From jamcando126 at yahoo.com  Sun Oct  1 11:07:49 2023
From: jamcando126 at yahoo.com (John McLaughlin)
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2023 15:07:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] How robust are the pintles?
In-Reply-To: <1749200177.570237.1696127716746@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1749200177.570237.1696127716746.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1749200177.570237.1696127716746@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1603095986.5033982.1696172869043@mail.yahoo.com>

Sounds good.


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Saturday, September 30, 2023, 10:35 PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

Many thanks for the collective wisdom and to everyone who chimed in.? I will not be mounting the mast crutch on the pintles and will instead rig something to the transom or bench top.??? ?Thanks again
Peter




From kayakim57 at gmail.com  Mon Oct  2 12:15:03 2023
From: kayakim57 at gmail.com (Kim Wann)
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2023 11:15:03 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Looking for a Tandem Axle Trailer for a Rhodes 22
Message-ID: <CADc7gR6tjp3GAtz9X3bR8zF3ZLwtVz=Z3WPWyXNENd0w3PDnGQ@mail.gmail.com>

We just purchased a Rhodes 22.
We'd like to find a galvanized tandem axle trailer with brakes made for the
Rhodes 22.  We'd prefer to have one with the tongue extension.  We live in
Texas.
Please let us know if you know of one.
Thank you!

From kayakim57 at gmail.com  Mon Oct  2 12:45:06 2023
From: kayakim57 at gmail.com (Kim Wann)
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2023 11:45:06 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Looking for a Tandem Axle Trailer for a Rhodes 22
Message-ID: <CADc7gR7+SypOAcA9bjCX-CEUUwTjvh4TYe7Arx9L43C8iUqcag@mail.gmail.com>

We just purchased a Rhodes 22.
We'd like to find a galvanized tandem axle trailer with brakes made for the
Rhodes 22.  We'd prefer to have one with the tongue extension.  We live in
Texas.
Please let us know if you know of one.
Thank you!

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Mon Oct  2 13:19:50 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2023 13:19:50 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Looking for a Tandem Axle Trailer for a Rhodes
	22
In-Reply-To: <CADc7gR7+SypOAcA9bjCX-CEUUwTjvh4TYe7Arx9L43C8iUqcag@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADc7gR7+SypOAcA9bjCX-CEUUwTjvh4TYe7Arx9L43C8iUqcag@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002801d9f554$a7bb53b0$f731fb10$@ebsmed.com>

Your best bet is either through Stan at General Boats (http://www.rhodes22parts.com/home.html) or through Mike at Triad Trailer (https://www.triadtrailers.com/triad-trailer-gallery/sailboat-trailers/triad-trailers-under-24-feet/triad-trailersrhodes-22/).

Stan will be at the Annapolis Saliboat Show in 2 weeks if you want to talk to him in person or through his or  email (stan at generalboats.com). I believe that Charles Gabriel is helping Stan respond to parts requests at charles.gabriel at gmail.com

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)


-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Kim Wann
Sent: Monday, October 2, 2023 12:45 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Looking for a Tandem Axle Trailer for a Rhodes 22

We just purchased a Rhodes 22.
We'd like to find a galvanized tandem axle trailer with brakes made for the Rhodes 22.  We'd prefer to have one with the tongue extension.  We live in Texas.
Please let us know if you know of one.
Thank you!


From rodellner at mac.com  Tue Oct  3 12:46:26 2023
From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner)
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2023 10:46:26 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Looking for a Tandem Axle Trailer for a Rhodes
	22
In-Reply-To: <CADc7gR6tjp3GAtz9X3bR8zF3ZLwtVz=Z3WPWyXNENd0w3PDnGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADc7gR6tjp3GAtz9X3bR8zF3ZLwtVz=Z3WPWyXNENd0w3PDnGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <79F32A10-5A2C-4EA4-A088-5A41AE5A30CD@mac.com>

Where in Texas?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 2, 2023, at 10:15 AM, Kim Wann <kayakim57 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?We just purchased a Rhodes 22.
> We'd like to find a galvanized tandem axle trailer with brakes made for the
> Rhodes 22.  We'd prefer to have one with the tongue extension.  We live in
> Texas.
> Please let us know if you know of one.
> Thank you!

From Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Oct  4 17:12:30 2023
From: Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2023 21:12:30 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Lake Winnebago, WI Cruise In The Summer of 2024
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB6683ED7D26DCA4566193671180CBA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi All,

Has anybody done any cruising on Lake Winnebago, WI?

Next summer, I'm planning to take my son, Gary, and two grandchildren, Kaley and Fred, on a cruise on Lake Winnebago, WI.  Kaley will be 9 years and Fred will be 7 years old.  This will be their first overnight boating experience.  Lake Winnebago is in NE Wisconsin and at nearly 118,000 acres, is the largest inland lake in the state.  We plan to launch and retrieve from High Cliff State Park in the NE corner of the lake.  High Cliff State Park has several miles of easy hiking and biking trails along the Niagara Escarpment, the same rock cliff that forms Niagara Falls in NY state.  Besides the cliffs with their stunning views of Lake Winnebago, there are ruins from lime quarrying and calcining operations to explore.  High Cliff State Park has its own full service marina with reservable transient dockage and we plan to stay on the boat.  Besides staying at the dock at High Cliff, I'm thinking I'd like to spend a night on the hook.  There are special anchorages identified on the charts at Miller Bay in Oshkosh, WI and in the Lower Fox River on the S side of Doty Island, near the hospital in Neenah, WI.  Does anyone have any local knowledge re either of these 2 anchorages?  All else being equal, I would prefer anchoring off Doty Island because I want to take S/V Dynamic Equilibrium thru at least the Menasha Lock on the Lower Fox River and would really prefer to sail the length of Little Lake Butte Des Morts (Literally: Little Lake Cliff Of Death!) and lock thru Locks 1-4 in Appleton, WI.  If I were to anchor in Miller Bay, I would have to sail several miles to get to the entrance to the Lower Fox River.  In this scenario, there would probably only be time to do the Menasha Lock before turning around and sailing back to High Cliffs.  Does anyone know of any other anchorages, especially near the N end of Lake Winnebago?  Does anyone have any suggestions for kid friendly activities in Oshkosh, Neenah, &/or Appleton, WI?  If we get to Appleton, I would especially appreciate a suggestion for a boat-up restaurant for lunch or dinner.

If Kaley and Fred like this cruise, in future years, we may attempt to cruise all 39 miles of the Lower Fox River from Lake Winnebago to Green Bay thru all 19 locks (a drop of ~170 ft!) and then do some cruising on Lower Green Bay.  Just transiting the Lower Fox River with all the locks will require a whole day.  Many of these locks are unusual in that they are hand operated, just like they were when originally installed in the 1850's.  These locks are old school, no floating bollards like on the big US Army Corps Of Engineers locks on the western rivers.  You have to have someone handling a line at each bollard as well as someone to fend off the walls and good fenders.  The Lower Fox River lock system was actually the first public works project for the, then new, state of Wisconsin (admitted to the union in 1848).  For a while, the Lower Fox River lock system greatly expanded economic activity in cities like Green Bay, Appleton, Neenah, and Oshkosh, WI.  But, with the coming of trains and trucks to move cargo, the system fell into disuse and then disrepair.  It has only recently been restored and reopened for recreational boating.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

From cknell at vt.edu  Fri Oct  6 10:59:29 2023
From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI)
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2023 10:59:29 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint - Trailer Bunks
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB6683ED7D26DCA4566193671180CBA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683ED7D26DCA4566193671180CBA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <39d203ca-9d24-0bd6-e4bf-9f6936610ab2@vt.edu>

Hey all,

Does anyone have any suggestions for how to apply bottom paint where the 
trailer bunks interfere with access? I've been applying ablative bottom 
paint every second year or so and it's been working well, but I do have 
to scrape a lot of marine growth off the two unpainted stripes every 2 
or 3 weeks during the season.

Thanks,
Chris


From canusmajor54 at gmail.com  Fri Oct  6 12:07:52 2023
From: canusmajor54 at gmail.com (Jeff Kantor)
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2023 12:07:52 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint - Trailer Bunks
In-Reply-To: <39d203ca-9d24-0bd6-e4bf-9f6936610ab2@vt.edu>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683ED7D26DCA4566193671180CBA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <39d203ca-9d24-0bd6-e4bf-9f6936610ab2@vt.edu>
Message-ID: <CA+qybHFQf-=vghSzeFT6osny-4s0PsYHDi71QX5W=L+7r7Aw6g@mail.gmail.com>

Jack the boat off the trailer bunk?. Hopefully enough to scrape sand and
paint

On Fri, Oct 6, 2023 at 10:59 AM Chris on LBI <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for how to apply bottom paint where the
> trailer bunks interfere with access? I've been applying ablative bottom
> paint every second year or so and it's been working well, but I do have
> to scrape a lot of marine growth off the two unpainted stripes every 2
> or 3 weeks during the season.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>
>

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Fri Oct  6 12:44:18 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2023 12:44:18 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint - Trailer Bunks
In-Reply-To: <CA+qybHFQf-=vghSzeFT6osny-4s0PsYHDi71QX5W=L+7r7Aw6g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683ED7D26DCA4566193671180CBA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <39d203ca-9d24-0bd6-e4bf-9f6936610ab2@vt.edu>
 <CA+qybHFQf-=vghSzeFT6osny-4s0PsYHDi71QX5W=L+7r7Aw6g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMM5EHKWs4Fbj9BoLhydeF2mjAb_2r27JRo=2=NCooo87Q@mail.gmail.com>

Chris,

There is a whole procedure described in the archives. You start by lowering
the tongue of the trailer stern as high as possible. Then you block the
stern up. Once you have the Stern blocked, then you jack the tongue up as
high, as possible. You can use a floor jack and blocks if necessary. Block
the bow.
Once the bow is blocked bring the trailer back level. That should give you
a few inches between the hull and bunks. I know Slim (Steve Alm) posted
pics in the Archives about a decade ago.

Todd T

On Fri, Oct 6, 2023, 12:08 PM Jeff Kantor <canusmajor54 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Jack the boat off the trailer bunk?. Hopefully enough to scrape sand and
> paint
>
> On Fri, Oct 6, 2023 at 10:59 AM Chris on LBI <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:
>
> > Hey all,
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions for how to apply bottom paint where the
> > trailer bunks interfere with access? I've been applying ablative bottom
> > paint every second year or so and it's been working well, but I do have
> > to scrape a lot of marine growth off the two unpainted stripes every 2
> > or 3 weeks during the season.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Chris
> >
> >
>

From cknell at vt.edu  Fri Oct  6 18:25:33 2023
From: cknell at vt.edu (Chris on LBI)
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2023 18:25:33 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint - Trailer Bunks
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMM5EHKWs4Fbj9BoLhydeF2mjAb_2r27JRo=2=NCooo87Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683ED7D26DCA4566193671180CBA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <39d203ca-9d24-0bd6-e4bf-9f6936610ab2@vt.edu>
 <CA+qybHFQf-=vghSzeFT6osny-4s0PsYHDi71QX5W=L+7r7Aw6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMM5EHKWs4Fbj9BoLhydeF2mjAb_2r27JRo=2=NCooo87Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3bf7d1fb-5f0e-32c4-d7b1-12eacc4598ec@vt.edu>

I love it. I wish I had thought of that.

As you suggested, I found this related link in the archives:
http://rhodes22.org/reference-topic.html?M|reference/Maintenance%20-%20Lifting%20Boat%20off%20of%20Trailer.html

I just measured the change in elevation of the rear end of my trailer. 
Starting at horizontal, I can get about 5" of additional elevation at 
the aft end of the bunks if I lower the tongue to the ground; so a 
little more than that for the aft end of the boat. I use a 1" roller to 
apply the paint, so this will be plenty of room.

I'm not very familiar with blocking, but I'm thinking I would make 
cinder block "towers" to port and starboard and then use a 6x6 x 8' beam 
between the towers on which the hull would rest. Then I'd cut wedges to 
jamb in on each side to prevent rolling. This would be located close to 
the aft end of the bunks. I would do something similar for the blocking 
near the bow, but with the "towers" closer together so that they fit 
under and through the trailer frame. These would be about 30" aft of the 
bow. But wedges don't make sense under the bow due to the shape of the 
hull, so the forward hull would rest on the 6x6 with no wedges; maybe 
just put 6x6 blocks in on each side and fasten them into place on the 
6x6 beam. Does that sound about right?

Chris

On 10/6/2023 12:44 PM, Todd Tavares wrote:
> Chris,
>
> There is a whole procedure described in the archives. You start by lowering
> the tongue of the trailer stern as high as possible. Then you block the
> stern up. Once you have the Stern blocked, then you jack the tongue up as
> high, as possible. You can use a floor jack and blocks if necessary. Block
> the bow.
> Once the bow is blocked bring the trailer back level. That should give you
> a few inches between the hull and bunks. I know Slim (Steve Alm) posted
> pics in the Archives about a decade ago.
>
> Todd T
>
> On Fri, Oct 6, 2023, 12:08 PM Jeff Kantor <canusmajor54 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Jack the boat off the trailer bunk?. Hopefully enough to scrape sand and
>> paint
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 6, 2023 at 10:59 AM Chris on LBI <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey all,
>>>
>>> Does anyone have any suggestions for how to apply bottom paint where the
>>> trailer bunks interfere with access? I've been applying ablative bottom
>>> paint every second year or so and it's been working well, but I do have
>>> to scrape a lot of marine growth off the two unpainted stripes every 2
>>> or 3 weeks during the season.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Chris
>>>
>>>


From canusmajor54 at gmail.com  Fri Oct  6 19:50:58 2023
From: canusmajor54 at gmail.com (Jeff Kantor)
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2023 19:50:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint - Trailer Bunks
In-Reply-To: <3bf7d1fb-5f0e-32c4-d7b1-12eacc4598ec@vt.edu>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683ED7D26DCA4566193671180CBA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <39d203ca-9d24-0bd6-e4bf-9f6936610ab2@vt.edu>
 <CA+qybHFQf-=vghSzeFT6osny-4s0PsYHDi71QX5W=L+7r7Aw6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMM5EHKWs4Fbj9BoLhydeF2mjAb_2r27JRo=2=NCooo87Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <3bf7d1fb-5f0e-32c4-d7b1-12eacc4598ec@vt.edu>
Message-ID: <CA+qybHFvbZstJ76AKfAoZOAnmRHg930sZzxpZAz1__6tjru9-g@mail.gmail.com>

The bow is OK without wedges because the rear  hull is supported on both
sides at that point.

On Fri, Oct 6, 2023 at 6:25 PM Chris on LBI <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:

> I love it. I wish I had thought of that.
>
> As you suggested, I found this related link in the archives:
>
> http://rhodes22.org/reference-topic.html?M|reference/Maintenance%20-%20Lifting%20Boat%20off%20of%20Trailer.html
> <http://rhodes22.org/reference-topic.html?M%7Creference/Maintenance%20-%20Lifting%20Boat%20off%20of%20Trailer.html>
>
> I just measured the change in elevation of the rear end of my trailer.
> Starting at horizontal, I can get about 5" of additional elevation at
> the aft end of the bunks if I lower the tongue to the ground; so a
> little more than that for the aft end of the boat. I use a 1" roller to
> apply the paint, so this will be plenty of room.
>
> I'm not very familiar with blocking, but I'm thinking I would make
> cinder block "towers" to port and starboard and then use a 6x6 x 8' beam
> between the towers on which the hull would rest. Then I'd cut wedges to
> jamb in on each side to prevent rolling. This would be located close to
> the aft end of the bunks. I would do something similar for the blocking
> near the bow, but with the "towers" closer together so that they fit
> under and through the trailer frame. These would be about 30" aft of the
> bow. But wedges don't make sense under the bow due to the shape of the
> hull, so the forward hull would rest on the 6x6 with no wedges; maybe
> just put 6x6 blocks in on each side and fasten them into place on the
> 6x6 beam. Does that sound about right?
>
> Chris
>
> On 10/6/2023 12:44 PM, Todd Tavares wrote:
> > Chris,
> >
> > There is a whole procedure described in the archives. You start by
> lowering
> > the tongue of the trailer stern as high as possible. Then you block the
> > stern up. Once you have the Stern blocked, then you jack the tongue up as
> > high, as possible. You can use a floor jack and blocks if necessary.
> Block
> > the bow.
> > Once the bow is blocked bring the trailer back level. That should give
> you
> > a few inches between the hull and bunks. I know Slim (Steve Alm) posted
> > pics in the Archives about a decade ago.
> >
> > Todd T
> >
> > On Fri, Oct 6, 2023, 12:08 PM Jeff Kantor <canusmajor54 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >> Jack the boat off the trailer bunk?. Hopefully enough to scrape sand and
> >> paint
> >>
> >> On Fri, Oct 6, 2023 at 10:59 AM Chris on LBI <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hey all,
> >>>
> >>> Does anyone have any suggestions for how to apply bottom paint where
> the
> >>> trailer bunks interfere with access? I've been applying ablative bottom
> >>> paint every second year or so and it's been working well, but I do have
> >>> to scrape a lot of marine growth off the two unpainted stripes every 2
> >>> or 3 weeks during the season.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Chris
> >>>
> >>>
>
>

From jbconnolly at comcast.net  Fri Oct  6 19:53:57 2023
From: jbconnolly at comcast.net (Jim Connolly)
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2023 19:53:57 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint - Trailer Bunks
In-Reply-To: <3bf7d1fb-5f0e-32c4-d7b1-12eacc4598ec@vt.edu>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683ED7D26DCA4566193671180CBA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <39d203ca-9d24-0bd6-e4bf-9f6936610ab2@vt.edu>
 <CA+qybHFQf-=vghSzeFT6osny-4s0PsYHDi71QX5W=L+7r7Aw6g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB-twMM5EHKWs4Fbj9BoLhydeF2mjAb_2r27JRo=2=NCooo87Q@mail.gmail.com>,
 <3bf7d1fb-5f0e-32c4-d7b1-12eacc4598ec@vt.edu>
Message-ID: <4B6ECC7D-3563-3443-9E6F-A89441D20A4D@hxcore.ol>


From charles.gabriel at gmail.com  Fri Oct  6 21:02:26 2023
From: charles.gabriel at gmail.com (Charles Gabriel)
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2023 21:02:26 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint - Trailer Bunks
In-Reply-To: <39d203ca-9d24-0bd6-e4bf-9f6936610ab2@vt.edu>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683ED7D26DCA4566193671180CBA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <39d203ca-9d24-0bd6-e4bf-9f6936610ab2@vt.edu>
Message-ID: <CABCtkXUJHnH0MNLRwOVpFgJtvUwvdhi8Cby_aTuymkYTvv0BKA@mail.gmail.com>

Has anyone tried anything like this?  "trailer mounted boat jacks"
[image: 379947961_10060644193977367_3097177820137557601_n.jpg]
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/6530938920325484

<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
Virus-free.www.avg.com
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Fri, Oct 6, 2023 at 10:59?AM Chris on LBI <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for how to apply bottom paint where the
> trailer bunks interfere with access? I've been applying ablative bottom
> paint every second year or so and it's been working well, but I do have
> to scrape a lot of marine growth off the two unpainted stripes every 2
> or 3 weeks during the season.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>
>

-- 
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous
by letting the American Government
take care of him;
better take a closer look at the American Indian."
Henry Ford
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From jwiberg at wi.rr.com  Fri Oct  6 23:33:53 2023
From: jwiberg at wi.rr.com (jwiberg at wi.rr.com)
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2023 03:33:53 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Lake Winnebago, WI Cruise In The Summer of 2024
Message-ID: <97f9303fa7ef52813673462eda5789e3d267e648@webmail>

Hi Roger,

Sounds like a fun trip with the kiddos.

I have been sailing my ?82 Rhodes 22 in Milwaukee Bay since 1990,
but I grew up in Menasha on the north end of Lake Winnebago, boating
on Lake Winnebago and the Fox River. I spent my high school and
college years from the mid sixties through the mid seventies sailing
and racing scows at both Neenah and Oshkosh. Tugs and coal barges were
still using the lock and canal system in the fifties. When I was using
the lock system in the seventies, it was still run by the Army Corps
of Engineers. I haven?t used them since they were abandoned and
reopened by a local group

Lake Winnebago does not lend itself very well to spending a night on
the hook. Nothing on the east shore at all. Anything other than a west
wind will leaves no protected anchorages on the west shore. Asylum Bay
or maybe tucking in behind Island Park (known locally as Garlic
Island) are possibilities, but they?re both just north of Oshkosh,
so probably too far from Menasha.

The charted special anchorages, one in Oshkosh and two in Neenah, are
actually mooring buoy fields managed by the two local yacht clubs,
Oshkosh YC and Neenah-Nodaway YC. I don?t believe either club has
transient moorings. The anchorage you're considering near the hospital
is adjacent to a dam and spillway. When the dam gates are open, the
current is quite strong. Much too dangerous to attempt anchoring.

There is a small marina along the Government Canal in Menasha. It?s
not far from the Menasha lock, they have transient slips, and there
are several restaurants within walking distance.

There is a reef across the entrance to the Fox River at Menasha. The
best approach is from the south. My dad and I used to anchor our
fishing boat at the north end of the reef to catch walleyes and it was
always great fun to watch boats come flying in from the east and tear
up their bottoms and lower units.

One final thing. Beware the infamous Lake Winnebago cross chop. The
lake is so shallow that winds in the 12 to15 knot range can whip up
some pretty good waves that ricochet off the shores and come at you
from all directions. In the 70?s, Oshkosh hosted an ILYA E Scow
championship. One of the race days had 15 knot winds. The out of town
PRO (small lake guy) said ?We always race in 15 knots?. The local
crews said ?We?ll sit this one out?. It?s kind of awesome
seeing what happens to a 30 foot mast when an E boat turtles in 20
feet of water.

Let me know If you have any more questions.

John Wiberg

	-----------------------------------------From: "ROGER PIHLAJA" 
To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday October 4 2023 4:21:50PM
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Lake Winnebago, WI Cruise In The Summer of
2024

 Hi All,

 Has anybody done any cruising on Lake Winnebago, WI?

 Next summer, I'm planning to take my son, Gary, and two
grandchildren, Kaley and Fred, on a cruise on Lake Winnebago, WI.
Kaley will be 9 years and Fred will be 7 years old. This will be their
first overnight boating experience. Lake Winnebago is in NE Wisconsin
and at nearly 118,000 acres, is the largest inland lake in the state.
We plan to launch and retrieve from High Cliff State Park in the NE
corner of the lake. High Cliff State Park has several miles of easy
hiking and biking trails along the Niagara Escarpment, the same rock
cliff that forms Niagara Falls in NY state. Besides the cliffs with
their stunning views of Lake Winnebago, there are ruins from lime
quarrying and calcining operations to explore. High Cliff State Park
has its own full service marina with reservable transient dockage and
we plan to stay on the boat. Besides staying at the dock at High
Cliff, I'm thinking I'd like to spend a night on the hook. There are
special anchorages identified on the charts at Miller Bay in Oshkosh,
WI and in the Lower Fox River on the S side of Doty Island, near the
hospital in Neenah, WI. Does anyone have any local knowledge re either
of these 2 anchorages? All else being equal, I would prefer anchoring
off Doty Island because I want to take S/V Dynamic Equilibrium thru at
least the Menasha Lock on the Lower Fox River and would really prefer
to sail the length of Little Lake Butte Des Morts (Literally: Little
Lake Cliff Of Death!) and lock thru Locks 1-4 in Appleton, WI. If I
were to anchor in Miller Bay, I would have to sail several miles to
get to the entrance to the Lower Fox River. In this scenario, there
would probably only be time to do the Menasha Lock before turning
around and sailing back to High Cliffs. Does anyone know of any other
anchorages, especially near the N end of Lake Winnebago? Does anyone
have any suggestions for kid friendly activities in Oshkosh, Neenah,
&/or Appleton, WI? If we get to Appleton, I would especially
appreciate a suggestion for a boat-up restaurant for lunch or dinner.

 If Kaley and Fred like this cruise, in future years, we may attempt
to cruise all 39 miles of the Lower Fox River from Lake Winnebago to
Green Bay thru all 19 locks (a drop of ~170 ft!) and then do some
cruising on Lower Green Bay. Just transiting the Lower Fox River with
all the locks will require a whole day. Many of these locks are
unusual in that they are hand operated, just like they were when
originally installed in the 1850's. These locks are old school, no
floating bollards like on the big US Army Corps Of Engineers locks on
the western rivers. You have to have someone handling a line at each
bollard as well as someone to fend off the walls and good fenders. The
Lower Fox River lock system was actually the first public works
project for the, then new, state of Wisconsin (admitted to the union
in 1848). For a while, the Lower Fox River lock system greatly
expanded economic activity in cities like Green Bay, Appleton, Neenah,
and Oshkosh, WI. But, with the coming of trains and trucks to move
cargo, the system fell into disuse and then disrepair. It has only
recently been restored and reopened for recreational boating.

 Roger Pihlaja
 S/V Dynamic Equilibrium


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Oct  7 05:29:17 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2023 09:29:17 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint - Trailer Bunks
In-Reply-To: <CABCtkXUJHnH0MNLRwOVpFgJtvUwvdhi8Cby_aTuymkYTvv0BKA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683ED7D26DCA4566193671180CBA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <39d203ca-9d24-0bd6-e4bf-9f6936610ab2@vt.edu>
 <CABCtkXUJHnH0MNLRwOVpFgJtvUwvdhi8Cby_aTuymkYTvv0BKA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB668368FE740091ACCF97143280C8A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Charles,

I have 4 jack stands that sit on the ground.  I use them for bottom painting my boat and servicing the centerboard.  The screw jacks look similar to the one in your photo.  The lifting force available at each jack is not enough to jack the boat up like you are proposing.  You might be able to increase the lifting force by using a piece of pipe on the collar as a ?cheater?.  But, that might damage the collar &/or the threads.  They are not designed to be used like that. Considering the amount of weight involved, I wouldn?t want to try it.

I jack up the boat and trailer using hydraulic bottle jacks and wooden blocks.  Then, I support the boat using the jack stands.  You need to be certain to chain the jack stands to each other so they can?t slide out when the load is applied.  I also put plywood under the jack stands so they can?t sink into the ground.  Once the jack stands are in place and secured, I lower the trailer out from under the boat to create enough clearance to bottom paint.  You can pull the wheels off the trailer to enable it to be lowered closer to the ground and give you a little more space under the boat.
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 6, 2023, at 9:02?PM, Charles Gabriel <charles.gabriel at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Has anyone tried anything like this?  "trailer mounted boat jacks"
> [image: 379947961_10060644193977367_3097177820137557601_n.jpg]
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/6530938920325484
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> Virus-free.http://www.avg.com/
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
>> On Fri, Oct 6, 2023 at 10:59?AM Chris on LBI <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:
>>
>> Hey all,
>>
>> Does anyone have any suggestions for how to apply bottom paint where the
>> trailer bunks interfere with access? I've been applying ablative bottom
>> paint every second year or so and it's been working well, but I do have
>> to scrape a lot of marine growth off the two unpainted stripes every 2
>> or 3 weeks during the season.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Chris
>>
>>
>
> --
> "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous
> by letting the American Government
> take care of him;
> better take a closer look at the American Indian."
> Henry Ford
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Sat Oct  7 09:36:55 2023
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2023 08:36:55 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Lake Winnebago, WI Cruise In The Summer of 2024
In-Reply-To: <97f9303fa7ef52813673462eda5789e3d267e648@webmail>
References: <97f9303fa7ef52813673462eda5789e3d267e648@webmail>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiVyPRYH_WQqNwsr_s4pEpQWXvZ+W_-TqrcxU0=tthyeGw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for a most interesting account of sailing on the lake. Lots of great
imagery. I?m sure Roger will find it helpful.
Chris Geankoplis
Xenos

On Fri, Oct 6, 2023 at 10:33 PM <jwiberg at wi.rr.com> wrote:

> Hi Roger,
>
> Sounds like a fun trip with the kiddos.
>
> I have been sailing my ?82 Rhodes 22 in Milwaukee Bay since 1990,
> but I grew up in Menasha on the north end of Lake Winnebago, boating
> on Lake Winnebago and the Fox River. I spent my high school and
> college years from the mid sixties through the mid seventies sailing
> and racing scows at both Neenah and Oshkosh. Tugs and coal barges were
> still using the lock and canal system in the fifties. When I was using
> the lock system in the seventies, it was still run by the Army Corps
> of Engineers. I haven?t used them since they were abandoned and
> reopened by a local group
>
> Lake Winnebago does not lend itself very well to spending a night on
> the hook. Nothing on the east shore at all. Anything other than a west
> wind will leaves no protected anchorages on the west shore. Asylum Bay
> or maybe tucking in behind Island Park (known locally as Garlic
> Island) are possibilities, but they?re both just north of Oshkosh,
> so probably too far from Menasha.
>
> The charted special anchorages, one in Oshkosh and two in Neenah, are
> actually mooring buoy fields managed by the two local yacht clubs,
> Oshkosh YC and Neenah-Nodaway YC. I don?t believe either club has
> transient moorings. The anchorage you're considering near the hospital
> is adjacent to a dam and spillway. When the dam gates are open, the
> current is quite strong. Much too dangerous to attempt anchoring.
>
> There is a small marina along the Government Canal in Menasha. It?s
> not far from the Menasha lock, they have transient slips, and there
> are several restaurants within walking distance.
>
> There is a reef across the entrance to the Fox River at Menasha. The
> best approach is from the south. My dad and I used to anchor our
> fishing boat at the north end of the reef to catch walleyes and it was
> always great fun to watch boats come flying in from the east and tear
> up their bottoms and lower units.
>
> One final thing. Beware the infamous Lake Winnebago cross chop. The
> lake is so shallow that winds in the 12 to15 knot range can whip up
> some pretty good waves that ricochet off the shores and come at you
> from all directions. In the 70?s, Oshkosh hosted an ILYA E Scow
> championship. One of the race days had 15 knot winds. The out of town
> PRO (small lake guy) said ?We always race in 15 knots?. The local
> crews said ?We?ll sit this one out?. It?s kind of awesome
> seeing what happens to a 30 foot mast when an E boat turtles in 20
> feet of water.
>
> Let me know If you have any more questions.
>
> John Wiberg
>
>         -----------------------------------------From: "ROGER PIHLAJA"
> To: "The Rhodes 22 Email List"
> Cc:
> Sent: Wednesday October 4 2023 4:21:50PM
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Lake Winnebago, WI Cruise In The Summer of
> 2024
>
>  Hi All,
>
>  Has anybody done any cruising on Lake Winnebago, WI?
>
>  Next summer, I'm planning to take my son, Gary, and two
> grandchildren, Kaley and Fred, on a cruise on Lake Winnebago, WI.
> Kaley will be 9 years and Fred will be 7 years old. This will be their
> first overnight boating experience. Lake Winnebago is in NE Wisconsin
> and at nearly 118,000 acres, is the largest inland lake in the state.
> We plan to launch and retrieve from High Cliff State Park in the NE
> corner of the lake. High Cliff State Park has several miles of easy
> hiking and biking trails along the Niagara Escarpment, the same rock
> cliff that forms Niagara Falls in NY state. Besides the cliffs with
> their stunning views of Lake Winnebago, there are ruins from lime
> quarrying and calcining operations to explore. High Cliff State Park
> has its own full service marina with reservable transient dockage and
> we plan to stay on the boat. Besides staying at the dock at High
> Cliff, I'm thinking I'd like to spend a night on the hook. There are
> special anchorages identified on the charts at Miller Bay in Oshkosh,
> WI and in the Lower Fox River on the S side of Doty Island, near the
> hospital in Neenah, WI. Does anyone have any local knowledge re either
> of these 2 anchorages? All else being equal, I would prefer anchoring
> off Doty Island because I want to take S/V Dynamic Equilibrium thru at
> least the Menasha Lock on the Lower Fox River and would really prefer
> to sail the length of Little Lake Butte Des Morts (Literally: Little
> Lake Cliff Of Death!) and lock thru Locks 1-4 in Appleton, WI. If I
> were to anchor in Miller Bay, I would have to sail several miles to
> get to the entrance to the Lower Fox River. In this scenario, there
> would probably only be time to do the Menasha Lock before turning
> around and sailing back to High Cliffs. Does anyone know of any other
> anchorages, especially near the N end of Lake Winnebago? Does anyone
> have any suggestions for kid friendly activities in Oshkosh, Neenah,
> &/or Appleton, WI? If we get to Appleton, I would especially
> appreciate a suggestion for a boat-up restaurant for lunch or dinner.
>
>  If Kaley and Fred like this cruise, in future years, we may attempt
> to cruise all 39 miles of the Lower Fox River from Lake Winnebago to
> Green Bay thru all 19 locks (a drop of ~170 ft!) and then do some
> cruising on Lower Green Bay. Just transiting the Lower Fox River with
> all the locks will require a whole day. Many of these locks are
> unusual in that they are hand operated, just like they were when
> originally installed in the 1850's. These locks are old school, no
> floating bollards like on the big US Army Corps Of Engineers locks on
> the western rivers. You have to have someone handling a line at each
> bollard as well as someone to fend off the walls and good fenders. The
> Lower Fox River lock system was actually the first public works
> project for the, then new, state of Wisconsin (admitted to the union
> in 1848). For a while, the Lower Fox River lock system greatly
> expanded economic activity in cities like Green Bay, Appleton, Neenah,
> and Oshkosh, WI. But, with the coming of trains and trucks to move
> cargo, the system fell into disuse and then disrepair. It has only
> recently been restored and reopened for recreational boating.
>
>  Roger Pihlaja
>  S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
>

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Mon Oct  9 10:28:37 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668 at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2023 10:28:37 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint - Trailer Bunks
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668368FE740091ACCF97143280C8A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683ED7D26DCA4566193671180CBA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <39d203ca-9d24-0bd6-e4bf-9f6936610ab2@vt.edu>
 <CABCtkXUJHnH0MNLRwOVpFgJtvUwvdhi8Cby_aTuymkYTvv0BKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668368FE740091ACCF97143280C8A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <001501d9fabc$e8249ed0$b86ddc70$@gmail.com>

Not a bad idea to pull the wheels anyway and check trailer brakes and bearings.

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA
Sent: Saturday, October 7, 2023 5:29 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Bottom Paint - Trailer Bunks

Charles,

I have 4 jack stands that sit on the ground.  I use them for bottom painting my boat and servicing the centerboard.  The screw jacks look similar to the one in your photo.  The lifting force available at each jack is not enough to jack the boat up like you are proposing.  You might be able to increase the lifting force by using a piece of pipe on the collar as a ?cheater?.  But, that might damage the collar &/or the threads.  They are not designed to be used like that. Considering the amount of weight involved, I wouldn?t want to try it.

I jack up the boat and trailer using hydraulic bottle jacks and wooden blocks.  Then, I support the boat using the jack stands.  You need to be certain to chain the jack stands to each other so they can?t slide out when the load is applied.  I also put plywood under the jack stands so they can?t sink into the ground.  Once the jack stands are in place and secured, I lower the trailer out from under the boat to create enough clearance to bottom paint.  You can pull the wheels off the trailer to enable it to be lowered closer to the ground and give you a little more space under the boat.
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 6, 2023, at 9:02?PM, Charles Gabriel <charles.gabriel at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Has anyone tried anything like this?  "trailer mounted boat jacks"
> [image: 379947961_10060644193977367_3097177820137557601_n.jpg]
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/6530938920325484
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&u
> tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> Virus-free.http://www.avg.com/
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&u
> tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
>> On Fri, Oct 6, 2023 at 10:59?AM Chris on LBI <cknell at vt.edu> wrote:
>>
>> Hey all,
>>
>> Does anyone have any suggestions for how to apply bottom paint where 
>> the trailer bunks interfere with access? I've been applying ablative 
>> bottom paint every second year or so and it's been working well, but 
>> I do have to scrape a lot of marine growth off the two unpainted 
>> stripes every 2 or 3 weeks during the season.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Chris
>>
>>
>
> --
> "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the 
> American Government take care of him; better take a closer look at the 
> American Indian."
> Henry Ford
> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was 
> scrubbed...
> Name: 379947961_10060644193977367_3097177820137557601_n.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 102251 bytes
> Desc: not available
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From thyatt at mica.edu  Mon Oct  9 20:10:47 2023
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2023 20:10:47 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rigging the main sheet
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2J_BoKBrjxaW4UuLUTYcp0vVtU9KnagptwGH5NFu6+Orw@mail.gmail.com>

The 1978 Rhodes 22 I bought in July was missing any sort of mainsheet
rigging. That is my next project to tackle. Has anyone seen an R22 rigged
with a traveler and mainsheet installed at the entrance to the passageway -
like some smaller Catalinas? It seems like an awkward place for it to be
but practical for handling the mainsheet.

I am a bit baffled when I look at pictures of R22s with travelers and
blocks rigged between the rear stays at the level of the stern rail. Can
someone explain the setup and hardware for that.

Thanks in advance.

Tom Hyatt
S/V Eliza Jane
Baltimore

From rweiss at siu.edu  Mon Oct  9 20:28:39 2023
From: rweiss at siu.edu (Weiss, Robert L)
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2023 00:28:39 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rigging the main sheet
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2J_BoKBrjxaW4UuLUTYcp0vVtU9KnagptwGH5NFu6+Orw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2J_BoKBrjxaW4UuLUTYcp0vVtU9KnagptwGH5NFu6+Orw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CH0PR07MB83782A68C96921BE3BE6F0B6C6CDA@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

The way the Rhodes 22 is rigged was a major selling point for me -- easy to single hand with the main sheet in the back instead of in the way of the cabin entrance. Main sheet attaches to the end of the boom and the traveler which is held between the two backstays. This photo is a little strange because of the wide angle, but you
can see where the lines run.

[cid:c4ef13ee-fcd6-4017-b8e9-3b628075485b]

Robert L Weiss Jr.
Director of Music
First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
Professor Emeritus, SIUC
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2023 7:10 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rigging the main sheet

[EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.

The 1978 Rhodes 22 I bought in July was missing any sort of mainsheet
rigging. That is my next project to tackle. Has anyone seen an R22 rigged
with a traveler and mainsheet installed at the entrance to the passageway -
like some smaller Catalinas? It seems like an awkward place for it to be
but practical for handling the mainsheet.

I am a bit baffled when I look at pictures of R22s with travelers and
blocks rigged between the rear stays at the level of the stern rail. Can
someone explain the setup and hardware for that.

Thanks in advance.

Tom Hyatt
S/V Eliza Jane
Baltimore
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From daysails at aol.com  Tue Oct 10 08:21:11 2023
From: daysails at aol.com (daysails at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2023 12:21:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Show
References: <2078785936.4356561.1696940471805.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2078785936.4356561.1696940471805@mail.yahoo.com>

I will be at the Annapolis Boat Show on Sunday and plan to stop by to say hello to Stan and the crew.? I will stand in as a volunteer salesman and greet the throng of on lookers all eager to become Rhodies. Is anyone else planning to attend?
Joe RileySecond Wind (Lake Hartwell)Athens Georgia

From thyatt at mica.edu  Tue Oct 10 09:14:31 2023
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2023 09:14:31 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Show
In-Reply-To: <2078785936.4356561.1696940471805@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2078785936.4356561.1696940471805.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2078785936.4356561.1696940471805@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2JbPaKXjwEiVyHSkYUM0hew94kEaDQ-Di9eCUABFCQTDQ@mail.gmail.com>

I?ll be there on Saturday

Tom Hyatt

On Tue, Oct 10, 2023 at 8:21 AM daysails--- via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I will be at the Annapolis Boat Show on Sunday and plan to stop by to say
> hello to Stan and the crew.  I will stand in as a volunteer salesman and
> greet the throng of on lookers all eager to become Rhodies. Is anyone else
> planning to attend?
> Joe RileySecond Wind (Lake Hartwell)Athens Georgia
>

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Tue Oct 10 09:37:13 2023
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2023 09:37:13 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
Message-ID: <45C8E96B-9356-49AB-BB1E-DCDE6AF50B5B@stottarchitecture.com>

HI Crew 
I have assembled all the parts for my IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. 
I have question about how the main sail furler lines are  run.
My 2nd hand boom has a loose  block at the aft end held by a small bail. 
I understand this is old-school and improved with a fixed turning block. 
Can someone take a picture of their fixed turning block at the back of the boom? 
Thanks in advance. 
Ric 
Dadventure 
Hampton Bays, NY 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164




From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Tue Oct 10 09:37:44 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2023 09:37:44 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rigging the main sheet
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2J_BoKBrjxaW4UuLUTYcp0vVtU9KnagptwGH5NFu6+Orw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2J_BoKBrjxaW4UuLUTYcp0vVtU9KnagptwGH5NFu6+Orw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMNRAd9+=6-Xm-WcrG=7FLdhDbgM-VxZU66iJjcq2JYGog@mail.gmail.com>

Tom,

The main sheet set up is the same as most main sheet or boom vang
configurations.

The connection to the end of the boom hasn't changed much over the years,
and is a tang hanging loosely from the end casting of the boom. Without
looking, I can't remember if its a 4 to1 or a 5 to 1 set-up.

The  traveler set-up has changed several times over the years though. The
earliest ones I've seen on the boats I've owned (a 1974, 1976 and my
present 1984) have/had a single wire going between the backstay chainplates
with enough slack to form in inverted V over the tiller. Riding on that
cable was a traveling block with a shackle to attach the lower block and
cam assembly of the main sheet tackle. Some, like my 1984 were rigged with
a second set of blocks captured on the backstays; below the backstay
tensioning blocks, as a rudimentary way to tow the mainsheet to windward.
The previous owner of my boat (Lloyd Crowther) just eliminated the inverted
V cable and simply used the line as a traveler (see pic)
They next version of traveler had a 1" SS tube set between stanchion caps
captured on the backstays where the older version blocks were. This type of
tube traveler was used for many years.
The final version of the traveller is the one Robert has pictured. There
was a year of so just before that Stan had a couple of failed attempts
before settling on Robert's model.

I will try to post pics this evening of the otherversions/styles of
travelers.

But what if anything, do you have now?

Todd T

On Mon, Oct 9, 2023, 8:11 PM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> The 1978 Rhodes 22 I bought in July was missing any sort of mainsheet
> rigging. That is my next project to tackle. Has anyone seen an R22 rigged
> with a traveler and mainsheet installed at the entrance to the passageway -
> like some smaller Catalinas? It seems like an awkward place for it to be
> but practical for handling the mainsheet.
>
> I am a bit baffled when I look at pictures of R22s with travelers and
> blocks rigged between the rear stays at the level of the stern rail. Can
> someone explain the setup and hardware for that.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane
> Baltimore
>
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From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Tue Oct 10 11:43:48 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2023 11:43:48 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Used 130 Genoa
Message-ID: <B8011B2B-5D04-4933-9697-4E4413037DCA@gmail.com>

Wondering if anyone might have a used Genoa in the 130 range. Thanks

From rlowe at vt.edu  Tue Oct 10 13:24:52 2023
From: rlowe at vt.edu (Lowe, Rob)
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2023 17:24:52 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rigging the main sheet
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2J_BoKBrjxaW4UuLUTYcp0vVtU9KnagptwGH5NFu6+Orw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2J_BoKBrjxaW4UuLUTYcp0vVtU9KnagptwGH5NFu6+Orw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR05MB698543FD90FB46510A73346EC1CDA@DM6PR05MB6985.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

Tom,
Attached are some photos I've posted before of the rigging on my old '76 Rhodes with the standard main and the old style rigging.  See if these help.  Please note the bungie cords are not part of the setup, the topping lift should be attached to the boom where the bungee cords are.

Rob



-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2023 8:11 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rigging the main sheet

The 1978 Rhodes 22 I bought in July was missing any sort of mainsheet rigging. That is my next project to tackle. Has anyone seen an R22 rigged with a traveler and mainsheet installed at the entrance to the passageway - like some smaller Catalinas? It seems like an awkward place for it to be but practical for handling the mainsheet.

I am a bit baffled when I look at pictures of R22s with travelers and blocks rigged between the rear stays at the level of the stern rail. Can someone explain the setup and hardware for that.

Thanks in advance.

Tom Hyatt
S/V Eliza Jane
Baltimore
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From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Wed Oct 11 09:51:56 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 09:51:56 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
In-Reply-To: <45C8E96B-9356-49AB-BB1E-DCDE6AF50B5B@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <6526a884.920a0220.9007d.03ee@mx.google.com>

Hope this helps. Note that old style traveller was still in use.i upgraded to the newer style in 2019.Joe DempseyTrojan 42?M/V VoyagerFormer Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> Date: 10/10/23  9:37 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging HI Crew I have assembled all the parts for my IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. I have question about how the main sail furler lines are? run.My 2nd hand boom has a loose? block at the aft end held by a small bail. I understand this is old-school and improved with a fixed turning block. Can someone take a picture of their fixed turning block at the back of the boom? Thanks in advance. Ric Dadventure Hampton Bays, NY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP ric at stottarchitecture.comO -631-283-1777C- 516-965-3164
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From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Wed Oct 11 10:24:38 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 10:24:38 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
In-Reply-To: <6526a884.920a0220.9007d.03ee@mx.google.com>
References: <45C8E96B-9356-49AB-BB1E-DCDE6AF50B5B@stottarchitecture.com>
 <6526a884.920a0220.9007d.03ee@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMPVNGow1G-uw=tWBEDyQ688xzb5t0138xZDeerqNwJgpQ@mail.gmail.com>

Joe,

Do you still have the old traveler; car and bar?

Todd T.

On Wed, Oct 11, 2023, 9:52 AM jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hope this helps. Note that old style traveller was still in use.i upgraded
> to the newer style in 2019.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 M/V VoyagerFormer Rhodes
> 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G
> smartphone
> -------- Original message --------From: Ric Stott <
> ric at stottarchitecture.com> Date: 10/10/23  9:37 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: The
> Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject:
> [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging HI Crew I have assembled all the parts for my
> IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. I have question about how
> the main sail furler lines are  run.My 2nd hand boom has a loose  block at
> the aft end held by a small bail. I understand this is old-school and
> improved with a fixed turning block. Can someone take a picture of their
> fixed turning block at the back of the boom? Thanks in advance. Ric
> Dadventure Hampton Bays, NY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> ric at stottarchitecture.comO -631-283-1777C- 516-965-3164
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> >
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Wed Oct 11 11:31:37 2023
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 10:31:37 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Show
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2JbPaKXjwEiVyHSkYUM0hew94kEaDQ-Di9eCUABFCQTDQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2078785936.4356561.1696940471805.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2078785936.4356561.1696940471805@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAEhtY2JbPaKXjwEiVyHSkYUM0hew94kEaDQ-Di9eCUABFCQTDQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiXkaNhwh+MpOY3gxj01zNvQHkPnq6Bbbv0sxOahO1UVXA@mail.gmail.com>

After much anticipation, I now have to be in Columbus that weekend. Darn.
Best regards to all of you. I?ll be available to any interested parties
with questions about cruising the Rhodes. Feel free to pass out my email.
Chris Geankoplis
Xenos.

On Tue, Oct 10, 2023 at 8:14 AM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I?ll be there on Saturday
>
> Tom Hyatt
>
> On Tue, Oct 10, 2023 at 8:21 AM daysails--- via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > I will be at the Annapolis Boat Show on Sunday and plan to stop by to say
> > hello to Stan and the crew.  I will stand in as a volunteer salesman and
> > greet the throng of on lookers all eager to become Rhodies. Is anyone
> else
> > planning to attend?
> > Joe RileySecond Wind (Lake Hartwell)Athens Georgia
> >
>

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Wed Oct 11 11:42:20 2023
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 11:42:20 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
In-Reply-To: <6526a884.920a0220.9007d.03ee@mx.google.com>
References: <6526a884.920a0220.9007d.03ee@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <7779830C-896A-4241-9D3C-A12D7D1ACAAA@stottarchitecture.com>

Thanks - it helps some, but I can?t see the  turning block at the end of the boom.
Is it a fixed block or is it attached to a small bail? 
R 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Oct 11, 2023, at 9:51 AM, jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hope this helps. Note that old style traveller was still in use.i upgraded to the newer style in 2019.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 M/V VoyagerFormer Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
> -------- Original message --------From: Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> Date: 10/10/23  9:37 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging HI Crew I have assembled all the parts for my IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. I have question about how the main sail furler lines are  run.My 2nd hand boom has a loose  block at the aft end held by a small bail. I understand this is old-school and improved with a fixed turning block. Can someone take a picture of their fixed turning block at the back of the boom? Thanks in advance. Ric Dadventure Hampton Bays, NY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP ric at stottarchitecture.comO -631-283-1777C- 516-965-3164
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From dgworth3 at icloud.com  Wed Oct 11 13:17:09 2023
From: dgworth3 at icloud.com (David Worth)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 13:17:09 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
Message-ID: <25D3E56F-E44D-4300-BE19-C3ED19E19CA3@icloud.com>

Is anyone going to be there.  Would like to meet and discuss. 

Dave Worth
1993 Rhodes 22
Havre de grace, Md


David Gaston Worth
120 W Lemon St
Lititz, PA 17543
717-715-7879
dgworth3 at icloud.com

From stan at generalboats.com  Wed Oct 11 14:41:12 2023
From: stan at generalboats.com (Stan Spitzer)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 14:41:12 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
In-Reply-To: <25D3E56F-E44D-4300-BE19-C3ED19E19CA3@icloud.com>
References: <25D3E56F-E44D-4300-BE19-C3ED19E19CA3@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <31cf2da2-f5b5-9e1f-5e76-f0b6857d1bca@generalboats.com>

Yes I will be there.? Looking forward to seeing all that will come

On 10/11/23 1:17 PM, David Worth via Rhodes22-list wrote:
> Is anyone going to be there.  Would like to meet and discuss.
>
> Dave Worth
> 1993 Rhodes 22
> Havre de grace, Md
>
>
> David Gaston Worth
> 120 W Lemon St
> Lititz, PA 17543
> 717-715-7879
> dgworth3 at icloud.com

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Oct 11 17:47:23 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 17:47:23 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
In-Reply-To: <31cf2da2-f5b5-9e1f-5e76-f0b6857d1bca@generalboats.com>
References: <25D3E56F-E44D-4300-BE19-C3ED19E19CA3@icloud.com>
 <31cf2da2-f5b5-9e1f-5e76-f0b6857d1bca@generalboats.com>
Message-ID: <002201d9fc8c$85bbf910$9133eb30$@ebsmed.com>

I plan to attend the show on Saturday afternoon. The weather is not cooperating according to weather.com:

" Periods of rain. Potential for heavy rainfall. High 61F. Winds ESE at 5 to 10 mph. Chance of rain 100%. Rainfall near a half an inch."

5 to 10 mph winds make great demo sailing possibilities if the rain isn't too heavy. Maybe somebody will want to see how well a Rhodes 22 weather helm responds.

Well, it is an "in-the-water" show ... 

Hopefully the piers won't flood out. Annapolis is starting to remind me of Venice, Italy.

My wife plans to look at a few of the larger crafts if the rain gets real bad. Just don't tell the sales people that you are thinking of upgrading from a Rhodes 22. They will know that you are not a potential client.

Time to try out my foul weather gear, again.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Stan Spitzer
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2023 2:41 PM
To: David Worth <dgworth3 at icloud.com>; The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK

Yes I will be there.  Looking forward to seeing all that will come

On 10/11/23 1:17 PM, David Worth via Rhodes22-list wrote:
> Is anyone going to be there.  Would like to meet and discuss.
>
> Dave Worth
> 1993 Rhodes 22
> Havre de grace, Md
>
>
> David Gaston Worth
> 120 W Lemon St
> Lititz, PA 17543
> 717-715-7879
> dgworth3 at icloud.com


From thyatt at mica.edu  Wed Oct 11 18:18:31 2023
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 18:18:31 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
In-Reply-To: <002201d9fc8c$85bbf910$9133eb30$@ebsmed.com>
References: <25D3E56F-E44D-4300-BE19-C3ED19E19CA3@icloud.com>
 <31cf2da2-f5b5-9e1f-5e76-f0b6857d1bca@generalboats.com>
 <002201d9fc8c$85bbf910$9133eb30$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2KQJYG7=q_3FwQAJJTa7Cvo1qzdjx3PTNnh8ghdbb2ySQ@mail.gmail.com>

I will be there on Saturday at around one pm. I hope to talk with Stan and
meet other Rhodes owners. Stan?where will you be so that I can find you?
Will there be a Rhodes 22 on display anywhere ?

Tom Hyatt
S/V Eliza Jane 1978
Baltimore

On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 5:47 PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> I plan to attend the show on Saturday afternoon. The weather is not
> cooperating according to weather.com:
>
> " Periods of rain. Potential for heavy rainfall. High 61F. Winds ESE at 5
> to 10 mph. Chance of rain 100%. Rainfall near a half an inch."
>
> 5 to 10 mph winds make great demo sailing possibilities if the rain isn't
> too heavy. Maybe somebody will want to see how well a Rhodes 22 weather
> helm responds.
>
> Well, it is an "in-the-water" show ...
>
> Hopefully the piers won't flood out. Annapolis is starting to remind me of
> Venice, Italy.
>
> My wife plans to look at a few of the larger crafts if the rain gets real
> bad. Just don't tell the sales people that you are thinking of upgrading
> from a Rhodes 22. They will know that you are not a potential client.
>
> Time to try out my foul weather gear, again.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Stan Spitzer
> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2023 2:41 PM
> To: David Worth <dgworth3 at icloud.com>; The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
>
> Yes I will be there.  Looking forward to seeing all that will come
>
> On 10/11/23 1:17 PM, David Worth via Rhodes22-list wrote:
> > Is anyone going to be there.  Would like to meet and discuss.
> >
> > Dave Worth
> > 1993 Rhodes 22
> > Havre de grace, Md
> >
> >
> > David Gaston Worth
> > 120 W Lemon St
> > Lititz, PA 17543
> > 717-715-7879
> > dgworth3 at icloud.com
>
>

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Oct 11 19:33:48 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 19:33:48 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2KQJYG7=q_3FwQAJJTa7Cvo1qzdjx3PTNnh8ghdbb2ySQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <25D3E56F-E44D-4300-BE19-C3ED19E19CA3@icloud.com>
 <31cf2da2-f5b5-9e1f-5e76-f0b6857d1bca@generalboats.com>
 <002201d9fc8c$85bbf910$9133eb30$@ebsmed.com>
 <CAEhtY2KQJYG7=q_3FwQAJJTa7Cvo1qzdjx3PTNnh8ghdbb2ySQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003501d9fc9b$63d675f0$2b8361d0$@ebsmed.com>

The Rhodes 22 (General Boats) exhibit is at Land 61 & 62. See the attached images. 

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2023 6:19 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK

I will be there on Saturday at around one pm. I hope to talk with Stan and meet other Rhodes owners. Stan?where will you be so that I can find you?
Will there be a Rhodes 22 on display anywhere ?

Tom Hyatt
S/V Eliza Jane 1978
Baltimore

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From thyatt at mica.edu  Wed Oct 11 19:49:19 2023
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 19:49:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
In-Reply-To: <003501d9fc9b$63d675f0$2b8361d0$@ebsmed.com>
References: <25D3E56F-E44D-4300-BE19-C3ED19E19CA3@icloud.com>
 <31cf2da2-f5b5-9e1f-5e76-f0b6857d1bca@generalboats.com>
 <002201d9fc8c$85bbf910$9133eb30$@ebsmed.com>
 <CAEhtY2KQJYG7=q_3FwQAJJTa7Cvo1qzdjx3PTNnh8ghdbb2ySQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <003501d9fc9b$63d675f0$2b8361d0$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2J7rctmz8UKUmjhzVX=nJXGuSDJXp4SU6ftXY4Z7AdBMg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the info. I'll be there on Saturday. Looking forward to meeting
Stan and other Rhodes owners.

Tom Hyatt

On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 7:33?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> The Rhodes 22 (General Boats) exhibit is at Land 61 & 62. See the attached
> images.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Tom
> Hyatt via Rhodes22-list
> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2023 6:19 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
>
> I will be there on Saturday at around one pm. I hope to talk with Stan and
> meet other Rhodes owners. Stan?where will you be so that I can find you?
> Will there be a Rhodes 22 on display anywhere ?
>
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane 1978
> Baltimore
>
>

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Wed Oct 11 20:20:00 2023
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 17:20:00 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
In-Reply-To: <7779830C-896A-4241-9D3C-A12D7D1ACAAA@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <6526a884.920a0220.9007d.03ee@mx.google.com>
 <7779830C-896A-4241-9D3C-A12D7D1ACAAA@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+B2wZq=p3TAVbDPLhNpGm7SGMJbiTwxicr00yuJEusfLg@mail.gmail.com>

Ric,
I don't have any pics of the furling line and I am not near the boat, but
thinking about it I don't think I have any block or bail.  Just a couple of
small cleats along the bottom or side,  one near then end another closer to
the mast so when the line is all the way out I wrap it and cleat it.  When
sail is furled cleated off too.  Maybe others are different.  I have a few
pics. of outhauls I could send, mostly the "new" through boom version.
Patrick


On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 8:42?AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:

> Thanks - it helps some, but I can?t see the  turning block at the end of
> the boom.
> Is it a fixed block or is it attached to a small bail?
> R
>
> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> ric at stottarchitecture.com
> O -631-283-1777
> C- 516-965-3164
>
>
>
> > On Oct 11, 2023, at 9:51 AM, jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hope this helps. Note that old style traveller was still in use.i
> upgraded to the newer style in 2019.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 M/V VoyagerFormer
> Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an
> AT&T 5G smartphone
> > -------- Original message --------From: Ric Stott <
> ric at stottarchitecture.com> Date: 10/10/23  9:37 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: The
> Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject:
> [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging HI Crew I have assembled all the parts for my
> IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. I have question about how
> the main sail furler lines are  run.My 2nd hand boom has a loose  block at
> the aft end held by a small bail. I understand this is old-school and
> improved with a fixed turning block. Can someone take a picture of their
> fixed turning block at the back of the boom? Thanks in advance. Ric
> Dadventure Hampton Bays, NY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> ric at stottarchitecture.comO -631-283-1777C- 516-965-3164
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> > Size: 114761 bytes
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> > URL: <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231011/175fe4be/attachment.jpg
> >
>
>

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Wed Oct 11 20:31:25 2023
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 17:31:25 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+B2wZq=p3TAVbDPLhNpGm7SGMJbiTwxicr00yuJEusfLg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6526a884.920a0220.9007d.03ee@mx.google.com>
 <7779830C-896A-4241-9D3C-A12D7D1ACAAA@stottarchitecture.com>
 <CAJGJx+B2wZq=p3TAVbDPLhNpGm7SGMJbiTwxicr00yuJEusfLg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+BRK8V=wpHDiEiUMTH_Hf4uSY2XEOUbyuRmEW0maCgGug@mail.gmail.com>

Upon further consideration I think I installed a jam cleat on the side of
the boom to assist when main is partially furled..

On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 5:20?PM PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:

> Ric,
> I don't have any pics of the furling line and I am not near the boat, but
> thinking about it I don't think I have any block or bail.  Just a couple of
> small cleats along the bottom or side,  one near then end another closer to
> the mast so when the line is all the way out I wrap it and cleat it.  When
> sail is furled cleated off too.  Maybe others are different.  I have a few
> pics. of outhauls I could send, mostly the "new" through boom version.
> Patrick
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 8:42?AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks - it helps some, but I can?t see the  turning block at the end of
>> the boom.
>> Is it a fixed block or is it attached to a small bail?
>> R
>>
>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>> O -631-283-1777
>> C- 516-965-3164
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Oct 11, 2023, at 9:51 AM, jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hope this helps. Note that old style traveller was still in use.i
>> upgraded to the newer style in 2019.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 M/V VoyagerFormer
>> Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an
>> AT&T 5G smartphone
>> > -------- Original message --------From: Ric Stott <
>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> Date: 10/10/23  9:37 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: The
>> Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject:
>> [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging HI Crew I have assembled all the parts for my
>> IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. I have question about how
>> the main sail furler lines are  run.My 2nd hand boom has a loose  block at
>> the aft end held by a small bail. I understand this is old-school and
>> improved with a fixed turning block. Can someone take a picture of their
>> fixed turning block at the back of the boom? Thanks in advance. Ric
>> Dadventure Hampton Bays, NY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> ric at stottarchitecture.comO -631-283-1777C- 516-965-3164
>> > -------------- next part --------------
>> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> > Name: 1617235829287.jpg
>> > Type: image/jpeg
>> > Size: 114761 bytes
>> > Desc: not available
>> > URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231011/175fe4be/attachment.jpg
>> >
>>
>>

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Wed Oct 11 20:50:49 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 20:50:49 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+B2wZq=p3TAVbDPLhNpGm7SGMJbiTwxicr00yuJEusfLg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <652742ee.920a0220.581e4.0b1c@mx.google.com>

Not sure what a turni g block is but the fiddle block is attached to the bale on the end of the boomJoe DempseyTrojan 42M/V VoyagerFormer Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> Date: 10/11/23  8:20 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging Ric,I don't have any pics of the furling line and I am not near the boat, butthinking about it I don't think I have any block or bail.? Just a couple ofsmall cleats along the bottom or side,? one near then end another closer tothe mast so when the line is all the way out I wrap it and cleat it.? Whensail is furled cleated off too.? Maybe others are different.? I have a fewpics. of outhauls I could send, mostly the "new" through boom version.PatrickOn Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 8:42?AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:> Thanks - it helps some, but I can?t see the? turning block at the end of> the boom.> Is it a fixed block or is it attached to a small bail?> R>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP> ric at stottarchitecture.com> O -631-283-1777> C- 516-965-3164>>>> > On Oct 11, 2023, at 9:51 AM, jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:> >> > Hope this helps. Note that old style traveller was still in use.i> upgraded to the newer style in 2019.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 M/V VoyagerFormer> Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an> AT&T 5G smartphone> > -------- Original message --------From: Ric Stott <> ric at stottarchitecture.com> Date: 10/10/23? 9:37 AM? (GMT-05:00) To: The> Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject:> [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging HI Crew I have assembled all the parts for my> IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. I have question about how> the main sail furler lines are? run.My 2nd hand boom has a loose? block at> the aft end held by a small bail. I understand this is old-school and> improved with a fixed turning block. Can someone take a picture of their> fixed turning block at the back of the boom? Thanks in advance. Ric> Dadventure Hampton Bays, NY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP> ric at stottarchitecture.comO -631-283-1777C- 516-965-3164> > -------------- next part --------------> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> > Name: 1617235829287.jpg> > Type: image/jpeg> > Size: 114761 bytes> > Desc: not available> > URL: <> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231011/175fe4be/attachment.jpg> >>>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 11 22:26:21 2023
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2023 02:26:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
References: <1562569741.4678303.1697077581802.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1562569741.4678303.1697077581802@mail.yahoo.com>

I plan to attend Friday and Saturday.? Looking forward to meeting Stan and any Rhodies who are about.
Peter Beckerman.

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Thu Oct 12 07:55:38 2023
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2023 07:55:38 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+B2wZq=p3TAVbDPLhNpGm7SGMJbiTwxicr00yuJEusfLg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B2wZq=p3TAVbDPLhNpGm7SGMJbiTwxicr00yuJEusfLg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <28104705-9FAB-413E-BA6B-4E514ABFF91A@stottarchitecture.com>

Thanks Patrick. Charles Gabriel sent me the pic I need. 
Ric

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 11, 2023, at 8:20 PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Ric,
> I don't have any pics of the furling line and I am not near the boat, but
> thinking about it I don't think I have any block or bail.  Just a couple of
> small cleats along the bottom or side,  one near then end another closer to
> the mast so when the line is all the way out I wrap it and cleat it.  When
> sail is furled cleated off too.  Maybe others are different.  I have a few
> pics. of outhauls I could send, mostly the "new" through boom version.
> Patrick
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 8:42?AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks - it helps some, but I can?t see the  turning block at the end of
>> the boom.
>> Is it a fixed block or is it attached to a small bail?
>> R
>> 
>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>> O -631-283-1777
>> C- 516-965-3164
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>>> On Oct 11, 2023, at 9:51 AM, jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hope this helps. Note that old style traveller was still in use.i
>> upgraded to the newer style in 2019.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 M/V VoyagerFormer
>> Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an
>> AT&T 5G smartphone
>>> -------- Original message --------From: Ric Stott <
>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> Date: 10/10/23  9:37 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: The
>> Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject:
>> [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging HI Crew I have assembled all the parts for my
>> IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. I have question about how
>> the main sail furler lines are  run.My 2nd hand boom has a loose  block at
>> the aft end held by a small bail. I understand this is old-school and
>> improved with a fixed turning block. Can someone take a picture of their
>> fixed turning block at the back of the boom? Thanks in advance. Ric
>> Dadventure Hampton Bays, NY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> ric at stottarchitecture.comO -631-283-1777C- 516-965-3164
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: 1617235829287.jpg
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 114761 bytes
>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231011/175fe4be/attachment.jpg
>>> 
>> 
>> 

From michael.4591 at gmail.com  Thu Oct 12 08:18:01 2023
From: michael.4591 at gmail.com (Michael Corley)
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2023 08:18:01 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Show
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiXkaNhwh+MpOY3gxj01zNvQHkPnq6Bbbv0sxOahO1UVXA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2078785936.4356561.1696940471805.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2078785936.4356561.1696940471805@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAEhtY2JbPaKXjwEiVyHSkYUM0hew94kEaDQ-Di9eCUABFCQTDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiXkaNhwh+MpOY3gxj01zNvQHkPnq6Bbbv0sxOahO1UVXA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACSd1j+RxPZuZgs0c+UNugjAtF2TLmZYX9zUzxtxjtY5KTF-oQ@mail.gmail.com>

I will be there today thru Sunday.  Look forward to seeing all the Rhodies
and spending time with Stan.  Your help is definitely appreciated.

-Mike
99 Rhodes
Hampton Roads, VA.

On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 11:31?AM Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
wrote:

> After much anticipation, I now have to be in Columbus that weekend. Darn.
> Best regards to all of you. I?ll be available to any interested parties
> with questions about cruising the Rhodes. Feel free to pass out my email.
> Chris Geankoplis
> Xenos.
>
> On Tue, Oct 10, 2023 at 8:14 AM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > I?ll be there on Saturday
> >
> > Tom Hyatt
> >
> > On Tue, Oct 10, 2023 at 8:21 AM daysails--- via Rhodes22-list <
> > rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> >
> > > I will be at the Annapolis Boat Show on Sunday and plan to stop by to
> say
> > > hello to Stan and the crew.  I will stand in as a volunteer salesman
> and
> > > greet the throng of on lookers all eager to become Rhodies. Is anyone
> > else
> > > planning to attend?
> > > Joe RileySecond Wind (Lake Hartwell)Athens Georgia
> > >
> >
>

From charles.gabriel at gmail.com  Thu Oct 12 12:12:46 2023
From: charles.gabriel at gmail.com (Charles Gabriel)
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2023 12:12:46 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Annapolis 2023
Message-ID: <CABCtkXUEi5mt4hUwWDr=bBgkM6aeV5r014zRV_Q1BeBjeArarw@mail.gmail.com>

Good Morning from Annapolis.
Looking forward to seeing you all!
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From bgarrant at gmail.com  Sat Oct 14 08:56:57 2023
From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant)
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2023 08:56:57 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] R22 Owners in Baltimore Area?
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2+sgVfgr3phxdLbj8muq8pNhruO7OjXxqtnKVQV376pXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2+sgVfgr3phxdLbj8muq8pNhruO7OjXxqtnKVQV376pXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPi3tBC7mVUMR6Ws6iu0te2V+rmD0hU8vULO4DCXjNnNF1QQQQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Tom,
I'm not able to attend the Sailboat Show this year.
I keep my boat on Kent Island. As of yesterday, October 13th, the
'odometer' on my Garmin indicated that I have sailed over 1300 nautical
miles in the last 4 years on the Chester River and the Bay.
The folks at the show likely have decades more experience than I have with
this amazing vessel. But I may be able to offer some insight about sailing
the Rhodes in our area.
Regards,
Bob Garrant
s/v Sail la Vie 2000/2017
bgarrant at gmail.com

On Thu, Sep 7, 2023 at 9:51?AM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I'm looking for Rhodes 22 owners in the Baltimore area. As a new Rhodes 22
> owner, I have lots of questions about various aspects of the Rhodes. If you
> would be willing to share some of your knowledge, let me know. We could
> meetup for coffee or a drink.
>
> FYI, I have my boat at the Maryland Marina in Bowleys Quarters. I know
> there is at least one R22 owner who puts in there because they were the
> inspiration for my choosing a Rhodes in the first place. I just have not
> been able to locate them after that initial meeting.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane
> 1978
>

From jayf401 at gmail.com  Sat Oct 14 09:33:28 2023
From: jayf401 at gmail.com (Jay Friedland)
Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2023 09:33:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] R22 Owners in Baltimore Area?
In-Reply-To: <001401d9e1af$615001e0$23f005a0$@ebsmed.com>
References: <CAEhtY2+sgVfgr3phxdLbj8muq8pNhruO7OjXxqtnKVQV376pXQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001401d9e1af$615001e0$23f005a0$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <583DCA54-D523-4989-9FD0-B7218FB705DB@gmail.com>

Folks,
I saw Stan last year, but unable to make it this year. Just a simple request- if there are any highlights or things of interest, or how Stan is doing, that you can convey to those who couldn?t make it, it would be greatly appreciated.

Jay Friedland
S/V Wanderlust, ?97

> On Sep 7, 2023, at 1:18?PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
> 
> Come join us at the 2023 Annapolis Sailboat Show at City Dock & Harbor, 1 Dock Street, Annapolis, MD 21401 (https://secure.interactiveticketing.com/1.39/a0c9f1/#/select)
> 
> We will be at the Rhodes 22 exhibit. Talk to Rhodies and Stan!
> 
> The show hours are:
> 
> 	October 12-15, 2023
> 
> 	Thursday: 10:00am - 6:30pm
> 	Friday: 10:00am - 6:30pm
> 	Saturday: 10:00am - 6:30pm
> 	Sunday: 10:00am - 5:00pm
> 
> I plan to be there on Saturday.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list
> Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2023 9:51 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] R22 Owners in Baltimore Area?
> 
> I'm looking for Rhodes 22 owners in the Baltimore area. As a new Rhodes 22 owner, I have lots of questions about various aspects of the Rhodes. If you would be willing to share some of your knowledge, let me know. We could meetup for coffee or a drink.
> 
> FYI, I have my boat at the Maryland Marina in Bowleys Quarters. I know there is at least one R22 owner who puts in there because they were the inspiration for my choosing a Rhodes in the first place. I just have not been able to locate them after that initial meeting.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane
> 1978
> 


From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Oct 18 08:55:29 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 07:55:29 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
Message-ID: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello everyone,

I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
charge.

Many thanks,
Matt Wilson
Hornblower II
White Bear Lake, MN

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Oct 18 11:29:03 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 15:29:03 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB668323B4197B81E172A995C880D5A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Matt,

Assuming you have a trailer with bunks; then, the water needs to be deep enough to almost submerge the front of the bunks.  I like to leave about 12? of bunks showing above the water.  Then, you just line up the bow in between the bunks and motor dead slow onto the trailer.  The underwater guides will center the keel as the boat comes up onto the trailer.  The bunks will stop the boat a few inches shy of the bow stop.  I leave the engine running in forward with the fuel line disconnected.  While the outboard is using up the fuel in the carburetor I center the tiller, lock it, and raise the rudder blade.  Then, I walk to the bow, climb off onto the trailer, and attach the bow line.  I winch the boat up until the bow is touching the bow stop or as close as I can get it.  Then, I lock the winch and attach the safety line.  After that, I walk to the tow vehicle.  About now, the outboard engine stalls from lack of fuel.  I get into the tow vehicle and drive up the ramp.  At the top of the ramp, I brake sharply.  This causes the boat to slide forward on the bunks up hard against the bow stop.  You want to do this right away while the boat and bunks are wet and slippery.  I get out and winch in any slack in the bow line and retighten the safety line.  If the boat has not slid forward enough, I drive forward again and slam on the brakes and keep doing that until the boat is far enough forward.  Usually, the first hard stop is sufficient.  Then, I drive over to the rigging area and start preparing the boat to go down the road.  The whole thing takes less than 5 minutes from when I first approach the trailer.

For most ramps, this technique requires the use of the tongue extension.

If the ramp has a very gradual slope; then, submerge the bunks until just the front tip of the bunks are showing above the water.  Be prepared to gun the outboard to shove the boat up the last foot onto the bunks.  What will happen is the midsection of the hull and the keel will contact the trailer a little sooner than desired, stopping the boat a little too far aft on the trailer.  Full throttle and the bow winch will usually get the boat far enough forward on the trailer.  Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to drive up the ramp until the bow is up against the bow stop.  The boat is so heavy; that, even a few inches of misplacement will seriously unbalance the trailer.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hello everyone,
> 
> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
> knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
> perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
> the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
> charge.
> 
> Many thanks,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Wed Oct 18 11:57:46 2023
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 11:57:46 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT5BEikuSLXN4LV7FZF6Yntmr6GE3jw=uPqodO5xXJnKPg@mail.gmail.com>

You need enough depth to just cover the bunks.

Graham Stewart
Agile 76


On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 8:55?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
> knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
> perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
> the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
> charge.
>
> Many thanks,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
>

From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Oct 18 13:40:50 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 12:40:50 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668323B4197B81E172A995C880D5A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668323B4197B81E172A995C880D5A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCs5XgkdxXDKyO0JVpismq_KZgOSP8Y_xeXY-wZm1UH8Yw@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you Grahm and Roger!  Sound like I need at least 3? of water to be
successful.  Our lake has dropped quite a bit the ramp closest to my house
may only be about that deep. Hearing all of this really helps!
Matt

On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 11:07 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi Matt,
>
> Assuming you have a trailer with bunks; then, the water needs to be deep
> enough to almost submerge the front of the bunks.  I like to leave about
> 12? of bunks showing above the water.  Then, you just line up the bow in
> between the bunks and motor dead slow onto the trailer.  The underwater
> guides will center the keel as the boat comes up onto the trailer.  The
> bunks will stop the boat a few inches shy of the bow stop.  I leave the
> engine running in forward with the fuel line disconnected.  While the
> outboard is using up the fuel in the carburetor I center the tiller, lock
> it, and raise the rudder blade.  Then, I walk to the bow, climb off onto
> the trailer, and attach the bow line.  I winch the boat up until the bow is
> touching the bow stop or as close as I can get it.  Then, I lock the winch
> and attach the safety line.  After that, I walk to the tow vehicle.  About
> now, the outboard engine stalls from lack of fuel.  I get into the tow
> vehicle and drive up the ramp.  At the top of the ramp, I brake sharply.
> This causes the boat to slide forward on the bunks up hard against the bow
> stop.  You want to do this right away while the boat and bunks are wet and
> slippery.  I get out and winch in any slack in the bow line and retighten
> the safety line.  If the boat has not slid forward enough, I drive forward
> again and slam on the brakes and keep doing that until the boat is far
> enough forward.  Usually, the first hard stop is sufficient.  Then, I drive
> over to the rigging area and start preparing the boat to go down the road.
> The whole thing takes less than 5 minutes from when I first approach the
> trailer.
>
> For most ramps, this technique requires the use of the tongue extension.
>
> If the ramp has a very gradual slope; then, submerge the bunks until just
> the front tip of the bunks are showing above the water.  Be prepared to gun
> the outboard to shove the boat up the last foot onto the bunks.  What will
> happen is the midsection of the hull and the keel will contact the trailer
> a little sooner than desired, stopping the boat a little too far aft on the
> trailer.  Full throttle and the bow winch will usually get the boat far
> enough forward on the trailer.  Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to
> drive up the ramp until the bow is up against the bow stop.  The boat is so
> heavy; that, even a few inches of misplacement will seriously unbalance the
> trailer.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hello everyone,
> >
> > I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
> > knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
> > perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
> > the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
> > charge.
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > Matt Wilson
> > Hornblower II
> > White Bear Lake, MN
>

From bgarrant at gmail.com  Wed Oct 18 14:14:56 2023
From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 14:14:56 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668323B4197B81E172A995C880D5A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668323B4197B81E172A995C880D5A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAPi3tBContcM-po-VbwDVsBSfqvab4-NztCrmYAoVx_dVAinYQ@mail.gmail.com>

Roger
I bought my Rhodes in 2017 and it stayed in the water for two seasons
before I got a trailer and hauled it out for the winter. Since then I?ve
hauled it out at the end of every season.
I wish I had asked the haul out question back then.
I?ve always been guessing about how to get it seated against the bow stop.
The explanation was exactly what I needed
Thanks very much

Bob
s/v Sail la Vie


On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 12:07?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi Matt,
>
> Assuming you have a trailer with bunks; then, the water needs to be deep
> enough to almost submerge the front of the bunks.  I like to leave about
> 12? of bunks showing above the water.  Then, you just line up the bow in
> between the bunks and motor dead slow onto the trailer.  The underwater
> guides will center the keel as the boat comes up onto the trailer.  The
> bunks will stop the boat a few inches shy of the bow stop.  I leave the
> engine running in forward with the fuel line disconnected.  While the
> outboard is using up the fuel in the carburetor I center the tiller, lock
> it, and raise the rudder blade.  Then, I walk to the bow, climb off onto
> the trailer, and attach the bow line.  I winch the boat up until the bow is
> touching the bow stop or as close as I can get it.  Then, I lock the winch
> and attach the safety line.  After that, I walk to the tow vehicle.  About
> now, the outboard engine stalls from lack of fuel.  I get into the tow
> vehicle and drive up the ramp.  At the top of the ramp, I brake sharply.
> This causes the boat to slide forward on the bunks up hard against the bow
> stop.  You want to do this right away while the boat and bunks are wet and
> slippery.  I get out and winch in any slack in the bow line and retighten
> the safety line.  If the boat has not slid forward enough, I drive forward
> again and slam on the brakes and keep doing that until the boat is far
> enough forward.  Usually, the first hard stop is sufficient.  Then, I drive
> over to the rigging area and start preparing the boat to go down the road.
> The whole thing takes less than 5 minutes from when I first approach the
> trailer.
>
> For most ramps, this technique requires the use of the tongue extension.
>
> If the ramp has a very gradual slope; then, submerge the bunks until just
> the front tip of the bunks are showing above the water.  Be prepared to gun
> the outboard to shove the boat up the last foot onto the bunks.  What will
> happen is the midsection of the hull and the keel will contact the trailer
> a little sooner than desired, stopping the boat a little too far aft on the
> trailer.  Full throttle and the bow winch will usually get the boat far
> enough forward on the trailer.  Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to
> drive up the ramp until the bow is up against the bow stop.  The boat is so
> heavy; that, even a few inches of misplacement will seriously unbalance the
> trailer.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hello everyone,
> >
> > I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
> > knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
> > perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
> > the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
> > charge.
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > Matt Wilson
> > Hornblower II
> > White Bear Lake, MN
>

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Wed Oct 18 16:28:10 2023
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 16:28:10 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
In-Reply-To: <CAPi3tBContcM-po-VbwDVsBSfqvab4-NztCrmYAoVx_dVAinYQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPi3tBContcM-po-VbwDVsBSfqvab4-NztCrmYAoVx_dVAinYQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <64998442-57D9-4511-98CC-ADB9138E35E3@stottarchitecture.com>

Great description by Roger. I don?t like the sliding and braking step and try to get it right from the beginning. 
The  ramp angle plays a part in where the stop should be. My ramp is very steep. I move the stop as far forward as possible.  When the boat is lifted out of the water the bow will rise away from the stop. You may  have to adjust (ease) the winch tension once the boat is out. 
Ric
Dadventure
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 18, 2023, at 2:15 PM, Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Roger
> I bought my Rhodes in 2017 and it stayed in the water for two seasons
> before I got a trailer and hauled it out for the winter. Since then I?ve
> hauled it out at the end of every season.
> I wish I had asked the haul out question back then.
> I?ve always been guessing about how to get it seated against the bow stop.
> The explanation was exactly what I needed
> Thanks very much
> 
> Bob
> s/v Sail la Vie
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 12:07?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Matt,
>> 
>> Assuming you have a trailer with bunks; then, the water needs to be deep
>> enough to almost submerge the front of the bunks.  I like to leave about
>> 12? of bunks showing above the water.  Then, you just line up the bow in
>> between the bunks and motor dead slow onto the trailer.  The underwater
>> guides will center the keel as the boat comes up onto the trailer.  The
>> bunks will stop the boat a few inches shy of the bow stop.  I leave the
>> engine running in forward with the fuel line disconnected.  While the
>> outboard is using up the fuel in the carburetor I center the tiller, lock
>> it, and raise the rudder blade.  Then, I walk to the bow, climb off onto
>> the trailer, and attach the bow line.  I winch the boat up until the bow is
>> touching the bow stop or as close as I can get it.  Then, I lock the winch
>> and attach the safety line.  After that, I walk to the tow vehicle.  About
>> now, the outboard engine stalls from lack of fuel.  I get into the tow
>> vehicle and drive up the ramp.  At the top of the ramp, I brake sharply.
>> This causes the boat to slide forward on the bunks up hard against the bow
>> stop.  You want to do this right away while the boat and bunks are wet and
>> slippery.  I get out and winch in any slack in the bow line and retighten
>> the safety line.  If the boat has not slid forward enough, I drive forward
>> again and slam on the brakes and keep doing that until the boat is far
>> enough forward.  Usually, the first hard stop is sufficient.  Then, I drive
>> over to the rigging area and start preparing the boat to go down the road.
>> The whole thing takes less than 5 minutes from when I first approach the
>> trailer.
>> 
>> For most ramps, this technique requires the use of the tongue extension.
>> 
>> If the ramp has a very gradual slope; then, submerge the bunks until just
>> the front tip of the bunks are showing above the water.  Be prepared to gun
>> the outboard to shove the boat up the last foot onto the bunks.  What will
>> happen is the midsection of the hull and the keel will contact the trailer
>> a little sooner than desired, stopping the boat a little too far aft on the
>> trailer.  Full throttle and the bow winch will usually get the boat far
>> enough forward on the trailer.  Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to
>> drive up the ramp until the bow is up against the bow stop.  The boat is so
>> heavy; that, even a few inches of misplacement will seriously unbalance the
>> trailer.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Hello everyone,
>>> 
>>> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
>>> knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
>>> perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
>>> the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
>>> charge.
>>> 
>>> Many thanks,
>>> Matt Wilson
>>> Hornblower II
>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>> 

From davidmberg at mac.com  Wed Oct 18 16:34:28 2023
From: davidmberg at mac.com (DAVID BERG)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 15:34:28 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
In-Reply-To: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02bb01da0202$8537aea0$8fa70be0$@mac.com>

Matt,

If your trailer is like mine (Triad) in my experience I think you want to get the entire trailer bunks just below the water surface. Of course depending on the slope of the ramp you may have to back in deep or use the extension. The water was super low at my landing this fall, but I was just able to manage without using the extension.

I'm willing to come assist you with landing and lowering the mast if I'm available when you're ready.

Dave
(612) 716-7510

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 7:55 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question

Hello everyone,

I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a charge.

Many thanks,
Matt Wilson
Hornblower II
White Bear Lake, MN


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Oct 18 17:05:08 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 21:05:08 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
In-Reply-To: <02bb01da0202$8537aea0$8fa70be0$@mac.com>
References: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <02bb01da0202$8537aea0$8fa70be0$@mac.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB66834EBCCB31CE86491A33D580D5A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

David,

Of course, with the tongue extension, you can often back in far enough to completely submerge the bunks.  However, unless you have a bunch of helpers to hang onto guy lines to keep the boat centered on the trailer, this is not the most efficient option.  If the boat does not engage with the trailer?s bunks to a certain extent; then, it is vulnerable to wind and wave action causing it to get misaligned with the trailer.  By leaving about 12? of the bunks exposed above the water, you give the helmsman an obvious target to aim at.  Just put the bow in between the bunks and the trailer does the rest.  The boat engages with the bunks just enough to keep wind and waves from spoiling the alignment on the trailer long enough to get it winched up against the bow stop.  I often put S/V Dynamic Equilibrium on the trailer single handed.  For a 22 ft LOA boat, it?s not difficult; but, the secret is mostly in the trailer design.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 18, 2023, at 4:34?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Matt,
> 
> If your trailer is like mine (Triad) in my experience I think you want to get the entire trailer bunks just below the water surface. Of course depending on the slope of the ramp you may have to back in deep or use the extension. The water was super low at my landing this fall, but I was just able to manage without using the extension.
> 
> I'm willing to come assist you with landing and lowering the mast if I'm available when you're ready.
> 
> Dave
> (612) 716-7510
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 7:55 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a charge.
> 
> Many thanks,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
> 

From davidmberg at mac.com  Wed Oct 18 17:33:52 2023
From: davidmberg at mac.com (DAVID BERG)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 16:33:52 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB66834EBCCB31CE86491A33D580D5A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <02bb01da0202$8537aea0$8fa70be0$@mac.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66834EBCCB31CE86491A33D580D5A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <044b01da020a$caf281b0$60d78510$@mac.com>

Roger,

Do you have the Triad? Mine has self-aligned really well... and we don't have gas engines (not allowed on in-city Minneapolis lakes) to power on to the trailer, so I'm usually having to pretty much float on gently using the electric motor. (Matt can have an outboard on White Bear Lake) I have had someone out on the dock with a really long stern line for possible alignment, but haven't really seemed to need that. The keel nestles into the Triad trailer and gets in lined up on its own. On my small lake we don't typically have waves of any real concern. Wind is another matter.

This year I cranked it up once then pulled the vehicle forward a bit and then backed back in a little and out and then cranked again until I had worked the boat forward to the desired spot on the trailer. In the past I have tried the stop fast method of moving the boat forward, but didn't have much success. Perhaps I was afraid of overdoing it and breaking something.

David Berg
Blue Loon
Minneapolis MN




-----Original Message-----
From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 4:05 PM
To: DAVID BERG <davidmberg at mac.com>; The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question

David,

Of course, with the tongue extension, you can often back in far enough to completely submerge the bunks.  However, unless you have a bunch of helpers to hang onto guy lines to keep the boat centered on the trailer, this is not the most efficient option.  If the boat does not engage with the trailer?s bunks to a certain extent; then, it is vulnerable to wind and wave action causing it to get misaligned with the trailer.  By leaving about 12? of the bunks exposed above the water, you give the helmsman an obvious target to aim at.  Just put the bow in between the bunks and the trailer does the rest.  The boat engages with the bunks just enough to keep wind and waves from spoiling the alignment on the trailer long enough to get it winched up against the bow stop.  I often put S/V Dynamic Equilibrium on the trailer single handed.  For a 22 ft LOA boat, it?s not difficult; but, the secret is mostly in the trailer design.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 18, 2023, at 4:34?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Matt,
> 
> If your trailer is like mine (Triad) in my experience I think you want to get the entire trailer bunks just below the water surface. Of course depending on the slope of the ramp you may have to back in deep or use the extension. The water was super low at my landing this fall, but I was just able to manage without using the extension.
> 
> I'm willing to come assist you with landing and lowering the mast if I'm available when you're ready.
> 
> Dave
> (612) 716-7510
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 7:55 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a charge.
> 
> Many thanks,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
> 


From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Oct 18 17:34:41 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 17:34:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
In-Reply-To: <02bb01da0202$8537aea0$8fa70be0$@mac.com>
References: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <02bb01da0202$8537aea0$8fa70be0$@mac.com>
Message-ID: <004d01da020a$e80919d0$b81b4d70$@ebsmed.com>

Hi Matt,

I am not sure if your trailer (Trailmaster) has the Triad Trailers tongue extension. If it does, you can push the trailer out far enough to recover in almost any low water situation.

When I was in a situation where we had to recover the Rhodes 22 as a tropical storm was coming, I could not wait for a high tide to haul out. Tidal heights on the LI Sound differ by nearly 8 foot between low and high so one must be keenly aware of the tide timing.

This time, we needed to haul out close to low tide. I was able to place the trailer under the boat by releasing it from the tow vehicle and floating the boat on the trailer. The hitch coupling was about 15 feet from the truck and the front trailer wheel was lowered to keep the trailer from striking the ramp. Fortunately, we have very long ramps so the trailer wheels were not in the sand. If the trailer wheels were beyond the end of the ramp, it would be very difficult to winch the trailer and boat up onto the ramp.

After securing the boat using the bow safety chain, I used the web strap that normally pulls the boat on to the trailer to winch the trailer to the tow vehicle using the safety chain receiver at the hitch. When close to the vehicle, I blocked the trailer wheels and hitched the trailer to the truck by repositioning the truck. Once fully hitched, we hauled her out to safety.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)


-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 7:55 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question

Hello everyone,

I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a charge.

Many thanks,
Matt Wilson
Hornblower II
White Bear Lake, MN


From mwhornblower at gmail.com  Wed Oct 18 18:06:04 2023
From: mwhornblower at gmail.com (Matt Wilson)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 17:06:04 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
In-Reply-To: <004d01da020a$e80919d0$b81b4d70$@ebsmed.com>
References: <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <02bb01da0202$8537aea0$8fa70be0$@mac.com>
 <004d01da020a$e80919d0$b81b4d70$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CANbEFCshkcGr7GUvGy_d_rE7FC-aSBo4stp_fFrTu0rWS5cpMA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks everyone!  And thanks for your offer to help Dave!!  I plan to do it
Monday early afternoon but my son will be around to help.  I would love to
meet up sometime...sorry we missed another season to do so.

Matt

On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 4:34?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> Hi Matt,
>
> I am not sure if your trailer (Trailmaster) has the Triad Trailers tongue
> extension. If it does, you can push the trailer out far enough to recover
> in almost any low water situation.
>
> When I was in a situation where we had to recover the Rhodes 22 as a
> tropical storm was coming, I could not wait for a high tide to haul out.
> Tidal heights on the LI Sound differ by nearly 8 foot between low and high
> so one must be keenly aware of the tide timing.
>
> This time, we needed to haul out close to low tide. I was able to place
> the trailer under the boat by releasing it from the tow vehicle and
> floating the boat on the trailer. The hitch coupling was about 15 feet from
> the truck and the front trailer wheel was lowered to keep the trailer from
> striking the ramp. Fortunately, we have very long ramps so the trailer
> wheels were not in the sand. If the trailer wheels were beyond the end of
> the ramp, it would be very difficult to winch the trailer and boat up onto
> the ramp.
>
> After securing the boat using the bow safety chain, I used the web strap
> that normally pulls the boat on to the trailer to winch the trailer to the
> tow vehicle using the safety chain receiver at the hitch. When close to the
> vehicle, I blocked the trailer wheels and hitched the trailer to the truck
> by repositioning the truck. Once fully hitched, we hauled her out to safety.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> Matt Wilson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 7:55 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
> knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
> perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
> the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a charge.
>
> Many thanks,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
>
>

From bettyfriedman at comcast.net  Thu Oct 19 08:18:17 2023
From: bettyfriedman at comcast.net (Betty Friedman)
Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2023 08:18:17 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4516, Issue 1
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2058.1697666776.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
References: <mailman.2058.1697666776.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
Message-ID: <F83A3F3A-12C1-434A-B024-2D00BD3EBCD4@comcast.net>

I am selling ?Miz Betty? a Rhodes 22 located in Mystic Connecticut.  The new buyer needs to rent a trailer. The boat will be going to cold Spring Harbor New York. Any advice will be welcome. Thanks, Ed

Sent from my iPhone by Betty Friedman

> On Oct 18, 2023, at 6:06 PM, rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org wrote:
> 
> ?Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to
>    rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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> 
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> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK (Tom Hyatt)
>   2. Re: IMF rigging (PBR)
>   3. Re: IMF rigging (PBR)
>   4. Re: IMF rigging (jpd9668)
>   5. ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK (peter beckerman)
>   6. Re: IMF rigging (Ric Stott)
>   7. Re: Boat Show (Michael Corley)
>   8. Annapolis 2023 (Charles Gabriel)
>   9. Re: R22 Owners in Baltimore Area? (Bob Garrant)
>  10. Re: R22 Owners in Baltimore Area? (Jay Friedland)
>  11. 2007 Trailmaster trailer question (Matt Wilson)
>  12. Re: 2007 Trailmaster trailer question (ROGER PIHLAJA)
>  13. Re: 2007 Trailmaster trailer question (Graham Stewart)
>  14. Re: 2007 Trailmaster trailer question (Matt Wilson)
>  15. Re: 2007 Trailmaster trailer question (Bob Garrant)
>  16. Re: 2007 Trailmaster trailer question (Ric Stott)
>  17. Re: 2007 Trailmaster trailer question (DAVID BERG)
>  18. Re: 2007 Trailmaster trailer question (ROGER PIHLAJA)
>  19. Re: 2007 Trailmaster trailer question (DAVID BERG)
>  20. Re: 2007 Trailmaster trailer question (Michael D. Weisner)
>  21. Re: 2007 Trailmaster trailer question (Matt Wilson)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 19:49:19 -0400
> From: Tom Hyatt <thyatt at mica.edu>
> To: mweisner at ebsmed.com
> Cc: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
> Message-ID:
>    <CAEhtY2J7rctmz8UKUmjhzVX=nJXGuSDJXp4SU6ftXY4Z7AdBMg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Thanks for the info. I'll be there on Saturday. Looking forward to meeting
> Stan and other Rhodes owners.
> 
> Tom Hyatt
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 7:33?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The Rhodes 22 (General Boats) exhibit is at Land 61 & 62. See the attached
>> images.
>> 
>> Mike
>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>> Nissequogue River, NY
>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Tom
>> Hyatt via Rhodes22-list
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2023 6:19 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
>> 
>> I will be there on Saturday at around one pm. I hope to talk with Stan and
>> meet other Rhodes owners. Stan?where will you be so that I can find you?
>> Will there be a Rhodes 22 on display anywhere ?
>> 
>> Tom Hyatt
>> S/V Eliza Jane 1978
>> Baltimore
>> 
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 17:20:00 -0700
> From: PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
> Message-ID:
>    <CAJGJx+B2wZq=p3TAVbDPLhNpGm7SGMJbiTwxicr00yuJEusfLg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Ric,
> I don't have any pics of the furling line and I am not near the boat, but
> thinking about it I don't think I have any block or bail.  Just a couple of
> small cleats along the bottom or side,  one near then end another closer to
> the mast so when the line is all the way out I wrap it and cleat it.  When
> sail is furled cleated off too.  Maybe others are different.  I have a few
> pics. of outhauls I could send, mostly the "new" through boom version.
> Patrick
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 8:42?AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks - it helps some, but I can?t see the  turning block at the end of
>> the boom.
>> Is it a fixed block or is it attached to a small bail?
>> R
>> 
>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>> O -631-283-1777
>> C- 516-965-3164
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>>> On Oct 11, 2023, at 9:51 AM, jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hope this helps. Note that old style traveller was still in use.i
>> upgraded to the newer style in 2019.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 M/V VoyagerFormer
>> Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an
>> AT&T 5G smartphone
>>> -------- Original message --------From: Ric Stott <
>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> Date: 10/10/23  9:37 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: The
>> Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject:
>> [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging HI Crew I have assembled all the parts for my
>> IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. I have question about how
>> the main sail furler lines are  run.My 2nd hand boom has a loose  block at
>> the aft end held by a small bail. I understand this is old-school and
>> improved with a fixed turning block. Can someone take a picture of their
>> fixed turning block at the back of the boom? Thanks in advance. Ric
>> Dadventure Hampton Bays, NY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> ric at stottarchitecture.comO -631-283-1777C- 516-965-3164
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>> Name: 1617235829287.jpg
>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>> Size: 114761 bytes
>>> Desc: not available
>>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231011/175fe4be/attachment.jpg
>>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 17:31:25 -0700
> From: PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
> Message-ID:
>    <CAJGJx+BRK8V=wpHDiEiUMTH_Hf4uSY2XEOUbyuRmEW0maCgGug at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Upon further consideration I think I installed a jam cleat on the side of
> the boom to assist when main is partially furled..
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 5:20?PM PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Ric,
>> I don't have any pics of the furling line and I am not near the boat, but
>> thinking about it I don't think I have any block or bail.  Just a couple of
>> small cleats along the bottom or side,  one near then end another closer to
>> the mast so when the line is all the way out I wrap it and cleat it.  When
>> sail is furled cleated off too.  Maybe others are different.  I have a few
>> pics. of outhauls I could send, mostly the "new" through boom version.
>> Patrick
>> 
>> 
>> On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 8:42?AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Thanks - it helps some, but I can?t see the  turning block at the end of
>>> the boom.
>>> Is it a fixed block or is it attached to a small bail?
>>> R
>>> 
>>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>>> O -631-283-1777
>>> C- 516-965-3164
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Oct 11, 2023, at 9:51 AM, jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Hope this helps. Note that old style traveller was still in use.i
>>> upgraded to the newer style in 2019.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 M/V VoyagerFormer
>>> Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an
>>> AT&T 5G smartphone
>>>> -------- Original message --------From: Ric Stott <
>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> Date: 10/10/23  9:37 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: The
>>> Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject:
>>> [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging HI Crew I have assembled all the parts for my
>>> IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. I have question about how
>>> the main sail furler lines are  run.My 2nd hand boom has a loose  block at
>>> the aft end held by a small bail. I understand this is old-school and
>>> improved with a fixed turning block. Can someone take a picture of their
>>> fixed turning block at the back of the boom? Thanks in advance. Ric
>>> Dadventure Hampton Bays, NY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>>> ric at stottarchitecture.comO -631-283-1777C- 516-965-3164
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> Name: 1617235829287.jpg
>>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>>> Size: 114761 bytes
>>>> Desc: not available
>>>> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231011/175fe4be/attachment.jpg
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2023 20:50:49 -0400
> From: jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
> Message-ID: <652742ee.920a0220.581e4.0b1c at mx.google.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Not sure what a turni g block is but the fiddle block is attached to the bale on the end of the boomJoe DempseyTrojan 42M/V VoyagerFormer Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
> -------- Original message --------From: PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> Date: 10/11/23  8:20 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging Ric,I don't have any pics of the furling line and I am not near the boat, butthinking about it I don't think I have any block or bail.? Just a couple ofsmall cleats along the bottom or side,? one near then end another closer tothe mast so when the line is all the way out I wrap it and cleat it.? Whensail is furled cleated off too.? Maybe others are different.? I have a fewpics. of outhauls I could send, mostly the "new" through boom version.PatrickOn Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 8:42?AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:> Thanks - it helps some, but I can?t see the? turning block at the end of> the boom.> Is it a fixed block or is it attached to a small bail?> R>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP> ric at stottarchitecture.com> O -631-283-1777> C- 516-965-3164>>>> > On Oct 11, 20
> 23, at 9:51 AM, jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:> >> > Hope this helps. Note that old style traveller was still in use.i> upgraded to the newer style in 2019.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 M/V VoyagerFormer> Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an> AT&T 5G smartphone> > -------- Original message --------From: Ric Stott <> ric at stottarchitecture.com> Date: 10/10/23? 9:37 AM? (GMT-05:00) To: The> Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject:> [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging HI Crew I have assembled all the parts for my> IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. I have question about how> the main sail furler lines are? run.My 2nd hand boom has a loose? block at> the aft end held by a small bail. I understand this is old-school and> improved with a fixed turning block. Can someone take a picture of their> fixed turning block at the back of the boom? Thanks in advance. Ric> Dadventure Hampton Bays, NY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP> ric at st
> ottarchitecture.comO -631-283-1777C- 516-965-3164> > -------------- next part --------------> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> > Name: 1617235829287.jpg> > Type: image/jpeg> > Size: 114761 bytes> > Desc: not available> > URL: <> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231011/175fe4be/attachment.jpg> >>>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2023 02:26:21 +0000 (UTC)
> From: peter beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>
> To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW THIS WEEK
> Message-ID: <1562569741.4678303.1697077581802 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I plan to attend Friday and Saturday.? Looking forward to meeting Stan and any Rhodies who are about.
> Peter Beckerman.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2023 07:55:38 -0400
> From: Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging
> Message-ID:
>    <28104705-9FAB-413E-BA6B-4E514ABFF91A at stottarchitecture.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> Thanks Patrick. Charles Gabriel sent me the pic I need. 
> Ric
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 11, 2023, at 8:20 PM, PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Ric,
>> I don't have any pics of the furling line and I am not near the boat, but
>> thinking about it I don't think I have any block or bail.  Just a couple of
>> small cleats along the bottom or side,  one near then end another closer to
>> the mast so when the line is all the way out I wrap it and cleat it.  When
>> sail is furled cleated off too.  Maybe others are different.  I have a few
>> pics. of outhauls I could send, mostly the "new" through boom version.
>> Patrick
>> 
>> 
>>>> On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 8:42?AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Thanks - it helps some, but I can?t see the  turning block at the end of
>>> the boom.
>>> Is it a fixed block or is it attached to a small bail?
>>> R
>>> 
>>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>>> O -631-283-1777
>>> C- 516-965-3164
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>>> On Oct 11, 2023, at 9:51 AM, jpd9668 <jpd9668 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Hope this helps. Note that old style traveller was still in use.i
>>> upgraded to the newer style in 2019.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 M/V VoyagerFormer
>>> Rhodes 22S/V RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an
>>> AT&T 5G smartphone
>>>> -------- Original message --------From: Ric Stott <
>>> ric at stottarchitecture.com> Date: 10/10/23  9:37 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: The
>>> Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject:
>>> [Rhodes22-list] IMF rigging HI Crew I have assembled all the parts for my
>>> IMF mast and will have it ready for next season. I have question about how
>>> the main sail furler lines are  run.My 2nd hand boom has a loose  block at
>>> the aft end held by a small bail. I understand this is old-school and
>>> improved with a fixed turning block. Can someone take a picture of their
>>> fixed turning block at the back of the boom? Thanks in advance. Ric
>>> Dadventure Hampton Bays, NY Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>>> ric at stottarchitecture.comO -631-283-1777C- 516-965-3164
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> Name: 1617235829287.jpg
>>>> Type: image/jpeg
>>>> Size: 114761 bytes
>>>> Desc: not available
>>>> URL: <
>>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231011/175fe4be/attachment.jpg
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2023 08:18:01 -0400
> From: Michael Corley <michael.4591 at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Boat Show
> Message-ID:
>    <CACSd1j+RxPZuZgs0c+UNugjAtF2TLmZYX9zUzxtxjtY5KTF-oQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I will be there today thru Sunday.  Look forward to seeing all the Rhodies
> and spending time with Stan.  Your help is definitely appreciated.
> 
> -Mike
> 99 Rhodes
> Hampton Roads, VA.
> 
> On Wed, Oct 11, 2023 at 11:31?AM Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> After much anticipation, I now have to be in Columbus that weekend. Darn.
>> Best regards to all of you. I?ll be available to any interested parties
>> with questions about cruising the Rhodes. Feel free to pass out my email.
>> Chris Geankoplis
>> Xenos.
>> 
>> On Tue, Oct 10, 2023 at 8:14 AM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>>> I?ll be there on Saturday
>>> 
>>> Tom Hyatt
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Oct 10, 2023 at 8:21 AM daysails--- via Rhodes22-list <
>>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I will be at the Annapolis Boat Show on Sunday and plan to stop by to
>> say
>>>> hello to Stan and the crew.  I will stand in as a volunteer salesman
>> and
>>>> greet the throng of on lookers all eager to become Rhodies. Is anyone
>>> else
>>>> planning to attend?
>>>> Joe RileySecond Wind (Lake Hartwell)Athens Georgia
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2023 12:12:46 -0400
> From: Charles Gabriel <charles.gabriel at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Annapolis 2023
> Message-ID:
>    <CABCtkXUEi5mt4hUwWDr=bBgkM6aeV5r014zRV_Q1BeBjeArarw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Good Morning from Annapolis.
> Looking forward to seeing you all!
> -------------- next part --------------
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2023 08:56:57 -0400
> From: Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com>
> To: Tom Hyatt <thyatt at mica.edu>, The Rhodes 22 Email List
>    <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] R22 Owners in Baltimore Area?
> Message-ID:
>    <CAPi3tBC7mVUMR6Ws6iu0te2V+rmD0hU8vULO4DCXjNnNF1QQQQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Tom,
> I'm not able to attend the Sailboat Show this year.
> I keep my boat on Kent Island. As of yesterday, October 13th, the
> 'odometer' on my Garmin indicated that I have sailed over 1300 nautical
> miles in the last 4 years on the Chester River and the Bay.
> The folks at the show likely have decades more experience than I have with
> this amazing vessel. But I may be able to offer some insight about sailing
> the Rhodes in our area.
> Regards,
> Bob Garrant
> s/v Sail la Vie 2000/2017
> bgarrant at gmail.com
> 
> On Thu, Sep 7, 2023 at 9:51?AM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
>> I'm looking for Rhodes 22 owners in the Baltimore area. As a new Rhodes 22
>> owner, I have lots of questions about various aspects of the Rhodes. If you
>> would be willing to share some of your knowledge, let me know. We could
>> meetup for coffee or a drink.
>> 
>> FYI, I have my boat at the Maryland Marina in Bowleys Quarters. I know
>> there is at least one R22 owner who puts in there because they were the
>> inspiration for my choosing a Rhodes in the first place. I just have not
>> been able to locate them after that initial meeting.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Tom Hyatt
>> S/V Eliza Jane
>> 1978
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2023 09:33:28 -0400
> From: Jay Friedland <jayf401 at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] R22 Owners in Baltimore Area?
> Message-ID: <583DCA54-D523-4989-9FD0-B7218FB705DB at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> Folks,
> I saw Stan last year, but unable to make it this year. Just a simple request- if there are any highlights or things of interest, or how Stan is doing, that you can convey to those who couldn?t make it, it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Jay Friedland
> S/V Wanderlust, ?97
> 
>> On Sep 7, 2023, at 1:18?PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Come join us at the 2023 Annapolis Sailboat Show at City Dock & Harbor, 1 Dock Street, Annapolis, MD 21401 (https://secure.interactiveticketing.com/1.39/a0c9f1/#/select)
>> 
>> We will be at the Rhodes 22 exhibit. Talk to Rhodies and Stan!
>> 
>> The show hours are:
>> 
>>    October 12-15, 2023
>> 
>>    Thursday: 10:00am - 6:30pm
>>    Friday: 10:00am - 6:30pm
>>    Saturday: 10:00am - 6:30pm
>>    Sunday: 10:00am - 5:00pm
>> 
>> I plan to be there on Saturday.
>> 
>> Mike
>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>> Nissequogue River, NY
>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list
>> Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2023 9:51 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] R22 Owners in Baltimore Area?
>> 
>> I'm looking for Rhodes 22 owners in the Baltimore area. As a new Rhodes 22 owner, I have lots of questions about various aspects of the Rhodes. If you would be willing to share some of your knowledge, let me know. We could meetup for coffee or a drink.
>> 
>> FYI, I have my boat at the Maryland Marina in Bowleys Quarters. I know there is at least one R22 owner who puts in there because they were the inspiration for my choosing a Rhodes in the first place. I just have not been able to locate them after that initial meeting.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Tom Hyatt
>> S/V Eliza Jane
>> 1978
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 07:55:29 -0500
> From: Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> Message-ID:
>    <CANbEFCun5FichdBr8EiHsC18S1284ac5qYhae_qO7-OnfNBQQw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
> knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
> perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
> the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
> charge.
> 
> Many thanks,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 15:29:03 +0000
> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> Message-ID:
>    <CY8PR10MB668323B4197B81E172A995C880D5A at CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Matt,
> 
> Assuming you have a trailer with bunks; then, the water needs to be deep enough to almost submerge the front of the bunks.  I like to leave about 12? of bunks showing above the water.  Then, you just line up the bow in between the bunks and motor dead slow onto the trailer.  The underwater guides will center the keel as the boat comes up onto the trailer.  The bunks will stop the boat a few inches shy of the bow stop.  I leave the engine running in forward with the fuel line disconnected.  While the outboard is using up the fuel in the carburetor I center the tiller, lock it, and raise the rudder blade.  Then, I walk to the bow, climb off onto the trailer, and attach the bow line.  I winch the boat up until the bow is touching the bow stop or as close as I can get it.  Then, I lock the winch and attach the safety line.  After that, I walk to the tow vehicle.  About now, the outboard engine stalls from lack of fuel.  I get into the tow vehicle and drive up the ramp.  At the to
> p of the ramp, I brake sharply.  This causes the boat to slide forward on the bunks up hard against the bow stop.  You want to do this right away while the boat and bunks are wet and slippery.  I get out and winch in any slack in the bow line and retighten the safety line.  If the boat has not slid forward enough, I drive forward again and slam on the brakes and keep doing that until the boat is far enough forward.  Usually, the first hard stop is sufficient.  Then, I drive over to the rigging area and start preparing the boat to go down the road.  The whole thing takes less than 5 minutes from when I first approach the trailer.
> 
> For most ramps, this technique requires the use of the tongue extension.
> 
> If the ramp has a very gradual slope; then, submerge the bunks until just the front tip of the bunks are showing above the water.  Be prepared to gun the outboard to shove the boat up the last foot onto the bunks.  What will happen is the midsection of the hull and the keel will contact the trailer a little sooner than desired, stopping the boat a little too far aft on the trailer.  Full throttle and the bow winch will usually get the boat far enough forward on the trailer.  Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to drive up the ramp until the bow is up against the bow stop.  The boat is so heavy; that, even a few inches of misplacement will seriously unbalance the trailer.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
>> knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
>> perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
>> the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
>> charge.
>> 
>> Many thanks,
>> Matt Wilson
>> Hornblower II
>> White Bear Lake, MN
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 13
> Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 11:57:46 -0400
> From: Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> Message-ID:
>    <CACdaeT5BEikuSLXN4LV7FZF6Yntmr6GE3jw=uPqodO5xXJnKPg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> You need enough depth to just cover the bunks.
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile 76
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 8:55?AM Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
>> knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
>> perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
>> the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
>> charge.
>> 
>> Many thanks,
>> Matt Wilson
>> Hornblower II
>> White Bear Lake, MN
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 14
> Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 12:40:50 -0500
> From: Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> Message-ID:
>    <CANbEFCs5XgkdxXDKyO0JVpismq_KZgOSP8Y_xeXY-wZm1UH8Yw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Thank you Grahm and Roger!  Sound like I need at least 3? of water to be
> successful.  Our lake has dropped quite a bit the ramp closest to my house
> may only be about that deep. Hearing all of this really helps!
> Matt
> 
> On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 11:07 AM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Hi Matt,
>> 
>> Assuming you have a trailer with bunks; then, the water needs to be deep
>> enough to almost submerge the front of the bunks.  I like to leave about
>> 12? of bunks showing above the water.  Then, you just line up the bow in
>> between the bunks and motor dead slow onto the trailer.  The underwater
>> guides will center the keel as the boat comes up onto the trailer.  The
>> bunks will stop the boat a few inches shy of the bow stop.  I leave the
>> engine running in forward with the fuel line disconnected.  While the
>> outboard is using up the fuel in the carburetor I center the tiller, lock
>> it, and raise the rudder blade.  Then, I walk to the bow, climb off onto
>> the trailer, and attach the bow line.  I winch the boat up until the bow is
>> touching the bow stop or as close as I can get it.  Then, I lock the winch
>> and attach the safety line.  After that, I walk to the tow vehicle.  About
>> now, the outboard engine stalls from lack of fuel.  I get into the tow
>> vehicle and drive up the ramp.  At the top of the ramp, I brake sharply.
>> This causes the boat to slide forward on the bunks up hard against the bow
>> stop.  You want to do this right away while the boat and bunks are wet and
>> slippery.  I get out and winch in any slack in the bow line and retighten
>> the safety line.  If the boat has not slid forward enough, I drive forward
>> again and slam on the brakes and keep doing that until the boat is far
>> enough forward.  Usually, the first hard stop is sufficient.  Then, I drive
>> over to the rigging area and start preparing the boat to go down the road.
>> The whole thing takes less than 5 minutes from when I first approach the
>> trailer.
>> 
>> For most ramps, this technique requires the use of the tongue extension.
>> 
>> If the ramp has a very gradual slope; then, submerge the bunks until just
>> the front tip of the bunks are showing above the water.  Be prepared to gun
>> the outboard to shove the boat up the last foot onto the bunks.  What will
>> happen is the midsection of the hull and the keel will contact the trailer
>> a little sooner than desired, stopping the boat a little too far aft on the
>> trailer.  Full throttle and the bow winch will usually get the boat far
>> enough forward on the trailer.  Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to
>> drive up the ramp until the bow is up against the bow stop.  The boat is so
>> heavy; that, even a few inches of misplacement will seriously unbalance the
>> trailer.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Hello everyone,
>>> 
>>> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
>>> knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
>>> perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
>>> the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
>>> charge.
>>> 
>>> Many thanks,
>>> Matt Wilson
>>> Hornblower II
>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 15
> Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 14:14:56 -0400
> From: Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> Message-ID:
>    <CAPi3tBContcM-po-VbwDVsBSfqvab4-NztCrmYAoVx_dVAinYQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Roger
> I bought my Rhodes in 2017 and it stayed in the water for two seasons
> before I got a trailer and hauled it out for the winter. Since then I?ve
> hauled it out at the end of every season.
> I wish I had asked the haul out question back then.
> I?ve always been guessing about how to get it seated against the bow stop.
> The explanation was exactly what I needed
> Thanks very much
> 
> Bob
> s/v Sail la Vie
> 
> 
> On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 12:07?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Hi Matt,
>> 
>> Assuming you have a trailer with bunks; then, the water needs to be deep
>> enough to almost submerge the front of the bunks.  I like to leave about
>> 12? of bunks showing above the water.  Then, you just line up the bow in
>> between the bunks and motor dead slow onto the trailer.  The underwater
>> guides will center the keel as the boat comes up onto the trailer.  The
>> bunks will stop the boat a few inches shy of the bow stop.  I leave the
>> engine running in forward with the fuel line disconnected.  While the
>> outboard is using up the fuel in the carburetor I center the tiller, lock
>> it, and raise the rudder blade.  Then, I walk to the bow, climb off onto
>> the trailer, and attach the bow line.  I winch the boat up until the bow is
>> touching the bow stop or as close as I can get it.  Then, I lock the winch
>> and attach the safety line.  After that, I walk to the tow vehicle.  About
>> now, the outboard engine stalls from lack of fuel.  I get into the tow
>> vehicle and drive up the ramp.  At the top of the ramp, I brake sharply.
>> This causes the boat to slide forward on the bunks up hard against the bow
>> stop.  You want to do this right away while the boat and bunks are wet and
>> slippery.  I get out and winch in any slack in the bow line and retighten
>> the safety line.  If the boat has not slid forward enough, I drive forward
>> again and slam on the brakes and keep doing that until the boat is far
>> enough forward.  Usually, the first hard stop is sufficient.  Then, I drive
>> over to the rigging area and start preparing the boat to go down the road.
>> The whole thing takes less than 5 minutes from when I first approach the
>> trailer.
>> 
>> For most ramps, this technique requires the use of the tongue extension.
>> 
>> If the ramp has a very gradual slope; then, submerge the bunks until just
>> the front tip of the bunks are showing above the water.  Be prepared to gun
>> the outboard to shove the boat up the last foot onto the bunks.  What will
>> happen is the midsection of the hull and the keel will contact the trailer
>> a little sooner than desired, stopping the boat a little too far aft on the
>> trailer.  Full throttle and the bow winch will usually get the boat far
>> enough forward on the trailer.  Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to
>> drive up the ramp until the bow is up against the bow stop.  The boat is so
>> heavy; that, even a few inches of misplacement will seriously unbalance the
>> trailer.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?Hello everyone,
>>> 
>>> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
>>> knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
>>> perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
>>> the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
>>> charge.
>>> 
>>> Many thanks,
>>> Matt Wilson
>>> Hornblower II
>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 16
> Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 16:28:10 -0400
> From: Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> Message-ID:
>    <64998442-57D9-4511-98CC-ADB9138E35E3 at stottarchitecture.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> Great description by Roger. I don?t like the sliding and braking step and try to get it right from the beginning. 
> The  ramp angle plays a part in where the stop should be. My ramp is very steep. I move the stop as far forward as possible.  When the boat is lifted out of the water the bow will rise away from the stop. You may  have to adjust (ease) the winch tension once the boat is out. 
> Ric
> Dadventure
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 18, 2023, at 2:15 PM, Bob Garrant <bgarrant at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Roger
>> I bought my Rhodes in 2017 and it stayed in the water for two seasons
>> before I got a trailer and hauled it out for the winter. Since then I?ve
>> hauled it out at the end of every season.
>> I wish I had asked the haul out question back then.
>> I?ve always been guessing about how to get it seated against the bow stop.
>> The explanation was exactly what I needed
>> Thanks very much
>> 
>> Bob
>> s/v Sail la Vie
>> 
>> 
>>> On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 12:07?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Matt,
>>> 
>>> Assuming you have a trailer with bunks; then, the water needs to be deep
>>> enough to almost submerge the front of the bunks.  I like to leave about
>>> 12? of bunks showing above the water.  Then, you just line up the bow in
>>> between the bunks and motor dead slow onto the trailer.  The underwater
>>> guides will center the keel as the boat comes up onto the trailer.  The
>>> bunks will stop the boat a few inches shy of the bow stop.  I leave the
>>> engine running in forward with the fuel line disconnected.  While the
>>> outboard is using up the fuel in the carburetor I center the tiller, lock
>>> it, and raise the rudder blade.  Then, I walk to the bow, climb off onto
>>> the trailer, and attach the bow line.  I winch the boat up until the bow is
>>> touching the bow stop or as close as I can get it.  Then, I lock the winch
>>> and attach the safety line.  After that, I walk to the tow vehicle.  About
>>> now, the outboard engine stalls from lack of fuel.  I get into the tow
>>> vehicle and drive up the ramp.  At the top of the ramp, I brake sharply.
>>> This causes the boat to slide forward on the bunks up hard against the bow
>>> stop.  You want to do this right away while the boat and bunks are wet and
>>> slippery.  I get out and winch in any slack in the bow line and retighten
>>> the safety line.  If the boat has not slid forward enough, I drive forward
>>> again and slam on the brakes and keep doing that until the boat is far
>>> enough forward.  Usually, the first hard stop is sufficient.  Then, I drive
>>> over to the rigging area and start preparing the boat to go down the road.
>>> The whole thing takes less than 5 minutes from when I first approach the
>>> trailer.
>>> 
>>> For most ramps, this technique requires the use of the tongue extension.
>>> 
>>> If the ramp has a very gradual slope; then, submerge the bunks until just
>>> the front tip of the bunks are showing above the water.  Be prepared to gun
>>> the outboard to shove the boat up the last foot onto the bunks.  What will
>>> happen is the midsection of the hull and the keel will contact the trailer
>>> a little sooner than desired, stopping the boat a little too far aft on the
>>> trailer.  Full throttle and the bow winch will usually get the boat far
>>> enough forward on the trailer.  Do not, under any circumstances, attempt to
>>> drive up the ramp until the bow is up against the bow stop.  The boat is so
>>> heavy; that, even a few inches of misplacement will seriously unbalance the
>>> trailer.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>>> On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55?AM, Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> ?Hello everyone,
>>>> 
>>>> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
>>>> knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
>>>> perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
>>>> the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a
>>>> charge.
>>>> 
>>>> Many thanks,
>>>> Matt Wilson
>>>> Hornblower II
>>>> White Bear Lake, MN
>>> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 17
> Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 15:34:28 -0500
> From: "DAVID BERG" <davidmberg at mac.com>
> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> Message-ID: <02bb01da0202$8537aea0$8fa70be0$@mac.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="utf-8"
> 
> Matt,
> 
> If your trailer is like mine (Triad) in my experience I think you want to get the entire trailer bunks just below the water surface. Of course depending on the slope of the ramp you may have to back in deep or use the extension. The water was super low at my landing this fall, but I was just able to manage without using the extension.
> 
> I'm willing to come assist you with landing and lowering the mast if I'm available when you're ready.
> 
> Dave
> (612) 716-7510
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 7:55 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a charge.
> 
> Many thanks,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 18
> Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 21:05:08 +0000
> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> To: DAVID BERG <davidmberg at mac.com>, The Rhodes 22 Email List
>    <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> Message-ID:
>    <CY8PR10MB66834EBCCB31CE86491A33D580D5A at CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> David,
> 
> Of course, with the tongue extension, you can often back in far enough to completely submerge the bunks.  However, unless you have a bunch of helpers to hang onto guy lines to keep the boat centered on the trailer, this is not the most efficient option.  If the boat does not engage with the trailer?s bunks to a certain extent; then, it is vulnerable to wind and wave action causing it to get misaligned with the trailer.  By leaving about 12? of the bunks exposed above the water, you give the helmsman an obvious target to aim at.  Just put the bow in between the bunks and the trailer does the rest.  The boat engages with the bunks just enough to keep wind and waves from spoiling the alignment on the trailer long enough to get it winched up against the bow stop.  I often put S/V Dynamic Equilibrium on the trailer single handed.  For a 22 ft LOA boat, it?s not difficult; but, the secret is mostly in the trailer design.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 18, 2023, at 4:34?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Matt,
>> 
>> If your trailer is like mine (Triad) in my experience I think you want to get the entire trailer bunks just below the water surface. Of course depending on the slope of the ramp you may have to back in deep or use the extension. The water was super low at my landing this fall, but I was just able to manage without using the extension.
>> 
>> I'm willing to come assist you with landing and lowering the mast if I'm available when you're ready.
>> 
>> Dave
>> (612) 716-7510
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 7:55 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
>> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a charge.
>> 
>> Many thanks,
>> Matt Wilson
>> Hornblower II
>> White Bear Lake, MN
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 19
> Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 16:33:52 -0500
> From: "DAVID BERG" <davidmberg at mac.com>
> To: "'ROGER PIHLAJA'" <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>, "'The Rhodes 22 Email
>    List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> Message-ID: <044b01da020a$caf281b0$60d78510$@mac.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="utf-8"
> 
> Roger,
> 
> Do you have the Triad? Mine has self-aligned really well... and we don't have gas engines (not allowed on in-city Minneapolis lakes) to power on to the trailer, so I'm usually having to pretty much float on gently using the electric motor. (Matt can have an outboard on White Bear Lake) I have had someone out on the dock with a really long stern line for possible alignment, but haven't really seemed to need that. The keel nestles into the Triad trailer and gets in lined up on its own. On my small lake we don't typically have waves of any real concern. Wind is another matter.
> 
> This year I cranked it up once then pulled the vehicle forward a bit and then backed back in a little and out and then cranked again until I had worked the boat forward to the desired spot on the trailer. In the past I have tried the stop fast method of moving the boat forward, but didn't have much success. Perhaps I was afraid of overdoing it and breaking something.
> 
> David Berg
> Blue Loon
> Minneapolis MN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 4:05 PM
> To: DAVID BERG <davidmberg at mac.com>; The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> 
> David,
> 
> Of course, with the tongue extension, you can often back in far enough to completely submerge the bunks.  However, unless you have a bunch of helpers to hang onto guy lines to keep the boat centered on the trailer, this is not the most efficient option.  If the boat does not engage with the trailer?s bunks to a certain extent; then, it is vulnerable to wind and wave action causing it to get misaligned with the trailer.  By leaving about 12? of the bunks exposed above the water, you give the helmsman an obvious target to aim at.  Just put the bow in between the bunks and the trailer does the rest.  The boat engages with the bunks just enough to keep wind and waves from spoiling the alignment on the trailer long enough to get it winched up against the bow stop.  I often put S/V Dynamic Equilibrium on the trailer single handed.  For a 22 ft LOA boat, it?s not difficult; but, the secret is mostly in the trailer design.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 18, 2023, at 4:34?PM, DAVID BERG via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Matt,
>> 
>> If your trailer is like mine (Triad) in my experience I think you want to get the entire trailer bunks just below the water surface. Of course depending on the slope of the ramp you may have to back in deep or use the extension. The water was super low at my landing this fall, but I was just able to manage without using the extension.
>> 
>> I'm willing to come assist you with landing and lowering the mast if I'm available when you're ready.
>> 
>> Dave
>> (612) 716-7510
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 7:55 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
>> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a charge.
>> 
>> Many thanks,
>> Matt Wilson
>> Hornblower II
>> White Bear Lake, MN
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 20
> Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 17:34:41 -0400
> From: "Michael D. Weisner" <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> Message-ID: <004d01da020a$e80919d0$b81b4d70$@ebsmed.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Hi Matt,
> 
> I am not sure if your trailer (Trailmaster) has the Triad Trailers tongue extension. If it does, you can push the trailer out far enough to recover in almost any low water situation.
> 
> When I was in a situation where we had to recover the Rhodes 22 as a tropical storm was coming, I could not wait for a high tide to haul out. Tidal heights on the LI Sound differ by nearly 8 foot between low and high so one must be keenly aware of the tide timing.
> 
> This time, we needed to haul out close to low tide. I was able to place the trailer under the boat by releasing it from the tow vehicle and floating the boat on the trailer. The hitch coupling was about 15 feet from the truck and the front trailer wheel was lowered to keep the trailer from striking the ramp. Fortunately, we have very long ramps so the trailer wheels were not in the sand. If the trailer wheels were beyond the end of the ramp, it would be very difficult to winch the trailer and boat up onto the ramp.
> 
> After securing the boat using the bow safety chain, I used the web strap that normally pulls the boat on to the trailer to winch the trailer to the tow vehicle using the safety chain receiver at the hitch. When close to the vehicle, I blocked the trailer wheels and hitched the trailer to the truck by repositioning the truck. Once fully hitched, we hauled her out to safety.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Matt Wilson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 7:55 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a charge.
> 
> Many thanks,
> Matt Wilson
> Hornblower II
> White Bear Lake, MN
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 21
> Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2023 17:06:04 -0500
> From: Matt Wilson <mwhornblower at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
> Message-ID:
>    <CANbEFCshkcGr7GUvGy_d_rE7FC-aSBo4stp_fFrTu0rWS5cpMA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Thanks everyone!  And thanks for your offer to help Dave!!  I plan to do it
> Monday early afternoon but my son will be around to help.  I would love to
> meet up sometime...sorry we missed another season to do so.
> 
> Matt
> 
> On Wed, Oct 18, 2023 at 4:34?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Hi Matt,
>> 
>> I am not sure if your trailer (Trailmaster) has the Triad Trailers tongue
>> extension. If it does, you can push the trailer out far enough to recover
>> in almost any low water situation.
>> 
>> When I was in a situation where we had to recover the Rhodes 22 as a
>> tropical storm was coming, I could not wait for a high tide to haul out.
>> Tidal heights on the LI Sound differ by nearly 8 foot between low and high
>> so one must be keenly aware of the tide timing.
>> 
>> This time, we needed to haul out close to low tide. I was able to place
>> the trailer under the boat by releasing it from the tow vehicle and
>> floating the boat on the trailer. The hitch coupling was about 15 feet from
>> the truck and the front trailer wheel was lowered to keep the trailer from
>> striking the ramp. Fortunately, we have very long ramps so the trailer
>> wheels were not in the sand. If the trailer wheels were beyond the end of
>> the ramp, it would be very difficult to winch the trailer and boat up onto
>> the ramp.
>> 
>> After securing the boat using the bow safety chain, I used the web strap
>> that normally pulls the boat on to the trailer to winch the trailer to the
>> tow vehicle using the safety chain receiver at the hitch. When close to the
>> vehicle, I blocked the trailer wheels and hitched the trailer to the truck
>> by repositioning the truck. Once fully hitched, we hauled her out to safety.
>> 
>> Mike
>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>> Nissequogue River, NY
>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
>> Matt Wilson
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 7:55 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
>> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> I am about to pull my Rhodes for the season and am wondering if anyone
>> knows approximately how much water I need to have at the ramp.  Any
>> perspectives would be super helpful. There are multiple ramp options but
>> the deepest would have to be done by the local boatworks and incur a charge.
>> 
>> Many thanks,
>> Matt Wilson
>> Hornblower II
>> White Bear Lake, MN
>> 
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rhodes22-list mailing list
> Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4516, Issue 1
> **********************************************


From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com  Fri Oct 20 07:30:55 2023
From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (Jeff Smith Photo)
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2023 07:30:55 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] 2007 Trailmaster trailer question
Message-ID: <CAM0HAmk9hUxv1Udj7vkcvR_NDuAZZbu20z0GA2GEt2F_YpDOgw@mail.gmail.com>

I added the vertical white trailer guards to the back of my Triad tandem
trailer to help align and guide the boat on retrieval. They are a big help.

Best Regards
Jeff Smith
www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net
732-236-1368

From edmc18 at gmail.com  Sat Oct 21 10:11:16 2023
From: edmc18 at gmail.com (Ed McNamara)
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2023 10:11:16 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] R22 Owners in Baltimore Area?
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2+sgVfgr3phxdLbj8muq8pNhruO7OjXxqtnKVQV376pXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2+sgVfgr3phxdLbj8muq8pNhruO7OjXxqtnKVQV376pXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAC-_suSx6FVEuYY1f_+5h7scni5+UYdm1Da4fgNWDBK=zg68Og@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Tom,
I live in Huddleston VA and sail on Smith Mountain Lake. My daughter lives
in Middle River MD. I?ve been fantasizing about bringing my boat up there,
finding a slip I can rent for a week (is that even possible?) and doing
some exploring on the Chesapeake.

I?d enjoy meeting up with you sometime when I?m up that way and pick your
brain about the bay and you can pick mine about the Rhodes. WARNING:
Compared to many on this forum. my knowledge is very limited, mostly
relating to things I did wrong that maybe you can avoid!?.

Let me know if that works for you.

Ed McNamara
S/V Scholar
Smith Mountain Lake VA

On Thu, Sep 7, 2023 at 9:51 AM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I'm looking for Rhodes 22 owners in the Baltimore area. As a new Rhodes 22
> owner, I have lots of questions about various aspects of the Rhodes. If you
> would be willing to share some of your knowledge, let me know. We could
> meetup for coffee or a drink.
>
> FYI, I have my boat at the Maryland Marina in Bowleys Quarters. I know
> there is at least one R22 owner who puts in there because they were the
> inspiration for my choosing a Rhodes in the first place. I just have not
> been able to locate them after that initial meeting.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane
> 1978
>

From edmc18 at gmail.com  Sat Oct 21 10:19:51 2023
From: edmc18 at gmail.com (Ed McNamara)
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2023 10:19:51 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] R22 Owners in Baltimore Area?
In-Reply-To: <CAC-_suSx6FVEuYY1f_+5h7scni5+UYdm1Da4fgNWDBK=zg68Og@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2+sgVfgr3phxdLbj8muq8pNhruO7OjXxqtnKVQV376pXQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAC-_suSx6FVEuYY1f_+5h7scni5+UYdm1Da4fgNWDBK=zg68Og@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAC-_suSzSSvke8b6yK2Kdge6nNhiGs2-Q8Gds4FkW3u1JGwKqA@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry Tom, I just checked and see that my daughter?s house is 11 minutes
from Bowley?s Quarter. That?s an awful long way but maybe we could meet
half way!?

On Sat, Oct 21, 2023 at 10:11 AM Ed McNamara <edmc18 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Tom,
> I live in Huddleston VA and sail on Smith Mountain Lake. My daughter lives
> in Middle River MD. I?ve been fantasizing about bringing my boat up there,
> finding a slip I can rent for a week (is that even possible?) and doing
> some exploring on the Chesapeake.
>
> I?d enjoy meeting up with you sometime when I?m up that way and pick your
> brain about the bay and you can pick mine about the Rhodes. WARNING:
> Compared to many on this forum. my knowledge is very limited, mostly
> relating to things I did wrong that maybe you can avoid!?.
>
> Let me know if that works for you.
>
> Ed McNamara
> S/V Scholar
> Smith Mountain Lake VA
>
> On Thu, Sep 7, 2023 at 9:51 AM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
>> I'm looking for Rhodes 22 owners in the Baltimore area. As a new Rhodes 22
>> owner, I have lots of questions about various aspects of the Rhodes. If
>> you
>> would be willing to share some of your knowledge, let me know. We could
>> meetup for coffee or a drink.
>>
>> FYI, I have my boat at the Maryland Marina in Bowleys Quarters. I know
>> there is at least one R22 owner who puts in there because they were the
>> inspiration for my choosing a Rhodes in the first place. I just have not
>> been able to locate them after that initial meeting.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tom Hyatt
>> S/V Eliza Jane
>> 1978
>>
>

From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Thu Oct 26 10:37:24 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 10:37:24 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
Message-ID: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>

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-------------- next part --------------
Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a single cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way to run the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions? If I do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem good. Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts the pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I?ve read where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc. but I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of the bow.

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Thu Oct 26 10:43:44 2023
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 10:43:44 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7B024BA4-171C-4DF9-B0D3-13594C29A3F3@stottarchitecture.com>

Can't open the attachment, but you would normally use one of the two the chocks forward of the bow cleat. 
RIC 
DADVENTURE 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Oct 26, 2023, at 10:37 AM, Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
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> -------------- next part --------------
> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a single cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way to run the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions? If I do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem good. Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts the pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I?ve read where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc. but I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of the bow.


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Thu Oct 26 11:44:16 2023
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 08:44:16 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
Message-ID: <E1qw2Wu-003Bic-0A@s152.servername.online>

For unknown reasons, sometimes picture attachments end up with a file name extension of '.bin', which usually can't be opened as is.  If you download the file and rename it, changing the extension to '.jpg', it should open.

Ric, you missed the part where Mitch said that he doesn't have bow chocks, and is not interested in adding them to his boat.

Before I added bow chocks, I lead the anchor line to the side, between two of the pulpit stanchions.  It's easier to retrieve the anchor that way, and I figured that swinging at anchor is just a fact of life.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)

> On 2023-10-26, at 10:43:44 EDT, Ric Stott wrote:
>
> Can't open the attachment, but you would normally use one of the two the chocks 
> forward of the bow cleat. 
> RIC
> DADVENTURE
> 
> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> <a href="http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list">ric at 
> stottarchitecture.com</a> 
> O -631-283-1777
> C- 516-965-3164
> 
> 
> 
> 


From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Thu Oct 26 12:03:52 2023
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 12:03:52 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <E1qw2Wu-003Bic-0A@s152.servername.online>
References: <E1qw2Wu-003Bic-0A@s152.servername.online>
Message-ID: <D17B5DD4-56CC-43E8-A33A-839A9210F76B@stottarchitecture.com>

Yes. I missed the absence off bow chocks.
In light of that, in my 70 years of boating experience, my strong recommendation is to install two bow chocks.
It?s easy and they are invaluable. 
I can?t imagine why they would not be there or how to deal with docking and anchoring or mooring without them - period. 
Ric Dadventure 
HBNY 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Oct 26, 2023, at 11:44 AM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> For unknown reasons, sometimes picture attachments end up with a file name extension of '.bin', which usually can't be opened as is.  If you download the file and rename it, changing the extension to '.jpg', it should open.
> 
> Ric, you missed the part where Mitch said that he doesn't have bow chocks, and is not interested in adding them to his boat.
> 
> Before I added bow chocks, I lead the anchor line to the side, between two of the pulpit stanchions.  It's easier to retrieve the anchor that way, and I figured that swinging at anchor is just a fact of life.
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> 
>> On 2023-10-26, at 10:43:44 EDT, Ric Stott wrote:
>> 
>> Can't open the attachment, but you would normally use one of the two the chocks 
>> forward of the bow cleat. 
>> RIC
>> DADVENTURE
>> 
>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> <a href="http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list">ric at 
>> stottarchitecture.com</a> 
>> O -631-283-1777
>> C- 516-965-3164
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Oct 26 12:26:29 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 16:26:29 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single bow cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect how a boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on the boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include wind and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of windage ( i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or rudder up or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line chocks are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the stanchions on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat thru one or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru these line chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer to the boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing on the anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line chocks; then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from dock lines.

One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode thru a locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to the trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line chocks, and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point is about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your anchor scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:

Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route your anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water, you have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would have to let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor rode thru the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment point's height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to achieve the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of anchor rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a crowded anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or, you can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 = 8.27 scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope ratio makes your anchor less likely to drag.

This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

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-------------- next part --------------
Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a single cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way to run the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions? If I do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem good. Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts the pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I?ve read where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc. but I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of the bow.

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Thu Oct 26 13:30:22 2023
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 13:30:22 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002101da0832$1a0bd120$4e237360$@ebsmed.com>

The image "extension" was .bin. It is actually an .heic image. I converted it to a jpg and it is attached.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Mitch Mitchell
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

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-------------- next part --------------
Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a single cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way to run the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions? If I do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem good. Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts the pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I?ve read where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc. but I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of the bow.
-------------- next part --------------
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From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Thu Oct 26 14:36:00 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 14:36:00 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Roger,

The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is that
you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy weather.
The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the rode
to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail.  You can do all
that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the edge of
the deck.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
wrote:

> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single bow
> cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect how a
> boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on the
> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include wind
> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of windage (
> i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or rudder up
> or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line chocks
> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the stanchions
> on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat thru one
> or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru these line
> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer to the
> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing on the
> anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line chocks;
> then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from dock
> lines.
>
> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode thru a
> locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to the
> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line chocks,
> and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point is
> about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your anchor
> scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:
>
> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route your
> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water, you
> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would have to
> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor rode thru
> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment point's
> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to achieve
> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of anchor
> rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a crowded
> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or, you
> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 = 8.27
> scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope ratio
> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
>
> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Anchor.heic
> Type: image/heic
> Size: 22840 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: <
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Frhodes22.org%2Fpipermail%2Frhodes22-list%2Fattachments%2F20231026%2F8ba83f88%2Fattachment.bin&data=05%7C01%7C%7C15817d822edc4e34082608dbd6311c40%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638339278861020787%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=hMMaV0qpios2%2FfWQvE4pEeOWUQToXBGT5%2BZIAw77AuQ%3D&reserved=0
> <
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
> >>
> -------------- next part --------------
> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a single
> cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way to run
> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions? If I
> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem good.
> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts the
> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I?ve read
> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc. but
> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of the
> bow.
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Oct 26 15:04:44 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 19:04:44 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Rick,

Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the anchor rode thru the carabiner once.  After that, you use the boat hook to handle the anchor rode.  It?s no worse than any other time you need to be on the bow handling the anchor.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Hi Roger,
>
> The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is that
> you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy weather.
> The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the rode
> to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail.  You can do all
> that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the edge of
> the deck.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single bow
>> cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect how a
>> boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on the
>> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include wind
>> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of windage (
>> i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
>> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or rudder up
>> or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
>> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line chocks
>> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the stanchions
>> on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat thru one
>> or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru these line
>> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer to the
>> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing on the
>> anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line chocks;
>> then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from dock
>> lines.
>>
>> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode thru a
>> locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to the
>> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line chocks,
>> and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point is
>> about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your anchor
>> scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:
>>
>> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route your
>> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water, you
>> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would have to
>> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor rode thru
>> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment point's
>> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to achieve
>> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of anchor
>> rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a crowded
>> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or, you
>> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 = 8.27
>> scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope ratio
>> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
>>
>> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>>
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: Anchor.heic
>> Type: image/heic
>> Size: 22840 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> URL: <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
>> <
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
>>>>
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a single
>> cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way to run
>> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions? If I
>> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem good.
>> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts the
>> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I?ve read
>> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc. but
>> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of the
>> bow.
>>

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Thu Oct 26 16:07:36 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 16:07:36 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>

Roger,

The boat hook and carabiner are unnecessary complications.  And
complications threaten safety.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:14?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the anchor
> rode thru the carabiner once.  After that, you use the boat hook to handle
> the anchor rode.  It?s no worse than any other time you need to be on the
> bow handling the anchor.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hi Roger,
> >
> > The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is that
> > you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy weather.
> > The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the rode
> > to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail.  You can do all
> > that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the edge
> of
> > the deck.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Rick Lange
> >
> >
> >> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single bow
> >> cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect
> how a
> >> boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on the
> >> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include wind
> >> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of windage (
> >> i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
> >> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or rudder
> up
> >> or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
> >> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line chocks
> >> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the
> stanchions
> >> on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat thru
> one
> >> or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru these
> line
> >> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer to
> the
> >> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing on
> the
> >> anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line
> chocks;
> >> then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from dock
> >> lines.
> >>
> >> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode
> thru a
> >> locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to the
> >> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line
> chocks,
> >> and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point is
> >> about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your anchor
> >> scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:
> >>
> >> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route your
> >> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water, you
> >> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would
> have to
> >> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor rode
> thru
> >> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment
> point's
> >> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to
> achieve
> >> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of
> anchor
> >> rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a
> crowded
> >> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or, you
> >> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 = 8.27
> >> scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope ratio
> >> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
> >>
> >> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
> >> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >>
> >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >> Name: Anchor.heic
> >> Type: image/heic
> >> Size: 22840 bytes
> >> Desc: not available
> >> URL: <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
> >> <
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
> >>>>
> >> -------------- next part --------------
> >> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a single
> >> cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way to
> run
> >> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions?
> If I
> >> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem
> good.
> >> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts
> the
> >> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I?ve
> read
> >> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc.
> but
> >> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of the
> >> bow.
> >>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Oct 26 16:24:01 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 20:24:01 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

OK Rick,

I?ve given the reasons why it?s desirable to anchor using a carabiner and the bow eye.  These are based upon sound physics and they will improve the anchor holding or shrink the swing radius EVERY SINGLE TIME!  If you want to reject it because you might trip and fall overboard, that?s your prerogative.  How often do you have to set the anchor in heavy weather?  Don?t you think these are the very conditions wherein better anchor holding is highly desirable?  Good luck

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2023, at 4:08?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Roger,
>
> The boat hook and carabiner are unnecessary complications.  And
> complications threaten safety.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:14?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> Rick,
>>
>> Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the anchor
>> rode thru the carabiner once.  After that, you use the boat hook to handle
>> the anchor rode.  It?s no worse than any other time you need to be on the
>> bow handling the anchor.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?Hi Roger,
>>>
>>> The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is that
>>> you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy weather.
>>> The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the rode
>>> to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail.  You can do all
>>> that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the edge
>> of
>>> the deck.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Rick Lange
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single bow
>>>> cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect
>> how a
>>>> boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on the
>>>> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include wind
>>>> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of windage (
>>>> i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
>>>> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or rudder
>> up
>>>> or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
>>>> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line chocks
>>>> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the
>> stanchions
>>>> on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat thru
>> one
>>>> or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru these
>> line
>>>> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer to
>> the
>>>> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing on
>> the
>>>> anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line
>> chocks;
>>>> then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from dock
>>>> lines.
>>>>
>>>> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode
>> thru a
>>>> locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to the
>>>> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line
>> chocks,
>>>> and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point is
>>>> about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your anchor
>>>> scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:
>>>>
>>>> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route your
>>>> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water, you
>>>> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would
>> have to
>>>> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor rode
>> thru
>>>> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment
>> point's
>>>> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to
>> achieve
>>>> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of
>> anchor
>>>> rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a
>> crowded
>>>> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or, you
>>>> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 = 8.27
>>>> scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope ratio
>>>> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
>>>>
>>>> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
>>>>
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>
>>>> ________________________________
>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
>>>> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>>>>
>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>> Name: Anchor.heic
>>>> Type: image/heic
>>>> Size: 22840 bytes
>>>> Desc: not available
>>>> URL: <
>>>>
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
>>>> <
>>>>
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
>>>>>>
>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a single
>>>> cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way to
>> run
>>>> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions?
>> If I
>>>> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem
>> good.
>>>> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts
>> the
>>>> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I?ve
>> read
>>>> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc.
>> but
>>>> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of the
>>>> bow.
>>>>
>>

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Thu Oct 26 17:25:11 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 17:25:11 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>

The worst experience was 150 yd out from a breakwall protecting the marina
entrance I was headed toward in 20 Kt wind. When my windward upper shroud
chainplate let go, I KISS anchored because I was also out of gas..  I
managed to call for a tow anchored only 25 yd from the rocks.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 4:34?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> OK Rick,
>
> I?ve given the reasons why it?s desirable to anchor using a carabiner and
> the bow eye.  These are based upon sound physics and they will improve the
> anchor holding or shrink the swing radius EVERY SINGLE TIME!  If you want
> to reject it because you might trip and fall overboard, that?s your
> prerogative.  How often do you have to set the anchor in heavy weather?
> Don?t you think these are the very conditions wherein better anchor holding
> is highly desirable?  Good luck
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 26, 2023, at 4:08?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?Roger,
> >
> > The boat hook and carabiner are unnecessary complications.  And
> > complications threaten safety.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Rick Lange
> >
> >
> >> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:14?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Rick,
> >>
> >> Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the
> anchor
> >> rode thru the carabiner once.  After that, you use the boat hook to
> handle
> >> the anchor rode.  It?s no worse than any other time you need to be on
> the
> >> bow handling the anchor.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Hi Roger,
> >>>
> >>> The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is
> that
> >>> you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy
> weather.
> >>> The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the
> rode
> >>> to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail.  You can do
> all
> >>> that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the
> edge
> >> of
> >>> the deck.
> >>>
> >>> Regards,
> >>>
> >>> Rick Lange
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com
> >
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single bow
> >>>> cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect
> >> how a
> >>>> boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on
> the
> >>>> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include
> wind
> >>>> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of
> windage (
> >>>> i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
> >>>> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or
> rudder
> >> up
> >>>> or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
> >>>> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line
> chocks
> >>>> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the
> >> stanchions
> >>>> on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat thru
> >> one
> >>>> or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru these
> >> line
> >>>> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer to
> >> the
> >>>> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing
> on
> >> the
> >>>> anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line
> >> chocks;
> >>>> then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from
> dock
> >>>> lines.
> >>>>
> >>>> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode
> >> thru a
> >>>> locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to the
> >>>> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line
> >> chocks,
> >>>> and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point is
> >>>> about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your anchor
> >>>> scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:
> >>>>
> >>>> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route your
> >>>> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water,
> you
> >>>> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would
> >> have to
> >>>> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor rode
> >> thru
> >>>> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment
> >> point's
> >>>> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to
> >> achieve
> >>>> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of
> >> anchor
> >>>> rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a
> >> crowded
> >>>> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or,
> you
> >>>> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 =
> 8.27
> >>>> scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope
> ratio
> >>>> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
> >>>>
> >>>> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>>
> >>>> ________________________________
> >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>>> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> >>>> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
> >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >>>>
> >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >>>> Name: Anchor.heic
> >>>> Type: image/heic
> >>>> Size: 22840 bytes
> >>>> Desc: not available
> >>>> URL: <
> >>>>
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
> >>>> <
> >>>>
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
> >>>>>>
> >>>> -------------- next part --------------
> >>>> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a
> single
> >>>> cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way to
> >> run
> >>>> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions?
> >> If I
> >>>> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem
> >> good.
> >>>> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts
> >> the
> >>>> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I?ve
> >> read
> >>>> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc.
> >> but
> >>>> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of
> the
> >>>> bow.
> >>>>
> >>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Oct 26 17:44:13 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 21:44:13 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Rick,

Just because you use a carabiner and the bow trailer eye for routine anchoring doesn?t preclude going directly to the bow chock and cleat in an emergency.  For every emergency situation I can cite you 50 routine situations wherein a smaller swing radius or better anchor holding helps us get a better night?s sleep.  I offer my anchoring technique for those of us that are confident in our ability to use a boat hook and don?t have a panic attack when they go to the bow.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2023, at 5:26?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?The worst experience was 150 yd out from a breakwall protecting the marina
> entrance I was headed toward in 20 Kt wind. When my windward upper shroud
> chainplate let go, I KISS anchored because I was also out of gas..  I
> managed to call for a tow anchored only 25 yd from the rocks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 4:34?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> OK Rick,
>>
>> I?ve given the reasons why it?s desirable to anchor using a carabiner and
>> the bow eye.  These are based upon sound physics and they will improve the
>> anchor holding or shrink the swing radius EVERY SINGLE TIME!  If you want
>> to reject it because you might trip and fall overboard, that?s your
>> prerogative.  How often do you have to set the anchor in heavy weather?
>> Don?t you think these are the very conditions wherein better anchor holding
>> is highly desirable?  Good luck
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 4:08?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?Roger,
>>>
>>> The boat hook and carabiner are unnecessary complications.  And
>>> complications threaten safety.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Rick Lange
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:14?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Rick,
>>>>
>>>> Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the
>> anchor
>>>> rode thru the carabiner once.  After that, you use the boat hook to
>> handle
>>>> the anchor rode.  It?s no worse than any other time you need to be on
>> the
>>>> bow handling the anchor.
>>>>
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> ?Hi Roger,
>>>>>
>>>>> The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is
>> that
>>>>> you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy
>> weather.
>>>>> The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the
>> rode
>>>>> to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail.  You can do
>> all
>>>>> that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the
>> edge
>>>> of
>>>>> the deck.
>>>>>
>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>
>>>>> Rick Lange
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com
>>>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single bow
>>>>>> cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect
>>>> how a
>>>>>> boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on
>> the
>>>>>> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include
>> wind
>>>>>> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of
>> windage (
>>>>>> i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
>>>>>> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or
>> rudder
>>>> up
>>>>>> or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
>>>>>> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line
>> chocks
>>>>>> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the
>>>> stanchions
>>>>>> on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat thru
>>>> one
>>>>>> or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru these
>>>> line
>>>>>> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer to
>>>> the
>>>>>> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing
>> on
>>>> the
>>>>>> anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line
>>>> chocks;
>>>>>> then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from
>> dock
>>>>>> lines.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode
>>>> thru a
>>>>>> locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to the
>>>>>> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line
>>>> chocks,
>>>>>> and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point is
>>>>>> about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your anchor
>>>>>> scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route your
>>>>>> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water,
>> you
>>>>>> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would
>>>> have to
>>>>>> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor rode
>>>> thru
>>>>>> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment
>>>> point's
>>>>>> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to
>>>> achieve
>>>>>> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of
>>>> anchor
>>>>>> rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a
>>>> crowded
>>>>>> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or,
>> you
>>>>>> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 =
>> 8.27
>>>>>> scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope
>> ratio
>>>>>> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>>>>> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
>>>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>>>>>>
>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>>>> Name: Anchor.heic
>>>>>> Type: image/heic
>>>>>> Size: 22840 bytes
>>>>>> Desc: not available
>>>>>> URL: <
>>>>>>
>>>>
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
>>>>>> <
>>>>>>
>>>>
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>>>> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a
>> single
>>>>>> cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way to
>>>> run
>>>>>> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions?
>>>> If I
>>>>>> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem
>>>> good.
>>>>>> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts
>>>> the
>>>>>> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I?ve
>>>> read
>>>>>> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc.
>>>> but
>>>>>> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of
>> the
>>>>>> bow.
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>

From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Thu Oct 26 21:30:54 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 21:30:54 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFTyJNXgmhaVsu4P9GdKoBRWT1ywAyjz1Kz+ZOoaembOkGNTJw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for all of the Info and viewpoints! Looks like I'm going to have to
install some chocks and then try some different anchoring techniques. I'll
look through the archives and see if anyone has posted about installing
chocks. I guess they will need some sort of backing plate. If anyone knows
the size and could let me know that would be great. Thanks again! By the
way, [image: DSC_7762.jpg]
had a beautiful sail on Assawoman Bay today!

On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 5:25?PM Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:

> The worst experience was 150 yd out from a breakwall protecting the marina
> entrance I was headed toward in 20 Kt wind. When my windward upper shroud
> chainplate let go, I KISS anchored because I was also out of gas..  I
> managed to call for a tow anchored only 25 yd from the rocks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 4:34?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > OK Rick,
> >
> > I?ve given the reasons why it?s desirable to anchor using a carabiner and
> > the bow eye.  These are based upon sound physics and they will improve
> the
> > anchor holding or shrink the swing radius EVERY SINGLE TIME!  If you want
> > to reject it because you might trip and fall overboard, that?s your
> > prerogative.  How often do you have to set the anchor in heavy weather?
> > Don?t you think these are the very conditions wherein better anchor
> holding
> > is highly desirable?  Good luck
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Oct 26, 2023, at 4:08?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > ?Roger,
> > >
> > > The boat hook and carabiner are unnecessary complications.  And
> > > complications threaten safety.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Rick Lange
> > >
> > >
> > >> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:14?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Rick,
> > >>
> > >> Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the
> > anchor
> > >> rode thru the carabiner once.  After that, you use the boat hook to
> > handle
> > >> the anchor rode.  It?s no worse than any other time you need to be on
> > the
> > >> bow handling the anchor.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> ?Hi Roger,
> > >>>
> > >>> The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is
> > that
> > >>> you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy
> > weather.
> > >>> The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the
> > rode
> > >>> to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail.  You can do
> > all
> > >>> that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the
> > edge
> > >> of
> > >>> the deck.
> > >>>
> > >>> Regards,
> > >>>
> > >>> Rick Lange
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
> roger_pihlaja at msn.com
> > >
> > >>>> wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single
> bow
> > >>>> cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect
> > >> how a
> > >>>> boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on
> > the
> > >>>> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include
> > wind
> > >>>> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of
> > windage (
> > >>>> i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
> > >>>> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or
> > rudder
> > >> up
> > >>>> or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
> > >>>> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line
> > chocks
> > >>>> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the
> > >> stanchions
> > >>>> on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat
> thru
> > >> one
> > >>>> or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru
> these
> > >> line
> > >>>> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer
> to
> > >> the
> > >>>> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing
> > on
> > >> the
> > >>>> anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line
> > >> chocks;
> > >>>> then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from
> > dock
> > >>>> lines.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode
> > >> thru a
> > >>>> locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to
> the
> > >>>> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line
> > >> chocks,
> > >>>> and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point
> is
> > >>>> about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your
> anchor
> > >>>> scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route
> your
> > >>>> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water,
> > you
> > >>>> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would
> > >> have to
> > >>>> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor
> rode
> > >> thru
> > >>>> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment
> > >> point's
> > >>>> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to
> > >> achieve
> > >>>> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of
> > >> anchor
> > >>>> rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a
> > >> crowded
> > >>>> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or,
> > you
> > >>>> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 =
> > 8.27
> > >>>> scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope
> > ratio
> > >>>> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> > >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >>>>
> > >>>> ________________________________
> > >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
> of
> > >>>> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> > >>>> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
> > >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> > >>>>
> > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >>>> Name: Anchor.heic
> > >>>> Type: image/heic
> > >>>> Size: 22840 bytes
> > >>>> Desc: not available
> > >>>> URL: <
> > >>>>
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
> > >>>> <
> > >>>>
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>> -------------- next part --------------
> > >>>> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a
> > single
> > >>>> cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way
> to
> > >> run
> > >>>> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit
> stanchions?
> > >> If I
> > >>>> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem
> > >> good.
> > >>>> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That
> puts
> > >> the
> > >>>> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side.
> I?ve
> > >> read
> > >>>> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks
> etc.
> > >> but
> > >>>> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of
> > the
> > >>>> bow.
> > >>>>
> > >>
> >
>
-------------- next part --------------
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URL: <http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8eb93baf/attachment.jpg>

From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Thu Oct 26 21:32:21 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 21:32:21 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFTyJNWkUeLRqO-yAp3pmUJNWRmw0BMJ4AjtMWJjLPXr570+3A@mail.gmail.com>

Wow! Sounds dicey!

On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 5:25?PM Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:

> The worst experience was 150 yd out from a breakwall protecting the marina
> entrance I was headed toward in 20 Kt wind. When my windward upper shroud
> chainplate let go, I KISS anchored because I was also out of gas..  I
> managed to call for a tow anchored only 25 yd from the rocks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 4:34?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > OK Rick,
> >
> > I?ve given the reasons why it?s desirable to anchor using a carabiner and
> > the bow eye.  These are based upon sound physics and they will improve
> the
> > anchor holding or shrink the swing radius EVERY SINGLE TIME!  If you want
> > to reject it because you might trip and fall overboard, that?s your
> > prerogative.  How often do you have to set the anchor in heavy weather?
> > Don?t you think these are the very conditions wherein better anchor
> holding
> > is highly desirable?  Good luck
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Oct 26, 2023, at 4:08?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > ?Roger,
> > >
> > > The boat hook and carabiner are unnecessary complications.  And
> > > complications threaten safety.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Rick Lange
> > >
> > >
> > >> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:14?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> > wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Rick,
> > >>
> > >> Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the
> > anchor
> > >> rode thru the carabiner once.  After that, you use the boat hook to
> > handle
> > >> the anchor rode.  It?s no worse than any other time you need to be on
> > the
> > >> bow handling the anchor.
> > >>
> > >> Roger Pihlaja
> > >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >>
> > >> Sent from my iPhone
> > >>
> > >>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> > >> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> ?Hi Roger,
> > >>>
> > >>> The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is
> > that
> > >>> you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy
> > weather.
> > >>> The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the
> > rode
> > >>> to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail.  You can do
> > all
> > >>> that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the
> > edge
> > >> of
> > >>> the deck.
> > >>>
> > >>> Regards,
> > >>>
> > >>> Rick Lange
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
> roger_pihlaja at msn.com
> > >
> > >>>> wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single
> bow
> > >>>> cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect
> > >> how a
> > >>>> boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on
> > the
> > >>>> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include
> > wind
> > >>>> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of
> > windage (
> > >>>> i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
> > >>>> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or
> > rudder
> > >> up
> > >>>> or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
> > >>>> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line
> > chocks
> > >>>> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the
> > >> stanchions
> > >>>> on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat
> thru
> > >> one
> > >>>> or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru
> these
> > >> line
> > >>>> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer
> to
> > >> the
> > >>>> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing
> > on
> > >> the
> > >>>> anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line
> > >> chocks;
> > >>>> then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from
> > dock
> > >>>> lines.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode
> > >> thru a
> > >>>> locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to
> the
> > >>>> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line
> > >> chocks,
> > >>>> and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point
> is
> > >>>> about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your
> anchor
> > >>>> scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route
> your
> > >>>> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water,
> > you
> > >>>> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would
> > >> have to
> > >>>> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor
> rode
> > >> thru
> > >>>> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment
> > >> point's
> > >>>> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to
> > >> achieve
> > >>>> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of
> > >> anchor
> > >>>> rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a
> > >> crowded
> > >>>> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or,
> > you
> > >>>> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 =
> > 8.27
> > >>>> scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope
> > ratio
> > >>>> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> > >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > >>>>
> > >>>> ________________________________
> > >>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
> of
> > >>>> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> > >>>> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
> > >>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > >>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> > >>>>
> > >>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > >>>> Name: Anchor.heic
> > >>>> Type: image/heic
> > >>>> Size: 22840 bytes
> > >>>> Desc: not available
> > >>>> URL: <
> > >>>>
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
> > >>>> <
> > >>>>
> > >>
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>> -------------- next part --------------
> > >>>> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a
> > single
> > >>>> cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way
> to
> > >> run
> > >>>> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit
> stanchions?
> > >> If I
> > >>>> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem
> > >> good.
> > >>>> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That
> puts
> > >> the
> > >>>> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side.
> I?ve
> > >> read
> > >>>> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks
> etc.
> > >> but
> > >>>> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of
> > the
> > >>>> bow.
> > >>>>
> > >>
> >
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Thu Oct 26 22:07:18 2023
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 19:07:18 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
Message-ID: <E1qwCFq-005Wv9-0r@s152.servername.online>

Mitch,

Theres a thread back in April of 2013 about mounting bow chocks that may have some useful info.  You can start here: http://www.rhodes22.org/email-archives.html

If you mount the chocks to the toe rail, which I think would be the way to go, there would be no way to use a backing plate.  But the toe rail is solid fiberglass, so there's no worry about water seeping in to damage a wooden core.  

At least I'm pretty sure that's true.  I'm mostly posting this to encourage others to offer opinions  on mounting options.

--Peter 

> On 2023-10-26, at 21:30:54 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
>
> Thanks for all of the Info and viewpoints! Looks like I'm going to have to 
> install some chocks and then try some different anchoring techniques. I'll look 
> through the archives and see if anyone has posted about installing chocks. I 
> guess they will need some sort of backing plate. If anyone knows the size and 
> could let me know that would be great. Thanks again! By the way, [image: 
> DSC_7762.jpg] 
> had a beautiful sail on Assawoman Bay today!
> 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8eb93baf/attachment.jpg" 
> target="_blank">DSC_7762.jpg</a> 
> 


From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Thu Oct 26 22:28:43 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2023 22:28:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <E1qwCFq-005Wv9-0r@s152.servername.online>
References: <E1qwCFq-005Wv9-0r@s152.servername.online>
Message-ID: <CAFTyJNXZ1uNPKToqgdKhA_JgizpcxPpVAhjxvg4X6NZYWvReoQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Peter, I'll check it out!

On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 10:07?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
wrote:

> Mitch,
>
> Theres a thread back in April of 2013 about mounting bow chocks that may
> have some useful info.  You can start here:
> http://www.rhodes22.org/email-archives.html
>
> If you mount the chocks to the toe rail, which I think would be the way to
> go, there would be no way to use a backing plate.  But the toe rail is
> solid fiberglass, so there's no worry about water seeping in to damage a
> wooden core.
>
> At least I'm pretty sure that's true.  I'm mostly posting this to
> encourage others to offer opinions  on mounting options.
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2023-10-26, at 21:30:54 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for all of the Info and viewpoints! Looks like I'm going to have
> to
> > install some chocks and then try some different anchoring techniques.
> I'll look
> > through the archives and see if anyone has posted about installing
> chocks. I
> > guess they will need some sort of backing plate. If anyone knows the
> size and
> > could let me know that would be great. Thanks again! By the way, [image:
> > DSC_7762.jpg]
> > had a beautiful sail on Assawoman Bay today!
> >
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8eb93baf/attachment.jpg"
>
> > target="_blank">DSC_7762.jpg</a>
> >
>
>

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Fri Oct 27 12:14:50 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2023 12:14:50 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Roger,

Practicing 50 times how to drop your anchor quickly and safely when not in
a panic means you're more likely to do it right when in a panic.

If you need more swing room, use a longer rode.  A 20' chain will keep your
anchor lying down for a 2 ton boat.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 5:53?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> Just because you use a carabiner and the bow trailer eye for routine
> anchoring doesn?t preclude going directly to the bow chock and cleat in an
> emergency.  For every emergency situation I can cite you 50 routine
> situations wherein a smaller swing radius or better anchor holding helps us
> get a better night?s sleep.  I offer my anchoring technique for those of us
> that are confident in our ability to use a boat hook and don?t have a panic
> attack when they go to the bow.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 26, 2023, at 5:26?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?The worst experience was 150 yd out from a breakwall protecting the
> marina
> > entrance I was headed toward in 20 Kt wind. When my windward upper shroud
> > chainplate let go, I KISS anchored because I was also out of gas..  I
> > managed to call for a tow anchored only 25 yd from the rocks.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Rick Lange
> >
> >
> >> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 4:34?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> OK Rick,
> >>
> >> I?ve given the reasons why it?s desirable to anchor using a carabiner
> and
> >> the bow eye.  These are based upon sound physics and they will improve
> the
> >> anchor holding or shrink the swing radius EVERY SINGLE TIME!  If you
> want
> >> to reject it because you might trip and fall overboard, that?s your
> >> prerogative.  How often do you have to set the anchor in heavy weather?
> >> Don?t you think these are the very conditions wherein better anchor
> holding
> >> is highly desirable?  Good luck
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 4:08?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> ?Roger,
> >>>
> >>> The boat hook and carabiner are unnecessary complications.  And
> >>> complications threaten safety.
> >>>
> >>> Regards,
> >>>
> >>> Rick Lange
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:14?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Rick,
> >>>>
> >>>> Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the
> >> anchor
> >>>> rode thru the carabiner once.  After that, you use the boat hook to
> >> handle
> >>>> the anchor rode.  It?s no worse than any other time you need to be on
> >> the
> >>>> bow handling the anchor.
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> ?Hi Roger,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is
> >> that
> >>>>> you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy
> >> weather.
> >>>>> The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the
> >> rode
> >>>>> to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail.  You can do
> >> all
> >>>>> that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the
> >> edge
> >>>> of
> >>>>> the deck.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Regards,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Rick Lange
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
> roger_pihlaja at msn.com
> >>>
> >>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single
> bow
> >>>>>> cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect
> >>>> how a
> >>>>>> boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on
> >> the
> >>>>>> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include
> >> wind
> >>>>>> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of
> >> windage (
> >>>>>> i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
> >>>>>> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or
> >> rudder
> >>>> up
> >>>>>> or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
> >>>>>> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line
> >> chocks
> >>>>>> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the
> >>>> stanchions
> >>>>>> on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat
> thru
> >>>> one
> >>>>>> or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru
> these
> >>>> line
> >>>>>> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer
> to
> >>>> the
> >>>>>> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing
> >> on
> >>>> the
> >>>>>> anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line
> >>>> chocks;
> >>>>>> then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from
> >> dock
> >>>>>> lines.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode
> >>>> thru a
> >>>>>> locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to
> the
> >>>>>> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line
> >>>> chocks,
> >>>>>> and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point
> is
> >>>>>> about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your
> anchor
> >>>>>> scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route
> your
> >>>>>> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water,
> >> you
> >>>>>> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would
> >>>> have to
> >>>>>> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor
> rode
> >>>> thru
> >>>>>> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment
> >>>> point's
> >>>>>> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to
> >>>> achieve
> >>>>>> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of
> >>>> anchor
> >>>>>> rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a
> >>>> crowded
> >>>>>> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or,
> >> you
> >>>>>> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 =
> >> 8.27
> >>>>>> scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope
> >> ratio
> >>>>>> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> ________________________________
> >>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
> of
> >>>>>> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> >>>>>> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
> >>>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> >>>>>> Name: Anchor.heic
> >>>>>> Type: image/heic
> >>>>>> Size: 22840 bytes
> >>>>>> Desc: not available
> >>>>>> URL: <
> >>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
> >>>>>> <
> >>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>> -------------- next part --------------
> >>>>>> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a
> >> single
> >>>>>> cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way
> to
> >>>> run
> >>>>>> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit
> stanchions?
> >>>> If I
> >>>>>> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem
> >>>> good.
> >>>>>> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That
> puts
> >>>> the
> >>>>>> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side.
> I?ve
> >>>> read
> >>>>>> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks
> etc.
> >>>> but
> >>>>>> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of
> >> the
> >>>>>> bow.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Oct 27 13:03:54 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2023 17:03:54 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Rick,

For those of us that actually stay overnight at anchor, there are two major issues we worry about:
1: Is my anchor going to drag?
2: If the wind or current shifts, is my swing circle going to interfere with the boats anchored around me?

With a given anchor type and anchor rode configuration, the best way to reduce the chance of dragging anchor is to increase the scope ratio.  With a small boat, like a Rhodes 22, an all chain anchor rode is simply too heavy to be a practical option.  I use a boat length of chain connected to 150 ft of 3/8 inch diameter three strand nylon rode.

The best way to assure your swing circle isn?t going to interfere with other boats is to make your swing radius as small as possible, with an acceptable scope ratio.  Why would I want to make my swing radius bigger?  The reality of small sailboat cruising is that we tend to arrive at an anchorage late in the day.  By this time, the power boats have already dropped their hooks for the evening.  We often have to find a place among the boats that are already in place and the newcomer always has to yield right of way.  Having a small swing radius lets us squeeze in where most boats could not.

My suggested anchoring technique enables one or the other of these issues to be optimized.  All other anchoring scenarios put together make up a very small % of the total use of your anchor.  I?m glad you were able to keep your boat off the rocks by emergency anchoring.  But, this scenario has very little to do with normal cruising.  Good seamanship would dictate that you inspect your rigging and pay attention to your fuel level so you don?t have to emergency anchor.  But, those are entirely separate issues.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 27, 2023, at 12:15?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?Hi Roger,
>
> Practicing 50 times how to drop your anchor quickly and safely when not in
> a panic means you're more likely to do it right when in a panic.
>
> If you need more swing room, use a longer rode.  A 20' chain will keep your
> anchor lying down for a 2 ton boat.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 5:53?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> Rick,
>>
>> Just because you use a carabiner and the bow trailer eye for routine
>> anchoring doesn?t preclude going directly to the bow chock and cleat in an
>> emergency.  For every emergency situation I can cite you 50 routine
>> situations wherein a smaller swing radius or better anchor holding helps us
>> get a better night?s sleep.  I offer my anchoring technique for those of us
>> that are confident in our ability to use a boat hook and don?t have a panic
>> attack when they go to the bow.
>>
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 5:26?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?The worst experience was 150 yd out from a breakwall protecting the
>> marina
>>> entrance I was headed toward in 20 Kt wind. When my windward upper shroud
>>> chainplate let go, I KISS anchored because I was also out of gas..  I
>>> managed to call for a tow anchored only 25 yd from the rocks.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Rick Lange
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 4:34?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> OK Rick,
>>>>
>>>> I?ve given the reasons why it?s desirable to anchor using a carabiner
>> and
>>>> the bow eye.  These are based upon sound physics and they will improve
>> the
>>>> anchor holding or shrink the swing radius EVERY SINGLE TIME!  If you
>> want
>>>> to reject it because you might trip and fall overboard, that?s your
>>>> prerogative.  How often do you have to set the anchor in heavy weather?
>>>> Don?t you think these are the very conditions wherein better anchor
>> holding
>>>> is highly desirable?  Good luck
>>>>
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 4:08?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> ?Roger,
>>>>>
>>>>> The boat hook and carabiner are unnecessary complications.  And
>>>>> complications threaten safety.
>>>>>
>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>
>>>>> Rick Lange
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 3:14?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Rick,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Assuming you have a boat hook on board, you only need to thread the
>>>> anchor
>>>>>> rode thru the carabiner once.  After that, you use the boat hook to
>>>> handle
>>>>>> the anchor rode.  It?s no worse than any other time you need to be on
>>>> the
>>>>>> bow handling the anchor.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Oct 26, 2023, at 2:36?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ?Hi Roger,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The problem with running or tying the anchor rode to the bow eye is
>>>> that
>>>>>>> you can't safely sit in the bow pulpit and do that during heavy
>>>> weather.
>>>>>>> The best thing is to first run the rode through a bow chock, tie the
>>>> rode
>>>>>>> to the bow cleat, then drop the anchor from the bow rail.  You can do
>>>> all
>>>>>>> that sitting securely in the pulpit with your legs hanging over the
>>>> edge
>>>>>> of
>>>>>>> the deck.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Rick Lange
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:26?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <
>> roger_pihlaja at msn.com
>>>>>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single
>> bow
>>>>>>>> cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect
>>>>>> how a
>>>>>>>> boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on
>>>> the
>>>>>>>> boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include
>>>> wind
>>>>>>>> and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of
>>>> windage (
>>>>>>>> i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and
>>>>>>>> underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or
>>>> rudder
>>>>>> up
>>>>>>>> or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and
>>>>>>>> starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line
>>>> chocks
>>>>>>>> are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the
>>>>>> stanchions
>>>>>>>> on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat
>> thru
>>>>>> one
>>>>>>>> or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru
>> these
>>>>>> line
>>>>>>>> chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer
>> to
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing
>>>> on
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line
>>>>>> chocks;
>>>>>>>> then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from
>>>> dock
>>>>>>>> lines.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode
>>>>>> thru a
>>>>>>>> locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to
>> the
>>>>>>>> trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line
>>>>>> chocks,
>>>>>>>> and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point
>> is
>>>>>>>> about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your
>> anchor
>>>>>>>> scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route
>> your
>>>>>>>> anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water,
>>>> you
>>>>>>>> have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would
>>>>>> have to
>>>>>>>> let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor
>> rode
>>>>>> thru
>>>>>>>> the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment
>>>>>> point's
>>>>>>>> height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to
>>>>>> achieve
>>>>>>>> the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of
>>>>>> anchor
>>>>>>>> rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a
>>>>>> crowded
>>>>>>>> anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or,
>>>> you
>>>>>>>> can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 =
>>>> 8.27
>>>>>>>> scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope
>>>> ratio
>>>>>>>> makes your anchor less likely to drag.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>>>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> ________________________________
>>>>>>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf
>> of
>>>>>>>> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
>>>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
>>>>>>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>>>>>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>>>>>>>> Name: Anchor.heic
>>>>>>>> Type: image/heic
>>>>>>>> Size: 22840 bytes
>>>>>>>> Desc: not available
>>>>>>>> URL: <
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
>>>>>>>> <
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>
>> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231026/8ba83f88/attachment.bin
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>>>>>>> Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a
>>>> single
>>>>>>>> cleat centered on the bow and I?m trying to figure out the best way
>> to
>>>>>> run
>>>>>>>> the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit
>> stanchions?
>>>>>> If I
>>>>>>>> do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn?t seem
>>>>>> good.
>>>>>>>> Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That
>> puts
>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>> pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side.
>> I?ve
>>>>>> read
>>>>>>>> where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks
>> etc.
>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>> I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I?ve included an image of
>>>> the
>>>>>>>> bow.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Fri Oct 27 16:19:04 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2023 16:19:04 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>

Roger,

If you wake up dragging, it is likely you will need to quickly redeploy.
That's not easily and safely done in the dark with your anchor tackle
complications.  And any "optimizing" that ignores emergencies just leads to
a short life--and a lot of yelling.

I am not suggesting an all chain rode.  I am saying you need a 20' chain
between anchor and rope rode, as you have.  The rope should be no less than
7 times longer than the water depth.  If you can't find a spot that has
enough room, go to shore or to another anchorage.  Good seamanship is not
squeezing in.

One of the few faults with the R22 is that the chain plates cannot be
visually inspected.  Some on this list have opened inspection holes in the
cabin inside walls to make inspection possible.  The lower stays did their
backup job fine, however, reattaching the plate and repairing the hull was
expensive.

I ran out of gas trying to beat a storm that was not predicted.  The lesson
learned was to always carry a full reserve tank on the open lake.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 1:29?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> For those of us that actually stay overnight at anchor, there are two
> major issues we worry about:
> 1: Is my anchor going to drag?
> 2: If the wind or current shifts, is my swing circle going to interfere
> with the boats anchored around me?
>
> With a given anchor type and anchor rode configuration, the best way to
> reduce the chance of dragging anchor is to increase the scope ratio.  With
> a small boat, like a Rhodes 22, an all chain anchor rode is simply too
> heavy to be a practical option.  I use a boat length of chain connected to
> 150 ft of 3/8 inch diameter three strand nylon rode.
>
> The best way to assure your swing circle isn?t going to interfere with
> other boats is to make your swing radius as small as possible, with an
> acceptable scope ratio.  Why would I want to make my swing radius bigger?
> The reality of small sailboat cruising is that we tend to arrive at an
> anchorage late in the day.  By this time, the power boats have already
> dropped their hooks for the evening.  We often have to find a place among
> the boats that are already in place and the newcomer always has to yield
> right of way.  Having a small swing radius lets us squeeze in where most
> boats could not.
>
> My suggested anchoring technique enables one or the other of these issues
> to be optimized.  All other anchoring scenarios put together make up a very
> small % of the total use of your anchor.  I?m glad you were able to keep
> your boat off the rocks by emergency anchoring.  But, this scenario has
> very little to do with normal cruising.  Good seamanship would dictate that
> you inspect your rigging and pay attention to your fuel level so you don?t
> have to emergency anchor.  But, those are entirely separate issues.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Oct 27 16:44:38 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2023 20:44:38 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Rick,

What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk to the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a boat hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand over hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or the carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss, no fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the anchor is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace else or going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where the big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done much anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to anchor in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too late to go somewhere else.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 27, 2023, at 4:19?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Roger,
> 
> If you wake up dragging, it is likely you will need to quickly redeploy.
> That's not easily and safely done in the dark with your anchor tackle
> complications.  And any "optimizing" that ignores emergencies just leads to
> a short life--and a lot of yelling.
> 
> I am not suggesting an all chain rode.  I am saying you need a 20' chain
> between anchor and rope rode, as you have.  The rope should be no less than
> 7 times longer than the water depth.  If you can't find a spot that has
> enough room, go to shore or to another anchorage.  Good seamanship is not
> squeezing in.
> 
> One of the few faults with the R22 is that the chain plates cannot be
> visually inspected.  Some on this list have opened inspection holes in the
> cabin inside walls to make inspection possible.  The lower stays did their
> backup job fine, however, reattaching the plate and repairing the hull was
> expensive.
> 
> I ran out of gas trying to beat a storm that was not predicted.  The lesson
> learned was to always carry a full reserve tank on the open lake.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Rick Lange
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 1:29?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Rick,
>> 
>> For those of us that actually stay overnight at anchor, there are two
>> major issues we worry about:
>> 1: Is my anchor going to drag?
>> 2: If the wind or current shifts, is my swing circle going to interfere
>> with the boats anchored around me?
>> 
>> With a given anchor type and anchor rode configuration, the best way to
>> reduce the chance of dragging anchor is to increase the scope ratio.  With
>> a small boat, like a Rhodes 22, an all chain anchor rode is simply too
>> heavy to be a practical option.  I use a boat length of chain connected to
>> 150 ft of 3/8 inch diameter three strand nylon rode.
>> 
>> The best way to assure your swing circle isn?t going to interfere with
>> other boats is to make your swing radius as small as possible, with an
>> acceptable scope ratio.  Why would I want to make my swing radius bigger?
>> The reality of small sailboat cruising is that we tend to arrive at an
>> anchorage late in the day.  By this time, the power boats have already
>> dropped their hooks for the evening.  We often have to find a place among
>> the boats that are already in place and the newcomer always has to yield
>> right of way.  Having a small swing radius lets us squeeze in where most
>> boats could not.
>> 
>> My suggested anchoring technique enables one or the other of these issues
>> to be optimized.  All other anchoring scenarios put together make up a very
>> small % of the total use of your anchor.  I?m glad you were able to keep
>> your boat off the rocks by emergency anchoring.  But, this scenario has
>> very little to do with normal cruising.  Good seamanship would dictate that
>> you inspect your rigging and pay attention to your fuel level so you don?t
>> have to emergency anchor.  But, those are entirely separate issues.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Oct 27 18:21:33 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2023 22:21:33 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Rick,

Tell us more about how one of the upper side stay chainplates failed suddenly and without warning.  I agree it?s hard to inspect the way it?s glassed in.  However, if the FRP substrate failed, I would expect it would get ?mushy? first.  Similarly, if the stainless steel chainplate itself failed, I would expect it to gradually get weaker as the pitting and cracks extended.  Either mechanism would cause a situation wherein you would have issues with maintaining the shroud tension.  After every sail, the shroud would be loose.  Since you claim the failure happened suddenly without warning, please tell us what happened.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 27, 2023, at 4:44?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Rick,
> 
> What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk to the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a boat hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand over hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or the carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss, no fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the anchor is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace else or going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where the big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done much anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to anchor in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too late to go somewhere else.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 27, 2023, at 4:19?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Roger,
>> 
>> If you wake up dragging, it is likely you will need to quickly redeploy.
>> That's not easily and safely done in the dark with your anchor tackle
>> complications.  And any "optimizing" that ignores emergencies just leads to
>> a short life--and a lot of yelling.
>> 
>> I am not suggesting an all chain rode.  I am saying you need a 20' chain
>> between anchor and rope rode, as you have.  The rope should be no less than
>> 7 times longer than the water depth.  If you can't find a spot that has
>> enough room, go to shore or to another anchorage.  Good seamanship is not
>> squeezing in.
>> 
>> One of the few faults with the R22 is that the chain plates cannot be
>> visually inspected.  Some on this list have opened inspection holes in the
>> cabin inside walls to make inspection possible.  The lower stays did their
>> backup job fine, however, reattaching the plate and repairing the hull was
>> expensive.
>> 
>> I ran out of gas trying to beat a storm that was not predicted.  The lesson
>> learned was to always carry a full reserve tank on the open lake.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> Rick Lange
>> 
>> 
>>>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 1:29?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Rick,
>>> 
>>> For those of us that actually stay overnight at anchor, there are two
>>> major issues we worry about:
>>> 1: Is my anchor going to drag?
>>> 2: If the wind or current shifts, is my swing circle going to interfere
>>> with the boats anchored around me?
>>> 
>>> With a given anchor type and anchor rode configuration, the best way to
>>> reduce the chance of dragging anchor is to increase the scope ratio.  With
>>> a small boat, like a Rhodes 22, an all chain anchor rode is simply too
>>> heavy to be a practical option.  I use a boat length of chain connected to
>>> 150 ft of 3/8 inch diameter three strand nylon rode.
>>> 
>>> The best way to assure your swing circle isn?t going to interfere with
>>> other boats is to make your swing radius as small as possible, with an
>>> acceptable scope ratio.  Why would I want to make my swing radius bigger?
>>> The reality of small sailboat cruising is that we tend to arrive at an
>>> anchorage late in the day.  By this time, the power boats have already
>>> dropped their hooks for the evening.  We often have to find a place among
>>> the boats that are already in place and the newcomer always has to yield
>>> right of way.  Having a small swing radius lets us squeeze in where most
>>> boats could not.
>>> 
>>> My suggested anchoring technique enables one or the other of these issues
>>> to be optimized.  All other anchoring scenarios put together make up a very
>>> small % of the total use of your anchor.  I?m glad you were able to keep
>>> your boat off the rocks by emergency anchoring.  But, this scenario has
>>> very little to do with normal cruising.  Good seamanship would dictate that
>>> you inspect your rigging and pay attention to your fuel level so you don?t
>>> have to emergency anchor.  But, those are entirely separate issues.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> 

From jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com  Sat Oct 28 07:45:19 2023
From: jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com (Jeff Smith Photo)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 07:45:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
Message-ID: <CAM0HAm=7WNa2W25uS0hzT6RdCUi0E+z9PU7zCO5uU8KV==_nSQ@mail.gmail.com>

Fender washers and nylock nuts are all you should need to install chocks.
There is no real load on them.

Best Regards
Jeff Smith
www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net
732-236-1368

From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Sat Oct 28 08:11:19 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 08:11:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAM0HAm=7WNa2W25uS0hzT6RdCUi0E+z9PU7zCO5uU8KV==_nSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAM0HAm=7WNa2W25uS0hzT6RdCUi0E+z9PU7zCO5uU8KV==_nSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFTyJNWPb7W81HPZ3u2g9jM-ZA-jAwcnCbq_gZE0e-YESszb0Q@mail.gmail.com>

I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I can
just screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no
access to the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the
line will rub against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives
talking about using a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.

On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:46?AM Jeff Smith Photo <jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Fender washers and nylock nuts are all you should need to install chocks.
> There is no real load on them.
>
> Best Regards
> Jeff Smith
> www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net
> 732-236-1368
>

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Sat Oct 28 11:52:39 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 11:52:39 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36ZsEYVR0tqD1AnfpA9xrZrbBDAV1HHXjXgO7yvZWBv8_A@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Roger,

It was 10 or more years ago and I hired the repair, although I do recall
the plate itself did not fail and pulled clean out.  So it was the
fasteners or the bedding for them that failed.

I was beating hard into a heavy chop, winds about 20 kt.  That's a lot of
sway and pounding for the IMF mast.  Along with the repair, I added a
compression post and had stringers installed under the inner edges of the
cockpit benches.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 6:38?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> Tell us more about how one of the upper side stay chainplates failed
> suddenly and without warning.  I agree it?s hard to inspect the way it?s
> glassed in.  However, if the FRP substrate failed, I would expect it would
> get ?mushy? first.  Similarly, if the stainless steel chainplate itself
> failed, I would expect it to gradually get weaker as the pitting and cracks
> extended.  Either mechanism would cause a situation wherein you would have
> issues with maintaining the shroud tension.  After every sail, the shroud
> would be loose.  Since you claim the failure happened suddenly without
> warning, please tell us what happened.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> Sent from my iPhone
>

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Sat Oct 28 12:09:14 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 12:09:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36ZTc-sKNL0vaABTpwcRk9Z3Zs1_z6eQ9EGx-t1q_KCx6Q@mail.gmail.com>

Yelling comes from boats downwind you are dragging toward just because you
wanted to squeeze in by putting out too little rode.  And you're taking
forever to find your boat hook in the dark and rain, and to fish for the
rode you can't see underwater.

What's this about bringing the anchor aboard?  I'd rather walk into a
Japanese home with my shoes on!  The anchor is to be kept outboard hanging
from its bow rail bracket.  When just relocating in an anchorage, I also
leave the mucky chain dangling outboard from the hanging anchor.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 5:23?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk to
> the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a boat
> hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand over
> hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or the
> carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss, no
> fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the anchor
> is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace else or
> going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of
> shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where the
> big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine
> anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done much
> anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to anchor
> in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too
> late to go somewhere else.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>

From jpd9668 at gmail.com  Sat Oct 28 14:21:23 2023
From: jpd9668 at gmail.com (jpd9668)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 14:21:23 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAFTyJNWPb7W81HPZ3u2g9jM-ZA-jAwcnCbq_gZE0e-YESszb0Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <653d512b.9d0a0220.21694.49c8@mx.google.com>

I don't know if this thread is about Anchoring or Bow Chocks, so I'll comment on both.The friendly anchoring discussion is interesting. Roger is correct in that running Rode through Bow Eye would enable a shorter radius with the same amount of holding power. For me, with my back and hip pain, I just don't care to go through the contortions to crawl under the pulpit on my belly, squeezing around the furler and ventilator to reach the Bow Eye. I actually have (had) 30 feet of chain on the anchor and 120 feet of Rode.Must be a pre-GBI built Rhodes not to have Bow Chocks. I replaced mine with larger chocks to allow for spring lines. I used #12 or larger sheet metal screws and bedded with silicone bedding. There is no vertical stress on the chocks so no backing plates are really necessary.Joe DempseyTrojan 42 MYM.V. VoyagerEx-Rhodes 22S.V. RespiteDeltaville, VASent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> Date: 10/28/23  8:11 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I canjust screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is noaccess to the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck theline will rub against the toe rail.? I did see one message in the archivestalking about using a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:46?AM Jeff Smith Photo <jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com>wrote:> Fender washers and nylock nuts are all you should need to install chocks.> There is no real load on them.>> Best Regards> Jeff Smith> www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net> 732-236-1368>
-------------- next part --------------
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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Oct 28 15:32:23 2023
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 12:32:23 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
Message-ID: <E1qwp2l-004PGF-05@s152.servername.online>

Mitch,

Yes, you can just screw the chocks into the toe rail, but don't use 5200.  5200 is a 'forever' adhesive.  There a very few places that I would say it's use is appropriate, and this is certainly _not_ one.  The screws will do the work of holding the chocks in place.  

Since you'd just be screwing into fiberglass, I'd argue that even a sealant isn't really necessary. But if you decide to use one, get one from a marine supply store, not a home store.

I'd be a little generous in sizing the pilot hole for the screws.  You don't want to risk having the screws acting like wedges, and potentially splitting the toe-rail.

The message about using a tap was referring to the option of drilling holes, then tapping threads, and using bolts rather than screws.  On my boat, this approach was used for jib sheet tracks and winches.  If you don't have experience tapping threads, I'd stick to wood screws.  Hopefully, it goes without saying that the screws should be stainless steel.

--Peter

> On 2023-10-28, at 08:11:19 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
>
> I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I can just 
> screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no access to 
> the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the line will rub 
> against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives talking about using 
> a tap but couldn't really follow the technique. 
> 
> 


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Oct 28 17:07:31 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 21:07:31 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <E1qwp2l-004PGF-05@s152.servername.online>
References: <E1qwp2l-004PGF-05@s152.servername.online>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB66835CA32FC146F468F4345380A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Mitch,

I've never had to remove my bow line chocks.  So, just for snicks and grins, this afternoon, I pulled one of the fasteners to see how the factory attached them.  The fastener was a stainless steel 1/4" flat head X 2" long wood screw.  The screw was bedded in some sort of caulk and the toe rail is solid FRP.  When I reinstalled the screw, I used Boat Life Seal polyurethane/silicone sealant.  This bow line chock is loaded in compression and shear, not tension.  The wood screw is not likely to ever pull out.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 3:32 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Mitch,

Yes, you can just screw the chocks into the toe rail, but don't use 5200.  5200 is a 'forever' adhesive.  There a very few places that I would say it's use is appropriate, and this is certainly _not_ one.  The screws will do the work of holding the chocks in place.

Since you'd just be screwing into fiberglass, I'd argue that even a sealant isn't really necessary. But if you decide to use one, get one from a marine supply store, not a home store.

I'd be a little generous in sizing the pilot hole for the screws.  You don't want to risk having the screws acting like wedges, and potentially splitting the toe-rail.

The message about using a tap was referring to the option of drilling holes, then tapping threads, and using bolts rather than screws.  On my boat, this approach was used for jib sheet tracks and winches.  If you don't have experience tapping threads, I'd stick to wood screws.  Hopefully, it goes without saying that the screws should be stainless steel.

--Peter

> On 2023-10-28, at 08:11:19 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
>
> I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I can just
> screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no access to
> the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the line will rub
> against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives talking about using
> a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
>
>


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Oct 28 17:24:43 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 21:24:43 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36ZTc-sKNL0vaABTpwcRk9Z3Zs1_z6eQ9EGx-t1q_KCx6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZTc-sKNL0vaABTpwcRk9Z3Zs1_z6eQ9EGx-t1q_KCx6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB6683CD37A305EA6CE6668BB780A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Rick,

Boy, for somebody you've never met, you make a lot of assumptions about me and my boat.  First of all, my boat hook is always stored in a pair of Beckson Clipper Clips on the back wall of the cockpit just below the lazarette hatch.  I can easily find it in the dark.  Second, I always sleep with my camping headlight within easy reach.  Third, I always set a GPS anchor watch.  So, I would be awakened re a dragging anchor long before any of the boats around me noticed.  Actually, after many years of cruising, you get sensitive to the boat's motions and what a dragging anchor feels like.  The chances are, I'd be up on deck checking things out anyway.  I always take a couple of visual bearings on landmarks on shore to quickly detect if my boat has moved.  Fourth, the anchor rode is the only line extending out from the bow.  Even without my headlight, I could easily find it in the dark.  Just sweep the boat hook in front of the bow and it is bound to run into the anchor rode.

Look, this thread is really getting tiresome.  Anchor your boat however you please.  I'm just glad I don't have to deal with you in person.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium


________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 12:09 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Yelling comes from boats downwind you are dragging toward just because you
wanted to squeeze in by putting out too little rode.  And you're taking
forever to find your boat hook in the dark and rain, and to fish for the
rode you can't see underwater.

What's this about bringing the anchor aboard?  I'd rather walk into a
Japanese home with my shoes on!  The anchor is to be kept outboard hanging
from its bow rail bracket.  When just relocating in an anchorage, I also
leave the mucky chain dangling outboard from the hanging anchor.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 5:23?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk to
> the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a boat
> hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand over
> hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or the
> carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss, no
> fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the anchor
> is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace else or
> going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of
> shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where the
> big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine
> anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done much
> anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to anchor
> in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too
> late to go somewhere else.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Oct 28 17:32:26 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 21:32:26 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36ZsEYVR0tqD1AnfpA9xrZrbBDAV1HHXjXgO7yvZWBv8_A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZsEYVR0tqD1AnfpA9xrZrbBDAV1HHXjXgO7yvZWBv8_A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB6683D0D77D4072063A0E0E2D80A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Rick,

Do you recall if you were experiencing any issues with maintaining tension on the shrouds?  FRP does not normally just fail catastrophically like that with no warning.  20 knots of wind is well within the safe operating window for a Rhodes 22.  As a long time Rhodes 22 owner, I'm trying to understand if we've really got an issue here.  Remind me, how old was your Rhodes 22 at the time?  How long had you owned it?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 11:52 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Hi Roger,

It was 10 or more years ago and I hired the repair, although I do recall
the plate itself did not fail and pulled clean out.  So it was the
fasteners or the bedding for them that failed.

I was beating hard into a heavy chop, winds about 20 kt.  That's a lot of
sway and pounding for the IMF mast.  Along with the repair, I added a
compression post and had stringers installed under the inner edges of the
cockpit benches.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 6:38?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> Tell us more about how one of the upper side stay chainplates failed
> suddenly and without warning.  I agree it?s hard to inspect the way it?s
> glassed in.  However, if the FRP substrate failed, I would expect it would
> get ?mushy? first.  Similarly, if the stainless steel chainplate itself
> failed, I would expect it to gradually get weaker as the pitting and cracks
> extended.  Either mechanism would cause a situation wherein you would have
> issues with maintaining the shroud tension.  After every sail, the shroud
> would be loose.  Since you claim the failure happened suddenly without
> warning, please tell us what happened.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> Sent from my iPhone
>

From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Sat Oct 28 18:09:30 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 18:09:30 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB66835CA32FC146F468F4345380A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <E1qwp2l-004PGF-05@s152.servername.online>
 <CY8PR10MB66835CA32FC146F468F4345380A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFTyJNVLbMJETF2YGE9SK_zzGOLuZkYyd3g9mKQRhDyvtREspA@mail.gmail.com>

Awesome, that's very helpful. Do you recommend a specific size chock?
Thanks!!

On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:07?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Mitch,
>
> I've never had to remove my bow line chocks.  So, just for snicks and
> grins, this afternoon, I pulled one of the fasteners to see how the factory
> attached them.  The fastener was a stainless steel 1/4" flat head X 2" long
> wood screw.  The screw was bedded in some sort of caulk and the toe rail is
> solid FRP.  When I reinstalled the screw, I used Boat Life Seal
> polyurethane/silicone sealant.  This bow line chock is loaded in
> compression and shear, not tension.  The wood screw is not likely to ever
> pull out.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 3:32 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> Mitch,
>
> Yes, you can just screw the chocks into the toe rail, but don't use 5200.
> 5200 is a 'forever' adhesive.  There a very few places that I would say
> it's use is appropriate, and this is certainly _not_ one.  The screws will
> do the work of holding the chocks in place.
>
> Since you'd just be screwing into fiberglass, I'd argue that even a
> sealant isn't really necessary. But if you decide to use one, get one from
> a marine supply store, not a home store.
>
> I'd be a little generous in sizing the pilot hole for the screws.  You
> don't want to risk having the screws acting like wedges, and potentially
> splitting the toe-rail.
>
> The message about using a tap was referring to the option of drilling
> holes, then tapping threads, and using bolts rather than screws.  On my
> boat, this approach was used for jib sheet tracks and winches.  If you
> don't have experience tapping threads, I'd stick to wood screws.
> Hopefully, it goes without saying that the screws should be stainless steel.
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2023-10-28, at 08:11:19 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
> >
> > I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
> can just
> > screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no
> access to
> > the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the line will
> rub
> > against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives talking
> about using
> > a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
> >
> >
>
>

From bgarrant at gmail.com  Sat Oct 28 20:59:12 2023
From: bgarrant at gmail.com (Bob Garrant)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 20:59:12 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB6683D0D77D4072063A0E0E2D80A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66836958C879F84929920E4F80DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZsEYVR0tqD1AnfpA9xrZrbBDAV1HHXjXgO7yvZWBv8_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683D0D77D4072063A0E0E2D80A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAPi3tBDJaGUtZSWKN_CdN4Pp3+QG+pHw1T8AJcz2cm4-=dF3vw@mail.gmail.com>

I have to say that I have learned a lot about anchoring and a few other
things during the exchange between two fellow Rhodies. I think there are
good ideas from both sides so it?s up to each of us to apply these as we
feel appropriate.
Thanks very much for sharing your knowledge and your experience.

Bob Garrant
s/v Sail la Vie
Kent Island, MD



On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:32?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> Do you recall if you were experiencing any issues with maintaining tension
> on the shrouds?  FRP does not normally just fail catastrophically like that
> with no warning.  20 knots of wind is well within the safe operating window
> for a Rhodes 22.  As a long time Rhodes 22 owner, I'm trying to understand
> if we've really got an issue here.  Remind me, how old was your Rhodes 22
> at the time?  How long had you owned it?
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 11:52 AM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> Hi Roger,
>
> It was 10 or more years ago and I hired the repair, although I do recall
> the plate itself did not fail and pulled clean out.  So it was the
> fasteners or the bedding for them that failed.
>
> I was beating hard into a heavy chop, winds about 20 kt.  That's a lot of
> sway and pounding for the IMF mast.  Along with the repair, I added a
> compression post and had stringers installed under the inner edges of the
> cockpit benches.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 6:38?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Rick,
> >
> > Tell us more about how one of the upper side stay chainplates failed
> > suddenly and without warning.  I agree it?s hard to inspect the way it?s
> > glassed in.  However, if the FRP substrate failed, I would expect it
> would
> > get ?mushy? first.  Similarly, if the stainless steel chainplate itself
> > failed, I would expect it to gradually get weaker as the pitting and
> cracks
> > extended.  Either mechanism would cause a situation wherein you would
> have
> > issues with maintaining the shroud tension.  After every sail, the shroud
> > would be loose.  Since you claim the failure happened suddenly without
> > warning, please tell us what happened.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sat Oct 28 21:03:21 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 01:03:21 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAFTyJNVLbMJETF2YGE9SK_zzGOLuZkYyd3g9mKQRhDyvtREspA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1qwp2l-004PGF-05@s152.servername.online>
 <CY8PR10MB66835CA32FC146F468F4345380A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFTyJNVLbMJETF2YGE9SK_zzGOLuZkYyd3g9mKQRhDyvtREspA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB6683F44307EC3973FC0B8C1580A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Mitch

Well, it's not an exact replacement for the GBI standard issue chock; but, a Forespar M/N: 950001  3-1/2" straight chock will work.  The toe rail has a fairly tight curvature up that close to the bow.  The chock has no curvature, so you want a fairly short one in order for it to fit on top of the toe rail.  West Marine has them in stock (C/N: 162149) for $9.99 each.  These chocks require #10 flat head screws, which is still plenty strong enough.  Good Luck!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 6:09 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Awesome, that's very helpful. Do you recommend a specific size chock?
Thanks!!

On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:07?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Mitch,
>
> I've never had to remove my bow line chocks.  So, just for snicks and
> grins, this afternoon, I pulled one of the fasteners to see how the factory
> attached them.  The fastener was a stainless steel 1/4" flat head X 2" long
> wood screw.  The screw was bedded in some sort of caulk and the toe rail is
> solid FRP.  When I reinstalled the screw, I used Boat Life Seal
> polyurethane/silicone sealant.  This bow line chock is loaded in
> compression and shear, not tension.  The wood screw is not likely to ever
> pull out.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 3:32 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> Mitch,
>
> Yes, you can just screw the chocks into the toe rail, but don't use 5200.
> 5200 is a 'forever' adhesive.  There a very few places that I would say
> it's use is appropriate, and this is certainly _not_ one.  The screws will
> do the work of holding the chocks in place.
>
> Since you'd just be screwing into fiberglass, I'd argue that even a
> sealant isn't really necessary. But if you decide to use one, get one from
> a marine supply store, not a home store.
>
> I'd be a little generous in sizing the pilot hole for the screws.  You
> don't want to risk having the screws acting like wedges, and potentially
> splitting the toe-rail.
>
> The message about using a tap was referring to the option of drilling
> holes, then tapping threads, and using bolts rather than screws.  On my
> boat, this approach was used for jib sheet tracks and winches.  If you
> don't have experience tapping threads, I'd stick to wood screws.
> Hopefully, it goes without saying that the screws should be stainless steel.
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2023-10-28, at 08:11:19 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
> >
> > I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
> can just
> > screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no
> access to
> > the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the line will
> rub
> > against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives talking
> about using
> > a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
> >
> >
>
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sat Oct 28 21:37:06 2023
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 01:37:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Removing IMF mainsail
References: <634066382.269031.1698543427131.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <634066382.269031.1698543427131@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi All,? Today I removed my IMF mainsail.? Everything I've read suggests that I should have disassembled the furling mechanism from the bottom of the furler tube, but I was unable get it all apart.? The problem I had was removing the plastic plug that sits at the bottom of the furler tube and acts as a bearing surface for the furler.? The arrow on the attached photo points to the part I'm talking about.? I'm guessing that the part is just pressure fitted, but I couldn't get it out and was worried about breaking it.? In the end I simply removed the donut at the top of the furler and took the sail off that way.??? ?I have two questions:? How does that plug in the bottom of the tube come off?? Is there any source for replacement plugs (general boats?) and what's the part called?
Thanks as always,? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Peter
-------------- next part --------------
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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Oct 28 22:26:38 2023
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 19:26:38 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Removing IMF mainsail
Message-ID: <E1qwvVe-005cct-2W@s152.servername.online>

Peter,

I made a YouTube video about how I went about taking apart my IMF lower assembly:  https://youtu.be/MH7hYJnoNpM

Of course, yours may be somewhat different.  If there's no screw holding the lower cap in place, as there was with mine, then I'd guess that it's just a pressure fit.

General Boats would be the only source for IMF parts.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)

> On 2023-10-28, at 21:37:06 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:
>
> Hi All,&nbsp; Today I removed my IMF mainsail.&nbsp; Everything I've read 
> suggests that I should have disassembled the furling mechanism from the bottom 
> of the furler tube, but I was unable get it all apart.&nbsp; The problem I had 
> was removing the plastic plug that sits at the bottom of the furler tube and 
> acts as a bearing surface for the furler.&nbsp; The arrow on the attached photo 
> points to the part I'm talking about.&nbsp; I'm guessing that the part is just 
> pressure fitted, but I couldn't get it out and was worried about breaking 
> it.&nbsp; In the end I simply removed the donut at the top of the furler and 
> took the sail off that way.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;I have two questions:&nbsp; 
> How does that plug in the bottom of the tube come off?&nbsp; Is there any source 
> for replacement plugs (general boats?) and what's the part called? 
> Thanks as always,&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 
> &nbsp;Peter 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20231029/6d161045/attachment.jpg" 
> target="_blank">Polish_20231028_210323891.jpg</a> 
> 


From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Sat Oct 28 23:19:06 2023
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2023 22:19:06 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAFTyJNWPb7W81HPZ3u2g9jM-ZA-jAwcnCbq_gZE0e-YESszb0Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAM0HAm=7WNa2W25uS0hzT6RdCUi0E+z9PU7zCO5uU8KV==_nSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFTyJNWPb7W81HPZ3u2g9jM-ZA-jAwcnCbq_gZE0e-YESszb0Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiXJwvqsXHXMLWdSC6RXgmCfvC2jkfk6XBRw_fdFRpEcqQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Mitch,
               Roger has some very good points.  I've installed the chocks
on the toe rail and at least on my 0ld 1983, it was possible.  By removing
the trim I was able, just barely, to install the chocks with bolts and lock
nuts.

Having sailed and anchored my Rhodes the length of the northern
Mediterranean, the Chesapeake, the Bahamas and the Sea of Cortez and much
of the PNW and British Columbia, anchoring in all sorts of conditions,
currents and bottoms, I do have some opinions on anchoring the Rhodes.
Several of the responders have good points especially regarding scope.  A
Rocna or similar anchor is very versatile.  20' of chain was what I always
used in conjunction with the 3 strand 1/2" nylon rode.  5-7 to 1 ratio
depending on the bottom and conditions, worked well.  Also nothing wrong
with running a line to a windward shore either.  Lots of sage advice given
on the list.  Having anchored overnight many of hundreds of times, I think
we have dragged anchor a handful of times.

Chris Geankoplis
<enos

On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:11?AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:

> I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I can
> just screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no
> access to the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the
> line will rub against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives
> talking about using a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
>
> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:46?AM Jeff Smith Photo <jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com
> >
> wrote:
>
> > Fender washers and nylock nuts are all you should need to install chocks.
> > There is no real load on them.
> >
> > Best Regards
> > Jeff Smith
> > www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net
> > 732-236-1368
> >
>

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Sun Oct 29 08:03:54 2023
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 08:03:54 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Removing IMF mainsail
In-Reply-To: <634066382.269031.1698543427131@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <634066382.269031.1698543427131@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2634D4D8-57EB-47E2-82C5-5AC6441F75F1@stottarchitecture.com>

Ahhh! Come on you guys. I?ve been entertained for days with this thread. 
Ric
Dadventure. 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 28, 2023, at 9:37?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi All,  Today I removed my IMF mainsail.  Everything I've read suggests that I should have disassembled the furling mechanism from the bottom of the furler tube, but I was unable get it all apart.  The problem I had was removing the plastic plug that sits at the bottom of the furler tube and acts as a bearing surface for the furler.  The arrow on the attached photo points to the part I'm talking about.  I'm guessing that the part is just pressure fitted, but I couldn't get it out and was worried about breaking it.  In the end I simply removed the donut at the top of the furler and took the sail off that way.     I have two questions:  How does that plug in the bottom of the tube come off?  Is there any source for replacement plugs (general boats?) and what's the part called?
> Thanks as always,                 Peter
> -------------- next part --------------
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From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 08:50:34 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 08:50:34 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiXJwvqsXHXMLWdSC6RXgmCfvC2jkfk6XBRw_fdFRpEcqQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAM0HAm=7WNa2W25uS0hzT6RdCUi0E+z9PU7zCO5uU8KV==_nSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFTyJNWPb7W81HPZ3u2g9jM-ZA-jAwcnCbq_gZE0e-YESszb0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiXJwvqsXHXMLWdSC6RXgmCfvC2jkfk6XBRw_fdFRpEcqQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFTyJNVDFz8dVZK+cxuK6k=xaof+T3QYzJuT4pGGTQVhXdVMXw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Chris! That's a lot of anchoring. Thanks for the tips. The Rocna style
anchor looks very interesting. I'll have to look closely and see if bolts
and locknuts are a possibility on my 1990.


On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 11:19?PM Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hey Mitch,
>                Roger has some very good points.  I've installed the chocks
> on the toe rail and at least on my 0ld 1983, it was possible.  By removing
> the trim I was able, just barely, to install the chocks with bolts and lock
> nuts.
>
> Having sailed and anchored my Rhodes the length of the northern
> Mediterranean, the Chesapeake, the Bahamas and the Sea of Cortez and much
> of the PNW and British Columbia, anchoring in all sorts of conditions,
> currents and bottoms, I do have some opinions on anchoring the Rhodes.
> Several of the responders have good points especially regarding scope.  A
> Rocna or similar anchor is very versatile.  20' of chain was what I always
> used in conjunction with the 3 strand 1/2" nylon rode.  5-7 to 1 ratio
> depending on the bottom and conditions, worked well.  Also nothing wrong
> with running a line to a windward shore either.  Lots of sage advice given
> on the list.  Having anchored overnight many of hundreds of times, I think
> we have dragged anchor a handful of times.
>
> Chris Geankoplis
> <enos
>
> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:11?AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
> can
> > just screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no
> > access to the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the
> > line will rub against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the
> archives
> > talking about using a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
> >
> > On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:46?AM Jeff Smith Photo <
> jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com
> > >
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Fender washers and nylock nuts are all you should need to install
> chocks.
> > > There is no real load on them.
> > >
> > > Best Regards
> > > Jeff Smith
> > > www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net
> > > 732-236-1368
> > >
> >
>

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Sun Oct 29 09:24:48 2023
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 09:24:48 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB6683F44307EC3973FC0B8C1580A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683F44307EC3973FC0B8C1580A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <FFFC3D17-202B-428C-85A8-E58D050F6668@stottarchitecture.com>

I changed my chocks to handle 3/4? line about 10 years ago. I keep the boat on a shallow mooring in Shinnecock Bay  They were installed with 1 1/2? #12 wood screws. Even through heavy storms, the chocks have not shown any stress or damage. 
Ric
Dadventure. 
Hampton Bays NY
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 28, 2023, at 9:03?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Mitch
> 
> Well, it's not an exact replacement for the GBI standard issue chock; but, a Forespar M/N: 950001  3-1/2" straight chock will work.  The toe rail has a fairly tight curvature up that close to the bow.  The chock has no curvature, so you want a fairly short one in order for it to fit on top of the toe rail.  West Marine has them in stock (C/N: 162149) for $9.99 each.  These chocks require #10 flat head screws, which is still plenty strong enough.  Good Luck!
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 6:09 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> 
> Awesome, that's very helpful. Do you recommend a specific size chock?
> Thanks!!
> 
>> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:07?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Mitch,
>> 
>> I've never had to remove my bow line chocks.  So, just for snicks and
>> grins, this afternoon, I pulled one of the fasteners to see how the factory
>> attached them.  The fastener was a stainless steel 1/4" flat head X 2" long
>> wood screw.  The screw was bedded in some sort of caulk and the toe rail is
>> solid FRP.  When I reinstalled the screw, I used Boat Life Seal
>> polyurethane/silicone sealant.  This bow line chock is loaded in
>> compression and shear, not tension.  The wood screw is not likely to ever
>> pull out.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 3:32 PM
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>> 
>> Mitch,
>> 
>> Yes, you can just screw the chocks into the toe rail, but don't use 5200.
>> 5200 is a 'forever' adhesive.  There a very few places that I would say
>> it's use is appropriate, and this is certainly _not_ one.  The screws will
>> do the work of holding the chocks in place.
>> 
>> Since you'd just be screwing into fiberglass, I'd argue that even a
>> sealant isn't really necessary. But if you decide to use one, get one from
>> a marine supply store, not a home store.
>> 
>> I'd be a little generous in sizing the pilot hole for the screws.  You
>> don't want to risk having the screws acting like wedges, and potentially
>> splitting the toe-rail.
>> 
>> The message about using a tap was referring to the option of drilling
>> holes, then tapping threads, and using bolts rather than screws.  On my
>> boat, this approach was used for jib sheet tracks and winches.  If you
>> don't have experience tapping threads, I'd stick to wood screws.
>> Hopefully, it goes without saying that the screws should be stainless steel.
>> 
>> --Peter
>> 
>>>> On 2023-10-28, at 08:11:19 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
>>> 
>>> I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
>> can just
>>> screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no
>> access to
>>> the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the line will
>> rub
>>> against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives talking
>> about using
>>> a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 

From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 10:04:48 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 10:04:48 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB6683F44307EC3973FC0B8C1580A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <E1qwp2l-004PGF-05@s152.servername.online>
 <CY8PR10MB66835CA32FC146F468F4345380A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFTyJNVLbMJETF2YGE9SK_zzGOLuZkYyd3g9mKQRhDyvtREspA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683F44307EC3973FC0B8C1580A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFTyJNVqBMVMMwzHcx-MdrgLwrBk8UHWUOA3thVDNOXqD5an8g@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Roger, I hadn't even thought about the curvature. Very helpful!

On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 9:03?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Mitch
>
> Well, it's not an exact replacement for the GBI standard issue chock; but,
> a Forespar M/N: 950001  3-1/2" straight chock will work.  The toe rail has
> a fairly tight curvature up that close to the bow.  The chock has no
> curvature, so you want a fairly short one in order for it to fit on top of
> the toe rail.  West Marine has them in stock (C/N: 162149) for $9.99 each.
> These chocks require #10 flat head screws, which is still plenty strong
> enough.  Good Luck!
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 6:09 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> Awesome, that's very helpful. Do you recommend a specific size chock?
> Thanks!!
>
> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:07?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Mitch,
> >
> > I've never had to remove my bow line chocks.  So, just for snicks and
> > grins, this afternoon, I pulled one of the fasteners to see how the
> factory
> > attached them.  The fastener was a stainless steel 1/4" flat head X 2"
> long
> > wood screw.  The screw was bedded in some sort of caulk and the toe rail
> is
> > solid FRP.  When I reinstalled the screw, I used Boat Life Seal
> > polyurethane/silicone sealant.  This bow line chock is loaded in
> > compression and shear, not tension.  The wood screw is not likely to ever
> > pull out.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> > Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 3:32 PM
> > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >
> > Mitch,
> >
> > Yes, you can just screw the chocks into the toe rail, but don't use 5200.
> > 5200 is a 'forever' adhesive.  There a very few places that I would say
> > it's use is appropriate, and this is certainly _not_ one.  The screws
> will
> > do the work of holding the chocks in place.
> >
> > Since you'd just be screwing into fiberglass, I'd argue that even a
> > sealant isn't really necessary. But if you decide to use one, get one
> from
> > a marine supply store, not a home store.
> >
> > I'd be a little generous in sizing the pilot hole for the screws.  You
> > don't want to risk having the screws acting like wedges, and potentially
> > splitting the toe-rail.
> >
> > The message about using a tap was referring to the option of drilling
> > holes, then tapping threads, and using bolts rather than screws.  On my
> > boat, this approach was used for jib sheet tracks and winches.  If you
> > don't have experience tapping threads, I'd stick to wood screws.
> > Hopefully, it goes without saying that the screws should be stainless
> steel.
> >
> > --Peter
> >
> > > On 2023-10-28, at 08:11:19 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
> > >
> > > I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
> > can just
> > > screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no
> > access to
> > > the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the line
> will
> > rub
> > > against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives talking
> > about using
> > > a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>

From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 10:06:37 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 10:06:37 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <FFFC3D17-202B-428C-85A8-E58D050F6668@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683F44307EC3973FC0B8C1580A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <FFFC3D17-202B-428C-85A8-E58D050F6668@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <CAFTyJNUGvRzJ2iyvD6imWF1reToWgdeRxFKBuPzG8reCLVb5Rw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Ric, I will also look for 3/4" as I will probably have the boat on a
mooring from time to time and need some chafing protection.

On Sun, Oct 29, 2023 at 9:25?AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:

> I changed my chocks to handle 3/4? line about 10 years ago. I keep the
> boat on a shallow mooring in Shinnecock Bay  They were installed with 1
> 1/2? #12 wood screws. Even through heavy storms, the chocks have not shown
> any stress or damage.
> Ric
> Dadventure.
> Hampton Bays NY
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 28, 2023, at 9:03?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hi Mitch
> >
> > Well, it's not an exact replacement for the GBI standard issue chock;
> but, a Forespar M/N: 950001  3-1/2" straight chock will work.  The toe rail
> has a fairly tight curvature up that close to the bow.  The chock has no
> curvature, so you want a fairly short one in order for it to fit on top of
> the toe rail.  West Marine has them in stock (C/N: 162149) for $9.99 each.
> These chocks require #10 flat head screws, which is still plenty strong
> enough.  Good Luck!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 6:09 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >
> > Awesome, that's very helpful. Do you recommend a specific size chock?
> > Thanks!!
> >
> >> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:07?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Mitch,
> >>
> >> I've never had to remove my bow line chocks.  So, just for snicks and
> >> grins, this afternoon, I pulled one of the fasteners to see how the
> factory
> >> attached them.  The fastener was a stainless steel 1/4" flat head X 2"
> long
> >> wood screw.  The screw was bedded in some sort of caulk and the toe
> rail is
> >> solid FRP.  When I reinstalled the screw, I used Boat Life Seal
> >> polyurethane/silicone sealant.  This bow line chock is loaded in
> >> compression and shear, not tension.  The wood screw is not likely to
> ever
> >> pull out.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> >> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 3:32 PM
> >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >>
> >> Mitch,
> >>
> >> Yes, you can just screw the chocks into the toe rail, but don't use
> 5200.
> >> 5200 is a 'forever' adhesive.  There a very few places that I would say
> >> it's use is appropriate, and this is certainly _not_ one.  The screws
> will
> >> do the work of holding the chocks in place.
> >>
> >> Since you'd just be screwing into fiberglass, I'd argue that even a
> >> sealant isn't really necessary. But if you decide to use one, get one
> from
> >> a marine supply store, not a home store.
> >>
> >> I'd be a little generous in sizing the pilot hole for the screws.  You
> >> don't want to risk having the screws acting like wedges, and potentially
> >> splitting the toe-rail.
> >>
> >> The message about using a tap was referring to the option of drilling
> >> holes, then tapping threads, and using bolts rather than screws.  On my
> >> boat, this approach was used for jib sheet tracks and winches.  If you
> >> don't have experience tapping threads, I'd stick to wood screws.
> >> Hopefully, it goes without saying that the screws should be stainless
> steel.
> >>
> >> --Peter
> >>
> >>>> On 2023-10-28, at 08:11:19 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
> >> can just
> >>> screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no
> >> access to
> >>> the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the line
> will
> >> rub
> >>> against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives talking
> >> about using
> >>> a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
>

From lvjkuhn at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 11:12:05 2023
From: lvjkuhn at gmail.com (Lee Kuhn)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 11:12:05 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAFTyJNVDFz8dVZK+cxuK6k=xaof+T3QYzJuT4pGGTQVhXdVMXw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAM0HAm=7WNa2W25uS0hzT6RdCUi0E+z9PU7zCO5uU8KV==_nSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFTyJNWPb7W81HPZ3u2g9jM-ZA-jAwcnCbq_gZE0e-YESszb0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiXJwvqsXHXMLWdSC6RXgmCfvC2jkfk6XBRw_fdFRpEcqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFTyJNVDFz8dVZK+cxuK6k=xaof+T3QYzJuT4pGGTQVhXdVMXw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPgvAEnqyNzQBZ6e85Vr6=X+Vk1maSWRkAMk6rNJAoZTeEM0rw@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Chris,

But have you anchored at Tuttle Creek yet? ?

Lee
1999 Rhodes22  AT EASE
Claytor Lake,  VA

On Sun, Oct 29, 2023, 8:50 AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Chris! That's a lot of anchoring. Thanks for the tips. The Rocna style
> anchor looks very interesting. I'll have to look closely and see if bolts
> and locknuts are a possibility on my 1990.
>
>
> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 11:19?PM Chris Geankoplis <
> chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hey Mitch,
> >                Roger has some very good points.  I've installed the
> chocks
> > on the toe rail and at least on my 0ld 1983, it was possible.  By
> removing
> > the trim I was able, just barely, to install the chocks with bolts and
> lock
> > nuts.
> >
> > Having sailed and anchored my Rhodes the length of the northern
> > Mediterranean, the Chesapeake, the Bahamas and the Sea of Cortez and much
> > of the PNW and British Columbia, anchoring in all sorts of conditions,
> > currents and bottoms, I do have some opinions on anchoring the Rhodes.
> > Several of the responders have good points especially regarding scope.  A
> > Rocna or similar anchor is very versatile.  20' of chain was what I
> always
> > used in conjunction with the 3 strand 1/2" nylon rode.  5-7 to 1 ratio
> > depending on the bottom and conditions, worked well.  Also nothing wrong
> > with running a line to a windward shore either.  Lots of sage advice
> given
> > on the list.  Having anchored overnight many of hundreds of times, I
> think
> > we have dragged anchor a handful of times.
> >
> > Chris Geankoplis
> > <enos
> >
> > On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:11?AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
> > can
> > > just screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is
> no
> > > access to the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck
> the
> > > line will rub against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the
> > archives
> > > talking about using a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
> > >
> > > On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:46?AM Jeff Smith Photo <
> > jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com
> > > >
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Fender washers and nylock nuts are all you should need to install
> > chocks.
> > > > There is no real load on them.
> > > >
> > > > Best Regards
> > > > Jeff Smith
> > > > www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net
> > > > 732-236-1368
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 29 11:16:31 2023
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 15:16:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Removing IMF mainsail
References: <1293753074.340849.1698592591590.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1293753074.340849.1698592591590@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi Peter,
   Thanks for getting back to me.  Yes, my furling assembly is VERY different.  The furler tube is nothing more than a tube.  It does not have the slot or the extrusion that allows the end cap to be screwed on.  The good news for me is if I were to bend it, it would be easier to replace.  As for the bearing cap that on yours is held in with a single screw, on mine I'm guessing it is pressure fitted.  It appears that some previous owner has either removed it or tried to remove it and it has sustained some damage.  It sustained more when I tried.  At that point I gave up and removed the donut at the top of the tube and slid the sail off that way.  I'm not looking forward to trying to get the donut back on the furling tube.  The damage to the bearing surface is minimal and around the outside edge, so it should not effect function, but I can't replace the furling line without removing it which would likely mean destroying it.  I'm sure I could print a useable replacement part in ABS, but I don't know how long I could expect it to last and would probably end up putting a new one on every couple of years.  I'll reach out to GB and see if they have any of these old-style end caps.

Peter



>Peter,

>I made a YouTube video about how I went about taking apart my IMF lower assembly:  https://youtu.be/MH7hYJnoNpM

>Of course, yours may be somewhat different.  If there's no screw holding the lower cap in place, as there was with mine, then I'd guess that it's just a >pressure fit.

>General Boats would be the only source for IMF parts.

>Peter Nyberg
>Coventry, CT
>s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)

> On 2023-10-28, at 21:37:06 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:

From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 13:28:41 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 13:28:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB6683CD37A305EA6CE6668BB780A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZTc-sKNL0vaABTpwcRk9Z3Zs1_z6eQ9EGx-t1q_KCx6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CD37A305EA6CE6668BB780A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36az0bPyuR7WnwM4A+sEE0AhH_+V2EjVWLgD-Zph2v=kjA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Roger,

We probably will meet since you can be a late arriving squeezer.  Your kind
seem to follow me around.

The MINIMUM anchor rode to water depth is 7:1.  That's when the bottom and
all night weather forecast are good.  And it doesn't matter whether the
rode comes off a toe rail chock or the bow eye, there is no way to cheat
physics in order to squeeze in.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Rick,
>
> Boy, for somebody you've never met, you make a lot of assumptions about me
> and my boat.  First of all, my boat hook is always stored in a pair of
> Beckson Clipper Clips on the back wall of the cockpit just below the
> lazarette hatch.  I can easily find it in the dark.  Second, I always sleep
> with my camping headlight within easy reach.  Third, I always set a GPS
> anchor watch.  So, I would be awakened re a dragging anchor long before any
> of the boats around me noticed.  Actually, after many years of cruising,
> you get sensitive to the boat's motions and what a dragging anchor feels
> like.  The chances are, I'd be up on deck checking things out anyway.  I
> always take a couple of visual bearings on landmarks on shore to quickly
> detect if my boat has moved.  Fourth, the anchor rode is the only line
> extending out from the bow.  Even without my headlight, I could easily find
> it in the dark.  Just sweep the boat hook in front of the bow and it is
> bound to run into the anchor rode.
>
> Look, this thread is really getting tiresome.  Anchor your boat however
> you please.  I'm just glad I don't have to deal with you in person.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 12:09 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>
> Yelling comes from boats downwind you are dragging toward just because you
> wanted to squeeze in by putting out too little rode.  And you're taking
> forever to find your boat hook in the dark and rain, and to fish for the
> rode you can't see underwater.
>
> What's this about bringing the anchor aboard?  I'd rather walk into a
> Japanese home with my shoes on!  The anchor is to be kept outboard hanging
> from its bow rail bracket.  When just relocating in an anchorage, I also
> leave the mucky chain dangling outboard from the hanging anchor.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rick Lange
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 5:23?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Rick,
> >
> > What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk to
> > the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a boat
> > hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand over
> > hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or
> the
> > carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss, no
> > fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the
> anchor
> > is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace else
> or
> > going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of
> > shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where
> the
> > big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine
> > anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done
> much
> > anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to anchor
> > in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too
> > late to go somewhere else.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 13:48:54 2023
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 12:48:54 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAPgvAEnqyNzQBZ6e85Vr6=X+Vk1maSWRkAMk6rNJAoZTeEM0rw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAM0HAm=7WNa2W25uS0hzT6RdCUi0E+z9PU7zCO5uU8KV==_nSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFTyJNWPb7W81HPZ3u2g9jM-ZA-jAwcnCbq_gZE0e-YESszb0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiXJwvqsXHXMLWdSC6RXgmCfvC2jkfk6XBRw_fdFRpEcqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFTyJNVDFz8dVZK+cxuK6k=xaof+T3QYzJuT4pGGTQVhXdVMXw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPgvAEnqyNzQBZ6e85Vr6=X+Vk1maSWRkAMk6rNJAoZTeEM0rw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiX5H_siCTc8ZnfAcZLjhSH92xb8WSS=+d88qVTudNXBTA@mail.gmail.com>

No anchoring at Tuddle Puddle, the boat is over in Millford, grin. I?m
trying to get my some to pull it out and move it over to the ?yacht? club
at Tuttle where we store it on the hard during the long Arctic winter here.

On Sun, Oct 29, 2023 at 10:12 AM Lee Kuhn <lvjkuhn at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey Chris,
>
> But have you anchored at Tuttle Creek yet? ?
>
> Lee
> 1999 Rhodes22  AT EASE
> Claytor Lake,  VA
>
> On Sun, Oct 29, 2023, 8:50 AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Chris! That's a lot of anchoring. Thanks for the tips. The Rocna style
> > anchor looks very interesting. I'll have to look closely and see if bolts
> > and locknuts are a possibility on my 1990.
> >
> >
> > On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 11:19?PM Chris Geankoplis <
> > chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Hey Mitch,
> > >                Roger has some very good points.  I've installed the
> > chocks
> > > on the toe rail and at least on my 0ld 1983, it was possible.  By
> > removing
> > > the trim I was able, just barely, to install the chocks with bolts and
> > lock
> > > nuts.
> > >
> > > Having sailed and anchored my Rhodes the length of the northern
> > > Mediterranean, the Chesapeake, the Bahamas and the Sea of Cortez and
> much
> > > of the PNW and British Columbia, anchoring in all sorts of conditions,
> > > currents and bottoms, I do have some opinions on anchoring the Rhodes.
> > > Several of the responders have good points especially regarding
> scope.  A
> > > Rocna or similar anchor is very versatile.  20' of chain was what I
> > always
> > > used in conjunction with the 3 strand 1/2" nylon rode.  5-7 to 1 ratio
> > > depending on the bottom and conditions, worked well.  Also nothing
> wrong
> > > with running a line to a windward shore either.  Lots of sage advice
> > given
> > > on the list.  Having anchored overnight many of hundreds of times, I
> > think
> > > we have dragged anchor a handful of times.
> > >
> > > Chris Geankoplis
> > > <enos
> > >
> > > On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:11?AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if
> I
> > > can
> > > > just screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There
> is
> > no
> > > > access to the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck
> > the
> > > > line will rub against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the
> > > archives
> > > > talking about using a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
> > > >
> > > > On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:46?AM Jeff Smith Photo <
> > > jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com
> > > > >
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Fender washers and nylock nuts are all you should need to install
> > > chocks.
> > > > > There is no real load on them.
> > > > >
> > > > > Best Regards
> > > > > Jeff Smith
> > > > > www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net
> > > > > 732-236-1368
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 13:53:47 2023
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 12:53:47 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAFTyJNVDFz8dVZK+cxuK6k=xaof+T3QYzJuT4pGGTQVhXdVMXw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAM0HAm=7WNa2W25uS0hzT6RdCUi0E+z9PU7zCO5uU8KV==_nSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFTyJNWPb7W81HPZ3u2g9jM-ZA-jAwcnCbq_gZE0e-YESszb0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiXJwvqsXHXMLWdSC6RXgmCfvC2jkfk6XBRw_fdFRpEcqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFTyJNVDFz8dVZK+cxuK6k=xaof+T3QYzJuT4pGGTQVhXdVMXw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiXmp++6N4OtsSCzZ9UoGcoteJE8S7Zn_10ZbD_ru_w8bg@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Mitch, yup lots of anchoring and sailing between anchoring. Hopefully
you can install the chocks. You can read about an anchoring experience with
the Rocna in the archives under sailing the Med.  2018. Near the end on the
island of Ponza.
Chris G
Xenos

On Sun, Oct 29, 2023 at 7:50 AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Chris! That's a lot of anchoring. Thanks for the tips. The Rocna style
> anchor looks very interesting. I'll have to look closely and see if bolts
> and locknuts are a possibility on my 1990.
>
>
> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 11:19?PM Chris Geankoplis <
> chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hey Mitch,
> >                Roger has some very good points.  I've installed the
> chocks
> > on the toe rail and at least on my 0ld 1983, it was possible.  By
> removing
> > the trim I was able, just barely, to install the chocks with bolts and
> lock
> > nuts.
> >
> > Having sailed and anchored my Rhodes the length of the northern
> > Mediterranean, the Chesapeake, the Bahamas and the Sea of Cortez and much
> > of the PNW and British Columbia, anchoring in all sorts of conditions,
> > currents and bottoms, I do have some opinions on anchoring the Rhodes.
> > Several of the responders have good points especially regarding scope.  A
> > Rocna or similar anchor is very versatile.  20' of chain was what I
> always
> > used in conjunction with the 3 strand 1/2" nylon rode.  5-7 to 1 ratio
> > depending on the bottom and conditions, worked well.  Also nothing wrong
> > with running a line to a windward shore either.  Lots of sage advice
> given
> > on the list.  Having anchored overnight many of hundreds of times, I
> think
> > we have dragged anchor a handful of times.
> >
> > Chris Geankoplis
> > <enos
> >
> > On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:11?AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
> > can
> > > just screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is
> no
> > > access to the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck
> the
> > > line will rub against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the
> > archives
> > > talking about using a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
> > >
> > > On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:46?AM Jeff Smith Photo <
> > jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com
> > > >
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Fender washers and nylock nuts are all you should need to install
> > chocks.
> > > > There is no real load on them.
> > > >
> > > > Best Regards
> > > > Jeff Smith
> > > > www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net
> > > > 732-236-1368
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 13:57:45 2023
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 12:57:45 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Removing IMF mainsail
In-Reply-To: <1293753074.340849.1698592591590@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1293753074.340849.1698592591590.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1293753074.340849.1698592591590@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiVmSG6mvC40dRfaQVBmxiYSuJFGP55cpkhJXpvuA=T-dQ@mail.gmail.com>

You can make a new doughnut from HDPE or similar material using a couple of
hole saws if you can?t get it from GB.
Chris Geankoplis
Xenos

On Sun, Oct 29, 2023 at 10:16 AM Peter via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Hi Peter,
>    Thanks for getting back to me.  Yes, my furling assembly is VERY
> different.  The furler tube is nothing more than a tube.  It does not have
> the slot or the extrusion that allows the end cap to be screwed on.  The
> good news for me is if I were to bend it, it would be easier to replace.
> As for the bearing cap that on yours is held in with a single screw, on
> mine I'm guessing it is pressure fitted.  It appears that some previous
> owner has either removed it or tried to remove it and it has sustained some
> damage.  It sustained more when I tried.  At that point I gave up and
> removed the donut at the top of the tube and slid the sail off that way.
> I'm not looking forward to trying to get the donut back on the furling
> tube.  The damage to the bearing surface is minimal and around the outside
> edge, so it should not effect function, but I can't replace the furling
> line without removing it which would likely mean destroying it.  I'm sure I
> could print a useable replacement part in ABS, but I don't know how long I
> could expect it to last and would probably end up putting a new one on
> every couple of years.  I'll reach out to GB and see if they have any of
> these old-style end caps.
>
> Peter
>
>
>
> >Peter,
>
> >I made a YouTube video about how I went about taking apart my IMF lower
> assembly:  https://youtu.be/MH7hYJnoNpM
>
> >Of course, yours may be somewhat different.  If there's no screw holding
> the lower cap in place, as there was with mine, then I'd guess that it's
> just a >pressure fit.
>
> >General Boats would be the only source for IMF parts.
>
> >Peter Nyberg
> >Coventry, CT
> >s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
> > On 2023-10-28, at 21:37:06 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun Oct 29 14:32:41 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 18:32:41 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CABkv36az0bPyuR7WnwM4A+sEE0AhH_+V2EjVWLgD-Zph2v=kjA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZTc-sKNL0vaABTpwcRk9Z3Zs1_z6eQ9EGx-t1q_KCx6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CD37A305EA6CE6668BB780A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36az0bPyuR7WnwM4A+sEE0AhH_+V2EjVWLgD-Zph2v=kjA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB6683A25244F572D6964BE70480A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Rick,

Boy, you sure do like to pigeon hole people you?ve never even met!  It?s not a very attractive characteristic.  I prefer to think of people as individuals and keep an open mind.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 29, 2023, at 1:29?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Roger,
> 
> We probably will meet since you can be a late arriving squeezer.  Your kind
> seem to follow me around.
> 
> The MINIMUM anchor rode to water depth is 7:1.  That's when the bottom and
> all night weather forecast are good.  And it doesn't matter whether the
> rode comes off a toe rail chock or the bow eye, there is no way to cheat
> physics in order to squeeze in.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Rick Lange
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Rick,
>> 
>> Boy, for somebody you've never met, you make a lot of assumptions about me
>> and my boat.  First of all, my boat hook is always stored in a pair of
>> Beckson Clipper Clips on the back wall of the cockpit just below the
>> lazarette hatch.  I can easily find it in the dark.  Second, I always sleep
>> with my camping headlight within easy reach.  Third, I always set a GPS
>> anchor watch.  So, I would be awakened re a dragging anchor long before any
>> of the boats around me noticed.  Actually, after many years of cruising,
>> you get sensitive to the boat's motions and what a dragging anchor feels
>> like.  The chances are, I'd be up on deck checking things out anyway.  I
>> always take a couple of visual bearings on landmarks on shore to quickly
>> detect if my boat has moved.  Fourth, the anchor rode is the only line
>> extending out from the bow.  Even without my headlight, I could easily find
>> it in the dark.  Just sweep the boat hook in front of the bow and it is
>> bound to run into the anchor rode.
>> 
>> Look, this thread is really getting tiresome.  Anchor your boat however
>> you please.  I'm just glad I don't have to deal with you in person.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 
>> 
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 12:09 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>> 
>> Yelling comes from boats downwind you are dragging toward just because you
>> wanted to squeeze in by putting out too little rode.  And you're taking
>> forever to find your boat hook in the dark and rain, and to fish for the
>> rode you can't see underwater.
>> 
>> What's this about bringing the anchor aboard?  I'd rather walk into a
>> Japanese home with my shoes on!  The anchor is to be kept outboard hanging
>> from its bow rail bracket.  When just relocating in an anchorage, I also
>> leave the mucky chain dangling outboard from the hanging anchor.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> Rick Lange
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 5:23?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Rick,
>>> 
>>> What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk to
>>> the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a boat
>>> hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand over
>>> hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or
>> the
>>> carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss, no
>>> fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the
>> anchor
>>> is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace else
>> or
>>> going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of
>>> shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where
>> the
>>> big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine
>>> anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done
>> much
>>> anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to anchor
>>> in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too
>>> late to go somewhere else.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> 
>> 

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 17:02:57 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 17:02:57 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <FFFC3D17-202B-428C-85A8-E58D050F6668@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683F44307EC3973FC0B8C1580A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <FFFC3D17-202B-428C-85A8-E58D050F6668@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMMkCpoqvr=QnNMt-HL5em-UNJ6CiDKrJbGxZb3oOOhO5w@mail.gmail.com>

Rick,

What is the construction of the toe rail up on the bow? Is it solid
fiberglass or is there a wood core?

Todd T..

On Sun, Oct 29, 2023, 9:25 AM Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:

> I changed my chocks to handle 3/4? line about 10 years ago. I keep the
> boat on a shallow mooring in Shinnecock Bay  They were installed with 1
> 1/2? #12 wood screws. Even through heavy storms, the chocks have not shown
> any stress or damage.
> Ric
> Dadventure.
> Hampton Bays NY
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 28, 2023, at 9:03?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hi Mitch
> >
> > Well, it's not an exact replacement for the GBI standard issue chock;
> but, a Forespar M/N: 950001  3-1/2" straight chock will work.  The toe rail
> has a fairly tight curvature up that close to the bow.  The chock has no
> curvature, so you want a fairly short one in order for it to fit on top of
> the toe rail.  West Marine has them in stock (C/N: 162149) for $9.99 each.
> These chocks require #10 flat head screws, which is still plenty strong
> enough.  Good Luck!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 6:09 PM
> > To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >
> > Awesome, that's very helpful. Do you recommend a specific size chock?
> > Thanks!!
> >
> >> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:07?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Mitch,
> >>
> >> I've never had to remove my bow line chocks.  So, just for snicks and
> >> grins, this afternoon, I pulled one of the fasteners to see how the
> factory
> >> attached them.  The fastener was a stainless steel 1/4" flat head X 2"
> long
> >> wood screw.  The screw was bedded in some sort of caulk and the toe
> rail is
> >> solid FRP.  When I reinstalled the screw, I used Boat Life Seal
> >> polyurethane/silicone sealant.  This bow line chock is loaded in
> >> compression and shear, not tension.  The wood screw is not likely to
> ever
> >> pull out.
> >>
> >> Roger Pihlaja
> >> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >> Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> >> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 3:32 PM
> >> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >>
> >> Mitch,
> >>
> >> Yes, you can just screw the chocks into the toe rail, but don't use
> 5200.
> >> 5200 is a 'forever' adhesive.  There a very few places that I would say
> >> it's use is appropriate, and this is certainly _not_ one.  The screws
> will
> >> do the work of holding the chocks in place.
> >>
> >> Since you'd just be screwing into fiberglass, I'd argue that even a
> >> sealant isn't really necessary. But if you decide to use one, get one
> from
> >> a marine supply store, not a home store.
> >>
> >> I'd be a little generous in sizing the pilot hole for the screws.  You
> >> don't want to risk having the screws acting like wedges, and potentially
> >> splitting the toe-rail.
> >>
> >> The message about using a tap was referring to the option of drilling
> >> holes, then tapping threads, and using bolts rather than screws.  On my
> >> boat, this approach was used for jib sheet tracks and winches.  If you
> >> don't have experience tapping threads, I'd stick to wood screws.
> >> Hopefully, it goes without saying that the screws should be stainless
> steel.
> >>
> >> --Peter
> >>
> >>>> On 2023-10-28, at 08:11:19 EDT, Mitch Mitchell wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
> >> can just
> >>> screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is no
> >> access to
> >>> the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck the line
> will
> >> rub
> >>> against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the archives talking
> >> about using
> >>> a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sun Oct 29 17:39:08 2023
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 14:39:08 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
Message-ID: <E1qxDUy-004b48-2D@s152.servername.online>

Todd,

As Roger pointed out earlier in this thread, the toe-rail is solid fiberglass.

--Peter

> On 2023-10-29, at 17:02:57 EDT, Todd Tavares wrote:
>
> Rick,
> 
> What is the construction of the toe rail up on the bow? Is it solid fiberglass 
> or is there a wood core? 
> 
> Todd T..
> 
> 


From mitchpadl at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 19:21:12 2023
From: mitchpadl at gmail.com (Mitch Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 19:21:12 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiXmp++6N4OtsSCzZ9UoGcoteJE8S7Zn_10ZbD_ru_w8bg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiXmp++6N4OtsSCzZ9UoGcoteJE8S7Zn_10ZbD_ru_w8bg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <601A07B9-9FF7-4CB8-975B-669D053FE3C2@gmail.com>

Thanks Chris, I?ll check out that archive. I?ve read some of them and they were great!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 29, 2023, at 1:54 PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hey Mitch, yup lots of anchoring and sailing between anchoring. Hopefully
> you can install the chocks. You can read about an anchoring experience with
> the Rocna in the archives under sailing the Med.  2018. Near the end on the
> island of Ponza.
> Chris G
> Xenos
> 
>> On Sun, Oct 29, 2023 at 7:50 AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Chris! That's a lot of anchoring. Thanks for the tips. The Rocna style
>> anchor looks very interesting. I'll have to look closely and see if bolts
>> and locknuts are a possibility on my 1990.
>> 
>> 
>> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 11:19?PM Chris Geankoplis <
>> chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hey Mitch,
>>>               Roger has some very good points.  I've installed the
>> chocks
>>> on the toe rail and at least on my 0ld 1983, it was possible.  By
>> removing
>>> the trim I was able, just barely, to install the chocks with bolts and
>> lock
>>> nuts.
>>> 
>>> Having sailed and anchored my Rhodes the length of the northern
>>> Mediterranean, the Chesapeake, the Bahamas and the Sea of Cortez and much
>>> of the PNW and British Columbia, anchoring in all sorts of conditions,
>>> currents and bottoms, I do have some opinions on anchoring the Rhodes.
>>> Several of the responders have good points especially regarding scope.  A
>>> Rocna or similar anchor is very versatile.  20' of chain was what I
>> always
>>> used in conjunction with the 3 strand 1/2" nylon rode.  5-7 to 1 ratio
>>> depending on the bottom and conditions, worked well.  Also nothing wrong
>>> with running a line to a windward shore either.  Lots of sage advice
>> given
>>> on the list.  Having anchored overnight many of hundreds of times, I
>> think
>>> we have dragged anchor a handful of times.
>>> 
>>> Chris Geankoplis
>>> <enos
>>> 
>>> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:11?AM Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I would really like to install them in the toe rail and wondering if I
>>> can
>>>> just screw them in with some 5200? Has anyone else done this? There is
>> no
>>>> access to the backside of the toe rail and if I put them on the deck
>> the
>>>> line will rub against the toe rail.  I did see one message in the
>>> archives
>>>> talking about using a tap but couldn't really follow the technique.
>>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 7:46?AM Jeff Smith Photo <
>>> jeffsmithphoto at gmail.com
>>>>> 
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Fender washers and nylock nuts are all you should need to install
>>> chocks.
>>>>> There is no real load on them.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Best Regards
>>>>> Jeff Smith
>>>>> www.http://JeffSmithPhoto.Net
>>>>> 732-236-1368
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>> 

From goldsmith.cf at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 21:28:07 2023
From: goldsmith.cf at gmail.com (Frank Goldsmith)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 21:28:07 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CY8PR10MB6683A25244F572D6964BE70480A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZTc-sKNL0vaABTpwcRk9Z3Zs1_z6eQ9EGx-t1q_KCx6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CD37A305EA6CE6668BB780A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36az0bPyuR7WnwM4A+sEE0AhH_+V2EjVWLgD-Zph2v=kjA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683A25244F572D6964BE70480A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <0EF94E96-CCF8-470F-AFAC-92824EB2D6A8@gmail.com>

Gentlemen, can we please stop the sniping at one another?  No one is on this listserv because they want to read attacks and counter-attacks.  

Peace, please.

Frank

Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC


> On Oct 29, 2023, at 2:32 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Rick,
> 
> Boy, you sure do like to pigeon hole people you?ve never even met!  It?s not a very attractive characteristic.  I prefer to think of people as individuals and keep an open mind.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 29, 2023, at 1:29?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Hi Roger,
>> 
>> We probably will meet since you can be a late arriving squeezer.  Your kind
>> seem to follow me around.
>> 
>> The MINIMUM anchor rode to water depth is 7:1.  That's when the bottom and
>> all night weather forecast are good.  And it doesn't matter whether the
>> rode comes off a toe rail chock or the bow eye, there is no way to cheat
>> physics in order to squeeze in.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> Rick Lange
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Rick,
>>> 
>>> Boy, for somebody you've never met, you make a lot of assumptions about me
>>> and my boat.  First of all, my boat hook is always stored in a pair of
>>> Beckson Clipper Clips on the back wall of the cockpit just below the
>>> lazarette hatch.  I can easily find it in the dark.  Second, I always sleep
>>> with my camping headlight within easy reach.  Third, I always set a GPS
>>> anchor watch.  So, I would be awakened re a dragging anchor long before any
>>> of the boats around me noticed.  Actually, after many years of cruising,
>>> you get sensitive to the boat's motions and what a dragging anchor feels
>>> like.  The chances are, I'd be up on deck checking things out anyway.  I
>>> always take a couple of visual bearings on landmarks on shore to quickly
>>> detect if my boat has moved.  Fourth, the anchor rode is the only line
>>> extending out from the bow.  Even without my headlight, I could easily find
>>> it in the dark.  Just sweep the boat hook in front of the bow and it is
>>> bound to run into the anchor rode.
>>> 
>>> Look, this thread is really getting tiresome.  Anchor your boat however
>>> you please.  I'm just glad I don't have to deal with you in person.
>>> 
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>> Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 12:09 PM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>>> 
>>> Yelling comes from boats downwind you are dragging toward just because you
>>> wanted to squeeze in by putting out too little rode.  And you're taking
>>> forever to find your boat hook in the dark and rain, and to fish for the
>>> rode you can't see underwater.
>>> 
>>> What's this about bringing the anchor aboard?  I'd rather walk into a
>>> Japanese home with my shoes on!  The anchor is to be kept outboard hanging
>>> from its bow rail bracket.  When just relocating in an anchorage, I also
>>> leave the mucky chain dangling outboard from the hanging anchor.
>>> 
>>> Regards,
>>> 
>>> Rick Lange
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 5:23?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Rick,
>>>> 
>>>> What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk to
>>>> the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a boat
>>>> hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand over
>>>> hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or
>>> the
>>>> carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss, no
>>>> fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the
>>> anchor
>>>> is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace else
>>> or
>>>> going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of
>>>> shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where
>>> the
>>>> big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine
>>>> anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done
>>> much
>>>> anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to anchor
>>>> in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too
>>>> late to go somewhere else.
>>>> 
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 


From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 22:10:58 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 22:10:58 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <E1qxDUy-004b48-2D@s152.servername.online>
References: <E1qxDUy-004b48-2D@s152.servername.online>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMPz4TZcZMFHsin_T884DH_p09mMQq3oARXg3yv+MEV2bw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Peter

But with all of the changing the subject and the back and forth tit-for-tat
going on, I have only been breezing over the posts.

Todd T.

On Sun, Oct 29, 2023, 5:39 PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Todd,
>
> As Roger pointed out earlier in this thread, the toe-rail is solid
> fiberglass.
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2023-10-29, at 17:02:57 EDT, Todd Tavares wrote:
> >
> > Rick,
> >
> > What is the construction of the toe rail up on the bow? Is it solid
> fiberglass
> > or is there a wood core?
> >
> > Todd T..
> >
> >
>
>

From shawn.sustain at gmail.com  Sun Oct 29 23:25:40 2023
From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles)
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2023 20:25:40 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <0EF94E96-CCF8-470F-AFAC-92824EB2D6A8@gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZTc-sKNL0vaABTpwcRk9Z3Zs1_z6eQ9EGx-t1q_KCx6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CD37A305EA6CE6668BB780A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36az0bPyuR7WnwM4A+sEE0AhH_+V2EjVWLgD-Zph2v=kjA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683A25244F572D6964BE70480A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <0EF94E96-CCF8-470F-AFAC-92824EB2D6A8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMzGxuO6g2XeEGTxnn24ORn8EYM0KEeNHe0ZvNXTNULLzTBUaw@mail.gmail.com>

Well said! Bickering is antithetical to sailing.

Shawn Boles
s/v Sweet Baboo

On Sun, Oct 29, 2023, 6:28 PM Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Gentlemen, can we please stop the sniping at one another?  No one is on
> this listserv because they want to read attacks and counter-attacks.
>
> Peace, please.
>
> Frank
>
> Frank Goldsmith
> S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
> Fairview, NC
> Lake Keowee, SC
>
>
> > On Oct 29, 2023, at 2:32 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > Rick,
> >
> > Boy, you sure do like to pigeon hole people you?ve never even met!  It?s
> not a very attractive characteristic.  I prefer to think of people as
> individuals and keep an open mind.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Oct 29, 2023, at 1:29?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> ?Hi Roger,
> >>
> >> We probably will meet since you can be a late arriving squeezer.  Your
> kind
> >> seem to follow me around.
> >>
> >> The MINIMUM anchor rode to water depth is 7:1.  That's when the bottom
> and
> >> all night weather forecast are good.  And it doesn't matter whether the
> >> rode comes off a toe rail chock or the bow eye, there is no way to cheat
> >> physics in order to squeeze in.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> Rick Lange
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Hi Rick,
> >>>
> >>> Boy, for somebody you've never met, you make a lot of assumptions
> about me
> >>> and my boat.  First of all, my boat hook is always stored in a pair of
> >>> Beckson Clipper Clips on the back wall of the cockpit just below the
> >>> lazarette hatch.  I can easily find it in the dark.  Second, I always
> sleep
> >>> with my camping headlight within easy reach.  Third, I always set a GPS
> >>> anchor watch.  So, I would be awakened re a dragging anchor long
> before any
> >>> of the boats around me noticed.  Actually, after many years of
> cruising,
> >>> you get sensitive to the boat's motions and what a dragging anchor
> feels
> >>> like.  The chances are, I'd be up on deck checking things out anyway.
> I
> >>> always take a couple of visual bearings on landmarks on shore to
> quickly
> >>> detect if my boat has moved.  Fourth, the anchor rode is the only line
> >>> extending out from the bow.  Even without my headlight, I could easily
> find
> >>> it in the dark.  Just sweep the boat hook in front of the bow and it is
> >>> bound to run into the anchor rode.
> >>>
> >>> Look, this thread is really getting tiresome.  Anchor your boat however
> >>> you please.  I'm just glad I don't have to deal with you in person.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> ________________________________
> >>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> >>> Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> >>> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 12:09 PM
> >>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
> >>>
> >>> Yelling comes from boats downwind you are dragging toward just because
> you
> >>> wanted to squeeze in by putting out too little rode.  And you're taking
> >>> forever to find your boat hook in the dark and rain, and to fish for
> the
> >>> rode you can't see underwater.
> >>>
> >>> What's this about bringing the anchor aboard?  I'd rather walk into a
> >>> Japanese home with my shoes on!  The anchor is to be kept outboard
> hanging
> >>> from its bow rail bracket.  When just relocating in an anchorage, I
> also
> >>> leave the mucky chain dangling outboard from the hanging anchor.
> >>>
> >>> Regards,
> >>>
> >>> Rick Lange
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 5:23?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Rick,
> >>>>
> >>>> What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk
> to
> >>>> the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a
> boat
> >>>> hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand
> over
> >>>> hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or
> >>> the
> >>>> carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss,
> no
> >>>> fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the
> >>> anchor
> >>>> is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace
> else
> >>> or
> >>>> going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of
> >>>> shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor
> where
> >>> the
> >>>> big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine
> >>>> anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done
> >>> much
> >>>> anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to
> anchor
> >>>> in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s
> too
> >>>> late to go somewhere else.
> >>>>
> >>>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Mon Oct 30 09:38:57 2023
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2023 13:38:57 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <0EF94E96-CCF8-470F-AFAC-92824EB2D6A8@gmail.com>
References: <0C8D3BA2-2833-42D5-8DF3-158D471739F6@gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668365EC6289FEC77593FDA480DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36avGA2LOQ6q22umRbqqFrggYddXXyueZUv=KSuG7ia0Zg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB66838F4610599FE94493366080DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ae5O0CNCyoUA1J5cFXy=c1sW-=8nxdkEGtf+rU96dE=Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CB9BE6F22B80B062FE8980DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrLGnc=G5kqmsgiy0CNZaxSeU2ZBPvd=MEu7j9QoQQEQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668302BE6ED54273B308891180DDA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZEssaP1svDRP3+gfowB8_EN+4vEp_xUg2-JjADn3hrDQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683561C6A38806E8D2A9D7580DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZrOy=NYhzd-xFykQv=hFzO5W5kGExR2jmU=3CTA7Vw_A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB668312363EAD229255CD4CE680DCA@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36ZTc-sKNL0vaABTpwcRk9Z3Zs1_z6eQ9EGx-t1q_KCx6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683CD37A305EA6CE6668BB780A3A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABkv36az0bPyuR7WnwM4A+sEE0AhH_+V2EjVWLgD-Zph2v=kjA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY8PR10MB6683A25244F572D6964BE70480A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <0EF94E96-CCF8-470F-AFAC-92824EB2D6A8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY8PR10MB6683CE124B1A791BC94268E980A1A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Gentlemen,

You are absolutely right and I apologize to the rest of the list.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Frank Goldsmith <goldsmith.cf at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2023 9:28 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

Gentlemen, can we please stop the sniping at one another?  No one is on this listserv because they want to read attacks and counter-attacks.

Peace, please.

Frank

Frank Goldsmith
S/V Mary Bess (Rhodes 22 1985/2001)
Fairview, NC
Lake Keowee, SC


> On Oct 29, 2023, at 2:32 PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>
> Rick,
>
> Boy, you sure do like to pigeon hole people you?ve never even met!  It?s not a very attractive characteristic.  I prefer to think of people as individuals and keep an open mind.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 29, 2023, at 1:29?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?Hi Roger,
>>
>> We probably will meet since you can be a late arriving squeezer.  Your kind
>> seem to follow me around.
>>
>> The MINIMUM anchor rode to water depth is 7:1.  That's when the bottom and
>> all night weather forecast are good.  And it doesn't matter whether the
>> rode comes off a toe rail chock or the bow eye, there is no way to cheat
>> physics in order to squeeze in.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Rick Lange
>>
>>
>>> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Rick,
>>>
>>> Boy, for somebody you've never met, you make a lot of assumptions about me
>>> and my boat.  First of all, my boat hook is always stored in a pair of
>>> Beckson Clipper Clips on the back wall of the cockpit just below the
>>> lazarette hatch.  I can easily find it in the dark.  Second, I always sleep
>>> with my camping headlight within easy reach.  Third, I always set a GPS
>>> anchor watch.  So, I would be awakened re a dragging anchor long before any
>>> of the boats around me noticed.  Actually, after many years of cruising,
>>> you get sensitive to the boat's motions and what a dragging anchor feels
>>> like.  The chances are, I'd be up on deck checking things out anyway.  I
>>> always take a couple of visual bearings on landmarks on shore to quickly
>>> detect if my boat has moved.  Fourth, the anchor rode is the only line
>>> extending out from the bow.  Even without my headlight, I could easily find
>>> it in the dark.  Just sweep the boat hook in front of the bow and it is
>>> bound to run into the anchor rode.
>>>
>>> Look, this thread is really getting tiresome.  Anchor your boat however
>>> you please.  I'm just glad I don't have to deal with you in person.
>>>
>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>
>>>
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>>> Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2023 12:09 PM
>>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
>>>
>>> Yelling comes from boats downwind you are dragging toward just because you
>>> wanted to squeeze in by putting out too little rode.  And you're taking
>>> forever to find your boat hook in the dark and rain, and to fish for the
>>> rode you can't see underwater.
>>>
>>> What's this about bringing the anchor aboard?  I'd rather walk into a
>>> Japanese home with my shoes on!  The anchor is to be kept outboard hanging
>>> from its bow rail bracket.  When just relocating in an anchorage, I also
>>> leave the mucky chain dangling outboard from the hanging anchor.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Rick Lange
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 5:23?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Rick,
>>>>
>>>> What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk to
>>>> the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a boat
>>>> hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand over
>>>> hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or
>>> the
>>>> carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss, no
>>>> fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the
>>> anchor
>>>> is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace else
>>> or
>>>> going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of
>>>> shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where
>>> the
>>>> big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine
>>>> anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done
>>> much
>>>> anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to anchor
>>>> in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too
>>>> late to go somewhere else.
>>>>
>>>> Roger Pihlaja
>>>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>>
>>>


From sloopblueheron at gmail.com  Mon Oct 30 12:48:19 2023
From: sloopblueheron at gmail.com (Rick Lange)
Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2023 12:48:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
In-Reply-To: <CAB-twMMkCpoqvr=QnNMt-HL5em-UNJ6CiDKrJbGxZb3oOOhO5w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CY8PR10MB6683F44307EC3973FC0B8C1580A2A@CY8PR10MB6683.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <FFFC3D17-202B-428C-85A8-E58D050F6668@stottarchitecture.com>
 <CAB-twMMkCpoqvr=QnNMt-HL5em-UNJ6CiDKrJbGxZb3oOOhO5w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABkv36Z8zNwVPzY78cAzJUpBfG3wnagrJRsrTaycp83MnVHuDA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Todd,

For my "93, the toe rails are not backed or filled.  So the chocks were
bolted on. making for one of the more difficult stops in my biennial nut
tightening routine.

Regards,

Rick Lange


On Sun, Oct 29, 2023 at 5:03?PM Todd Tavares <tavares0947 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> What is the construction of the toe rail up on the bow? Is it solid
> fiberglass or is there a wood core?
>
> Todd T..
>

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Tue Oct 31 19:30:40 2023
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2023 19:30:40 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring
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Roger, Rick, All,

I can not remember much about the upper shroud chainplates which run up
through the toe rail; or how the deck to hull joint is constructed for that
matter, but here are a few pictures I took from my old 1976 model Rhodes
22.  The previous owner cut a section of the cabin liner out with a series
of drilled holes. The chainplate consisted of two tangs, crossed and bolted
together. I never investigated them any more than making sure the nuts were
tight. But looking back at the pictures now, I can't figure out where the
heads of the bolts were, but guess they were behind the rub rail. (?) I
have never taken the rub rail off any of the three Rhodes 22s I've owned.

Todd T



On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 6:38?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Rick,
>
> Tell us more about how one of the upper side stay chainplates failed
> suddenly and without warning.  I agree it?s hard to inspect the way it?s
> glassed in.  However, if the FRP substrate failed, I would expect it would
> get ?mushy? first.  Similarly, if the stainless steel chainplate itself
> failed, I would expect it to gradually get weaker as the pitting and cracks
> extended.  Either mechanism would cause a situation wherein you would have
> issues with maintaining the shroud tension.  After every sail, the shroud
> would be loose.  Since you claim the failure happened suddenly without
> warning, please tell us what happened.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 27, 2023, at 4:44?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?Rick,
> >
> > What yelling?  You start the engine.  While it?s warming up, you walk to
> the bow, and snag the anchor rode downstream of the carabiner with a boat
> hook. You motor slowly forward while pulling in the anchor rode hand over
> hand over the railing.  Note that you haven?t touched the bow cleat or the
> carabiner.  When the anchor is aboard, you go and redeploy.  No muss, no
> fuss.  I am just claiming that my technique makes it less likely the anchor
> is going to drag.  Often, your suggested options of going someplace else or
> going to shore are not available.  The Rhodes 22 has the advantage of
> shallow draft and can often be anchored in a corner of the harbor where the
> big boats can?t go.  We all have a vision of being alone in a pristine
> anchorage.  But, that?s often not the reality.  Have you actually done much
> anchoring out?  What do you propose to do if you?re not willing to anchor
> in close quarters?  Remember, there are no slips available and it?s too
> late to go somewhere else.
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Oct 27, 2023, at 4:19?PM, Rick Lange <sloopblueheron at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> ?Roger,
> >>
> >> If you wake up dragging, it is likely you will need to quickly redeploy.
> >> That's not easily and safely done in the dark with your anchor tackle
> >> complications.  And any "optimizing" that ignores emergencies just
> leads to
> >> a short life--and a lot of yelling.
> >>
> >> I am not suggesting an all chain rode.  I am saying you need a 20' chain
> >> between anchor and rope rode, as you have.  The rope should be no less
> than
> >> 7 times longer than the water depth.  If you can't find a spot that has
> >> enough room, go to shore or to another anchorage.  Good seamanship is
> not
> >> squeezing in.
> >>
> >> One of the few faults with the R22 is that the chain plates cannot be
> >> visually inspected.  Some on this list have opened inspection holes in
> the
> >> cabin inside walls to make inspection possible.  The lower stays did
> their
> >> backup job fine, however, reattaching the plate and repairing the hull
> was
> >> expensive.
> >>
> >> I ran out of gas trying to beat a storm that was not predicted.  The
> lesson
> >> learned was to always carry a full reserve tank on the open lake.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> Rick Lange
> >>
> >>
> >>>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2023 at 1:29?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Rick,
> >>>
> >>> For those of us that actually stay overnight at anchor, there are two
> >>> major issues we worry about:
> >>> 1: Is my anchor going to drag?
> >>> 2: If the wind or current shifts, is my swing circle going to interfere
> >>> with the boats anchored around me?
> >>>
> >>> With a given anchor type and anchor rode configuration, the best way to
> >>> reduce the chance of dragging anchor is to increase the scope ratio.
> With
> >>> a small boat, like a Rhodes 22, an all chain anchor rode is simply too
> >>> heavy to be a practical option.  I use a boat length of chain
> connected to
> >>> 150 ft of 3/8 inch diameter three strand nylon rode.
> >>>
> >>> The best way to assure your swing circle isn?t going to interfere with
> >>> other boats is to make your swing radius as small as possible, with an
> >>> acceptable scope ratio.  Why would I want to make my swing radius
> bigger?
> >>> The reality of small sailboat cruising is that we tend to arrive at an
> >>> anchorage late in the day.  By this time, the power boats have already
> >>> dropped their hooks for the evening.  We often have to find a place
> among
> >>> the boats that are already in place and the newcomer always has to
> yield
> >>> right of way.  Having a small swing radius lets us squeeze in where
> most
> >>> boats could not.
> >>>
> >>> My suggested anchoring technique enables one or the other of these
> issues
> >>> to be optimized.  All other anchoring scenarios put together make up a
> very
> >>> small % of the total use of your anchor.  I?m glad you were able to
> keep
> >>> your boat off the rocks by emergency anchoring.  But, this scenario has
> >>> very little to do with normal cruising.  Good seamanship would dictate
> that
> >>> you inspect your rigging and pay attention to your fuel level so you
> don?t
> >>> have to emergency anchor.  But, those are entirely separate issues.
> >>>
> >>> Roger Pihlaja
> >>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>>
>
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