[Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

ROGER PIHLAJA roger_pihlaja at msn.com
Thu Oct 26 12:26:29 EDT 2023


Although I can't open the attachment, my R-22 has the same single bow cleat you describe on your boat.  There are many factors that affect how a boat lies to its anchor.  Factors which have a much larger effect on the boat than the slight off-center position of the anchor rode include wind and current direction and strength, distribution and amount of windage ( i.e.  Do you have your pop top enclosure &/or boom room up? ), and underwater configuration ( i.e. Do you have the centerboard &/or rudder up or down? ).   There should be a pair of line chocks mounted port and starboard on the toe rails up on the bow.  On my boat, these line chocks are mounted on top of the toe rail about halfway in-between the stanchions on the bow pulpit.  You should run the anchor rode from the cleat thru one or the other of these line chocks.  Routing the anchor rode thru these line chocks will not only bring the effective point of attachment closer to the boat's centerline on the bow, it will also help to eliminate chafing on the anchor rode and the boat.  If your boat doesn't have these bow line chocks; then you should add them ASAP.  they also help eliminate chafe from dock lines.

One thing you should also consider doing is routing the anchor rode thru a locking rock-climbing carabineer.  Then, attach the carabineer to the trailering bow eye and run the anchor rode thru one of the bow line chocks, and the bow cleat.  Now, the effective anchor rode attachment point is about 2 ft closer to the water.  This does good things for your anchor scope ratio.  An example will serve to illustrate my point:

Suppose you want to anchor in 10 ft of water depth.  If you route your anchor rode thru the bow chock, which is about 3 ft above the water, you have to add 10 + 3 = 13 ft.  To achieve a 7:1 scope ratio you would have to let out 13 X 7 = 91 ft of anchor rode.  If you route your anchor rode thru the bow eye with a carabineer, you will have reduced the attachment point's height above the water to about 1 ft and 10 + 1 = 11 ft.  Now, to achieve the same 7:1 scope ratio, you only have to let out 11 X 7 = 77 ft of anchor rode.  This is a significant reduction in your swing radius.  In a crowded anchorage, this is a useful trick, with no reduction in safety.  Or, you can let out the original 91 ft of anchor rode and achieve 91 / 11 = 8.27 scope ratio.  With the same 91 ft swing radius, this larger scope ratio makes your anchor less likely to drag.

This is SOP anchoring technique aboard S/V Dynamic Equilibrium.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium

________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Mitch Mitchell <mitchpadl at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2023 10:37 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Anchoring

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Hoping to get some suggestions for anchoring. My boat just has a single cleat centered on the bow and I’m trying to figure out the best way to run the anchor line. Should I go between the two center pulpit stanchions? If I do that it would be rubbing against the forestay which doesn’t seem good. Should I run it around the second set of pulpit stanchions? That puts the pull to the side which would make the boat go from side to side. I’ve read where other people have added all kinds of anchor rollers, chocks etc. but I am not interested in doing that. Thanks! I’ve included an image of the bow.


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