaqCCam=cjDxQZ0YysuqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT5PVOAgb2Qws47ofjuZ=b9nxmVkHwz=MLqy3XPAM1KPNg@mail.gmail.com>

I had to replace the inner chain plates on my 76 R22 - or at least I
thought I had to. Mine were loose and that worried me. As the chainplate
was just a stainless steel tang that went through the deck I really could
not tell what was holding it or how it might be secured. So I went in from
the deck side with a grinter and removed everything down to the cabin liner.
After grinding out the deck and core I realized that the chainplate was
only attached to the underside core of the deck with a single 1/2" screw
which, of course, was completely loose.. The core itself seemed dry and
solid.

My advice, without the benefit  of being able to open your pictures, is to
go slow. I have attached a picture of the chain plate after removal so you
can see what you are dealing with. Access to the chainplate is much less
destructive if you reach it through the inner liner rather than from above.
By removing small sections of the liner you should be able to find the
screw and at the same time determine the condition of the core. If the core
is good, you can fasten the chainplate more securely and patch the liner
and be done with it. I didn't do that . The second picture shows what the
deck looked like after I ground out the old chainplate.

I decided that I didn't want to replace the chainplate as it was originally
installed. It seemed to me like a system that would inevitably loosen and
probably leak. I filled the cavity I created in the deck with an epoxy mix
and then faired and repaired the deck. Doing so created a sizable area of
solid epoxy mix through which I installed a ring bolt with shoulders - I
can't remember what it was called but attach a picture. I made large
washers from composite decking by using a hole saw.The picture shows the
composite washer on both sides of the deck but in the end I didn't need the
upper one. In this way the bolt was attached in a straight line with the
shroud. The bolt went through the solid epoxy fill and was sealed with
butyl tape. It seems very secure to me and has no wiggle.

I was intending originally to attach new chainplates to the cabin sides but
decided to replace the ports with a single piece of acrylic so there was no
place to put the chainplates. In the meantime I inserted a new
plywood/epoxy core between the outer skin and liner along the sides of the
cabin to provide for increased strength for the chainplates. I now know
that wasn't necessary but it can't hurt in my case given that I
dramatically increased the size of the port openings. I am telling you all
this so you won't be too confused by the pictures

So, if you want to replace the chainplates, you might want to consider this
use of shoulder bolts once you know the condition of the deck core.



Graham Stewart
Agile 76


On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 12:39?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this pulls
> apart?  ;)
>
> Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck after
> resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the plates
> would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not sure
> how much I want to get into this kind of project.
>
> Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total newbie
> to this kind of project.
>
> Matt W
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Matt,
> >
> > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> repair,
> > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> >
> > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
> > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> >
> >
> > Todd T
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Matt,
> > >
> > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> > > adequate way.
> > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet,
> > rotted
> > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core, re-glass
> the
> > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut the
> > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it in
> > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall and a
> > > backing plate inside.
> > >
> > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut away
> > the
> > > cabintop.
> > >
> > > Todd T.
> > >
> > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what is
> > > inside.
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >> Hello everyone,
> > >>
> > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and
> > made
> > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is
> > going
> > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep water
> > out
> > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > >>
> > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > >> Matt Wilson
> > >> Hornblower II
> > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > >>
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: 20231109_121109.jpg
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 967576 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6e3ab441/attachment.jpg
> > >
> >
>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Chainplate.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 89771 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment.jpe>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Chainplates removed 2012.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 87559 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0001.jpe>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Lower chainplates with composite spacers.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 591134 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment.jpg>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Filling lower shroud holes.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 69382 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0002.jpe>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Filling cabin sides with plywood (2).JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 187831 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0003.jpe>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Thu Nov  9 22:53:46 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2023 21:53:46 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT5PVOAgb2Qws47ofjuZ=b9nxmVkHwz=MLqy3XPAM1KPNg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMP1dgUyv3y29A6sEZ_2BnR=_aaqCCam=cjDxQZ0YysuqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT5PVOAgb2Qws47ofjuZ=b9nxmVkHwz=MLqy3XPAM1KPNg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCt8Rt14-fzFmJ2Err+MG3gSVJGjFDqdX9E00KUdOSthow@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you Graham

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 8:31 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:

> I had to replace the inner chain plates on my 76 R22 - or at least I
> thought I had to. Mine were loose and that worried me. As the chainplate
> was just a stainless steel tang that went through the deck I really could
> not tell what was holding it or how it might be secured. So I went in from
> the deck side with a grinter and removed everything down to the cabin
> liner.
> After grinding out the deck and core I realized that the chainplate was
> only attached to the underside core of the deck with a single 1/2" screw
> which, of course, was completely loose.. The core itself seemed dry and
> solid.
>
> My advice, without the benefit  of being able to open your pictures, is to
> go slow. I have attached a picture of the chain plate after removal so you
> can see what you are dealing with. Access to the chainplate is much less
> destructive if you reach it through the inner liner rather than from above.
> By removing small sections of the liner you should be able to find the
> screw and at the same time determine the condition of the core. If the core
> is good, you can fasten the chainplate more securely and patch the liner
> and be done with it. I didn't do that . The second picture shows what the
> deck looked like after I ground out the old chainplate.
>
> I decided that I didn't want to replace the chainplate as it was originally
> installed. It seemed to me like a system that would inevitably loosen and
> probably leak. I filled the cavity I created in the deck with an epoxy mix
> and then faired and repaired the deck. Doing so created a sizable area of
> solid epoxy mix through which I installed a ring bolt with shoulders - I
> can't remember what it was called but attach a picture. I made large
> washers from composite decking by using a hole saw.The picture shows the
> composite washer on both sides of the deck but in the end I didn't need the
> upper one. In this way the bolt was attached in a straight line with the
> shroud. The bolt went through the solid epoxy fill and was sealed with
> butyl tape. It seems very secure to me and has no wiggle.
>
> I was intending originally to attach new chainplates to the cabin sides but
> decided to replace the ports with a single piece of acrylic so there was no
> place to put the chainplates. In the meantime I inserted a new
> plywood/epoxy core between the outer skin and liner along the sides of the
> cabin to provide for increased strength for the chainplates. I now know
> that wasn't necessary but it can't hurt in my case given that I
> dramatically increased the size of the port openings. I am telling you all
> this so you won't be too confused by the pictures
>
> So, if you want to replace the chainplates, you might want to consider this
> use of shoulder bolts once you know the condition of the deck core.
>
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile 76
>
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 12:39?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this
> pulls
> > apart?  ;)
> >
> > Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck after
> > resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the
> plates
> > would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not
> sure
> > how much I want to get into this kind of project.
> >
> > Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total newbie
> > to this kind of project.
> >
> > Matt W
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Matt,
> > >
> > > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> > repair,
> > > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> > >
> > > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
> > > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> > >
> > >
> > > Todd T
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Matt,
> > > >
> > > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> > > > adequate way.
> > > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet,
> > > rotted
> > > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core, re-glass
> > the
> > > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut the
> > > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it
> in
> > > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall and
> a
> > > > backing plate inside.
> > > >
> > > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut
> away
> > > the
> > > > cabintop.
> > > >
> > > > Todd T.
> > > >
> > > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what is
> > > > inside.
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> Hello everyone,
> > > >>
> > > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward inner
> > > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past and
> > > made
> > > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what is
> > > going
> > > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep
> water
> > > out
> > > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > > >>
> > > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > > >> Matt Wilson
> > > >> Hornblower II
> > > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: 20231109_121109.jpg
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 967576 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6e3ab441/attachment.jpg
> > > >
> > >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Chainplate.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 89771 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment.jpe
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Chainplates removed 2012.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 87559 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0001.jpe
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Lower chainplates with composite spacers.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 591134 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment.jpg
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Filling lower shroud holes.JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 69382 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0002.jpe
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Filling cabin sides with plywood (2).JPG
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 187831 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0003.jpe
> >
>

From sea20 at verizon.net  Fri Nov 10 06:32:45 2023
From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews)
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2023 06:32:45 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCtSDKoPYoAYLMgN-vDb3Aqy3-T10_sEWb9f8v4HMuN1vg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCtSDKoPYoAYLMgN-vDb3Aqy3-T10_sEWb9f8v4HMuN1vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <58E8CD8A-03AA-4758-84FA-6212E466C9A2@verizon.net>

Thanks Mike! I can use that also.
Scott A.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 9, 2023, at 3:14 PM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks Michael!  Very helpful. Can anyone speak to how hard it is to pull
> the running light out with out breaking it?
> 
>> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 2:01 PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Matt,
>> 
>> For your convenience, the wiring diagrams created by Chris Cowie many
>> years ago have been integrated into a single document (Rhodes 22 -
>> electrical wiring diagram.PDF), which may be viewed at:
>> 
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20170701/d8670037/attachment.pdf
>> 
>> As always, no two Rhodes 22 crafts are the same. At least this may provide
>> a starting point for you.
>> 
>> Mike
>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>> Nissequogue River, NY
>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>> Matt Wilson
>> Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 2:20 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working
>> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I'm sorry to reach out again with another project.  Can you tell I have
>> the week off and am trying tio get an idea of how to fix a few things?
>> 
>> At the beginning of the season my portside running light suddenly stopped
>> working.  Now that I have been able to check it, continuity is broken.  I
>> have traced it from the box to under the settee but not sure what to do now.
>> 
>> Is there a likely point that tends to fail?
>> 
>> Is there a schematic of that system?
>> 
>> Is it possible to pull the light fixture out, check the connection and or
>> fish a new wire?
>> 
>> I am grateful for you veterans on this list willing to answer basic
>> questions...thanks for your patience, Matt Wilson Hornblower II White Bear
>> Lake, MN
>> 
>> 


From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 10 10:22:52 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2023 10:22:52 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCt8Rt14-fzFmJ2Err+MG3gSVJGjFDqdX9E00KUdOSthow@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMP1dgUyv3y29A6sEZ_2BnR=_aaqCCam=cjDxQZ0YysuqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT5PVOAgb2Qws47ofjuZ=b9nxmVkHwz=MLqy3XPAM1KPNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCt8Rt14-fzFmJ2Err+MG3gSVJGjFDqdX9E00KUdOSthow@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMNKHZoWJaayDRf_x9UhSTiiWZt0_+mPp=Mme5Ls8GXk1A@mail.gmail.com>

I'm surprised that Slim (Steve A.) hasn't weighed in on the subject yet. He
consulted with Stan when his lower chainplates were torn completely out of
the cabin top. My repair was similar to the one Stan suggested to Steve.

I will try to attach the pics he sent me last year.

While Steve had the repairs done at a local boatyard  and did not know what
material they use for the backing block, I used oak and thickened epoxy as
the adhesive. I also used a longer tang with three holes instead of two.

INTERESTING NOTE THOUGH: General boats often makes the having pieces of
standing rigging is bullet proof. But in the case of Steve's accident, the
forestay broke and I and the whole rig came down.

Todd T.

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:00 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thank you Graham
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 8:31 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I had to replace the inner chain plates on my 76 R22 - or at least I
> > thought I had to. Mine were loose and that worried me. As the chainplate
> > was just a stainless steel tang that went through the deck I really could
> > not tell what was holding it or how it might be secured. So I went in
> from
> > the deck side with a grinter and removed everything down to the cabin
> > liner.
> > After grinding out the deck and core I realized that the chainplate was
> > only attached to the underside core of the deck with a single 1/2" screw
> > which, of course, was completely loose.. The core itself seemed dry and
> > solid.
> >
> > My advice, without the benefit  of being able to open your pictures, is
> to
> > go slow. I have attached a picture of the chain plate after removal so
> you
> > can see what you are dealing with. Access to the chainplate is much less
> > destructive if you reach it through the inner liner rather than from
> above.
> > By removing small sections of the liner you should be able to find the
> > screw and at the same time determine the condition of the core. If the
> core
> > is good, you can fasten the chainplate more securely and patch the liner
> > and be done with it. I didn't do that . The second picture shows what the
> > deck looked like after I ground out the old chainplate.
> >
> > I decided that I didn't want to replace the chainplate as it was
> originally
> > installed. It seemed to me like a system that would inevitably loosen and
> > probably leak. I filled the cavity I created in the deck with an epoxy
> mix
> > and then faired and repaired the deck. Doing so created a sizable area of
> > solid epoxy mix through which I installed a ring bolt with shoulders - I
> > can't remember what it was called but attach a picture. I made large
> > washers from composite decking by using a hole saw.The picture shows the
> > composite washer on both sides of the deck but in the end I didn't need
> the
> > upper one. In this way the bolt was attached in a straight line with the
> > shroud. The bolt went through the solid epoxy fill and was sealed with
> > butyl tape. It seems very secure to me and has no wiggle.
> >
> > I was intending originally to attach new chainplates to the cabin sides
> but
> > decided to replace the ports with a single piece of acrylic so there was
> no
> > place to put the chainplates. In the meantime I inserted a new
> > plywood/epoxy core between the outer skin and liner along the sides of
> the
> > cabin to provide for increased strength for the chainplates. I now know
> > that wasn't necessary but it can't hurt in my case given that I
> > dramatically increased the size of the port openings. I am telling you
> all
> > this so you won't be too confused by the pictures
> >
> > So, if you want to replace the chainplates, you might want to consider
> this
> > use of shoulder bolts once you know the condition of the deck core.
> >
> >
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile 76
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 12:39?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this
> > pulls
> > > apart?  ;)
> > >
> > > Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck
> after
> > > resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the
> > plates
> > > would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not
> > sure
> > > how much I want to get into this kind of project.
> > >
> > > Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total
> newbie
> > > to this kind of project.
> > >
> > > Matt W
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Matt,
> > > >
> > > > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> > > repair,
> > > > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> > > >
> > > > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to the
> > > > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Todd T
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Matt,
> > > > >
> > > > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is an
> > > > > adequate way.
> > > > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose, wet,
> > > > rotted
> > > > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core,
> re-glass
> > > the
> > > > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut
> the
> > > > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave it
> > in
> > > > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall
> and
> > a
> > > > > backing plate inside.
> > > > >
> > > > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut
> > away
> > > > the
> > > > > cabintop.
> > > > >
> > > > > Todd T.
> > > > >
> > > > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what
> is
> > > > > inside.
> > > > >
> > > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >> Hello everyone,
> > > > >>
> > > > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward
> inner
> > > > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past
> and
> > > > made
> > > > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif what
> is
> > > > going
> > > > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > > > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep
> > water
> > > > out
> > > > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > > > >> Matt Wilson
> > > > >> Hornblower II
> > > > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > Name: 20231109_121109.jpg
> > > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > > Size: 967576 bytes
> > > > Desc: not available
> > > > URL: <
> > > >
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6e3ab441/attachment.jpg
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Chainplate.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 89771 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment.jpe
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Chainplates removed 2012.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 87559 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0001.jpe
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Lower chainplates with composite spacers.jpg
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 591134 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment.jpg
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Filling lower shroud holes.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 69382 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0002.jpe
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: Filling cabin sides with plywood (2).JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 187831 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0003.jpe
> > >
> >
>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: DSC00254.jpeg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 2111190 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231110/e6cb2f9f/attachment.jpeg>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: DSC00253.jpeg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 1688591 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231110/e6cb2f9f/attachment-0001.jpeg>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: DSC00256.jpeg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 1722385 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231110/e6cb2f9f/attachment-0002.jpeg>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Fri Nov 10 10:30:35 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2023 09:30:35 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMNKHZoWJaayDRf_x9UhSTiiWZt0_+mPp=Mme5Ls8GXk1A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCudkuJNgym4u5fdRQM2Mg9Mu9hM=C48cfrwfUv3eW8g0A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNyiyyCt=y06G5hxWfjzeXf9wN3FO8WomMCwtWjPtS=ag@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMP1dgUyv3y29A6sEZ_2BnR=_aaqCCam=cjDxQZ0YysuqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCt3vRyW+tXKhrWWOXjqAJKPsoWGaeeS52S3m3YFb2JgUw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT5PVOAgb2Qws47ofjuZ=b9nxmVkHwz=MLqy3XPAM1KPNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANbEFCt8Rt14-fzFmJ2Err+MG3gSVJGjFDqdX9E00KUdOSthow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMNKHZoWJaayDRf_x9UhSTiiWZt0_+mPp=Mme5Ls8GXk1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCuvssqOwjsadhehvw+Jqqck+VsQD4PYCBwK9QDmoqYZ=g@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for those great pictures.  I will delay despairing of my boat?s
serviceability. ;)

Matt

On Fri, Nov 10, 2023 at 9:23 AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm surprised that Slim (Steve A.) hasn't weighed in on the subject yet. He
> consulted with Stan when his lower chainplates were torn completely out of
> the cabin top. My repair was similar to the one Stan suggested to Steve.
>
> I will try to attach the pics he sent me last year.
>
> While Steve had the repairs done at a local boatyard  and did not know what
> material they use for the backing block, I used oak and thickened epoxy as
> the adhesive. I also used a longer tang with three holes instead of two.
>
> INTERESTING NOTE THOUGH: General boats often makes the having pieces of
> standing rigging is bullet proof. But in the case of Steve's accident, the
> forestay broke and I and the whole rig came down.
>
> Todd T.
>
> On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:00 PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Thank you Graham
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 8:31 PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I had to replace the inner chain plates on my 76 R22 - or at least I
> > > thought I had to. Mine were loose and that worried me. As the
> chainplate
> > > was just a stainless steel tang that went through the deck I really
> could
> > > not tell what was holding it or how it might be secured. So I went in
> > from
> > > the deck side with a grinter and removed everything down to the cabin
> > > liner.
> > > After grinding out the deck and core I realized that the chainplate was
> > > only attached to the underside core of the deck with a single 1/2"
> screw
> > > which, of course, was completely loose.. The core itself seemed dry and
> > > solid.
> > >
> > > My advice, without the benefit  of being able to open your pictures, is
> > to
> > > go slow. I have attached a picture of the chain plate after removal so
> > you
> > > can see what you are dealing with. Access to the chainplate is much
> less
> > > destructive if you reach it through the inner liner rather than from
> > above.
> > > By removing small sections of the liner you should be able to find the
> > > screw and at the same time determine the condition of the core. If the
> > core
> > > is good, you can fasten the chainplate more securely and patch the
> liner
> > > and be done with it. I didn't do that . The second picture shows what
> the
> > > deck looked like after I ground out the old chainplate.
> > >
> > > I decided that I didn't want to replace the chainplate as it was
> > originally
> > > installed. It seemed to me like a system that would inevitably loosen
> and
> > > probably leak. I filled the cavity I created in the deck with an epoxy
> > mix
> > > and then faired and repaired the deck. Doing so created a sizable area
> of
> > > solid epoxy mix through which I installed a ring bolt with shoulders -
> I
> > > can't remember what it was called but attach a picture. I made large
> > > washers from composite decking by using a hole saw.The picture shows
> the
> > > composite washer on both sides of the deck but in the end I didn't need
> > the
> > > upper one. In this way the bolt was attached in a straight line with
> the
> > > shroud. The bolt went through the solid epoxy fill and was sealed with
> > > butyl tape. It seems very secure to me and has no wiggle.
> > >
> > > I was intending originally to attach new chainplates to the cabin sides
> > but
> > > decided to replace the ports with a single piece of acrylic so there
> was
> > no
> > > place to put the chainplates. In the meantime I inserted a new
> > > plywood/epoxy core between the outer skin and liner along the sides of
> > the
> > > cabin to provide for increased strength for the chainplates. I now know
> > > that wasn't necessary but it can't hurt in my case given that I
> > > dramatically increased the size of the port openings. I am telling you
> > all
> > > this so you won't be too confused by the pictures
> > >
> > > So, if you want to replace the chainplates, you might want to consider
> > this
> > > use of shoulder bolts once you know the condition of the deck core.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Graham Stewart
> > > Agile 76
> > >
> > >
> > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 12:39?PM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thanks Todd for your help and diagram.  How many more sails till this
> > > pulls
> > > > apart?  ;)
> > > >
> > > > Can I get by by attaching two metal plates above and below the deck
> > after
> > > > resealing to keep moisture out or is it too compromised already? the
> > > plates
> > > > would the fiberglass mess.  I am just a casual lake sailor so I'm not
> > > sure
> > > > how much I want to get into this kind of project.
> > > >
> > > > Have you or anyone else on the list done this repair?  I'm a total
> > newbie
> > > > to this kind of project.
> > > >
> > > > Matt W
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 11:15?AM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Matt,
> > > > >
> > > > > You may have no choice but to pull the hatch; which will aid in the
> > > > repair,
> > > > > replace the core, epoxy, glass etc.
> > > > >
> > > > > This quick sketch doesn't account for the hatch being so close to
> the
> > > > > chainplate but it shows how the cabintop is constructed.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Todd T
> > > > >
> > > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 12:03 PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Matt,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > There is a right way which involves a ton of work, and there is
> an
> > > > > > adequate way.
> > > > > > The hard way is cutting away the cabin top removing any loose,
> wet,
> > > > > rotted
> > > > > > or dry rotted core material. Then epoxy in new plywood core,
> > re-glass
> > > > the
> > > > > > cabin top, fair paint.
> > > > > > The alternative is to cut an access hole in the cabin wall. (Cut
> > the
> > > > > > chainplate with a die grinder to pull it out from above or leave
> it
> > > in
> > > > > > place). Then put the chainplate on the outside of the cabin wall
> > and
> > > a
> > > > > > backing plate inside.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > But looking at your pics, you may have no alternative that to cut
> > > away
> > > > > the
> > > > > > cabintop.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Todd T.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > PS. I'll try to make a couple of pencil sketches so you know what
> > is
> > > > > > inside.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > On Thu, Nov 9, 2023, 11:30 AM Matt Wilson <
> mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > >> Hello everyone,
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> I am asking for guidance on my current issues with the forward
> > inner
> > > > > >> shrouds.  It appears someone had over tightened them in the past
> > and
> > > > > made
> > > > > >> some attempts to shore them up.  I will include pictures oif
> what
> > is
> > > > > going
> > > > > >> on from below and topside.  My question is is this something I
> > > > > >> should completely rework or should I only make attempts to keep
> > > water
> > > > > out
> > > > > >> by sealing up the deck around them?
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >> Many thanks for your help,
> > > > > >> Matt Wilson
> > > > > >> Hornblower II
> > > > > >> White Bear Lake, MN
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.1&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.3&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.5&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=2&ik=67ba79a2ab&attid=0.7&permmsgid=msg-f:1782103858061391360&th=18bb4e04549a3600&view=att&disp=safe
> > > > > >>
> > > > > >
> > > > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > > > Name: 20231109_121109.jpg
> > > > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > > > Size: 967576 bytes
> > > > > Desc: not available
> > > > > URL: <
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/6e3ab441/attachment.jpg
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: Chainplate.JPG
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 89771 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment.jpe
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: Chainplates removed 2012.JPG
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 87559 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0001.jpe
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: Lower chainplates with composite spacers.jpg
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 591134 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment.jpg
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: Filling lower shroud holes.JPG
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 69382 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0002.jpe
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > > Name: Filling cabin sides with plywood (2).JPG
> > > Type: image/jpeg
> > > Size: 187831 bytes
> > > Desc: not available
> > > URL: <
> > >
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231109/ef2e3ebe/attachment-0003.jpe
> > > >
> > >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: DSC00254.jpeg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 2111190 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231110/e6cb2f9f/attachment.jpeg
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: DSC00253.jpeg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 1688591 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231110/e6cb2f9f/attachment-0001.jpeg
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: DSC00256.jpeg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 1722385 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231110/e6cb2f9f/attachment-0002.jpeg
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Nov 10 12:45:12 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2023 17:45:12 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Big boat.
In-Reply-To: <CAEqJHY5eC-WCWXY+YPY1B6i8_MmBwNSZY4DYYpR89AM300uJCg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <B321AA9B-FB7F-444A-9F55-1EB6DC2AF5E5.ref@aol.com>
 <B321AA9B-FB7F-444A-9F55-1EB6DC2AF5E5@aol.com>
 <CACSd1jKiVGaTZEYMb-s_4c=dp67Uyq6y0gOwJjiC0mNTdzwLgg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiU3-eexjfCu2uu4SwEXF303i_OAWTVVSbAjy+MpQeaOjQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEqJHY5eC-WCWXY+YPY1B6i8_MmBwNSZY4DYYpR89AM300uJCg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB66832744E68E3455EBB0984480AEA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi All,

We deal with huge freighters all the time here on the Great Lakes.  They scare me to death!  I always give them the right of weigh, even if I technically have the right of way.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978
Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 9, 2023, at 5:18?PM, Tom Van Heule <tom.vanheule at intrinsicprograms.com> wrote:
>
> ?My repressed thoughts Everytime I am tailgaited, unless family is in the
> car!
>
> Hope everyone has had a great season!
> Stay safe out there,
>
>
>> On Mon, Nov 6, 2023, 9:03 PM Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Remember you are under sail and have right away and you have fabulous
>> insurance. Show those scurvy rats who is in charge. Arrgh.
>> Chris G
>> XENOS
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 6, 2023 at 8:41 AM Michael Corley <michael.4591 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> An autumn afternoon sail in Hampton Roads where tonnage matters!
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> s/v Ranger
>>> 99 Rhodes
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: IMG_4018.jpg
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 97613 bytes
>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>>>
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231106/c23e061c/attachment.jpg
>>>>
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: IMG_4019.jpg
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 110325 bytes
>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>>>
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231106/c23e061c/attachment-0001.jpg
>>>>
>>>
>>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Nov 10 13:22:59 2023
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2023 10:22:59 -0800
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Inner Shroud Issues
Message-ID: <E1r1W9j-001sJq-0r@s152.servername.online>

if I needed to do this project, I think I'd be inclined to attach the chainplates to the outside of cabin wall, rather than having them inside the wall and exiting through the roof.

--Peter

> On 2023-11-10, at 10:22:52 EST, Todd Tavares wrote:
>
> I'm surprised that Slim (Steve A.) hasn't weighed in on the subject yet. He 
> consulted with Stan when his lower chainplates were torn completely out of the 
> cabin top. My repair was similar to the one Stan suggested to Steve. 
> 
> I will try to attach the pics he sent me last year.
> 
> While Steve had the repairs done at a local boatyard  and did not know what 
> material they use for the backing block, I used oak and thickened epoxy as the 
> adhesive. I also used a longer tang with three holes instead of two. 
> 
> INTERESTING NOTE THOUGH: General boats often makes the having pieces of standing 
> rigging is bullet proof. But in the case of Steve's accident, the forestay broke 
> and I and the whole rig came down. 
> 
> Todd T.
> 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231110/e6cb2f9f/attachment.jpeg" 
> target="_blank">DSC00254.jpeg</a> 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231110/e6cb2f9f/attachment-0001.jpeg" 
> target="_blank">DSC00253.jpeg</a> 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231110/e6cb2f9f/attachment-0002.jpeg" 
> target="_blank">DSC00256.jpeg</a> 
> 


From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 10 14:12:51 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2023 14:12:51 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCtSDKoPYoAYLMgN-vDb3Aqy3-T10_sEWb9f8v4HMuN1vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <654e80bf.250a0220.a848a.0162@mx.google.com>

Matt,If you have the Perko round vertical mount running lights on the cabin trunk, they are very easy to remove/replace bulbs. As I said before, they are bayonet mount automotive bulbs.?Joe Dempsey?Trojan 42M/V VoyagerFormer Rhodes 22 (1989-2005)S/V RespiteDeltaville, VA??Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> Date: 11/9/23  3:14 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working Thanks Michael!? Very helpful. Can anyone speak to how hard it is to pullthe running light out with out breaking it?On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 2:01 PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>wrote:> Hi Matt,>> For your convenience, the wiring diagrams created by Chris Cowie many> years ago have been integrated into a single document (Rhodes 22 -> electrical wiring diagram.PDF), which may be viewed at:>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20170701/d8670037/attachment.pdf>> As always, no two Rhodes 22 crafts are the same. At least this may provide> a starting point for you.>> Mike> s/v Wind Lass ('91)> Nissequogue River, NY> I?d rather be sailing :~)>> -----Original Message-----> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of> Matt Wilson> Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 2:20 PM> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working>> Hello everyone,>> I'm sorry to reach out again with another project.? Can you tell I have> the week off and am trying tio get an idea of how to fix a few things?>> At the beginning of the season my portside running light suddenly stopped> working.? Now that I have been able to check it, continuity is broken.? I> have traced it from the box to under the settee but not sure what to do now.>> Is there a likely point that tends to fail?>> Is there a schematic of that system?>> Is it possible to pull the light fixture out, check the connection and or> fish a new wire?>> I am grateful for you veterans on this list willing to answer basic> questions...thanks for your patience, Matt Wilson Hornblower II White Bear> Lake, MN>>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Fri Nov 10 14:18:37 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2023 13:18:37 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working
In-Reply-To: <654e80bf.250a0220.a848a.0162@mx.google.com>
References: <CANbEFCtSDKoPYoAYLMgN-vDb3Aqy3-T10_sEWb9f8v4HMuN1vg@mail.gmail.com>
 <654e80bf.250a0220.a848a.0162@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCs=sc2RLqUZpSKKi97WJZQwg0Hm+Y-rb-8rVoWyj9766A@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you,

I found a break in the connection at the first junction just under the
cabin door.   But for future reference, is the whole light fixture
typically held in place be adhesive?

Matt

On Fri, Nov 10, 2023 at 1:13 PM jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Matt,If you have the Perko round vertical mount running lights on the
> cabin trunk, they are very easy to remove/replace bulbs. As I said before,
> they are bayonet mount automotive bulbs. Joe Dempsey Trojan 42M/V
> VoyagerFormer Rhodes 22 (1989-2005)S/V RespiteDeltaville, VA  Sent via the
> Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
> -------- Original message --------From: Matt Wilson <
> mwhornblower at gmail.com> Date: 11/9/23  3:14 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: The
> Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re:
> [Rhodes22-list] Running light stopped working Thanks Michael!  Very
> helpful. Can anyone speak to how hard it is to pullthe running light out
> with out breaking it?On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 2:01 PM Michael D. Weisner <
> mweisner at ebsmed.com>wrote:> Hi Matt,>> For your convenience, the wiring
> diagrams created by Chris Cowie many> years ago have been integrated into a
> single document (Rhodes 22 -> electrical wiring diagram.PDF), which may be
> viewed at:>>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20170701/d8670037/attachment.pdf>>
> As always, no two Rhodes 22 crafts are the same. At least this may provide>
> a starting point for you.>> Mike> s/v Wind Lass ('91)> Nissequogue River,
> NY> I?d rather be sailing :~)>> -----Original Message-----> From:
> Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of> Matt
> Wilson> Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 2:20 PM> To: The Rhodes 22 Email
> List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light
> stopped working>> Hello everyone,>> I'm sorry to reach out again with
> another project.  Can you tell I have> the week off and am trying tio get
> an idea of how to fix a few things?>> At the beginning of the season my
> portside running light suddenly stopped> working.  Now that I have been
> able to check it, continuity is broken.  I> have traced it from the box to
> under the settee but not sure what to do now.>> Is there a likely point
> that tends to fail?>> Is there a schematic of that system?>> Is it possible
> to pull the light fixture out, check the connection and or> fish a new
> wire?>> I am grateful for you veterans on this list willing to answer
> basic> questions...thanks for your patience, Matt Wilson Hornblower II
> White Bear> Lake, MN>>
>

From tvpolise at aol.com  Sat Nov 11 08:41:32 2023
From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE)
Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2023 08:41:32 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Fwd: 89 Rhodes chainplate
References: <24052B63-CF35-4551-A30D-0CF6F1B4225D.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <24052B63-CF35-4551-A30D-0CF6F1B4225D@aol.com>

?Peter, if you get this can you post. It failed to deliver when I sent.  Might be helpful. 


Begin forwarded message:

> From: THOMAS POLISE <tvpolise at aol.com>
> Date: November 5, 2023 at 5:28:34 PM EST
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: 89 Rhodes chainplate
> 
> ?These are some photos from when my dock
> Line failed in storm and shroud got stuck on dock destroying the chain plate escutcheon. It does look somewhat flimsy but I guess it?s been working. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_3168.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 57033 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231111/9e0e54f4/attachment.jpg>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_3170.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 121439 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231111/9e0e54f4/attachment-0001.jpg>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_3171.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 119864 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231111/9e0e54f4/attachment-0002.jpg>

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 13 11:05:27 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668 at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2023 11:05:27 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light wattage
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCuQMar2eiFaY89vUm7Bj15dY6wLpfPGxxBd_yHmogWXOA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCuQMar2eiFaY89vUm7Bj15dY6wLpfPGxxBd_yHmogWXOA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <012601da164b$3a982a20$afc87e60$@gmail.com>

Matt,

I just went back into my "World Famous Rhodes 22 Boat Book" (a compilation of notes and projects performed on my former R22, "Respite".  Here are specs for LED lamps for the R22 running lights:

1142-R12-G: 1142 Red Globe (SuperbrightLEDS.com)     1142-12.8v.     .10       1000 $6.95
STBD   1142-G12-G: 1142 Green Globe   ?	?	?                                               ?         6.95
STERN  Festoon  DE 3175 LED  30 mm  ?	?           ?                                               ?        1.95
(spare) Superbrtghtled.com                                                                          			   2.09
NOTE: Prices are from 2018


-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
Sent: Saturday, November 4, 2023 11:28 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Running light wattage

Hello all,
I have the older style (1990) running lights. Does anyone know the max wattage bulb I can use?  The ones I?m replacing are quite dim.

Many thanks,
Matt Wilson


From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Fri Nov 17 09:10:39 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2023 09:10:39 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Selling our boat
Message-ID: <CAFTyJNVb7N0sxWkKL+zjk=dpyg9a9regysdk3sekcqnNKKfkYQ@mail.gmail.com>

I am planning on selling my 1990 Rhodes 22. This boat is in fantastic shape
and has had very little use. I purchased it from the original owners who I
don't think used it more than a handful of times. We have sailed it about
once a year for the four years that we've had it. It has always been
covered and never left in the water for more than a few days. It has never
been bottom painted and is in amazing condition. It has a continental mast
but also includes a 2nd IMF mast, boom, furling tube and genoa that I
picked up a few years ago. I also have a spare rudder that may need a
little work. It has a 1990 8hp Mercury 2-stroke with probably less than 10
hours. it was professionally serviced when we purchased it. All standing
rigging was replaced and tuned by a professional rigging company a
few years ago. It also comes with a Load Master single axle trailer, new
wheels and upgraded tires. Trailer has some rust but seems solid. Pop top
enclosure - appears new. We have had so much fun the last few times we used
the boat that we are going to get a larger boat that we can spend weeks at
a time on and travel.
Selling for $14,000
I'll post details and photos as soon as I get a chance to take them. Our
last trip was about a week ago and I have a short video of the trip:
https://youtu.be/rvH8BcTb42M?si=JPtuzEw5HYzxafiF

Mitch
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Rhodes 22.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 880933 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231117/5f2a1ce3/attachment.jpg>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Fri Nov 17 14:24:21 2023
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2023 13:24:21 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Selling our boat
In-Reply-To: <CAFTyJNVb7N0sxWkKL+zjk=dpyg9a9regysdk3sekcqnNKKfkYQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFTyJNVb7N0sxWkKL+zjk=dpyg9a9regysdk3sekcqnNKKfkYQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiWVxA0Gt1eH0mHaQ4wTF5focddtYB8NG-WBU2sUUpim0Q@mail.gmail.com>

Great video thanks for sharing. Excellent looking boat and good price. It
should sell quickly.
Chris Geankoplis
XENOS

On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 8:10 AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:

> I am planning on selling my 1990 Rhodes 22. This boat is in fantastic shape
> and has had very little use. I purchased it from the original owners who I
> don't think used it more than a handful of times. We have sailed it about
> once a year for the four years that we've had it. It has always been
> covered and never left in the water for more than a few days. It has never
> been bottom painted and is in amazing condition. It has a continental mast
> but also includes a 2nd IMF mast, boom, furling tube and genoa that I
> picked up a few years ago. I also have a spare rudder that may need a
> little work. It has a 1990 8hp Mercury 2-stroke with probably less than 10
> hours. it was professionally serviced when we purchased it. All standing
> rigging was replaced and tuned by a professional rigging company a
> few years ago. It also comes with a Load Master single axle trailer, new
> wheels and upgraded tires. Trailer has some rust but seems solid. Pop top
> enclosure - appears new. We have had so much fun the last few times we used
> the boat that we are going to get a larger boat that we can spend weeks at
> a time on and travel.
> Selling for $14,000
> I'll post details and photos as soon as I get a chance to take them. Our
> last trip was about a week ago and I have a short video of the trip:
> https://youtu.be/rvH8BcTb42M?si=JPtuzEw5HYzxafiF
>
> Mitch
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Rhodes 22.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 880933 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231117/5f2a1ce3/attachment.jpg
> >
>

From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Fri Nov 17 17:54:45 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2023 17:54:45 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Selling our boat
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiWVxA0Gt1eH0mHaQ4wTF5focddtYB8NG-WBU2sUUpim0Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiWVxA0Gt1eH0mHaQ4wTF5focddtYB8NG-WBU2sUUpim0Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8B0C4B35-8355-45AE-9E6F-CA521E369C2A@gmail.com>

Thanks Chris! I?m going to hate to see it go.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 17, 2023, at 2:24 PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Great video thanks for sharing. Excellent looking boat and good price. It
> should sell quickly.
> Chris Geankoplis
> XENOS
> 
>> On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 8:10 AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I am planning on selling my 1990 Rhodes 22. This boat is in fantastic shape
>> and has had very little use. I purchased it from the original owners who I
>> don't think used it more than a handful of times. We have sailed it about
>> once a year for the four years that we've had it. It has always been
>> covered and never left in the water for more than a few days. It has never
>> been bottom painted and is in amazing condition. It has a continental mast
>> but also includes a 2nd IMF mast, boom, furling tube and genoa that I
>> picked up a few years ago. I also have a spare rudder that may need a
>> little work. It has a 1990 8hp Mercury 2-stroke with probably less than 10
>> hours. it was professionally serviced when we purchased it. All standing
>> rigging was replaced and tuned by a professional rigging company a
>> few years ago. It also comes with a Load Master single axle trailer, new
>> wheels and upgraded tires. Trailer has some rust but seems solid. Pop top
>> enclosure - appears new. We have had so much fun the last few times we used
>> the boat that we are going to get a larger boat that we can spend weeks at
>> a time on and travel.
>> Selling for $14,000
>> I'll post details and photos as soon as I get a chance to take them. Our
>> last trip was about a week ago and I have a short video of the trip:
>> https://youtu.be/rvH8BcTb42M?si=JPtuzEw5HYzxafiF
>> 
>> Mitch
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: Rhodes 22.jpg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 880933 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231117/5f2a1ce3/attachment.jpg
>>> 
>> 

From rodellner at mac.com  Fri Nov 17 18:26:44 2023
From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner)
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2023 16:26:44 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Selling our boat
In-Reply-To: <8B0C4B35-8355-45AE-9E6F-CA521E369C2A@gmail.com>
References: <8B0C4B35-8355-45AE-9E6F-CA521E369C2A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <490FC724-836F-4C9F-9E7E-C97AAC5222C8@mac.com>

Thanks for sharing??brings back MEMORIES 

Rod & Mary Ellner 
..WI transplants to CO

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 17, 2023, at 3:55 PM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks Chris! I?m going to hate to see it go.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 17, 2023, at 2:24 PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Great video thanks for sharing. Excellent looking boat and good price. It
>> should sell quickly.
>> Chris Geankoplis
>> XENOS
>> 
>>>> On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 8:10 AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I am planning on selling my 1990 Rhodes 22. This boat is in fantastic shape
>>> and has had very little use. I purchased it from the original owners who I
>>> don't think used it more than a handful of times. We have sailed it about
>>> once a year for the four years that we've had it. It has always been
>>> covered and never left in the water for more than a few days. It has never
>>> been bottom painted and is in amazing condition. It has a continental mast
>>> but also includes a 2nd IMF mast, boom, furling tube and genoa that I
>>> picked up a few years ago. I also have a spare rudder that may need a
>>> little work. It has a 1990 8hp Mercury 2-stroke with probably less than 10
>>> hours. it was professionally serviced when we purchased it. All standing
>>> rigging was replaced and tuned by a professional rigging company a
>>> few years ago. It also comes with a Load Master single axle trailer, new
>>> wheels and upgraded tires. Trailer has some rust but seems solid. Pop top
>>> enclosure - appears new. We have had so much fun the last few times we used
>>> the boat that we are going to get a larger boat that we can spend weeks at
>>> a time on and travel.
>>> Selling for $14,000
>>> I'll post details and photos as soon as I get a chance to take them. Our
>>> last trip was about a week ago and I have a short video of the trip:
>>> https://youtu.be/rvH8BcTb42M?si=JPtuzEw5HYzxafiF
>>> 
>>> Mitch
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: Rhodes 22.jpg
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 880933 bytes
>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231117/5f2a1ce3/attachment.jpg
>>>> 
>>> 

From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Fri Nov 17 18:32:18 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2023 18:32:18 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Selling our boat
In-Reply-To: <490FC724-836F-4C9F-9E7E-C97AAC5222C8@mac.com>
References: <490FC724-836F-4C9F-9E7E-C97AAC5222C8@mac.com>
Message-ID: <33394806-A931-428D-B777-9B5C55B610E8@gmail.com>

Thanks! 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 17, 2023, at 6:26 PM, Rod Ellner via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks for sharing??brings back MEMORIES 
> 
> Rod & Mary Ellner 
> ..WI transplants to CO
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 17, 2023, at 3:55 PM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Thanks Chris! I?m going to hate to see it go.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Nov 17, 2023, at 2:24 PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Great video thanks for sharing. Excellent looking boat and good price. It
>>> should sell quickly.
>>> Chris Geankoplis
>>> XENOS
>>> 
>>>>> On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 8:10 AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I am planning on selling my 1990 Rhodes 22. This boat is in fantastic shape
>>>> and has had very little use. I purchased it from the original owners who I
>>>> don't think used it more than a handful of times. We have sailed it about
>>>> once a year for the four years that we've had it. It has always been
>>>> covered and never left in the water for more than a few days. It has never
>>>> been bottom painted and is in amazing condition. It has a continental mast
>>>> but also includes a 2nd IMF mast, boom, furling tube and genoa that I
>>>> picked up a few years ago. I also have a spare rudder that may need a
>>>> little work. It has a 1990 8hp Mercury 2-stroke with probably less than 10
>>>> hours. it was professionally serviced when we purchased it. All standing
>>>> rigging was replaced and tuned by a professional rigging company a
>>>> few years ago. It also comes with a Load Master single axle trailer, new
>>>> wheels and upgraded tires. Trailer has some rust but seems solid. Pop top
>>>> enclosure - appears new. We have had so much fun the last few times we used
>>>> the boat that we are going to get a larger boat that we can spend weeks at
>>>> a time on and travel.
>>>> Selling for $14,000
>>>> I'll post details and photos as soon as I get a chance to take them. Our
>>>> last trip was about a week ago and I have a short video of the trip:
>>>> https://youtu.be/rvH8BcTb42M?si=JPtuzEw5HYzxafiF
>>>> 
>>>> Mitch
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> Name: Rhodes 22.jpg
>>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>>> Size: 880933 bytes
>>>> Desc: not available
>>>> URL: <
>>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231117/5f2a1ce3/attachment.jpg
>>>>> 
>>>> 

From bgarrant at gmail.com  Tue Nov 21 12:42:14 2023
From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant)
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2023 12:42:14 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Selling our boat
In-Reply-To: <CAFTyJNVb7N0sxWkKL+zjk=dpyg9a9regysdk3sekcqnNKKfkYQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFTyJNVb7N0sxWkKL+zjk=dpyg9a9regysdk3sekcqnNKKfkYQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPi3tBCPsz8rDSw1ynRHUM0dKpemXnXJJWiHS0u4T37dDJ53pQ@mail.gmail.com>

I had an opportunity to see Mitch?s Rhodes yesterday. It does look great.
Hull and deck looks great. This will be a terrific boat for anyone that
wants to become a Rhodie or move up from a current vessel.

Bob Garrant
s/v Salk la Vie
Kent Island, MD

Mitch,
you guys are definitely welcome to sail with me on the Chester or the Bay
if you find yourselves near Kent Island after the winter.


On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 9:10?AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:

> I am planning on selling my 1990 Rhodes 22. This boat is in fantastic shape
> and has had very little use. I purchased it from the original owners who I
> don't think used it more than a handful of times. We have sailed it about
> once a year for the four years that we've had it. It has always been
> covered and never left in the water for more than a few days. It has never
> been bottom painted and is in amazing condition. It has a continental mast
> but also includes a 2nd IMF mast, boom, furling tube and genoa that I
> picked up a few years ago. I also have a spare rudder that may need a
> little work. It has a 1990 8hp Mercury 2-stroke with probably less than 10
> hours. it was professionally serviced when we purchased it. All standing
> rigging was replaced and tuned by a professional rigging company a
> few years ago. It also comes with a Load Master single axle trailer, new
> wheels and upgraded tires. Trailer has some rust but seems solid. Pop top
> enclosure - appears new. We have had so much fun the last few times we used
> the boat that we are going to get a larger boat that we can spend weeks at
> a time on and travel.
> Selling for $14,000
> I'll post details and photos as soon as I get a chance to take them. Our
> last trip was about a week ago and I have a short video of the trip:
> https://youtu.be/rvH8BcTb42M?si=JPtuzEw5HYzxafiF
>
> Mitch
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Rhodes 22.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 880933 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231117/5f2a1ce3/attachment.jpg
> >
>

From jayf401 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 22 19:00:58 2023
From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland)
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2023 19:00:58 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer Jack replacement
Message-ID: <4A8D9718-DF71-4F13-A649-033759DC752C@gmail.com>

After 12 years or so, my Fulton trailer jack on my (Stan supplied) Triad trailer froze up. If the boat?s average weight is approximately 4,000 lbs., the tongue weight maybe on the high side at 500 lbs., I?ve looked at ratings at 1,000 to 1,200 lbs., overbuilt, but I rely on it often. I liked the Fulton unit but can?t identify it or also looking at the Reese Towpower 74410. Any help on this or a good replacement is appreciated.

Jay Friedland
S/V Wanderlust ?97


From retiredtoby at gmail.com  Wed Nov 22 19:16:04 2023
From: retiredtoby at gmail.com (Cary Tolbert)
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2023 19:16:04 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer Jack replacement
In-Reply-To: <4A8D9718-DF71-4F13-A649-033759DC752C@gmail.com>
References: <4A8D9718-DF71-4F13-A649-033759DC752C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPQvPRrboTmJkN6uQHsFYONa1CpRWpRNoC+mC0kS0SE91pv_zQ@mail.gmail.com>

Check out Etrailer


On Wed, Nov 22, 2023, 7:01 PM Jay Friedland <jayf401 at gmail.com> wrote:

> After 12 years or so, my Fulton trailer jack on my (Stan supplied) Triad
> trailer froze up. If the boat?s average weight is approximately 4,000 lbs.,
> the tongue weight maybe on the high side at 500 lbs., I?ve looked at
> ratings at 1,000 to 1,200 lbs., overbuilt, but I rely on it often. I liked
> the Fulton unit but can?t identify it or also looking at the Reese Towpower
> 74410. Any help on this or a good replacement is appreciated.
>
> Jay Friedland
> S/V Wanderlust ?97
>
>

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Nov 22 19:41:07 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2023 19:41:07 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer Jack replacement
In-Reply-To: <4A8D9718-DF71-4F13-A649-033759DC752C@gmail.com>
References: <4A8D9718-DF71-4F13-A649-033759DC752C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006b01da1da5$c0067930$40136b90$@ebsmed.com>

Amazon.com has the Fulton XP10 0101 Swivel Trailer Tongue Jack, 1200 Lbs. Capacity for $83.54

Just look up "Fulton Swivel Trailer Jack" on Amazon for quite a selection.

Harbor Freight has the "Haul-Master" line for a bit less. I've been happy with the Haul-Master 1500 lbs Dual Wheel for the trailer tongue.

I added two more to the rear of the trailer to prevent my single axle from moving (down) when not hooked to the tow vehicle as I climb up the stern ladder. Only one is actually needed but I have lifted the tires off the ground with these jacks. I then place blocks under the axle near the wheels and release some of the pressure on the jacks. I wanted to get a heavier duty jack for the rear but they require a welded fitting, not just a bolt on. Be sure to get swing away jacks otherwise they may interfere with recovery in shallow water.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Jay Friedland
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2023 7:01 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer Jack replacement

After 12 years or so, my Fulton trailer jack on my (Stan supplied) Triad trailer froze up. If the boat?s average weight is approximately 4,000 lbs., the tongue weight maybe on the high side at 500 lbs., I?ve looked at ratings at 1,000 to 1,200 lbs., overbuilt, but I rely on it often. I liked the Fulton unit but can?t identify it or also looking at the Reese Towpower 74410. Any help on this or a good replacement is appreciated.

Jay Friedland
S/V Wanderlust ?97


From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Wed Nov 22 22:36:15 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2023 22:36:15 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer Jack replacement
In-Reply-To: <4A8D9718-DF71-4F13-A649-033759DC752C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <655ec8c1.050a0220.36666.0693@mx.google.com>

If memory serves me, the Rhodes weighs c. 2500 lbs.Joe DempseyTrojan 42M/V VoyagerFormer Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VA??Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Jay Friedland <jayf401 at gmail.com> Date: 11/22/23  7:12 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer Jack replacement After 12 years or so, my Fulton trailer jack on my (Stan supplied) Triad trailer froze up. If the boat?s average weight is approximately 4,000 lbs., the tongue weight maybe on the high side at 500 lbs., I?ve looked at ratings at 1,000 to 1,200 lbs., overbuilt, but I rely on it often. I liked the Fulton unit but can?t identify it or also looking at the Reese Towpower 74410. Any help on this or a good replacement is appreciated.Jay FriedlandS/V Wanderlust ?97

From jayf401 at gmail.com  Thu Nov 23 06:50:30 2023
From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland)
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2023 06:50:30 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer Jack replacement
In-Reply-To: <655ec8c1.050a0220.36666.0693@mx.google.com>
References: <655ec8c1.050a0220.36666.0693@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <D1152C0A-9B4E-40B4-A504-CC169C7371C1@gmail.com>

Thanks, Mike & guys. Went with the Fulton after a solid track record. Btw, I got a 3 ton floor jack from Harbor Freight @ $79 a couple years ago to raise & block rear end of trailer. I got it off the tires for winter and no bounce for using stern ladder.
Jay
Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 22, 2023, at 10:36?PM, jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?If memory serves me, the Rhodes weighs c. 2500 lbs.Joe DempseyTrojan 42M/V VoyagerFormer Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VA  Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
> -------- Original message --------From: Jay Friedland <jayf401 at gmail.com> Date: 11/22/23  7:12 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Triad Trailer Jack replacement After 12 years or so, my Fulton trailer jack on my (Stan supplied) Triad trailer froze up. If the boat?s average weight is approximately 4,000 lbs., the tongue weight maybe on the high side at 500 lbs., I?ve looked at ratings at 1,000 to 1,200 lbs., overbuilt, but I rely on it often. I liked the Fulton unit but can?t identify it or also looking at the Reese Towpower 74410. Any help on this or a good replacement is appreciated.Jay FriedlandS/V Wanderlust ?97