From bobfcohen at gmail.com  Mon Apr  1 14:57:27 2024
From: bobfcohen at gmail.com (bobfcohen at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 14:57:27 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
Message-ID: <44f801da8466$71410c70$53c32550$@gmail.com>

I have been reading the various recent postings about outboard motors with
great interest. I have a 2007 Rhodes with a hand-start 4-stroke Honda 5 HP
motor probably of the same age.  It works reasonably well, although the gear
box had to be replaced a couple of years ago.  We also have a GB motor lift
trolley system, which continues to work very well.

 

There are two chronic problems with the motor.  One is that shifting gears
is awkward.  The shift mechanism is not on the handle with the throttle.  It
is located on the side of the motor and is very hard to reach, especially if
I am facing forward.  Our jury-rig solution is to have a piece of PVC pipe
which I can put onto the shift mechanism when I am backing out of the slip
and need to change gears.  It is very clumsy (and can be lost overboard).
The other problem is that my wife and I are in our 70's.  She would be
unable to start the motor by pulling on the cord if something were to happen
to me.  

 

With these problems we need to make some changes, especially with regard to
the hand-start aspect of the motor.  Is it possible to retrofit some kind of
electric starter on a motor like ours?  Assuming not, we would be looking at
buying another motor. It would need to be electric start and have the shift
control on the handle with the throttle.  Our 5 HP Honda is also a little
underpowered  for our location on Portage Lake in northern Michigan,  which
connects to Lake Michigan.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions for what we should look for in a
replacement motor? I don't think we want to get an electric motor as some on
the List have suggested, given the need to use it (or at least have it
available for use) on Lake Michigan.  I have seen suggestions on the List
for an 8 HP Mercury with the shift on the handle.

 

Also, our hand-held anemometer broke.  Does anyone have suggestions about a
good hand-held anemometer to replace it?

 

Thanks,

Bob Cohen  



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com

From rweiss at siu.edu  Mon Apr  1 15:02:26 2024
From: rweiss at siu.edu (Weiss, Robert L)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 19:02:26 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
In-Reply-To: <44f801da8466$71410c70$53c32550$@gmail.com>
References: <44f801da8466$71410c70$53c32550$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CH0PR07MB8378981061ABC65BA9B3A998C63F2@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

My Mercury 8 hp with electric start and the throttle on the tiller works great. While in 2014 Stan was not wanting to tell me what to get, he did suggest this as an option and it was plenty powerful and easy to shift with the tiller handle sticking up.

Bob
Beach Spring

Robert L Weiss Jr.
Director of Music
First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
Professor Emeritus, SIUC
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of bobfcohen at gmail.com <bobfcohen at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 1:57 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions

[EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.

I have been reading the various recent postings about outboard motors with
great interest. I have a 2007 Rhodes with a hand-start 4-stroke Honda 5 HP
motor probably of the same age.  It works reasonably well, although the gear
box had to be replaced a couple of years ago.  We also have a GB motor lift
trolley system, which continues to work very well.



There are two chronic problems with the motor.  One is that shifting gears
is awkward.  The shift mechanism is not on the handle with the throttle.  It
is located on the side of the motor and is very hard to reach, especially if
I am facing forward.  Our jury-rig solution is to have a piece of PVC pipe
which I can put onto the shift mechanism when I am backing out of the slip
and need to change gears.  It is very clumsy (and can be lost overboard).
The other problem is that my wife and I are in our 70's.  She would be
unable to start the motor by pulling on the cord if something were to happen
to me.



With these problems we need to make some changes, especially with regard to
the hand-start aspect of the motor.  Is it possible to retrofit some kind of
electric starter on a motor like ours?  Assuming not, we would be looking at
buying another motor. It would need to be electric start and have the shift
control on the handle with the throttle.  Our 5 HP Honda is also a little
underpowered  for our location on Portage Lake in northern Michigan,  which
connects to Lake Michigan.



Does anyone have any suggestions for what we should look for in a
replacement motor? I don't think we want to get an electric motor as some on
the List have suggested, given the need to use it (or at least have it
available for use) on Lake Michigan.  I have seen suggestions on the List
for an 8 HP Mercury with the shift on the handle.



Also, our hand-held anemometer broke.  Does anyone have suggestions about a
good hand-held anemometer to replace it?



Thanks,

Bob Cohen



--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Mon Apr  1 15:20:49 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2024 15:20:49 -0400
Subject: A Web Interface for ‘Da List’
Message-ID: <E1rrND7-00AoEr-2G@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Back in 2021, I rewrote the website for rhodes22.org.  No-one asked me to do this, but the 20 year old website was showing its age, and I enjoyed the challenge.  There was little in the way of new technology involved, both the old and new websites were mostly static HTML web pages.  When I was done, Mike Weisner, the rhodes22.org webmaster, was gracious enough to install the new web pages, and little has changed since.

Not being willing to let well enough alone though, I kept working.  I wrote web pages and programs that created a web interface for the Rhodes 22 email list (a.k.a. ?da list?).  This work definitely did involve new technology.  Implementing these changes on rhodes22.org would have required adding support for several new programming languages, and a database management system (DBMS).

Mike said he would look into doing this, but it never happened.  I don?t blame Mike for hesitating.  It would be a lot of work to set up initially, and then the more complicated environment would have to be maintained going forward.

So, for the last three years, I?ve been using this new functionality in my test workspace, and sometimes I?d forget that I?m the only person using this web interface to read and send messages.  Then I got a new bee in my bonnet.

I started a thread a few weeks ago regarding my concern about declining activity on the email list.  The thread didn?t get a lot of traction, but that?s not enough to deter me.  My hypothesis was that being only an email based discussion group may be limiting our appeal.  No one seemed to agree, but then the only people who saw my message were people comfortable using an email list discussion group.

But then it occurred to me that the web interface I?d developed could be deployed anywhere, it didn?t need to be on rhodes22.org.

I found that the domain ?rhodes22.net' was available, so I bought that  I then found a web hosting plan that had the technologies I needed, and installed the email list web interface there.

My hope is that it will attract people who would not have participated in a community only available via email.  Failing that, perhaps some members will find the web interface to be a useful alternative.

Of course, there?s always the possibility that the whole thing will crash and burn the first time two people try to use it at the same time.  We?ll see.

Anyone who is a member of Rhodes 22 Email List can sign on to rhodes22.net using the same email address as a user id.

Those interested can check out the new web interface at https://www.rhodes22.net

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)


<< Sent From rhodes22.net >>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Mon Apr  1 15:34:11 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2024 15:34:11 -0400
Subject: A Web Interface for ‘Da List’
Message-ID: <E1rrNQ3-00Aw0E-0C@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Back in 2021, I rewrote the website for rhodes22.org.  No-one asked me to do this, but the 20 year old website was showing its age, and I enjoyed the challenge.  There was little in the way of new technology involved, both the old and new websites were mostly static HTML web pages.  When I was done. Mike Weisner, the rhodes22.org webmaster, was gracious enough to install the new web pages, and little has changed since.

Not being willing to let well enough alone though, I kept working.  I wrote web pages and programs that created a web interface for the Rhodes 22 email list (a.k.a. ?da list?).  This work definitely did involve new technology.  Implementing these changes on rhodes22.org would have required adding support for several new programming languages, and a database management system (DBMS).

Mike said he would look into doing this, but it never happened.  I don?t blame Mike for hesitating.  It would be a lot of work to set up initially, and then the more complicated environment would have to be maintained going forward.

So, for the last three years, I?ve been using this new functionality in my test workspace, and sometimes I?d forget that I?m the only person using this web interface to read and send messages.  Then I got a new bee in my bonnet.

I started a thread a few weeks ago regarding my concern about declining activity on the email list.  The thread didn?t get a lot of traction, but that?s not enough to deter me.  My hypothesis was that being only an email based discussion group may be limiting our appeal.  No one seemed to agree, but then the only people who saw my message were people comfortable using an email list discussion group.

But then it occurred to me that the web interface I?d developed could be deployed anywhere, it didn?t need to be on rhodes22.org.

I found that the domain ?rhodes22.net' was available, so I bought that  I then found a web hosting plan that had the technologies I needed, and installed the email list web interface there.

My hope is that it will attract people who would not have participated in a community only available via email.  Failing that, perhaps some members will find the web interface to be a useful alternative.

Of course, there?s always the possibility that the whole thing will crash and burn the first time two people try to use it at the same time.  We?ll see.

Anyone who is a member of Rhodes 22 Email List can sign on to rhodes22.net using the same email address as a user id.

Those interested can check out the new web interface at https://www.rhodes22.net

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)

<< Sent From rhodes22.net >>

From reuben.mezrich at gmail.com  Mon Apr  1 15:46:24 2024
From: reuben.mezrich at gmail.com (Reuben Mezrich)
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2024 15:46:24 -0400
Subject: A Web Interface for ‘Da List’
Message-ID: <E1rrNbs-00B2gw-0t@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Peter
This is excellent!
I imagine there are costs related to hosting the website...can I contribute?
--Reuben

<< Sent From rhodes22.net >>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Mon Apr  1 16:05:13 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:05:13 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A Web Interface for 'Da List'
Message-ID: <E1rrNu5-00BIvB-21@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Reuben,

I'm glad you like it.  Let's not get ahead of ourselves.  The costs are not large, and this thing has a way to go to prove itself useful.  

There seems to be an issue with special characters in the subject line, for instance.

The double sending of the first message was due to me being nervous about kicking this off, not a technical glitch.

--Peter

> On 2024-04-01, at 15:46:24 EDT, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
>
> Peter
> This is excellent!
> I imagine there are costs related to hosting the website...can I contribute? 
> --Reuben 
> 
> &lt;&lt; Sent From rhodes22.net &gt;&gt;
> 


<< Sent From rhodes22.net >>

From sea20 at verizon.net  Mon Apr  1 16:06:32 2024
From: sea20 at verizon.net (Scott Andrews)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 16:06:32 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
In-Reply-To: <CH0PR07MB8378981061ABC65BA9B3A998C63F2@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CH0PR07MB8378981061ABC65BA9B3A998C63F2@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <530FB96A-AE61-4D92-8EBC-99BEA19446B1@verizon.net>

Greetings all, I have a 5 hp Mercury with the same issues as you Bob. I intend to upgrade to an electric start at some point. Also a Rhodie friend of mine paid 1,200$ to have cockpit shifter and throttle. He said it was the best money he ever spent on the boat. I may get that as well some day.
Scott 86? Rhodes 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2024, at 3:02?PM, Weiss, Robert L via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?My Mercury 8 hp with electric start and the throttle on the tiller works great. While in 2014 Stan was not wanting to tell me what to get, he did suggest this as an option and it was plenty powerful and easy to shift with the tiller handle sticking up.
> 
> Bob
> Beach Spring
> 
> Robert L Weiss Jr.
> Director of Music
> First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
> Professor Emeritus, SIUC
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of bobfcohen at gmail.com <bobfcohen at gmail.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 1:57 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
> 
> [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.
> 
> I have been reading the various recent postings about outboard motors with
> great interest. I have a 2007 Rhodes with a hand-start 4-stroke Honda 5 HP
> motor probably of the same age.  It works reasonably well, although the gear
> box had to be replaced a couple of years ago.  We also have a GB motor lift
> trolley system, which continues to work very well.
> 
> 
> 
> There are two chronic problems with the motor.  One is that shifting gears
> is awkward.  The shift mechanism is not on the handle with the throttle.  It
> is located on the side of the motor and is very hard to reach, especially if
> I am facing forward.  Our jury-rig solution is to have a piece of PVC pipe
> which I can put onto the shift mechanism when I am backing out of the slip
> and need to change gears.  It is very clumsy (and can be lost overboard).
> The other problem is that my wife and I are in our 70's.  She would be
> unable to start the motor by pulling on the cord if something were to happen
> to me.
> 
> 
> 
> With these problems we need to make some changes, especially with regard to
> the hand-start aspect of the motor.  Is it possible to retrofit some kind of
> electric starter on a motor like ours?  Assuming not, we would be looking at
> buying another motor. It would need to be electric start and have the shift
> control on the handle with the throttle.  Our 5 HP Honda is also a little
> underpowered  for our location on Portage Lake in northern Michigan,  which
> connects to Lake Michigan.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions for what we should look for in a
> replacement motor? I don't think we want to get an electric motor as some on
> the List have suggested, given the need to use it (or at least have it
> available for use) on Lake Michigan.  I have seen suggestions on the List
> for an 8 HP Mercury with the shift on the handle.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, our hand-held anemometer broke.  Does anyone have suggestions about a
> good hand-held anemometer to replace it?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob Cohen
> 
> 
> 
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://nam11.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2F&data=05%7C02%7Crweiss%40siu.edu%7C2ba36ba92b0e438b9ee208dc527d958d%7Cd57a98e7744d43f9bc9108de1ff3710d%7C0%7C0%7C638475946974279297%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C40000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=X0Vvxy5JdFNtu2YfV%2FmI0ELOdAhydr%2BvyL43VVlbOA0%3D&reserved=0<http://www.avast.com/>


From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Mon Apr  1 17:06:15 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 17:06:15 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A Web Interface for 'Da List'
In-Reply-To: <E1rrNu5-00BIvB-21@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rrNu5-00BIvB-21@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <003c01da8478$6faa1390$4efe3ab0$@ebsmed.com>

Peter,

Thank you for creating the current Rhodes22.org website and setting up the next generation version for testing at Rhodes22.net. I have been fairly busy taking care of elder family members (and estates), my retirement, family weddings and, most importantly, getting ready for the sailing season. There was little time to devote to testing the new site.

We do have some money left in the Rhodes22.org donations account that can probably cover your costs. Please email me a reconciliation and I will pay it. If anyone on the list has an issue with this, please let me know.

As we have discussed previously, I had placed rhodes22.org on the AWS platform (Amazon servers) to avoid succession issues as new folks take over management of the website and email list. Unfortunately, I have taken no actions to provide a method of handing off the management tasks. I would welcome anyone who wants to share or take over the responsibilities. The position of webmaster is always available to Rhodies who have the time and abilities. While I do not discriminate against age, youth is a plus.

Thanks again, Peter, for all that you do for the Rhodies.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 4:05 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] A Web Interface for 'Da List'

Reuben,

I'm glad you like it.  Let's not get ahead of ourselves.  The costs are not large, and this thing has a way to go to prove itself useful.  

There seems to be an issue with special characters in the subject line, for instance.

The double sending of the first message was due to me being nervous about kicking this off, not a technical glitch.

--Peter

> On 2024-04-01, at 15:46:24 EDT, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
>
> Peter
> This is excellent!
> I imagine there are costs related to hosting the website...can I contribute? 
> --Reuben 
> 
> &lt;&lt; Sent From rhodes22.net &gt;&gt;
> 


<< Sent From rhodes22.net >>


From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Mon Apr  1 17:58:49 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 21:58:49 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
In-Reply-To: <530FB96A-AE61-4D92-8EBC-99BEA19446B1@verizon.net>
References: <CH0PR07MB8378981061ABC65BA9B3A998C63F2@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <530FB96A-AE61-4D92-8EBC-99BEA19446B1@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428810823059A9B15673017A803F2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Bob and Scott,
I have the cockpit remote engine controls for my Honda 8 hp extra long shaft outboard.  The cockpit remote control unit is the same as the Honda 9.9 hp.  It?s a single lever shift/throttle design.  It makes close quarters maneuvering much less dramatic.  You stand in the cockpit with the tiller in your right hand and the engine controls in your left.  Total control - it?s wonderful!  I teach my Boy Scouts with this setup and they all catch on very quickly.  It also makes single handed docking much easier.  I highly recommend remote cockpit engine controls.!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2024, at 4:06?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> ?Greetings all, I have a 5 hp Mercury with the same issues as you Bob. I intend to upgrade to an electric start at some point. Also a Rhodie friend of mine paid 1,200$ to have cockpit shifter and throttle. He said it was the best money he ever spent on the boat. I may get that as well some day.
> Scott 86? Rhodes
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Apr 1, 2024, at 3:02?PM, Weiss, Robert L via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>
>> ?My Mercury 8 hp with electric start and the throttle on the tiller works great. While in 2014 Stan was not wanting to tell me what to get, he did suggest this as an option and it was plenty powerful and easy to shift with the tiller handle sticking up.
>>
>> Bob
>> Beach Spring
>>
>> Robert L Weiss Jr.
>> Director of Music
>> First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
>> Professor Emeritus, SIUC
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of bobfcohen at gmail.com <bobfcohen at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 1:57 PM
>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
>>
>> [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.
>>
>> I have been reading the various recent postings about outboard motors with
>> great interest. I have a 2007 Rhodes with a hand-start 4-stroke Honda 5 HP
>> motor probably of the same age.  It works reasonably well, although the gear
>> box had to be replaced a couple of years ago.  We also have a GB motor lift
>> trolley system, which continues to work very well.
>>
>>
>>
>> There are two chronic problems with the motor.  One is that shifting gears
>> is awkward.  The shift mechanism is not on the handle with the throttle.  It
>> is located on the side of the motor and is very hard to reach, especially if
>> I am facing forward.  Our jury-rig solution is to have a piece of PVC pipe
>> which I can put onto the shift mechanism when I am backing out of the slip
>> and need to change gears.  It is very clumsy (and can be lost overboard).
>> The other problem is that my wife and I are in our 70's.  She would be
>> unable to start the motor by pulling on the cord if something were to happen
>> to me.
>>
>>
>>
>> With these problems we need to make some changes, especially with regard to
>> the hand-start aspect of the motor.  Is it possible to retrofit some kind of
>> electric starter on a motor like ours?  Assuming not, we would be looking at
>> buying another motor. It would need to be electric start and have the shift
>> control on the handle with the throttle.  Our 5 HP Honda is also a little
>> underpowered  for our location on Portage Lake in northern Michigan,  which
>> connects to Lake Michigan.
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone have any suggestions for what we should look for in a
>> replacement motor? I don't think we want to get an electric motor as some on
>> the List have suggested, given the need to use it (or at least have it
>> available for use) on Lake Michigan.  I have seen suggestions on the List
>> for an 8 HP Mercury with the shift on the handle.
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, our hand-held anemometer broke.  Does anyone have suggestions about a
>> good hand-held anemometer to replace it?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bob Cohen
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> http://www.avast.com/<http://www.avast.com/>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Mon Apr  1 18:17:01 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 22:17:01 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
In-Reply-To: <CH0PR07MB8378981061ABC65BA9B3A998C63F2@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <44f801da8466$71410c70$53c32550$@gmail.com>
 <CH0PR07MB8378981061ABC65BA9B3A998C63F2@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288E657DAC1954C3FC7DB37803F2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Bob,
We?ve had good luck with our WeatherHawk WindMate 350.  Besides wind speed/direction, it reads dew point, air temperature, humidity, wind chill, heat index, and barometric pressure.  Our unit is >10 years old and is still working just fine.  It?s expensive; but, it?s a quality, well-made piece of gear.  West Marine sells these C/N: 9599340, SPEED#:27019 $249.99 + S&H
Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978. Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2024, at 3:02?PM, Weiss, Robert L via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> ?My Mercury 8 hp with electric start and the throttle on the tiller works great. While in 2014 Stan was not wanting to tell me what to get, he did suggest this as an option and it was plenty powerful and easy to shift with the tiller handle sticking up.
>
> Bob
> Beach Spring
>
> Robert L Weiss Jr.
> Director of Music
> First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
> Professor Emeritus, SIUC
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of bobfcohen at gmail.com <bobfcohen at gmail.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 1:57 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
>
> [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.
>
> I have been reading the various recent postings about outboard motors with
> great interest. I have a 2007 Rhodes with a hand-start 4-stroke Honda 5 HP
> motor probably of the same age.  It works reasonably well, although the gear
> box had to be replaced a couple of years ago.  We also have a GB motor lift
> trolley system, which continues to work very well.
>
>
>
> There are two chronic problems with the motor.  One is that shifting gears
> is awkward.  The shift mechanism is not on the handle with the throttle.  It
> is located on the side of the motor and is very hard to reach, especially if
> I am facing forward.  Our jury-rig solution is to have a piece of PVC pipe
> which I can put onto the shift mechanism when I am backing out of the slip
> and need to change gears.  It is very clumsy (and can be lost overboard).
> The other problem is that my wife and I are in our 70's.  She would be
> unable to start the motor by pulling on the cord if something were to happen
> to me.
>
>
>
> With these problems we need to make some changes, especially with regard to
> the hand-start aspect of the motor.  Is it possible to retrofit some kind of
> electric starter on a motor like ours?  Assuming not, we would be looking at
> buying another motor. It would need to be electric start and have the shift
> control on the handle with the throttle.  Our 5 HP Honda is also a little
> underpowered  for our location on Portage Lake in northern Michigan,  which
> connects to Lake Michigan.
>
>
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions for what we should look for in a
> replacement motor? I don't think we want to get an electric motor as some on
> the List have suggested, given the need to use it (or at least have it
> available for use) on Lake Michigan.  I have seen suggestions on the List
> for an 8 HP Mercury with the shift on the handle.
>
>
>
> Also, our hand-held anemometer broke.  Does anyone have suggestions about a
> good hand-held anemometer to replace it?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob Cohen
>
>
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> http://www.avast.com/<http://www.avast.com/>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Mon Apr  1 21:18:36 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2024 21:18:36 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] tap, tap, tap
Message-ID: <E1rrSnM-00EIwO-17@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Just checking to make sure I haven't broken the email list with all my new-fangled stuff...

--Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From shawn.sustain at gmail.com  Mon Apr  1 21:43:47 2024
From: shawn.sustain at gmail.com (Shawn Boles)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 18:43:47 -0700
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] tap, tap, tap
In-Reply-To: <E1rrSnM-00EIwO-17@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rrSnM-00EIwO-17@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CAMzGxuOJewKaTj8t4wWH74kBK4RpZ5Nk2zBN7YZvXtz5dAQi-g@mail.gmail.com>

All good here - thanks for all your work- cheers

Shawn
s/ v Sweet Baboo

On Mon, Apr 1, 2024, 6:18?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Just checking to make sure I haven't broken the email list with all my
> new-fangled stuff...
>
> --Peter
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Tue Apr  2 00:48:19 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 04:48:19 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] tap, tap, tap
In-Reply-To: <CAMzGxuOJewKaTj8t4wWH74kBK4RpZ5Nk2zBN7YZvXtz5dAQi-g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMzGxuOJewKaTj8t4wWH74kBK4RpZ5Nk2zBN7YZvXtz5dAQi-g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288809462F0DFD6D801386F803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Seems to be working?

Roger Pihlaja 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2024, at 9:44?PM, Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?All good here - thanks for all your work- cheers
> 
> Shawn
> s/ v Sweet Baboo
> 
>> On Mon, Apr 1, 2024, 6:18?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Just checking to make sure I haven't broken the email list with all my
>> new-fangled stuff...
>> 
>> --Peter
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 

From bobfcohen at gmail.com  Tue Apr  2 10:13:35 2024
From: bobfcohen at gmail.com (bobfcohen at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 10:13:35 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] tap, tap, tap
In-Reply-To: <E1rrSnM-00EIwO-17@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rrSnM-00EIwO-17@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <113801da8507$f3c09200$db41b600$@gmail.com>

OK here
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 9:19 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] tap, tap, tap

Just checking to make sure I haven't broken the email list with all my new-fangled stuff...

--Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Tue Apr  2 12:08:34 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 12:08:34 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hatch to Cabin
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288848EF0CC9C1F6F33F810802E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAPQvPRrgFhz29YGZjMrUeuSm=LLVF5ak71B4uGNsfQtxP5Rurg@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288848EF0CC9C1F6F33F810802E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+COG-hEs3GULryEn6UOhC=UZFxbbwLu4Z_sOaxb6PimDw@mail.gmail.com>

My old plywood hatch cover was in rough shape.  It had been painted white
but not soon enough or often enough.  I recently replaced using PVC plywood
from home depot and the original piano hinge.  Use the old and a pattern,
just a skill saw and a router bit for the edges.  Seems OK.  Light weight.
I painted it white over white but probably OK without paint.  It has wood
grain texture on one side.  I assume it will be fine and not warp or
anything in the hot sun but time will tell.

On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 12:19?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
wrote:

> Hi Cary,
>
> My 1978 Rhodes 22 has a luan teak plywood companionway hatch cover.  The
> hinge is a SS piano hinge.  I have to take the hatch cover apart, sand it
> down, and revarnish every couple of years.  But, given that minimal
> maintenance, it's still the original hatch cover.  Of course, it doesn't
> allow any light into the cabin when closed; but, it also doesn't get hot in
> direct sunshine.  Freshly varnished, I think it looks good, very
> traditional.  Even when UV stabilized, polycarbonate will take UV damage
> from the sun.  Polycarbonate is a crystaline polymer, which means it
> inherantly tends to fail by brittle fracture, even when new.  UV exposure
> only renders it more brittle.  Is your hinge thru bolted or are the screws
> threaded into the Lexan?  If it is threaded; then, you  could make it
> somewhat more resistant to cracking by drilling out the threads.  Then,
> thru bolt it using the biggest OD fender washers that will fit.  Thru
> bolting with fender washers to spread the load will make the hinge assembly
> much less likely to crack.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
>
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2024 6:31 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hatch to Cabin
>
> My hatch is made of 3/8 in. thick black polycarbonate (lexan). It has a
> crack at the bend. Like me it has been patched up and is still serviceable.
> I am thinking more about when the time comes to sell the boat. What
> material is General Boats currently using? The previous owner said the boat
> went through recycling in the early 2000s. So the polycarbonate has held up
> to abuse and the sun for 20 years.
> It does let some light into the cabin but the black color absorbs a lot of
> heat.
> Looking for suggestions and ideas of what may be the current or fashionable
> update for the market. I know tastes change but I still wear penny loafers
> style shoes from the 60s.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Cary Tolbert
> S/V Whisper   86
> Claytor Lake , VA
>

From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Tue Apr  2 13:51:30 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 13:51:30 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>

Hello all.

I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few years.
It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always
expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit
with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the
thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious but
not constant at all speeds.

Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake (clean
golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog* or
something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* (
but runs pretty good)

This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate to
scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less than
a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the cowling
so maybe I can find something suspicous.

The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the sides
but I don't know how much might be normal.

My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try running
again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure of any
miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.

Patrick

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Tue Apr  2 14:12:13 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 14:12:13 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>

Patrick,

I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you would know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the engine probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.

My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system. Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of the crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the air filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can become saturated with oil.

Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not stuck) piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the combustion path.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of PBR
Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb

Hello all.

I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few years.
It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious but not constant at all speeds.

Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake (clean golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog* or something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* ( but runs pretty good)

This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate to scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less than a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the cowling so maybe I can find something suspicous.

The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the sides but I don't know how much might be normal.

My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure of any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.

Patrick


From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Tue Apr  2 14:41:29 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 14:41:29 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+AZvVqrAbs5+NTrNXsxVRgtAEv9_GdWM+-Zz1xBsTHwPQ@mail.gmail.com>

Mike,
Unable to get a read on oil consumption as it has not been run since I
changed it other than these short starts for a few minutes.  Still full and
golden.  It does not appear to have an air filter.  Oil was dripping from
carb. intake side.  Some smoke would have to come from oil being sucked
through the card so I am very hopeful it is PVC.  I can't find much useful
info. in the manual so I'll just have to troubleshoot by hunting for
clogged tubes.
Thanks for giving me some hope.
Patrick


On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 2:12?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you would
> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the engine
> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
>
> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system. Usually
> there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of the
> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the air
> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can become
> saturated with oil.
>
> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the
> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not stuck)
> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
> combustion path.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of PBR
> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>
> Hello all.
>
> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few years.
> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always
> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit
> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the
> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious but
> not constant at all speeds.
>
> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake (clean
> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog* or
> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* (
> but runs pretty good)
>
> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate to
> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less than
> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the cowling
> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
>
> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the sides
> but I don't know how much might be normal.
>
> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure of
> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
>
> Patrick
>
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Tue Apr  2 16:02:27 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 20:02:27 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Patrick,

I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it on my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some engine oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the compression.  If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.  If the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage issues.   The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.  However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck piston rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ? the crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently crank it over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start the engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down and change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I don't have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck piston rings.

My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase breather cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of the engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never needed to get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I doubt there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.  However, I suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be clogged.  So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to verify that the plumbing is free and clear.

Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI



________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb

Patrick,

I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you would know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the engine probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.

My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system. Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of the crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the air filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can become saturated with oil.

Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not stuck) piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the combustion path.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of PBR
Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb

Hello all.

I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few years.
It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious but not constant at all speeds.

Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake (clean golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog* or something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* ( but runs pretty good)

This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate to scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less than a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the cowling so maybe I can find something suspicous.

The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the sides but I don't know how much might be normal.

My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure of any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.

Patrick


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Tue Apr  2 17:17:03 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2024 17:17:03 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: How it works
Message-ID: <E1rrlV9-000grF-0I@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

This post is about some of the inner workings of the web interface for the Rhodes 22 email list on rhodes22.net.

The Rhodes 22 email list is run by a program called 'Mailman'. Most of the data displayed by the email list web interface comes from Mailman archives.  But, to make the data easier and more efficient to retrieve and display, it is taken from the archives and placed into a relational database.

Initially, a bulk form of this process was run to convert many years of historical data.  After that, the process was run periodically to get recent updates.  Currently, the process is set to run every 5 minutes.

When the process finds a new message, it attempts to break it down into its component parts (e.g. sender, date, subject, main body, and quoted text from prior messages). The parsing of the message can be tricky because message formats are not entirely consistent.  

Every message viewed in the web interface will have a line at the bottom that reads ?See the original archive post?.  Clicking on this should open up a new browser tab that will display the message in the Mailman archives.  This was useful to me during development as a way to check to see if a message had been garbled by the conversion process.  I?ve decided to leave it in the interface for now.

 It seems to universal behavior of mail client programs that when you reply to an email, a new window is opened that contains the content of the message that?s being replied to.  Usually, this is set off, or indented in some way to enhance readability. The message parsing process attempts to differentiate new text vs old text, and if it succeeds (which it generally does), it will store them separately in the database.  This is done mostly so that searches can be better targeted (more on that in a later post), but it also affects how messages are displayed in the web interface.

When a message is initially displayed, only new text will be shown.  If the full message also contains text from earlier messages, a ?show more >>>? link will appear at the bottom.  Clicking on this will, naturally, display the older text.

One final bit of behavior of the web interface that might seem odd has to do with sending new messages to the list.  When a message is sent, a dialog box will appear stating that the message should appear in the web interface in 5 to 10 minutes.  The delay is because even though in theory the web interface could put the message directly into the database and display it immediately, it doesn?t do that.  Instead, it waits for the Mailman archive retrieval process to find it and add it to the database.

So again, the new web interface can be found at https://www.rhodes22.net.  Don't be shy about letting me know if you find problems, issues or bugs.  

?Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Tue Apr  2 23:24:48 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2024 03:24:48 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42888AB8AA3D15D6ACFB99C3803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Patrick,

I?ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out the carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the oil level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in the carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level would get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor, resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs dry.  I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston rings.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978  Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Patrick,
> 
> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it on my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some engine oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the compression.  If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.  If the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage issues.   The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.  However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck piston rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ? the crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently crank it over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start the engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down and change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I don't have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck piston rings.
> 
> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase breather cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of the engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never needed to get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I doubt there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.  However, I suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be clogged.  So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to verify that the plumbing is free and clear.
> 
> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> 
> Patrick,
> 
> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you would know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the engine probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
> 
> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system. Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of the crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the air filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can become saturated with oil.
> 
> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not stuck) piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the combustion path.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of PBR
> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few years.
> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious but not constant at all speeds.
> 
> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake (clean golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog* or something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* ( but runs pretty good)
> 
> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate to scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less than a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the cowling so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> 
> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
> 
> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure of any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> 
> Patrick
> 

From bobfcohen at gmail.com  Tue Apr  2 23:49:49 2024
From: bobfcohen at gmail.com (bobfcohen at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 23:49:49 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428810823059A9B15673017A803F2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CH0PR07MB8378981061ABC65BA9B3A998C63F2@CH0PR07MB8378.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <530FB96A-AE61-4D92-8EBC-99BEA19446B1@verizon.net>
 <MN2PR10MB428810823059A9B15673017A803F2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <139001da8579$fa305720$ee910560$@gmail.com>

Thank you Bob, Scott and Roger.  I will be looking at a Mercury 8 HP electric start and also at remote cockpit engine controls.  
Bob Cohen

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of ROGER PIHLAJA
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 5:59 PM
To: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>; The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions

Hi Bob and Scott,
I have the cockpit remote engine controls for my Honda 8 hp extra long shaft outboard.  The cockpit remote control unit is the same as the Honda 9.9 hp.  It?s a single lever shift/throttle design.  It makes close quarters maneuvering much less dramatic.  You stand in the cockpit with the tiller in your right hand and the engine controls in your left.  Total control - it?s wonderful!  I teach my Boy Scouts with this setup and they all catch on very quickly.  It also makes single handed docking much easier.  I highly recommend remote cockpit engine controls.!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2024, at 4:06?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> ?Greetings all, I have a 5 hp Mercury with the same issues as you Bob. I intend to upgrade to an electric start at some point. Also a Rhodie friend of mine paid 1,200$ to have cockpit shifter and throttle. He said it was the best money he ever spent on the boat. I may get that as well some day.
> Scott 86? Rhodes
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Apr 1, 2024, at 3:02?PM, Weiss, Robert L via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>
>> ?My Mercury 8 hp with electric start and the throttle on the tiller works great. While in 2014 Stan was not wanting to tell me what to get, he did suggest this as an option and it was plenty powerful and easy to shift with the tiller handle sticking up.
>>
>> Bob
>> Beach Spring
>>
>> Robert L Weiss Jr.
>> Director of Music
>> First United Methodist Carbondale, IL Professor Emeritus, SIUC 
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of 
>> bobfcohen at gmail.com <bobfcohen at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 1:57 PM
>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
>>
>> [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.
>>
>> I have been reading the various recent postings about outboard motors 
>> with great interest. I have a 2007 Rhodes with a hand-start 4-stroke 
>> Honda 5 HP motor probably of the same age.  It works reasonably well, 
>> although the gear box had to be replaced a couple of years ago.  We 
>> also have a GB motor lift trolley system, which continues to work very well.
>>
>>
>>
>> There are two chronic problems with the motor.  One is that shifting 
>> gears is awkward.  The shift mechanism is not on the handle with the 
>> throttle.  It is located on the side of the motor and is very hard to 
>> reach, especially if I am facing forward.  Our jury-rig solution is 
>> to have a piece of PVC pipe which I can put onto the shift mechanism 
>> when I am backing out of the slip and need to change gears.  It is very clumsy (and can be lost overboard).
>> The other problem is that my wife and I are in our 70's.  She would 
>> be unable to start the motor by pulling on the cord if something were 
>> to happen to me.
>>
>>
>>
>> With these problems we need to make some changes, especially with 
>> regard to the hand-start aspect of the motor.  Is it possible to 
>> retrofit some kind of electric starter on a motor like ours?  
>> Assuming not, we would be looking at buying another motor. It would 
>> need to be electric start and have the shift control on the handle 
>> with the throttle.  Our 5 HP Honda is also a little underpowered  for 
>> our location on Portage Lake in northern Michigan,  which connects to Lake Michigan.
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone have any suggestions for what we should look for in a 
>> replacement motor? I don't think we want to get an electric motor as 
>> some on the List have suggested, given the need to use it (or at 
>> least have it available for use) on Lake Michigan.  I have seen 
>> suggestions on the List for an 8 HP Mercury with the shift on the handle.
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, our hand-held anemometer broke.  Does anyone have suggestions 
>> about a good hand-held anemometer to replace it?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bob Cohen
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> http://www.avast.com/<http://www.avast.com/>
>


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com

From bettyfriedman at comcast.net  Wed Apr  3 08:20:08 2024
From: bettyfriedman at comcast.net (Betty Friedman)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2024 08:20:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4546, Issue 1
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2179.1712092626.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
References: <mailman.2179.1712092626.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
Message-ID: <0515A30D-5979-42CB-A748-37FADCB89CD2@comcast.net>

Please take me off the list. Thanks. I no longer wish to receive emails. 

Sent from my iPhone by Betty Friedman

> On Apr 2, 2024, at 5:17?PM, rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org wrote:
> 
> ?Send Rhodes22-list mailing list submissions to
>    rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    rhodes22-list-request at rhodes22.org
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    rhodes22-list-owner at rhodes22.org
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Rhodes22-list digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. A Web Interface for ?Da List? (Peter Nyberg)
>   2. A Web Interface for ?Da List? (Peter Nyberg)
>   3. Re: A Web Interface for ???Da List??? (Reuben Mezrich)
>   4. Re: A Web Interface for 'Da List' (Peter Nyberg)
>   5. Re: Some questions (Scott Andrews)
>   6. Re: A Web Interface for 'Da List' (Michael D. Weisner)
>   7. Re: Some questions (ROGER PIHLAJA)
>   8. Re: Some questions (ROGER PIHLAJA)
>   9. tap, tap, tap (Peter Nyberg)
>  10. Re: tap, tap, tap (Shawn Boles)
>  11. Re: tap, tap, tap (ROGER PIHLAJA)
>  12. Re: tap, tap, tap (bobfcohen at gmail.com)
>  13. Re: Hatch to Cabin (PBR)
>  14. Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb (PBR)
>  15. Re: Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb (Michael D. Weisner)
>  16. Re: Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb (PBR)
>  17. Re: Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb (ROGER PIHLAJA)
>  18. Web Interface: How it works (Peter Nyberg)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2024 15:20:49 -0400
> From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: A Web Interface for ?Da List?
> Message-ID: <E1rrND7-00AoEr-2G at mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Back in 2021, I rewrote the website for rhodes22.org.  No-one asked me to do this, but the 20 year old website was showing its age, and I enjoyed the challenge.  There was little in the way of new technology involved, both the old and new websites were mostly static HTML web pages.  When I was done, Mike Weisner, the rhodes22.org webmaster, was gracious enough to install the new web pages, and little has changed since.
> 
> Not being willing to let well enough alone though, I kept working.  I wrote web pages and programs that created a web interface for the Rhodes 22 email list (a.k.a. ?da list?).  This work definitely did involve new technology.  Implementing these changes on rhodes22.org would have required adding support for several new programming languages, and a database management system (DBMS).
> 
> Mike said he would look into doing this, but it never happened.  I don?t blame Mike for hesitating.  It would be a lot of work to set up initially, and then the more complicated environment would have to be maintained going forward.
> 
> So, for the last three years, I?ve been using this new functionality in my test workspace, and sometimes I?d forget that I?m the only person using this web interface to read and send messages.  Then I got a new bee in my bonnet.
> 
> I started a thread a few weeks ago regarding my concern about declining activity on the email list.  The thread didn?t get a lot of traction, but that?s not enough to deter me.  My hypothesis was that being only an email based discussion group may be limiting our appeal.  No one seemed to agree, but then the only people who saw my message were people comfortable using an email list discussion group.
> 
> But then it occurred to me that the web interface I?d developed could be deployed anywhere, it didn?t need to be on rhodes22.org.
> 
> I found that the domain ?rhodes22.net' was available, so I bought that  I then found a web hosting plan that had the technologies I needed, and installed the email list web interface there.
> 
> My hope is that it will attract people who would not have participated in a community only available via email.  Failing that, perhaps some members will find the web interface to be a useful alternative.
> 
> Of course, there?s always the possibility that the whole thing will crash and burn the first time two people try to use it at the same time.  We?ll see.
> 
> Anyone who is a member of Rhodes 22 Email List can sign on to rhodes22.net using the same email address as a user id.
> 
> Those interested can check out the new web interface at https://www.rhodes22.net
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> 
> 
> << Sent From rhodes22.net >>
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2024 15:34:11 -0400
> From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: A Web Interface for ?Da List?
> Message-ID: <E1rrNQ3-00Aw0E-0C at mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Back in 2021, I rewrote the website for rhodes22.org.  No-one asked me to do this, but the 20 year old website was showing its age, and I enjoyed the challenge.  There was little in the way of new technology involved, both the old and new websites were mostly static HTML web pages.  When I was done. Mike Weisner, the rhodes22.org webmaster, was gracious enough to install the new web pages, and little has changed since.
> 
> Not being willing to let well enough alone though, I kept working.  I wrote web pages and programs that created a web interface for the Rhodes 22 email list (a.k.a. ?da list?).  This work definitely did involve new technology.  Implementing these changes on rhodes22.org would have required adding support for several new programming languages, and a database management system (DBMS).
> 
> Mike said he would look into doing this, but it never happened.  I don?t blame Mike for hesitating.  It would be a lot of work to set up initially, and then the more complicated environment would have to be maintained going forward.
> 
> So, for the last three years, I?ve been using this new functionality in my test workspace, and sometimes I?d forget that I?m the only person using this web interface to read and send messages.  Then I got a new bee in my bonnet.
> 
> I started a thread a few weeks ago regarding my concern about declining activity on the email list.  The thread didn?t get a lot of traction, but that?s not enough to deter me.  My hypothesis was that being only an email based discussion group may be limiting our appeal.  No one seemed to agree, but then the only people who saw my message were people comfortable using an email list discussion group.
> 
> But then it occurred to me that the web interface I?d developed could be deployed anywhere, it didn?t need to be on rhodes22.org.
> 
> I found that the domain ?rhodes22.net' was available, so I bought that  I then found a web hosting plan that had the technologies I needed, and installed the email list web interface there.
> 
> My hope is that it will attract people who would not have participated in a community only available via email.  Failing that, perhaps some members will find the web interface to be a useful alternative.
> 
> Of course, there?s always the possibility that the whole thing will crash and burn the first time two people try to use it at the same time.  We?ll see.
> 
> Anyone who is a member of Rhodes 22 Email List can sign on to rhodes22.net using the same email address as a user id.
> 
> Those interested can check out the new web interface at https://www.rhodes22.net
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> 
> << Sent From rhodes22.net >>
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2024 15:46:24 -0400
> From: Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: A Web Interface for ???Da List???
> Message-ID: <E1rrNbs-00B2gw-0t at mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Peter
> This is excellent!
> I imagine there are costs related to hosting the website...can I contribute?
> --Reuben
> 
> << Sent From rhodes22.net >>
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2024 16:05:13 -0400
> From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] A Web Interface for 'Da List'
> Message-ID: <E1rrNu5-00BIvB-21 at mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Reuben,
> 
> I'm glad you like it.  Let's not get ahead of ourselves.  The costs are not large, and this thing has a way to go to prove itself useful.  
> 
> There seems to be an issue with special characters in the subject line, for instance.
> 
> The double sending of the first message was due to me being nervous about kicking this off, not a technical glitch.
> 
> --Peter
> 
>> On 2024-04-01, at 15:46:24 EDT, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
>> 
>> Peter
>> This is excellent!
>> I imagine there are costs related to hosting the website...can I contribute?
>> --Reuben
>> 
>> &lt;&lt; Sent From rhodes22.net &gt;&gt;
>> 
> 
> 
> << Sent From rhodes22.net >>
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 16:06:32 -0400
> From: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>
> To: "Weiss, Robert L" <rweiss at siu.edu>, The Rhodes 22 Email List
>    <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
> Message-ID: <530FB96A-AE61-4D92-8EBC-99BEA19446B1 at verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> Greetings all, I have a 5 hp Mercury with the same issues as you Bob. I intend to upgrade to an electric start at some point. Also a Rhodie friend of mine paid 1,200$ to have cockpit shifter and throttle. He said it was the best money he ever spent on the boat. I may get that as well some day.
> Scott 86? Rhodes
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2024, at 3:02?PM, Weiss, Robert L via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> ?My Mercury 8 hp with electric start and the throttle on the tiller works great. While in 2014 Stan was not wanting to tell me what to get, he did suggest this as an option and it was plenty powerful and easy to shift with the tiller handle sticking up.
>> 
>> Bob
>> Beach Spring
>> 
>> Robert L Weiss Jr.
>> Director of Music
>> First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
>> Professor Emeritus, SIUC
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of bobfcohen at gmail.com <bobfcohen at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 1:57 PM
>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
>> 
>> [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.
>> 
>> I have been reading the various recent postings about outboard motors with
>> great interest. I have a 2007 Rhodes with a hand-start 4-stroke Honda 5 HP
>> motor probably of the same age.  It works reasonably well, although the gear
>> box had to be replaced a couple of years ago.  We also have a GB motor lift
>> trolley system, which continues to work very well.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> There are two chronic problems with the motor.  One is that shifting gears
>> is awkward.  The shift mechanism is not on the handle with the throttle.  It
>> is located on the side of the motor and is very hard to reach, especially if
>> I am facing forward.  Our jury-rig solution is to have a piece of PVC pipe
>> which I can put onto the shift mechanism when I am backing out of the slip
>> and need to change gears.  It is very clumsy (and can be lost overboard).
>> The other problem is that my wife and I are in our 70's.  She would be
>> unable to start the motor by pulling on the cord if something were to happen
>> to me.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> With these problems we need to make some changes, especially with regard to
>> the hand-start aspect of the motor.  Is it possible to retrofit some kind of
>> electric starter on a motor like ours?  Assuming not, we would be looking at
>> buying another motor. It would need to be electric start and have the shift
>> control on the handle with the throttle.  Our 5 HP Honda is also a little
>> underpowered  for our location on Portage Lake in northern Michigan,  which
>> connects to Lake Michigan.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Does anyone have any suggestions for what we should look for in a
>> replacement motor? I don't think we want to get an electric motor as some on
>> the List have suggested, given the need to use it (or at least have it
>> available for use) on Lake Michigan.  I have seen suggestions on the List
>> for an 8 HP Mercury with the shift on the handle.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Also, our hand-held anemometer broke.  Does anyone have suggestions about a
>> good hand-held anemometer to replace it?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Bob Cohen
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://nam11.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2F&data=05%7C02%7Crweiss%40siu.edu%7C2ba36ba92b0e438b9ee208dc527d958d%7Cd57a98e7744d43f9bc9108de1ff3710d%7C0%7C0%7C638475946974279297%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C40000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=X0Vvxy5JdFNtu2YfV%2FmI0ELOdAhydr%2BvyL43VVlbOA0%3D&reserved=0<http://www.avast.com/>
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 17:06:15 -0400
> From: "Michael D. Weisner" <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] A Web Interface for 'Da List'
> Message-ID: <003c01da8478$6faa1390$4efe3ab0$@ebsmed.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="utf-8"
> 
> Peter,
> 
> Thank you for creating the current Rhodes22.org website and setting up the next generation version for testing at Rhodes22.net. I have been fairly busy taking care of elder family members (and estates), my retirement, family weddings and, most importantly, getting ready for the sailing season. There was little time to devote to testing the new site.
> 
> We do have some money left in the Rhodes22.org donations account that can probably cover your costs. Please email me a reconciliation and I will pay it. If anyone on the list has an issue with this, please let me know.
> 
> As we have discussed previously, I had placed rhodes22.org on the AWS platform (Amazon servers) to avoid succession issues as new folks take over management of the website and email list. Unfortunately, I have taken no actions to provide a method of handing off the management tasks. I would welcome anyone who wants to share or take over the responsibilities. The position of webmaster is always available to Rhodies who have the time and abilities. While I do not discriminate against age, youth is a plus.
> 
> Thanks again, Peter, for all that you do for the Rhodies.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
> Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 4:05 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] A Web Interface for 'Da List'
> 
> Reuben,
> 
> I'm glad you like it.  Let's not get ahead of ourselves.  The costs are not large, and this thing has a way to go to prove itself useful.  
> 
> There seems to be an issue with special characters in the subject line, for instance.
> 
> The double sending of the first message was due to me being nervous about kicking this off, not a technical glitch.
> 
> --Peter
> 
>> On 2024-04-01, at 15:46:24 EDT, Reuben Mezrich wrote:
>> 
>> Peter
>> This is excellent!
>> I imagine there are costs related to hosting the website...can I contribute?
>> --Reuben
>> 
>> &lt;&lt; Sent From rhodes22.net &gt;&gt;
>> 
> 
> 
> << Sent From rhodes22.net >>
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 21:58:49 +0000
> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> To: Scott Andrews <sea20 at verizon.net>, The Rhodes 22 Email List
>    <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
> Message-ID:
>    <MN2PR10MB428810823059A9B15673017A803F2 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Bob and Scott,
> I have the cockpit remote engine controls for my Honda 8 hp extra long shaft outboard.  The cockpit remote control unit is the same as the Honda 9.9 hp.  It?s a single lever shift/throttle design.  It makes close quarters maneuvering much less dramatic.  You stand in the cockpit with the tiller in your right hand and the engine controls in your left.  Total control - it?s wonderful!  I teach my Boy Scouts with this setup and they all catch on very quickly.  It also makes single handed docking much easier.  I highly recommend remote cockpit engine controls.!
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2024, at 4:06?PM, Scott Andrews via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Greetings all, I have a 5 hp Mercury with the same issues as you Bob. I intend to upgrade to an electric start at some point. Also a Rhodie friend of mine paid 1,200$ to have cockpit shifter and throttle. He said it was the best money he ever spent on the boat. I may get that as well some day.
>> Scott 86? Rhodes
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Apr 1, 2024, at 3:02?PM, Weiss, Robert L via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?My Mercury 8 hp with electric start and the throttle on the tiller works great. While in 2014 Stan was not wanting to tell me what to get, he did suggest this as an option and it was plenty powerful and easy to shift with the tiller handle sticking up.
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>> Beach Spring
>>> 
>>> Robert L Weiss Jr.
>>> Director of Music
>>> First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
>>> Professor Emeritus, SIUC
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of bobfcohen at gmail.com <bobfcohen at gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 1:57 PM
>>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
>>> 
>>> [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.
>>> 
>>> I have been reading the various recent postings about outboard motors with
>>> great interest. I have a 2007 Rhodes with a hand-start 4-stroke Honda 5 HP
>>> motor probably of the same age.  It works reasonably well, although the gear
>>> box had to be replaced a couple of years ago.  We also have a GB motor lift
>>> trolley system, which continues to work very well.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> There are two chronic problems with the motor.  One is that shifting gears
>>> is awkward.  The shift mechanism is not on the handle with the throttle.  It
>>> is located on the side of the motor and is very hard to reach, especially if
>>> I am facing forward.  Our jury-rig solution is to have a piece of PVC pipe
>>> which I can put onto the shift mechanism when I am backing out of the slip
>>> and need to change gears.  It is very clumsy (and can be lost overboard).
>>> The other problem is that my wife and I are in our 70's.  She would be
>>> unable to start the motor by pulling on the cord if something were to happen
>>> to me.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> With these problems we need to make some changes, especially with regard to
>>> the hand-start aspect of the motor.  Is it possible to retrofit some kind of
>>> electric starter on a motor like ours?  Assuming not, we would be looking at
>>> buying another motor. It would need to be electric start and have the shift
>>> control on the handle with the throttle.  Our 5 HP Honda is also a little
>>> underpowered  for our location on Portage Lake in northern Michigan,  which
>>> connects to Lake Michigan.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Does anyone have any suggestions for what we should look for in a
>>> replacement motor? I don't think we want to get an electric motor as some on
>>> the List have suggested, given the need to use it (or at least have it
>>> available for use) on Lake Michigan.  I have seen suggestions on the List
>>> for an 8 HP Mercury with the shift on the handle.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Also, our hand-held anemometer broke.  Does anyone have suggestions about a
>>> good hand-held anemometer to replace it?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Bob Cohen
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>>> http://www.avast.com/<http://www.avast.com/>
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 22:17:01 +0000
> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> To: "Weiss, Robert L" <rweiss at siu.edu>, The Rhodes 22 Email List
>    <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
> Message-ID:
>    <MN2PR10MB4288E657DAC1954C3FC7DB37803F2 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Bob,
> We?ve had good luck with our WeatherHawk WindMate 350.  Besides wind speed/direction, it reads dew point, air temperature, humidity, wind chill, heat index, and barometric pressure.  Our unit is >10 years old and is still working just fine.  It?s expensive; but, it?s a quality, well-made piece of gear.  West Marine sells these C/N: 9599340, SPEED#:27019 $249.99 + S&H
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978. Sanford, MI
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2024, at 3:02?PM, Weiss, Robert L via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> ?My Mercury 8 hp with electric start and the throttle on the tiller works great. While in 2014 Stan was not wanting to tell me what to get, he did suggest this as an option and it was plenty powerful and easy to shift with the tiller handle sticking up.
>> 
>> Bob
>> Beach Spring
>> 
>> Robert L Weiss Jr.
>> Director of Music
>> First United Methodist Carbondale, IL
>> Professor Emeritus, SIUC
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of bobfcohen at gmail.com <bobfcohen at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 1:57 PM
>> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Some questions
>> 
>> [EXTERNAL EMAIL ALERT]: Verify sender before opening links or attachments.
>> 
>> I have been reading the various recent postings about outboard motors with
>> great interest. I have a 2007 Rhodes with a hand-start 4-stroke Honda 5 HP
>> motor probably of the same age.  It works reasonably well, although the gear
>> box had to be replaced a couple of years ago.  We also have a GB motor lift
>> trolley system, which continues to work very well.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> There are two chronic problems with the motor.  One is that shifting gears
>> is awkward.  The shift mechanism is not on the handle with the throttle.  It
>> is located on the side of the motor and is very hard to reach, especially if
>> I am facing forward.  Our jury-rig solution is to have a piece of PVC pipe
>> which I can put onto the shift mechanism when I am backing out of the slip
>> and need to change gears.  It is very clumsy (and can be lost overboard).
>> The other problem is that my wife and I are in our 70's.  She would be
>> unable to start the motor by pulling on the cord if something were to happen
>> to me.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> With these problems we need to make some changes, especially with regard to
>> the hand-start aspect of the motor.  Is it possible to retrofit some kind of
>> electric starter on a motor like ours?  Assuming not, we would be looking at
>> buying another motor. It would need to be electric start and have the shift
>> control on the handle with the throttle.  Our 5 HP Honda is also a little
>> underpowered  for our location on Portage Lake in northern Michigan,  which
>> connects to Lake Michigan.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Does anyone have any suggestions for what we should look for in a
>> replacement motor? I don't think we want to get an electric motor as some on
>> the List have suggested, given the need to use it (or at least have it
>> available for use) on Lake Michigan.  I have seen suggestions on the List
>> for an 8 HP Mercury with the shift on the handle.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Also, our hand-held anemometer broke.  Does anyone have suggestions about a
>> good hand-held anemometer to replace it?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Bob Cohen
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> http://www.avast.com/<http://www.avast.com/>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2024 21:18:36 -0400
> From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] tap, tap, tap
> Message-ID: <E1rrSnM-00EIwO-17 at mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Just checking to make sure I haven't broken the email list with all my new-fangled stuff...
> 
> --Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2024 18:43:47 -0700
> From: Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] tap, tap, tap
> Message-ID:
>    <CAMzGxuOJewKaTj8t4wWH74kBK4RpZ5Nk2zBN7YZvXtz5dAQi-g at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> All good here - thanks for all your work- cheers
> 
> Shawn
> s/ v Sweet Baboo
> 
>> On Mon, Apr 1, 2024, 6:18?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Just checking to make sure I haven't broken the email list with all my
>> new-fangled stuff...
>> 
>> --Peter
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 04:48:19 +0000
> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] tap, tap, tap
> Message-ID:
>    <MN2PR10MB4288809462F0DFD6D801386F803E2 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Seems to be working?
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2024, at 9:44?PM, Shawn Boles <shawn.sustain at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?All good here - thanks for all your work- cheers
>> 
>> Shawn
>> s/ v Sweet Baboo
>> 
>>>> On Mon, Apr 1, 2024, 6:18?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Just checking to make sure I haven't broken the email list with all my
>>> new-fangled stuff...
>>> 
>>> --Peter
>>> 
>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 10:13:35 -0400
> From: <bobfcohen at gmail.com>
> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] tap, tap, tap
> Message-ID: <113801da8507$f3c09200$db41b600$@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="utf-8"
> 
> OK here
> Bob
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
> Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 9:19 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] tap, tap, tap
> 
> Just checking to make sure I haven't broken the email list with all my new-fangled stuff...
> 
> --Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
> 
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 13
> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 12:08:34 -0400
> From: PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Hatch to Cabin
> Message-ID:
>    <CAJGJx+COG-hEs3GULryEn6UOhC=UZFxbbwLu4Z_sOaxb6PimDw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> My old plywood hatch cover was in rough shape.  It had been painted white
> but not soon enough or often enough.  I recently replaced using PVC plywood
> from home depot and the original piano hinge.  Use the old and a pattern,
> just a skill saw and a router bit for the edges.  Seems OK.  Light weight.
> I painted it white over white but probably OK without paint.  It has wood
> grain texture on one side.  I assume it will be fine and not warp or
> anything in the hot sun but time will tell.
> 
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 12:19?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Hi Cary,
>> 
>> My 1978 Rhodes 22 has a luan teak plywood companionway hatch cover.  The
>> hinge is a SS piano hinge.  I have to take the hatch cover apart, sand it
>> down, and revarnish every couple of years.  But, given that minimal
>> maintenance, it's still the original hatch cover.  Of course, it doesn't
>> allow any light into the cabin when closed; but, it also doesn't get hot in
>> direct sunshine.  Freshly varnished, I think it looks good, very
>> traditional.  Even when UV stabilized, polycarbonate will take UV damage
>> from the sun.  Polycarbonate is a crystaline polymer, which means it
>> inherantly tends to fail by brittle fracture, even when new.  UV exposure
>> only renders it more brittle.  Is your hinge thru bolted or are the screws
>> threaded into the Lexan?  If it is threaded; then, you  could make it
>> somewhat more resistant to cracking by drilling out the threads.  Then,
>> thru bolt it using the biggest OD fender washers that will fit.  Thru
>> bolting with fender washers to spread the load will make the hinge assembly
>> much less likely to crack.
>> 
>> Roger Pihlaja
>> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
>> 1978  Sanford, MI
>> 
>> ________________________________
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
>> Cary Tolbert <retiredtoby at gmail.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2024 6:31 PM
>> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Hatch to Cabin
>> 
>> My hatch is made of 3/8 in. thick black polycarbonate (lexan). It has a
>> crack at the bend. Like me it has been patched up and is still serviceable.
>> I am thinking more about when the time comes to sell the boat. What
>> material is General Boats currently using? The previous owner said the boat
>> went through recycling in the early 2000s. So the polycarbonate has held up
>> to abuse and the sun for 20 years.
>> It does let some light into the cabin but the black color absorbs a lot of
>> heat.
>> Looking for suggestions and ideas of what may be the current or fashionable
>> update for the market. I know tastes change but I still wear penny loafers
>> style shoes from the 60s.
>> 
>> Thanks for your help.
>> 
>> Cary Tolbert
>> S/V Whisper   86
>> Claytor Lake , VA
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 14
> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 13:51:30 -0400
> From: PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> To: "rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> Message-ID:
>    <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few years.
> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always
> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit
> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the
> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious but
> not constant at all speeds.
> 
> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake (clean
> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog* or
> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* (
> but runs pretty good)
> 
> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate to
> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less than
> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the cowling
> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> 
> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the sides
> but I don't know how much might be normal.
> 
> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try running
> again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure of any
> miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> 
> Patrick
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 15
> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 14:12:13 -0400
> From: "Michael D. Weisner" <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> To: "'The Rhodes 22 Email List'" <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> Message-ID: <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="utf-8"
> 
> Patrick,
> 
> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you would know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the engine probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
> 
> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system. Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of the crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the air filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can become saturated with oil.
> 
> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not stuck) piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the combustion path.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of PBR
> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few years.
> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious but not constant at all speeds.
> 
> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake (clean golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog* or something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* ( but runs pretty good)
> 
> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate to scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less than a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the cowling so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> 
> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
> 
> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure of any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> 
> Patrick
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 16
> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 14:41:29 -0400
> From: PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> Message-ID:
>    <CAJGJx+AZvVqrAbs5+NTrNXsxVRgtAEv9_GdWM+-Zz1xBsTHwPQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Mike,
> Unable to get a read on oil consumption as it has not been run since I
> changed it other than these short starts for a few minutes.  Still full and
> golden.  It does not appear to have an air filter.  Oil was dripping from
> carb. intake side.  Some smoke would have to come from oil being sucked
> through the card so I am very hopeful it is PVC.  I can't find much useful
> info. in the manual so I'll just have to troubleshoot by hunting for
> clogged tubes.
> Thanks for giving me some hope.
> Patrick
> 
> 
> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 2:12?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> Patrick,
>> 
>> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you would
>> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the engine
>> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
>> 
>> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system. Usually
>> there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of the
>> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the air
>> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can become
>> saturated with oil.
>> 
>> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the
>> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not stuck)
>> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
>> combustion path.
>> 
>> Mike
>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>> Nissequogue River, NY
>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of PBR
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
>> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
>> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
>> 
>> Hello all.
>> 
>> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few years.
>> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
>> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always
>> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
>> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit
>> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
>> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the
>> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
>> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious but
>> not constant at all speeds.
>> 
>> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake (clean
>> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog* or
>> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* (
>> but runs pretty good)
>> 
>> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate to
>> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less than
>> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
>> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the cowling
>> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
>> 
>> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the sides
>> but I don't know how much might be normal.
>> 
>> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
>> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure of
>> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
>> 
>> Patrick
>> 
>> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 17
> Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2024 20:02:27 +0000
> From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com>
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> Message-ID:
>    <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2 at MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> Hi Patrick,
> 
> I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it on my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some engine oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the compression.  If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.  If the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage issues.   The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.  However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck piston rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ? the crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently cra
> nk it over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start the engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down and change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I don't have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck piston rings.
> 
> My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase breather cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of the engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never needed to get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I doubt there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.  However, I suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be clogged.  So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to verify that the plumbing is free and clear.
> 
> Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
> To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> 
> Patrick,
> 
> I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you would know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the engine probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
> 
> My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system. Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of the crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the air filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can become saturated with oil.
> 
> Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not stuck) piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the combustion path.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of PBR
> Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few years.
> It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
> Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious but not constant at all speeds.
> 
> Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake (clean golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog* or something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* ( but runs pretty good)
> 
> This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate to scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less than a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the cowling so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> 
> The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
> 
> My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure of any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> 
> Patrick
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 18
> Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2024 17:17:03 -0400
> From: Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: How it works
> Message-ID: <E1rrlV9-000grF-0I at mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> This post is about some of the inner workings of the web interface for the Rhodes 22 email list on rhodes22.net.
> 
> The Rhodes 22 email list is run by a program called 'Mailman'. Most of the data displayed by the email list web interface comes from Mailman archives.  But, to make the data easier and more efficient to retrieve and display, it is taken from the archives and placed into a relational database.
> 
> Initially, a bulk form of this process was run to convert many years of historical data.  After that, the process was run periodically to get recent updates.  Currently, the process is set to run every 5 minutes.
> 
> When the process finds a new message, it attempts to break it down into its component parts (e.g. sender, date, subject, main body, and quoted text from prior messages). The parsing of the message can be tricky because message formats are not entirely consistent.  
> 
> Every message viewed in the web interface will have a line at the bottom that reads ?See the original archive post?.  Clicking on this should open up a new browser tab that will display the message in the Mailman archives.  This was useful to me during development as a way to check to see if a message had been garbled by the conversion process.  I?ve decided to leave it in the interface for now.
> 
> It seems to universal behavior of mail client programs that when you reply to an email, a new window is opened that contains the content of the message that?s being replied to.  Usually, this is set off, or indented in some way to enhance readability. The message parsing process attempts to differentiate new text vs old text, and if it succeeds (which it generally does), it will store them separately in the database.  This is done mostly so that searches can be better targeted (more on that in a later post), but it also affects how messages are displayed in the web interface.
> 
> When a message is initially displayed, only new text will be shown.  If the full message also contains text from earlier messages, a ?show more >>>? link will appear at the bottom.  Clicking on this will, naturally, display the older text.
> 
> One final bit of behavior of the web interface that might seem odd has to do with sending new messages to the list.  When a message is sent, a dialog box will appear stating that the message should appear in the web interface in 5 to 10 minutes.  The delay is because even though in theory the web interface could put the message directly into the database and display it immediately, it doesn?t do that.  Instead, it waits for the Mailman archive retrieval process to find it and add it to the database.
> 
> So again, the new web interface can be found at https://www.rhodes22.net.  Don't be shy about letting me know if you find problems, issues or bugs.  
> 
> ?Peter
> 
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Rhodes22-list mailing list
> Rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> http://rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Rhodes22-list Digest, Vol 4546, Issue 1
> **********************************************


From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Wed Apr  3 08:36:29 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2024 08:36:29 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB42888AB8AA3D15D6ACFB99C3803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888AB8AA3D15D6ACFB99C3803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+ByL3JRjcaTAevqq-Hx2H+XD=12WSVDYHyu7zKGS8QJqg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Roger,
I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it might
take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and my
modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this time
when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester with
the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35 years ago
so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am guessing I
would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester in
place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8 cyl
engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).

I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.

Patrick


On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Patrick,
>
> I?ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out the
> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the oil
> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in the
> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level would
> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs dry.
> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston rings.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hi Patrick,
> >
> > I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it on
> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some engine
> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the compression.
> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.  If
> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage issues.
>  The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck piston
> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ? the
> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently crank it
> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start the
> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down and
> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I don't
> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck piston
> rings.
> >
> > My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase breather
> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of the
> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never needed to
> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I doubt
> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.  However, I
> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be clogged.
> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to verify
> that the plumbing is free and clear.
> >
> > Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978  Sanford, MI
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >
> > Patrick,
> >
> > I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you would
> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the engine
> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
> >
> > My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of the
> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the air
> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can become
> saturated with oil.
> >
> > Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the
> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not stuck)
> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
> combustion path.
> >
> > Mike
> > s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > Nissequogue River, NY
> > I?d rather be sailing :~)
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> PBR
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >
> > Hello all.
> >
> > I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few years.
> > It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always
> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit
> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the
> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
> > Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious
> but not constant at all speeds.
> >
> > Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake (clean
> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog* or
> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* (
> but runs pretty good)
> >
> > This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate to
> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less than
> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the cowling
> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> >
> > The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
> >
> > My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure of
> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> >
> > Patrick
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Apr  3 08:48:51 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2024 12:48:51 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
In-Reply-To: <CAJGJx+ByL3JRjcaTAevqq-Hx2H+XD=12WSVDYHyu7zKGS8QJqg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJGJx+B0jCt0RDjLOj4CeF68NU+CCNbbcdx2TK6EmPU7BR9nuA@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501da8529$4a147920$de3d6b60$@ebsmed.com>
 <MN2PR10MB4288C9575390A1C94CA7F8BF803E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <MN2PR10MB42888AB8AA3D15D6ACFB99C3803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJGJx+ByL3JRjcaTAevqq-Hx2H+XD=12WSVDYHyu7zKGS8QJqg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288A62ABD4CC725192A545C803D2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Patrick,

I would check the oil level 1st.  On a 2 cylinder engine, I would pull both spark plugs when checking the compression.  That way, the starter will spin the engine faster and both cylinders will see the same test RPM.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of PBR <pbryanriley at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 3, 2024 8:36 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb

Thanks Roger,
I will try all of these suggestions.  I'll keep you all posted but it might
take me a while to find the time.  I do use just ethanol free gas and my
modus operandi has been to run the gas out, but I admit during this time
when I have been just starting and running the motor periodically I
probably have skipped that a few times.  I have a compression tester with
the rubber insert.  Came with a tune up kit I picked  up about 35 years ago
so probably american made and still working...  To do this I am guessing I
would hook up the battery and crank the motor while holding the tester in
place?  both plugs out or one in one out. (I seem to remember with 8 cyl
engines my pals just did one at a time and started the engine).

I do have an alternate motor ready to go on a Rhodes so if I get some
sailing opportunities I have no excuses not to get out there.

Patrick


On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:24?PM ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:

> Hi Patrick,
>
> I?ve been thinking more about your issue with engine oil dripping out the
> carburetor.  Check the engine oil level with the dip stick.  If the oil
> level is high; then, you may have an issue with the float level in the
> carburetor.  High fuel level in the float bowl would allow fuel to
> contaminate the engine oil.  Eventually, the diluted engine oil level would
> get high enough that oil would start backing up into the carburetor,
> resulting in your observed carb oil drip.  A sticky float would be
> consistent with an engine that sits a lot between runs.  I always
> disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until the carburetor runs dry.
> I think this explanation is more likely than stuck or worn piston rings.
>
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 2, 2024, at 4:02?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <Roger_Pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hi Patrick,
> >
> > I have a Honda BF9.9AXSA outboard motor, model year 2000.  I use it on
> my Walker Bay RIB.  If you have a compression tester, you can quickly
> determine the status of your piston rings and valves.  The factory
> compression spec is 156 +/- 14 psi when the engine is cold.  If your
> compression meets spec in both cylinders; then, your piston rings and
> valves are OK.  If the compression values are low; then, squirt some engine
> oil into the spark plug hole on each cylinder and retest the compression.
> If the compression improves; then, you have worn/stuck piston rings.  If
> the compression does not improve; then, you have valve leakage issues.
>  The only way to fix valve leakage is with a cylinder head rebuild.
> However, since your engine still runs, if your problem is stuck piston
> rings; then, you may be able to free them up.  Drain out about ? the
> crankcase oil and refill with a product like Slick 50 Synthetic Oil
> Treatment.  Squirt some Slick 50 into each spark plug hole, gently crank it
> over a few revs, and then let it sit overnight.  The next day, start the
> engine, and let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.  Then, shut it down and
> change the oil.  Hopefully, this will free up the piston rings.  I don't
> have much faith in any fuel additive's ability to free up stuck piston
> rings.
> >
> > My M/Y 2000 engine has a crankcase vent that dumps directly to the
> atmosphere via a rubber hose on the port side.  The crankcase breather
> cover sits just in front of the timing belt sprocket on the top of the
> engine.  I've never had my breather cover off because I've never needed to
> get in there.  However, given that it vents to the atmosphere, I doubt
> there is any sort of PCV valve that might get stuck or clogged.  However, I
> suppose it's possible the vent port itself &/or the hose might be clogged.
> So, it might be worth a look underneath the breather cover just to verify
> that the plumbing is free and clear.
> >
> > Try these suggestions and let's see what happens.  Good Luck!
> >
> > Roger Pihlaja
> > S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> > 1978  Sanford, MI
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of
> Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 2:12 PM
> > To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
> > Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >
> > Patrick,
> >
> > I think that if you have a problem with "stuck" piston rings, you would
> know it. I would suspect that there would be a loud noise and the engine
> probably would not run at low speeds as it seized up.
> >
> > My guess is more a problem with the crankcase ventilation system.
> Usually there is a PCV style one-way valve that sucks oil fumes out of the
> crankcase, burning them by introducing into the air intake. Check the air
> filter which is usually part of the recirculation circuit as it can become
> saturated with oil.
> >
> > Is the engine consuming oil? Have you checked the oil level using the
> dipstick? The smoke and excess oil can be the result of worn (not stuck)
> piston rings or valves that are allowing the oil to pass into the
> combustion path.
> >
> > Mike
> > s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > Nissequogue River, NY
> > I?d rather be sailing :~)
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> PBR
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 2, 2024 1:52 PM
> > To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> > Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Honda BF9.9 Oil from carb
> >
> > Hello all.
> >
> > I have a Honda 9.9 2 cyl.  that has been mostly sitting for a few years.
> > It sat on the boat in Kitty Hawk (humid environment) for one winter
> untouched (2018).  Since then I have not used it on the water but always
> expecting that I might anytime soon I did not winterize but dutifully
> started it every couple of months throughout the winters and ran it a bit
> with the water hose.  Always started easy and ran good.  Some smoke at
> first but not enough to concern me.  This time as I was about to put the
> thing in to use I put a bucket (trash can ) around it and ran it again.
> > Started easy , runs good, again some smoking, enough to get me curious
> but not constant at all speeds.
> >
> > Looking under the cowling I see oil dripping from the carb intake (clean
> golden oil).  Still running fine.I am hoping there may be a *vent clog* or
> something rather than just frozen rings.  Any thoughts?  *Stuck valve?* (
> but runs pretty good)
> >
> > This 1999 motor has VERY VERY low miles and looks brand new so I hate to
> scrap it but given the date of manufacture the value is probably less than
> a marine repair will charge me to take a look.  Hoping for a miracle
> solution.  Twice I have removed mud dauber bee nests from under the cowling
> so maybe I can find something suspicous.
> >
> > The trash can I ran it in did have some residual oil clinging to the
> sides but I don't know how much might be normal.
> >
> > My plan next trip in a couple of weeks is to look for clogs and try
> running again maybe with a high dose of sea foam or something.  Not sure of
> any miracle sauce that might help stuck rings.
> >
> > Patrick
> >
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Thu Apr  4 16:47:11 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2024 16:47:11 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: Searching the Archives
Message-ID: <E1rsTzL-003bWm-16@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

As I mention in my last post, in order to support the web interface for the Rhodes 22 email list, the entire history of the emails sent to the list has been extracted from the Mailman archives and placed into a relational database.  This was primarily done to make sure that the user interface performed well, but it also has benefits for facilitating searches.

Previously, the only way to search the email list archives was to search the archive web pages.  On rhodes22.net, a search of the archives will instead search the database.  This allows searches to be more narrowly tailored.  For instance, you can choose to search just subject lines.

But there?s more?

As I also mentioned in my last post, most emails sent to the list have two sections of content: the new text written by the sender; and older content that was in the message being replied to.  The search page refers to the new content as ?Original Text?, and the older content as ?Quoted Text?.

A search of the archive web pages will look through and potential find hits in both Original Text and Quoted Text.  Often, the search word or phrase will be found over and over in the same segment of Quoted Text which reappears in many messages.  This can result in some pretty muddy water.

The process that extracts messages from the archives splits the original text from the quoted text and stores them in separate database tables.  This allows the search to optionally ignore the quoted text and just search the original text, which will probably produce a better result set.

The actual search engine is a black box provided by the Database Management System (DBMS).  If it doesn?t produce the expected results, there?s not much we can do about it.  But the limited testing that I?ve done indicates that it works pretty well.

If you?d like to check it out, you can find it at https://www.rhodes22.net/email-search.html

?Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From ruehbl at msn.com  Thu Apr  4 18:42:57 2024
From: ruehbl at msn.com (BARRY RUEHLEN)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2024 22:42:57 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: Searching the Archives
In-Reply-To: <E1rsTzL-003bWm-16@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rsTzL-003bWm-16@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <IA1PR19MB6498CAAAE068D3D7CBF30C37C13C2@IA1PR19MB6498.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Wow. Thanks Peter.(I think). I will be giving the new process a try soon. After almost two years of rebuild, we managed to get our first sail in. SHE FLOATS. Some questions remain and I look forward to searching the new system.
Barry Ruehlen
SV Perseverance '87


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2024 4:47:11 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: Searching the Archives

As I mention in my last post, in order to support the web interface for the Rhodes 22 email list, the entire history of the emails sent to the list has been extracted from the Mailman archives and placed into a relational database.  This was primarily done to make sure that the user interface performed well, but it also has benefits for facilitating searches.

Previously, the only way to search the email list archives was to search the archive web pages.  On rhodes22.net, a search of the archives will instead search the database.  This allows searches to be more narrowly tailored.  For instance, you can choose to search just subject lines.

But there?s more?

As I also mentioned in my last post, most emails sent to the list have two sections of content: the new text written by the sender; and older content that was in the message being replied to.  The search page refers to the new content as ?Original Text?, and the older content as ?Quoted Text?.

A search of the archive web pages will look through and potential find hits in both Original Text and Quoted Text.  Often, the search word or phrase will be found over and over in the same segment of Quoted Text which reappears in many messages.  This can result in some pretty muddy water.

The process that extracts messages from the archives splits the original text from the quoted text and stores them in separate database tables.  This allows the search to optionally ignore the quoted text and just search the original text, which will probably produce a better result set.

The actual search engine is a black box provided by the Database Management System (DBMS).  If it doesn?t produce the expected results, there?s not much we can do about it.  But the limited testing that I?ve done indicates that it works pretty well.

If you?d like to check it out, you can find it at https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rhodes22.net%2Femail-search.html&data=05%7C02%7C%7Cc276b209eff44e38381d08dc54e86950%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638478604392887448%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=fZ6ptn3%2F%2ByXlc%2B3DwCE%2FKUEQi%2F4n4prjgqeGCfIc55A%3D&reserved=0<https://www.rhodes22.net/email-search.html>

?Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Thu Apr  4 21:37:26 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2024 21:37:26 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: Searching the Archives
In-Reply-To: <E1rsTzL-003bWm-16@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rsTzL-003bWm-16@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT4U+uZtoc-ggH224b55ROLKAKOTOBDPSE=SGh4-p1uYiw@mail.gmail.com>

Peter:
The Rhodes22.net web page works beautifully for me. I have never really
been able to use the old system so this is a massive improvement. We are
very lucky to have someone with your skill and generosity of spirit to sort
this stuff out for us. Thanks so much!
Graham
Agile 1976
Graham Stewart
gstewart.gm at gmail.com


On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 4:47?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> As I mention in my last post, in order to support the web interface for
> the Rhodes 22 email list, the entire history of the emails sent to the list
> has been extracted from the Mailman archives and placed into a relational
> database.  This was primarily done to make sure that the user interface
> performed well, but it also has benefits for facilitating searches.
>
> Previously, the only way to search the email list archives was to search
> the archive web pages.  On rhodes22.net, a search of the archives will
> instead search the database.  This allows searches to be more narrowly
> tailored.  For instance, you can choose to search just subject lines.
>
> But there?s more?
>
> As I also mentioned in my last post, most emails sent to the list have two
> sections of content: the new text written by the sender; and older content
> that was in the message being replied to.  The search page refers to the
> new content as ?Original Text?, and the older content as ?Quoted Text?.
>
> A search of the archive web pages will look through and potential find
> hits in both Original Text and Quoted Text.  Often, the search word or
> phrase will be found over and over in the same segment of Quoted Text which
> reappears in many messages.  This can result in some pretty muddy water.
>
> The process that extracts messages from the archives splits the original
> text from the quoted text and stores them in separate database tables.
> This allows the search to optionally ignore the quoted text and just search
> the original text, which will probably produce a better result set.
>
> The actual search engine is a black box provided by the Database
> Management System (DBMS).  If it doesn?t produce the expected results,
> there?s not much we can do about it.  But the limited testing that I?ve
> done indicates that it works pretty well.
>
> If you?d like to check it out, you can find it at
> https://www.rhodes22.net/email-search.html
>
> ?Peter
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>

From forg3d at gmail.com  Fri Apr  5 07:34:16 2024
From: forg3d at gmail.com (Jeffrey Camiel)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2024 06:34:16 -0500
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: Searching the Archives
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT4U+uZtoc-ggH224b55ROLKAKOTOBDPSE=SGh4-p1uYiw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACdaeT4U+uZtoc-ggH224b55ROLKAKOTOBDPSE=SGh4-p1uYiw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F2A41E9D-8EE7-43CC-B3E3-90FA6C0B1E0B@gmail.com>

Awesome.  Played with it for a bit and got back good results fast. 

> On Apr 4, 2024, at 8:38?PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Peter:
> The Rhodes22.net web page works beautifully for me. I have never really
> been able to use the old system so this is a massive improvement. We are
> very lucky to have someone with your skill and generosity of spirit to sort
> this stuff out for us. Thanks so much!
> Graham
> Agile 1976
> Graham Stewart
> gstewart.gm at gmail.com
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Apr 4, 2024 at 4:47?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>> 
>> As I mention in my last post, in order to support the web interface for
>> the Rhodes 22 email list, the entire history of the emails sent to the list
>> has been extracted from the Mailman archives and placed into a relational
>> database.  This was primarily done to make sure that the user interface
>> performed well, but it also has benefits for facilitating searches.
>> 
>> Previously, the only way to search the email list archives was to search
>> the archive web pages.  On rhodes22.net, a search of the archives will
>> instead search the database.  This allows searches to be more narrowly
>> tailored.  For instance, you can choose to search just subject lines.
>> 
>> But there?s more?
>> 
>> As I also mentioned in my last post, most emails sent to the list have two
>> sections of content: the new text written by the sender; and older content
>> that was in the message being replied to.  The search page refers to the
>> new content as ?Original Text?, and the older content as ?Quoted Text?.
>> 
>> A search of the archive web pages will look through and potential find
>> hits in both Original Text and Quoted Text.  Often, the search word or
>> phrase will be found over and over in the same segment of Quoted Text which
>> reappears in many messages.  This can result in some pretty muddy water.
>> 
>> The process that extracts messages from the archives splits the original
>> text from the quoted text and stores them in separate database tables.
>> This allows the search to optionally ignore the quoted text and just search
>> the original text, which will probably produce a better result set.
>> 
>> The actual search engine is a black box provided by the Database
>> Management System (DBMS).  If it doesn?t produce the expected results,
>> there?s not much we can do about it.  But the limited testing that I?ve
>> done indicates that it works pretty well.
>> 
>> If you?d like to check it out, you can find it at
>> https://www.rhodes22.net/email-search.html
>> 
>> ?Peter
>> 
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Fri Apr  5 13:40:59 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2024 13:40:59 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?q?A_Web_Interface_for_=E2=80=98Da_List?=
	=?utf-8?b?4oCZ?=
In-Reply-To: <E1rrNQ3-00Aw0E-0C@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rrNQ3-00Aw0E-0C@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiX_+-DgnVg6A5JA5dZY7BVdjBO_837A5VBq7oTeoZtMgg@mail.gmail.com>

We have been out of cell/ internet range (Bahamas, land & Sea Park). Just
got coverage and what a nice surprise! Thanks for your work, it is very
cool. (Hope I didn?t crash anything, grin).
Chris Geankoplis
SV Xenos
SV Enosis

On Mon, Apr 1, 2024 at 3:34?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Back in 2021, I rewrote the website for rhodes22.org.  No-one asked me to
> do this, but the 20 year old website was showing its age, and I enjoyed the
> challenge.  There was little in the way of new technology involved, both
> the old and new websites were mostly static HTML web pages.  When I was
> done. Mike Weisner, the rhodes22.org webmaster, was gracious enough to
> install the new web pages, and little has changed since.
>
> Not being willing to let well enough alone though, I kept working.  I
> wrote web pages and programs that created a web interface for the Rhodes 22
> email list (a.k.a. ?da list?).  This work definitely did involve new
> technology.  Implementing these changes on rhodes22.org would have
> required adding support for several new programming languages, and a
> database management system (DBMS).
>
> Mike said he would look into doing this, but it never happened.  I don?t
> blame Mike for hesitating.  It would be a lot of work to set up initially,
> and then the more complicated environment would have to be maintained going
> forward.
>
> So, for the last three years, I?ve been using this new functionality in my
> test workspace, and sometimes I?d forget that I?m the only person using
> this web interface to read and send messages.  Then I got a new bee in my
> bonnet.
>
> I started a thread a few weeks ago regarding my concern about declining
> activity on the email list.  The thread didn?t get a lot of traction, but
> that?s not enough to deter me.  My hypothesis was that being only an email
> based discussion group may be limiting our appeal.  No one seemed to agree,
> but then the only people who saw my message were people comfortable using
> an email list discussion group.
>
> But then it occurred to me that the web interface I?d developed could be
> deployed anywhere, it didn?t need to be on rhodes22.org.
>
> I found that the domain ?rhodes22.net' was available, so I bought that  I
> then found a web hosting plan that had the technologies I needed, and
> installed the email list web interface there.
>
> My hope is that it will attract people who would not have participated in
> a community only available via email.  Failing that, perhaps some members
> will find the web interface to be a useful alternative.
>
> Of course, there?s always the possibility that the whole thing will crash
> and burn the first time two people try to use it at the same time.  We?ll
> see.
>
> Anyone who is a member of Rhodes 22 Email List can sign on to rhodes22.net
> using the same email address as a user id.
>
> Those interested can check out the new web interface at
> https://www.rhodes22.net
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
> << Sent From rhodes22.net >>
>

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Fri Apr  5 14:32:51 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2024 14:32:51 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?b?QSBXZWIgSW50ZXJmYWNlIGZvciDDouKCrMuc?=
	=?utf-8?b?RGEgTGlzdMOi4oKs4oSi?=
In-Reply-To: <E1rrNbs-00B2gw-0t@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rrNbs-00B2gw-0t@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiX=52hu5oj_NwuH3rw=2VE+fXWz3xVfG8ft6c8Snzt+RQ@mail.gmail.com>

Good point Reoben. I?m in too.
Chris Geankoplis
XENOS

On Mon, Apr 1, 2024 at 3:46?PM Reuben Mezrich <reuben.mezrich at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Peter
> This is excellent!
> I imagine there are costs related to hosting the website...can I
> contribute?
> --Reuben
>
> << Sent From rhodes22.net >>
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Apr  5 15:37:21 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2024 15:37:21 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A Web Interface for 'Da List'
Message-ID: <E1rspNJ-00BXQE-2B@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

The out of pocket cost to set up rhodes22.net was only a little over $100.  Mike W. will be reimbursing me from the rhodes22.org funds.  So, thanks for the support, but there are no worries on the money side of things.

--Peter

> On 2024-04-05, at 14:32:51 EDT, Chris Geankoplis wrote:
>
> Good point Reoben. I?m in too.
> Chris Geankoplis
> XENOS
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Apr  5 15:58:28 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2024 19:58:28 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] =?utf-8?q?A_Web_Interface_for_=E2=80=98Da_List?=
 =?utf-8?b?4oCZ?=
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiX_+-DgnVg6A5JA5dZY7BVdjBO_837A5VBq7oTeoZtMgg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1rrNQ3-00Aw0E-0C@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CADNTwiX_+-DgnVg6A5JA5dZY7BVdjBO_837A5VBq7oTeoZtMgg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288BA516094ED25472DA84B80032@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Peter,

I just tried to join and the system generated password does not work.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI



________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, April 5, 2024 1:40 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] A Web Interface for ?Da List?

We have been out of cell/ internet range (Bahamas, land & Sea Park). Just
got coverage and what a nice surprise! Thanks for your work, it is very
cool. (Hope I didn?t crash anything, grin).
Chris Geankoplis
SV Xenos
SV Enosis

On Mon, Apr 1, 2024 at 3:34?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Back in 2021, I rewrote the website for rhodes22.org.  No-one asked me to
> do this, but the 20 year old website was showing its age, and I enjoyed the
> challenge.  There was little in the way of new technology involved, both
> the old and new websites were mostly static HTML web pages.  When I was
> done. Mike Weisner, the rhodes22.org webmaster, was gracious enough to
> install the new web pages, and little has changed since.
>
> Not being willing to let well enough alone though, I kept working.  I
> wrote web pages and programs that created a web interface for the Rhodes 22
> email list (a.k.a. ?da list?).  This work definitely did involve new
> technology.  Implementing these changes on rhodes22.org would have
> required adding support for several new programming languages, and a
> database management system (DBMS).
>
> Mike said he would look into doing this, but it never happened.  I don?t
> blame Mike for hesitating.  It would be a lot of work to set up initially,
> and then the more complicated environment would have to be maintained going
> forward.
>
> So, for the last three years, I?ve been using this new functionality in my
> test workspace, and sometimes I?d forget that I?m the only person using
> this web interface to read and send messages.  Then I got a new bee in my
> bonnet.
>
> I started a thread a few weeks ago regarding my concern about declining
> activity on the email list.  The thread didn?t get a lot of traction, but
> that?s not enough to deter me.  My hypothesis was that being only an email
> based discussion group may be limiting our appeal.  No one seemed to agree,
> but then the only people who saw my message were people comfortable using
> an email list discussion group.
>
> But then it occurred to me that the web interface I?d developed could be
> deployed anywhere, it didn?t need to be on rhodes22.org.
>
> I found that the domain ?rhodes22.net' was available, so I bought that  I
> then found a web hosting plan that had the technologies I needed, and
> installed the email list web interface there.
>
> My hope is that it will attract people who would not have participated in
> a community only available via email.  Failing that, perhaps some members
> will find the web interface to be a useful alternative.
>
> Of course, there?s always the possibility that the whole thing will crash
> and burn the first time two people try to use it at the same time.  We?ll
> see.
>
> Anyone who is a member of Rhodes 22 Email List can sign on to rhodes22.net
> using the same email address as a user id.
>
> Those interested can check out the new web interface at
> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rhodes22.net%2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7C64347b4085a741fbdd2108dc55979869%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638479356814090718%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=aQCuQcGyoTrYDpR%2B3bUFETU7Fm7DYrTppQfCY9ubBDM%3D&reserved=0<https://www.rhodes22.net/>
>
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>
> << Sent From rhodes22.net >>
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Apr  5 16:32:40 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2024 16:32:40 -0400
Subject: A Web Interface for ‘Da List’
Message-ID: <E1rsqEq-00CCwb-1t@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>


Roger,

I'm looking into it.  Please don't attempt to sign in to the site again for the time being.

--Peter

> On 2024-04-05, at 15:58:28 EDT, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote:
>
> Peter,
> 
> I just tried to join and the system generated password does not work.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> 
> 
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Apr  5 20:55:41 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2024 20:55:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] A Web Interface for 'Da List'
Message-ID: <E1rsuLN-00Eqfu-1P@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Roger,

I've sent you a private email.  Please let me know if you're able to sign in or not.

--Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Apr  6 16:32:08 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2024 16:32:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: Member Profile
Message-ID: <E1rtChs-002Goy-0V@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

When messages taken from the Rhodes 22 email list archives are processed for storing in the database that supports the web interface, the program uses the embedded email address and display name to determine the identity of the sender.  Every individual thus identified becomes a ?Member?.

There are, at the moment, 983 members. The ?Discussion Group? area of rhodes22.net has a ?Members? tab that will display lists of members.  The ?All Members? sub-tab shows everyone from the beginning of time (2002), while the ?Active Members? sub-tab shows those members who have posted in the past 12 months.

Clicking on the name of a member will take you to their profile page. 

For most people this page will just show data collected by the message extraction process: first post date, last post date, number of posts, and lists of posts and attachments sent to the list by this member.

There is room for other information to be displayed, but this information would have to entered by the member themselves.  

If you look at your own member profile page, you will see buttons that allow you to enter data about yourself and your boat(s). There?s also a button that will let you upload a picture or ?avatar? that will be displayed when messages you have sent are viewed in the web interface.

When I was developing this avatar feature, I needed a way to test it.  So, I gave avatars to a few select individuals.  For example, if you take a look at a recent post by Chris Geankoplis, you can see his handsome face smiling back at you (https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?post=109169).

When you?re looking at a message, clicking on the sender?s avatar or name will also take you to their member profile page.

The easiest way to get to your own member profile page is to pull down the menu on the left under ?Hello:? (assuming that you?re logged in).

?Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From rodellner at mac.com  Sat Apr  6 16:40:23 2024
From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner)
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2024 14:40:23 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: Member Profile
In-Reply-To: <E1rtChs-002Goy-0V@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rtChs-002Goy-0V@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <31BD7C82-1A21-44E0-A175-AC813D308AA4@mac.com>

Peter

Does Rod Ellner show up?   What about Rummy?   I know that I?ve got even PAPER LISTS of people phone numbers etc that Rummy would
 Send.   Is this something new and we need to resubscribe ?  Thx


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 6, 2024, at 2:32?PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> ?When messages taken from the Rhodes 22 email list archives are processed for storing in the database that supports the web interface, the program uses the embedded email address and display name to determine the identity of the sender.  Every individual thus identified becomes a ?Member?.
> 
> There are, at the moment, 983 members. The ?Discussion Group? area of rhodes22.net has a ?Members? tab that will display lists of members.  The ?All Members? sub-tab shows everyone from the beginning of time (2002), while the ?Active Members? sub-tab shows those members who have posted in the past 12 months.
> 
> Clicking on the name of a member will take you to their profile page.
> 
> For most people this page will just show data collected by the message extraction process: first post date, last post date, number of posts, and lists of posts and attachments sent to the list by this member.
> 
> There is room for other information to be displayed, but this information would have to entered by the member themselves.  
> 
> If you look at your own member profile page, you will see buttons that allow you to enter data about yourself and your boat(s). There?s also a button that will let you upload a picture or ?avatar? that will be displayed when messages you have sent are viewed in the web interface.
> 
> When I was developing this avatar feature, I needed a way to test it.  So, I gave avatars to a few select individuals.  For example, if you take a look at a recent post by Chris Geankoplis, you can see his handsome face smiling back at you (https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?post=109169).
> 
> When you?re looking at a message, clicking on the sender?s avatar or name will also take you to their member profile page.
> 
> The easiest way to get to your own member profile page is to pull down the menu on the left under ?Hello:? (assuming that you?re logged in).
> 
> ?Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Apr  6 17:02:14 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2024 17:02:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: Member Profile
Message-ID: <E1rtDB0-002Wjo-39@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Rod,

Yes, you're in there.  So is Rummy.  So is everyone else who ever posted to the list.  There's no need to do anything new or different.

Actually, Rummy is in there three times.

Sometimes the extract process is able to figure out that a member has changed an email address or display name.  But sometimes it ends up creating a new member in these situations.

Rummy has 5 posts under 'R22RumRunner', 277 posts under 'John Tonjes', and 4,946 under 'R22RumRunner at aol.com'.  

You can see his member profile page, including an avatar, here: https://www.rhodes22.net/email-members.html?member=82

--Peter

> On 2024-04-06, at 16:40:23 EDT, Rod Ellner wrote:
>
> Peter
> 
> Does Rod Ellner show up?   What about Rummy?   I know that I?ve got even PAPER 
> LISTS of people phone numbers etc that Rummy would 
>  Send.   Is this something new and we need to resubscribe ?  Thx
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Apr  6 17:26:56 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2024 17:26:56 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Paper Copies of 'Da List'
Message-ID: <E1rtDYu-002nhw-0T@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I'm pretty sure that the term 'da list' originally referred to the paper lists that Rod mentions.

If Rod (or anyone else) has these old paper lists, and if they contain information about boats (e.g. hull numbers) I've love to have copies.  I'd use the data to fill in some boat history in the database.

--Peter    

> On 2024-04-06, at 16:40:23 EDT, Rod Ellner wrote:
>
> Peter
> 
> Does Rod Ellner show up?   What about Rummy?   I know that I?ve got even PAPER 
> LISTS of people phone numbers etc that Rummy would 
>  Send.   Is this something new and we need to resubscribe ?  Thx
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From mtroy at atlanticbb.net  Sat Apr  6 18:07:09 2024
From: mtroy at atlanticbb.net (Mary Lou Troy)
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2024 18:07:09 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Paper Copies of 'Da List'
In-Reply-To: <E1rtDYu-002nhw-0T@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rtDYu-002nhw-0T@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <f062d8db-7b36-4b83-9b27-bd323b91496b@atlanticbb.net>

Peter,
Sent you a private email with a couple of copies of Da List.

Mary Lou
Rock Hall, MD
ex Rhodes 22? (Fretless)
now Rosborough RF-246?? (Tara)

On 4/6/2024 5:26 PM, Peter Nyberg wrote:
> I'm pretty sure that the term 'da list' originally referred to the paper lists that Rod mentions.
>
> If Rod (or anyone else) has these old paper lists, and if they contain information about boats (e.g. hull numbers) I've love to have copies.  I'd use the data to fill in some boat history in the database.
>
> --Peter
>
>> On 2024-04-06, at 16:40:23 EDT, Rod Ellner wrote:
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> Does Rod Ellner show up?   What about Rummy?   I know that I?ve got even PAPER
>> LISTS of people phone numbers etc that Rummy would
>>   Send.   Is this something new and we need to resubscribe ?  Thx
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Apr  6 18:37:13 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2024 18:37:13 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Paper Copies of 'Da List'
Message-ID: <E1rtEev-003oIT-1B@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Thanks Mary, got them.

I?ll let everyone know how the history rebuilding effort goes.

-Peter

> On 2024-04-06, at 18:07:09 EDT, Mary Lou Troy wrote:
>
> Peter,
> Sent you a private email with a couple of copies of Da List.
> 
> Mary Lou
> Rock Hall, MD
> ex Rhodes 22&nbsp; (Fretless)
> now Rosborough RF-246&nbsp;&nbsp; (Tara)
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Sat Apr  6 21:00:26 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2024 21:00:26 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: Member Profile
In-Reply-To: <E1rtDB0-002Wjo-39@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rtDB0-002Wjo-39@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiVULpR0Kn_LtsaWeWiJF9xssZUsHwM1denM-fNbSUB9VQ@mail.gmail.com>

This is really amazing what you have done. And yes what a handsome salty
sea dog that Chris Geankoplis is!  Grin.

Chris Geankoplis
XENOS

On Sat, Apr 6, 2024 at 5:02?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Rod,
>
> Yes, you're in there.  So is Rummy.  So is everyone else who ever posted
> to the list.  There's no need to do anything new or different.
>
> Actually, Rummy is in there three times.
>
> Sometimes the extract process is able to figure out that a member has
> changed an email address or display name.  But sometimes it ends up
> creating a new member in these situations.
>
> Rummy has 5 posts under 'R22RumRunner', 277 posts under 'John Tonjes', and
> 4,946 under 'R22RumRunner at aol.com'.
>
> You can see his member profile page, including an avatar, here:
> https://www.rhodes22.net/email-members.html?member=82
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2024-04-06, at 16:40:23 EDT, Rod Ellner wrote:
> >
> > Peter
> >
> > Does Rod Ellner show up?   What about Rummy?   I know that I?ve got even
> PAPER
> > LISTS of people phone numbers etc that Rummy would
> >  Send.   Is this something new and we need to resubscribe ?  Thx
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>

From rodellner at mac.com  Sun Apr  7 00:58:39 2024
From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner)
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2024 22:58:39 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: Member Profile
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiVULpR0Kn_LtsaWeWiJF9xssZUsHwM1denM-fNbSUB9VQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADNTwiVULpR0Kn_LtsaWeWiJF9xssZUsHwM1denM-fNbSUB9VQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EA9CBB78-8121-4258-B5F7-ED64C449B2AF@mac.com>

Thanks peter.    Great to see Rummy again     ?. And you too Chris G.  Hi to Alice
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 6, 2024, at 7:00?PM, Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?This is really amazing what you have done. And yes what a handsome salty
> sea dog that Chris Geankoplis is!  Grin.
> 
> Chris Geankoplis
> XENOS
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 6, 2024 at 5:02?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Rod,
>> 
>> Yes, you're in there.  So is Rummy.  So is everyone else who ever posted
>> to the list.  There's no need to do anything new or different.
>> 
>> Actually, Rummy is in there three times.
>> 
>> Sometimes the extract process is able to figure out that a member has
>> changed an email address or display name.  But sometimes it ends up
>> creating a new member in these situations.
>> 
>> Rummy has 5 posts under 'R22RumRunner', 277 posts under 'John Tonjes', and
>> 4,946 under 'R22RumRunner at aol.com'.
>> 
>> You can see his member profile page, including an avatar, here:
>> https://www.rhodes22.net/email-members.html?member=82
>> 
>> --Peter
>> 
>>>> On 2024-04-06, at 16:40:23 EDT, Rod Ellner wrote:
>>> 
>>> Peter
>>> 
>>> Does Rod Ellner show up?   What about Rummy?   I know that I?ve got even
>> PAPER
>>> LISTS of people phone numbers etc that Rummy would
>>> Send.   Is this something new and we need to resubscribe ?  Thx
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Mon Apr  8 17:29:10 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2024 17:29:10 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] We're Back
Message-ID: <E1rtwYA-005lOd-0E@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

You may have missed it, but due to a technical issue, rhodes22.org has been unavailable for about the last 36 hours.  

This outage had nothing to do with me, either the cause or the resolution. I just happen to know that it's over.

Your regular programming will now resume...

--Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From jamcando126 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  8 20:23:47 2024
From: jamcando126 at yahoo.com (John McLaughlin)
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2024 00:23:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] We're Back
In-Reply-To: <E1rtwYA-005lOd-0E@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rtwYA-005lOd-0E@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <1171682205.4170967.1712622227098@mail.yahoo.com>

Thanks for the heads up.


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Monday, April 8, 2024, 5:29 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

You may have missed it, but due to a technical issue, rhodes22.org has been unavailable for about the last 36 hours.? 

This outage had nothing to do with me, either the cause or the resolution. I just happen to know that it's over.

Your regular programming will now resume...

--Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]




From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Tue Apr  9 09:59:43 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2024 09:59:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] We're Back
In-Reply-To: <1171682205.4170967.1712622227098@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <E1rtwYA-005lOd-0E@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <1171682205.4170967.1712622227098@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5EEF9DF8-2D2B-408C-93ED-B58D37D31941@stottarchitecture.com>

Thanks  for lookin? after us Peter. 
Ric 
Dadventure

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Apr 8, 2024, at 8:23 PM, John McLaughlin via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the heads up.
> 
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
> 
> 
> On Monday, April 8, 2024, 5:29 PM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> You may have missed it, but due to a technical issue, rhodes22.org has been unavailable for about the last 36 hours.  
> 
> This outage had nothing to do with me, either the cause or the resolution. I just happen to know that it's over.
> 
> Your regular programming will now resume...
> 
> --Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
> 
> 


From rca02536 at gmail.com  Tue Apr  9 11:21:35 2024
From: rca02536 at gmail.com (Bob Allen)
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2024 11:21:35 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Parts
Message-ID: <BAB1334C-5922-4E50-B374-46FD79E62ECE@gmail.com>

hi,  S/V air force.  Haven?t posted in a while, but need some help with parts.  Getting close to another summer sailing the Vineyard Sound.  Last fall while derigging the boat, found the "gooseneck' (for lack of a technical term) connecting the boom to the mast block bent, and thought it would be best to replace it.  With Stan having health issues, is anyone doing parts? if so, how do i contact them.  Also, tried the web web page, but it didn?t seem to take my jpeg attachments

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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Tue Apr  9 16:30:42 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2024 16:30:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Parts
Message-ID: <E1ruI78-00F9m3-0E@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Bob,

I'm pretty sure that 'gooseneck' is the correct technical term.

A few years ago, I also found my gooseneck parts all bent out of shape.  I managed to find parts to rebuild it stronger than before, and made a YouTube video about the process: https://youtu.be/z_pg6PVEZqI

I got the key parts from the Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company (https://www.dwyermast.com).  They are the original manufacturer of most Rhodes 22 standing rigging.  In the video I walk through how to find the parts on their website.  Unfortunately, since then the company was sold, and the website has changed, and it no longer has a break-down of gooseneck parts.  There have been reports that Dwyer people have been very helpful on the phone.

I also got a few bolts from McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com).

A breakdown of the parts follows:

Dwyer      1  DH-334   Heavy Duty Universal
Dwyer      2  DH-3143 Heavy Duty U-Bracket
Dwyer      2  ?            Pins 
McMaster  1  98164A306  SS Button Hd Bolt - 3/8 x 1 1/2"
McMaster  1  98164A317  SS Button Hd Bolt - 3/8 x 2 1/2"
Anywhere 1  3/8" nylock nut

Best of luck, and please let us know how things work out.

BTW, thanks for updating your profile on rhodes22.net, including boat information and an avatar!

--Peter

> On 2024-04-09, at 11:21:35 EDT, Bob Allen wrote:
>
> hi,  S/V air force.  Haven?t posted in a while, but need some help with parts.  
> Getting close to another summer sailing the Vineyard Sound.  Last fall while 
> derigging the boat, found the "gooseneck' (for lack of a technical term) 
> connecting the boom to the mast block bent, and thought it would be best to 
> replace it.  With Stan having health issues, is anyone doing parts? if so, how 
> do i contact them.  Also, tried the web web page, but it didn?t seem to take my 
> jpeg attachments 
> 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240409/d2f26cb4/attachment.jpeg" 
> target="_blank">IMG_1200.jpeg</a> 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240409/d2f26cb4/attachment-0001.jpeg" 
> target="_blank">IMG_1198.jpeg</a> 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240409/d2f26cb4/attachment-0002.jpeg" 
> target="_blank">IMG_1199.jpeg</a> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From djbaines05 at gmail.com  Tue Apr  9 17:02:20 2024
From: djbaines05 at gmail.com (David Baines)
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2024 17:02:20 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Parts
In-Reply-To: <E1ruI78-00F9m3-0E@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1ruI78-00F9m3-0E@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CAOpsRG2MRryia6mdU0qRY-3jW20qP8_Ndop7LqyJJDfeRh++xA@mail.gmail.com>

Peter,

Looks like you?re the contact to get me removed from da list. Enjoy
monitoring it, but I relinquished my Rhodes 5 years ago and I immediately
delete them nowadays.

Thanks,
David Baines

On Tue, Apr 9, 2024 at 4:30?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> I'm pretty sure that 'gooseneck' is the correct technical term.
>
> A few years ago, I also found my gooseneck parts all bent out of shape.  I
> managed to find parts to rebuild it stronger than before, and made a
> YouTube video about the process: https://youtu.be/z_pg6PVEZqI
>
> I got the key parts from the Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company (
> https://www.dwyermast.com).  They are the original manufacturer of most
> Rhodes 22 standing rigging.  In the video I walk through how to find the
> parts on their website.  Unfortunately, since then the company was sold,
> and the website has changed, and it no longer has a break-down of gooseneck
> parts.  There have been reports that Dwyer people have been very helpful on
> the phone.
>
> I also got a few bolts from McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com).
>
> A breakdown of the parts follows:
>
> Dwyer      1  DH-334   Heavy Duty Universal
> Dwyer      2  DH-3143 Heavy Duty U-Bracket
> Dwyer      2  ?            Pins
> McMaster  1  98164A306  SS Button Hd Bolt - 3/8 x 1 1/2"
> McMaster  1  98164A317  SS Button Hd Bolt - 3/8 x 2 1/2"
> Anywhere 1  3/8" nylock nut
>
> Best of luck, and please let us know how things work out.
>
> BTW, thanks for updating your profile on rhodes22.net, including boat
> information and an avatar!
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2024-04-09, at 11:21:35 EDT, Bob Allen wrote:
> >
> > hi,  S/V air force.  Haven?t posted in a while, but need some help with
> parts.
> > Getting close to another summer sailing the Vineyard Sound.  Last fall
> while
> > derigging the boat, found the "gooseneck' (for lack of a technical term)
> > connecting the boom to the mast block bent, and thought it would be best
> to
> > replace it.  With Stan having health issues, is anyone doing parts? if
> so, how
> > do i contact them.  Also, tried the web web page, but it didn?t seem to
> take my
> > jpeg attachments
> >
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240409/d2f26cb4/attachment.jpeg"
>
> > target="_blank">IMG_1200.jpeg</a>
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240409/d2f26cb4/attachment-0001.jpeg"
>
> > target="_blank">IMG_1198.jpeg</a>
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240409/d2f26cb4/attachment-0002.jpeg"
>
> > target="_blank">IMG_1199.jpeg</a>
> >
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Tue Apr  9 17:14:19 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2024 17:14:19 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Unsubscribe Request
Message-ID: <E1ruInL-00Fuj8-2u@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

David,

Not me, I just write websites.  Mike Weisner is the email list administrator.  He might unsubscribe you if he sees this.  Or, you could go to the bottom of this page: http://www.rhodes22.org/mailman/listinfo/rhodes22-list

--Peter

> On 2024-04-09, at 17:02:20 EDT, David Baines wrote:
>
> Peter,
> 
> Looks like you?re the contact to get me removed from da list. Enjoy monitoring 
> it, but I relinquished my Rhodes 5 years ago and I immediately delete them 
> nowadays. 
> 
> Thanks,
> David Baines
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Tue Apr  9 17:16:14 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2024 17:16:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Parts
In-Reply-To: <CAOpsRG2MRryia6mdU0qRY-3jW20qP8_Ndop7LqyJJDfeRh++xA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1ruI78-00F9m3-0E@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CAOpsRG2MRryia6mdU0qRY-3jW20qP8_Ndop7LqyJJDfeRh++xA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004701da8ac3$28642b00$792c8100$@ebsmed.com>

I removed you from da list.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of David Baines
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2024 5:02 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Parts

Peter,

Looks like you?re the contact to get me removed from da list. Enjoy monitoring it, but I relinquished my Rhodes 5 years ago and I immediately delete them nowadays.

Thanks,
David Baines

On Tue, Apr 9, 2024 at 4:30?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> I'm pretty sure that 'gooseneck' is the correct technical term.
>
> A few years ago, I also found my gooseneck parts all bent out of 
> shape.  I managed to find parts to rebuild it stronger than before, 
> and made a YouTube video about the process: 
> https://youtu.be/z_pg6PVEZqI
>
> I got the key parts from the Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company ( 
> https://www.dwyermast.com).  They are the original manufacturer of 
> most Rhodes 22 standing rigging.  In the video I walk through how to 
> find the parts on their website.  Unfortunately, since then the 
> company was sold, and the website has changed, and it no longer has a 
> break-down of gooseneck parts.  There have been reports that Dwyer 
> people have been very helpful on the phone.
>
> I also got a few bolts from McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com).
>
> A breakdown of the parts follows:
>
> Dwyer      1  DH-334   Heavy Duty Universal
> Dwyer      2  DH-3143 Heavy Duty U-Bracket
> Dwyer      2  ?            Pins
> McMaster  1  98164A306  SS Button Hd Bolt - 3/8 x 1 1/2"
> McMaster  1  98164A317  SS Button Hd Bolt - 3/8 x 2 1/2"
> Anywhere 1  3/8" nylock nut
>
> Best of luck, and please let us know how things work out.
>
> BTW, thanks for updating your profile on rhodes22.net, including boat 
> information and an avatar!
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2024-04-09, at 11:21:35 EDT, Bob Allen wrote:
> >
> > hi,  S/V air force.  Haven?t posted in a while, but need some help 
> > with
> parts.
> > Getting close to another summer sailing the Vineyard Sound.  Last 
> > fall
> while
> > derigging the boat, found the "gooseneck' (for lack of a technical 
> > term) connecting the boom to the mast block bent, and thought it 
> > would be best
> to
> > replace it.  With Stan having health issues, is anyone doing parts? 
> > if
> so, how
> > do i contact them.  Also, tried the web web page, but it didn?t seem 
> > to
> take my
> > jpeg attachments
> >
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240409/d2f26cb4/attachment.jpeg"
>
> > target="_blank">IMG_1200.jpeg</a>
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240409/d2f26cb4/attachment-0001.jpeg"
>
> > target="_blank">IMG_1198.jpeg</a>
> >
> > <a
> > href="
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240409/d2f26cb4/attachment-0002.jpeg"
>
> > target="_blank">IMG_1199.jpeg</a>
> >
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>


From brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com  Tue Apr  9 20:13:26 2024
From: brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com (Brian Ferguson)
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2024 20:13:26 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes Continental backstay question
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT7P9N5=OMP5RZfgD0Fp0VTRG99De3OdQYOjJRR7L-98wg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPD+wLHcC0UkCOh5XN9_NsoR4Mfhte0fC--e33fHK0ssuBKRsA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEhtY2+PFw4BOJL_XWpRmGQ9TzyU=bZ=-GG=y-S9NOfoA6LdPg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT7P9N5=OMP5RZfgD0Fp0VTRG99De3OdQYOjJRR7L-98wg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPD+wLEvH0bb1QCZdj=qS9RbN=UgUwuwu_bTF+uK8gr-E=HP0Q@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the information on traveller arrangements. I guess my plan going
forward will also need to be tied to my decision on backstay which appeared
in a separate post I think. I think I will follow the lead of the other
owners and tinker around until I find something that works best for me and
my crew. I do promise to never think about a barney post set up though.
Brian

On Fri, Mar 8, 2024 at 10:04?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Brian:
> I also replaced the traveller with my own arrangement except that I
> attached the traveller to the stern rail rather than the back stays. It
> seems to work pretty well and is easily removed with a couple of spring
> pins. The stern rail had to be strengthened by bolting the joints as
> otherwise the stress would pull the joints apart.
>
>
> Graham Stewart
> Agile 76
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 8, 2024 at 7:43?PM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> > Hi Brian:
> >
> > The 1978 Rhodes I bought in July of last year had no traveler system so,
> > after looking at a number of R22s, I made my own. I got the round Bar
> > Traveler car from RigRite (
> >
> >
> https://www.rigrite.com/Travellers/NF_Travellers/Round%20Bar%20Travellers.php
> > ).
> > I bought the other fittings from Sailrite. I had to drill into the 6 ft
> x 1
> > inch tube to fasten the fittings. I was fortunate in that the rear stays
> > already had a space to connect the ends of the traveler bar. I do need to
> > refit the line so that there is sufficient line to allow the car to move
> > port and starboard. It's not nearly as sophisticated as the one Stan and
> GB
> > designed but it will suffice for now.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Tom Hyatt
> > S/V Eliza Jane 1978
> > Baltimore, MD
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Mar 8, 2024 at 6:39?PM Brian Ferguson <
> > brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Per my earlier post, my ?76 Continental has been an adventure. I?m not
> > > blaming the previous owners, but? there?s some pretty non-standard
> things
> > > going on. Currently #1 on my list, there was a Harken traveler mounted
> > to a
> > > few pieces of angle-aluminum and some aluminum bar bolted right to the
> > > fiberglass in the back of the cockpit. Yes, there was some backing, but
> > not
> > > sure if the cut-up pieces of former street signs were up to the job.
> > There
> > > are two backstay attachment points on the port and starboard stern
> > corners,
> > > well placed and reinforced. To my subject line, I am at the crossroads
> of
> > > needing backstays and figuring out the mainsheet plan. I?m sure I?m
> going
> > > to hear about contacting Edenton about the new rig, but I wanted hear
> > from
> > > the list before making my decision. Literally a blank slate for the
> > > mainsheet. Having also owned a Catalina 18, ComPac 23, and Seaward 24,
> > I?ve
> > > had multiple variations for my mainsheet and backstays.
> > >
> > > Oh and yeah, the standing rigging is of questionable vintage so I am
> > > replacing that before sailing this summer.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Brian
> > >
> > > NewIn76
> > >
> > > Sumter, SC
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: eliza jane traveler.JPG
> > Type: image/jpeg
> > Size: 3613914 bytes
> > Desc: not available
> > URL: <
> >
> http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240308/0ada1552/attachment.jpe
> > >
> >
>

From brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com  Tue Apr  9 20:25:10 2024
From: brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com (Brian Ferguson)
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2024 20:25:10 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes Continental owners?
In-Reply-To: <CADNTwiW_X=on3EY=uvo=mdcQO4ebsr4BSjmom++sdcp_f0cagw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPD+wLH9m17es8xqpEj1HLz0VkcX=TRaTnAZQFTKDX_ZWXQzjw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT7-zsqA-_rvFOSxHn1c-pTVVqQbp+_zEom7HY=cZZ39EQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiW_X=on3EY=uvo=mdcQO4ebsr4BSjmom++sdcp_f0cagw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPD+wLGEpnj816-BKMacFZV4Yy0OTd4bhWc7j8Mnhj=JhBZ-kw@mail.gmail.com>

As usual, the list never fails to disappoint. My '76 which I affectionately
call "New In 76" is headturner for her lines at a distance, but the
wrinkles show up once you get closer. (Not unlike her equally aged owner).
I am happy though that South Carolina doesn't tax me anymore on my vintage
'76.
I really appreciate the forgiving nature of the Rhodes 22 and the resources
from this list. I always enjoy seeing a post of someone else's boat so I
can see how someone else made theirs unique and to give a wishlist for the
next season.

Brian
S/V NewIn76

On Sat, Mar 9, 2024 at 8:17?PM Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Having bought my 1976 Continental from Stan new at the boat show, it was
> the perfect boat.  We had it for 20 years and went everywhere on the
> Chesapeake and spent several months in the Bahamas. There may have been
> some build issues but we just upgraded it. So I can say that the ?76-?78
> vintage was more than a presumptuous and amusing wine.   Enjoy your classic
> Rhodes, guys.  Still have a 87-2014 Rhodes here in Kansas and the previous
> ?83 was adopted by a classic guitar and bouzouki maker on a small island in
> Greece. So my lifelong live  affair with the Rhodes continues.
> Chris Geankoplis
> S/V Xenos
>
> On Fri, Mar 8, 2024 at 9:57?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Brian:
> >
> > I too have a 1976 Rhodes Continental. I have had it since about 1995. I
> > have put her through an extensive rebuild that spanned about 7 years and
> > was completed about 4 years ago. The rebuild involved stripping out the
> > interior including the structural floor and bulkhead, re-coring the
> > foredeck, replacing the windows with single pieces of plexiglass,
> replacing
> > chainplates, painting the deck and cockpit, and dozens of other things. I
> > took lots of pictures along the way that I would be happy to share if
> they
> > benefit you.
> > I am a complete amateur and made many mistakes along the way, most of
> which
> > resulted in doing things the hard way rather than harming the boat. Just
> > about everything can be fixed.
> > There is no doubt that boats of this vintage were built to a lesser
> > standard than those built by Stan in his factory. The contractors who
> built
> > these boats took a lot of shortcuts. Still, it is a beautiful boat that I
> > take great pride in.
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile 76
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Mar 8, 2024 at 6:32?PM Brian Ferguson <
> > brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Peter,
> > >
> > > I?m going to try to bump up the post-count for 2024 by asking if
> there?s
> > > any other early Rhodes Continental owners out there. I have a 1976 that
> > > Stan already told me he did not build. Having taken it down to a bare
> > hull
> > > interior, (except for the forward and under-cockpit foam areas) I am
> > > thoroughly convinced of that fact.  The early days definitely had some
> > > quality control issues.
> > >
> > > So any other owners out there with early boats and interesting
> ?quality?
> > > discoveries? I have some questions for you.
> > >
> > > Brian
> > >
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Apr 10 17:07:38 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2024 21:07:38 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes Continental owners?
In-Reply-To: <CAPD+wLGEpnj816-BKMacFZV4Yy0OTd4bhWc7j8Mnhj=JhBZ-kw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPD+wLH9m17es8xqpEj1HLz0VkcX=TRaTnAZQFTKDX_ZWXQzjw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT7-zsqA-_rvFOSxHn1c-pTVVqQbp+_zEom7HY=cZZ39EQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADNTwiW_X=on3EY=uvo=mdcQO4ebsr4BSjmom++sdcp_f0cagw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPD+wLGEpnj816-BKMacFZV4Yy0OTd4bhWc7j8Mnhj=JhBZ-kw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288187E5F319132C3E28CE880062@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Brian,

Our boat is a 1978 Rhodes Continental 22.  We've owned it since 1987.  If you check the archives, you'll find lots of post re my boat.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Brian Ferguson <brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2024 8:25 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes Continental owners?

As usual, the list never fails to disappoint. My '76 which I affectionately
call "New In 76" is headturner for her lines at a distance, but the
wrinkles show up once you get closer. (Not unlike her equally aged owner).
I am happy though that South Carolina doesn't tax me anymore on my vintage
'76.
I really appreciate the forgiving nature of the Rhodes 22 and the resources
from this list. I always enjoy seeing a post of someone else's boat so I
can see how someone else made theirs unique and to give a wishlist for the
next season.

Brian
S/V NewIn76

On Sat, Mar 9, 2024 at 8:17?PM Chris Geankoplis <chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Having bought my 1976 Continental from Stan new at the boat show, it was
> the perfect boat.  We had it for 20 years and went everywhere on the
> Chesapeake and spent several months in the Bahamas. There may have been
> some build issues but we just upgraded it. So I can say that the ?76-?78
> vintage was more than a presumptuous and amusing wine.   Enjoy your classic
> Rhodes, guys.  Still have a 87-2014 Rhodes here in Kansas and the previous
> ?83 was adopted by a classic guitar and bouzouki maker on a small island in
> Greece. So my lifelong live  affair with the Rhodes continues.
> Chris Geankoplis
> S/V Xenos
>
> On Fri, Mar 8, 2024 at 9:57?PM Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Brian:
> >
> > I too have a 1976 Rhodes Continental. I have had it since about 1995. I
> > have put her through an extensive rebuild that spanned about 7 years and
> > was completed about 4 years ago. The rebuild involved stripping out the
> > interior including the structural floor and bulkhead, re-coring the
> > foredeck, replacing the windows with single pieces of plexiglass,
> replacing
> > chainplates, painting the deck and cockpit, and dozens of other things. I
> > took lots of pictures along the way that I would be happy to share if
> they
> > benefit you.
> > I am a complete amateur and made many mistakes along the way, most of
> which
> > resulted in doing things the hard way rather than harming the boat. Just
> > about everything can be fixed.
> > There is no doubt that boats of this vintage were built to a lesser
> > standard than those built by Stan in his factory. The contractors who
> built
> > these boats took a lot of shortcuts. Still, it is a beautiful boat that I
> > take great pride in.
> >
> > Graham Stewart
> > Agile 76
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Mar 8, 2024 at 6:32?PM Brian Ferguson <
> > brian.a.ferguson76 at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Peter,
> > >
> > > I?m going to try to bump up the post-count for 2024 by asking if
> there?s
> > > any other early Rhodes Continental owners out there. I have a 1976 that
> > > Stan already told me he did not build. Having taken it down to a bare
> > hull
> > > interior, (except for the forward and under-cockpit foam areas) I am
> > > thoroughly convinced of that fact.  The early days definitely had some
> > > quality control issues.
> > >
> > > So any other owners out there with early boats and interesting
> ?quality?
> > > discoveries? I have some questions for you.
> > >
> > > Brian
> > >
> >
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Thu Apr 11 15:26:25 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2024 15:26:25 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Rhodes Continental owners?
Message-ID: <E1rv041-001Bri-2b@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

If you wanted to look through Roger's posts (or any other member's posts), it's easy to do this using the web interface on rhodes22.net.

Every member's profile page displays a list of all posts sent by that member.  You can access a member's profiles page by clicking on their name in the 'Members' page, or by clicking on their name or avatar when viewing one of their posts.  (Note: you have to be signed in to view the Members page.)

In Roger's case, there are over 1,300 posts to look through.

--Peter

> On 2024-04-10, at 17:07:38 EDT, ROGER PIHLAJA wrote:
>
> Hi Brian,
> 
> Our boat is a 1978 Rhodes Continental 22.  We've owned it since 1987.  If you 
> check the archives, you'll find lots of post re my boat. 
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From thyatt at mica.edu  Thu Apr 11 18:17:30 2024
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2024 18:17:30 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Repositioning the mainsheet traveler
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2+4BYpjNTL=ei+fPH4+h3DE_8v3nGGXG1PROdzr5Y3pVg@mail.gmail.com>

A question to the group from a novice Rhodes owner.

I have a 1978 Rhodes that did not come with any sort of traveler or
mainsheet system. I built my own traveler using guidance from a number of
smart people on this list. I mounted it on the backstays in the way most
all Rhodes 22s that I have seen have it mounted - a little above chest
level in the slot along the stays where there is a second bit of wire rope
clamped in.  In principle, it all works fine. However, to get to the
outboard controls is almost impossible. I have added a tiller extension to
the handle but still, that is awkward. The traveler as it is positioned
does not allow me to get close to the stern either for starting the motor
or managing the motor tiller.

Today I toyed with the idea of doing away with the bar traveler altogether
and installing a short rail along the stern in the way a Catalina 22 is
configured. That would cut down on the length of the traveler and diminish
its usefulness but would do away with the awkward bar that keeps me from
having easy access to the stern and motor controls. Of course, I would lose
most of the ability to raise the rudder tiller but I think I could live
with that.

BUT THEN ... I got the idea to just lower the traveler bar to just above
the stern deck and use stay clamps to hold it in place along the stays. In
this manner, it is totally out of the way but still would function in the
way it would if it were higher up. I will need to lengthen my mainsheet but
that's about the only alteration it seems that I need to make.

I am open to any information, suggestions, experiences, etc that any of you
can offer. I am about to put my boat in next week and can certainly live
with the configuration as I have seen it, but would love to improve it so
that I can more easily get to and control my outboard and make better use
of what seems like wasted cockpit space.

Thanks in advance.

Tom Hyatt
S/V Eliza Jane 78
Baltimore, MD

.

From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Thu Apr 11 22:11:43 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2024 22:11:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Repositioning the mainsheet traveler
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2+4BYpjNTL=ei+fPH4+h3DE_8v3nGGXG1PROdzr5Y3pVg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2+4BYpjNTL=ei+fPH4+h3DE_8v3nGGXG1PROdzr5Y3pVg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiVGWx_Op2D8caCX8jEeq-rtJcJB8_1z7wcaLjczU5PPnw@mail.gmail.com>

Your solution sounds intriguing. Let us know if you go down that route
(lowering the bar).

Chris Geankoplis
Xenos

On Thu, Apr 11, 2024 at 6:17?PM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> A question to the group from a novice Rhodes owner.
>
> I have a 1978 Rhodes that did not come with any sort of traveler or
> mainsheet system. I built my own traveler using guidance from a number of
> smart people on this list. I mounted it on the backstays in the way most
> all Rhodes 22s that I have seen have it mounted - a little above chest
> level in the slot along the stays where there is a second bit of wire rope
> clamped in.  In principle, it all works fine. However, to get to the
> outboard controls is almost impossible. I have added a tiller extension to
> the handle but still, that is awkward. The traveler as it is positioned
> does not allow me to get close to the stern either for starting the motor
> or managing the motor tiller.
>
> Today I toyed with the idea of doing away with the bar traveler altogether
> and installing a short rail along the stern in the way a Catalina 22 is
> configured. That would cut down on the length of the traveler and diminish
> its usefulness but would do away with the awkward bar that keeps me from
> having easy access to the stern and motor controls. Of course, I would lose
> most of the ability to raise the rudder tiller but I think I could live
> with that.
>
> BUT THEN ... I got the idea to just lower the traveler bar to just above
> the stern deck and use stay clamps to hold it in place along the stays. In
> this manner, it is totally out of the way but still would function in the
> way it would if it were higher up. I will need to lengthen my mainsheet but
> that's about the only alteration it seems that I need to make.
>
> I am open to any information, suggestions, experiences, etc that any of you
> can offer. I am about to put my boat in next week and can certainly live
> with the configuration as I have seen it, but would love to improve it so
> that I can more easily get to and control my outboard and make better use
> of what seems like wasted cockpit space.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane 78
> Baltimore, MD
>
> .
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Apr 12 09:03:20 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 09:03:20 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Repositioning the mainsheet traveler
Message-ID: <E1rvGYq-0076Fx-2k@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Tom,

The only concern that comes to mind is whether the aft pulpit will interfere excessively with mainsail sheet when sailing on a broad reach or downwind. 

Mainsail sheeting on the Rhodes 22 seems to be an area where all solutions have significant downsides.

--Peter

> On 2024-04-11, at 18:17:30 EDT, Tom Hyatt wrote:
>
> A question to the group from a novice Rhodes owner.
> 
> I have a 1978 Rhodes that did not come with any sort of traveler or mainsheet 
> system. I built my own traveler using guidance from a number of smart people on 
> this list. I mounted it on the backstays in the way most all Rhodes 22s that I 
> have seen have it mounted - a little above chest level in the slot along the 
> stays where there is a second bit of wire rope clamped in.  In principle, it all 
> works fine. However, to get to the outboard controls is almost impossible. I 
> have added a tiller extension to the handle but still, that is awkward. The 
> traveler as it is positioned does not allow me to get close to the stern either 
> for starting the motor or managing the motor tiller. 
> 
> Today I toyed with the idea of doing away with the bar traveler altogether and 
> installing a short rail along the stern in the way a Catalina 22 is configured. 
> That would cut down on the length of the traveler and diminish its usefulness 
> but would do away with the awkward bar that keeps me from having easy access to 
> the stern and motor controls. Of course, I would lose most of the ability to 
> raise the rudder tiller but I think I could live with that. 
> 
> BUT THEN ... I got the idea to just lower the traveler bar to just above the 
> stern deck and use stay clamps to hold it in place along the stays. In this 
> manner, it is totally out of the way but still would function in the way it 
> would if it were higher up. I will need to lengthen my mainsheet but that's 
> about the only alteration it seems that I need to make. 
> 
> I am open to any information, suggestions, experiences, etc that any of you can 
> offer. I am about to put my boat in next week and can certainly live with the 
> configuration as I have seen it, but would love to improve it so that I can more 
> easily get to and control my outboard and make better use of what seems like 
> wasted cockpit space. 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane 78
> Baltimore, MD
> 
> .
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From thyatt at mica.edu  Fri Apr 12 10:28:18 2024
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 10:28:18 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Repositioning the mainsheet traveler
In-Reply-To: <E1rvGYq-0076Fx-2k@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rvGYq-0076Fx-2k@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2Ksfb81dLpCLEhJw7e751q_wV5CYVX0DdD5Fm=nQ5WP0g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Peter:

Thanks for the reply. I have thought of that possibility. I guess I won't
really know until I get her out under sail and see how it goes in that
configuration.
 And by water, Peter, thanks for all of the great work on the web site. As
a retired IT guy, I know the difficulties and challenges of database
conversions, user interfaces and user support. You have clearly given a lot
of thought to getting it right.

Tom

On Fri, Apr 12, 2024 at 9:03?AM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Tom,
>
> The only concern that comes to mind is whether the aft pulpit will
> interfere excessively with mainsail sheet when sailing on a broad reach or
> downwind.
>
> Mainsail sheeting on the Rhodes 22 seems to be an area where all solutions
> have significant downsides.
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2024-04-11, at 18:17:30 EDT, Tom Hyatt wrote:
> >
> > A question to the group from a novice Rhodes owner.
> >
> > I have a 1978 Rhodes that did not come with any sort of traveler or
> mainsheet
> > system. I built my own traveler using guidance from a number of smart
> people on
> > this list. I mounted it on the backstays in the way most all Rhodes 22s
> that I
> > have seen have it mounted - a little above chest level in the slot along
> the
> > stays where there is a second bit of wire rope clamped in.  In
> principle, it all
> > works fine. However, to get to the outboard controls is almost
> impossible. I
> > have added a tiller extension to the handle but still, that is awkward.
> The
> > traveler as it is positioned does not allow me to get close to the stern
> either
> > for starting the motor or managing the motor tiller.
> >
> > Today I toyed with the idea of doing away with the bar traveler
> altogether and
> > installing a short rail along the stern in the way a Catalina 22 is
> configured.
> > That would cut down on the length of the traveler and diminish its
> usefulness
> > but would do away with the awkward bar that keeps me from having easy
> access to
> > the stern and motor controls. Of course, I would lose most of the
> ability to
> > raise the rudder tiller but I think I could live with that.
> >
> > BUT THEN ... I got the idea to just lower the traveler bar to just above
> the
> > stern deck and use stay clamps to hold it in place along the stays. In
> this
> > manner, it is totally out of the way but still would function in the way
> it
> > would if it were higher up. I will need to lengthen my mainsheet but
> that's
> > about the only alteration it seems that I need to make.
> >
> > I am open to any information, suggestions, experiences, etc that any of
> you can
> > offer. I am about to put my boat in next week and can certainly live
> with the
> > configuration as I have seen it, but would love to improve it so that I
> can more
> > easily get to and control my outboard and make better use of what seems
> like
> > wasted cockpit space.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Tom Hyatt
> > S/V Eliza Jane 78
> > Baltimore, MD
> >
> > .
> >
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Fri Apr 12 11:40:23 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 11:40:23 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Repositioning the mainsheet traveler
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2Ksfb81dLpCLEhJw7e751q_wV5CYVX0DdD5Fm=nQ5WP0g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1rvGYq-0076Fx-2k@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CAEhtY2Ksfb81dLpCLEhJw7e751q_wV5CYVX0DdD5Fm=nQ5WP0g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT7=T_x1U-r3V60Y5Akvj0O3+GpJa0vCVYSFLXZtqLojnQ@mail.gmail.com>

I attached the traveler bar to the stern pulpit. In that position, it
blends in with the stern rail and doesn't create another barrier to
reaching the motor. I have posted information on this arrangement in the
past with pictures. Of course, you want to make sure that the stern rail is
installed and held together adequately for the stresses involved.


Graham Stewart
Agile 76


On Fri, Apr 12, 2024 at 10:28?AM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Hi Peter:
>
> Thanks for the reply. I have thought of that possibility. I guess I won't
> really know until I get her out under sail and see how it goes in that
> configuration.
>  And by water, Peter, thanks for all of the great work on the web site. As
> a retired IT guy, I know the difficulties and challenges of database
> conversions, user interfaces and user support. You have clearly given a lot
> of thought to getting it right.
>
> Tom
>
> On Fri, Apr 12, 2024 at 9:03?AM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Tom,
> >
> > The only concern that comes to mind is whether the aft pulpit will
> > interfere excessively with mainsail sheet when sailing on a broad reach
> or
> > downwind.
> >
> > Mainsail sheeting on the Rhodes 22 seems to be an area where all
> solutions
> > have significant downsides.
> >
> > --Peter
> >
> > > On 2024-04-11, at 18:17:30 EDT, Tom Hyatt wrote:
> > >
> > > A question to the group from a novice Rhodes owner.
> > >
> > > I have a 1978 Rhodes that did not come with any sort of traveler or
> > mainsheet
> > > system. I built my own traveler using guidance from a number of smart
> > people on
> > > this list. I mounted it on the backstays in the way most all Rhodes 22s
> > that I
> > > have seen have it mounted - a little above chest level in the slot
> along
> > the
> > > stays where there is a second bit of wire rope clamped in.  In
> > principle, it all
> > > works fine. However, to get to the outboard controls is almost
> > impossible. I
> > > have added a tiller extension to the handle but still, that is awkward.
> > The
> > > traveler as it is positioned does not allow me to get close to the
> stern
> > either
> > > for starting the motor or managing the motor tiller.
> > >
> > > Today I toyed with the idea of doing away with the bar traveler
> > altogether and
> > > installing a short rail along the stern in the way a Catalina 22 is
> > configured.
> > > That would cut down on the length of the traveler and diminish its
> > usefulness
> > > but would do away with the awkward bar that keeps me from having easy
> > access to
> > > the stern and motor controls. Of course, I would lose most of the
> > ability to
> > > raise the rudder tiller but I think I could live with that.
> > >
> > > BUT THEN ... I got the idea to just lower the traveler bar to just
> above
> > the
> > > stern deck and use stay clamps to hold it in place along the stays. In
> > this
> > > manner, it is totally out of the way but still would function in the
> way
> > it
> > > would if it were higher up. I will need to lengthen my mainsheet but
> > that's
> > > about the only alteration it seems that I need to make.
> > >
> > > I am open to any information, suggestions, experiences, etc that any of
> > you can
> > > offer. I am about to put my boat in next week and can certainly live
> > with the
> > > configuration as I have seen it, but would love to improve it so that I
> > can more
> > > easily get to and control my outboard and make better use of what seems
> > like
> > > wasted cockpit space.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance.
> > >
> > > Tom Hyatt
> > > S/V Eliza Jane 78
> > > Baltimore, MD
> > >
> > > .
> > >
> >
> >
> > [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Fri Apr 12 12:33:59 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 16:33:59 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Repositioning the mainsheet traveler
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT7=T_x1U-r3V60Y5Akvj0O3+GpJa0vCVYSFLXZtqLojnQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1rvGYq-0076Fx-2k@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CAEhtY2Ksfb81dLpCLEhJw7e751q_wV5CYVX0DdD5Fm=nQ5WP0g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACdaeT7=T_x1U-r3V60Y5Akvj0O3+GpJa0vCVYSFLXZtqLojnQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428899B3DA85E4A98D3FA89C80042@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Tom,

You might approach the mainsheet traveler/outboard motor access issue from another direction.  S/V Dynamic Equilibrium has remote, cockpit gunnel mounted engine controls.  This mostly obviates outboard engine access issue and allows the mainsheet traveler to remain mounted on the backstays.  There really are advantages to having the traveler mounted up high on the backstays - shock absorber in case on an accidental gibe, the traveler bar is nearly the width of the cockpit for maximum traveler effectiveness, and the mainsheet block is at a convenient height.  The latest version of GBI's traveler has the traveler car control line as a continuous loop.  This means you can pull the traveler car to leeward or windward without leaving your perch on the windward rail.

Cockpit mounted remote engine controls are especially great when it comes to a short handed docking situation.  You get to stand there with the engine controls in your left hand and the tiller in your right hand.  You are standing, so you have good visibility all around.  It's just so civilized, you'll wonder how you ever got along without them!

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI


________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2024 11:40 AM
To: Tom Hyatt <thyatt at mica.edu>; The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Repositioning the mainsheet traveler

I attached the traveler bar to the stern pulpit. In that position, it
blends in with the stern rail and doesn't create another barrier to
reaching the motor. I have posted information on this arrangement in the
past with pictures. Of course, you want to make sure that the stern rail is
installed and held together adequately for the stresses involved.


Graham Stewart
Agile 76


On Fri, Apr 12, 2024 at 10:28?AM Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> Hi Peter:
>
> Thanks for the reply. I have thought of that possibility. I guess I won't
> really know until I get her out under sail and see how it goes in that
> configuration.
>  And by water, Peter, thanks for all of the great work on the web site. As
> a retired IT guy, I know the difficulties and challenges of database
> conversions, user interfaces and user support. You have clearly given a lot
> of thought to getting it right.
>
> Tom
>
> On Fri, Apr 12, 2024 at 9:03?AM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Tom,
> >
> > The only concern that comes to mind is whether the aft pulpit will
> > interfere excessively with mainsail sheet when sailing on a broad reach
> or
> > downwind.
> >
> > Mainsail sheeting on the Rhodes 22 seems to be an area where all
> solutions
> > have significant downsides.
> >
> > --Peter
> >
> > > On 2024-04-11, at 18:17:30 EDT, Tom Hyatt wrote:
> > >
> > > A question to the group from a novice Rhodes owner.
> > >
> > > I have a 1978 Rhodes that did not come with any sort of traveler or
> > mainsheet
> > > system. I built my own traveler using guidance from a number of smart
> > people on
> > > this list. I mounted it on the backstays in the way most all Rhodes 22s
> > that I
> > > have seen have it mounted - a little above chest level in the slot
> along
> > the
> > > stays where there is a second bit of wire rope clamped in.  In
> > principle, it all
> > > works fine. However, to get to the outboard controls is almost
> > impossible. I
> > > have added a tiller extension to the handle but still, that is awkward.
> > The
> > > traveler as it is positioned does not allow me to get close to the
> stern
> > either
> > > for starting the motor or managing the motor tiller.
> > >
> > > Today I toyed with the idea of doing away with the bar traveler
> > altogether and
> > > installing a short rail along the stern in the way a Catalina 22 is
> > configured.
> > > That would cut down on the length of the traveler and diminish its
> > usefulness
> > > but would do away with the awkward bar that keeps me from having easy
> > access to
> > > the stern and motor controls. Of course, I would lose most of the
> > ability to
> > > raise the rudder tiller but I think I could live with that.
> > >
> > > BUT THEN ... I got the idea to just lower the traveler bar to just
> above
> > the
> > > stern deck and use stay clamps to hold it in place along the stays. In
> > this
> > > manner, it is totally out of the way but still would function in the
> way
> > it
> > > would if it were higher up. I will need to lengthen my mainsheet but
> > that's
> > > about the only alteration it seems that I need to make.
> > >
> > > I am open to any information, suggestions, experiences, etc that any of
> > you can
> > > offer. I am about to put my boat in next week and can certainly live
> > with the
> > > configuration as I have seen it, but would love to improve it so that I
> > can more
> > > easily get to and control my outboard and make better use of what seems
> > like
> > > wasted cockpit space.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance.
> > >
> > > Tom Hyatt
> > > S/V Eliza Jane 78
> > > Baltimore, MD
> > >
> > > .
> > >
> >
> >
> > [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >
>

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Apr 12 12:34:26 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 12:34:26 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Repositioning the mainsheet traveler
Message-ID: <E1rvJr8-009j0U-1I@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Naturally, I was using the rhodes22.net web interface to read Graham's post.  He mentioned having posted pictures of his traveler arrangement, and I wanted to see if I could find those.  So, I clicked on Graham's name to go to his profile page, then clicked on the tab that will display  a list of all of his attachments, and quickly scrolled through the thumbnail images.  When I found what I was looking for, I clicked on a link to open the associated post, and voila:

https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?post=104513

--Peter

> On 2024-04-12, at 11:40:23 EDT, Graham Stewart wrote:
>
> I attached the traveler bar to the stern pulpit. In that position, it blends in 
> with the stern rail and doesn't create another barrier to reaching the motor. I 
> have posted information on this arrangement in the past with pictures. Of 
> course, you want to make sure that the stern rail is installed and held together 
> adequately for the stresses involved. 
> 
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile 76
> 
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Fri Apr 12 13:50:22 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 13:50:22 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New search feature link bug?
In-Reply-To: <E1rvJr8-009j0U-1I@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rvJr8-009j0U-1I@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <001f01da8d01$e4c720f0$ae5562d0$@ebsmed.com>

Peter,

I love the new web interface on Rhodes22.net.

The link that you sent with the email below points to Rhodes22.net as:
https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?post=104513

The original MailMan list stored the web page at Rhodes22.org as:
http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2021-March/087618.html

The first time that I click on the Rhodes22.net link, the web browser displays:
https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html
seemingly throwing away the "post" attribute.
The same is true if the link is pasted into the browser.

If I repeat clicking on the link, the browser displays the desired page the second time.
This activity is seen on both Google Chrome and Mozilla Firefox.

Hmmm....

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2024 12:34 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Repositioning the mainsheet traveler

Naturally, I was using the rhodes22.net web interface to read Graham's post.  He mentioned having posted pictures of his traveler arrangement, and I wanted to see if I could find those.  So, I clicked on Graham's name to go to his profile page, then clicked on the tab that will display  a list of all of his attachments, and quickly scrolled through the thumbnail images.  When I found what I was looking for, I clicked on a link to open the associated post, and voila:

https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?post=104513

--Peter



From talmorin at hotmail.com  Fri Apr 12 16:40:18 2024
From: talmorin at hotmail.com (Thomas s)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 20:40:18 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New search feature link bug?
In-Reply-To: <001f01da8d01$e4c720f0$ae5562d0$@ebsmed.com>
References: <E1rvJr8-009j0U-1I@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <001f01da8d01$e4c720f0$ae5562d0$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <LV8P221MB139764E20F349C0AE890104AC1042@LV8P221MB1397.NAMP221.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Mike,

https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html is also the page you get if you are not logged in.
I wonder if it has something to do with a delay in getting you logged into the webpage the 1st time you are accessing it via a new session, assuming you have told the browser to remember your username and password.

Tom
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2024 12:50 PM
To: 'The Rhodes 22 Email List' <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New search feature link bug?

Peter,

I love the new web interface on Rhodes22.net.

The link that you sent with the email below points to Rhodes22.net as:
https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?post=104513

The original MailMan list stored the web page at Rhodes22.org as:
http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2021-March/087618.html

The first time that I click on the Rhodes22.net link, the web browser displays:
https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html
seemingly throwing away the "post" attribute.
The same is true if the link is pasted into the browser.

If I repeat clicking on the link, the browser displays the desired page the second time.
This activity is seen on both Google Chrome and Mozilla Firefox.

Hmmm....

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
Sent: Friday, April 12, 2024 12:34 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Repositioning the mainsheet traveler

Naturally, I was using the rhodes22.net web interface to read Graham's post.  He mentioned having posted pictures of his traveler arrangement, and I wanted to see if I could find those.  So, I clicked on Graham's name to go to his profile page, then clicked on the tab that will display  a list of all of his attachments, and quickly scrolled through the thumbnail images.  When I found what I was looking for, I clicked on a link to open the associated post, and voila:

https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?post=104513

--Peter



From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Apr 12 16:52:44 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 16:52:44 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New search feature link bug?
Message-ID: <E1rvNt6-00Cnfp-2A@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Mike,

Hmmm indeed.

I've found that I can create similar behavior in both Safari and Firefox, but it is very puzzling.

There's a file of PHP code associated with the URL 'email-archives.html'.  If that code receives no additional parameters, it will create a web page that displays the list of post subjects for the current month.  If it receives a 'post=' parameter, it will create a page that displays that single post. That's all controlled by code I wrote.

What I've found is that if I quit my browser application, then click on the link for post 104513 in my email client, the browser app will open and display the list of all posts for the month, essentially ignoring the 'post=' parameter.  If I then click on the link in my email client a second time, a second tab is opened in the browser app, and the new tab will display just the individual post as it should.

I'd call this a browser bug, except both Safari and Firefox behave exactly the same way.

Personally, I never quit my browser app, so I never would have discovered this.

I'm not sure what can be done about this...

--Peter

> On 2024-04-12, at 13:50:22 EDT, Michael D. Weisner wrote:
>
> Peter,
> 
> I love the new web interface on Rhodes22.net.
> 
> The link that you sent with the email below points to Rhodes22.net as: <a 
> href="https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?post=104513">https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?post=104513</a> 
> 
> The original MailMan list stored the web page at Rhodes22.org as: <a 
> href="http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2021-March/087618.html">http://www.rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/2021-March/087618.html</a> 
> 
> The first time that I click on the Rhodes22.net link, the web browser displays: 
> <a 
> href="https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html">https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html</a> 
> seemingly throwing away the "post" attribute.
> The same is true if the link is pasted into the browser.
> 
> If I repeat clicking on the link, the browser displays the desired page the 
> second time. 
> This activity is seen on both Google Chrome and Mozilla Firefox.
> 
> Hmmm....
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Apr 12 16:57:59 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 16:57:59 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New search feature link bug?
Message-ID: <E1rvNyB-00CpbY-1E@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I think Tom is right, it has to do with being logged in.  

Thanks Tom.

--Peter

> On 2024-04-12, at 16:40:18 EDT, Thomas s wrote:
>
> Mike,
> 
> <a 
> href="https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html">https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html</a> 
> is also the page you get if you are not logged in. 
> I wonder if it has something to do with a delay in getting you logged into the 
> webpage the 1st time you are accessing it via a new session, assuming you have 
> told the browser to remember your username and password. 
> 
> Tom
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sat Apr 13 17:05:24 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2024 17:05:24 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] New search feature link bug?
Message-ID: <E1rvkYu-007XmP-0W@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Actually, it had to do with a lack of session data.  The code just didn't expect a request for a specific post to come out of the blue, rather than coming from a click on a link within the web site.  

It should be fixed now.  Hopefully, I didn't break anything else...

Here's the link that started it all: https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?post=104513

--Peter

> On 2024-04-12, at 16:57:59 EDT, Peter Nyberg wrote:
>
> I think Tom is right, it has to do with being logged in.
> 
> Thanks Tom.
> 
> --Peter
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From thyatt at mica.edu  Tue Apr 16 15:38:30 2024
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 15:38:30 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2L6qcVcE-mDytR-0bZ_TQ42PCEwEf-SsLDLirhuNMX5nQ@mail.gmail.com>

I put my 1978 Rhodes Continental in the water today after working on her
for much of the fall and winter. Everything went really well except for one
thing. Once in the water, when I uncleated the line that holds the
centerboard up, I expected that the board would drop into place through the
keel. It didn't.

So I am seeking help in how to troubleshoot this.

Since the flexible pipe and fitting that extend down through the hull that
the line feeds through are above the waterline (yes?), couldn't I just take
off the clamp that secures the flexible tube and then push something (like
an aluminum rod) down alongside the line to try to push and dislodge the
centerboard?

I hadn't thought that this would be a problem but I didn't have a chance to
test it with my boat on the trailer. The centerboard was pulled up into
the keel and sat on one of the rollers on the trailer so there was no way
to test whether it would drop as it should once in the water.

Any help that you can give would be most appreciated.

Tom Hyatt
S/V Eliza Jane 1978
Baltimore

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Tue Apr 16 16:06:20 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 16:06:20 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2L6qcVcE-mDytR-0bZ_TQ42PCEwEf-SsLDLirhuNMX5nQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2L6qcVcE-mDytR-0bZ_TQ42PCEwEf-SsLDLirhuNMX5nQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004801da9039$8def5960$a9ce0c20$@ebsmed.com>

Tom,

You might want to review a few of the previous discussions on this topic.

Peter's handy dandy search tool at Rhodes22.net found these quickly:
https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?thread=13482

https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?thread=4858

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)


-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 3:39 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop

I put my 1978 Rhodes Continental in the water today after working on her for much of the fall and winter. Everything went really well except for one thing. Once in the water, when I uncleated the line that holds the centerboard up, I expected that the board would drop into place through the keel. It didn't.

So I am seeking help in how to troubleshoot this.

Since the flexible pipe and fitting that extend down through the hull that the line feeds through are above the waterline (yes?), couldn't I just take off the clamp that secures the flexible tube and then push something (like an aluminum rod) down alongside the line to try to push and dislodge the centerboard?

I hadn't thought that this would be a problem but I didn't have a chance to test it with my boat on the trailer. The centerboard was pulled up into the keel and sat on one of the rollers on the trailer so there was no way to test whether it would drop as it should once in the water.

Any help that you can give would be most appreciated.

Tom Hyatt
S/V Eliza Jane 1978
Baltimore


From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Tue Apr 16 16:16:02 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 16:16:02 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop
In-Reply-To: <CAEhtY2L6qcVcE-mDytR-0bZ_TQ42PCEwEf-SsLDLirhuNMX5nQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEhtY2L6qcVcE-mDytR-0bZ_TQ42PCEwEf-SsLDLirhuNMX5nQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <17EB8BE1-1693-45CA-8FAC-FFF0D069C8AF@stottarchitecture.com>

HI tom 
I have a Continental also - 
Since my boat is moored in the shallows, when the tide gets extra low once in awhile, the keel sits on the bottom and sometimes gets a small stone wedged between the CB Trunk and the CenterBoard.
I have often wondered if the rod thru the retrieving line would work, but always ended up going overboard with mask and  a screw driver to scrape the offending stone out. 
It is possible to grab the aft most edge of the CB and give it a tug - but be careful, it can drop quickly. 
Once lose, make sure it can be raised and lowered again without issues. 
Good Luck 
Ric 
SV Dadventure 
HBNY 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Apr 16, 2024, at 3:38 PM, Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> I put my 1978 Rhodes Continental in the water today after working on her
> for much of the fall and winter. Everything went really well except for one
> thing. Once in the water, when I uncleated the line that holds the
> centerboard up, I expected that the board would drop into place through the
> keel. It didn't.
> 
> So I am seeking help in how to troubleshoot this.
> 
> Since the flexible pipe and fitting that extend down through the hull that
> the line feeds through are above the waterline (yes?), couldn't I just take
> off the clamp that secures the flexible tube and then push something (like
> an aluminum rod) down alongside the line to try to push and dislodge the
> centerboard?
> 
> I hadn't thought that this would be a problem but I didn't have a chance to
> test it with my boat on the trailer. The centerboard was pulled up into
> the keel and sat on one of the rollers on the trailer so there was no way
> to test whether it would drop as it should once in the water.
> 
> Any help that you can give would be most appreciated.
> 
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane 1978
> Baltimore


From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Tue Apr 16 16:30:29 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 16:30:29 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop
In-Reply-To: <17EB8BE1-1693-45CA-8FAC-FFF0D069C8AF@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <CAEhtY2L6qcVcE-mDytR-0bZ_TQ42PCEwEf-SsLDLirhuNMX5nQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <17EB8BE1-1693-45CA-8FAC-FFF0D069C8AF@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <005601da903c$ecdc50b0$c694f210$@ebsmed.com>

Be very careful grabbing the centerboard or anything below the waterline
without heavy gloves. Marine life can be very sharp and result in nasty
bacterial infections (voice of experience).

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I'd rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Ric
Stott
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 4:16 PM
To: Tom Hyatt <thyatt at mica.edu>; The Rhodes 22 Email List
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop

HI tom 
I have a Continental also - 
Since my boat is moored in the shallows, when the tide gets extra low once
in awhile, the keel sits on the bottom and sometimes gets a small stone
wedged between the CB Trunk and the CenterBoard.
I have often wondered if the rod thru the retrieving line would work, but
always ended up going overboard with mask and  a screw driver to scrape the
offending stone out. 
It is possible to grab the aft most edge of the CB and give it a tug - but
be careful, it can drop quickly. 
Once lose, make sure it can be raised and lowered again without issues. 
Good Luck 
Ric 
SV Dadventure 
HBNY 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Apr 16, 2024, at 3:38 PM, Tom Hyatt via Rhodes22-list
<rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> I put my 1978 Rhodes Continental in the water today after working on her
> for much of the fall and winter. Everything went really well except for
one
> thing. Once in the water, when I uncleated the line that holds the
> centerboard up, I expected that the board would drop into place through
the
> keel. It didn't.
> 
> So I am seeking help in how to troubleshoot this.
> 
> Since the flexible pipe and fitting that extend down through the hull that
> the line feeds through are above the waterline (yes?), couldn't I just
take
> off the clamp that secures the flexible tube and then push something (like
> an aluminum rod) down alongside the line to try to push and dislodge the
> centerboard?
> 
> I hadn't thought that this would be a problem but I didn't have a chance
to
> test it with my boat on the trailer. The centerboard was pulled up into
> the keel and sat on one of the rollers on the trailer so there was no way
> to test whether it would drop as it should once in the water.
> 
> Any help that you can give would be most appreciated.
> 
> Tom Hyatt
> S/V Eliza Jane 1978
> Baltimore


From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 18 11:55:47 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 15:55:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wasps
References: <1257968113.672432.1713455747307.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1257968113.672432.1713455747307@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi All,? ? My boat has come out of the storage barn and so begins my 2nd season as a Rhodes owner.??? ?I was having a pretty bad issue last year with mud daubers in my lazarette.? I thought they were getting in through the hatch, so I purchased several kinds of weather stripping over the winter with an eye to seal up the hatch before they can set up shop.? When I went to take a look yesterday I realized that there's a huge area under the cockpit seats that's wide open into the lazarette.? (Apparently I never looked last year, possibly because I didn't like to get stung).? ?While I work on blocking off that entrance to my boat, I'm wondering if there are any other hidden ways into the boat that I should be aware of?? Has anyone else had this issue?? How did you solve it?
Thanks,
Peter? ?

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 18 12:01:01 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 16:01:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Brackets under cockpit seats
References: <1633558993.673157.1713456061941.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1633558993.673157.1713456061941@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi All,? ?I have these little brackets under the port cockpit seats toward the bow (see photo).? Are these stock?Anyone know what they're for?
Thanks,? ? Peter
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Apr 18 12:13:08 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 16:13:08 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Brackets under cockpit seats
In-Reply-To: <1633558993.673157.1713456061941@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1633558993.673157.1713456061941@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428861461EE530A4760D6201800E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,
Those brackets are for stowing the companionway hatch cover when you are underway.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 18, 2024, at 12:01?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> ?Hi All,   I have these little brackets under the port cockpit seats toward the bow (see photo).  Are these stock?Anyone know what they're for?
> Thanks,    Peter
> -------------- next part --------------
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From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 18 12:21:13 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 12:21:13 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Brackets under cockpit seats
Message-ID: <E1rxUVd-00Ayqw-0I@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Ahh.  Thank you Roger.  I'll have to give that a try once I get into the lake.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From blue66corvette at hotmail.com  Thu Apr 18 12:21:30 2024
From: blue66corvette at hotmail.com (Charles Nieman)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 16:21:30 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wasps
In-Reply-To: <1257968113.672432.1713455747307@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1257968113.672432.1713455747307@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <SA3PR12MB79989DF8F247F2C519523BFBD90E2@SA3PR12MB7998.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Mud Dobbers won?t sting you, but they are a nuisance. True wasps on the other hand can sting. My best advice is the spray with wasp killer each time you leave the boat as a preventative measure. That?s what I do

Fair winds

Sent from my iPhone

Charles Nieman


> On Apr 18, 2024, at 10:55 AM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi All,    My boat has come out of the storage barn and so begins my 2nd season as a Rhodes owner.     I was having a pretty bad issue last year with mud daubers in my lazarette.  I thought they were getting in through the hatch, so I purchased several kinds of weather stripping over the winter with an eye to seal up the hatch before they can set up shop.  When I went to take a look yesterday I realized that there's a huge area under the cockpit seats that's wide open into the lazarette.  (Apparently I never looked last year, possibly because I didn't like to get stung).   While I work on blocking off that entrance to my boat, I'm wondering if there are any other hidden ways into the boat that I should be aware of?  Has anyone else had this issue?  How did you solve it?
> Thanks,
> Peter   

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Apr 18 12:21:50 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 16:21:50 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wasps
In-Reply-To: <1257968113.672432.1713455747307@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1257968113.672432.1713455747307.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1257968113.672432.1713455747307@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288A64E847C5725E890C2BF800E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,

You will find there are similar openings port and starboard into the cabin under the benches at the forward end of the cockpit.  Depending on your boat?s model year, you may also have insect access via the vent port above the head and the anchor rode port at the bow.  I close those ports off with solid plugs during winter storage.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 18, 2024, at 11:55?AM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi All,    My boat has come out of the storage barn and so begins my 2nd season as a Rhodes owner.     I was having a pretty bad issue last year with mud daubers in my lazarette.  I thought they were getting in through the hatch, so I purchased several kinds of weather stripping over the winter with an eye to seal up the hatch before they can set up shop.  When I went to take a look yesterday I realized that there's a huge area under the cockpit seats that's wide open into the lazarette.  (Apparently I never looked last year, possibly because I didn't like to get stung).   While I work on blocking off that entrance to my boat, I'm wondering if there are any other hidden ways into the boat that I should be aware of?  Has anyone else had this issue?  How did you solve it?
> Thanks,
> Peter   

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 18 12:37:26 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 12:37:26 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop
Message-ID: <E1rxUlK-00BGhp-0R@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I also have a centerboard that will not drop.  I tried diving and pulling last year, but it will only deploy a short way then gets stuck.  It's very annoying as I kept asking the previous owner if the centerboard was working properly (I bought boat on a trailer) because I didn't want to mess with the centerboard cap.  He assured me it was good.  Saturday I start opening it up.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From ejor2 at aol.com  Thu Apr 18 12:47:23 2024
From: ejor2 at aol.com (Eric Jorgensen)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 12:47:23 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wasps
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB4288A64E847C5725E890C2BF800E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MN2PR10MB4288A64E847C5725E890C2BF800E2@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <ACF8E1D1-BD01-46DC-B96C-7930352398C3@aol.com>

Hi all,

Don?t post much, but read a lot. An old Rummy trick is Hot Shot No-Pest strips. I hang one in cabin and one in laz, reduces wasps/mud daubers and other pests. Works better than anything else I?ve tried

Eric J


> On Apr 18, 2024, at 12:21?PM, ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi Peter,
> 
> You will find there are similar openings port and starboard into the cabin under the benches at the forward end of the cockpit.  Depending on your boat?s model year, you may also have insect access via the vent port above the head and the anchor rode port at the bow.  I close those ports off with solid plugs during winter storage.
> 
> Roger Pihlaja
> S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
> 1978  Sanford, MI
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 18, 2024, at 11:55?AM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> ?Hi All,    My boat has come out of the storage barn and so begins my 2nd season as a Rhodes owner.     I was having a pretty bad issue last year with mud daubers in my lazarette.  I thought they were getting in through the hatch, so I purchased several kinds of weather stripping over the winter with an eye to seal up the hatch before they can set up shop.  When I went to take a look yesterday I realized that there's a huge area under the cockpit seats that's wide open into the lazarette.  (Apparently I never looked last year, possibly because I didn't like to get stung).   While I work on blocking off that entrance to my boat, I'm wondering if there are any other hidden ways into the boat that I should be aware of?  Has anyone else had this issue?  How did you solve it?
>> Thanks,
>> Peter   


From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Thu Apr 18 12:54:23 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 12:54:23 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wasps
In-Reply-To: <1257968113.672432.1713455747307@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1257968113.672432.1713455747307.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1257968113.672432.1713455747307@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001301da91b1$12282270$36786750$@ebsmed.com>

Peter,

If you lay on your back in the cockpit and slide under the cockpit bench, you will surprised by a very large area inside the gunnel that serves as a great place for wasps to make a nest. They fly under the seats and up into the protected area.

Once a year they get so bad that I put plastic sheeting down to protect the cockpit floor, place plywood across the cockpit seats to close the space, and place a wasp insecticide bomb in the center of the cockpit floor. This usually takes out all of the critters in the cabin, cockpit and lazarette.

If you sail more frequently and play loud music (my speakers are in the lazarette facing the cockpit) they usually find a more suitable location.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2024 11:56 AM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wasps

Hi All,    My boat has come out of the storage barn and so begins my 2nd season as a Rhodes owner.     I was having a pretty bad issue last year with mud daubers in my lazarette.  I thought they were getting in through the hatch, so I purchased several kinds of weather stripping over the winter with an eye to seal up the hatch before they can set up shop.  When I went to take a look yesterday I realized that there's a huge area under the cockpit seats that's wide open into the lazarette.  (Apparently I never looked last year, possibly because I didn't like to get stung).   While I work on blocking off that entrance to my boat, I'm wondering if there are any other hidden ways into the boat that I should be aware of?  Has anyone else had this issue?  How did you solve it?
Thanks,
Peter   


From pbryanriley at gmail.com  Thu Apr 18 13:11:16 2024
From: pbryanriley at gmail.com (PBR)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 13:11:16 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wasps
In-Reply-To: <001301da91b1$12282270$36786750$@ebsmed.com>
References: <1257968113.672432.1713455747307.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1257968113.672432.1713455747307@mail.yahoo.com>
 <001301da91b1$12282270$36786750$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <CAJGJx+B6OgXR-zSTPjuR0U9xeCmDGSosh8rXoJa9Os0pfoxQWQ@mail.gmail.com>

For the off season I scatter dryer sheets around in the cabin and the laz.
I even put them under the cowling for my outboard.  Seems to be pretty
effective.
Patrick


On Thu, Apr 18, 2024 at 12:54?PM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> Peter,
>
> If you lay on your back in the cockpit and slide under the cockpit bench,
> you will surprised by a very large area inside the gunnel that serves as a
> great place for wasps to make a nest. They fly under the seats and up into
> the protected area.
>
> Once a year they get so bad that I put plastic sheeting down to protect
> the cockpit floor, place plywood across the cockpit seats to close the
> space, and place a wasp insecticide bomb in the center of the cockpit
> floor. This usually takes out all of the critters in the cabin, cockpit and
> lazarette.
>
> If you sail more frequently and play loud music (my speakers are in the
> lazarette facing the cockpit) they usually find a more suitable location.
>
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of
> peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list
> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2024 11:56 AM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wasps
>
> Hi All,    My boat has come out of the storage barn and so begins my 2nd
> season as a Rhodes owner.     I was having a pretty bad issue last year
> with mud daubers in my lazarette.  I thought they were getting in through
> the hatch, so I purchased several kinds of weather stripping over the
> winter with an eye to seal up the hatch before they can set up shop.  When
> I went to take a look yesterday I realized that there's a huge area under
> the cockpit seats that's wide open into the lazarette.  (Apparently I never
> looked last year, possibly because I didn't like to get stung).   While I
> work on blocking off that entrance to my boat, I'm wondering if there are
> any other hidden ways into the boat that I should be aware of?  Has anyone
> else had this issue?  How did you solve it?
> Thanks,
> Peter
>
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 18 13:19:43 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 13:19:43 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wasps
Message-ID: <E1rxVQF-00BxOv-0j@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I beg to differ.  Mud daubers are less aggressive wasps.  They generally will leave you alone, but will sting if you do anything that makes them feel threatened, such as getting your gas can out of your lazarette.  

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 18 13:34:36 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 13:34:36 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wasps
Message-ID: <E1rxVee-00CG8P-2y@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Thanks again.  I don't think I have a vent in my head area, and the anchor rode storage is through a water tight screw on access hatch, but I wasn't aware of the cabin access under the cockpit seats.  Can you think of any reason not to plug these holes up?  Should I screen them for ventilation, or just glass over it and be done with it?

Thanks 
Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 18 13:45:14 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 13:45:14 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Wasps
Message-ID: <E1rxVow-00COT7-1r@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Thanks, ordered we'll see if this works.  I still want to seal off my boat.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Apr 19 17:14:42 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2024 17:14:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: The Rhodes 22 Fleet
Message-ID: <E1rxvZC-005Fzz-1u@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Using the copy of an old version of 'da list' from 2004 provided by Mary Lou, I've added about 80 boats to the database.  To me, the main purpose of this exercise is to capture some of the history of individual boats.  Therefor, I only added boats that had a valid looking hull ID number.  

All boats have been connected to owners. In most cases the owners identified on 'da list' had at one time been active participants in the email list, and so were already 'Members' here on the website. Some owners though had apparently never posted to the email list, so 'Member' records were created.

Boats and owners created during this process are designated by an asterisk at the end of their name. For some boats, no name is given, so the name is just '*'.

There are currently 5 instances where the data tracks a boat through multiple owners, including my own boat.  You see this if you display the list of boats by hull ID.

They're a few boat owners from the 2004 paper list that are still active on the email list today.  I tried to avoid adding boat information to the profiles of these members.  I figured that if they wanted to add their boat information to the collected history, they could do so themselves.

Naturally, I'd encourage everyone who hasn't already done so to sign onto the website and add information to their profile, including data about their Rhodes 22.

The fleet list can be found here: https://www.rhodes22.net/rhodes22-fleet.html But you need to be signed in to see it.

--Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Fri Apr 19 18:13:15 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2024 18:13:15 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: The Rhodes 22 Fleet
In-Reply-To: <E1rxvZC-005Fzz-1u@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rxvZC-005Fzz-1u@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <000401da92a6$c7436480$55ca2d80$@ebsmed.com>

Peter,

I just added my boat info (for both, even though the '81 was sold over a dozen years ago).

This is a very nice feature.

Can we link the "fleet" to the Google Rhodie Map?
https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?thread=19067#postId_104150

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)



-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2024 5:15 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: The Rhodes 22 Fleet

Using the copy of an old version of 'da list' from 2004 provided by Mary Lou, I've added about 80 boats to the database.  To me, the main purpose of this exercise is to capture some of the history of individual boats.  Therefor, I only added boats that had a valid looking hull ID number.  

All boats have been connected to owners. In most cases the owners identified on 'da list' had at one time been active participants in the email list, and so were already 'Members' here on the website. Some owners though had apparently never posted to the email list, so 'Member' records were created.

Boats and owners created during this process are designated by an asterisk at the end of their name. For some boats, no name is given, so the name is just '*'.

There are currently 5 instances where the data tracks a boat through multiple owners, including my own boat.  You see this if you display the list of boats by hull ID.

They're a few boat owners from the 2004 paper list that are still active on the email list today.  I tried to avoid adding boat information to the profiles of these members.  I figured that if they wanted to add their boat information to the collected history, they could do so themselves.

Naturally, I'd encourage everyone who hasn't already done so to sign onto the website and add information to their profile, including data about their Rhodes 22.

The fleet list can be found here: https://www.rhodes22.net/rhodes22-fleet.html But you need to be signed in to see it.

--Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From rodellner at mac.com  Fri Apr 19 18:52:37 2024
From: rodellner at mac.com (Rod Ellner)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2024 16:52:37 -0600
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: The Rhodes 22 Fleet
In-Reply-To: <000401da92a6$c7436480$55ca2d80$@ebsmed.com>
References: <000401da92a6$c7436480$55ca2d80$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <102E3790-F5C8-44B1-963C-279433382633@mac.com>

Peter

HOW do we sign in?

RodMary

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 19, 2024, at 4:13 PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Peter,
> 
> I just added my boat info (for both, even though the '81 was sold over a dozen years ago).
> 
> This is a very nice feature.
> 
> Can we link the "fleet" to the Google Rhodie Map?
> https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?thread=19067#postId_104150
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
> Sent: Friday, April 19, 2024 5:15 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: The Rhodes 22 Fleet
> 
> Using the copy of an old version of 'da list' from 2004 provided by Mary Lou, I've added about 80 boats to the database.  To me, the main purpose of this exercise is to capture some of the history of individual boats.  Therefor, I only added boats that had a valid looking hull ID number.  
> 
> All boats have been connected to owners. In most cases the owners identified on 'da list' had at one time been active participants in the email list, and so were already 'Members' here on the website. Some owners though had apparently never posted to the email list, so 'Member' records were created.
> 
> Boats and owners created during this process are designated by an asterisk at the end of their name. For some boats, no name is given, so the name is just '*'.
> 
> There are currently 5 instances where the data tracks a boat through multiple owners, including my own boat.  You see this if you display the list of boats by hull ID.
> 
> They're a few boat owners from the 2004 paper list that are still active on the email list today.  I tried to avoid adding boat information to the profiles of these members.  I figured that if they wanted to add their boat information to the collected history, they could do so themselves.
> 
> Naturally, I'd encourage everyone who hasn't already done so to sign onto the website and add information to their profile, including data about their Rhodes 22.
> 
> The fleet list can be found here: https://www.rhodes22.net/rhodes22-fleet.html But you need to be signed in to see it.
> 
> --Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Apr 19 21:04:05 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2024 21:04:05 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: How to Sign in the First Time
Message-ID: <E1rxz9B-007sNX-0j@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Rod,

Go to rhodes22.net, and click on the text on left that says 'Sign In / Sign Up'

The 'Login' page should be displayed.  The third text block from the top starts with 'If you are a member of the Rhodes 22 Owner's Email List' and ends with 'click here'.  Click on 'click here'.

The 'Send Password' page should be displayed.  Enter the email address you use for the Rhodes22 email list and click 'Send Password'.  A password will be sent to that email address.  If you don't see it in your inbox, check your spam folder.

Go back to the Home page, and click on 'Sign In / Sign Up' again.

On the 'Login' Page, enter the same email address and the password that was sent. Also, if you're on a safe computer, check the 'Remember me' box.  Click 'Login'.

If that works, the menu on the left should now say "Hello: Rod Ellner", and have a little triangle pointing down.  Click on the triangle, and pick 'Your Member Profile'.  On your profile page you can enter information about yourself, and change your password to something that's not gibberish. 

If this doesn't work for you, let me know.

Good Luck,

Peter

> On 2024-04-19, at 18:52:37 EDT, Rod Ellner wrote:
>
> Peter
> 
> HOW do we sign in?
> 
> RodMary
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Fri Apr 19 21:11:28 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2024 21:11:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: The Rhodes 22 Fleet
Message-ID: <E1rxzGK-007zei-33@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Mike,

It's great to have the boat info, thanks.  But we need a picture too!

I have no idea if any sort of integration with the Google Map could be made to work.

--Peter

> On 2024-04-19, at 18:13:15 EDT, Michael D. Weisner wrote:
>
> Peter,
> 
> I just added my boat info (for both, even though the '81 was sold over a dozen 
> years ago). 
> 
> This is a very nice feature.
> 
> Can we link the "fleet" to the Google Rhodie Map?
> <a 
> href="https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?thread=19067#postId_104150">https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?thread=19067#postId_104150</a> 
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> 
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From thyatt at mica.edu  Fri Apr 19 23:04:07 2024
From: thyatt at mica.edu (Tom Hyatt)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2024 23:04:07 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: The Rhodes 22 Fleet
In-Reply-To: <E1rxzGK-007zei-33@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rxzGK-007zei-33@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CAEhtY2K7+jrbvJjN4an0J3EtsAyPkFxrerKAYtzJTJL7OrdYmg@mail.gmail.com>

Great work Peter. Thanks for your efforts on this.

Tom Hyatt

On Fri, Apr 19, 2024 at 9:11?PM Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> It's great to have the boat info, thanks.  But we need a picture too!
>
> I have no idea if any sort of integration with the Google Map could be
> made to work.
>
> --Peter
>
> > On 2024-04-19, at 18:13:15 EDT, Michael D. Weisner wrote:
> >
> > Peter,
> >
> > I just added my boat info (for both, even though the '81 was sold over a
> dozen
> > years ago).
> >
> > This is a very nice feature.
> >
> > Can we link the "fleet" to the Google Rhodie Map?
> > <a
> > href="
> https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?thread=19067#postId_104150">
> https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?thread=19067#postId_104150</a>
>
> >
> > Mike
> > s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> > Nissequogue River, NY
> > I?d rather be sailing :~)
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 21 09:53:10 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2024 13:53:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
References: <301908991.1509784.1713707590067.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <301908991.1509784.1713707590067@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi All,? ?I've got a problem with my centerboard not dropping, so yesterday I pulled the centerboard cap and had a look. I was expecting to find a tangled mess, but to my surprise things looked pretty good (except for the dead fish).? Upon closer inspection I find that the blocks on the centerboard seems to be a tad small for the diameter line running through them.? The blocks attached to the centerboard seem to be about 5mm (or 3/16"), while the blocks on the centerboard cap look to be about 8mm (or 1/4").? The line measures about 7-8mm and maybe a tad swollen down near the blocks (under the water line).? It's pretty hard to get the line to run through the smaller blocks and I can find nothing else that might be fouling the centerboard, sooo:? what size line is supposed to be used for controlling the centerboard?
Thanks,? ? Peter

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun Apr 21 10:20:37 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2024 14:20:37 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <301908991.1509784.1713707590067@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <301908991.1509784.1713707590067.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <301908991.1509784.1713707590067@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB428812302242175FB2F5338980132@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,

The line size sounds about right.  The blocks are too small.  I?ve had good luck with Harken Bullet Blocks.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 21, 2024, at 9:53?AM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Hi All,   I've got a problem with my centerboard not dropping, so yesterday I pulled the centerboard cap and had a look. I was expecting to find a tangled mess, but to my surprise things looked pretty good (except for the dead fish).  Upon closer inspection I find that the blocks on the centerboard seems to be a tad small for the diameter line running through them.  The blocks attached to the centerboard seem to be about 5mm (or 3/16"), while the blocks on the centerboard cap look to be about 8mm (or 1/4").  The line measures about 7-8mm and maybe a tad swollen down near the blocks (under the water line).  It's pretty hard to get the line to run through the smaller blocks and I can find nothing else that might be fouling the centerboard, sooo:  what size line is supposed to be used for controlling the centerboard?
> Thanks,    Peter

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Sun Apr 21 10:28:50 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2024 10:28:50 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR10MB428812302242175FB2F5338980132@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.2192.1713709736.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>

Stan recommended 1/4" line for the centerboard.Mikes/v '91 Wind LassNissequogue River, NY
-------- Original message --------From: ROGER PIHLAJA <roger_pihlaja at msn.com> Date: 4/21/24  10:20 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: peter beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>, The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size Hi Peter,The line size sounds about right.? The blocks are too small.? I?ve had good luck with Harken Bullet Blocks.Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 1978? Sanford, MISent from my iPhone> On Apr 21, 2024, at 9:53?AM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:> > ?Hi All,?? I've got a problem with my centerboard not dropping, so yesterday I pulled the centerboard cap and had a look. I was expecting to find a tangled mess, but to my surprise things looked pretty good (except for the dead fish).? Upon closer inspection I find that the blocks on the centerboard seems to be a tad small for the diameter line running through them.? The blocks attached to the centerboard seem to be about 5mm (or 3/16"), while the blocks on the centerboard cap look to be about 8mm (or 1/4").? The line measures about 7-8mm and maybe a tad swollen down near the blocks (under the water line).? It's pretty hard to get the line to run through the smaller blocks and I can find nothing else that might be fouling the centerboard, sooo:? what size line is supposed to be used for controlling the centerboard?> Thanks,??? Peter

From tavares0947 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 21 11:54:50 2024
From: tavares0947 at gmail.com (Todd Tavares)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2024 11:54:50 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2192.1713709736.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
References: <MN2PR10MB428812302242175FB2F5338980132@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <mailman.2192.1713709736.2787.rhodes22-list@rhodes22.org>
Message-ID: <CAB-twMO0THp9_qcP+6FpZVFdq2_9dCmE8p4NTUfxnRQtU2DM2A@mail.gmail.com>

Well, I am glad I read this. I went by very old posts on the list.
I just rebuilt my centerboard and replaced the blocks/sheaves with ones
simular to original. It was difficult to source ones with identical
flanges.
I'm replacing all of the running rigging now. The pennant on there was
about 5/16" but definitely not 1/4". I got 5/16", and it goes through the
c/b blocks quite easily.  But now I am worried that the line will swell.
I still have time to go down one size because the trunk cap is still off
for some glass work. Thanks

Todd T.

On Sun, Apr 21, 2024, 10:28 AM Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com>
wrote:

> Stan recommended 1/4" line for the centerboard.Mikes/v '91 Wind
> LassNissequogue River, NY
> -------- Original message --------From: ROGER PIHLAJA <
> roger_pihlaja at msn.com> Date: 4/21/24  10:20 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: peter
> beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>, The Rhodes 22 Email List <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard
> won't drop/ control line size Hi Peter,The line size sounds about right.
> The blocks are too small.  I?ve had good luck with Harken Bullet
> Blocks.Roger Pihlaja S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 1978  Sanford, MISent from my
> iPhone> On Apr 21, 2024, at 9:53?AM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:> > ?Hi All,   I've got a problem with
> my centerboard not dropping, so yesterday I pulled the centerboard cap and
> had a look. I was expecting to find a tangled mess, but to my surprise
> things looked pretty good (except for the dead fish).  Upon closer
> inspection I find that the blocks on the centerboard seems to be a tad
> small for the diameter line running through them.  The blocks attached to
> the centerboard seem to be about 5mm (or 3/16"), while the blocks on the
> centerboard cap look to be about 8mm (or 1/4").  The line measures about
> 7-8mm and maybe a tad swollen down near the blocks (under the water line).
> It's pretty hard to get the line to run through the smaller blocks and I
> can find nothing else that might be fouling the centerboard, sooo:  what
> size line is supposed to be used for controlling the centerboard?>
> Thanks,    Peter
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 21 11:57:26 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2024 11:57:26 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1ryZZG-003A3V-2l@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I don't have access to my boat at the moment (it's about an hour drive away).  Is it pretty straightforward to change the blocks on the centerboard?  Can I do it without removing the centerboard?  

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Sun Apr 21 14:38:42 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (Graham Stewart)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2024 14:38:42 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <E1ryZZG-003A3V-2l@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1ryZZG-003A3V-2l@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <CACdaeT77VRMYng6Mku5vQy8v00qzCpz5-gkw62HheuUADNLe9g@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, changing the blocks on my boat was simple and uncomplicated. You don't
need, or want,  to remove the centerboard.

Graham Stewart
Agile 76


On Sun, Apr 21, 2024 at 11:57?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I don't have access to my boat at the moment (it's about an hour drive
> away).  Is it pretty straightforward to change the blocks on the
> centerboard?  Can I do it without removing the centerboard?
>
> Peter
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun Apr 21 14:57:06 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2024 18:57:06 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <CACdaeT77VRMYng6Mku5vQy8v00qzCpz5-gkw62HheuUADNLe9g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E1ryZZG-003A3V-2l@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <CACdaeT77VRMYng6Mku5vQy8v00qzCpz5-gkw62HheuUADNLe9g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288BF502000E91F2109E20580132@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,
Assuming you still have the centerboard cap off, changing out the blocks is an easy 10 minute job.

Roger Pihlaja 
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 21, 2024, at 2:39?PM, Graham Stewart <gstewart.gm at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Yes, changing the blocks on my boat was simple and uncomplicated. You don't
> need, or want,  to remove the centerboard.
> 
> Graham Stewart
> Agile 76
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Apr 21, 2024 at 11:57?AM peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <
>> rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I don't have access to my boat at the moment (it's about an hour drive
>> away).  Is it pretty straightforward to change the blocks on the
>> centerboard?  Can I do it without removing the centerboard?
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 21 14:59:51 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2024 14:59:51 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rycPn-00HUkZ-0u@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Hi Todd, 
    It's difficult to be certain about the swelling.  It certainly wasn't dramatic.  I was using a plastic caliper that I got for free from new england rope at the boat show, and rope is a bit squishy.  I think my problem is really mismatched block/line.  If you have matched blocks and line, I think you're good.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 21 15:02:18 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2024 15:02:18 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rycSA-00HZYm-2g@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Yep, still off.   I bet it takes me at least 45!

Thanks for your help 

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Sun Apr 21 15:20:06 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2024 19:20:06 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <E1rycSA-00HZYm-2g@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rycSA-00HZYm-2g@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288FD8A7D8C1B72734AF4D780132@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,

I made no allowance for operator skill!  ;<)

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978  Sanford, MI
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2024 3:02 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size

Yep, still off.   I bet it takes me at least 45!

Thanks for your help

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 21 18:04:38 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2024 18:04:38 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1ryfIc-0024mI-32@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

In my case that would be operator lack of skill!

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Tue Apr 23 17:39:40 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2024 17:39:40 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rzNrY-00GWmC-11@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I've been looking at some centerboard photos posted over the years and they look very similar to mine with the slightly smaller blocks on the centerboard and the bigger blocks on the centerboard cap.  I haven't come across anyone else having a centerboard get stuck because of the smaller blocks.  Anyone hear of this happening before?  I wonder if there's anything else I should be scrutinizing.  I don't see anything stuck in the trunk.  Is there anything at the pivot I should look for?
   Probably unrelated but the board does thump a bit when the boat rocks.  I'm seeing that mentioned in my searches and I gather it's not supposed to do that.  I did notice some room around the pivot bolt which I'll try to photograph tomorrow.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Peter 

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Tue Apr 23 18:05:05 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2024 22:05:05 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <E1rzNrY-00GWmC-11@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rzNrY-00GWmC-11@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288A677D4E87D616262E58880112@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Peter,
Back in 2010, the centerboard pivot on my Rhodes 22 had developed enough play; that, there was noticeable ?clunking? of the centerboard in the well.  It?s the only time I?ve removed the centerboard or opened up the centerboard cap.  While I had the centerboard out, I bored out the hole to accept a sintered bronze bushing and changed out the shoulder bolt.  It?s smooth as butter now and no more clunking.  But, even at peak sloppiness, there was no tendency for the centerboard to jamb in the well, it just made noise.  Have you checked to see if the pennant runs free thru the blocks?  Is there enough clearance along the side of the centerboard for the pennant to slip in there and maybe jam the centerboard against the well?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978  Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 23, 2024, at 5:39?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?I've been looking at some centerboard photos posted over the years and they look very similar to mine with the slightly smaller blocks on the centerboard and the bigger blocks on the centerboard cap.  I haven't come across anyone else having a centerboard get stuck because of the smaller blocks.  Anyone hear of this happening before?  I wonder if there's anything else I should be scrutinizing.  I don't see anything stuck in the trunk.  Is there anything at the pivot I should look for?
>   Probably unrelated but the board does thump a bit when the boat rocks.  I'm seeing that mentioned in my searches and I gather it's not supposed to do that.  I did notice some room around the pivot bolt which I'll try to photograph tomorrow.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks,
> Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Tue Apr 23 19:49:50 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2024 19:49:50 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rzPtW-000TXJ-2Q@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

The pennant does not run freely through the blocks, and I think I'm going to get bigger blocks for the centerboard and maybe a new pennant.  I'm going to take a closer look (and photos) of the pivot tomorrow.  I'll post some pics.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From gstewart.gm at gmail.com  Tue Apr 23 21:27:09 2024
From: gstewart.gm at gmail.com (gstewart.gm at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2024 21:27:09 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <E1rzNrY-00GWmC-11@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rzNrY-00GWmC-11@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <1f8201da95e6$8701a6a0$9504f3e0$@gmail.com>

When I removed my centerboard I found that all of the blocks had seized and the pulleys would not rotate at all. Even so, I had been able to lower the centerboard. Retraction was difficult because of the friction but still quite possible. I don't think that the condition of the blocks alone would  likely stop the centerboard from lowering.
Graham Stewart
Adile 1976

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2024 5:40 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size

I've been looking at some centerboard photos posted over the years and they look very similar to mine with the slightly smaller blocks on the centerboard and the bigger blocks on the centerboard cap.  I haven't come across anyone else having a centerboard get stuck because of the smaller blocks.  Anyone hear of this happening before?  I wonder if there's anything else I should be scrutinizing.  I don't see anything stuck in the trunk.  Is there anything at the pivot I should look for?
   Probably unrelated but the board does thump a bit when the boat rocks.  I'm seeing that mentioned in my searches and I gather it's not supposed to do that.  I did notice some room around the pivot bolt which I'll try to photograph tomorrow.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Peter 

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Wed Apr 24 07:10:59 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 07:10:59 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <1f8201da95e6$8701a6a0$9504f3e0$@gmail.com>
References: <1f8201da95e6$8701a6a0$9504f3e0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <772CF838-DB41-4B5F-AC2A-D5C098585222@stottarchitecture.com>

The small blocks mounted on the trailing edge of the CB are from the UK. 
They are unique in that they have a tang that slips into a slot on the trailing edge of the blade.  I can?t look them up now but will try during the day. 
Also use the most flexible 1/4 line you can find. 
Ric 
Dadventure

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 23, 2024, at 9:27?PM, gstewart.gm at gmail.com wrote:
> 
> ?When I removed my centerboard I found that all of the blocks had seized and the pulleys would not rotate at all. Even so, I had been able to lower the centerboard. Retraction was difficult because of the friction but still quite possible. I don't think that the condition of the blocks alone would  likely stop the centerboard from lowering.
> Graham Stewart
> Adile 1976
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list
> Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2024 5:40 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
> 
> I've been looking at some centerboard photos posted over the years and they look very similar to mine with the slightly smaller blocks on the centerboard and the bigger blocks on the centerboard cap.  I haven't come across anyone else having a centerboard get stuck because of the smaller blocks.  Anyone hear of this happening before?  I wonder if there's anything else I should be scrutinizing.  I don't see anything stuck in the trunk.  Is there anything at the pivot I should look for?
>   Probably unrelated but the board does thump a bit when the boat rocks.  I'm seeing that mentioned in my searches and I gather it's not supposed to do that.  I did notice some room around the pivot bolt which I'll try to photograph tomorrow.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks,
> Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 

From ruehbl at msn.com  Wed Apr 24 09:20:17 2024
From: ruehbl at msn.com (BARRY RUEHLEN)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 13:20:17 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <772CF838-DB41-4B5F-AC2A-D5C098585222@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <1f8201da95e6$8701a6a0$9504f3e0$@gmail.com>
 <772CF838-DB41-4B5F-AC2A-D5C098585222@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <IA1PR19MB64989508BC1AF1FE622B34B1C1102@IA1PR19MB6498.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Ric,
I would also be very interested in the source if the blocks with the insert tangs. While refitting a replacement centerboard on our "project" boat, I was forced into reusing the existing ones that are not in the best condition.
Barry,
Perseverance '87

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
________________________________
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> on behalf of Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2024 7:10:59 AM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size

The small blocks mounted on the trailing edge of the CB are from the UK.
They are unique in that they have a tang that slips into a slot on the trailing edge of the blade.  I can?t look them up now but will try during the day.
Also use the most flexible 1/4 line you can find.
Ric
Dadventure

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 23, 2024, at 9:27?PM, gstewart.gm at gmail.com wrote:
>
> ?When I removed my centerboard I found that all of the blocks had seized and the pulleys would not rotate at all. Even so, I had been able to lower the centerboard. Retraction was difficult because of the friction but still quite possible. I don't think that the condition of the blocks alone would  likely stop the centerboard from lowering.
> Graham Stewart
> Adile 1976
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list
> Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2024 5:40 PM
> To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
>
> I've been looking at some centerboard photos posted over the years and they look very similar to mine with the slightly smaller blocks on the centerboard and the bigger blocks on the centerboard cap.  I haven't come across anyone else having a centerboard get stuck because of the smaller blocks.  Anyone hear of this happening before?  I wonder if there's anything else I should be scrutinizing.  I don't see anything stuck in the trunk.  Is there anything at the pivot I should look for?
>   Probably unrelated but the board does thump a bit when the boat rocks.  I'm seeing that mentioned in my searches and I gather it's not supposed to do that.  I did notice some room around the pivot bolt which I'll try to photograph tomorrow.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Peter
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 24 12:29:29 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 12:29:29 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rzfUv-00FvnR-0g@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

The blocks on my centerboard seem to be in okay shape (given their age).  They are not seized, damaged or obviously corroded.  Perhaps my pennant line has gotten too stiff and cruddy to pass through freely.  Perhaps I just need a new line.  I would prefer a slightly larger block if they make them.  If you have any info on these blocks, maker, or source I'd love to know.

Thanks,
Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 24 12:36:37 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 12:36:37 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rzfbp-00G5bu-38@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I'm wondering about using 3/16" line for the centerboard pennant.  I think quality line should be up to the task strength-wise.  Do you all think that the cam cleat will handle the smaller line?  Any downside to using 3/16?

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Apr 24 12:40:08 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 12:40:08 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <E1rzfbp-00G5bu-38@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rzfbp-00G5bu-38@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <001101da9666$128cf830$37a6e890$@ebsmed.com>

Peter,

Why would you use line that is thinner than 1/4"?

The cam cleat may not engage and it might hurt your hands to pull on it.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2024 12:37 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size

I'm wondering about using 3/16" line for the centerboard pennant.  I think quality line should be up to the task strength-wise.  Do you all think that the cam cleat will handle the smaller line?  Any downside to using 3/16?

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 24 12:56:51 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 12:56:51 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rzfvP-00GJHZ-37@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

The small blocks on the trailing edge of the centerboard appear to be sized for 3/16" line (see attached photo).  The blocks on the cap look like 1/4" blocks.  It's very hard to pull the current pennant through the smaller blocks.  Fresh line will probably run freely, but if there's no real downside to a line sized for the existing block, why use the bigger line?
   Given how infrequently I expect to be adjusting the centerboard pennant, I'm not too worried about how the line will feel, how it'll hold in the cleat however is of prime importance which is why I asked.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Wed Apr 24 13:22:55 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 13:22:55 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rzgKd-00GirB-2Z@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

If there are blocks in the system sized for 3/16", then 1/4" would be oversized.  Good quality 3/16" would be plenty strong enough.  As for being easy on your hands, General Boats gave me a nice handle to make than a non-issue. 



> On 2024-04-24, at 12:56:51 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:
>
> The small blocks on the trailing edge of the centerboard appear to be sized for 
> 3/16" line (see attached photo).  The blocks on the cap look like 1/4" blocks.  
> It's very hard to pull the current pennant through the smaller blocks.  Fresh 
> line will probably run freely, but if there's no real downside to a line sized 
> for the existing block, why use the bigger line? 
>    Given how infrequently I expect to be adjusting the centerboard pennant, I'm 
> not too worried about how the line will feel, how it'll hold in the cleat 
> however is of prime importance which is why I asked. 
> 
> Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240424/9d997adc/attachment.jpg" 
> target="_blank">IMG_20240420_171805.jpg</a> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
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From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Wed Apr 24 13:23:09 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 13:23:09 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <E1rzfbp-00G5bu-38@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rzfbp-00G5bu-38@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <6B440E97-8547-40AE-91E4-F75BE59BD6F8@stottarchitecture.com>

Good news! 
First - I agree with Mike - don?t go less than 1/4? line but it must be very flexible line, not sta-set.   
Nest - I found the CB turning block info.
The blocks are from Pinnel and Bax Limited.
Model R1620 - 18mm Block with Ferrule Eye.
IN 2019 when I hauled out at the end of the season, the first try landing the boat onto the trailer- the boat was too far aft, so I re-launched. 
The CB pendant was not cleated when I relaunched. The CB swung down and hit bottom as the boat came off the trailer.  It pushed the CB right through the top of the CB cap - a nautical disaster. 
Fortunately Stan and Charles were able to hook me up with a new cap. I had to exchange internal parts ( the Ferrul block, the pivot pin and of course all the bolt holes had to be drilled, but it worked out fine. 
The blocks for the inside of the cap are Harken Micro-blocks I think #22 on two small pad eyes thru bolted into the top of the CB cap. 
Don?t ever launch with the CB pendant loose. 
The last photo is what might happen if you do. 

Here is their web link 
https://www.pinbax.com/search/r1620?

?

?

?

?

?



 
Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Apr 24, 2024, at 12:36 PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> I'm wondering about using 3/16" line for the centerboard pennant.  I think quality line should be up to the task strength-wise.  Do you all think that the cam cleat will handle the smaller line?  Any downside to using 3/16?
> 
> Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

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From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 24 13:27:30 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 13:27:30 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rzgP4-00Gmuc-0o@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

That IS a nice handle!  Do you think that the cam cleat will hold the slightly smaller line reliability?  I really don't want the centerboard dropping in an uncontrolled fashion at an inopportune moment 

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Apr 24 13:43:04 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 13:43:04 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <E1rzgKd-00GirB-2Z@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rzgKd-00GirB-2Z@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <001601da966e$dcf147e0$96d3d7a0$@ebsmed.com>

I gotta get one of these handles. I only have a ball on a stopper knot.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Peter Nyberg
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2024 1:23 PM
To: rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size

If there are blocks in the system sized for 3/16", then 1/4" would be oversized.  Good quality 3/16" would be plenty strong enough.  As for being easy on your hands, General Boats gave me a nice handle to make than a non-issue. 



> On 2024-04-24, at 12:56:51 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:
>
> The small blocks on the trailing edge of the centerboard appear to be 
> sized for 3/16" line (see attached photo).  The blocks on the cap look like 1/4" blocks.
> It's very hard to pull the current pennant through the smaller blocks.  
> Fresh line will probably run freely, but if there's no real downside 
> to a line sized for the existing block, why use the bigger line?
>    Given how infrequently I expect to be adjusting the centerboard 
> pennant, I'm not too worried about how the line will feel, how it'll 
> hold in the cleat however is of prime importance which is why I asked.
> 
> Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
> <a
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240424/9d997adc/attachment.jpg" 
> target="_blank">IMG_20240420_171805.jpg</a>
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Wed Apr 24 13:50:26 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 13:50:26 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rzglG-00H6tB-3A@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Peter

My gut said the cam cleat would work with a smaller line, but I decided to do a quick check.  Where I can find minimum line sizes specified, it's listed as 1/8".  So, I'm pretty confident that the cam cleat should not be an issue in your decision.

--Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)

> On 2024-04-24, at 13:27:30 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:
>
> That IS a nice handle!  Do you think that the cam cleat will hold the slightly 
> smaller line reliability?  I really don't want the centerboard dropping in an 
> uncontrolled fashion at an inopportune moment 
> 
> Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Wed Apr 24 13:51:39 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 13:51:39 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rzgmR-00H7di-1z@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I'm sensing a business opportunity ...

--Peter

> On 2024-04-24, at 13:43:04 EDT, Michael D. Weisner wrote:
>
> I gotta get one of these handles. I only have a ball on a stopper knot.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Apr 24 13:52:00 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 13:52:00 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <6B440E97-8547-40AE-91E4-F75BE59BD6F8@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <E1rzfbp-00G5bu-38@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <6B440E97-8547-40AE-91E4-F75BE59BD6F8@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <001b01da9670$1c8fca60$55af5f20$@ebsmed.com>

When Stan taught me how to launch and recover my first R22 way back in 1981, he always touted how the submerged Triad trailer guides would bring the boat right up into the center of the trailer and the CB would be automatically retracted by the roller. We ALWAYS recovered with the board in the down position since the current at the ramp was very strong and it helped to center the hull. Fortunately, I ALWAYS tightly cleated the line before driving home, because the sound of the rudder bumping along on the roller bothered me as I listened to the sounds of the boat and trailer getting reacquainted while I was driving. Your final picture really shows how lucky I was all those years ago when we were true trailer sailors.

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Ric Stott
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2024 1:23 PM
To: peter beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>; The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size

Good news! 
First - I agree with Mike - don?t go less than 1/4? line but it must be very flexible line, not sta-set.   
Nest - I found the CB turning block info.
The blocks are from Pinnel and Bax Limited.
Model R1620 - 18mm Block with Ferrule Eye.
IN 2019 when I hauled out at the end of the season, the first try landing the boat onto the trailer- the boat was too far aft, so I re-launched. 
The CB pendant was not cleated when I relaunched. The CB swung down and hit bottom as the boat came off the trailer.  It pushed the CB right through the top of the CB cap - a nautical disaster. 
Fortunately Stan and Charles were able to hook me up with a new cap. I had to exchange internal parts ( the Ferrul block, the pivot pin and of course all the bolt holes had to be drilled, but it worked out fine. 
The blocks for the inside of the cap are Harken Micro-blocks I think #22 on two small pad eyes thru bolted into the top of the CB cap. 
Don?t ever launch with the CB pendant loose. 
The last photo is what might happen if you do. 

Here is their web link 
https://www.pinbax.com/search/r1620?

?

?

?

?

?



 
Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Apr 24, 2024, at 12:36 PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> I'm wondering about using 3/16" line for the centerboard pennant.  I think quality line should be up to the task strength-wise.  Do you all think that the cam cleat will handle the smaller line?  Any downside to using 3/16?
> 
> Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

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From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Wed Apr 24 14:12:30 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 14:12:30 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <001b01da9670$1c8fca60$55af5f20$@ebsmed.com>
References: <E1rzfbp-00G5bu-38@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <6B440E97-8547-40AE-91E4-F75BE59BD6F8@stottarchitecture.com>
 <001b01da9670$1c8fca60$55af5f20$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <C90D1D7B-B1EE-40C6-994A-219D2573D144@stottarchitecture.com>

BTW Mike
It was the trailer I bought from you. 
It took me years to rebuild it and I had only used it once or twice at that point. 
I had a commercial hauler launch and retrieve before that. 
It was an expensive lesson that will never need to be relearn. 
Ric.  
 Dadventure 
Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Apr 24, 2024, at 1:52 PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
> 
> When Stan taught me how to launch and recover my first R22 way back in 1981, he always touted how the submerged Triad trailer guides would bring the boat right up into the center of the trailer and the CB would be automatically retracted by the roller. We ALWAYS recovered with the board in the down position since the current at the ramp was very strong and it helped to center the hull. Fortunately, I ALWAYS tightly cleated the line before driving home, because the sound of the rudder bumping along on the roller bothered me as I listened to the sounds of the boat and trailer getting reacquainted while I was driving. Your final picture really shows how lucky I was all those years ago when we were true trailer sailors.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org <mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org>> On Behalf Of Ric Stott
> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2024 1:23 PM
> To: peter beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com <mailto:recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>>; The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
> 
> Good news! 
> First - I agree with Mike - don?t go less than 1/4? line but it must be very flexible line, not sta-set.   
> Nest - I found the CB turning block info.
> The blocks are from Pinnel and Bax Limited.
> Model R1620 - 18mm Block with Ferrule Eye.
> IN 2019 when I hauled out at the end of the season, the first try landing the boat onto the trailer- the boat was too far aft, so I re-launched. 
> The CB pendant was not cleated when I relaunched. The CB swung down and hit bottom as the boat came off the trailer.  It pushed the CB right through the top of the CB cap - a nautical disaster. 
> Fortunately Stan and Charles were able to hook me up with a new cap. I had to exchange internal parts ( the Ferrul block, the pivot pin and of course all the bolt holes had to be drilled, but it worked out fine. 
> The blocks for the inside of the cap are Harken Micro-blocks I think #22 on two small pad eyes thru bolted into the top of the CB cap. 
> Don?t ever launch with the CB pendant loose. 
> The last photo is what might happen if you do. 
> 
> Here is their web link 
> https://www.pinbax.com/search/r1620?
> 
> ?
> 
> ?
> 
> ?
> 
> ?
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
> ric at stottarchitecture.com
> O -631-283-1777
> C- 516-965-3164
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 24, 2024, at 12:36 PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I'm wondering about using 3/16" line for the centerboard pennant.  I think quality line should be up to the task strength-wise.  Do you all think that the cam cleat will handle the smaller line?  Any downside to using 3/16?
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
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From mweisner at ebsmed.com  Wed Apr 24 14:32:15 2024
From: mweisner at ebsmed.com (Michael D. Weisner)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 14:32:15 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <C90D1D7B-B1EE-40C6-994A-219D2573D144@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <E1rzfbp-00G5bu-38@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <6B440E97-8547-40AE-91E4-F75BE59BD6F8@stottarchitecture.com>
 <001b01da9670$1c8fca60$55af5f20$@ebsmed.com>
 <C90D1D7B-B1EE-40C6-994A-219D2573D144@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <002001da9675$bb9b2d20$32d18760$@ebsmed.com>

Ric,

Sorry that it was THAT trailer. I actually bought it from Lou Rosenberg of "Miracles" fame in Brooklyn. The ride from Lou's Flatbush Marine Terminal to my home was a bit unusual as I was stopped twice on the LIE (495) regarding the homemade wooden fenders. I will never forget that trailer. I hope she serves you well. BTW, last I heard, Lou sold Miracles, without a trailer, in September 2017. His last post to da list was 12/31/2019. Has anyone heard from Lou?

Mike
s/v Wind Lass ('91)
Nissequogue River, NY
I?d rather be sailing :~)

-----Original Message-----
From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org> On Behalf Of Ric Stott
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2024 2:13 PM
To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>
Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size

BTW Mike
It was the trailer I bought from you. 
It took me years to rebuild it and I had only used it once or twice at that point. 
I had a commercial hauler launch and retrieve before that. 
It was an expensive lesson that will never need to be relearn. 
Ric.  
 Dadventure
Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Apr 24, 2024, at 1:52 PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
> 
> When Stan taught me how to launch and recover my first R22 way back in 1981, he always touted how the submerged Triad trailer guides would bring the boat right up into the center of the trailer and the CB would be automatically retracted by the roller. We ALWAYS recovered with the board in the down position since the current at the ramp was very strong and it helped to center the hull. Fortunately, I ALWAYS tightly cleated the line before driving home, because the sound of the rudder bumping along on the roller bothered me as I listened to the sounds of the boat and trailer getting reacquainted while I was driving. Your final picture really shows how lucky I was all those years ago when we were true trailer sailors.
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org 
> <mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org>> On Behalf Of Ric Stott
> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2024 1:23 PM
> To: peter beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com 
> <mailto:recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>>; The Rhodes 22 Email List 
> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
> 
> Good news! 
> First - I agree with Mike - don?t go less than 1/4? line but it must be very flexible line, not sta-set.   
> Nest - I found the CB turning block info.
> The blocks are from Pinnel and Bax Limited.
> Model R1620 - 18mm Block with Ferrule Eye.
> IN 2019 when I hauled out at the end of the season, the first try landing the boat onto the trailer- the boat was too far aft, so I re-launched. 
> The CB pendant was not cleated when I relaunched. The CB swung down and hit bottom as the boat came off the trailer.  It pushed the CB right through the top of the CB cap - a nautical disaster. 
> Fortunately Stan and Charles were able to hook me up with a new cap. I had to exchange internal parts ( the Ferrul block, the pivot pin and of course all the bolt holes had to be drilled, but it worked out fine. 
> The blocks for the inside of the cap are Harken Micro-blocks I think #22 on two small pad eyes thru bolted into the top of the CB cap. 
> Don?t ever launch with the CB pendant loose. 
> The last photo is what might happen if you do. 
> 
> Here is their web link
> https://www.pinbax.com/search/r1620
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> ric at stottarchitecture.com
> O -631-283-1777
> C- 516-965-3164
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 24, 2024, at 12:36 PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I'm wondering about using 3/16" line for the centerboard pennant.  I think quality line should be up to the task strength-wise.  Do you all think that the cam cleat will handle the smaller line?  Any downside to using 3/16?
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Wed Apr 24 14:35:48 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 18:35:48 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <E1rzfvP-00GJHZ-37@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rzfvP-00GJHZ-37@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288C841154D118F0A32B65280102@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Peter,

The position of the centerboard can be used to fine tune the fore/aft location of the center of lateral resistance of the hull (CLR).  The position of the CLR relative to the sail plan?s center of effort (CE) determines whether you have weather, neutral, or lee helm.  For example, if you have too much weather helm, rather than reduce your mainsail area, which would slow you down, you can slightly raise the centerboard.  This will shift the CLR aft and reduce the weather helm.  Once you get used to this fine tuning adjustment, you may find yourself manipulating the centerboard pennant fairly often, especially if you like to go fast.

The centerboard blocks on my Rhodes 22 do not have any sort of special mounting tang.  The centerboard on early Rhodes 22?s is literally the same hydrofoil as the rudder blade.  Note that the centerboard changed when GBI went to the so-called ?diamond board? on later model year boats. The block on my centerboard mounts, via the same hole used to raise/lower the rudder blade, to a standard slotted pin shackle, for example a Ronstan, RONST #RF151.  As I mentioned previously, I?ve had good luck with a Harken Single Bullet Block, HARKN 082.  This block will work with up to 5/16? OD line.  The MOC?s are all electro polished 316 SS and Delrin, so corrosion will not be an issue.  I would use New England Ropes Sta-Set polyester yacht braid.  Sta-Set is available in solid colors, doesn?t stretch, will grip well in the cam cleat, and doesn?t get fuzzy with time.  I recommend you get some color that?s different from every other line on your boat.  Then, when you tell a newby guest to ?haul in on the red line by the companionway hatch?, there will be no confusion.

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1977 Sanford, MI
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 24, 2024, at 12:57?PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> ?The small blocks on the trailing edge of the centerboard appear to be sized for 3/16" line (see attached photo).  The blocks on the cap look like 1/4" blocks.  It's very hard to pull the current pennant through the smaller blocks.  Fresh line will probably run freely, but if there's no real downside to a line sized for the existing block, why use the bigger line?
>   Given how infrequently I expect to be adjusting the centerboard pennant, I'm not too worried about how the line will feel, how it'll hold in the cleat however is of prime importance which is why I asked.
>
> Peter
>
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
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From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Wed Apr 24 16:29:33 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 16:29:33 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <002001da9675$bb9b2d20$32d18760$@ebsmed.com>
References: <E1rzfbp-00G5bu-38@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
 <6B440E97-8547-40AE-91E4-F75BE59BD6F8@stottarchitecture.com>
 <001b01da9670$1c8fca60$55af5f20$@ebsmed.com>
 <C90D1D7B-B1EE-40C6-994A-219D2573D144@stottarchitecture.com>
 <002001da9675$bb9b2d20$32d18760$@ebsmed.com>
Message-ID: <D2C81465-68EB-4476-99DF-00D37B7B448E@stottarchitecture.com>

Mike - it wasn?t the trailer?s fault, it was my fault.  I rebuilt the trailer - took all that wood crap off it, bought a new extension tongue, new axel, springs and wheels, new Galvanized fenders,  which I don?t even use. Ana new paint job or 3 ok maybe 4 since I bought it. 
It looks pretty good now and serves the purpose twice a year but the rust is winning - I wouldn?t take it far or fast. 
If there is a used Galvanized trailer available, I might trade up. 
Ric 
Dadventure

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Apr 24, 2024, at 2:32 PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
> 
> Ric,
> 
> Sorry that it was THAT trailer. I actually bought it from Lou Rosenberg of "Miracles" fame in Brooklyn. The ride from Lou's Flatbush Marine Terminal to my home was a bit unusual as I was stopped twice on the LIE (495) regarding the homemade wooden fenders. I will never forget that trailer. I hope she serves you well. BTW, last I heard, Lou sold Miracles, without a trailer, in September 2017. His last post to da list was 12/31/2019. Has anyone heard from Lou?
> 
> Mike
> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
> Nissequogue River, NY
> I?d rather be sailing :~)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org <mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org>> On Behalf Of Ric Stott
> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2024 2:13 PM
> To: The Rhodes 22 Email List <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>>
> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
> 
> BTW Mike
> It was the trailer I bought from you. 
> It took me years to rebuild it and I had only used it once or twice at that point. 
> I had a commercial hauler launch and retrieve before that. 
> It was an expensive lesson that will never need to be relearn. 
> Ric.  
> Dadventure
> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> ric at stottarchitecture.com
> O -631-283-1777
> C- 516-965-3164
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 24, 2024, at 1:52 PM, Michael D. Weisner <mweisner at ebsmed.com> wrote:
>> 
>> When Stan taught me how to launch and recover my first R22 way back in 1981, he always touted how the submerged Triad trailer guides would bring the boat right up into the center of the trailer and the CB would be automatically retracted by the roller. We ALWAYS recovered with the board in the down position since the current at the ramp was very strong and it helped to center the hull. Fortunately, I ALWAYS tightly cleated the line before driving home, because the sound of the rudder bumping along on the roller bothered me as I listened to the sounds of the boat and trailer getting reacquainted while I was driving. Your final picture really shows how lucky I was all those years ago when we were true trailer sailors.
>> 
>> Mike
>> s/v Wind Lass ('91)
>> Nissequogue River, NY
>> I?d rather be sailing :~)
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org 
>> <mailto:rhodes22-list-bounces at rhodes22.org>> On Behalf Of Ric Stott
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2024 1:23 PM
>> To: peter beckerman <recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com <mailto:recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com> 
>> <mailto:recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com>>; The Rhodes 22 Email List 
>> <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org <mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> <mailto:rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org>>
>> Subject: Re: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
>> 
>> Good news! 
>> First - I agree with Mike - don?t go less than 1/4? line but it must be very flexible line, not sta-set.   
>> Nest - I found the CB turning block info.
>> The blocks are from Pinnel and Bax Limited.
>> Model R1620 - 18mm Block with Ferrule Eye.
>> IN 2019 when I hauled out at the end of the season, the first try landing the boat onto the trailer- the boat was too far aft, so I re-launched. 
>> The CB pendant was not cleated when I relaunched. The CB swung down and hit bottom as the boat came off the trailer.  It pushed the CB right through the top of the CB cap - a nautical disaster. 
>> Fortunately Stan and Charles were able to hook me up with a new cap. I had to exchange internal parts ( the Ferrul block, the pivot pin and of course all the bolt holes had to be drilled, but it worked out fine. 
>> The blocks for the inside of the cap are Harken Micro-blocks I think #22 on two small pad eyes thru bolted into the top of the CB cap. 
>> Don?t ever launch with the CB pendant loose. 
>> The last photo is what might happen if you do. 
>> 
>> Here is their web link
>> https://www.pinbax.com/search/r1620
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
>> ric at stottarchitecture.com
>> O -631-283-1777
>> C- 516-965-3164
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 24, 2024, at 12:36 PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I'm wondering about using 3/16" line for the centerboard pennant.  I think quality line should be up to the task strength-wise.  Do you all think that the cam cleat will handle the smaller line?  Any downside to using 3/16?
>>> 
>>> Peter
>>> 
>>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 
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From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 24 22:36:38 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2024 22:36:38 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
Message-ID: <E1rzoyU-0078pd-1q@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Hi Ric,  
I had a chance to visit my boat today.  The blocks mounted to the back of my centerboard are Ronstan RF663 (see pic).  As I suspected these are sized for 3/16 line.  I'm not sure if they're original, but I suspect they are.

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
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From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 25 08:53:59 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 12:53:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard thumping
References: <545552223.3038210.1714049639971.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <545552223.3038210.1714049639971@mail.yahoo.com>

I figured I should start a new (related) thread.
I've only ever been able to partially deploy my centerboard, but when partially down it'll "thump" a bit as the boat rocks back and forth.? Since I have the centerboard cap off trying to figure out why the board won't fully deploy, I figured I'd take a look at the pivot slot.? Overall the slot looks okay, with just a bit of obvious wear and tear, mostly to the paint.? ?I noticed that when the board is moved so that the pivot pin is firm against one side of the slot, there's about 1/4 inch of space between the pin and the other side of the slot.? I'm wondering if this is about the proper tolerance or if there's too much of a gap?? Also, there were two lengths of vinyl tubing placed in the slot on port and starboard sides of the centerboard.? Are these supposed to be shock absorbers?? I guess they would also discourage the? board from moving up into the slot during a grounding.? Mine are hard as a rock and I suppose they should be replaced with something more flexible.? Any thoughts?
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From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Apr 25 09:14:58 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 13:14:58 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard thumping
In-Reply-To: <545552223.3038210.1714049639971@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <545552223.3038210.1714049639971.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <545552223.3038210.1714049639971@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB4288ADACAA83A2FE1403821580172@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Peter,

Yes, those pieces of tubing are meant to be flexible spacers or shock absorbers.  They are just clear PCV tubing available at any hardware store.  If yours are rock hard; then, it would be cheap insurance to replace them.

Regarding your issue wherein the centerboard won?t come all the way down, have you checked the top of the centerboard well forward of the pivot?  I?m thinking there might be something like a glob of mud, or a rock, or a stick or ? stuck up in there that?s limiting the range of motion of the centerboard.  Also, is your centerboard pennant long enough to allow full range of motion?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium
1978 Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 25, 2024, at 8:54?AM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
>
> ?I figured I should start a new (related) thread.
> I've only ever been able to partially deploy my centerboard, but when partially down it'll "thump" a bit as the boat rocks back and forth.  Since I have the centerboard cap off trying to figure out why the board won't fully deploy, I figured I'd take a look at the pivot slot.  Overall the slot looks okay, with just a bit of obvious wear and tear, mostly to the paint.   I noticed that when the board is moved so that the pivot pin is firm against one side of the slot, there's about 1/4 inch of space between the pin and the other side of the slot.  I'm wondering if this is about the proper tolerance or if there's too much of a gap?  Also, there were two lengths of vinyl tubing placed in the slot on port and starboard sides of the centerboard.  Are these supposed to be shock absorbers?  I guess they would also discourage the  board from moving up into the slot during a grounding.  Mine are hard as a rock and I suppose they should be replaced with something more flexible.  Any thoughts?
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From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Thu Apr 25 09:56:48 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 09:56:48 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard thumping
Message-ID: <E1rzzai-0048N7-0V@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Peter,

I've never taken my centerboard cap off, so I can't speak to the internal assembly, but I can say that my centerboard will also thump if it's down while the boat is at anchor and rocking a bit. It has done this since I bought it freshly recycled by General Boats, so I consider this normal behavior, and not cause for concern.

My centerboard will also sometimes thump when it's down and I'm under sail.  As I recall, Stan mentions in the owner's manual that if this is happening, it's a sign that the centerboard isn't doing anything except adding to drag, and it should be pulled up.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)

> On 2024-04-25, at 08:53:59 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:
>
> I figured I should start a new (related) thread.
> I've only ever been able to partially deploy my centerboard, but when partially 
> down it'll "thump" a bit as the boat rocks back and forth.&nbsp; Since I have 
> the centerboard cap off trying to figure out why the board won't fully deploy, I 
> figured I'd take a look at the pivot slot.&nbsp; Overall the slot looks okay, 
> with just a bit of obvious wear and tear, mostly to the paint.&nbsp; &nbsp;I 
> noticed that when the board is moved so that the pivot pin is firm against one 
> side of the slot, there's about 1/4 inch of space between the pin and the other 
> side of the slot.&nbsp; I'm wondering if this is about the proper tolerance or 
> if there's too much of a gap?&nbsp; Also, there were two lengths of vinyl tubing 
> placed in the slot on port and starboard sides of the centerboard.&nbsp; Are 
> these supposed to be shock absorbers?&nbsp; I guess they would also discourage 
> the&nbsp; board from moving up into the slot during a grounding.&nbsp; Mine are 
> hard as a rock and I suppose they should be replaced with something more 
> flexible.&nbsp; Any thoughts? 
> 



[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Thu Apr 25 10:19:01 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 10:19:01 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard thumping
Message-ID: <E1rzzwD-004XNR-0S@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Peter,

I've never removed by centerboard cap, so I can't comment on the internal construction, but I can say that my centerboard will also thump when it is down and the boat is at anchor and rocking a bit.  It's done this since I bought the boat newly recycled from General Boats, so I consider it to be normal behavior, and not something to worry about.

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)

> On 2024-04-25, at 08:53:59 EDT, peter beckerman wrote:
>
> I figured I should start a new (related) thread.
> I've only ever been able to partially deploy my centerboard, but when partially 
> down it'll "thump" a bit as the boat rocks back and forth.&nbsp; Since I have 
> the centerboard cap off trying to figure out why the board won't fully deploy, I 
> figured I'd take a look at the pivot slot.&nbsp; Overall the slot looks okay, 
> with just a bit of obvious wear and tear, mostly to the paint.&nbsp; &nbsp;I 
> noticed that when the board is moved so that the pivot pin is firm against one 
> side of the slot, there's about 1/4 inch of space between the pin and the other 
> side of the slot.&nbsp; I'm wondering if this is about the proper tolerance or 
> if there's too much of a gap?&nbsp; Also, there were two lengths of vinyl tubing 
> placed in the slot on port and starboard sides of the centerboard.&nbsp; Are 
> these supposed to be shock absorbers?&nbsp; I guess they would also discourage 
> the&nbsp; board from moving up into the slot during a grounding.&nbsp; Mine are 
> hard as a rock and I suppose they should be replaced with something more 
> flexible.&nbsp; Any thoughts? 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240425/88df51c9/attachment.jpg" 
> target="_blank">IMG_20240424_175344.jpg</a> 
> 
> <a 
> href="http://rhodes22.org/pipermail/rhodes22-list/attachments/20240425/88df51c9/attachment-0001.jpg" 
> target="_blank">IMG_20240424_180951.jpg</a> 
> 


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Thu Apr 25 10:24:15 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 10:24:15 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard won't drop/ control line size
In-Reply-To: <E1rzoyU-0078pd-1q@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1rzoyU-0078pd-1q@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <182AAC25-34C1-402D-AE0F-C92BA8E4C13F@stottarchitecture.com>

Thanks - I was not aware of any other source for these Ferrule blocks.
Pay attention Rhodes.  If you have  an old school CB, you will need these sooner or later. 
Ric 
Dadventure 

Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Apr 24, 2024, at 10:36 PM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> Hi Ric,  
> I had a chance to visit my boat today.  The blocks mounted to the back of my centerboard are Ronstan RF663 (see pic).  As I suspected these are sized for 3/16 line.  I'm not sure if they're original, but I suspect they are.
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
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From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 25 10:53:05 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 10:53:05 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard thumping
Message-ID: <E1s00TB-00538V-2m@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Thanks Peter, that's good to hear.  The boat is still new to me so I'm not entirely sure what's normal.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 25 12:51:40 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 12:51:40 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard thumping
Message-ID: <E1s02Jw-006jEC-1r@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

Thanks Roger 
   I think I have a bunch of that tubing in my toolbox, so replacing it should be pretty easy.
   I've gone through the whole centerboard trunk and I don't see anything that looks like it could be fouling the action of the centerboard except the pennant passing through the small blocks.  I'm guessing that the line has simply gotten cruddy and stiff over the years and that fresh lines will free up the action.  I'm going to hedge my bet and go with 3/16 line and maybe I'll get a lawnmower "T" handle if I find the smaller line hard to handle.  If it's too annoying I can always open it up again and install bigger blocks and line.  Right now I need to get a couple of other projects done and get my boat in the lake within a few weeks.
   Do you think that there's too much room for the pivot bolt in the slot or about right?


   Peter 

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From roger_pihlaja at msn.com  Thu Apr 25 20:47:47 2024
From: roger_pihlaja at msn.com (ROGER PIHLAJA)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 00:47:47 +0000
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard thumping
In-Reply-To: <E1s02Jw-006jEC-1r@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1s02Jw-006jEC-1r@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR10MB42884612612E518E662EECF980162@MN2PR10MB4288.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Peter,

It?s a little hard to tell; but, it?s certainly not way out of spec.

When your centerboard stops dropping, how much pennant is left to deploy?  I?m just wondering if, when a previous owner replaced the pennant, did they cut it too short?  Or, does the centerboard seem to run up against something solid with more pennant left to deploy?

Roger Pihlaja
S/V Dynamic Equilibrium 
1978 Sanford, MI

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 25, 2024, at 11:51?AM, peter beckerman via Rhodes22-list <rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks Roger
>   I think I have a bunch of that tubing in my toolbox, so replacing it should be pretty easy.
>   I've gone through the whole centerboard trunk and I don't see anything that looks like it could be fouling the action of the centerboard except the pennant passing through the small blocks.  I'm guessing that the line has simply gotten cruddy and stiff over the years and that fresh lines will free up the action.  I'm going to hedge my bet and go with 3/16 line and maybe I'll get a lawnmower "T" handle if I find the smaller line hard to handle.  If it's too annoying I can always open it up again and install bigger blocks and line.  Right now I need to get a couple of other projects done and get my boat in the lake within a few weeks.
>   Do you think that there's too much room for the pivot bolt in the slot or about right?
> 
> 
>   Peter
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]

From recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 25 22:35:41 2024
From: recorderguy2001 at yahoo.com (peter beckerman)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 22:35:41 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Centerboard thumping
Message-ID: <E1s0BR7-00Eee4-2b@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

There's lots of line left to deploy, only a foot or two of line goes into the trunk, and it's not a hard stop, it feels more like the board is gradually rubbing up against something or that the line is tangled and there's some stretch.
   I'm reasonably confident that the issue is a size mismatch between line and blocks, it just bothers me that no one else has had this problem, as I think the blocks are original and even if the line has been replaced since 1986, it's basically the same as general boats issued.  You'd think this would have come up before.... perhaps not.  At any rate I should know in a couple of weeks when I launch for the season.  
   Thanks for your and the groups insights.  Absolutely invaluable every time I start digging into the inner workings.

Peter

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Sun Apr 28 17:43:23 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2024 17:43:23 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Web Interface: Attachments
Message-ID: <E1s1CIt-008Igy-0T@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

When you send an email with an attachment to ?rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org?, the Mailman server will store a copy of the attachment locally, then strips the attachment from the email and inserts a link to the stored attachment in its place, and then sends the modified email off to all the list members, and to the archives. 

The new web interface, and its supporting background processes, don?t change any of this.  When archived messages are processed and stored in the rhodes22.net database, the links to attachments are found and included in the new format.  Though I like to think that the web interface displays the link in a more straightforward way.

See this recent example for instance: https://www.rhodes22.net/test-env/email-archives.html?post=109262

So nothing has really changed, unless the original attachment was sent through the Nabble interface.

For those not aware, Nabble was a website that provided a graphical interface to the Rhodes22 email list, somewhat like rhodes22.net.  The major difference is that Nabble was run totally independently, and we had no control over how it operated.  This really had little practical impact, except for the matter of attachments.

When an email with an attachment was sent to the list from Nabble, it was Nabble that kept the attachment and inserted a link in its place.  This still worked, people could click on the links and see the attachments, until Nabble lost years worth of attachments.  New, fresh links worked, but links embedded in messages stored in the archives no longer did.  

With this experience in mind, when I wrote the process that pulls messages from the Mailman archives, I decided that I would treat messages with attachments stored in Nabble differently.  Rather than just copy the link, I attempted to retrieve the attachment itself from the Nabble server.  For ?lost? attachments, this naturally failed, and I inserted a note indicating a ?broken link to nabble content?.   I cases where I was able to download the attachment, I kept the copy and inserted a link to the rhodes22.net copy in place of the Nabble copy.

My lack of trust in Nabble proved well founded.  In June of 2021 the website disappeared taking all or our attachments with it.  Fortunately, I had already saved what was savable, and there are now many hundred former Nabble attachments living on rhodes22.net. (It?s hard to get a count because the files are in a directory structure by year/month/day.)

You can see what may be the last message with attachments sent through the Nabble interface here: https://www.rhodes22.net/email-archives.html?post=105390

If you click through to the ?original archive post?, you can see that the links there point to Nabble.com, and don?t work.

The fact that I happened to write the extraction process shortly before Nabble disappeared from the face of the earth was just a bit good luck.  I should have bought a lotto ticket at the same time.

?Peter


[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From peter at sunnybeeches.com  Mon Apr 29 11:08:05 2024
From: peter at sunnybeeches.com (Peter Nyberg)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2024 11:08:05 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pipe Insulation in the Mast
Message-ID: <E1s1Sbt-0022pc-3D@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>

I'm doing some rewiring this spring, including running a 3-conductor wire up the mast so that I can have both an anchor light and a steaming light.  I'd like to keep the new wire from slapping inside the mast.  The last time I ran wires up the mast, I attached many long zip-ties in an attempt to avoid slapping.  That did not work, so this time I'm going to try the pipe insulation approach.

This is mentioned many times in the archives, but still details are kind of sparse. I'd appreciate tips, tricks, or things to avoid from anyone who's done this.

Thanks,

Peter Nyberg
Coventry, CT
s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)

[ Sent From rhodes22.net ]


From ric at stottarchitecture.com  Mon Apr 29 11:19:28 2024
From: ric at stottarchitecture.com (Ric Stott)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2024 11:19:28 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pipe Insulation in the Mast
In-Reply-To: <E1s1Sbt-0022pc-3D@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
References: <E1s1Sbt-0022pc-3D@mi3-ss123.a2hosting.com>
Message-ID: <BDBDD739-FC79-49B9-B671-3E684B540E57@stottarchitecture.com>

Hey Peter
I have 4 lights on the mast. Anchor light, Windex light (which I love) a steaming light and a deck down light (part of the steaming light unit) 
I currently have 4  pairs #18 wires running up the mast with 4 2-pin connectors at the deck, which I never seem to get all to work at the same time. 
I?m sure there is abetter way to power these 4 items, which are now all L.E.D.s. 
I?m looking for a better deck connection solution. 
Also - I used zip ties when I installed all four wires about 5 years ago.
The zip ties worked well for a couple of years, but now the wires slap around like I never did anything to prevent it. 
Curious to know consensus on that. 
Ric 
Dadventure 


Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP 
ric at stottarchitecture.com
O -631-283-1777
C- 516-965-3164



> On Apr 29, 2024, at 11:08 AM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
> 
> I'm doing some rewiring this spring, including running a 3-conductor wire up the mast so that I can have both an anchor light and a steaming light.  I'd like to keep the new wire from slapping inside the mast.  The last time I ran wires up the mast, I attached many long zip-ties in an attempt to avoid slapping.  That did not work, so this time I'm going to try the pipe insulation approach.
> 
> This is mentioned many times in the archives, but still details are kind of sparse. I'd appreciate tips, tricks, or things to avoid from anyone who's done this.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Peter Nyberg
> Coventry, CT
> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> 
> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> 


From tvpolise at aol.com  Mon Apr 29 11:35:00 2024
From: tvpolise at aol.com (THOMAS POLISE)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2024 11:35:00 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pipe Insulation in the Mast
In-Reply-To: <BDBDD739-FC79-49B9-B671-3E684B540E57@stottarchitecture.com>
References: <BDBDD739-FC79-49B9-B671-3E684B540E57@stottarchitecture.com>
Message-ID: <3BFCD013-71DF-4626-95D6-2058C210D025@aol.com>

I?m on my 3rd season with zip ties, 12? OC and they seem to be working.  

> On Apr 29, 2024, at 11:19?AM, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Hey Peter
> I have 4 lights on the mast. Anchor light, Windex light (which I love) a steaming light and a deck down light (part of the steaming light unit)
> I currently have 4  pairs #18 wires running up the mast with 4 2-pin connectors at the deck, which I never seem to get all to work at the same time.
> I?m sure there is abetter way to power these 4 items, which are now all L.E.D.s.
> I?m looking for a better deck connection solution.
> Also - I used zip ties when I installed all four wires about 5 years ago.
> The zip ties worked well for a couple of years, but now the wires slap around like I never did anything to prevent it.
> Curious to know consensus on that.
> Ric
> Dadventure
> 
> 
> Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> ric at stottarchitecture.com
> O -631-283-1777
> C- 516-965-3164
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 29, 2024, at 11:08 AM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I'm doing some rewiring this spring, including running a 3-conductor wire up the mast so that I can have both an anchor light and a steaming light.  I'd like to keep the new wire from slapping inside the mast.  The last time I ran wires up the mast, I attached many long zip-ties in an attempt to avoid slapping.  That did not work, so this time I'm going to try the pipe insulation approach.
>> 
>> This is mentioned many times in the archives, but still details are kind of sparse. I'd appreciate tips, tricks, or things to avoid from anyone who's done this.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Peter Nyberg
>> Coventry, CT
>> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
>> 
>> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
>> 
> 


From chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com  Mon Apr 29 17:19:20 2024
From: chrisgeankoplis at gmail.com (Chris Geankoplis)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2024 17:19:20 -0400
Subject: [Rhodes22-list] Pipe Insulation in the Mast
In-Reply-To: <3BFCD013-71DF-4626-95D6-2058C210D025@aol.com>
References: <BDBDD739-FC79-49B9-B671-3E684B540E57@stottarchitecture.com>
 <3BFCD013-71DF-4626-95D6-2058C210D025@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CADNTwiW2z_C3VPXas9-GXjfvpoitQBtUhgREDbs_-yMkYvdV_w@mail.gmail.com>

I tried something that worked for  many years.  I ran the wires that had
been wiped down with di-electric grease. I then drilled a few holes about
6-8 feet apart on the front of the mast. The diameter of the holes was a
bit larger than the diameter of the nozzle for a can of expanding foam. I
then injected each hole with enough to fill the void immediately below the
hole. This secured the wires and after doing this to each hole, the wires
were secure and I created several water tight compartments in case the
impossible happens and the boat capsized ( it happened to me, that?s
another story). After 10 years there didn?t seem to be a down side. Adding
a wire could be a bit problematic, but doable. I replaced one wire and with
the grease I just spliced a messenger line on and pulled the bad wire out
and then the new one back in. So, for me it was quick, easy and cheap. One
guy?s idea.
Chris Geankoplis
Xenos.

On Mon, Apr 29, 2024 at 11:35?AM THOMAS POLISE via Rhodes22-list <
rhodes22-list at rhodes22.org> wrote:

> I?m on my 3rd season with zip ties, 12? OC and they seem to be working.
>
> > On Apr 29, 2024, at 11:19?AM, Ric Stott <ric at stottarchitecture.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?Hey Peter
> > I have 4 lights on the mast. Anchor light, Windex light (which I love) a
> steaming light and a deck down light (part of the steaming light unit)
> > I currently have 4  pairs #18 wires running up the mast with 4 2-pin
> connectors at the deck, which I never seem to get all to work at the same
> time.
> > I?m sure there is abetter way to power these 4 items, which are now all
> L.E.D.s.
> > I?m looking for a better deck connection solution.
> > Also - I used zip ties when I installed all four wires about 5 years ago.
> > The zip ties worked well for a couple of years, but now the wires slap
> around like I never did anything to prevent it.
> > Curious to know consensus on that.
> > Ric
> > Dadventure
> >
> >
> > Richard F. Stott, AIA, LEED AP
> > ric at stottarchitecture.com
> > O -631-283-1777
> > C- 516-965-3164
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Apr 29, 2024, at 11:08 AM, Peter Nyberg <peter at sunnybeeches.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I'm doing some rewiring this spring, including running a 3-conductor
> wire up the mast so that I can have both an anchor light and a steaming
> light.  I'd like to keep the new wire from slapping inside the mast.  The
> last time I ran wires up the mast, I attached many long zip-ties in an
> attempt to avoid slapping.  That did not work, so this time I'm going to
> try the pipe insulation approach.
> >>
> >> This is mentioned many times in the archives, but still details are
> kind of sparse. I'd appreciate tips, tricks, or things to avoid from anyone
> who's done this.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Peter Nyberg
> >> Coventry, CT
> >> s/v Silverheels (1988/2016)
> >>
> >> [ Sent From rhodes22.net ]
> >>
> >
>
>